THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 
OF  CALIFORNIA 


PRESENTED  BY 

PROF.  CHARLES  A.  KOFOID  AND 
MRS.  PRUDENCE  W.  KOFOID 


DEDHAM  PUBLIC  LIBRARY. 


ABBREVIATED  REGULATIONS. 

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<>i  M-inlinj:  f«>r  th«-  book. 


THE 

AMERICAN   GARDENER'S 

CALENDAR ; 

ADAPTED 

TO  THE  CLIMATES  AND  SEASONS 

OF    THE 

UNITED  STATES. 

coy  TAIN isc 

A    COMPLETE    ACCOUNT  OF    ALL    THE    WORK    NECESSARY    TO    BE 
DONE    IN    TI1K 

KITCHEN-GARDEN,  S  PLEASURE-GROUND, 

FRUIT-GARDEN,  S  FLOWER-GARDEN, 

ORCHARD,  GREEN-HOUSE, 

VINEYARD,  ?  HOT-HOUSE,  and 

NURSERY,  S  FORCING  FRAMES, 

FOR    EVERY    MOWTH    IX    THE    YEAR; 

ll'ITH  AMPLE  PRACTICAL  DIRECTIONS 
FOR  PERFORMING  THE  SAME. 

ALSO, 

General  as  well  as  minute  instructions,  for  laying  out,  or  erecting,  each  and 
every  of  the  above  departments,  according  to  modern  taste  and  the  most 
approved  plans ;  the  ORNAMENTAL  PLANTING  or  PLEASURE-CROINDS, 
in  the  ancient  and  modern  stile;  the  cultivation  of  THORN-QUICKS  and 
other  plants  suitable  for  LIVE  HEDGES,  with  the  best  methods  of  making 
them,  &c. 

TO    WHICH    ARE    ANNEXED, 

Extensive  CATALOGUES  of  the  diflerent  kinds  of  plants,  which  may  be  cul- 
tivated either  for  use  or  ornament  in  the  several  departments,  or  in  rural 
economy  ;  divided  into  eighteen  separate  alphabetical  classes,  according 
In  their  habits,  duration,  and  modes  of  culture  ;  uith  explanatory  intro- 
ductions, marginal <marks,  and  their  true  Linntan  or  Botanical,  as  well  as 
English  names  ;  together  with  a  copious  Index  to  the  body  of  the  work. 


BY  BERNARD  WMAHON, 

NURSERY,   SEEDSMAN,   AND    FLORIST. 

PHILADELPHIA: 

PRINTED  BY  B.  GRAVES,  NO.  40,   NORTH    FOURTH-STREET, 
FOR   THE    AUTHOR. 

1  800. 


DISTRICT  OF  PENNSYLVANIA,  T»  "WIT: 

. 

BF  it  remembered,   That  on  the  twenty  eighth  Day  of  January, 
in  the  thirtieth   year  of  the  Independence   of  the   United  States 
of  America,  A.  D.  1806.     Bernard  M'.V.ahon,  of  the  said  District, 
hath  deposited  in  this  Office,  the  Title  of  a  Book  the  Right  whereof 
he  claims  as  Author,  in  the  words  follwing,  to  wit : 
«'  The  American  Gardener's  Calendar ;  adapted  to  the  Climates 
u  and    seasons  of  the    United   States.      Containing  a  complete 
"  account  of  all  the  work  necessary  to  be  clone  in  the  Kitchen- 
«  Garden,  Fruit-Garden,  Orchard,  Vineyard    Nursery,  Pleasure 
u  Ground,  Flower-Garden,  Green-House,  Hot-house,  and  Forcing 
"  Frames,   for  every  month  in  the  year;  with  ample  practical 
«  directions  for  performing  the  same.     Also,  general  as  well  as 
«  minute  instructions,  for  laying  out,  or  erecting,  each  and  every 
«  of  the  above  departments,  according  to  modern  taste  and  the 
"  most  approved  phms;  the  Ornamental  planting  of  Pleasure 
«  Grounds,  in  the  ancient  and  modern  stile,  the  cultivation  of 
«<  Thorn  Quicks  and  other  plants  suitable  for  LiverHedges,  with 
"  the  best  methods  of  making  them,  &c.     To  which  are  annexed 
"  extensive  Catalogues  of  the  different  kinds  of  plants,  which  may 
«  be  cultivated  either  for  use  or  ornament  in  the  several  depart- 
u  ments,  or  in  rural  economy,  divided  into  eighteen   separate 
«  Alphabetical  classes,  according  to  their  habits,  duration,  and 
<*  modes  of  culture,  with    explanatory   introductions,  marginal 
"  marks,  and  their  true  Linnxan  or  Botanical,  as  well  as  English 
**  names  ;  together   with  a  copious    Index  to  the  body  of  the 
w  work.  Ky  Bernard  M'Mahon,  Nursery,  Seedsman,  and  Florist." 
In  Conformity  to  the  Act  of  the  Congress  of  the  United  States, 
intituled,   "  An  Act  for  the   Encouragement  of  Learning,  by  se- 
curing the    Copies  of  Maps,   Charts,  and  Books,  to  the  Authors 
and  Proprietors  of  such  Copies  during  the  times  therein  men- 
tioned"    And  also  to  the  Act,  entitled  "  An  act  supplementary 
to  an  Act  entitled,  "  An  Act  for  the  encouragement  of  Learning, 
by  securing  the  Copies  of  Maps,  Charts,  and  Books,  to  the  Authors 
and  Proprietors  of  such  Copies  during  the  Times  therein  mention- 
ed," and  extending  the  Benefits  thereof  to  the  Arts  of  designing, 
engraving,  and  etching  historical  and  other  Prints." 
(L.  S.)  D.  CALDWELL, 

Clerk  of  the  district  of  Pennsylvania. 


PREFACE. 


THE  general  utility  of  HORTICULTURE,  or  the  Art  of  improv- 
ing every  kind  of  soil  ;   of  producing  a  plentiful  supply  of  whole- 
some vegetables  atui  fruits,  so  ,  y  to  health  in  all  countries, 
especially  in  warm  climates ;  of  cultivating  the  various  plants  de- 
signed by  IN  UNITE  GOODNESS,  to  minister  to  the  comforts  of  ani- 
mal life,  by  correcting  the  divers  maladies  to  which  it  is  subject  by 
nature,  and  still  more  so,  in  the  human  race,  by  intemperance ;  of 
raising  many  articles  of  luxury  and  commerce,  as  well  as  materials 
for  ornamenting  the  whole  face  of  the  country  ;   is  too  obvious,  to 
render  any   arguments  necessary  in  favour  of  an  attempt  to  facili- 
tate the  general  acquisition  of  that  useful  branch  of  knowledge;  but 
more  especially,  in  a  country   which  has  not  yet  made  that  rapid 
progress  in  Gardening,  ornamental  planting,  and  fanciful  rural  de- 
signs, which  might  naturally  be  expected  from  an  intelligent,  happy 
and  independent  people,  possessed  so  universally  of  landed  proper- 
ty, unoppressed  by  taxation  or  tithes,  and  blest  with  consequent 
comfort  and  affluence. 

The  neglect  in  these  respects  is,  no  doubt,  to  be  attributed  to  vari- 
uos  causes,  an; ong  the  most  prominent  of  which,  is  the  necessity  of 
having  reference  for  information  on  those  subjects,  to  works  pub- 
lished in  foreign  countries,  and  adapted  to  climates,  by  no  means 
according  with  ours,  either  in  the  temperature  or  course  of  the 
->ns,  and  in  numerous  instances,  differing  materially  iu  modes  of 
culture, /rora  those  rendered  necessary  here,  by  the  peculiarities  of 
our  climates,  soils  and  situations.  And  however  excellent  and  use- 
ful these  works  are  in  the  regions  to  which  they  are  adapted,  they 
tend  to  mislead  and  disappoint  the  young  American  Horticulturist, 
instead  of  affording  him  that  correct,  judicious  and  suitable  instruc- 
tion, the  happy  result  of  which  would  give  impulse  to  his  perse- 
verance. 

To  obviate  this  necessity,  as  much  as  in  my  power,  and  to 
contribute  my  mite  to  the  welfare  of  my  fellow-citizens,  and  to 
the  general  improvement  of  the  country,  I  have  undertaken  this 
work,  and  arranged  the  matter  according  to  the  seasons  of  the  year ; 
that  the  reader  may  have  an  easy  reference  to  the  particular  busi- 


iv  PREFACE. 

ness  to  be  performed  in  every  month.  By  this  means  the  subject 
becomes  a  daily  amusement  and  study,  applicable  at  the  moment, 
and  consequently  leaving  a  lasting  impression  on  the  memory  ; 
which  if  attended  to  for  a  few  years,  may  make  any  person  who 
has  a  taste  for  admiring  and  enjoying  the  magnificence,  beauties 
and  bounties  of  nature,  in  its  vegetable  productions,  a  complete 
Master  of  the  Art,  and  if  he  pleases,  his  own  Gardener. 

In  writing  this  treatise,  I  have  had  recourse  to  the  best  publica- 
tions, American,  English,  French  and  Latin,  lest  any  useful  sug- 
gestions, or  modern  improvements  in  the  art,  shoulde  scape  my  no- 
tice or  recollection  ;  still  keeping  in  view,  not  only  the  difference  of 
climate,  season,  and  the  necessary  modes  of  culture  in  foreign  coun- 
tries, but  also,  in  the  extensive  region  of  which  the  United  States 
are  composed.  It  is,  however,  probable,  notwithstanding  all  my 
assiduity  and  care,  in  collecting  as  much  information  as  possi- 
ble, with  respect  to  the  most  firofier  seasons  for  sowing  particular 
kinds  of  seeds,  &c.  in  the  remote  parts  of  the  Union,  that  I  have 
fallen  into  some  mistakes  ;  for  these,  as  well  as  typographical  er- 
rors, to  which  a  work  of  this  kind  is  unavoidably  subject,  I  solicit 
the  reader's  excuse ;  and  shall  consider  myself  under  serious  obli- 
gations to  those,  whose  personal  friendship,  or  patriotism,  shall  in- 
duce them  to  inform  me  of  any  horticultural  errors  which  I  may 
have  committed,  or  improvements  that  may  be  made ;  in  order 
that  the  former  be  corrected,  and  the  latter,  if  justified  by  experi- 
ence, published  in  some  future  work,  or  edition  of  this. 

The  culture  and  management  of  Grape-Vines,  and  all  other 
kinds  of  fruit-trees,  which  can  be  cultivated  with  us  Jo  advantage, 
or  even  to  indulge  curiosity  ;  the  raising  and  planting  of  Thorn- 
quicks  and  other  plants  suitable  for  LIVE-HEDGES,  the  cultivation 
of  Liquorice,  Rhubarb,  Dyer's  Madder,  Weld  or  Dyer's  Weed, 
Fuller's  Teasel,  Sea  Kale  (Crambe  maritima).  Cork-tree,  Manna 
Ash,  Tanner's  Sumack  (Rhus  CoriariaJ,  Paper  Mulberry,  Mul- 
berry-trees for  feeding  Silk-worms  (and  care  of  the  insects,)  with 
every  other  plant,  not  already  common,  which  appeared  to  me  of 
sufficient  importance,  either  in  a  commercial,  manufacturing,  or 
ornamental  point  of  view,  or  as  affording  any  of  the  luxuries  or  ne- 
cessaries of  life,  have  been  treated  of  with  due  attention :  and  in 
order  to  accommodate  the  Agriculturist,  I  have  given  a  classical  ca- 
talogue of  the  most  important  and  valuable  grasses,  and  other  plants, 
used  in  rural  economy  ;  and  likewise  pointed  out  the  particular 
kind  of  soil,  in  which,  each  plant  cultivated  as  a  grass,  or  exclusive- 
ly on  account  of  its  foliage,  has  been  found,  upon  repeated  trials,  to 
succeed  best. 


PREFACE.  v 

To  the  work  I  also  have  annexed,  a  general  catalogue,  containing 
the  Latin  and  English  names  of  near  three  thousand  seven  hundred 
species  and  varieties,  of  the  most  valuable  and  curious  plants  hither- 
to discovered ;  and  divided  these  into  eighteen  separate  classes,  ac- 
cording to  their  habits,  duration,  and  necessary  modes  of  culture, 
each  alphabetically  arranged  ;  by  which  plan,  a  knowledge  of  their 
general  treatment,  may  at  once  be  obtained,  and  of  each  particular 
kind,  greatly  facilitated.  This  I  deemed  necessary  to  the  comple- 
tion of  the  work,  as  it  was  impossible  to  notice  each  kind  separately, 
in  the  limits  originally  prescribed  thereto,  without  abridging  the 
necessary  practical  directions;  a  knowledge  of  which,  however, 
when  once  acquired,  will  fully  enable  the  proficient,  with  the  assist- 
ance of  the  classification  alluded  to,  to  cultivate  any  plant  therein 
mentioned,  to  as  much  advantage  as  the  nature  of  the  climate,  soil 
and  situation  will  admit  of. 

prom  an  experience  which  I  have  had,  of  near  thirty  years,  in 
PRACTICAL  c  ARDENING,  on  u  general  and  extensive  scale;  thepar- 
ticular  pains  which  I  have  taken,  not  only  to  designate  the  neces- 
sary work  of  every  month,  but  also  the  btst  methods  of  performing 
it;  the  avoiding  of  all  unnecessary  repetitions,  so  frequent  in  works 
of  the  kind,  in  order  to  render  it  as  full  of  important  matter  as  pot* 
siblc  ;  the  assiduous  endeavours  to  make  it  useful  in  every  state  of 
the  Union,  and  to  induce  an  association  of  the  science  of  Botany  with 
practical  horticulture,  without  which  the  latter  can  never  be  so  ad- 
vantageously conducted  ;  it  is  hoped,  that  this  will  be  found  to  be 
the  most  useful  and  valuable  GARDENER'S  CALENDAR  hitherto  pub- 
lished in  any  country,  but  more  particularly  so,  to  the  citizens  of 
the  United  States,  for  whose  use  it  has  been  written,  and  to  whom 
it  is  respectfully  inscribed  by  the  Author. 

BERNARD  M'MAHON. 

Philadelphia,  February  1,  1806. 


ADVERTISEMENT. 


THE  author  of  this  work  takes  the  liberty  of  informing  his 
friends  and  the  public,  that  he  is  constantly  supplied,  at  his  Seed 
Warehouse  in  Philadelphia,  with  a  general  assortment  of  Garden- 
SeedS)  suitable  for  cultivation,  in  the  United  States,  and  in  the  West 
Indies;  Grass  seeds  of  every  important  and  valuable  kind  ;  an  im- 
mense variety  of  Tree,  Shrub  and  Flower  seeds  and  roots,  procured 
from  the  various  parts  of  the  world,  with  which  the  enterprize  of 
American  commerce  has  any  connection,  as  well  as  from  the  dif- 
ferent States  and  Territories  of  the  Union;  Spades,  Shovels,  Rakes, 
Hoes,  Reels,  Lines,  Trowels,  Edging-irons,  Garden-shears,  Water- 
ing-pots, Pruning,  Budding  and  Grafting  Knives,  &c.  Bulb-glasses, 
Bass-mats,  Glass  suitable  for  hot-bed  lights  and  other  forcing  de- 
partments ;  seeds  for  bird-feeding  of  every  kind,  split  and  whole 
peas  for  boiling,  best  flour  of  mustard,  and  every  other  article 
appertaining  to  his  line  of  business ;  all  of  which  he  disposes  of, 
wholesale  and  retail,  on  the  most  moderate  terms. 

The  more  effectually  to  accommodate  his  customers,  he  has  con- 
nected with  the  Seed  Trade,  a  Botanical,  Agricultural  and  Horti- 
cultural Book  Store,  where  a  great  variety  of  the  most  valuable  publi- 
cations on  these  subjects,  especially  the  modern  works  of  merit,  may 
now  be  had.  This,  with  his  other  business,  he  is  determined  to 
extend  to  the  utmost  of  his  ability,  and  he  flatters  himself,  that  by 
his  industry,  perseverance  and  punctuality,  with  the  patronage 
of  a  generous  public,  he  will  be  enabled  to  render  this  estab- 
lishment, not  only  useful  to  himself,  but  of  considerable  advantage 
to  the  community  at  large. 


THE 

AMERICAN    GARDENER'S 
CALENDAR. 


JANUARY. 


WORK    TO    BE    DONE    IN    THE    KITC::  .  LX. 

Prcfiarationa  for  Larij  Cro/it. 

I X  such  parts  of  the-  Union,  \\  here  the  ground  is  not  at  this  time 
hound  up  with  frost,  continue  to  dig  the  waste  quarters  of  your 
kitchen  g.mlen,  first  giving  them  such  manure  as  they  require  ;  lay- 
ing them  in  high  sloping  ridges,  to  sweeten  and  be  improved  by  the 
frost,  Sec.  more  especially  if  the  soil  be  of  a  stiff  nature  :  by  which 
method,  its  adhesion  is  destroyed)  the  pores  are  opened  for  the  ad- 
mission of  air,  frost,  rain  and  dews,  all  of  which  abounding  with 
nitrous  salts,  contribute,  in  a  high  degree,  towards  its  melioration 
and  fertility  ;  and  besides  a  great  quantity  of  ground  thus  prepare.  1, 
can  be  soon  leveled  in  the  spring  for  sowing  or  planting  ;  which,  if 
neglected,  would  require  much  time  to  dig  in  a  proper  manner,  and 
that  at  a  period,  when  the  throng  of  business  requires  every  advan- 
tage of  previous  preparation. 

When  the  ground  at  this  time  is  frozen  so  hard  as  not  to  be  dug, 
which  is  generally  the  case  in  the  middle  and  eastern  states,  you 
may  carry  manure  into  the  different  quarters  and  spread  it,  repair 
fences,  rub  out  and  clean  your  seeds,  prepare  shreds,  nails  and  twigs, 
for  the  wall  and  espalier  trees,  which  are  to  be  pruned  in  this  and 
the  next  month  ;  get  all  the  garden-tools  in  repair,  and  pure: 
such  as  are  wanting ;  provide  from  the  woods  a  sufficient  quantity 
of  pea-rods,  and  poles  for  your  Lama  and  other  running  beans ; 
dress  and  point  them,  so  as  to  be  ready  for  use  when  wanted. 

Here  it  may  be  well  to  remark,  that  many  people  who  neglect  to 
provide  themselves  with  pea-rods  at  this  season,  when  it  can  be  so 
conveniently  done,  are  necessitated,  when  the  hurry  of  busin 
takvs  them  in  spring,  to   sow  their  peas  and  let  them  trail  on  the 


2  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN,  [JAN. 

ground  ;  in  which  situation  they  will  never  produce,  especially  the 
tall  growing  kinds,  one  third  as  many  as  if  they  were  properly 
rodded. 

The  various  kinds  of  Early-Hotspur  Peas,  will  require  rods  from 
four  to  five  feet  high,  the  Marrowfat,  Glory  of  England,  White  and 
Green  Rouncival,  Spanish  Morotto,  and  other  tall  growing  kinds  ; 
will  require  them  to  be  from  six  to  seven  feet  high,  exclusive  of 
the  part  to  be  inserted  in  the  earth  ;  they  ought  to  be  formed  or 
dressed  fan  fashion,  the  lower  ends  pointed,  for  the  ease  of  pushing 
them  into  the  earth,  and  laid  by,  either  under  some  shed,  or  in  any 
convenient  place  till  wanted  ;  one  set  of  rods,  will  with  care  last  for 
three  years.  The  same  kind  of  rods,  that  the  tall  growing  peas  re- 
quire, will  answer  for  the  generality  of  running  Kidney-Beans  ;  the 
Lima-Beans  require  strong  poles  from  eight  to  nine  feet  high. 

If  in  this,  and  the  next  month,  you  neglect  forwarding  every  thing 
that  can  possibly  be  done,  in  and  for  the  garden,  you  will  materially 
find  the  loss  of  such  inattention,  when  the  hurry  and  pressure  of 
spring  business  overtake  you.  Every  active  and  well  inclined 
gardener  will  find  abundant  employment  in  the  various  departments 
of  the  garden  at  this  season,  and  need  not  be  idle,  if  disposed  to  be 
industrious,  or  to  serve  either  himself  or  his  employer. 

Framing. 

Many  will  think  that  the  instructions  hereafter  given,  for  the 
raising  of  early  Cucumbers  and  Melons,  in  frames,  are  too  diffuse  j 
especially  in  a  country  which  abounds  in  these  kinds  of  fruit,  pro- 
duced in  such  quantities,  in  summer  and  autumn,  without  artificial 
heat,  or  very  much  trouble. 

The  remark  may  be  just,  but  the  principal  motive  for  giving  these 
lengthy  instructions,  is  to  exercise  the  young  Gardener,  in  the  art 
of  managing  Garden-Frames  in  general ;  an  art  absolutely  essen- 
tial to  every  good  Gardener,  and  which  cannot  be  better  exemplified 
than  in  the  raising  of  early  Cucumbers  and  Melons.  And  besides 
these  fruit  coming  into  use  at  an  early  season,  will  be  much  valued 
and  esteemed. 

As  several  other  kinds  of  Kitchen-Garden  vegetables  are  desirable 
at  an  early  season,  such  as  cresses,  rape,  lettuce,  mustard,  radishes, 
&c.  to  cut  while  young ;  asparagus,  radishes,  peas,  kidney  beans, 
&c.  to  be  forwarded  to  early  perfection  ;  cauliflower  and  cabbage 
plants,  to  succeed  those  sown  in  September,  and  to  produce  a  prin- 
cipal crop  for  early  summer  use  ;  you  should  now  provide  the  ne- 
cessary supplies  of  hot  stable  dung,  rich  earth,  and  other  requisites 
proper  for  their  cultivation  in  hot  beds,  as  explained  for  each,  under 
its  respective  head. 

Hot -bed-Frames  and  Lights. 

If  not  already  provided  with  hot-bed-frames  and  lights,  you  may 
get  them  made  agreeably  to  the  following  instructions.  Large 
frames  ought  to  be  made  of  inch  and  half,  or  rather  two  inch  plank. 


JAN.]  THi:  KITC  HEN  CARD 

of  the  best  yellow  pine,  nine  feel  two  inches  long,  four  feet  ten  inches 
wide,  as  high  again  in  the  back  as  in  front,  to  give  the  top  a  due 
slope  to  the  sun  and  a  proper  der levity  lieu 

covered  with  glass  lights,  to  move  off  and  on  occasionally  ;  every 
joint  ought  to  be  tongued,  the  better  to  prevent  the  admission  of 
cold  air  into,  or  emission  of  warm  air  out  of  the  bed,  but  in  such 
manner  as  the  gardener  may  think  proper.  The  back  and  front 
are  to  be  nailed  to  corner  posts,  so  as  to  admit  the  ends  to  fit  in 
neatly,  which  ends  are  to  be  made  fast  to  the  posts  by  iron  bolts 
keyed  in  the  inside,  fur  the  greater  facility  of  taking  the  frame 
asunder  \vlu-n  n-ressary  ;  each  end  must  be  made  one  inch  and  a 
half  higher  than  the  back  and  front,  so  as  that  one  half  its  thickness 
may  be  grooved  out  on  the  inside,  for  the  sash  to  rest  and  slide  on, 
ji-id  the  other  half  left  for  its  support  on  the  outside  ;  when  finished 
give  it  two  or  three  good  coats  of  paint  before  you  use  it,  and  with 
a  little  care  and  an  annual  painting,  it  may  last  you  twenty  years. 

These  frames  will  take  three  lights  of  three  feet  wide  each,  each 
light  containing  live  rows  of  glass  panes,  six  inches  by  four,  over- 
lapping one    another   about   half    an    inch,    which  of   all   other 
i  is  the  n  Arable,  on  account  of  their  cheapness  in  the 

fn M  place,  the  closeness  of  their  lap,  their  general  strength  and 
trifling  expencc  of  repairs ;  however,  each  person  will  suit  his  own 
convenience  as  to  the  dimensions  of  glass.  Where  the  sashes  when 
laid  on  the  frame  meet,  a  piece  of  pine  about  three  and  a  half  inches 
1  and  near  two  thick,  should  run  from  back  to  front  morticed 
into  each,  for  their  support,  and  for  them  to  slide  on  ;  in  the  centre 
of  which,  as  well  as  in  the  ends  of  the  frame,  it  will  be  well  to  make 
a  groove,  five-eighths  of  an  inch  wide  and  near  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
deep,  rounded  at  bottom  to  receive  and  carry  off  any  wet  which  may 
down  betv.tvn  the  sashes. 

15ut  with  respect  to  particular  dimensions  of  frames,  they  are  dif- 
( ording  to  the  plants  they  are  intended  to  protect,  but  ge- 
nerally from  nine  to  twelve  feet  long,  from  four  feet  eight  inches  to 
five  feet  wide,  from  eighteen  inches  to  three  feet  six  inches  high  in 
the  back,  i  id  from  nin-  to  eighteen  inches  in  front,  being  for  the 
most  part  twice  as  high  in  the  back  as  in  front,  if  not  more. 

The  common  kitchen  garden  frames  may  be  of  three  different 
sizes,  that  is,  for  one,  two  and  three  lights,  the  latter  of  which  how- 
ever, are  the  most  material,  and  which  are  employed  for  general 
use  :  but  it  is  necessary  also  to  have  one  and  two  light  frames,  the 
former  as  seedling  frames,  and  the  latter  as  succession  or  niir 
frames,  to  forward  the  young  plants  to  a  due  size  for  the  three-light 
frames,  in  which  they  are  to  fruit. 

Karly  Cucumber*  and  Melon*. 

As  it  is  generally  the  ambition  of  most  gardeners  to  excel  each 
other  in  the  production  of  early  cucumbers,  Sic.  all  necessary  pre- 
parations should  be  made  this  month  for  that  purpose,  by  preparing 
dung  for  hot-beds,  in  which  to  raise  the  plants  ;  for  they,  being  of  a 
tender  quality,  require  the  aid  of  artificial  heat  under  shelter  of 


4  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [JAN. 

frames  and  glasses,  until  the  middle  or  latter  end  of  May,  especially 
in  the  middle  and  eastern  stales. 

But  by  the  aid  of  hot-beds,  defended  with  frames  and  glasses,  we 
obtain  early  cucumbers,  in  young  green  fruit,  fit  to  cut  or  gather  in 
February,  March  and  April,  &c.  and  ripe  melons  in  May  and  June. 

The  proper  sorts  of  cucumbers  for  the  early  crops  are  the  early 
short  prickly,  and  long  green  prickly  ;  of  which  the  first  sort  comes 
earliest ;  but  the  latter  is  considerably  the  finest  fruit,  and  greatly 
preferable  for  general  culture. 

And  if  early  melons  are  also  required,  there  are  several  varieties 
of  the  fruit :  the  Cantaleupe  is  one  of  the  best  for  its  handsome 
growth,  good  size,  and  superior  flavour  ;  and  is  in  much  estimation. 

The  true  Cantalcujie  or  Armenian  ivarted  Melon,  is  very  scarce  in 
the  United  States ;  its  fruit  is  large,  roundish  and  deeply  ribbed,  a 
little  compressed  a.t  both  ends,  the  surface  full  of  ivarted  Jirotuberan- 
cc-Sy  like  some  species  of  squash,  the  flesh  reddish,  firm,  and  of  a 
most  delicious  rich  flavour  ;  of  which  there  are  several  varieties,  dif- 
fering principally  in  colour,  and  commonly  called  black  rock,  gol- 
den rock,  Sec. 

This  variety  of  melon  derives  the  term  Cantaleupe,  from  a  place 
of  that  name  near  Rome,  where  it  was  first  cultivated  in  Europe.... 
brought  thence  from  Armenia  a  country  of  Asia,  in  which  is  situat- 
ed the  famous  Mount  Ararat. 

But  it  may  also  be  proper  to  raise  some  of  the  others  for  variety  ; 
the  Romana  is  a  great  bearer,  comes  early,  but  the  fruit  much  smaller 
though  well  flavoured  ;  the  Polignac,  Nutmeg  and  Minorca  are  also 
fine  melons  ;  but  it  may  also  be  eligible  to  raise  two,  three,  or  more 
of  the  best  approved  different  sorts. 

Observe,  that  in  procuring  these  seeds  for  immediate  sowing,  both 
of  cucumbers  and  melons,  it  is  adviseable  to  have  those  of  two,  three 
or  four  years  old,  if  possible,  as  the  plants  will  generally  show  fruit 
sooner,  as  well  as  prove  more  fruitful  than  those  of  new  seeds,  which 
are  apt  to  run  vigorously  to  vine,  often  advancing  in  considerable 
length  before  they  show  a  single  fruit ;  but  when  seeds  of  this  age 
cannot  be  procured,  new  seeds  may  be  improved  by  carrying  them 
a  few  weeks  previous  to  sowing  in  your  waistcoat  or  breeches 
•  pocket. 

In.  order  to  raise  early  cucumbers  and  melons,  you  must  provide 
i\  quantity  of  fresh  hot  stable-dung,  whertwith  to  make  a  small 
hot-bed  for  a  seed-bed,  in  which  to  raise  the  plants  to  a  proper 
growth  for  transplanting  into  larger  hot -beds  next  month  to  remain 
to  fruit ;  for  this  purpose  a  small  bed  fora  one  or  two  light  frame 
may  be  sufficient,  in  which  case  two  cart-load  of  hot  dung  will  be 
enough  for  making  a  bed  of  proper  dimensions  for  a  one-light  box, 
and  so  in  proportion  for  a  larger. 

Agreeably  to  these  intimations,  provide  the  requisite  supply  of 
good  horse-stable-dung  from  the  dunghills  in  stable-yards,  Sec.  con- 
sisting of  that  formed  of  the  moist  stable  litter  and  dunging  of  the 
horses  together,  choosing  that  which  is  moderately  fresh,  moist,  and 

full  of  heat always  prefering  that  which  is  of  some  lively,  warm, 

steamy  quality  j  and  of  which  take  the  long  and  short  together  as  it 


JAN.]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  5 

occurs,  in  proper  quantity  as  above.  And  being  thus  procured, 
proceed  to  making  the  hot-bed,  or  previously  to  forming  it  into  a 
bed,  if  the  dung  is  rank,  it  would  be  proper  to  prepare  it  a  little  to  an 
improved  state,  more  successful  for  that  purpose,  by  forking  the 
whole  up  into  a  heap,  mixing  it  well  together ;  and  let  it  thus  remain 
eight  or  ten  days  to  ferment  equally,  and  for  the  rank  steam  and 
fierce  heat  to  transpire,  or  evaporate  in  some  effectual  degree ;  and 
by  which  time  it  will  have  acquireda  proper  temperament  for  mak- 
ing into  a  hot-bed,  by  which  treatment  the  heat  will  be  steady  and 
lasting,  and  not  so  liable  to  become  violent  or  burning,  as  when  the 
dung  is  not  previously  prepared. 

Choose  a  place  on  which  to  make  your  hot-bed,  in  a  sheltered  dry 
part  of  the  framing  ground,*  5cc.  open  to  the  morning  and  south 
sun  :  and  it  may  be  made  either  wholly  on  the  surface  of  the  ground, 
or  in  a  shallow  trench,  of  from  six  to  twelve  inches  deep,  and  four 
or  five  feet  wide,  according  to  the  frame ;  but  if  made  entirely  on 
the  surface,  which  is  generally  the  most  eligible  method  at  this  early 
season,  it  affords  the  opportunity  of  lining  the  sides  of  the  bed  with 
fresh  hot  dung,  quite  down  to  the  bottom,  to  augment  the  heat  when 
it  declines,  and  also  prevents  wet  from  settling  about  the  bottom  of 
the  bed,  us  often  happens  wlu-n  made  in  a  trench,  which  chills  the 
dung,  and  causes  the  heat  soon  to  decay. 

Then  according  to  the  size  of  the  frame,  mark  out  the  dimensions 
of  the  bed,  cither  on  the  Around,  or  with  four  stakes;  making  an 
allowanc  i  l«»r  it  to  be  about  four  or  five  inches  wider  than  the  frame 
ra<  h  way  :  this  done,  begin  to  make  the  bed  accordingly,  observing 
to  shake  and  mix  the  dung  well,  as  you  lay  it  on  the  bed,  and  beat 
it  down  with  the  back  of  the  fork,  as  you  go  on  :  but  I  would  not 
advise  treading  it,  for  a  bed  which  is  trodden  hard  will  not  work  so 
kindly,  and  he  more  liable  to  burn  than  that  which  issuflcred  to  set- 
tle gradually  of  itself :  in  this  manner  proceed  till  the  bed  has  ar- 
rived at  the  height  of  four  feet,  which  will  not  be  too  much ;  mak- 
ing an  allowance  for  its  settling  six  or  eight  inches,  or  more,  in  a 
\t «  ek  or  fortnight's  time  ;  and  as  soon  as  finished,  let  the  frame  and 
glass  be  put  on  :  kec  p  them  close  till  the  heat  comes  up,  then  raise 
the  glass  behind  that  the  steam  may  pass  away. 

The  next  thing  to  be  observed,  is  about  earthing  the  bed,  in  which 
to  sow  the  seed ;  and  for  which  occasion,  should  have  a  proper  sup- 
ply of  i  id),  light,  dry  earth,  or  compost,  ready  at  this  season,  under 
some  airy  dry  shed,  qr  hovel,  covered  at  top  to  keep  out  rain,  that 
the  earth  may  be  properly  dry  :  for  if  too  moist  or  wet  at  this  time, 
it  would  prove  greatly  detrimental  both  to  the  growth  of  the  seed  and 
young  plants,  as  well  as  be  very  apt  to  cake  and  burn  at  bottom  next 
the  dung,  by  the  strong  heat  of  the  bed:  therefore,  observing,  that 
for  early  hot-beds  of  cucumbers  and  melons,  should  generally  depo- 


•  Framing  Ground  is  a  part  of  the  Kitchen  Garden,  well  defended  from 
cutting1  \\  iiuis,  and  well  exposed  to  the  sun  ;  particularly  intended  for  framing 
of  all  kinds,  and  generally  enclosed  with  live  or  re. ed  hedges,  or  board  fences, 

tiic  former  being  the  most  preferable. 


THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [JAN. 

sit  a  necessary  quantity  of  proper  earth,  under  some  cover  as  above, 
either  the  beginning  of  winter,  or  at  least  a  fortnight,  or  three  or 
four  weeks  previous  to  making  the  hot-bed,  in  order  to  have  it  in  the 
dry  mellow  state  above  mentioned,  ready  for  immediate  use  when 
wanted. 

Three  or  four  days  after  the  bed  is  made,  prepare  to  earth  it ; 
previously  observing,  if  it  has  settled  unequally,  to  take  off  the  frame 
and  glasses,  and  level  any  inequalities ;  make  the  surface  smooth, 
put  on  the  frame  again,  and  then  lay  therein  as  much  of  the  above- 
mentioned  earth  as  will  cover  the  whole  top  surface  of  the  bed,  about 
three  or  four  inches  thick,  then  fill  two,  three,  or  more  middling 
smallish  garden-pots  with  more  of  the  aforesaid  rich  earth,  place 
them  within  the  frame  on  the  hot-bed,  put  on  the  glass  or  glasses, 
and  continue  them  till  the  earth  in  the  pots  is  warm  ;  and  when  that 
is  effected,  sow  the  seeds  in  the  pots,  both  of  cucumbers  and  me- 
lons, each  separately,  more  or  less  in  each  pot,  according  to  the 
quantity  of  plants  required ;  but  generally  considerably  more  of  cu- 
cumbers than  of  melons  at  this  season,  covering  in  the  seeds  near 
half  an  inch  deep  with  the  same  earth. 

This  done,  place  the  pots  towards  the  middle  of  the  bed,  plunging 
the  bottom  part  a  little  into  the  earth,  drawing  some  of  the  same  up 
round  each  pot  at  the  same  time  ;  or  in  two  or  three  days  after,  may 
sow  a  few  seeds  in  the  earth  of  the  bed,  to  have  a  chance  both  ways  ; 
but  by  sowing  in  pots,  if  the  bed  should  heat  too  violently,  as  is 
sometimes  unavoidably  the  case,  the  pots  can  be  readily  drawn  up 
more  or  less,  out  of  danger  of  burning  the  earth,  8cc.  therein  ;  and 
thus,  the  sowing  in  pots  in  a  new  made  hot-bed  in  full  heat  may 
prove  of  greater  advantage  than  sowing  in  the  earth  of  the  bed,  with 
regard  to  more  probable  safety  from  burning. 

After  sowing  the  seeds,  put  on  the  lights  or  glasses  close ;  but 
when  the  steam  from  the  heat  of  the  bed  rises  copiously,  give  it  vent 
by  raising  one  corner  of  the  upper  ends  of  the  lights,  half  an  inch 
or  an  inch,  which  is  also  necessary  in  order  to  prevent  any  burning 
tendency  from  the  great  heat  of  the  bed  in  its  early  state. 

Continue  now  to  cover  the  glasses  of  the  hot-bed  every  evening, 
about  an  hour  before  sun-setting  if  mild  weather,  but  earlier  in  pro- 
portion to  its  severity,  with  garden  mats ;  and  uncover  them  every 
morning,  not  sooner  than  between  eight  and  nine  o'clock,  at  this 
season  ;  and  observe,  in  covering  up  in  the  evening,  that  as  the  bed 
will  at  first  have  a  strong  heat  and  steam  within  the  frame,  it  may 
be  adviseable  to  cover  only  a  single  mat  thick  for  the  first  three  or 
four  nights,  as  a  thicker  covering  in  the  early  state  of  the  bed  might 
be  apt  to  occasion  a  too  violent  internal  heat  and  steam  of  a  burn- 
ing nature  ;  but  as  the  great  heat  decreases,  augment  the  covering, 
being  careful  not  to  suffer  the  ends  of  the  mats  to  hang  down  con- 
siderably below  the  frame,  over  the  sides  of  the  bed,  except  in  severe 
weather,  which  would  draw  up  a  hurtful  strong  steam  from  the 
dung,  as  well  as  confine  the  steam  and  heat  too  much,  and  keep  the 
bed  too  stiflingly  close  from  the  external  air,  which  would  weaken 
the  germination  or  sprouting  of  the  seed,  and  the  plants  would  come 
up  weak  and  of  a  sickly  yellowish  hue  :  observe,  thereforej  these 


JAN.]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  7 

and  the  following  precautions,  in  order  both  to  prevent  too  great  a 
heat  in  the  bed,  and  that  the  plants  may  rise  with  a  proper  degree 
of  strength  and  healthful  growth. 

Likewise  observe,  on  the  above  considerations,  that  in  covering 
up,  or  applying  the  night  covering  of  mats  over  the  glasses,  during  ' 
the  time  the  strong  heat  and  steam  continue  in  the  bed,  it  would  be 
proper  when  the  mats  are  put  on  in  the  afternoon,  to  raise  the  up- 
per ends  of  the  glass  or  glasses,  a  quarter  of  an  inch  or  a  little  more 
or  less,  occasionally,  both  to  give  vent  to  the  internal  rank  steam, 
and  to  admit  a  moderate  degree  of  fresh  air ;  and  in  which  may 
fasten  one  of  the  covering  mats  to  hang  down  a  little  over  the  part 
where  the  lights  are  occasionally  opened  to  prevent  the  cutting  ex- 
ternal air  from  rushing  immediately  into  the  frame,  especially  after 
the  plants  are  advancing;  but  this,  necessary  as  it  is,  cannot  be  done 
with  safety  in  very  severe  weather. 

Great  care  is  requisite  that  the  earth  in  the  pots  have  not  too 
much  heat,  for  the  bed  is  yet  very  hot,  and  therefore  let  the  degree 
of  internal  heat  in  the  bed  be  daily  examined  ;  and,  if  any  thing  of 
burning  should  appear,  you  can  conveniently  raise  the  pots  farther 
from  the  dung,  from  which  the  danger  proceeds,  without  disturbing 
the  seeds  or  plants,  and  thereby  prevent  all  injury  from  too  much 
heat,  provided  you  examine  the  bed  every  day,  and  give  proper  vent 
to  the  rank  steam  within  the  frame,  while  of  a  burning  quality. 

In  two,  three,  or  four  days  after  the  seed  is  sown,  you  may  expect 
the  plants  to  appear  ;  when  it  will  be  proper  to  admit  fresh  air  to 
them,  by  raising  the  upper  end  of  the  glass  a  little  every  day  :  and 
if  the  earth  in  the  pots  appears  dry,  refresh  it  moderately  with  a  lit- 
tle water  that  has  stood  in  the  bed  all  night,  just  to  take  off  the  cold 
chill ;  applying  it  about  eleven  or  twelve  o'clock  of  the  day,  and  prin- 
cipally only  to  the  earth,  about  the  roots,  not  over  the  tops  of  the 
plants  ;  which  done,  shut  down  the  glasses  close  for  about  half  an 
hour  or  an  hour,  then  opened  again  a  little,  and  shut  close  towards 
the  evening  ;  when  continue  to  cover  the  glass  every  night  with 
garden  mats.  And  at  this  time  also,  if  the  heat  of  the  bed  is  strong 
and  the  weather  not  very  severe,  raise  the  glass  a  little  behind  with 
a  prop,  when  you  cover  up  in  the  evening,  to  give  vent  to  the  steam  ; 
and  nail  a  mat  to  hang  down  over  the  ends  of  the  glass  that  is  raised, 
to  break  off  the  sharp  edge  of  the  external  cold  night  air  from  the 
plants  ;  but  when  the  heat  is  more  moderate,  the  glasses  may  be 
shut  close  every  night,  observing  to  uncover  in  proper  time  every 
morning,  to  admit  the  essential  benefit  of  day -light,  sun,  and  air,  to 
the  plants  ;  being  careful  to  continue  the  admission  of  fresh  air  at 
all  proper  opportunities  in  the  day-time,  to  promote  strength  in  the 
plants,  otherwise  they  would  run  weak,  and  very  long  and  feeble- 
shanked  ;  raising  the  glass  as  before  observed,  and  if  windy  or  very 
sharp  air,  to  hang  a  mat  before  the  place  as  above. 

On  the  day  that  the  plants  appear,  sow  a  little  more  seed  in  the 
same  bed,  in  the  manner  before  mentioned  ;  for  these  tender  plants 
being  liable  to  suffer  by  different  causes  at  this  season,  it  is  proper, 
therefore,  to  sow  a  little  seed  at  three  or  four  different  times  in  the 


8  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [JAN. 

same  bed,  at  short  intervals ;  for  if  one  sowing  should  miscarry, 
another  may  succeed. 

When  the  plants,  however,  both  of  the  first  and  succeeding  sow- 
ings, are  two,  three,  or  four  clays  old,  they  should  be  planted  in 
small  pots,  which  pots  must  be  placed  also  in  the  hot-bed,  in  the 
manner  following  : 

Observe  to  fill  the  pots,  the  day  before  you  intend  to  remove  the 
plants,  with  some  rich,  dry  earth,  and  set  them  within  the  frame  till 
the  next  day,  when  the  earth  in  the  pots  will  be  warm  ;  then  pro- 
ceed to  planting,  take  the  plants  carefully  up  in  the  seed-pots,  raising 
them  with  your  finger,  Sec.  with  all  the  roots  as  entire  as  possible, 
and  with  as  much  of  the  earth  as  will  readily  adhere  about  the  fi- 
bres ;  and  thus,  the  pots  of  earth  being  ready,  and  forming  the  earth 
thereof  a  little  concavely  hollow  a  small  depth,  place  the  plants  in  the 
hollowed  part  of  the  earth  slopingly,  with  their  roots  towards  the 
centre,  and  earth  over  their  roots  and  stems  near  an  inch  thick  ;  ob- 
serving to  plant  three  plants  in  each  pot ;  and  if  the  earth  is  quite 
dry,  give  a  very  little  water  just  to  the  roots  of  the  plants  only  ;  and 
directly  plunge  the  pots  into  the  earth  on  the  bed,  close  to  one 
another,  filling  up  all  the  spaces  between  with  earth  ;  and  let  every 
part  of  the  bed  within  the  frame  be  covered  with  as  much  earth  as 
will  prevent  the  rising  of  the  rank  steam  immediately  from  the 
dung,  which  would  destroy  the  plants. 

Be  careful  to  examine  the  bed  every  day,  to  see  that  the  roots  of 
the  plants  do  not  receive  too  much  heat ;  if  any  thing  like  that  ap- 
pears, draw  up  the  pots  a  little,  or  as  far  as  you  see  necessary  for 
the  preservation  of  the  plants,  re-plunging  them  again  to  their  rims 
when  the  danger  is  over. 

Two  or  three  days  after  planting,  if  the  bed  is  in  good  condition, 
the  plants  will  have  taken  root ;  though  that  is  effected  sometimes 
in  twenty -four  hours. 

When  the  plants  are  fairly  rooted,  if  the  earth  appears  dry,  give 
them  a  little  water  in  the  warmest  time  of  the  day  ;  and  if  the  sun 
shines  it  will  prove  more  beneficial :  let  the  watering  be  occasion- 
ally repeated  very  moderately,  according  as  the  earth  in  the  pots 
becomes  dry,  and  appears  in  want  of  a  little  moisture  :  and  for  this 
purpose  always  have  some  soft  water  set  within  the  frame  a  few 
hours,  to  be  ready  to  water  the  plants  as  you  shall  see  occasion  ; 
but  always  with  very  great  cautious  moderation  at  this  season. 

If  there  is  now  a  brisk  growing  heat  in  the  bed,  you  should,  in 
order  to  preserve  it  as  long  as  possible,  apply  some  outward  pro- 
tection of  long  stable-litter,  straw,  waste  hay,  dried  fern,  or  leaves  of 
trees,  round  the  sides  of  the  bed,  raising  it  by  degrees  round  the 
outsides  of  the  frame. 

This  will  defend  the  beds  from  cold  piercing  wind,  heavy  or 
driving  rains  and  snow,  if  either  should  happen  ;  for  these,  if  suf- 
fered to  come  at  the  bed,  would  chill  it,  and  cause  a  sudden  decay 
of  the  heat,  whereby  the  plants  would  certainly  receive  a  great 
check. 

If  a  lively  heat  be  kept  up,  you  may  admit  air  to  the  plants  every 
day,  to  strengthen  their  growth,  by  tilting  the  glasses  in  proportion 


JAN.]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  9 

to  the  heat  of  the  bed,  and  temperature  of  the  external  air  :  gene- 
rally observing,  in  this  case,  that  when  there  happens  a  sharp  cold 
air,  or  cutting  wind,  it  would  still  be  advisable  to  nail  a  garden-mat 
to  the  upper  end  of  the  glasses,  to  hang  down  over  the  place  where 
the  air  is  admitted,  supported  a  little  hollow  or  detached  under- 
neath, two  or  three  inches  from  the  frame ;  and  it  will  thus  break 
off  and  prevent  the  cutting  external  air  from  entering  immediately 
into  the  frame  upon  the  plants,  and  at  the  same  time  admit  a  proper 
degree  of  mild  fresh  air  to  greater  advantage  :  however,  in  calm 
moderate  weather,  this  precaution  is  not  materially  necessary* 

About  a  fortnight,  or  a  little  more  or  less  time  after  the  bed  is 
made,  you  will  carefully  examine  the  heat  thereof,  to  see  if  it  wants 
augmentation ;  and  when  the  heat  begins  to  decline  considerably^ 
remove  the  temporary  protection  of  straw,  hay,  fern,  or  leaves,  from 
the  front  and  back  of  the  bed,  if  any  was  laid  round  it  as  before  ad- 
ed  ;  then  apply  a  lining  of  fresh  hot  horse-dung,  close  to  one  or  both 
sides,  as  it  shall  seem  necessary,  by  the  heat  being  less  or  more 
decreased  ;  for  a  constant  regular  degree  of  internal  heat  must  be 
supported,  to  resist  the  external  cold,  and  continue  the  plants  in  a 
proper  state  of  advancing  growth ;  but  if  the  heat  is  not  greatly 
declined,  it  would  be  advisable  to  line  only  one  side  first,  applying 
it  to  the  back  of  the  bed ;  and  in  a  week  or  fortnight  after,  line  the 
front,  Sec.  forming  the  lining  about  fifteen  or  eighteen  inches  wide  ; 
but  raise  it  very  little  higher  than  the  dung  of  the  bed,  lest  it  throw 
in  too  much  heat  immediately  to  the  earth  and  roots  of  the  plants ; 
covering  the  top  with  earth  two  inches  thick,  to  preserve  the  heat, 
and  prevent  the  rank  steam  of  the  new  dung  from  coming  Up,  and 
entering  into  the  frame,  where  it  would  prove  destructive  to  the 
plants  ;  the  lining  will  soon  greatly  revive  the  declining  heat  of  the 
bed,  and  continue  it  in  good  condition  a  fortnight  longer. 

Ten  or  twelve  days  after  lining  one  side,  proceed  as  before,  re- 
moving the  protection  of  straw-litter,  &c.  if  any,  from  the  other 
side,  and  applying  a  lining  of  hot  dung  as  above,  afterwards  to 
both  ends  ;....and  these  will  again  revive  and  augment  the  heat  for 
another  fortnight,  or  more. 

After  performing  the  lining,  if  very  cold,  wet,  or  snowy  weather 
prevail,  it  may  be  proper  to  lay  a  quantity  of  dry  long  litter  all 
around  the  general  lining,  which  will  protect  the  whole  from  driv- 
ing cold  rains  and  snow,  and  preserve  the  heat  of  the  bed  in  a  fine 
growing  temperature. 

By  applying  these  linings  of  hot  dung. in  due  time,  and  renewing 
them  as  there  shall  be  occasion,  you  may  preserve  the  bed  in  a  pro- 
per temperature  of  heat,  of  sufficient  duration  to  continue  the  plants 
in  a  free  growing  state  in  the  same  bed,  until  of  due  size  for  ridging 
out  into  the  larger  hot-beds,  finally  to  remain  to  produce  their  fruit. 

Observe,  however,  that  where  there  is  plenty  of  hot  dung,  and 
every  proper  convenience,  you  may,  in  order  to  forward  the  plants 
as  much  as  possible,  prepare  a  second  hot-bed,  by  way  of  nursery, 
about  a  fortnight  after  making  the  seed-bed,  in  order  to  receive  the 
plants  therefrom  in  their  pots,  when  the  heat  begins  to  decline, 
plunging  the  pots  in  the  earth,  as  above  directed  ;  continuing  to  sup- 

c 


10  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 

port  the  heat  of  this  bed,  as  already  explained,  and  in  which  the 
plants  may  be  nursed  and  forwarded,  till  they  acquire  a  proper 

size  for  transplanting  finally  into  the  fruiting  hot-beds See  next 

month. 

When  the  plants  have  advanced  in  growth  with  their  two  first 
rough  leaves,  about  two  or  three  inches  broad,  and  have  pushed 
their  two  first  running  buds  in  the  centre,  or  are  a  little  advanced 
in  the  formation  of  one  or  two  short  runners,  they  are  then  of  a 
proper  size  for  ridging  out  into  the  large  hot-beds,  where  they  are 
finally  to  remain,  which  perform  in  proper  time,  according  to  the 
directions  given  in  February,  under  the  article  Cucumbers. 

But  in  order  to  strengthen  the  plants  in  a  more  firm  stocky 
growth,  and  to  promote  a  production  of  fruitful  runners,  each  plant 
must  be  stopt  (as  the  gardeners  term  it),  or  topped  at  the  first  or 
second  joint :  i.  e.  the  top  of  the  first  advancing  runner,  when  form- 
ed in  the  centre  like  a  small  bud,  should  be  pinched  or  cut  off  close 
to  the  joint,  as  directed  in  February  (which  see),  where  the  method 
of  performing  it  is  more  fully  explained. 

Care  of  the  -various  Sorts  of  Lettuces. 

If  you  have  lettuce  plants  in  frames,  or  under  hoop-arches  de- 
fended with  mats,  let  them  enjoy  the  open  air  at  all  opportunities, 
by  taking  the  glasses,  or  other  shelters,  entirely  off,  when  the 
weather  is  mild  and  dry ;  but  if  the  plants  are  frozen,  let  them,  while 
in  that  state,  be  carefully  protected  from  the  hot  sun,  which  would 
materially  injure  them. 

In  very  wet  weather,  and  when  sharp  cutting  winds  prevail,  keep 
the  glasses  over  them,  observing  however,  to  raise  the  lights  or 
glasses  behind,  two  or  three  inches  in  mild  days,  to  admit  air  to  the 
plants :  for,  if  they  are  kept  too  close,  they  will  be  drawn  up  weak, 
and  attain  to  but  little  perfection  ;  but  let  the  glasses  be  close  shut 
every  night.  In  severe  frosty  weather  keep  them  close  night  and 
day,  and  cover  the  glasses  with  mats,  or  straw,  8cc.  both  of  nights, 
and  occasionally  in  the  day-time,  if  the  frost  is  rigorous  ;  also  let 
the  same  care  be  observed  to  those  under  hoop-arches  ;  but  let  them 
have  the  full  air  in  mild  open  weather. 

Or  where  any  lettuces  are  planted  in  a  south  border,  close  under 
a  wall  or  board  fence,  Sec.  it  would  be  advisable,  in  hard  frost,  to. 
cover  them  as  above. 

In  the  above  lettuces,  in  general,  pick  off  all  decayed  leaves 
when  any  appear,  keep  them  always  cleared  from  weeds,  and  de- 
stroy slugs,  which  often  greatly  annoy  them  ;  and  in  mild  weather 
stir  the  surface  of  the  earth  between,  which  will  much  enliven  the 
plants. 

Sowing  Lettuces. 

When  lettuces  have  not  been  sown  in  autumn  for  early  spring 
use,  you  may  now  sow  any  of  the  cos  or  cabbage  kinds,  on  a  slight 
hot-bed  under  glasses,  to  be  planted  out  in  spring  ;  the  young  plants 
may  be  greatly  forwarded,  if  pricked  into  another  fresh  hot-bed 


JAN.]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  H 

next  month ;  and  in  the  latter  end  of  March,  or  beginning  of  April, 
they  will  be  strong,  and  fit  for  transplanting  into  warm  borders ;  a 
sufficiency  may  be  retained  in  the  frame,  to  arrive  at  early  per- 
fection. 

Forcing  early  Asparagus. 

Hot-beds  for  forcing  asparagus  may  be  made  with  success  any 
time  this  month,  which  will  furnish  young  asparagus  for  the  table 
in  February  and  March. 

Observing,  for  this  occasion,  you  must  be  furnished  with  plants 
that  have  been  raised  in  the  natural  ground  till  of  three  or  four  years 
growth,  of  proper  size  and  strength  to  produce  eligible  crops  of 
good-sized  asparagus  shoots,  when  planted  in  a  hot-bed ;  and  must 
be  provided  with  plenty  of  good  hot  dung,  wherewith  to  make  sub- 
stantial hot-beds,  from  three  to  four  feet  high,  and  with  proper 
large  frames  and  glasses  to  place  on  the  beds,  and  garden  mats,  for 
covering  of  nights,  Sec. 

But  for  general  particulars  of  the  plants,  and  the  necessary  quan- 
tity, as  well  as  of  the  hot-bed,  and  other  requisites. ...See  the  article 
Forcing  Asparagus  in  February,  which  is  equally  applicable  on  the 
present  occasion. 

Mint,  Tansey,  &c. 

Make  a  small  hot-bed  for  some  mint,  when  it  is  required  at  an 
early  season,  in  young  green  shoots,  for  salladsand  mint-sauce,  Sec. 
A  bed  for  a  small  or  middling  garden  frame,  of  one  or  two  lights, 
may  be  sufficient  for  supply  of  a  moderate  family  ;  and  in  general 
about  two  feet  thick  of  dung;  set  on  the  frame,  and  lay-about  four 
or  five  inches  depth  of  earth  on  the  bed,  ready  for  planting. 

Then  having  some  roots  of  common  spear-mint,  place  them  upon 
the  surface,  pretty  thick,  and  cover  them  with  earth  about  an  inch 
and  a  half  deep  ;  or  may  place  the  roots  in  drills,  and  draw  the 
earth  over  them. 

The  mint  will  appear  in  about  a  week  or  fortnight,  and  will  be  in 
fine  order  for  mint-sauce,  &c.  and  either  to  use  alone  as  a  sallad,  or 
to  mix  among  other  small  herbs. 

By  the  same  means  you  may  obtain  green  tansey  and  tarragon. 

Small  Sallading. 

Make  a  slight  hot-bed,  in  which  to  sow  the  different  sorts  of  small 
sallading,  such  as  cresses,  mustard,  radish,  and  rape,  and  likewise 
lettuce,  to  cut  while  young. 

The  hot-bed  for  these  seeds  need  not  be  more  than  about  two 
feet  thick  of  dung,  and  must  be  covered  with  a  frame  and  glasses. 
The  earth  must  be  light  and  dry,  and  laid  about  four  to  five  or  six 
inches  thick  on  the  bed :  then  let  small  shallow  flat  drills  be 
drawn  from  the  back  to  the  front  of  the  bed ;  sow  the  seed  therein, 
each  sort  separately,  and  very  thick,  covering  them  not  more  than 
a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep  with  earth ;  or,  if  but  just  covered,  is  suffi- 
cient, and  the  plants  will  rise  more  expeditious  and  regular  ;  or  the 


12  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [JAN. 

seed  may  be  sown  thick  all  over  the  surface  of  the  bed,  each  sort 
separate  ;  smooth  it  down  with  the  spade,  then  sift  as  much  light 
earth  over  as  will  just  cover  it,  as  above  observed,  and  directly  put 
on  the  glasses;  or  in  want  of  frames  and  lights,  may  use  hand- 
glasses, observing  in  general  to  cover  the  glasses  every  night,  and  in 
severe  frosty  weather,  with  mats  or  straw  litter,  &c. 

As  soon  as  the  plants  appear,  give  them  as  much  air  as  the  state  of 
the  weather  will  admit  of,  by  raising  the  glasses  on  props  ;  otherwise 
they  will  be  apt  to  mould  or  fog,  and  spoil  as  fast  as  they  come  up. 

It  must  be  remembered,  that  where  a  regular  succession  of  these 
small  herbs  is  required  for  sallad,  should  repeat  the  sowings,  at 
least  once  a  fortnight. 

If  you  have  not  hot  dung  to  spare  to  make  hot-beds  for  this  pur- 
pose, may  sow  in  a  sloping  bed  of  natural  earth,  under  a  shallow 
garden  frame,  covered  with  glasses  :  allotting  for  this  occasion  some 
warm  compartments  of  rich  earth  in  the  full  sun :  preparing  it  in 
a  sloping  manner  fronting  the  south,  a  foot  higher  on  the  north 
side  than  in  front.  Set  a  frame  thereon,  sinking  the  back  part,  See. 
so  as  to  have  the  whole  surface  of  the  earth  within  six  or  eight  inches 
of  the  glasses  ;  sow  the  sallading,  put  on  the  glasses,  cover  them 
carefully  with  mats,  &c.  at  night  and  in  very  severe  weather,  and 
you  need  not  doubt  of  success  ;  though,  generally,  a  hot-bed  will 
always  prove  the  most  effectually  successful  on  this  occasion. 

Cauliflower  Plants. 

Look  over,  in  open  weather,  the  cauliflower  plants  which  were 
raised,  and  planted  in  frames  last  autumn  for  protection  in  winter, 
to  plant  out  in  spring,  for  an  early  summer  crop;  and  where  wi- 
thered or  damaged  leaves  appear,  let  them  be  picked  off;  suffer  no 
weeds  to  grow  among  them,  and  stir  the  surface  gently  between, 
which  will  enliven  and  cherish  the  plants. 

In  open  weather,  let  the  plants  have  plenty  of  air  every  day,  by 
raising  the  glasses,  or  by  taking  them  entirely  off  when  the  weather 
Js  mild  and  dry  ;  but  generally  continue  the  glasses  over  in  rainy 
kther  :  keep  them  close  down  every  night,  and  do  not  open  them 
"all  in  severe  frosty  weather. 

severe  weather  cover  the  glasses  every  night  with  mats,  straw, 
for  fern,  Sec.  also,  if  there  be  occasion,  in  the  day-time,  in  very  ri- 
gorous frost ;  likewise,  in  such  weather,  lay  some  litter  round  the 
outsides  of  the  frame,  for  this  will  be  very  serviceable  in  preventing 
the  frost  from  entering  at  the  sides. 

Cauliflowers  under  hand  or  bell-glasses  must  also  have  air  every 
mild  day,  by  raising  the  glasses  two  or  three  inches  on  the  warmest 
side  ;  in  sharp  weather  keep  them  close  ;  in  severe  frost  lay  some 
litter  round,  and  straw  or  mats  over  each  glass  ;  this  will  protect  the 
plants  greatly ;  in  mild  dry  weather  the  glasses  may  be  taken 
off  every  day  for  a  few  hours  ;  but  they  must  be  kept  close  every 
night. 

Solving  Cauliflower  Seed, 

Sow  cauliflower  seed  the  beginning,  middle,  or  any  time  this 
month,  to  raise  plants  to  succeed  those  sown  in  autumn ;  or  also. 


JAN.]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  13 

in  case  none  were  sown  at  that  time  for  an  early  summer  crop,  or 
that  they  have  been  killed  by  the  severity  of  the  winter  ;  but  in  order 
to  bring  the  plants  up  soon,  and  forward  them  in  growth,  it  will  be 
necessary  to  sow  them  in  a  slight  hot-bed.  Plants,  sown  at  this 
season,  if  well  managed,  are  to  be  more  depended  on  for  a  general 
crop,  than  those  which  were  sown  in  autumn,  as  they  are  not  so  apt 
to  button,  or  run  to  seed,  in  April  or  May,  as  the  others,  and  will 
produce  their  flowers  within  ten  days  as  early  ;  though  such  of  the 
autumn  raised  plants,  as  do  not  button,  generally  produce  larger 
flowers,  and  earlier. 

Make  the  bed  as  directed  for  cucumbers,  in  page  4,  to  about  three 
feet  high,  which,  when  settled,  will  fall  to  about  two  feet  six  inches, 
and  put  a  frame  on  ;  then  lay  four  or  five  inches  of  rich  earth  over 
the  bed,  sow  the  seed  on  the  surface,  but  not  until  the  violent  heat 
of  the  bed  is  over  ;  cover  it  by  sifting  or  otherwise,  with  light  dry 
earth,  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep,  and  then  put  on  the  glasses. 

When  the  plants  appear,  let  them  have  air  every  day  that  the 
weather  will  permit,  by  raising  the  upper  ends  of  the  lights  an  inch 
or  two  ;  and  in  -very  wild  weather,  the  lights  may  be  taken  off'  en- 
tirely, for  a  few  hours  in  the  warm  part  of  the  day  :  the  plants  must 
not  be  kept  too  close,  for  that  would  draw  them  up  so  weak,  as  to 
render  them  of  little  value  ;  therefore  give  them  as  much  air  as 
possible,  consistent  with  their  preservation  and  promotion  of 
growth  ;  but  let  them  be  covered  carefully  at  night,  and  in  very  se- 
vere weather. 

Water  them  frequently,  but  sparingly,  with  water  which  has 
stood  over-night  in  the  hot-bed  ;  keep  them  free  from  weeds,  and 
in  one  month,  they  will  be  fit  for  transplanting  into  another  hot- 
bed, ....'See  February. 

Sowing  Cabbage  Seed. 

This  is  a  proper  time  to  sow  a  full  crop  of  early  cabbage  seed,  to 
raise  plants  to  succeed  those  sown  in  September  ;  the  kinds  most 
suitable,  are  the  early  Smyrna,  et:rly  York,  early  dwarf  Battersea, 
and  early  sugar-loaf;  they  are  to  be  treated  in  every  respect,  as  di- 
rected for  the  cauliflower  plants,  with  this  difference,  that  as  they 
are  somewhat  more  hardy,  a  less  degree  of  heat  will  be  sufficient. 

Sow  also  some  of  the  large  late  kinds  of  cabbage,  such  as  the  flat- 
uutch,  drum-head,  &c.  likewise  some  of  the  red  pickling-cabbage  ; 
the  plants  from  this  sowing  will  be  fit  for  use  in  July,  August,  &c. 
and  will  produce  better  and  larger  heads  than  if  sown  in  April  or 
May,  and  besides,  they  will  immediately  succeed  the  early  summer 
kinds  above  mentioned. 

Carrots. 


In  some  families  young  carrots  are  required  as  early  as  possible, 
and  they  may  be  forwarded  by  sowing  the  seed  in  a  moderate  hot- 
bed, about  the  end  of  this  month. 

Make  the  hot-bed  about  two  feet  thick  of  dung,  and  procure  some 
li^ht,  rich,  dry  earth,  which  lay  six  inches  thick  on  the  bed.  Sow 


14  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [JAw. 

the  seed  thinly  on  the  surface,  and  cover  it  with  the  same  kind  of 
earth  a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep. 

When  the  plants  come  up,  let  them  enjoy  the  free  air  in  mild 
weather,  and  cover  them  in  cold  nights,  and  also  in  every  severe 
frost,  whilst  young ;  and  when  an  inch  or  two  high,  thin  them  to 
about  three  inches  asunder ;  and  you  will  thus  have  young  spring 
carrots  for  drawing  in  April  and  May. 

Solving-  Radishes. 

In  order  to  have  radishes  as  early  as  possible,  recourse  must  be 
had  to  the  assistance  of  hot-beds ;  therefore,  any  time  in  this  month, 
make  a  moderate  hot-bed  for  one  or  more  garden  frames,  only  about 
two  feet  and  a  half  depth  of  dung,  sufficient  just  to  promote  the 
early  germination  of  the  seed,  and  forward  the  plants  moderately 
without  running  them  up  long  shanked,  Sec.  When  the  bed  is  made, 
set  on  the  frame,  lay  in  about  six  inches  depth  of  good  light  garden 
earth,  then  having  some  seed  of  the  best  early-frame,  or  short-topped 
radish,  sow  it  evenly  on  the  surface,  press  it  into  the  earth  with  the 
back  of  a  spade,  cover  it  nearly  half  an  inch  deep  with  light  mould, 
and  put  on  the  glasses. 

When  the  plants  appear,  give  them  a  large  share  of  air,  either 
by  taking  the  glasses,  &c.  entirely  off,  whenever  it  can  be  done  with 
safety,  even  for  half  an  hour  at  a  time,  or  tilting  them  up  high  at 
one  end,  as  the  weather  will  permit,  otherwise  they  will  draw,  or 
run  up  long  shanked,  and  be  spoiled ;  and  after  the  plants  have  been 
up  a  few  clays,  thin  them  regularly  with  your  hand,  where  they 
stand  too  thick,  and  leave  the  strongest  plants  standing  not  less  than 
an  inch  asunder.  Support  a  gentle  heat  in  the  bed,  when  it  de- 
clines, by  applying  a  moderate  lining  of  hot  dung. 

Mushrooms. 

Mushroom-beds  should  be  carefully  attended  to  at  this  season. 
They  should  have  sufficient  covering  to  defend  them  effectually  from 
the  frost,  rain,  or  snow ;  which  should  not  be  less  than  two  feet 
thick ;  and  if  heavy  rain  or  snow  should  have  penetrated  quite 
through  the  covering,  this  must  be  removed  immediately,  or  your 
spawn  will  be  in  danger  of  perishing.  Replace  it  with  good  cover- 
ing of  clean  and  dry  wheat  or  other  straw  ;  and  in  order  to  defend 
the  bed  more  effectually  from  wet  and  cold,  it  is  advisable  to  spread 
some  large  garden  mats,  or  canvas  cloths,  over  the  straw,  which  will 
greatly  preserve  the  beds. 

Artichokes. 

Artichokes,  if  not  landed  up  before,  should  not  be  neglected  any 
longer,  except  the  severity"  of  the  frost  prevents  it :  in  which  case, 
as  tnase  plants  are  liable  to  suffer  greatly  by  rigorous  frosts,  it  is  ad- 
visable to  give  some  tempory  protection,  first  clearing  away  the  de- 
cayed and  urge  old  leaves,  then  apply  a  good  thick  covering  of 


JAN.]  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  15 

long,  dry,  strawy  dung,  or  mulchy  litter,  close  about  each  plant :  but, 
if  open  dry  weather,  it  would  be  most  expedient  to  land  them  up ; 
observing,  preparatory  to  this,  to  cut  away  all  the  large  and  decayed 
old  leaves  close  to  the  ground  ;  then  dig  between,  and  earth  up  the 
plants,  as  in  November  and  December. 

But  the  work  of  landing  up  artichokes  should  always  be  perform- 
ed in  November  or  December ;  for  which  see  the  work  of  these 
months.  It  should  never  be  omitted  ;  for  it  is  the  most  general 
effective  method  of  preserving  the  plants  in  severe  winters. 

And  after  they  are  landed,  if  the  frost  should  prove  very  severe, 
it  will  also  be  proper  to  lay  light,  dry,  long  litter  over  the  rows :  if  the 
plants  are  of  the  true  globe  sort,  too  great  care  cannot  be  taken  to 
preserve  them  ;  for  sometimes  a  severe  winter  makes  a  great  havoc 
among  them ;  and,  in  spring,  young  sets  to  recruit  the  plantations, 
may  be  very  difficult  to  procure. 

SOUTHERN    STATES. 

In  Georgia,  South  Carolina,  and  such  parts  of  the  other  southern 
states,  as  are  not  subject  to  winter  frosts,  you  may  sow  carrots, 
parsneps,  beets,  spinach,  lettuce,  radish,  celery,  parsley,  cabbage, 
cauliflower,  borecole,  brocoli,  leeks,  onions,  Sec.  especially  towards 
the  latter  end  of  the  month. 

Sow  peas  and  plant  beans  of  various  kinds,  earth  up  such  peas 
and  beans  as  are  advanced  in  growth,  rod  and  stake  such  of  them 
as  require  it ;  plant  out  cabbage  and  cauliflower  plants,  earth  up  late 
celery,  and  tie  up  endive  for  blanching :  and,  in  short,  do  all  the 
work  directed  to  be  done  in  the  kite  hen -garden  for  the  month  of 
March,  where  you  will  find  ample  instructions  for  performing  the 
sanie. 

In  such  of  the  southern  or  western  states,  as  frosts  are  prevalent 
in,  at  this  season,  the  above  work  must  be  deferred  till  such  period 
in  next  month,  or  even  in  March,  as  it  can  be  done  in,  without  dan- 
ger from  frost ;  with  the  exception,  of  planting  the  Windsor-bean, 
(Vicia  Faba),  and  all  the  different  varieties  of  that  species ;  which 
ought  to  be  planted  as  soon  after  the  middle  of  January,  as  it  is 
possible  to  get  the  ground  in  a  proper^state  of  preparation  to  receive 
them :  they  are  very  hardy,  are  not  subject  to  rot  in  the  ground 
like  kidney-beans,  provided  it  be  dry ;  they  thrive  best  in  a  heavy 
strong  soil,  and  are  seldom  very  productive  in  the  United  States,  if 
not  planted  early. 


THE  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

Pruning. 

WHERE  pruning  was  neglected  in  November  or  December, 
it  can  now  be  done  ;  though  the  latter  end  of  February  is  a  prefera- 
ble time  in  the  middle  states,  and  the  beginning  of  March  in  the 


16  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

eastern  ;  however,  apple  and  pear  trees  being  perfectly  hardy,  may 
be  pruned  at  any  time  during  the  winter  months  with  safety  ; 
plums  and  cherries  may  also  be  pruned  any  time  that  the  wea- 
ther is  tolerably  mild ;  and  as  this  month  will  answer  extremely 
well  in  the  southern  states,  for  pruning  almost  all  kinds  of  fruit- 
trees  ;  it  may  be  useful  to  give  at  this  time,  general  instructions  for 
performing  the  same,  which  may  be  referred  to  at  any  other  period. 

Pruning  Espalier  and  Wall  Trees. 

As  some  people  have  not  a  sufficient  idea  of  what  is  meant  by  es- 
paliers,  the  following  explanation,  and  instructions  for  forming  them, 
&c.  may  not  be  unacceptable. 

Espaliers  are  hedges  of  fruit-trees,  which  are  trained  up  regu- 
larly to  a  lattice  or  trellis  of  wood  work,  and  are  commonly  arranged 
in  a  single  row  in  the  borders,  round  the  boundaries  of  the  principal 
divisions  of  the  kitchen-garden;  there,  serving  a  double  or  treble 
purpose,  both  profitable,  useful,  and  ornamental.  They  produce 
large  fine  fruit  plentifully,  without  taking  up  much  room,  and  being 
in  a  close  range,  hedge-like  ;  they  in  some  degree  shelter  the  escu- 
lent crops  in  the  quarters ;  and  having  borders  immediately  under 
them  each  side,  afford  different  aspects  for  different  plants,  and  also 
they  afford  shelter  in  winter,  forwardness  to  their  south-border  crops 
in  spring,  and  shade  in  summer ;  and  as  to  ornament  and  variety, 
what  can  be  more  delightful  in  spring,  in  the  excursion  of  the  walks, 
than  the  charming  appearance  which  the  trees  make  when  covered 
with  their  showy  bloom,  differing  in  themselves,  in  thosfe  of  differ- 
ent genera,  species,  and  varieties ;  or  in  summer,  to  see  the  fruit 
of  the  different  sorts  advancing  to  perfection,  and  in  autumn  arrive 
successively  to  maturity  ?  And  as  the  trees  are  arranged  all  of  an 
equal  height,  not  exceeding  six  feet,  closely  furnished  with  branches, 
ranged  horizontally  at  regular  distances  one  above  another,  from 
the  very«  ground  upwards,  the  fruit  hereby  are  exhibited  to  great 
advantage,  and  being  low,  and  the  branches  fixed,  are  convenient 
to  pull,  and  not  liable  to  be  blown  down  by  wind. 

An  espalier  has  this  advantage  over  a  wall  tree,  that  as  being 
wholly  detached,  the  branches  have  liberty  to  form  fruit  spurs  on 
both  sides,  which  in  the  wall  tree  cannot  be  effected  but  on  one  ;  in 
fact,  common  fruit-walls  are^  unnecessary  in  the  United  States, 
except  in  the  eastern  and  some  of  the  middle  states,  where  they 
are  useful  in  forwarding  to  clue  perfection,  and  flavour,  some  late 
kinds  of  superior  peaches,  grapes,  and  other  late  fruits  ;  but  when 
walls  are  built  for  other  purposes,  and  are  conveniently  situated, 
advantage  ought  to  be  taken  of  them,  for  raising  fruit ;  observing, 
to  suit  the  various  kinds,  to  the  various  aspects. 

Trellis's  are  also  used  occasionally  for  wall  trees,  where  the  wall 
does  not  admit  of  nailing  the  branches  immediately  against  it;  also 
for  training  wall  trees  in  forcing-houses  and  forcing-frames,  and  are 
formed  according  to  different  degrees  of  taste,  for  use  and  ornament, 
as  well  as  of  different  dimensions,  from  four  or  five  to  six,  or  in 
forcing-houses,  to  seven,  eight,  or  ten  feet  high. 


JAN.]  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  17 

For  common  espalier  fruit-trees  in  the  open  ground,  a  trellis  is 
absolutely  necessary,  and  may  either  be  formed  of  common  stakes 
or  poles,  or  of  regular  joinery  work,  according  to  taste  or  fancy. 

The  cheapest,  the  easiest,  and  soonest  made  trellis  for  common 
espalier  trees,  is,  that  formed  with  straight  poles,  being  cut  into 
proper  lengths,  and  driving  them  into  the  ground,  in  a  range,  a 
foot  distance,  all  of  an  equal  height,  and  then  railed  along  the  top 
with  the  same  kind  of  poles  or  slips  of  pine  or  other  boards,  nailed 
down  to  each  stake,  to  preserve  the  whole  straight  and  firm  in  a 
regular  position  ;  to  which  the  branches  of  the  espalier  trees  are  to 
be  fastened  with  small  osier-twigs,  rope  yarn,  &c.  and  trained  along 
horizontally  from  stake  to  stake,  as  directed  for  the  different  sorts 
under  their  proper  heads. 

To  render  the  above  trellis  still  stronger,  run  two  or  three  hori- 
zontal ranges  of  rods  or  small  poles  along  the  back  parts  of  the  up- 
rights, a  foot  or  eighteen  inches  asunder,  fastening  them  to  the 
upright  stakes,  either  with  pieces  of  strong  wire  twisted  two  or  three 
times  round,  or  by  nailing  them. 

But  when  more  elegant  and  ornamental  trellis*s  of  joinery  work 
are  required  in  any  of  the  departments,  they  are  formed  with  re- 
gularly squared  posts  and  rails,  of  good  durable  timber,  neatly  planed 
and  framed  together,  fixing  the  main  posts  in  the  ground,  ten  or 
twelve  feet  asunder,  with  smaller  ones  between,  ranging  the  hori- 
zontal railing  from  post  to  post,  in  three  or  more  ranges  ;  the  first 
being  placed  about  a  foot  from  the  bottom,  a  second  at  top,  and  one  or 
two  along  the  middle  space,  and  if  thought  convenient,  may  range 
one  between  each  of  the  intermediate  spaces;  then  fix  thin  slips 
of  lath,  or  the  like,  upright  to  the  horizontal  railing,  ten  inches  or 
a  foot  asunder  ;  and  paint  the  whole  with  oil  colour,  to  render  it 
more  ornamental  and  durable  ;  and  in  training  the  trees,  tie  their 
branches  both  to  the  railing  of  the  trellis,  and  to  the  upright  laths, 
according  as  they  extend  in  length  on  each  side. 

In  either  of  the  above  trellis's  for  a  common  espalier,  five  or  six 
feet  at  most,  is  a  sufficient  height,  as,  if  much  higher,  the  winds, 
having  great  power,  would  be  very  apt  to  loosen  and  displace  them. 

The  permanent  trellis's  ought  not  to  be  made  till  the  second  or 
third  year  after  planting,  except  the  trees  have  had  as  long  a  time 
of  regular  and  judicious  training  ;  for  while  they  are  young,  it  will 
be  sufficient  to  drive  a  few  short  stakes  into  the  ground  on  each  side 
of  the  trees,  in  a  straight  line,  to  which  the  branches  should  be  fas- 
tened in  a  horizontal  position,  as  they  are  produced,  in  order  to  train 
them  properly  for  the  espalier;  these  will  be  sufficient  for  the  two 
or  three  first  years,  for  should  you  make  the  regular  espalier  or 
trellis  the  first  year  the  trees  are  planted,  many  of  the  stakes  would 
rot  before  the  espalier  is  covered.  For  directions  respecting  the 
planting  espalier  and  wall-trees,  see  March  and  October. 

Pruning  A/ifile  and  Pear  trees,  in  Espaliers,  or  trained  to  Walls 
cr  £card  fences. 


Apple  and  pear  trees  being  of  the  spur-bearing  kind,  and  their 
mode  of  bearing  similar,  one  method  of  pruning  answers  for  both  ; 


18  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  [JAN. 

they  producing  their  fruit  upon  short  natural  spurs  from  the  sides 
and  ends  of  the  branches,  and  the  same  branches  continue  bearing* 
for  many  years,  increasing  their  quantity  of  fruit-spurs  as  they  gra- 
dually advance  in  length  ;  let  it  therefore  be  remarked,  that  in  the 
general  course  of  pruning  those  trees,  their  branches  and  shoots  are 
not  to  be  shortened,  but  generally  trained  along  horizontally  to  the 
espalier  and  wall,  at  their  natural  length,  at  least  as  far  as  there  is 
scope  of  room  to  extend  them  ;  never  shortened  except  on  particu- 
lar occasions,  below  explained  :  and  the  whole  trained  four  to  five 
or  six  inches  asunder. 

Keeping  therefore  this  in  mind,  look  over  the  general  branches, 
in  which  observe,  that  in  such  advancing  young  trees  as  are  still  in 
training,  requiring  a  farther  supply  of  young  wood  to  form  the  head, 
be  careful  to  select  and  retain  a  proper  quantity  of  the  best-placed 
last  summers  shoots  at  full  length,  and  generally  a  terminal  shoot 
to  each  mother  branch  ;  and  cut  out  all  the  superfluous  and  irregu- 
lar ones ;  but,  in  full-trained  or  old  trees,  still  retaining  the  former 
trained  or  same  individual  bearing  branches  for  many  years,  as  long 
as  they  continue  fruitful ;  and  only  examine  any  particular  branches 
that  appear  worn  out  or  decayed,  or  any  that  are  too  much  crowded 
or  very  irregular,  and  let  such  be  now  pruned  out ;  at  the  same 
time  observe  where  any  of  the  last  summer's  shoots  are  wanted  to 
supply  vacant  spaces,  and  retain  them  accordingly  ;  cutting  out  all 
the  superfluous  or  over  abundant,  dose  to  the  main  branches ;  like- 
wise, let  all  fore  right  and  other  irregular-placed  shoots  be  cut  away ; 
carefully  retaining  the  leading  shoot  to  all  the  main  branches,  where 
there  is  a  scope  to  run  them  ;  so  retaining  the  general  branches  and 
the  necessary  supply  of  young  wood,  about  four  to  five  or  six  inches 
asunder,  to  be  trained  to  the  trellis  or  wall,  8cc.  all  at  their  full 
length,  as  aforesaid  ;  and,  according  as  they  advance  in  length,  still 
continue  extending  them,  or  without  shortening,  at  least  as  far  as 
their  limited  space  admits. 

In  the  course  of  this  pruning,  have  particular  care  to  preserve 
all  the  natural  fruit-spurs ;  but  cut  away  all  those  formed  of  the 
remaining  stumps  of  shortened  shoots,  for  these  rarely  produce  any 
thing  but  a  confusion  of  unnecessary  wood-shoots  every  summer : 
and  for  which  reason  be  careful,  in  pruning  out  the  superfluous  and 
irregular  shoots,  always  to  cut  them  off  quite  close  from  whence- 
they  originate. 

Then  train  in,  all  the  remaining  proper,branches  and  shoots  at 
their  full  length,  about  from  four  to  five  or  six  inches  asunder,  as 
aforesaid,  without  reducing  them  in  length  either  in  the  summer  or 
winter  pruning. 

By  the  above  practice,  the  shoots  or  branches  of  these  trees  will, 
about  the  second  or  third  year  after  they  are  laid  in,  begin  to  pro- 
duce short  shoots  or  spurs  (as  they  are  generally  termed)  about  an 
inch  or  two  in  length  ;  some  not  above  half  an  inch  ;  and  from  these 
the  fruit  is  produced. 

But  if  the  branches  of  these  trees  were  to  be  shortened,  it  would 
be  cutting  oft*  the  very  part  where  blossom-buds  or  spurs  first  begin 
to  appear ;  and  instead  of  those  fruitful  parts,  they  would  send  forth 


JAN.]  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  19 

a  number  of  strong  wood-shoots.  This  plainly  shows,  that  the 
shoots  which  are  intended  for  fruit-bearing  must  not  be  generally 
shortened  ;  for  if  that  is  practised,  the  trees  would  constantly  run  to 
wood,  and  never  produce  any  tolerable  crop  of  fruit. 

If,  indeed,  there  is  a  want  of  wood  in  any  part  of  these  trees,  then 
the  occasional  shortening  of  some  of  the  adjacent  young  shoots  may 
be  necessary,  whereby  to  promote  a  production  of  laterals  the  ensu- 
ing summer  to  furnish  the  vacancy. 

For  instance,  if  there  is  any  vacant  part  in  the  tree,  and  two, 
three,  or  more  shoots,  are  requisite  to  furnish  that  vacancy,  and 
only  one  shoot  was  produced  in  that  part  the  preceding  summer, 
that  shoot,  in  such  a  case/being  now  shortened  to  four  or  five  buds, 
it,  if  strong,  will  produce  three  or  four  lateral  shoots  the  summer 
following. 

Pruning  Plums  and  Cherries. 

This  is  also  a  proper  season  to  prune  plums  and  cherries,  either 
against  walls  or  espaliers,  especially  where  the  weather  is  mild. 

Let  it  be  observed,  in  the  pruning  of  these  trees  against  walls  or 
espaliers,  that,  like  the  apples  and  pears,  they  being  of  the  spur- 
bearing  kind,  producing  the  fruit  upon  short  natural  spurs  or  studs, 
emitted  along  the  sides  of  the  branches,  or  from  two  or  three  to 
many  years  old,  so  must  accordingly  retain  the  same  branches  many 
years  for  bearers,  which  must  not  be  shortened  in  the  course  of 
pruning,  but  trained  horizontally  at  their  full  length,  about  three  or 
four  to  five  or  six  inches  asunder  ;  also  all  young  shoots  of  the  last 
year's  growth,  as  are  now  proper  to  be  reserved  in  vacancies,  to  fur- 
nish the  wall  or  espalier  with  bearing  wood,  must  not  be  shortened ; 
but  every  such  shoot  or  branch  must  be  left  entire  ;  and  this  should 
at  all  times  be  observed,  which  is  the  only  certain  method  whereby 
to  render  the  branches  fruitful. 

In  the  operation  of  pruning  these  trees,  observe,  as  advised  for 
the  apple  and  pear  trees,  to  give  proper  attention  both  in  any  young 
trees  still  under  training,  and  in  the  fully-trained  older  trees  fur- 
nished with  the  requisite  expansion  of  branches. 

Observing,  in  the  former,  i.  e.  the  young  trees  under  training, 
that  where  further  supplies  of  branches  are  required  in  order  to 
form  a  proper  expansion  of  bearers  trained  in  regularity,  should 
be  careful  to  leave  some  best  well-placed  young  shoots  for  that 
purpose ;  and  cut  out  the  improper  and  unnecessary,  such  as  fore- 
right  and  other  irregular  placed  growths  ;  or  also  any  superfluous 
or  over-abundant  shoots,  that  may  occur  in  particular  parts  of  the 
trees;  retaining  the  reserved  proper  shoots  mostly  at  their  full 
length,  for  training  as  above ;  and  they  will  thus,  in  from  one  to 
two  or  three  years'  growth,  furnish  natural  fruit-spurs  for  bearing ; 
but  generally  sooner  in  the  cherries  than  the  plums,  as  some  sort 
of  cherries  will  probably  bear  fruit  the  same  year,  on  the  young 
shoots  now  trained  in :  the  morella  in  particular  bears  mostly  on 
the  one-year-old  shoots.  For  observations  thereon. ...see  November. 

And  in  the  full-trained  trees  of  the  above  sorts,  look  carefully 
over  the  general  expansion  ;  and  where  any  occasional  supply  of 


20  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  [JAN. 

young  wood  appears  necessary,  select  and  retain  some  best-placed 
proper  shoots  of  last  summer  accordingly,  either  to  furnish  any- 
present  vacancy,  or  to  train  in  between  the  main  branches  where  it 
may  seem  expedient,  in  order  to  be  advancing  to  a  bearing  state, 
ready  to  supply  any  apparent  future  occasion  ;  but  in  the  morella 
particularly,  above  mentioned,  retain  always  a  general  supply  for 
principal  bearers  :  (see  November :)  and  prune  out  all  irregular  and 
superabundant  shoots  close  to  the  mother  branches  ;  and  if  casual 
worn-out  or  decayed  old  unfruitful  branches  occur,  let  them  now  be 
cut  out,  retaining  young  wood  of  proper  growth,  &c.  to  supply  their 
place ;  preserving  also,  in  all  vacant  spaces,  a  supply  of  the  best 
young  shoots  at  their  natural  length,  as  above  advised,  and  a  lead- 
ing one  to  each  branch ;  being  careful  to  preserve  all  the  short  na- 
tural fruit-spurs,  and  cut  away  close  any  remaining  naked  stumps 
of  former  shortened  shoots  :  then,  as  soon  as  a  tree  is  thus  pruned, 
proceed  to  train  in  all  the  proper  shoots  and  branches  to  the  wall, 
or  espalier,  at  their  full  length,  as  aforesaid  at  the  above  men- 
tioned distances :  and  all  those  thus  treated  will,  in  two  or  three 
years  time,  send  out  many  short  shoots,  or  fruit-spurs,  about  half 
an  inch  or  an  inch  in  length  ;  and  from  these  spurs  the  fruit  is  al- 
ways produced. 

These  spurs  generally  appear  first  toward  the  upper  part,  or 
that  which  was  once  the  superior  part  of  the  one,  two,  and  three 
years  old  branches ;  and  if  shortening  was  to  be  practised,  those 
parts  would  consequently  be  cut  away  where  the  blossom-buds 
would  have  otherwise  first  made  their  appearance.  Therefore,  in 
the  course  of  pruning,  apple,  pear,  plum,  and  cherry  trees,  never 
shorten  or  top  the  young  shoots  that  are  left  for  a  supply  of  bear- 
ing wood,  nor  any  of  the  bearing  branches,  if  there  is  room  to  extend 
them  ;  and  they  will  thus  all  gradually  form  themselves  into  a  plen- 
tiful bearing  state. 

But  if  shortening  was  generally  practised  to  these  kinds  of  fruit- 
trees,  as  is  the  case  with  many  primers,  it  would  prove  their  mani- 
fest destruction  in  regard  to  preventing  their  fruitfulness:  for,  in 
the  places  where  fruit-buds  would  otherwise  naturally  appear,  there 
would  advance  nothing  but  strong  wood  shoots  ;  so  that  the  trees 
would  be  continually  crowded  with  useless  and  unfruitful  wood. 

When,  however,  there  is  at  any  time  a  supply  of  wood  wanted, 
then  shortening  particular  shoots  may  be  proper,  as  observed  above 
for  the  apples  and  pears. 

General  Observations  in  pruning  all  the  above  Trees. 

We  observed  above,  that  shortening  the  branches  of  apple,  pear, 
plum,  and  cherry  trees,  was  not  proper  in  the  general  course  of 
pruning  ;  it,  however,  in  some  particular  cases,  is  most  necessary ; 
for  which  take  the  following  hints  : 

For  exam  pie,  when  the  trees,  for  walls  and  espaliers  particularly, 
are  about  one  year  old  from  the  budding  or  grafting,  either  in  the 
nursery,  or  newly  planted  against  walls  or  espaliers,  with  their  first 
shoot  immediately  from  the  budding  or  grafting,  at  full  length,  it 


JAN.]  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  21 

is  proper  to  shorten  or  head  down  these  shoots  near  the  insertion 
of  the  bud  or  graft,  to  force  out  lateral  branches,  which  is  called 
heading  down  the  trees ;  but  this  should  not  be  done  till  February 
or  March,  cutting  them  down  to  four  or  five  eyes  ;  which  will  pro- 
cure a  production  of  lateral  shoots  near  the  head  of  the  stock  from 
these  remaining  lower  eyes  or  buds,  the  following  summer,  in  or- 
der for  training  in  accordingly,  that  the  wall  or  espalier  may  be 
regularly  furnished  with  branches  from  the  bottom.  After  this,  the 
branches  are  to  be  trained  along  at  their  full  length,  except  it  ap- 
pears necessary  to  shorten  some  or  all  of  these  lateral  shoots,  in 
order  that  each  may  throw  out  also  two  or  three  lateral  branches  to 
furnish  that  part  of  the  tree  more  effectually ;  training  the  said  la- 
teral shoots  also  at  their  full  length ;  btft  if  there  appear  to  be  still 
more  branches  wanting,  some  of  the  most  convenient  of  these  last 
shoots  may  also  be  shortened,  to  promote  their  producing  a  farther 
supply  of  lateral  branches,  sufficient  to  give  the  tree  its  proper 
form  ;  for  the  great  article  in  this  training-pruning  is  to  encourage 
and  assist  young  wall  and  espalier  fruit-trees  in  their  first  two  or 
three  years'  growth,  to  produce  shoots  in  proper  places,  so  as  to 
cover  the  wall  or  espalier  regularly  with  branches,  from  the  bottom 
to  the  top. 

But  when  the  trees  have  acquired  branches  enough  to  effect  the 
first  proper  formation  of  the  head,  they  will  afterwards  naturally  fur- 
nish further  supplies  to  cover  the  wall  or  espalier  regularly  every 
way,  to  the  allotted  extent,  without  any  farther  shortening,  except 
on  particular  occasions,  when  a  vacancy  happens  in  any  part,  ac- 
cording to  the  rule  mentioned,  in  the  article  of  apples  and  pears. 

There  is  one  thing  farther  to  be  observed  in  pruning  apple,  pear, 
plum,  and  cherry  trees ;  and  that  is,  when  the  trees  have  acquired 
branches  enough  to  cover  the  wall  or  espalier,  at  the  distance  above 
mentioned,  then  all  those  young  shoots  of  the  last  summer's  growth, 
that  are  not  wanted  in  vacancies  to  form  new  bearers,  must  be  cut 
off  quite  close  to  the  place  from  whence  they  arise,  leaving  no  spurs 
but  the  fruit-spurs  that  are  naturally  produced,  which  every  branch 
will  be  plentifully  furnished  with,  if  the  above  rules  are  observed. 

Peaches^  Nectarines^  and  Afiricots. 

In  the  training  and  pruning  of  peaches,  nectarines,  and  apricots, 
little  or  no  difference  is  to  be  observed  ;  they  all  produce  their  fruit 
principally  upon  the  young  shoots  of  the  former  summer,  the  fruitr 
blossoms  rising  directly  from  the  eyes  of  the  shoots ;  a  plentiful 
supply  of  which,  must  be  reserved  annually  in  every  part,  to  train 
in  for  bearing  :  they  also  sometimes  bear  on  the  small  natural  spurs 
arising  on  the  two  or  three  years'  wood,  which  generally  occur 
more  frequently  in  the  apricots ;  and  all  such  spurs  should  be  care- 
fully preserved,  for  they  generally  bear  good  fruit ;  keeping  in 
mind,  however,  that  the  young  yearling  shoots  are  to  be  considered 
as  the  general  bearers :  observing,  that  as  the  general  branches  and 
bearing  shoots  are  to  be  trained  to  the  wall  or  espalier  horizontally, 
about  three  to  four  or  five  inches  distance,,  we  must  prune  out  an- 


22  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  [JAN. 

nually  all  superabundant  shoots,  or  that  are  more  than  can  be  trained 
in  with  proper  regularity  ;  likewise  a  considerable  part  of  the  old, 
or  two  last  year's  bearers ;  and,  observing,  that  as  a  general  supply 
of  the  best  of  the  last  year's  shoots  must  annually  be  left  in  a  regu- 
lar manner  in  every  part  of  the  tree,  to  bear  the  fruit  the  succeed- 
ing summer,  each  of  the  said  shoots  must  be  shortened  more  or  less, 
according  to  their  strength,  now  in  the  winter  pruning,  as  directed 
below,  in  order  to  encourage  them  to  produce  a  more  regular  suc- 
cession of  bearing  wood  in  the  ensuing  summer.  The  wood,  which 
is  then  produced,  will  bear  fruit  in  the  summer  after  that ;  and  the 
same  shoots  both  bear  the  fruit  and  a  supply  of  successional  shoots 
at  the  same  time  for  future  bearers,  &c. 

Before  you  begin  to  prune,  in  these  trees  particularly,  it  is  pro- 
per generally  to  unnail  and  unbind  all  the  young  shoots  which  were 
nailed  or  bound,  in  last  summer,  and  great  part  of  their  respective 
mother  branches  ;  by  which  means  you  will  have  room  to  examine 
the  shoots,  and  to  use  your  knife  properly. 

In  the  course  of  pruning  these  trees,  be  careful  to  select  the  most 
promising  and  best  situated  shoots  at  the  above  distances,  in  a  regu- 
lar manner,  advancing,  as  it  were,  one  after  another,  in  every  part 
of  the  tree,  making  room  for  them,  by  cutting  out  all  the  other  use- 
less or  unnecessary  shoots,  together  with  a  proportionable  share  of 
the  former  bearers,  before  intimated,  and  old  naked  branches  not 
furnished  with  bearing  wood. 

For  example,  you  are  to  observe,  that  these  young  shoots  are,  as 
above  hinted,  produced  principally  upon  those  shoots,  which  were 
laid  in  last  winter,  and  which  produced  the  fruit  last  summer  ;  and 
some  casually  on  the  older  wood  ;  but  shall  suppose  many  of  the  said 
shoots,  or  branches,  which  were  laid  in  last  winter,  to  have  produced 
each  three  shoots  in  summer,  and  that  they  now  all  remain,  but  that 
there  may  not  be  room  to  lay  in  more  than  one  of  the  said  shoots  on 
each  of  the  branches  ;  it  remains  to  be  considered,  which  of  these 
three  shoots  on  each  branch  is  proper  to  be  left ;  whether  the  up- 
permost, middle,  or  lower  of  the  three :  there  is  no  general  rule 
for  this,  but  we  will  suppose  the  middlemost ;  in  which  case,  cut  off 
the  lower  one  quite  close  to  the  branch,  and  then  that  part  of  the 
branch  which  hath  the  upper  shoot  upon  it,  must  be  pruned  down 
to  the  middle  one ;  so  that  there  is  only  the  middle  shoot  now  re- 
maining, which  terminates  or  makes  the  end  of  the  branch :  but,  if 
it  is  thought  most  convenient  to  leave  the  uppermost  of  the  three, 
the  middle  and  lower  are  to  be  cut  away  close  to  the  branch  :  or, 
on  the  contrary,  if  the  lower  shoot  only  is  to  be  left,  cut  off  the 
branch  with  the  middle  and  upper  shoot  thereon,  close  to  the  lower 
one  :  and  if  thought  most  proper  to  leave  in  any  place  two  out  of 
the  three  shoots  on  a  branch,  then  the  upper  and  lower  are  appa- 
rently most  proper,  provided  they  are  the  best  shoots,  and  so  cut 
out  the  middle  one  :  or  if  two  lower  shoots  appear  best  for  your  pur- 
pose, cut  off  the  upper  part  of  the  branch  with  the  top  shoot  close 
to  the  middle  one  ;  and,  if  to  retain  the  two  upper  shoots,  prune 
out  the  lowermost :  there  may  not  always  happen  to  be  just  three 
young  shoots  on  every  year's  branches  ;  but  I  choose  to  mention 


JAN.]  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  23 

that  number,  that  I  may  be  the  better  able,  in  this  small  compass, 
to  explain  and  convey  some  idea  of  the  method  practised  in  pruning 
these  sorts  of  trees. 

At  the  same  time,  observe,  in  the  above  general  priming,  to  re- 
tain the  most  promising  well-placed  shoots,  of  the  best  middling, 
or  moderately  strong  growth,  and  which  appear  the  most  fruitful, 
or  likely  to  furnish  a  proper  supply  of  blossom -buds  ;  rejecting 
very  weakly  slender  shoots,  and  such  as  are  very  long-jointed,  like- 
wise uncommonly  thick  spongy  growths,  as  also  remarkably  rank 
luxuriants,  cutting  them  all  clean  out ;  likewise  the  foreright  and 
others  ill-placed,  that  could  not  be  trained  with  proper  regularity.... 
And,  as  you  proceed,  cut  out  some  considerable  part  of  the  past 
bearers  of  the  last,  or  two  or  three  preceding  years,  to  make  room 
for  the  above  young  supply ;  pruning  them  down  to  some  eligible 
lateral  shoots,  or  some  occasionally  to  their  origin,  as  it  may  seem 
expedient :  also  take  out  casual  old  naked  branches,  advanced  of 
some  considerable  length,  without  being  now  furnished  with  lateral 
young  bearers,  or  fruitful  shoots,  eligibly  placed  for  training  where 
wanted  ;  pruning  them  either  entirely  out  to  make  room  for  the 
more  fruitful  wood,  or  pruned  down,  more  or  less,  to  any  more 
prolific  well-placed  young  branch  proceeding  therefrom,  and  that  is 
furnished  with  young  shoots  for  bearing. 

Next  let  it  be  remembered,  that  as  you  proceed  in  pruning  these 
trees,  most  of  those  young  shoots  that  are  left  to  bear,  must  be 
shortened,  especially  the  smaller  and  middling,  and  those  of  mode- 
rate growth,  both  to  strengthen  them  in  their  future  production, 
and  to  promote  their  producing  more  certainly  a  supply  of  succes~ 
sional  lateral  shoots  next  summer,  properly  situated,  so  as  to  conti- 
nue every  part  of  the  tree  always  well  furnished  with  bearers ;  for 
without  this  precaution  of  shortening  the  shoots,  many  of  them  are 
apt  to  run  up,  producing  laterals  only,  mostly  towards  the  upper 
part,  leaving  the  bottom  naked  ;  whereby  the  tree  in  time  becomes 
devoid  of  bearing  shoots  below ;  so  that  the  shortening  should  be 
performed,  more  or  less,  according  to  their  strength,  and  that  of 
the  tree  in  general.  Though  with  standard  trees  of  these  kinds, 
shortening  the  shoots  is  not  necessary,  yet  when  trained  to  walls 
or  espaliers,  it  certainly  is  ;  for  the  reasons  above  assigned. 

For  instance,  if  a  tree  is  weak,  or  but  a  moderate  shooter,  gene- 
rally leaving  the  shoots  about  five  or  six  inches  apart,  for  training 
in  nearly  at  that  distance,  let  them  be  shortened  according  to  their 
strength  ;  some  of  the  weaker  shoots  to  five,  six,  or  eight  inches, 
others  of  stronger  growth,  to  about  ten  or  twelve,  to  fifteen  or  eigh- 
teen inches  long  ;  for  the  shortening  should  always  be  performed, 
more  or  less,  according  to  the  different  shoots,  and,  in  some  degree, 
according  as  the  blossom-buds  appear  situated  higher  or  lower  on 
the  respective  shoots ;  never  shorten  below  all  the  said  buds,  in 
those  shoots  designed  principally  for  bearing. 

When  a  tree  is  in  a  moderate  good  condition,  neither  very  vi- 
gorous nor  weakly,  but  a  middling  strong  shooter,  the  shoots  may 
be  left  nearly  about  three  to  four  or  five  inches  asunder,  and  should 
be  shortened  rather  less  in  proportion,  than  the  foregoing,  but  agree- 


24  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  [JA3r. 

able  to  the  same  rules  in  shoots  of  different  growths  ;  pruning  some 
to  about  eight,  ten,  or  twelve  inches,  others  to  fifteen  or  eighteen 
inches  long,  or  more,  according  to  their  strength  and  situation  in 
different  parts  of  the  tree,  as  well  as,  in  some  cases,  the  apparent 
situation  of  the  blossom-buds,  in  being  placed  higher  or  lower  on 
the  respective  shoots  selected  for  bearers,  as  before  observed. 

But  when  any  trees  are  of  very  vigorous  growth  in  their  general 
shoots,  they  must  be  shortened  but  moderately  ;  or  some  shoots 
very  little  ;  in  which  some  of  the  less  vigorous  may  be  cut  to  about 
twelve  or  fifteen  inches;  but  in  stronger  shoots  prune  off  only  about 
one -third  or  fourth  of  their  length,  or  some  of  the  most  luxuriant 
left  mostly  at  their  full  length :  for  if  the  strong  shoots  of  a  gener- 
ally vigorous  tree  were  to  be  much  shortened,  it  would  occasion 
their  shooting  still  more  luxuriantly  to  rampant  unfruitful  wood  ; 
therefore  the  vigorous  shoots  should  be  very  moderately  shortened; 
and  where  they  are  general  in  a  tree,  it  is  advisable  both  to  leave 
them  closer  and  of  much  greater  length  than  the  shoots  in  mode- 
rate growing  trees,  that  the  exuberance  of  sap  may  be  expended  in 
the  larger  extent  and  expansion  of  wood,  and  the  tree  thereby  in 
time  become  a  more  moderate  shooter  and  a  good  bearer. 

Observe,  however,  in  shortening  the  shoots  in  general,  both  in 
trees  of  moderate,  middling,  and  strong  growth,  that  in  those  shoots 
adapted  for  principal  bearers  the  ensuing  season,  should  be  careful 
not  to  cut  away  too  low,  or  below  all  or  most  of  the  blossom-buds, 
or  parts  where  they  are  expected  to  advance,  being  generally  dis- 
tinguishable from  the  leaf  or  shoot-buds  by  their  round,  plump,  swel- 
ling appearance,  the  others  being  oblong,  narrow,  and  flattish  ;  and 
therefore  should  give  proper  attention  to  shorten  accordingly  in  the 
shoots  where  the  fruit-buds  are  apparent. 

Likewise  observe,  that  in  shortening  the  bearing  shoots  or  others 
of  those  trees,  they  should  generally,  where  practicable,  be  cut  to 
an  eye  or  wood-but  that  is  likely  to  produce  a  shoot  for  a  leader 
the  ensuing  season  ;  the  shoot-bud-eyes  being  distinguishable 
from  the  fruit  or  blossom -buds,  by  their  longer,  flattish  form,  the 
others  being  roundish,  swelling,  and  turgid ;  or  may  also,  occasion- 
ally, prune  to  an  eye  having  one  or  two  blossom-buds,  as  frequently, 
from  the  same  eye,  shoot-buds  are  also  formed  on  one  side  of  the 
single  or  between  the  two  twin  blossom-buds  aforesaid,  and  from 
which  a  good  leading  shoot  will  be  most  likely  produced,  which  is 
necessary  to  the  welfare  of  the  fruit :  for  where  a  leading  shoot  is 
produced  at  or  near  the  extremity  of  a  bearing  branch,  it  draws  nou- 
rishment to  the  fruit  more  effectually. 

After  having  pruned  one  tree,  let  it  be  directly  nailed  or  bound 
as  you  go  on  ;  observing  to  lay  in  the  branches  and  shoots  horizon- 
tally, perfectly  straight,  and  parallel  to  each  other  at  the  above  men- 
tioned distances,  nailing  them  all  close  to  the  wall,  or  tying  them 
to  the  trellis  in  a  neat  manner.  , 

Prune  Gooseberry  and  Currant  trees. 

Gooseberries  and  currants  bear  both  on  the  young  one  or  two 
years'  wood,  and  upon  the  several  years'  branches,  generally  upon 


JAN.]  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  25 

small  spurs  rising  naturally  all  along  the  sides  ;  and  in  each  winter- 
pruning  it  will  be  required  to  cut  out  any  casual  worn  out,  decayed, 
and  very  irregular  branches,  and  a  proportionate  supply  of  last  sum* 
mer's  young  shoots  retained,  and  the  rest  pruned  out. 

In  priming  gooseberries,  let  them  be  always  kept  thin  of  branches, 
and  these  not  permitted  to  grow  ramblingly  across  one  another, 
but  all  pruned  to  some  regular  order,  so  as  the  main  bearers,  or  ge- 
neral branches  and  shoots,  stand  six  or  eight  inches  distance  at  the 
extremities  ;  and  generally,  either  keep  the  middle  somewhat  hol- 
low, or,  if  permitted  to  run  up  full  in  the  heart,  keep  it  thin  of 
branches,  as  above  advised  ;  so  that  you  will  now  prune  out  any 
irregularities,  Sec.  such  as  casual  crowding  cross-placed  wood,  and 
any  worn  out  or  naked  old  branches,  retaining  young  shoots,  where 
necessary,  to  supply  their  place  ;  and  cut  out  all  the  superabundant 
lateral  shoots  of  last  summer,  close  to  the  old  wood,  only  retaining 
here  and  there  a  good  one  in  vacancies,  or  occasionally  towards  the 
lower  parts,  to  be  advancing  to  a  bearing  state,  to  supply  the  place 
of  casual  worn  out  bearers ;  and  generally  leave,  where  practicable, 
a  terminating  or  leading  shoot  to  each  main  branch,  either  such  as 
is  placed  naturally  at  or  near  the  end  of  the  branch  ;  or,  occasion- 
ally, where  any  branch  is  too  long  or  rambling,  prune  it  down  to 
some  convenient  lateral  shoot,  &c.  to  remain  for  a  terminal  leader ; 
and,  in  both  cases,  generally  leave  but  one  terminal  to  each  branch  ; 
and  all  those  shoots  now  retained,  both  lateral  and  terminal,  should 
either  be  mostly  left  entire,  and  only  shorten  long  stragglers,  and 
very  bending  and  reclining  growths,  occasionally ;  or,  at  least  by  no 
means  shorten  the  shoots  of  these  trees  too  much  ;  for  by  cutting 
them  very  short,  they  are  made  to  produce  a  deal  of  wood  and  but 
small  fruit ;  and  being  so  full  of  wood,  as  to  exclude  the  sun  and 
free  air  in  summer,  the  fruit  cannot  ripen  well ;  and  it  likewise 
renders  it  troublesome  to  get  at  the  fruit  when  fit  to  gather.  Never 
clip  the  trees  with  garden  shears,  as  is  the  practice  of  some  ignorant 
persons. 

Currant  bushes  should  likewise  be  kept  thin  and  regular,  not 
suffering  the  branches  to  run  promiscuously  across  each  other  ;  for 
when  suffered  to  grow  so  irregular  and  crowding,  they  produce  but 
small  fruit ;  and  the  great  thicket  of  branches  excluding  the  essen- 
tial benefit  of  the  sun,  the  berries  will  not  ripen  freely  and  regu- 
lar, with  a  good  flavour  ;  observing  therefore  to  keep  the  general 
branches  thin,  about  six  or  eight  inches  asunder  ;  in  which,  if  any 
are  too  crowded  or  over-abundant,  prune  out  the  most  irregular  ; 
also  any  cross-placed  branches,  and  casual  worn  out  old  bearers,  to- 
gether with  all  the  irregular-placed  and  superabundant  young  shoots 
of  last  summer,  preserving  only  occasional  supplies  of  the  most 
regular  ones  in  vacancies,  and  a  leading  one  at  the  termination  of 
each  branch,  agreeable  to  the  rules  exhibited  above  in  pruning  the 
gooseberry  bushes  ;  arid  the  general  upper  shoots  may  be  mostly 
shortened  more  or  less,  where  required  to  keep  the  head  to  a  mo- 
derate extent,  and  a  compact  handsome  growth. 

Observe  in  priming  young  gooseberry  and  currant  bushes,  let 
those  designed  for  standards  be  pruned  to  a  clean  single  stem,  eight? 


26  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  [JAN. 

ten,  or  twelve  inches  ;  and  being  careful  to  retain  a  requisite  supply 
of  the  best  young  shoots  properly  situated  above,  to  form  the  head 
accordingly,  cut  out  the  irregular  and  ill-placed  ;  and  the  retained 
proper  shoots  may  in  some  be  moderately  shortened,  especially  such 
as  run  away  straggling  from  the  rest ;  and  any  proper  shoots  ad- 
vancing below,  may  be  permitted  to  remain  entire  till  advanced 
equal  with  the  others  above,  &c.  that  the  whole  may  come  on  as 
equally  as  possible,  to  form  a  regular  head. 

Currants  and  gooseberries  trained  against  walls,  palings,  trellis's, 
Sec.  should  also  have  a  necessary  pruning  and  regulation  in  the  ge- 
neral branches,  or  as  may  be  required,  cutting  out  the  superabun- 
dant and  irregular-placed  shoots  of  last  summer,  or  any  casual  too 
crowding  and  disorderly  growing  older  branches,  or  such  as  appear 
unfruitful,  or  any  of  a  worn  out  or  decayed  state,  and  all  dead  wood ; 
retaining  young  shoots  advancing  from  below,  and  in  the  most  vacant 
parts,  shortened  more  or  less,  or  left  entire,  according  to  room  for 
extending  them  ;  and  train  the  general  branches,  &c.  three  or  four, 
to  five  or  six  inches  distance.  For  more  particulars..~see  October, 

fig  Trees. 

Fig-tree  priming  is  advised  to  be  deferred  till  March  or  April) 
where,  see  the  method  explained. 

Protecting  the  Roots  of  new-planted  Trees, 

If  the  weather  should  now  prove  severe,  it  will  be  proper  to  pro* 
tee*  the  roots  of  new-planted  fruit-trees  from  being  hurt  by  the 
frost,  by  laying  mulch,  or  long  dung  litter,  on  the  surface  of  the 
ground,  particularly,  the  choicest  of  the  stone-fruit  kinds  ;  as  peaches, 
r-eciarines,  apricots,  -and  any  principal  sorts  of  cherries  and  plums. 

Raspberries. 

If  you  have  neglected  to  afford  the  protection  directed  m  Novem* 
ber,  to  your  Antwerp.  Raspberries,  you  should  no  longer  omit  it ; 
especially  in  those  parts  of  the  Union  where  severe  winter  frosts 
prevail.  As  to  priming  and  planting  the  various  kinds,  when  not 
done  in  October,  or  November,  it  will  be  better  to  defer  this  busi- 
ness till  the  latter  end  of  February,  or  beginning  of  March  ;  except 
in  such  of  the  states  as  the  severity  of  the  frost  does  not  interrupt 
the  tillage  of  the  ground  during  winter ;  in  which,  you  can  perform 
this  business  now  with  safety,  agreeably  to  the  directions  given  in 
October. 

Forcing  early  Strawberries. 

Now  is  a  proper  time,  about  the  latter  end  of  this  month,  to  be- 
gin to  make  a  hot-bed  to  raise  a  few  early  strawberries  :  those 
which  are  planted  now  in  a  hot-bed  will  produce  fruit  fit  to  gather 
in  March  or  April. 


JAN.]  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  27 

About  the  middle  or  end  of  this  month,  provide  for  that  purpose 
as  much  new  horse-dung  as  will  make  a  hot-bed  about  four  feet 
high,  for  one  or  more  three-light  frames. 

Let  the  dung  be  thrown  in  a  heap,  and  let  it  lie  about  eight  or 
ten  days :  in  that  time  it  will  be  in  good  condition  to  make  the 
hot-bed. 

But  in  this  business,  a  tan-bark  hot-bed,  made  in  a  bark-pit  de- 
fended with  a  proper  frame  and  glasses,  would  generally  be  more 
successful  in  fruiting  these  plants  early. 

But,  previous  to  this,  there  should  be  a  proper  quantity  of  straw- 
berry-plants potted,  ready  to  place  on  the  said  hot-bed,  as  directed 
in  September. 

Having,  however,  prepared  the  dung  for  the  hot-bed,  make  it  for 
one  or  more  frames,  about  three  feet  high,  and  directly  set  on  the 
frame  and  lights,  to  protect  it  from  wet,  and  draw  up  the  heat  soon- 
er :  and  when  the  violent  heat  is  over,  lay  therein  either  some  dry 
light  earth,  or  some  waste  tanner's  bark  of  a  decayed  bark -bed,  four 
or  five  inches  thick  ;  then  bring  in  the  plants  and  plunge  the  pots 
into  the  earth  or  tan,  up  to  the  rims,  and  close  together  as  can  be, 
filling  up  also  all  the  interstices  between  with  earth,  &c. 

When  all  the  pots  are  plunged,  put  on  the  glasses,  and  keep 
them  close  till  the  steam  arises  in  the  bed,  when  it  will  be  necessary 
to  raise  them  a  little  behind,  to  let  the  steam  pass  oft'. 

When  the  plants  begin  to  push,  let  them  have  air  at  all  opportu- 
nities, when  the  weather  is  favourable;  for  if  kept  too  close,  they 
•will  draw  up  weak,  and  not  blossom  Well,  and  the  blossoms  would 
drop  off,  without  being  succeeded  by  fruit :  you  should  frequently 
refresh  them  with  a  little  water,  and  cover  the  glasses  every  night 
with  mats,  and  support  the  heat  of  the  bed  by  linings  of  hot  dung. 

N.  B.  In  forcing  strawberries,  the  plants  may  be  taken  up  out  of 
the  natural  ground  with  balls  of  earth,  if  not  prevented  by  too  hard 
a  frost,  and  placed  immediately  in  the  earth  of  the  hot-bed  without 
potting  them.  However,  when  it  is  intended  to  force  strawberries, 
either  in  a  common  hot-bed,  or  in  the  hot-house,  it  would  be  the 
best  method  to  plant  some  bearing  plants  in  pots,  in  September  or 
October,  and  so  place  the  pots  close  together,  in  a  garden  frame, 
till  the  time  they  are  to  be  placed  in  the  hot-bed. 

But  where  there  is  the  convenience  of  a  pine-apple  stove,  or  any 
kind  of  fruit  forcing-house,  or  hot-wall,  Sec.  may  raise  plenty  of  early 
strawberries  in  great  perfection,  with  but  very  little  trouble  :  hav- 
ing some  bearing  plants  ready  in  pots,  place  them  in  the  hot-house, 
any  where  near  the  glasses,  giving  frequent  light  waterings  j  they 
will  fruit  early  in  great  abundance. 

Forcing  Fruit-Trees,  for  early  Fruit, 

Where  there  is  the  accommodation  of  hot-walls,  or  forcing- 
houses,  furnished  with  fruit  trees  for  producing  early  fruits,  as  cher- 
ries, peaches,  apricots,  Sec.  may  now  begin  to  prepare  for  that  bu- 
siness, by  shutting  all  the  glasses  close,  and  about  the  middle,  or 
towards  the  latter  end  of  the  nurnth,  begin  to  make  the  fires  ;  or  in 


28  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  [JAN. 

vineries  the  beginning  of  the  month :  and  in  these  forcing  depart- 
ments, where  there  is  a  pit  in  which  to  make  a  hot-bed  of  tanner's 
bark,  or  hot  horse-dung,  make  the  hot-bed  first,  and  in  a  fortnight 
after  let  the  fires  be  continued  every  night.. ..See  the  Fruit  Garden 
for  next  month. 

Forcing  Frames. 

The  great  convenience  of  forcing-frames,  either  to  force  fruits, 
or  flowers,  into  early  perfection,  or  to  preserve  during  winter,  va- 
rious kinds  of  exotic  plants  ;  may  induce  persons  of  taste,  to  go  to 
the  expence  of  erecting  such ;  to  whom,  the  following  descriptions 
may  not  be  uninteresting. 

A  forcing-frame  is  a  sort  of  glass-case,  or  light  building,  fronted 
with  glass  frames,  in  which  to  force  flowers  and  fruits  to  early  per- 
fection, by  aid  of  artificial  heat,  either  of  dung,  tanner's  bark,  or 
actual  fire. 

The  general  acceptation  or  meaning  of  a  forcing-frame  is,  a  fixed 
erection  full  to  the  south  sun  ;  the  length  may  be  from  ten  to  fifty 
or  one  hundred  feet ;  the  width  from  five  to  fifteen,  and  from  five 
to  ten  feet  high ;  having  an  upright  back  wall,  of  wood  or  brick  ; 
and  a  front  of  glass  work,  made  sometimes  in  one  continued  range 
of  slope,  from  near  the  ground  in  front,  to  the  top  of  the  back  wall ; 
and  sometimes  with  upright  glass  work,  head  high,  ranging  imme- 
diately along  the  front,  and  from  the  top  of  which  a  glass  roof  is 
carried  to  the  top  of  the  back  or  main  wall ;  either  of  which  may  be 
for  general  use,  for  the  reception  of  various  sorts  of  flower-plants, 
small  flowering  shrubs,  esculents,  and  dwarf  fruit-trees,  Sec.  occa- 
sionally, to  force  into  bloom  or  fruit,  in  winter,  or  early  in  spring 
and  summer  ;  whereby,  many  sorts  of  the  more  curious  flowers  and 
fruits  may  be  obtained  some  months  before  their  natural  season, 
which  will  be  a  great  curiosity,  and  which  is  effected,  as  aforesaid, 
by  aid  of  dung,  bark,  or  fire  heat ;  the  first,  (dung  heat)  both  by  ap- 
plying the  dung  principally  against  the  outside  of  the  back  wall,  and 
by  forming  it  into  a  bed  internally ;  the  second,  (bark  heat)  by  form" 
ing  it  into  a  bed,  in  a  pit  withinside  ;  and  the  third,  (fire  heat)  by 
having  several  returns  of  flues  against  the  inside  of  the  back  wall, 
and  that  of  the  front  and  both  ends,  for  the  heat  to  pass  along ;  each 
of  which  are  hereafter  described :  for  these  kind  of  frames  are  of 
different  construction,  according  to  the  sorts  of  plants  chiefly  in- 
tended to  be  forced  ;  and  the  materials  of  heat,  as  dung,  bark,  or 
fuel,  most  convenient  to  be  obtained  for  forcing  them ;  so  that  the 
construction  of  each  kind  of  frame  is  separately  explained. 

These  frames  may  be  employed  to  advantage  in  the  vicinity  of 
large  towns,  for  forcing  various  plants  early  for  market,  by  the  as- 
sistance of  which  you  will  have  for  sale,  in  February,  March  and  April, 
various  sorts  of  flowers,  fruits,  and  esculents,  that  would  not  in  their 
natural  state  of  growth  have  appeared  till  May,  June  or  July. 

But,  for  private  use,  where  there  is  a  roomy  pine-apple  stove,  it 
may  also  be  used  occasionally,  for  forcing  many  sorts  of  plants, 
flowers,  and  some  sorts  of  fruits,  with  equal  success,  sufficient  for 
the  supply  of  a  family. 


JAN.]  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  29 

However,  where  a  considerable  supply  is  required,  a  forcing- 
frame,  distinct  from  the  pine-stove,  would  be  more  convenient. 

In  either  of  these  departments  may  be  introduced  for  forcing, 
pots  of  strawberries,  kidney-beans,  roses,  honeysuckles,  jasmines, 
and  any  other  flowering  shrubs ;  likewise  carnations,  pinks,  sweet- 
williams,  wall-flowers,  stock-gilliflowers,  narcissuses,  jonquils,  and 
early  dwarf  tulips,  and  any  other  desirable  flower-plants  or  roots, 
that  may  be  required  early  for  curiosity ;  also  several  kinds  of  curious 
annuals,  and  other  rare  plants.  You  may  likewise  have  several  sorts 
of  dwarf  fruit-trees,  as  early  May,  and  May -duke  cherries,  peaches, 
nectarines,  apricots,  figs,  grapes,  gooseberries,  currants,  raspber- 
ries, &c. 

The  general  construction  of  cash  sort  of  these  frames,  is  explained 
under  separate  heads,  according  to  the  materials  of  heat  used  in 
forcing  them,  viz.  by  dung-heat,  bark-bed-heat,  aud  by  fire-heat. 

By  Dung-heat. ...This  is  not  only  the  most  simple  and  cheapest 
kind  of  forcing-frame  in  its  construction,  but  also  considerably  the 
cheapest  in  working,  with  respect  to  the  article  heat,  as  it  may 
be  forced  effectually  by  substantial  linings  of  hot  dung  against  the 
back  and  ends. 

This  frame  is  formed  with  an  upright  back  and  ends  of  pine 
planking,  and  a  sloping  front  of  movable  glass-lights ;  the  length 
may  be  ten,  twenty,  or  thirty  feet,  or  more ;  the  width,  from  three 
to  five,  and  five  or  six  high :  the  frame  work  should  be  of  two  inch 
pine  planking,  tongued,  and  closely  joined,  that  no  steam  from  the 
dung  may  penetrate  into  the  frame  ;  raised  five,  six,  or  seven  feet 
high  behind,  and  but  ten  or  twelve  inches  high  in  front,  raising 
both  ends  answerable  to  the  front  and  back  ;  the  glass-work  to  range, 
from  the  upright  in  front,  sloping  upward  towards  the  back  wall, 
to  about  a  foot  width  at  top,  there  resting  the  ends  upon  proper 
frame  work  of  wood  ;  and  bars  or  bearers,  three  inches  width,  must 
range  sloping  foom  the  back  to  front,  for  the  support  of  the  lights, 
as  in  common  hot -bed  frames,  and  the  top  of  all  to  be  boarded  wind 
and  water  tight ;  within-side  may  be  two  or  three  ranges  of  narrow 
shelves  along  the  back  and  ends,  for  pots  of  small  plants,  and  the 
bottom  levelled,  on  which  to  place  pots  of  larger  kinds  ;  or  you  may 
have  shelves  rising  one  behind  another,  quite  from  the  front  half 
way  up  the  back,  so  may  place  the  lowest  plants  in  front,  the 
others  in  order  behind  them,  rising  gradually  to  the  tallest  in  the 
back  row. 

From  the  above  general  sketch,  you  will  easily  form  an  idea  of 
the  proper  construction  of  a  dung-heat  forcing-frame ;  which  you 
may  improve  as  you  shall  see  convenient. 

This  kind  of  frame  may  be  used  with  good  success  where  dung 
is  plenty,  and  easily  obtained  ;  particularly  for  forcing  roses,  or  any 
other  small  flowering  plants,  whose  flowers  have  merit  in  beauty 
or  fragrance:.... you  may  also  try  pots  of  dwarf-cherries,  peaches, 
8cc.  also  pots  of  gooseberries,  currants,  and  strawberries,  carnations, 
pinks,  and  the  like ;  having  all  the  sorts  in  pots  separately,  and  iu 
which  they  are  to  be  placed  in  the  frame. 


30  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  [!AN 

The  season  to  begin  to  work  this  frame  is  January  and  February, 
and  may  be  continued  occasionally  till  May  ;  but  for  any  kind  of  fruit 
trees,  the  beginning  of  February  is  time  enough,  though  those 
plants  of  any  kind  that  are  designed  to  be  forced,  may  be  placed  in 
the  frame  a  month  or  two  before  forcing  time,  to  be  occasionally 
protected  with  the  glasses  in  hard  frosts ;  but  at  other  times,  let 
them  enjoy  the  full  air  till  you  begin  forcing. 

The  method  of  working  this  frame  is  thus:  after  having  placed 
the  pots  of  plants  in  regular  order,  the  tallest  behind,  and  the  lowest 
in  front,  &c.  then  put  on  the  lights,  and  having  sufficient  quantity 
of  fresh  stable-dung,  full  of  heat,  prepared  as  for  common  clung 
hot-beds,  let  it  be  piled  up  close  against  the  outside  of  the 
back  and  ends  a  yard  wide  at  bottom,  drawing  it  gradually 
into  a  foot  width  at  the  top  of  the  frame,  finishing  it  some- 
what sloping,  to  throw  off  wet ;  observing,  that  according  as  the 
dung  settles  or  sinks  down,  a  fresh  supply  must  be  added  at  the  top, 
to  maintain  the  lining  to  the  full  height  of  the  frame. 

This  lining  will  effectually  throw  in  a  fine  growing  heat,  and 
soon  set  all  the  plants  in  motion ;  observing  to  give  air  in  the  mid- 
dle of  fine  days,  by  sliding  one  or  more  of  the  lights  a  little  down  ; 
especially  when  the  plants  begin  to  push  ;  give  also  moderate  wa- 
tering occasionally  in  mild  sunny  weather,  and  cover  the  glasses  in 
cold  nights  with  mats. 

In  three  or  four  weeks,  when  the  heat  begins  to  decrease  considera- 
bly, it  must  be  renewed,  either  by  entire  fresh  dung,  or  if  new  dung  is 
scarce,  by  shaking  up  the  old,  taking  the  worst  away,  and  mix  the 
remainder  with  a  due  quantity  of  new,  working  the  whole  again  in 
a  pile  close  against  the  back  and  ends  as  before,  which  work  must 
be  repeated  every  three  weeks  or  month,  or  as  often  as  you  shall 
see  occasion  ;  for  the  heat  must  be  constatly  preserved  to  a  regular 
brisk  temperature. 

A  frame  of  the  above  construction  may  be  appropriated  entirely 
for  fruit  trees,  planting  them  in  a  border  prepared  within  the  frame 
against  the  back  part,  and  trained  in  the  manner  of  wall-trees  to  a 
trillis,  ranged  five  or  six  inches  from  the  back  erection ;  in  which 
may  be  planted  early  dwarf-cherries,  peaches,  nectarines,  apricots, 
grapes*  figs,  currants,  8cc.  so  may  be  worked  by  dung-heat  against 
the  back  of  the  frame  as  above  directed  ;  beginning  in  February, 
and  continuing  the  glasses  on,  as  well  as  support  the  dung-heat 
until  May ;  and  there  is  no  doubt,  with  good  management,  but  that 
the  different  sorts  of  fruit  may  be  brought  to  perfection  early. 

But  a  dung-heat  Forcing  Frame  may  be  constructed  of  more  ca- 
pacious dimensions,  to  admit  of  making  a  substantial  hot-bed  of 
dung  internally,  both  to  produce  an  increased  degree  of  heat,  and 
wherein  to  plunge  pots  of  several  sorts  of  flowering  and  esculent 
plants  to  bring  them  forward  in  growth,  being  assisted  also  with  a 
lining  of  hot  dung  applied  to  the  exterior  of  the  back  part  of  the 
Frame,  as  explained  in  the  foregoing :  and  for  the  internal  hot-bed 
should  formabotom  pit  of  proper  width,  length,  and  depth,  making 
the  bed  therein  a  yard  depth  of  good  hot  dung,  covering  the  top 


JAN.]  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  31 

with  light  dry  earth,  or  old,  or  new  tan-bark,  six  or  eight  inches 
thick,  in  which  to  plunge  the  pots  of  flowers,  or  those  of  early- 
esculents,  such  as  kidney-beans,  peas,  srawberries,  sallading,  &c. 

By  Bark-bed  heat. ...This  kind  of  forcing  frame,  or  rather  forcing, 
house,  is  worked  by  aid  of  a  tanner's  bark  hot-bed,  formed  in  a 
pit  within-side  the  whole  length. 

This  frame  may  be  formed  either  of  wood  or  brick -work,  and 
fronted,  &c.  with  sashes  of  glass  like  the  former ;  the  length  may 
be  ten,  twenty,  or  thirty  feet,  or  more  ;  eight  or  ten  wide,  and  six  or 
eight  high  :  and  may  be  constructed  either  nearly  like  the  dung- 
heat  frame,  six  or  eight  feet  high  behind,  and  one  in  front,  the  ends 
conformable,  and  sloping  frames  of  glass-work  raised  from  the 
front,  sloping  either  quite  to  the  top  of  the  back-wall,  or  to  incline 
only  about  one  half  towards  that  part,  meeting  a  covered  roof  at  top, 
half  way,  which  should  be  raised  high  enough  in  front  to  throw  the 
water  off  behind,  as  well  as  to  admit  as  much  sun  as  possible  to 
every  part  of  the  frame ;  or  it  may  be  constructed  with  an  upright 
front  of  glass,  head  high,  and  a  slo'ping  roof  of  glass  work,  ranging 
from  the  upright  front  to  the  top  of  the  back  wall,  which  is  rather 
the  most  eligible  form,  both  for  convenience  and  benefit  of  the 
plants ;  either  of  which  constructions  may  be  erected  detached,  or 
against  a  south  wall  already  built,  which  will  serve  for  the  back, 
and  save  some  expence  ;  the  ends  may  either  be  of  wood  or  brick, 
and  the  glass-work  in  every  part  should  be  made  to  move  on  and  ofi% 
as  well  as  to  slide  backward  and  forward  to  give  air,  and  to  do  other 
necessary  work ;  and  at  one  end,  near  the  back  wall,  may  be  a  door 
to  enter  occasionally  ;  and  within-side  must  be  a  pit  for  the  bark- 
bed,  three  feet  deep,  part  sunk,  and  the  greater  part  raised,  conti- 
nued the  whole  length  and  width,  except  about  a  foot  and  half  alley 
to  go  in  to  perform  the  necessary  culture,  as  well  as  to  view  and 
gather  the  produce  of  the  different  plants. 

The  pit  within  is  to  be  filled  with  new  tan  any  time  in  winter  or 
spring,  you  intend  to  begin  forcing,  though  January  is  soon  enough1, 
and  the  beginninng  of  February  is  not  too  late  ;  the  bark  will  sup- 
port a  growing  heat  three  months,  and  if  then  stirred  up  to  the  bot- 
tom, will  renew  its  heat,  and  continue  it  two  months  longer. 

In  this  frame  may  plunge  in  the  bark-bed  pots  of  roses,  or  any 
other  choice  flowering  shrubs  you  would  force  into  an  early  bloom  ; 
likewise  may  place  pots  of  strawberries  towards  the  front  and  top 
glasses ;  and  pots  of  kidney-beans  and  early  dwarf  peas  may  be  placed 
in  any  part  of  the  frame ;  also  pots  of  dwarf  fruit-trees,  before  men- 
tioned, pots  of  double  pinks,  carnations,  and  any  other  moderate- 
growing  fibrous-rooted  perennials,  as  well  as  any  sorts  of  bul- 
bous or  tuberous-rooted  flowers,  as  narcissuses,  jonquils,  tulips, 
anemones,  ranunculuses,  hyacinths,  and  various  other  sorts. 

The  heat  of  the  bark-bed  will  effectually  warm  the  earth  and  in- 
ternal air  sufficiently  to  forward  any  sorts  of  hardy  flowers  and 
fruits  to  perfection  at  an  early  season ;  observing,  that,  although 
they  do  not  always  flower  and  fruit  so  abundantly  as  in  the  full 
ground,  yet,  if  there  are  but  a  few  of  any  sort,  a  month  or  two  before 
their  natural  season,  they,  if  for  sale,  will  sufficiently  pay  ;  and  if 


32  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  [JAN, 

for  private  use,  they  will  always  be  acceptable  as  a  rarity  and  cu- 
riosity in  the  family. 

Fresh  air  must  be  admitted  in  fine  sunny  days  at  all  opportuni- 
ties, by  sliding  some  of  the  glasses  more  or  less  open,  keeping 
them  close  at  night ;  and  in  very  severe  weather,  the  glasses  must 
be  covered  with  mats,  or  closed  with  sliding  shutters  made  for  that 
purpose,  particularly  at  night ;  which  trouble  might  be  avoided  if 
there  was  a  fire-flue,  by  which,  heat  could  be  introduced  to  counter- 
act the  extreme  rigour  of  the  frost,  when  necessity  required. 

When  the  heat  of  the  bark  declines  considerably,  do  not  omit 
forking  it  over  to  the  bottom  which  will  revive  the  decaying  heat 
six  or  eight  weeks  longer. 

A  bark-heat  forcing-frame,  nearly  of  the  above  dimensions,  might 
be  contrived  entirely  for  forcing  fruit-trees,  having  a  border  within- 
side  along  the  back  wall,  three  or  four  feet  wide  :  there  plant  young 
bearing  dwarf  fruit-trees,  of  any  sorts  before  mentioned,  at  six  or 
eight  feet  distance,  in  the  manner  of  wall  or  espalier  trees,  training 
them  also  in  the  same  manner  as  directed  for  the  respective  sorts  in 
their  natural  state  of  growth.  The  bark-pit  should  here  be  almost 
half  sunk ;  and  in  the  beginning  of  February  fill  the  pit  with  new 
tan -bark,  which  will  soon  set  the  trees  into  bloom,  and  will  ripen 
their  fruit  early. 

But  the  most  eligible  general  forcing-frame  for  various  sorts  of 
plants,  is  one  of  the  above  mentioned  construction,  having  also  flues 
for  fire-heat ;  the  walls  must  be  of  brick-work,  having  two  or  three 
returns  of  flues  formed  of  the  same  materials,  running  the  whole 
length  of  the  back  wall  within,  and  one  or  two  along  the  front  and 
ends,  by  which  to  convey  fire-heat  occasionally  in  severe  frosts,  cold 
nights,  and  in  all  >ery  cold  and  intemperate  weather  ;  which  will  be 
a  great  improvement  in  very  early  forcing,  so  that  this  kind  of 
frame  will  be  nearly  of  the  plan  of  a  stove  or  hot-house. 

In  default,  however,  of  any  of  the  above  kinds  of  bark-heat  forc- 
ing-frames, one  might  be  effected  by  a  common  bark-pit,  made  in 
any  dry  sheltered  situation,  with  a  brick,  wall,  to  any  convenient 
size,  and  covered  with  glass-lights.  This  pit  is  to  be  principally 
above  ground  and  filled  with  good  fresh  tan  to  the  depth  of  four 
feet,  in  which  you  may  plunge  pots  of  roses,  or  any  other  shrubs  ; 
any  sort  of  low  herbaceous  flowering  plants,  fibrous,  or  bulbous 
rooted ;  kidney-beans,  strawberries,  &c.  observing  however,  that  in 
severe  frost,  the  wall  of  this  pit  must  be  protected  by  hot-dung, 
leaves,  or  straw,  in  order  to  prevent  the  frost  penetrating  into  the 
bed,  and  it  must  be  carefully  covered  with  mats  at  night,  and 
even  in  the  day  time  in  very  severe  weather. 

-By  Fire-heat. ...This  kind  of  forcing  frame  is  worked  by  actual 
fire,  burned  in  a  furnace  behind  at  one  end  or  middle,  from  thence 
communicating  the  heat  by  internal  flues  or  funnels,  running  the 
whole  length  of  the  back  wall  in  three  returns,  one  above  another, 
and  continued  in  a  flue  round  the  front,  and  the  frame  thus  con- 
structed, is  often  employed  for  ripening  several  of  the  more  valua- 
ble fruit-trees  at  an  early  season ;  or  for  forwarding  such  to  perfec- 
tion, which  do  not  ripen  freely  without  artificial  aid. 


JAN.}  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  33 

This  frame,  or  forcing  house,  must  be  formed  of  brick-work,  at 
least  the  back  or  main  wall,  for  the  convenience  of  having  fire  and 
flues,  and  the  whole  front,  &c.  must  be  glass,  like  the  other  sorts  ; 
the  length  may  be  from  twenty  to  forty  feet,  or  more,  though  one 
fire  will  not  warm  more  than  that  length  ;  the  width  may  be  from 
five  or  six,  to  twelve  or  fifteen  feet,  and  heigh  eight  or  ten.  It  may 
be  contrived  either  of  moderate  width  for  one  row  of  trees  only, 
to  range  against  the  back  wall  ;  or  may  be  capacious  enough  to  have 
a  range  of  trained  wall-trees  behind,  as  just  mentioned,  and  some 
small  half  standards,  ranging  also  from  the  back  to  the  front. 

If  it  is  therefore  intended  to  have  a  narrow  Frame  for  only  a  row 
of  trained  trees  behind,  the  width  from  four  to  five  or  six  feet  is 
sufficient,  having  the  back  or  main  wall  formed  of  brick  or  stone, 
as  aforesaid,  eight  or  ten  feet  high,  with  several  flues  withinside, 
returned  over  each  other,  running  the  whole  length  of  the  wall  ; 
in  the  front  must  be  a  low  wall  a  foot  high,  on  which  to  lay  a  plate 
of  timber,  and  from  which,  are  ranged  glass  frames  or  lights  in  one 
continued  slope  to  the  top  of  the  back  wall,  there  received  into  pro- 
per frame-work  ;  but  for  the  greater  convenience,  the  lights  may 
be  in  two  tiers  or  ranges,  an  under  and  upper  tier,  the  upper  range 
made  to  slide  up  and  down  over  the  others,  but  so  as  all  the  glass^ 
work  can  be  moved  away  occasionally,  to  admit  the  full  air  to  the 
trees  after  the  work  of  forcing  ;  the  whole  bottom-space  within 
this  frame  must  be  of  good  loamy  earth,  or  any  good  garden 
mould,  two  spades  deep,  which  must  be  dug  or  trenched  in  the  com* 
mon  way  ;  then  plant  a  range  of  trees  behind,  towards  the  wall, 
and  two  or  three  yards  asunder,  erecting  a  trellis  behind  them, 
upon  which  to  train  the  branches  as  against  a  wall  or  espalier ;  be- 
sides these  trees,  there  may  be  other  inferior  plants  set  in  the  bor- 
der or  in  pots,  in  front  of  the  trees,  as  strawberries,  dwarf  kidney- 
beans,  dwarf  peas,  Sec.  dwarf  roses,  or  the  like,  that  Will  not  rise 
high  enough  to  shade  the  fruit-trees  in  the  back  range. 

A  frame  of  this  construction,  forty  feet  long,  may  be  worked  by 
one  fire  ;  but  if  longer,  two  furnaces  for  fires  will  be  requisite. 

But  to  have  a  more  capacious  Frame  both  for  trained  trees  and' 
low  standards,  it  may  be  of  any  length  from  twenty  to  fifty  feet  or 
more,  but  must  be  ten  or  fifteen  feet  wide,  having  an  upright  back 
wall  of  brick  ten  feet  high,  with  flues  as  above  directed,  and  a  low 
wall  in  front  one  or  two  feet  high,  on  which  is  erected  upright  glass- 
work,  four  or  five  feet  perpendicular,  and  from  the  top  of  these,  a 
sloping  roof  of  glass  frames,  continued  to  the  top  of  the  back  wall, 
supported  upon  proper  bearers  three  feet,  or  three  feet  six  inches 
distance,  having  the  top  glasses  in  two  ranges,  an  under  and  upper 
range,  as  before  advised,  both  of  which,  and  those  of  the  upright  ia 
front,  made  to  slide,  and  move  away  occasionally  :  in  this  frame 
there  will  be  room  to  walk  under  the  glass-work  in  any  part,  and 
there  will  be  also  due  room  for  the  trees,  both  dwarfs  and  low  stand- 
ards ;  and  then  having  the  whole  ground-space  withinside  of  loamy, 
or  other  good  earth,  as  in  the  other  frame,  you  may  plant  your 
trees,  some  in  one  range  against  the  back  wall,  as  peaches,  necta- 
rines, apricots,  grapes,  figs,  &c.  six  or  eight  feet  asunder,  erecting 


34  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  [JAN. 

a  trellis,  for  training  them  upon  ;  and  in  front  of  these  may 
be  planted  rows  of  young  cherries,  both  in  small  standards,  half 
standards,  and  dwarfs  ;  the  full  standards  to  have  about  five  feet 
stems,  the  half  standards  three  or  four,  and  the  dwarfs,  one  or  two 
feet  stems  ;  each  sort,  both  trained  trees  and  standards,  to  be  plan- 
ted when  about  from  three  to  four  or  five  years  old,  as  soon  as  they 
acquire  a  bearing  state,  with  regular  heads  of  two  or  three  feet 
extent,  at  first  planting.  Having  procured  the  trees,  and  the  ground 
ready  for  their  reception,  may  then  plant  one  range  of  the  choicest 
sorts  as  before  noticed,  next  the  back  wall,  two  or  three  yards  asun- 
der, the  others  in  rows  from  back  to  front,  at  six  or  eight  feet  dis- 
tance, the  tallest  behind  and  the  lowest  in  front,  at  three  or  four  feet 
distance  in  each  row,  making  each  row  range  against  the  intervals 
of  the  trained  trees  behind  ;  or  if  they  are  all  standards  and  half 
standards,  there  will  be  more  room  for  several  sorts  of  smaller 
plants  under  them  ;  and  as  their  branches  will  be  nearer  the  top 
glasses,  it  may  be  of  particular  advantage  ;  and  in  the  intervals  may 
be  planted  some  low  currants,  gooseberries,  raspberries,  strawber- 
ries, dwarf-beans,  kidney-beans,  Sec.  But  a  frame  of  these  dimen- 
sions is  sometimes  planted  entirely  with  standards,  more  particu- 
larly cherries,  as  being  more  moderate  shooters  and  soonest  arrive 
to  a  bearing  state,  so  as  to  bear  any  tolerable  quantity  of  fruit  ; 
planting  them  five  or  six  feet  distance :  sometimes  standard  plums, 
apricots,  peaches,  and  nectarines  are  also  planted,  and  vines  to  train 
up  under  the  glasses. 

A  Frame  of  these  dimensions,  twenty-five  feet  long,  may  be 
worked  by  one  fire  ;  but  if  more  than  thirty  feet  in  length,  two 
furnaces  for  fires,  with  each  its  set  of  flues,  will  be  necessary. 

With  respect  to  the  age  of  the  trees  for  both  the  above  kinds  of 
fire-heat  forcing  frames,  they  should  be  from  three  to  four  or  five 
years  old,  with  regular  heads  of  branches,  two  or  three  feet  extent, 
and  just  arrived  at  a  tolerable  bearing  state  ;  no  very  vigorous  shoot- 
ers must  be  admitted,  but  such  only  as  assume  a  moderate  regular 
growth,  and  are  trained  in  the  nursery  until  they  have  acquired  a 
proper  size,  each  as  directed  under  its  respective  head,  whether  as 
wall  trees  or  standards  ;  they  are  to  be  transplanted  into  the  Frame 
in  October  or  November  to  remain  for  forcing  ;  but  should  be  per- 
mitted to  have  a  year  or  two's  growth  here  before  you  begin  forcing 
them,  that  they  may  be  firmly  rooted  ;  during  which  time  all  the 
glasses  should  be  entirely  away,  that  the  trees  may  have  the  full  air 
till  forcing  time  is  nearly  arrived  ;  or  may  occasionally  have  trained 
bearing  trees,  of  small  sizes,  in  pots,  if  they  have  been  in  good 
growth  for  one  season  at  least,  and  so  removed  in  their  said  pots 
into  the  frame  at  the  proper  season,  as  above. 

In  both  the  above  kinds  of  forcing  frames,  you  may  also  plant 
some  grape-vines  on  the  outside  of  the  front  glasses  in  the  full 
ground)  and  their  stems  trained  through  holes,  and  conduct  the 
shoots  along  up  the  inside  towards  the  glass-work  to  a  sort  of  slight 
trellis,  keeping  the  branches  quite  thin  ;  and  they  will  ripen  early 
fruit,  in  great  perfection. 


JAN.]  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN."  55 

The  season  for  beginning  to  make  the  fires  for  forcing  the  trees 
in  either  of  the  above  described  fire-heat  frames,  is  any  time  in  Ja- 
nuary, though  about  the  middle,  or  towards  the  latter  end  of  that 
month,  or  beginning  of  February,  is,  for  the  general  part,  rather  the 
most  successful  time  to  begin  the  general  forcing,  to  have  a  good 
crop  ;  for  if  the  trees  are  forced  very  early,  there  will  be  some  dan- 
ger of  their  miscarrying  ;  as,  if  they 'should  come  into  blossom, 
when  severe  weather  prevails,  that  air  cannot  be  freely  admitted  at 
intervals,  they  seldom  set  any  tolerable  crop  of  fruit  ;  therefore, 
by  beginning  to  make  the  fires  about  the  time  above  directed,  the 
trees  will  be  in  blossom  about  the  middle  of  February,  when  we 
may  expect  some  fine  sunny  days  for  the  admission  of  a  moderate 
portion  of  fresh  air,  which  is  essentially  necessary  to  promote  the 
natural  impregnation  of  the  fruit,  and  improve  its  free  growth  ;  for 
if  kept  too  close,  they  are  apt  to  drop  oft'  in  their  infant  state. 

The  fires  are  to  be  lighted  in  the  furnace  every  afternoon  about 
four  or  five  o'clock,  and  if  kept  burning  till  ten  or  twelve,  it  will  suf- 
ficiently heat  the  flues  to  warm  the  internal  air  of  the  house  till 
next  morning,  when,  if  very  cold,  frosty,  or  cloudy  damp  weather, 
a  moderate  fire  may  also  be  made  occasionally  ;  and  by  no  means 
force  the  trees  too  much,  for  a  moderate  warmth  will  prove  the 
most  successful ;  and  thus  continue  the  fires  occasionally  till  towards 
the  latter  end  of  April,  but  less  in  proportion  as  the  weather  grows 
warmer. 

Fresh  air  must  be  occasionally  admitted  in  fine  days,  by  sliding 
some  of  the  glasses  a  little  open,  and,  as  the  trees  advance  to  blos- 
som and  fruit,  the  days  grow  longer,  and  the  power  of  the  sun 
greater,  allow  a  greater  proportion  of  air  accordingly.  Likewise 
give  frequent  waterings  to  the  borders. 

Thus  your  trees  will  be  in  full  blossom  in  February,  and  some 
will  ripen  fruit  in  April,  particularly  cherries,  and  strawberries  ; 
you  may  also  expect  early  apricots,  peaches,  and  nectarines  in 
May,  and  plums  and  early  grapes  in  June. 

After  the  fruit  of  the  different  sorts  are  all  gathered,  the  glasses 
should  be  taken  entirely  away,  that  the  trees  may  have  the  full  air 
during  summer  ;  and  in  December  they  should  be  placed  upon  the 
frame  again,  ready  for  forcing  in  January. 

With  respect  to  pruning  the  trained  trees,  that  is  those  that  are 
trained  as  wall-trees  against  the  trellis,  &c.  they  are  to  be  pruned 
and  trained  every  summer  and  autumn,  each  sort  according  to  its 
kind,  as  other  wall  trees,  and  as  directed  under  all  their  respective 
articles ;  and  as  to  the  standards,  their  requisite  pruning  is  princi- 
pally in  autumn,  to  cut  out  any  irregular  growth,  and  thinning  out 
any  crowding  shoots,  for  the  branches  must  be  kept  thin  and  regular, 
clear  of  each  other,  six  or  eight  inches  distance  ;  and  any  stragglers 
which  extend  in  length  considerably,  should  be  reduced  to  order  ; 
and  as  the  branches  in  general  become  so  long,  as  to  press  against 
the  glasses,  or  spread  too  much,  they  should  also  be  reduced  a' little, 
to  preserve  them  within  due  compass,  observing  always,  when 
shortening  the  standards,  it  is  necessary  to  cut  to  a  bud  situated  on 
the  outside  of  the  shoot  or  branch,  making  the  cut  on  the  inside. 


36  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  [JAN. 

Every  autumn,  after  pruning  the  trees,  the  borders  must  be  dig- 
ged carefully  one  spade  deep. 

It  must  be  remarked,  that  the  trees  in  these  frames,  or  houses, 
if  annually  forced,  are  not  so  durable  nor  plentiful  bearers,  as  those 
in  the  full  air  j  therefore,  when  you  shall  see  any  become  weak, 
sickly,  or  bad  bearers,  others  should  be  ready  in  training,  or  pro- 
cured from  the  nurseries,  to  plant  in  their  stead  ;  and  in  this  no 
time  should  be  lost. 

But  to  continue  the  same  trees  more  effectually  in  health,  and  in 
a  bearing  state,  some  have  a  double  portion  of  walling  and  framing 
planted,  but  more  particularly  that  of  the  first  described  fire-heat 
frame,  which  is  sometimes  contrived  to  move  or  slide  along  from 
one  place  to  another,  for  one  frame-work  and  glasses  to  serve  two 
portions  of  walling,  so  that  being  alternately  worked,  one  part  one 
year,  the  other  the  year  after,  each  portion  of  trees  will  have  a 
year  of  rest  in  their  natural  growth,  and  will  succeed  each  other  in 
due  order  for  forcing,  whereby  the  health  and  vigour  of  the  trees 
will  be  better  supported,  and  each  year  a  greater  crop  of  fruit  may 
be  expected,  than  if  the  same  trees  were  successively  forced  every 
ysar. 


Hot-walls  are  ranges  of  brick  or  stone  walling,  fronted  with  glass- 
work,  inclosing  a  space  of  several  feet  width,  and  furnished  with  in- 
ternal fire-flues,  &c.  wholly  for  forcing  fruit-trees  to  early  produc- 
tion. 

These  hot-walls  or  fire-walls  generally  range  east  and  west,  to 
front  the  full  sun  ;  having  the  sunny  or  south-side  defended  with  a 
frame-work  of  glass  ;  the  whole  length  and  height  inclosing  a 
space,  cither  of  but  moderate  width,  four  or  five  to  six  or  eight  feet, 
for  one  row  of  trees  behind,  trained  in  the  wall-tree  order,  and  ex- 
tended twenty  or  thirty,  to  forty,  fifty,  or  a  hundred  feet  length  ;  or 
of  more  capacious  width  of  ten,  twelve,  to  fifteen  feet  and  moderate 
length,  in  the  forcing-house  manner,  to  admit  of  a  range  of  trained 
trees  behind,  and  others  of  lower  growth  forward  ;  and,  in  either  or 
both  of  which,  having  internal  flues  for  fire-heat  next  the  main 
wall,  and  continued  round  along  towards  the  front,  or  sometimes 
ranged  longitudinally  along  the  middle  space,  if  no  bark-pit  is  al- 
lotted in  that  part,  for  a  bark-bed,  &c.  as  some  of  these  departments, 
under  the  denomination  of  hot-walls,  have  the  front  inclosure  of 
glass-work,  of  sufficient  height  to  admit  of  forming  an  internal  pit, 
four,  to  five  or  six  feet  wide,  the  length  of  the  erection  ;  in  which 
to  make  a  bark-bed,  or  sometimes  a  dung  hot-bed,  or  occasionally 
dung  below,  and  tan-bark  above,  to  assist,  in  conjunction  with  the 
fire  heat  of  the  flues,  in  warming  the  internal  air  ;  and  each  depart- 
ment, in  either  method,  has  a  border  of  good  mellow,  loamy,  or 
other  substantial  fertile  earth,  of  proper  width  next  the  main 
wall,  in  which  to  plant  the  requisite  sorts  of  trees  ;  or,  where  no 
bark-bed,  the  whole  bottom  space  is  of  good  earth,  either  a  narrow 
inclosure  of  glass  of  four  to  five  or  six  feet,  to  have  only  a  range  of 
trees  next  the  wall,  the  trees  trained  as  wall-trees,  or  espaliers  ;  or 


JAN.]  THE  FRUIT  GARDEN.  37 

if  a  wider  compartment,  have  wall-trees  behind,  trained  to  the 
height  of  the  wail,  and  others  trained  in  lower  growth,  in  the  internal 
sT>ace  forward,  either  csftalier-ivays,  or  as  small  dwarf-standards,  or 
sometimes  as  horizontal  dwarfs. 

But  it  should  be  observed,  that  when  of  wide  dimensions  either 
to  admit  of  a  bark-pit,  or  having  the  whole  internal  bottom  space 
of  earth,  with  trees  against  the  wall,  and  others  planted  forward  be- 
tween these  and  the  glasses,  may  properly  be  considered  as  forcing 
houses. 

And  hot-walls  may  be  considered  principally  such  as  have  nar- 
rower inclosures  of  glass,  four  to  five  or  six  feet  width,  containing 
only  one  range  of  trees,  trained  towards  the  wall  upon  trellis- 
work,  if  a  range  of  flues  immediately  next  the  wall  ;  but  if  all  the 
flues  are  ranged  forward,  the  trees  can  be  trained  close  to  the  wall. 

But  as  the  hot-walls  and  forcing-houses  are  nearly  similar,  in 
their  construction,  use,  and  general  management,  to  forcing-frames 
explained  under  that  head,  shall  refer  to  the  said  article  for  the 
general  explanation. 

Vineries. 

Various  buildings  have  been  contrived,  to  effect  the  ripening  of 
the  more  choice  kinds  of  late  grapes,  which  cannot  be  effected  in 
the  open  ground,  as  likewise  to  force  the  earlier  sorts,  so  as  to  have 
them  fit  for  the  table  in  May,  June,  and  July.  The  constructions 
of  these  kinds  of  buildings  are  different,  though  all  answering 
the  same  purpose  :  some  are  constructed  with  flues  ranging  within 
the  wall  where  the  vines  are  trained  up ;  but  as  the  vines  would 
receive  more  heat  at  times  by  being  closer  to  the  wall  than  is  pro- 
per, a  lattice  work  is  generally  detached  therefrom,  to  which  the 
branches  are  trained,  and  the  whole  is  covered  with  a  range  of 
sloping  glass ;  but,  the  mare  common  method  is,  to  train  them 
under  the  sloping  glasses  of  the  hot-house,  or  other  similarly  con- 
structed stoves,  or  forcing-frames ;  in  such  places  the  vines  are 
generally  planted  close  to  the  outside,  and  introduced  through 
holes  contrived  for  the  purpose  in  the  upright  timbers  of  the  front- 
lights,  as  low  down  as  can  conveniently  be  done. 

In  some  vineries  the  vines  are  planted  near  the  front,  in  the 
inside,  and  trained  up  to  neat  trellis's  made  for  that  purpose  close 
under  the  roof  or  sloping  glasses. 

SOUTHERN    STATES. 

In  the  southern  states,  especially  such  of  them  as  have  not  se- 
vere winter  frosts,  you  may  plant  apple,  pear,  peach,  nectarine,  apricot, 
cherry,  and  plum  trees,  both  for  espaliers  and  standards  :  plant  also 
almonds,  quinces,  gooseberries,  currants,  raspberries,  and  every 
other  kind  of  hardy  fruit-bearing  trees  and  shrubs,  which  are  usual- 
ly planted  either  in  the  fruit-garden  or  orchard. 

You  may  also  prune  each  and  every  of  the  above  kinds,  according 
to  the  directions  given  in  this  month)  March,  and  October  ;  and  in 


38  THE  ORCHARD.  JAN.] 

the  two  last  months,  you  will  find  ample  instructions,  both  for  pre- 
paring the  ground,  and  planting  the  various  kinds  of  fruit-trees 
above  mentioned. 


THE  ORCHARD. 

THE  Orchard  is  a  department  consigned  entirely  to  the  growth  of 
standard  fruit-trees,  for  furnishing  a  large  supply  of  the  most  useful 
kinds  of  fruit ;  in  which  you  may  have  as  standards,  apple,  pear, 
plum,  cherry,  peach,  apricot,  quince,  almond,  and  nectarine  trees  ; 
also  mulberries,  filberts,  medlars,  and  berberries ;  Spanish  chesnuts, 
and  English  walnuts  ;  which  two  latter,  are  more  particularly  appli- 
cable for  the  boundaries  of  large  orchards,  in  which  they  will  screen 
the  other  trees,  from  impetuous  winds  and  cold  blasts,  all  of  which 
are  to  be  arranged  in  rows,  at  the  distances  directed  in  March  and 
October  ;  in  which  months  you  will  find  ample  directions  for  raising, 
propagating,  and  planting,  the  various  kinds  of  fruit-trees,  necessary 
for  all  the  departments. 

But  sometimes,  Orchards  consist  entirely  of  apple  trees,  particu- 
larly when  apples  are  wanted  in  large  quantities,  for  cyder,  or  whis- 
key-making ;  and  sometimes  whole  orchards  of  very  considerable 
extent,  of  peach  trees,  when  the  fruit  is  designed  for  distillation  ; 
likewise  entire  orchards  of  cherry  trees,  but  particularly  within  a 
moderate  distance  of  large  cities  and  towns,  where  sale  can  be  ob- 
tained for  the  fruit ;  pear  orchards  are  also  extensive  where  people 
are  in  the  habit  of  making  perry. 

A  general  orchard,  however,  composed  of  all  the  before  mention- 
ed fruit-trees,  should  consist  of  a  treble  or  more  proportion  of  apple 
and  peach  trees,  because  they  are  considerably  the  most  useful  fruits, 
particularly  the  former ;  as  they,  exclusive  of  their  use  in  distilling 
and  cyder-making,  may  be  continued  for  table  use,  in  the  different 
sorts,  the  whole  year  round. 

The  utility  of  a  general  Orchard,  or  Orchards,  both  for  private  use 
and  profit,  stored  with  the  various  sorts  of  fruit-trees,  must  be  very 
great ;  as  well  as  afford  infinite  pleasure  from  the  delightful  appear- 
ance it  makes  from  early  spring,  till  late  in  autumn  :  in  spring  the 
various  trees  in  blossom  are  highly  ornamental ;  in  summer  the 
pleasure  is  heightened,  by  observing  the  various  fruits  advancing  to 
perfection  ;  and  as  the  season  advances,  the  mature  growth  of  the 
different  sorts  arriving  to  perfection  in  regular  succession,  from  lYIay 
until  the  end  of  October,  must  afford  great  delight,  as  well  as  profit. 

But  the  misfortune  is,  that  too  frequently  after  orchards  are 
planted  and  fenced,  they  have  seldom  any  more  care  bestowed  upon 
them.  Boughs  are  suffered  to  hang  dangling  to  the  ground,  their 
heads  are  so  loaded  with  wood  as  to  be  almost  impervious  to  sun 
and  air,  and  they  are  left  to  be  exhausted  by  moss,  and  injured  by 
cattle,  &c. 

By  a  redundancy  of  wood,  the  roots  are  exhausted  unprofitably, 
the  bearing  wood  is  robbed  of  part  of  its  sustenance,  and  the  natural 


JAN.]  THE  ORCHARD,  39 

life  of  the  tree  unnecessarily  shortened ;  whilst  the  superfluous  wood 
endangers  the  tree,  by  giving  the  winds  an  additional  power  over  it, 
and  is  injurious  to  the  bearing  wood,  by  retaining  the  damps,  and 
preventing  a  due  circulation  of  air. 

The  outer  branches  only,  are  able  to  produce  fruit  properly  ;  every 
inner  and  underling  branch  ought  therefore  to  be  removed.  It  is 
common  to  see  fruit-trees  with  two  or  three  tiers  of  boughs 
pressing  so  hard  upon  one  another,  with  their  twigs  so  intimately 
interwoven,  that  a  small  bird  can  scarcely  creep  in  among  them. 
Trees  thus  neglected,  acquire,  from  want  of  due  ventilation,  a 
stinted  habit,  and  the  fruit  becomes  of  a  crude  inferior  quality. 

The  trees  are  very  often  almost  entirely  subdued  by  moss,  which 
kills  many,  and  injures  others  so  much,  that  they  are  only  an  incum- 
brance  to  the  ground,  and  a  disgrace  to  the  country.  This  evil 
may  easily  be  checked,  by  scraping  and  rubbing  off  the  moss  at 
this  season  of  the  year,  with  a  rounded  iron  scraper,  &c.  when  men 
have  little  else  to  employ  them ;  and  only  seek  work,  in  idle  expen- 
sive, and  unprofitable  amusements.  Draining  the  land,  if  too  re- 
tentive of  moisture,  will  sometimes  prevent  or  cure  moss :  or  dig- 
ging round  the  trees  on  the  approach  of  winter,  or  in  spring,  and 
bringing  fresh  mould,  or  the  scouring  of  ponds  and  roads,  or  the 
rubbish  of  old  walls,  well  prepared  and  pulverized,  and  laid  round 
them.  Whatever  contributes  to  the  health  of  the  tree,  will  cure, 
or  in  some  degree  mitigate,  this  and  other  diseases. 

The  above  considerations  ought  to  induce  to  an  examination  of 
your  standard  apple,  pear,  plum  and  cherry  trees,  See.  and  where 
found  necessary,  to  thin  their  branches,  scrape  and  rub  off  moss, 
cut  off  all  dead,  or  irregularly  placed  limbs  and  branches ;  and  also 
any  luxuriant  unfruitful  shoots,  and  such  branches  as  appear  to  be 
in  a  decaying  or  cankery  state  ;  all  of  which,  must  be  cut  off  close 
to  where  they  were  produced,  or  to  some  healthy  leading  branch, 
or  shoot  ;for  the  bark  cannot  grow  over  a  stumfi,  because  there  is  no 
power  to  draw  the  sap  that  way ;  for  which  reason,  always  cut  rather 
a  little  within  the  wood. 

Smooth  the  cut  parts,  and  if  the  amputations  are  large,  apply 
thereto,  a  light  covering  of  the  medicated  tar,  below  mentioned  ; 
which  is  to  be  laid  on  with  a  painting  brush  :  if  under  an  inch  in 
diameter,  it  is  scarcely  worth  while  to  go  to  that  trouble,  for  such 
when  well  pruned,  will  heal  and  cover  freely. 

Be  particular  to  use  a  saw  in  taking  off  all  the  limbs  and  branches 
that  are  too  large  for  the  knife,  and  smooth  the  cut  parts  with 
either  your  pruning  knife,  or  a  neat  draw-knife,  which  answers  better, 
for  large  amputations. 

The  medicated  tar,  is  composed  of  half  an  ounce  of  corrosive  sub- 
limate, reduced  to  a  fine  powder,  and  then  put  into  a  three  pint  earthen 
pipkin,  with  about  half  a  gill  of  gin,  or  other  spirit,  stirred  well 
together,  and  the  sublimate  thus  disolved.  The  pipkin  must  then 
be  filled  by  degrees  with  common  tar,  and  constantly  stirred  till  the 
mixture  is  intimately  blended.  This  quantity  will  be  sufficient  for 
two  hundred  trees.  Being  of  a  very  poisonous  nature,  it  should  not 
be  suffered  to  lie  carelessly  about  the  house.  The  sublimate  dis- 
solves better,  when  united  with  the  same  quantity  of  the  spirit  of 


40  THE  ORCHARD.  [JAN. 

hartshorn,  or  of  sal  ammoniac.  This  mixture  being  apt  to  run, 
consistency  may  be  given  it,  by  mixing  it  with  either  pounded  chalk, 
or  whiting. 

The  above  composition  will  be  found  eminently  useful,  as  no  worm 
of  any  kind,  can  live  near  its  influence,  and  no  evil  whatever  will 
arise  to  the  trees  from  its  poisonous  quality ;  it  yields  to  the  growth 
of  the  bark,  and  affords  a  complete  protection  to  the  parts  against 
the  influence  of  the  weather. 

A  solution  of  corrosive  sublimate,  made  as  directed  under  the 
head  Orchard  next  month,  will  be  found  the  most  effectual  wash,  that 
can  be  applied  to  peach  and  other  trees,  for  the  destruction  of  the 
•worm  which  so  generally  annoys  them. 

Those  who  wish  to  apply  Forsythe's,  or  Barnes's  compositions, 
will  find  instructions,  both  for  making  and  applying  them,  under 
the  head  Orchard  in  March. 

When  pruning  is  judiciously  clone,  fruit-trees  will  come  into 
bearing  sooner,  produce  more  abundantly,  and  continue  in  vigour 
for  nearly  double  their  common  age.  No  branch  of  your  orchard 
trees  should  ever  be  shortened,  unless  for  the  figure  of  the  tree  or 
the  reasons  before  mentioned,  and  then,  it  should  be  taken  off*  close, 
as  before  observed,  to  where  it  was  produced,  or  to  a  leading  shoot. 
The  more  the  range  of  branches  shoot  circularly,  a  little  inclining 
upwards,  the  more  equally  will  the  sap  be  destributed,  and  the  bet- 
ter will  the  tree  bear.  The  ranges  of  branches  should  not  be  too 
near  each  other,  that  the  fruit  and  leaves  should  all  have  their  full 
share  of  sun  ;  and  where  it  suits,  the  middle  of  the  tree  should  be  so 
free  from  wood,  that  no  branch  crosses  another,  but  all  the  extre- 
xneties  point  upwards. 

If  any  of  your  particularly  valuable  fruit-trees,  are  partly  decay- 
ed, or  in  a  bad  state  of  health,  and  that  you  wish  to  attempt  their 
restoration,  by  judicious  pruning,  and  the  application  of  good  com- 
position ;  you  must  defer  it  till  March,  or  when  the  sap  begins  to 
ascend  in  spring  ;  which  will  be  manifest  by  the  swelling  of  their 
buds ;  then  prune  them,  and  apply  the  composition  as  directed  in 
March. 

I  am  not  an  advocate  for  much  doctoring  with  old  decayed  or  sickly 
trees,  but  the  reverse  ;  therefore  recommend  as  the  most  preferable 
way,  to  replace  such,  with  young  healthy  trees,  so  soon  as  they 
show  strong  symptoms  of  decay.  Whenever  you  meet  with  a  tree, 
the  fruit  of  which  you  esteem,  propagate  it  immediately  whilst  in 
health,by  budding  or  grafting,  8cc.  and  if  it  should  afterwards  get  into 
a  declined  state,  replace  it  with  one  of  the  same,  or  some  other 
good  kind.  Never  propagate  from  a  sickly  tree,  if  you  can  welt 
avoid  it;  for  its  disorder  will  be  carried  with  the  buds  or  grafts,  and 
in  all  probability  will  ultimately  work  their  destruction. 

For  the  method  of  propagating  fruit-trees,  &c.  by  budding  OF 
inoculation,  see  the  Nursery  in  July,- 


[JAN.  41 


THE  VINEYARD. 

AN  infant  institution  of  such  important  national  utility  as  the 
cultivation  of  the  VINE,  merits  the  attention  and  support  of  every 
lover  of  his  country.  The  practicability  of  producing  Wine^  in  the 
United  States,  cannot  be  doubted  ;  the  experiment  has  been  made 
successfully,  in  Pennsylvania,  Kentucky,  and  South-Carolina : 
nothing  is  now  wanting,  but  the  liberal  and  spirited  exertions  of  the 
citizens,  to  carry  it  to  such  perfection,  especially  in  the  middle  and 
southern  states  ;  as  in  the  course  of  a  few  years,  to  produce  a 
sufficient  supply  for  home  consumption,  and  in  time,  a  large  quan- 
tity for  exportation. 

Work  to  be  done  in  the  Vineyard. 

In  severe  weather,  when  other  work  cannot  be  performed,  pre- 
pare poles  for  the  support  of  the  vines ;  these,  for  sake  of  durabili- 
ty, ought  to  be  made  of  red  cedar,  white  oak,  or  chesnut,  split  and 
seasoned,  and  to  be  made  one  inch  and  a  half,  or  two  inches  square, 
and  six  and  a  half,  or  seven  feet  long  ;  pointed  at  the  lower  end, 
and  if  that  part  which  is  to  be  inserted  in,  the  ground,  and  about 
three  inches  above  it,  say  fifteen  inches,  be  dipped  in  boiling  pitch, 
it  will  be  of  considerable  advantage  ;  if  this  is  not  convenient,  let 
that  part  be  slightly  scorched  in  the  fire,  which  will  prevent  their 
rotting,  so  soon  as  they  otherwise  would.  Round  poles,  such  as 
are  used  for  hoops,  of  about  two  inches  diameter  will  do,  but  these 
soon  rot,  and  will  require  to  be  replaced,  every  two  or  three  years  ; 
when  the  former  would  last,  if  made  of  the  heart  of  well  grown 
timber,  fifteen  or  twenty  years.  Sticks  of  four  or  five  feet  long, 
may  also  be  made,  for  the  purpose  of  supporting  young  vines,  dur- 
ing the  first  and  second  years  of  their  growth  ;  after  which  they  are 
to  be  taken  away  to  answer  a  similar  purpose,  and  replaced  with  the 
tall  poles  ;  those  may  be  made  one  inch  and  a  quarter  square,  point- 
ed, and  dipped  in  pitch  as  above. 

You  may  also  at  this  season  cart  manure  into  the  vineyard,  and 
spread  it  as  directed  in  February,  repair  old  fences,  and  prepare  posts 
and  rails,  or  boards,  for  new  ones  ;  examine  your  ploughs,  harrows, 
spades,  shovels,  hoes,  mattocks,  and  all  your  other  tools,  and  have 
such  as  need  it  repaired ;  purchase  any  new  tools  that  may  be  wan- 
ted, and  have  ail  your  necessaries  in  readiness  for  the  opening  of  the 
spring. 

In  such  of  the  southern  states,  as  have  mild  winters,  and  early 
vegetation,  vines  may  now  be  pruned,  as  directed  under  the  head 
Vineyard  in  February,  but  with  them,  November  would  be  a  much 
more  eligible  time  for  this  work.  In  the  middle  states  you  must 
defer  the  pruning  of  vines,  to  the  last  week  or  ten  days  in  February, 
not  later,  except  in  extremely  severe  weather,  but  on  no  account 
later  than  the  first  week  of  March,  for  soon  after  that  period,  the 
sap  begins  to  ascend,  after  which,  were  you  to  prune  them,  they 
would  bleed  so  copiously  from  where  the  wounds  were  inflicted,  as 

G 


42  THE  NURSERY.  [Lur. 

to  greatly  exhaust  and  injure  them,  and  even  totally  to  destroy  some. 
In  the  eastern  states  this  work  may  be  done  between  the  first  and 
tenth  of  March,  according  as  the  spring  may  be  early  or  late,  ob- 
serving that  it  is  safer  to  prune  too  early  than  too  late. 

Under  the  head  Vineyard  in  March,  you  will  find  general  instructions 
for  the  different  methods  of  propagating,  and  cultivating  the  -vine  ; 
both  as  espaliers,  and  in  the  field  way  ;  likewise  concise  descriptions 
of  the  various  kinds  which  have  been  generally  cultivated,  either 
for  table  use,  or  making  wine ;  and  also,  observations  on  the  kinds 
most  likely  to  succeed  in  the  various  parts  of  the  Union. 


THE  NURSERY. 

THOUGH  this  is  not  a  period,  in  which  much  business  can  be 
done  in  the  Nursery,  especially  in  the  middle  and  eastern  states  ; 
it  may  be  well  to  call  attention,  to  that  eminently  useful  depart- 
ment; in  order,  that  those  who  have  not  yet  attempted  it,  may  have 
time  to  consider  of  its  utility,  and  be  determined,  when  the  season 
arrives  in  which  it  can  be  commenced. 

The  many  advantages,  which  every  lover  of  improvement  and 
planting,  may  derive  from  having  a  Nursery  of  his  own,  especially, 
in  such  a  country  as  this ;  where  public  nurseries  are  so  scarce, 
and  frequently  so  remote,  as  to  render  it  extremely  inconvenient 
to  procure  such  trees  as  may  be  wanted,. ...the  expences  oi  transpor- 
tation to  a  considerable  distance,. ...the  length  of  time  the  trees  have 
to  be  out  of  ground  and  the  consequent  uncertainty  of  their  growth, 
....the  hazard  of  procuring  the  intended,  or  even  good  kinds;  ex- 
cept the  proprietors,  are  men  of  experience,  knowlege,  and  in- 
tegrity ;  are  strong  inducements,  to  the  establishing  small  and  con- 
venient Nurseries ;  in  which,  the  owners  may  raise  such  kinds  of 
fruit,  and  forest  trees,  ornamental  shrubs,  and  other  plants  as  may 
be  pleasing  and  profitable  to  themselves,  useful  to  posterity,  and 
ornamental  to  the  country. 

The  raising  of  thorn-quicks,  and  other  plants,  suitable  for  making 
live  hedges ;  ought  also,  to  command  attention ;  especially,  in  such 
parts  of  the  Union,  as  timber  is  getting  scarce  and  dear  in ;  the 
planting,  and  establishing  of  such  hedges,  must  ultimately  be  re- 
sorted to,  and  the  sooner  it  is  commenced,  the  better. 

Conscious  of  the  great  utility  of  such  establishments,  I  shall  in 
the  course  of  this  work  give  such  ample,  and  minute  instructions, 
for  the  raising,  and  propagation  of  fruit  and  forest  trees,  ornamental 
trees  and  shrubs,  thorn-quicks  &c.  Sec,  as  may  lead  the  most  inex- 
perienced persons,  to  a  complete  knowlege  of  the  business  ;  which 
maybe  pursued  upon  a  small,  or  a  more  extensive  scale,  as  it  suits. 

In  the  Nursery,  may  also  be  raised,  all  sorts  of  hardy  herbaceous 
plants  ;  both  fibrous,  bulbous,  and  tuberous-rooted  ;  for  adorning 
the  flower-garden,  pleasure-ground,  and  to  plant  for  medical  use,  &c. 


JAN.]  THE  NURSERY.  43 


Extent,  Soil,  and  Situation,  ^fc. 

With  respect  to  the  proper  extent,  or  dimensions  of  a  Nursery, 
whether  for  private  use  or  public  supply,  it  must  be  according  to 
the  quantity  of  plants  required,  or  the  demand  for  sale  :  if  for  pri- 
vate use,  from  a  quarter  to  half  an  acre  or  more,  may  be  sufficient, 
which  must  be  regulated  according  to  the  extent  of  garden-ground, 
and  plantations  it  is  required  to  supply  ;  and  if  for  a  public  nursery, 
for  any  general  cultivation,  not  less  than  three  or  four  acres  of  land, 
will  be  worth  occupying  as  such,  and  from  that,  to  fifteen  or  twenty 
acres,  or  more,  may  be  requisite  according  to  the  demand. 

With  respect  to  soil  for  a  nursery,  the  nature  and  quality  of  this, 
requires  particular  attention  :  it  ought  to  be  naturally  good,  for  at 
least  one  full  spade  deep,  or  if  more,  the  better  ;  always  prefer  a 
loamy  soil,  of  a  moderately  light  temperament,  which  cannot  na- 
turally be  too  good,  notwithstanding  what  some  advance  to  the  con- 
trary ;  even  though  the  trees,  should  afterwards  be  removed  into  a 
poorer  soil.  Reason  teaches,  that  young  trees  growing  vigorously 
and  freely  in  a  good  soil,  will  form  numerous  and  healthy  roots,  and 
when  they  come  to  be  afterwards  planted  in  worse  land,  they  will  be 
able,  from  the  strength  of  their  constitution,  and  multiplicity  of 
roots,  to  feed  themselves  freely  with  coarser  food.  On  the  con- 
trary, young  trees  raised  upon  poor  land,  by  having  their  vessels 
contracted,  and  their  outward  bark  mossy  and  diseased,  will  be  along 
lime,  even  after  being  removed  into  a  rich  soil,  before  they  attain  to 
a  vigorous  state.  If  the  roots  of  the  young  plants  have  not  a  good 
soil,  or  sufficient  room  to  strike  in,  there  will  be  little  hope  of  their 
furnishing  themselves  with  that  ample  stock  of  roots  and  fibres, 
which  is  necessary  to  a  good  plant,  and,  with  which  every  young 
tree  ought  to  be  well  furnished,  when  removed  for  final  transplant 
tation. 

Most  of  the  authors  who  have  written  on  the  kind  of  soil  most 
suitable  for  a  Nursery,  have  differed  in  their  opinions,  even  so  far  as 
to  be  almost  quite  contradictory  to  one  another,  and  the  common 
opinion,  is  in  favour  of  the  soil  being  the  same,  nearly  similar,  or 
rather  worse,  than  that  into  which  the  trees  are  to  be  finally  plant- 
ed ;  but  this  is  setting  out  upon  a  very  wrong  principle  ;  for,  were 
a  nursery  to  be  established  on  a  poor  gravel,  or  stiff  clay,  the  plants 
raised  on  such,  would  be  poor,  small,  hide-bound,  starved  things,very 
unfit  for  planting  in  any  land. 

If  an  animal  was  to  be  only  half  fed,  from  its  first  having  life,  for 
one  year  ;  I  believe  that  such  would  never  grow  to  be  of  a  large 
size  of  its  kind,  if  afterwards  it  was  put  into  better  keeping  ;  but 
suppose  it  was  put  to  harder  fare,  it  would  certainly  make  a  poor 
figure.  If  this  same  animal  had  been  moderately  fed  for  one  year, 
and  then  put  into  worse  feeding,  it  would  have  made  a  better  beast. 

Some  will  say,  that  these  observations  are  unnecessary,  as  the 
ground  in  which  fruit-trees  are  generally  planted,  is  for  the  most 
part  good,  being  particularly  selected  for  that  purpose,  and  that  a 
s  oil  similar  thereto  will  do  very  well ;  granted,  provided  the  ground 


44  THE  NURSERY.  [JAN. 

be  naturally  good  ;  but  if  these  people  had  a  large  extent  of  poor 
gravelly  soil,  or  stiff  clay,  to  plant  with  forest  or  ornamental  trees, 
live  hedges,  Sec.  would  they  seek  out  a  similar  spot  for  a  nursery, 
to  raise  plants  for  planting  the  same  ?  If  so,  they  would  discover 
their  mistake  when  too  late.  This  is  the  error  I  wish  to  correct, 
being  very  desirous,  that  every  attempt  towards  this  kind  of  im- 
provement, should  prove  successful  ;  and  in  order  to  effect  this,  it 
is  necessary  to  set  out  on  right  principles. 

It  is  very  wrong  to  enrich  nurseries  with  dung,  particularly  un- 
til it  is  very  old,  and  almost  turned  into  earth  ;  although  many 
eminent  nurserymen,  dung  their  ground  very  plentifully,  yet,  they 
do  it  with  great  judgement,  and  never  plant  trees  until  it  is  well 
rooted,  and  mixed  with  the  mould,  so  as  to  be  quite  incorporated, 
and  generally  take  a  crop  or  two  of  vegetables,  before  they  plant 
trees  therein. 

It  is  not  absolutely  necessary  that  the  soil  should  be  exceedingly 
rich,  nor  over  carefully  manured  :  a  medium  between  the  two  ex- 
tremes is  best  ;  such  as  any  good  substantial  garden-ground  ;  or 
good  mellow  pasture  land,  having  the  sward  trenched  to  the  bot- 
tom, will  do  very  well  for  the  growth  of  trees. 

As  to  situation,  it  ought  to  be  somewhat  low,  but  dry,  fully  ex- 
posed to  the  sun,  and  free  air,  and  if  possible  where  there  is  the 
convenience  of  water,  for  the  occasional  watering  of  young  seed- 
lings, and  newly  transplanted  trees,  &c. 

As  to  a  small  nursery  for  private  use,  it  may  be  formed  out  of 
part  of  the  kitchen-garden,  if  large  enough,  or  some  other  conve- 
nient place  ;  or  it  may  be  made  somewhere  convenient  to  the  plea- 
sure-ground, if  any  ;  and  so  contrived,  as  to  lead  insensibly  into  it, 
by  winding  walks,  so  as  to  appear,  to  be  a  part  of  the  same. 

Fences,  Preparing,  and  Laying-out  the  Ground. 

A  fence  round  the  whole  ground  is  necessary  :  this  may  either 
be  a  hedge  and  ditch,  or  a  paling  ;  the  former  is  the  cheapest,  and 
in  the  end  the  most  durable  ;  though  in  some  places  where  rabbits 
abound,  paling  fences  at  first  are  eligible,  for  preserving  the  nur- 
sery from  the  depredations  of  those  animals  which  often  do  great 
mischief  to  the  young  plants,  by  barking  and  cropping  them  :  a 
good  hedge-and-ditch  fence,  however,  may  be  made  very  effectual 
against  the  inroads  of  both  men  and  brutes  ;  and  the  most  eligible 
plant  for  this  purpose  is  the  haw-thorn ;  but  a  paling,  or  other 
similar  close  fence,  either  in  general  or  part,  would  be  extremely 
useful,  against  which  to  train  young  wall-trees  to  a  proper  growth 
for  garden  or  espalier  plantations. 

The  ground  must  then  be  all  regularly  trenched  one  or  two 
spades  deep,  according  as  the  natural  depth  of  the  soil  will  admit, 
for  by  no  means  dig  deeper  than  the  natural  good  soil,  being  either 
one  spade,  one  and  a  halt,  or  two  spades  deep. 

Then,  having  trenched  the  ground,  proceed  to  divide  it  by  walks 
into  quarters,  and  other  compartments  ;  a  principal  walk  should 
lead  directly  through  the  middle  or  some  principal  part  of  the 


JAN.]  THE  NURSERY.  45 

ground,  which  may  be  from  five  to  eight  or  ten  feet  wide,  according 
as  it  shall  seem  proper  for  use  or  ornament,  having  a  broad  border 
on  each  side  :  another  walk  should  be  carried  all  round  next  the 
outward  boundary,  four  or  five  feet  wide,  leaving  an  eight  or  ten 
feet  border  next  the  fence  all  the  way  ;  then  may  divide  the  inter- 
nal part  by  smaller  cross  walks,  so  as  to  form  the  whole  into  four, 
six,  or  eight  principal  divisions,  which  are  commonly  called  quar- 
ters. 

One  or  more  of  the  divisions  must  be  allotted  for  a  seminary, 
i.e.  for  the  reception  of  all  sorts  of  seeds,  for  raising  seedling  plants 
to  furnish  the  other  parts  ;  therefore  divide  this  seminary-ground 
into  four  feet  wide  beds,  with  foot-wide  alleys,  at  least,  between  bed 
and  bed  :  in  these  beds  should  be  sown  seeds,  &c.  of  all  such  trees, 
shrubs,  and  herbaceous  plants  as  are  raised  from  seed  ;  and  which 
seeds  consist  both  of  the  various  sorts  of  kernels  and  stones  of  fruit, 
to  raise  stocks  for  grafting  and  budding  ;  seeds  of  forest,  and  or- 
namental trees,  shrubs,  Sec.  and  seeds  of  numerous  herbaceous  pe- 
rennials, both  of  the  fibrous-rooted  and  bulbous-rooted  tribes  ;  the 
sowing  season  is  both  spring  and  autumn,  according  to  the  nature  of 
the  different  sorts,  which  is  fully  illustrated  in  their  proper  places  ; 
and  when  the  young  tree  and  shrub  seedling-plants  so  raised,are  one 
or  two  years  old,  they  are  to  be  planted  out  in  nursery -rows  into  the 
other  principal  divisions  ;  but  many  kinds  of  herbaceous  plants  re- 
quire to  be  pricked  out  from  the  seed-beds,  when  but  from  two  to 
three  or  four  months  old,  as  directed  for  each  under  their  own 
respective  heads.  On  the  other  hand,  most  kinds  of  bulbous  seed- 
lings will  not  be  fit  for  planting  out,  in  less  than  one  or  two  years. 

Another  part  of  the  Nursery -ground  should  be  allotted  for  stools 
of  various  trees  and  shrubs,  for  the  propagation  by  layers,  by  which, 
vast  numbers  of  plants  of  different  kinds  are  propagated.  These 
stools  are  strong  plants  of  trees  and  shrubs,  planted  in  rows  three 
or  four  feet  distance  every  way,  and  such  of  them  as  naturally  rise 
with  tall  stems,  are,  after  being  planted  one  year,  to  be  headed 
down  near  the  ground,  to  force  out  many  lower  shoots  conveniently 
situated  for  laying. 

And  as  to  cuttings,  suckers,  slips,  off-sets,  Sec.  those  of  hardy 
trees,  shrubs,  and  plants,  may  be  planted  in  any  convenient  com- 
partment, and  in  shady  borders,  Sec.  and  for  the  more  tender  kinds, 
should  allot  some  warm  sheltered  situation. 

The  other  principal  divisions,  therefore,  of  the  Nursery-ground, 
are  for  the  reception  of  the  various  sorts  of  seedling  plants  from  the 
above  seminary-quarters  ;  also  for  all  others  that  are  raised  from 
suckers,  layers,  cuttings,  Sec.  there  to  be  planted  in  rows  from  one 
to  two  or  three  feet  asunder,  according  to  their  natures  of  growth : 
observing  to  allow  the  tree  and  shrub-kinds  treble  the  distance  of 
herbaceous  perennials.  Of  the  tree  and  shrub  kinds,  some  are  to 
be  planted  for  stocks  to  graft  and  bud  the  select  sorts  of  fruit-trees 
upon,  and  other  choice  plants,  which  are  usually  propagated  by 
those  methods  ;  others  are  trained  up  entirely  on  their  own  roots 
without  budding  or  grafting,  as  in  most  forest  and  other  hardy 
tree  kinds  ;  as  also  almost  all  the  sorts  of  shrubs.  Here  they  are 
to  remain  to  have  two,  three,  or  several  years  growth,  according  as 


46  THE  NURSERY  [JAK. 

they  shall  require,  for  the  several  purposes  for  which  they  are  de- 
signed in  their  future  situations  in  the  garden  and  plantations,  &c. 
which  are  directed  in  their  respective  cultures. 

In  a  complete  Nursery  it  is  also  proper  to  allot  some  dry  warm 
sheltered  situation  in  the  full  sun,  on  which  to  have  occasional  hot- 
beds of  dung  or  tan,  for  raising  and  forwarding  many  sorts  of  tender 
or  curious  exotics,  by  seed,  cuttings,  suckers,  slips,  &c.  and  for 
which  purposes  you  should  be  furnished  with  eligible  frames  and 
lights,  hand  glasses,  garden-mats,  and  other  relative  requisites. 

General  Mode  of  arranging  the  Plants  of  this  Department. 

In  the  distribution  of  all  the  various  sorts  of  plants  in  the  nur- 
sery, let  each  sort  be  separate :  the  fruit  trees  should  generally 
occupy  spaces  by  themselves ;  the  forest-trees,  &c.  should  also 
be  stationed  together;  all  the  shrub-kind  should  be  ranged  in 
separate  compartments ;  allot  also  a  place  for  herbaceous  peren- 
nials: a  warm  place  should  likewise  be  allotted  for  the  tender 
plants,  and  defended  with  yew,  juniper,  or  privet  hedges,  or  a  reed 
hedge,  &c.  in  which  compartments,  you  may  station  all  such  plants 
as  are  a  little  tender  whilst  young,  and  require  occasional  shelter 
from  frost,  yet  are  not  so  tender  as  to  require  to  be  housed  like 
green-house  plants,  &c.  so  that  in  such  compartments  there 
may  also  be  frames  of  various  sizes,  either  to  be  covered  occasion- 
ally with  glass-lights,  or  some  with  mats,  to  contain  such  of  the 
more  choice  of  the  above  tender  kinds  in  pots,  to  be  nursed  up  a 
year  or  two,  or  longer,  with  occasional  shelter,  till  hardened  gradu- 
ally to  bear  the  open  air  fully. 

The  arrangement  of  all  the  sorts  in  the  open  ground  must  al- 
ways be  in  lines  or  nursery-rows,  as  formerly  observed,  to  'stand 
till  arrived  at  a  proper  growth  for  drawing  off  for  the  garden  and 
plantations;  placing  the  fruit-tree  stocks,  &c.  for  grafting  and  bud- 
ding upon,  in  rows  three  feet  asunder,  if  for  dwarfs,  but  standards 
four  feet  ^and  a  foot  and  a  half  or  two  feet  in  the  lines ;  though  after 
being  grafted  and  budded,  they  then  commencing  fruit-trees,  &c. 
if  they  are  to  stand  to  grow  to  any  large  size,  they  should  be 
allowed  the  width  of  five  feet  between  the  rows.  Forest-trees  should 
also  be  placed  in  rows  four  feet  asunder,  and  eighteen  inches  distance 
in  the  rows  ;  varying  the  distance  both  ways  according  to  the  time 
they  are  to  stand  :  the  shrub  kind  should  likewise  be  arranged  in 
rows  about  two  feet  asunder,  and  fifteen  or  eighten  inches  distant  in 
each  line  ;  and  as  to  herbaceous  plants,  they  should  generally  be 
disposed  in  four-feet-wide  beds,  or  large  borders,  in  rows,  or  dis- 
tances from  six  to  twelve  or  eighteen  inches  asunder,  according  to 
their  nature  of  growth,  and  the  time  they  are  to  stand. 

By  the  above  arrangement  of  the  various  sorts  of  hardy  trees, 
shrubs,  and  herbaceous  plants,  in  rows  at  those  small  distances  in  ' 
the  Nursery,  a  great  number  of  plants  are  contained  within  a  nar- 
row compass,  which  is  sufficient  room,  as  they  are  only  to  remain 
a  short  time  ;  and  that  by  being  thus  stationed  in  a  little  compass, 
they  are  more  readily  kept  under  a  proper  regulation  for  the  time 
they  are  to  remain  in  this  department. 


JAN.]  THE  NURSERY  47 

But  in  the  public  Nurseries,  they  often  plant  many  kinds  of  seed- 
ling-trees and  shrubs  in  much  closer  rows  at  first  planting  out,  than 
the  distances  above  prescribed,  not  only  in  order  to  husband  the 
ground  to  the  best  advantage,  but  by  standing  closer,  it  encourages 
the  stem  to  shoot  more  directly  upward,  and  prevent  them  expanding 
themselves  much  any  where  but  at  top  ;  as  for  instance,  many  sorts 
of  ever-greens  that  are  but  of  slow  growth  the  first  year  or  two, 
such  as  the  pine-trees,  firs,  and  seveal  others  ;  which  the  nursery- 
gardeners  often  prick  out  from  the  seminary,  first  into  four-feet- 
wide  beds,  in  rows  lengthways,  six  inches  asunder ;  and  after  having 
two  years  growth  there,  transplant  them  in  rows  a  foot  asunder ; 
and  in  two  years  after,  give  them  another,  and  final  transplanta- 
tion, in  the  nursery,  in  rows  three  feet  asunder,  as  observed  above ; 
and  by  these  different  transplan tings,  it  will  encourage  the  roots  to 
branch  out  into  many  horizontal  fibres,  and  prepare  them  better  for 
final  transplantation,  which  is  the  more  particularly  necessary  in 
several  of  the  pine  and  fir  kinds,  and  several  other  ever-greens. 

With  respect  to  the  different  methods  of  planting  the  various 
sorts  of  nursery-plants,  after  being  raised  either  by  seed,  layers, 
cuttings,  &c.  it  is  performed  in  several  ways  to  different  sorts ; 
some  are  pricked  out  by  dibble,  especially  small  seedlings,  others 
are  put  in  by  the  spade,  either  by  trenches,  slitting-in,  trenching, 
or  holing ;  and  some  are  drilled  in  by  a  spade  or  hoe. 

As  to  most  of  the  tree  and  shrub-kind,  sometimes  the  young 
seedling-trees  and  shrubs  are  pricked  out  from  the  seminary  by 
dibble ;  sometimes  they  are  put  in  by  the  spade  in  the  following 
methods  ;  first,  having  set  a  line  to  plant  by,  strike  the  spade  into 
the  ground  with  its  back  close  to  the  line,  and  give  another  stroke 
at  right  angles  with  it :  then  set  a  plant  into  the  crevice  made  at  the 
second  stroke,  bring  it  close  up  into  the  first  made  crevice  even  with 
the  line,  and  press  the  mould  close  to  it  with  the  foot ;  then  pro- 
ceed to  plant  another  in  the  same  way,  and  so  proceed  till  all  are 
planted.  A  second  method  is  for  plants  with  rather  larger  roots : 
strike  the  spade  down  with  its  back  close  to  the  line,  as  aforesaid, 
and  then  with  a  spade  cut  out  a  narrow  trench,  close  along  the  line, 
making  the  side  next  the  line  perfectly  upright ;  then  placing  the 
plants  upright  against  the  back  of  the  trench  close  to  the  line,  at 
the  proper  distances,  before  mentioned ;  and  as  you  go  on,  trim  in 
the  earth  upon  their  roots ;  when  one  row  is  thus  planted,  tread 
the  earth  gently  ail  along  close  to  the  plants  ;  and  then  proceed  to 
plant  another  row.  A  third  method  of  planting  out  small  tree 
and  shrub  plants  is,  having  set  the  line  as  above,  then  turning  the 
spade  edgeways  to  the  line,  cast  out  the  earth  of  that  spit,  then  a 
person  being  ready  with  plants,  set  one  in  the  ca>ity  close  to  the 
line,  and  directly  taking  another  such  pit,  turn  the  earth  in  upon 
the  roots  of  the  plant,  and  then  placing  another  plant  into  the 
second  cut,  cover  its  roots  with  the  earth  of  a  third  spit,  and  so  on 
to  the  end :  but  sometimes,  when  the  roots  are  considerably  larger, 
holes  are  made  along  by  the  line  wide  enough  to  receive  the  roots 
freely  every  way,  so  covering  them  in,  as  above,  as  you  go  on  ;  ob- 
serving always  to  press  the  earth  gentiy  with  the  foot  close  to  the 


48  THE  NURSERY.  [JAN. 

roots,  and  close  about  the  stems,  to  settle  the  plants  firmly  in  their 
proper  position. 

Herbaceous  fibrous-rooted  plants  are,  for  the  most  part,  planted 
with  a  dibble,  except  when  the  roots  are  large  and  spreading,  or 
such  as  are  removed  with  balls  of  earth  ;  then  they  are  more  com- 
monly planted  by  holing  them  in  with  a  garden  trowel,  or  small 
spade. 

Bulbous  and  tuberous-rooted  plants,  sometimes  are  planted  with 
a  dibble,  but  many  sorts  may  also  be  planted  in  drills  drawn  with  a 
hoe.  These  sorts  are  also  sometimes  planted  as  follows  :  rake  or 
trim  the  earth  from  off  the  top  of  the  beds  from  about  three  to 
four  inches  deep,  into  the  alleys,  then  place  the  roots  in  rows 
upon  the  surface,  thrusting  the  bottom  a  little  into  the  ground,  and 
immediately  cover  them  with  the  earth  which  was  drawn  off  into 
the  alleys  for  that  purpose,  spreading  it  evenly  over  every  part,  so 
as  to  bury  all  the  roots  an  equal  depth. 

But  as  to  the  tender  kinds  of  exotic  plants  that  require  occasional 
shelter  whilst  young,  many  of  them  should  be  potted,  in  order  for 
moving  to  a  warm  situation  in  winter,  or  some  into  frames,  Sec.  to 
have  occasional  shelter  from  frost,  by  glasses  or  mats,  as  they  shall 
require  ;  hardening  them,  however,  by  degrees  to  bear  the  open 
air  fully  in  the  nursery  the  year  round. 

And  the  most  tender  kinds  that  require  the  akl  of  a  green-house 
or  stove,  must  all  be  potted  and  placed  among  the  respective  plants 
of  those  conservatories. 

General  Culture  of  the  Plants  of  this  Department. 

With  respect  to  the  management  of  the  various  hardy  nursery- 
plants  ;.... 

Those  designed  as  stocks  for  fruit-trees,  should  have  their  stems 
generally  cleared  from  lateral  shoots,  so  as  to  form  a  clean  straight 
stem,  but  never  to  shorten  the  leading  shoot,  unless  it  is  decayed,  or 
becomes  very  crooked,  in  which  case  it  may  be  proper  to  cut  it 
down  low  in  spring,  and  it  will  shoot  out  again  ;  training  the  main 
shoot  for  a  stem,  with  its  top  entire  for  the  present,  till  grafted  or 
budded. 

But  in  the  above  nursery  culture,  of  the  fruit-tree  kind,  some  sorts 
designed  for  principal  wall  or  espalier  trees,  should,  when  of  one 
year's  growth  from  grafting  and  budding,  be  transplanted  against 
some  close  fence  in  the  nursery,  either  a  wall,  paling,  or  trellis,  Sec. 
and  their  first  graft  or  bud-shoot  headed  down  in  the  spring,  to  pro- 
mote an  emission  of  lower  lateral  shoots  and  branches,  in  order  to 
be  regularly  trained  to  the  fence  in  a  spreading  manner  for  two 
years*  or  more,  or  till  wanted,  whereby  to  form  the  head  in  a  regu- 
lar spreading  growth  for  the  intended  purpose  of  garden-trees,  which 
in  the  public  nurseries  in  particular,  should  always  be  ready  in  pro- 
per training  to  supply  those  who  may  wish  to  have  their  espaliers, 
&c.  covered  as  soon  as  possible  by  means  of  such  ready  trained 
trees. 


JAN.]  THE  NURSERY  49 

A  similar  training,  both  for  wall  and  espalier-fruit-trees,  may  be 
practised  to  some  principal  sorts  in  the  nursery-rows  in  the  open 
quarters  of  ground,  by  arranging  their  branches  in  a  spreading 
manner,  to  stakes  placed  for  that  purpose. 

But  for  standard  fruit-trees,  they  should  be  trained  with  a  clean 
single  stem,  five  or  six  feet  for  full  standards,  by  cutting  off  all 
lateral  shoots  arising  below;  half  standards  trained  with  a  three  or 
four  feet  stem,  and  dwarf  standards  in  proportion,  by  the  same  means ; 
and  as  to  the  heads  of  the  standards,  it  may  be  proper,  in  some, 
to  have  the  first  immediate  shoots  from  the  graft  or  bud  when  a 
year  old,  pruned  short  in  spring,  to  procure  several  laterals ;  in  order 
to  form  a  fuller  spread  of  branches,  proceeding  regularly  together 
from  near  the  summit  of  the  stem,  that  the  head  may  advance  in  a 
more  regular  branchy  growth. 

Forest-trees,  in  general,  should  be  encouraged  to  form  straight 
clean  single  stems,  by  occasional  triming  of  the  largest  lateral 
branches ;  which  will  also  promote  the  leading  top-shoot  in  aspiring 
straight,  and  faster  in  height ;  always  suffering  that  part  of  each 
tree  to  shoot  at  full  length,  that  is  not  to  top  it,  unless,  however, 
where  the  stem  divides  into  forks,  to  trim  off  the  weakest,  and 
leave  the  straightest  and  strongest  shoot  or  branch,  to  shoot  out 
at  its  proper  length  to  form  the  aspiring  top,  as  above. 

The  different  sorts  of  shrubs  may  either  be  suffered  to  branch 
out  in  their  own  natural  way,  except  just  regulating  very  disorderly 
growths ;  or  some  may  be  trained  with  single  clean  stems,  from 
about  a  foot,  to  two  or  three  high,  according  as  you  shall  think 
proper  with  respect  to  the  sorts,  or  the  purposes  for  which  you  design 
them  in  the  shrubbery  ;  but  many  shrubs  appear  the  most  agreeable 
when  permitted  to  shoot  out  laterally  all  the  way,  so  as  to  be 
branchy  or  feathered  to  the  bottom. 

Each  species  of  fruit-trees,  as  soon  as  grafted  or  budded,  should 
have  all  its  different  varieties  numbered  by  placing  large  flat- 
sided  sticks  at  the  ends  of  the  rows,  for  which  purpose  some  Nur- 
serymen use  the  spokes  of  old  coach-wheels,  or  any  thing  about 
that  size  of  any  durable  wood,  painting  or  marking  the  numbers 
thereon,  1,2,  3,  &c.  to  different  sticks,  entering  the  numbers  in  the 
Nursery -book,  with  the  name  of  the  varieties  to  which  the  number- 
sticks  are  placed ;  whereby  you  can  at  all  times  readily  have  re- 
course to  the  sorts  wanted. 

The  same  method  may  be  practised  to  any  other  trees,  shrubs, 
or  herbaceous  plants,  especially  the  varieties  of  particular  species, 
when  they  are  numerous  as  in  many  of  the  flowery-tribe,  such  as 
auriculas,  carnations,  tulips,  anemones,  ranunculuses,  and  the  like. 
With  respect  to  watering  the  Nursery-plants ;  this  may  be  very 
requisite  in  dry  hot  weather  in  spring  and  summer,  to  seed-beds, 
and  tender  seedling-plants  while  young,  and  when  first  planted  out, 
till  they  have  taken  good  root ;  also  occasionally  to  new-layed  lay- 
ers, and  newly  planted  cuttings  in  dry  warm  weather ;  but  as  to 
hardy  trees  and  shrubs  of  all  sorts,  if  planted  out  at  the  proper 
time,  that  is,  not  too  late  in  spring,  no  great  regard  need  be  paid  to 
watering,  for  they  will  generally  succeed  very  well  without  any : 


50  THE  NURSERY.  [JAW. 

indeed,  where  there  are  but  a  few,  you  may,  if  you  please,  water  them 
occasionally,  if  it  proves  a  very  dry  spring  in  April  and  May ;  but 
where  there  are  great  plantations,  it  would  be  an  almost  insuppor- 
table fatigue,  and  a  great  expense. 

Every  winter  or  spring,  the  ground  between  the  rows  of  all  sorts 
of  transplanted  plants  in  the  open  Nursery-quarters  must  be  digged ; 
this  is  particularly  necessary  to  all  the  tree  and  shrub-kinds  that 
stand  wide  enough  in  rows  to  admit  the  spade  between ;  which 
work  is  by  the  Nursery-men  called  turning-in;  the  most  general 
season  for  this  work  is,  any  time  from  October  to  the  latter  end  of 
March ;  but  the  sooner  it  is  done  the  more  advantageous  it  will 
prove  to  the  plants.  The  ground  is  to  be  digged  one  spade  deep, 
proceeding  row  by  row,  turning  the  top  of  each  spit  clean  to  the 
bottom,  that  all  weeds  on  the  top  may  be  buried  a  proper  depth  to 
rot :  this  work  of  turning-in  is  a  most  necessary  annual  operation, 
both  to  destroy  weeds,  and  to  increase  the  growth  of  the  young 
Nursery -plants. 

In  summer  be  remarkably  attentive  to  keep  all  sorts  clean  from 
weeds ;  tire  seedlings  growing  close  in  the  seminary -beds  must  be 
hand-weeded ;  but  among  plants  of  all  sorts  that  grow  in  rows 
wide  enough  to  introduce  a  hoe,  this  will  prove  not  only  the  most 
expeditious  method  of  destroying  weeds,  but  by  loosening  the  top 
of  the  soil,  it  will  prove  good  culture  in  promoting  the  growth  of 
all  kinds  of  plants ;  always  perform  this  work  of  hoeing  in  dry- 
weather,  in  due  time  before  the  weeds  grow  large,  and  you  may 
soon  go  over  a  great  space  of  ground,  either  with  a  common  draw- 
ing-hoe, or  occasionally  with  a  scuffling-hoe,  as  you  shall  find  the 
most  convenient. 

According  as  any  quarters  or  compartments  of  the  Nursery-ground 
are  cleared  from  plants,  others  must  be  substituted  in  their  room 
from  the  seminary,  &c.  but  the  ground  should  previously  be  trenched 
and  lie  some  time  fallow,  to  recruit  or  recover  its  former  vigour  ; 
giving  it  also  the  addition  of  manure,  if  it  shall  seem  proper ;  and 
after  being  trenched  in  ridges,  and  having  the  repose  only  of  one 
winter,  or  summer,  or  a  year  at  most,  it  will  sufficiently  recover  its 
vegetative  force,  and  may  be  planted  afresh. 

It  will  be  of  advantage  to  plant  the  ground,  with  plants  of  a  differ- 
ent kind  from  those  which  occupied  it  before. 

The  tender  or  exotic  plants  of  all  kinds  that  require  shelter  only 
from  frost,  whilst  young,  as  formerly  mentioned,  and  by  degrees 
become  hardy  enough  to  live  in  the  open  air ;  should,  such  of  them 
as  are  seedlings  in  the  open  ground,  have  the  beds  arched  over  with 
hoops,  cr  rods,  at  the  approach  of  winter,  in  order  to  be  sheltered 
with  mats  in  severe  weather ;  and  those  which  are  in  pots,  either 
seedlings  or  transplanted  plants,  should  be  removed  in  October  in 
their  pots,  to  a  warm  sunny  situation  sheltered  with  hedges,  &c. 
placing  some  close  under  the  fe-nces  facing  the  sun,  where  they 
may  have  occasional  covering  of  mats  in  frosty  weather  ;  others 
that  are  more  tender  may  be  placed  in  frames,  to  have  occasional 
covering  either  of  glass-lights  or  mats,  &c.  from  frost;  observing 
of  all  those  sorts  here  alluded  to,  that  they  are  gradually  to  be 


JAN.]  THE  NURSERY.  51 

hardened  to  the  open  ground,  and  need  only  be  covered  in  frosty 
weather ;  at  all  other  times  let  them  remain  fully  exposed,  and  by 
degrees,  as  they  acquire  age  and  strength,  inure  them  to  bear  the 
open  air  fully  ;  so  as,  when  they  arrive  at  from  two  or  three,  to  four 
or  five  years  old,  they  may  be  turned  out  into  the  open  ground. 
The  sorts  requiring  this  treatment,  are  pointed  out  under  their 
proper  heads,  in  the  different  months. 

The  green-house  kinds  of  all  sorts,  or  such  as  require  constant 
shelter  in  winter,  are  to  be  managed  as  directed  under  the  article 

GREEN-HOUSE. 

And  the  hot-house  or  stove-plants,  or  such  as  require  constant 
shelter  all,  or  the  greater  part  of  the  year,  together  with  the  aid  of 
artificial  heat,  are  to  be  managed  as  exhibited  under  the  article  HOT- 
HOUSE. 

Work  to  be  done  in  the  Nursery. 

Young  apple  and  pear  trees,  may  now  be  pruned,  agreeably  to 
the  rules  laid  down  in  March  :  though,  if  your  stock  of  these,  is 
not  very  numerous  ;  and  that  you  are  desirous  to  have  so  much 
work  done  out  of  the  way,  when  the  hurry  of  business  comes  on  in 
spring  ;  it  will  be  quite  as  well,  to  defer  doing  it,  till  the  end  of 
February,  or  beginning  of  March. 

Trim  up  the  stems  of  forest,  and  other  hardy  trees,  where  they 
require  it  ;  this  may  be  done,  when  little  else  can,  in  the  nursery  ; 
for,  if  it  is  performed  in  frosty  weather,  the  trees  will  receive  no 
harm  by  the  operation,  especially,  the  hardy  deciduous  kinds. 

Carry  well  rotted  dung,  or  compost,  and  lay  it  on  such  parts  of 
the  nursery  as  require  it.  This  may  be  necessary  to  such  particu- 
lar quarters  as  have  been  lately  cleared,  and  that  are  intended  to  be 
planted  again  with  a  fresh  stock  in  autumn,  taking  off  a  summer 
crop  of  vegetables,  previous  thereto  ;  and  when  the  frost  permits, 
let  it  be  trenched  in  regularly,  one  full  spade  deep  at  least.  If  ne- 
cessity requires  it,  this  ground  may  be  planted  with  young  trees, 
Sec.  in  spring. 

In  severe  weather,  when  out-work  cannot  be  done,  make  label- 
sticks,  and  have  them  in  readiness  when  wanted,  to  mark  the  va- 
rious kinds,  and  varieties,  of  fruit  and  forest  trees,  shrubs,  plants, 
Sec.  which  you  intend  to  plant  or  propagate  in  spring  ;  the  largest 
to  mark  rows  of  fruit  trees,  Sec.  should  be  about  the  size  of  a  coach- 
wheel  spoke,  and  for  sake  of  durability,  made  of  white  oak,  or  some 
other  good  durable  wood,  with  the  numbers  marked,  or  painted 
thereon  ;  such  will  last  you  for  several  years  :  small  kinds,  for  la- 
beling flowers,  or  the  various  sorts  of  small  seeds,  which'  you  in^ 
tend  to  sow,  may  be  made  of  old  or  new  shingles}  or  pieces  of  good 
pine,  cut  and  split  to  such  lengths  as  you  desire  ;  form  these  neatly, 
and  when  you  are  going  to  use  them,  rub  one  side  of  the  upper  end, 
for  about  two  inches  with  white  oil-colour  paint  ;  on  which,  'while  yet 
wet,  write  your  number,  or  the  name  of  the  plant  at  full  length, 
with  a  black-lead  pencil ;  this  will  endure  any  kind  of  weather,  for 
one  year  at  least ;  and  be  legible  for  several  years,  when  placed  in 
pots,  with  GREEN-HOUSE,  or  HOT-HOUSE  plants. 


52  THE  NURSERY.  [JA*. 


Care  of  tender  and  young  seedling  Trees. 

Take  great  care  now  of  all  the  tender  kinds  of  seedling  trees, 
shrubs,  and  other  young  plants  of  similar  quality,  raised  from  seed, 
or  by  other  means,  last  year  or  before  ;  many  kinds  will,  in  hard 
frost,  need  shelter. 

Particularly  the  young  seedling  plants  of  the  cedar  of  Lebanon,8cc. 
China  arbor  vitse,  the  tender  kinds  of  pines  and  firs,  and  the  seed- 
ling plants  of  cypress,  and  such  like  kinds  of  young  seedling  ever- 
greens, which  will  all  need  occasional  protection  in  severe  weather  : 
and  therefore,  at  the  approach  of  the  first  hard  frost,  the  potsr  or 
boxes,  8cc.  containing  them,  should  be  removed  into  a  garden  frame, 
or  some  other  convenience  of  occasional  shelter,  and  in  the  time  of 
hard  frosts,  the  glasses,  and  other  covering  put  on  ;  but  they 
must  be  kept  constantly  open  in  mild  weather,  when  it  can  be  done 
with  safety  to  the  plants. 

The  tender  seedling  plants  which  are  growing  in  beds,  and  re- 
quire shelter  in  time  of  frost,  should  be  covered  at  such  time  with 
mats  :  first  erecting  some  hoops  across  the  bed,  and  the  mats  to  be 
drawn  over  them  occasionally  for  defence  of  the  plants. 

Likewise  some  of  the  more  hardy  kinds  of  young  plants  may  be 
sheltered  in  bad  weather,  by  laying  some  straw,  fern,  or  long  dry 
litter  lightly  over  them  ;  this  will  protect  the  tender  tops  and  roots 
from  the  frost. 

But  this  covering  must  not  be  suffered  to  remain  longer  than  ne- 
cessary to  defend  the  plants. 

Likewise  any  curious  or  tender  young  ever-greens,  See.  that  are 
planted  in  pots,  should  be  placed  under  shelter  in  severe  frost  ; 
such  as  arbutus  or  strawberry-tree,  magnolia  grandiflora,  cistuses, 
China  arbor  vitse,  English  and  Portugal  Laurels,  £cc.  placing  them 
in  a  frame,  or  where  they  may  be  defended  either  with  glasses, 
mats,  or  other  covering,  in  rigorous  weather. 

SOUTHERN    STATES. 

Dig  the  ground,  if  open  weather,  between  the  continuing  rows 
of  young  trees  and  shrubs  of  all  sorts. 

But  previous  to  performing  this  work,  give  any  necessary  prim- 
ing to  the  shrubs  and  trees,  especially,  the  deciduous  kinds  ;  then 
let  the  ground  be  digged  one  spade  deep  ;  as  you  go  on,  trim  off 
any  straggling  roots  of  the  trees  and  shrubs  ;  and  in  digging,  give 
every  spit  a  fair  turn  off  the  spade,  that  the  weeds  on  the  surface 
may  be  buried  properly. 

Transplanting  of  young  forest  and  ornamental  trees  in  the  nur- 
sery, and  where  required,  may  be  performed  any  time  this  month  if 
the  weather  is  open,  and  the  ground  not  too  wet. 

Particularly  deciduous  forest-trees,  8cc.  of  the  hardy  kinds,  may 
be  removed  any  time  this  month,  if  mild  weather  ;  but  this  should 
not  be  generally  practised  to  ever-greens,  at  this  season,  especially 
where  smart  frosts,  may  be  expected  to  follow. 


JAN.]  THE  NURSERY.  53 

Prune  honey- suckles  and  roses,  and  all  other  kinds  of  hardy  de- 
ciduous flowering  shrubs  that  want  it,  training  each  with  a  single 
stem,  and  trimming  their  heads  as  you  shall  see  occasion  ;  that  is, 
either  to  cut  out  or  shorten  all  straggling  shoots,  in  such  manner 
as  you  shall  see  necessary,  to  keep  their  heads  somewhat  to  a  regu- 
lar form. 

In  open-  and  settled  weather  you  may  now  transplant,  where  ne- 
cesary,  most  sorts  of  hardy  deciduous  flowering  shrubs,  both  in  the 
nursery  order,  and  for  shrubbery  plantations,  Sec.  in  a  dry  soil  ;  but 
where  the  soil  is  apt  to  lodge  wet,  there  should  not  be  any  planted 
therein  before  February. 

Plantations  of  fruit-tree  stocks,  for  grafting  and  budding  upon, 
may  be  made  at  any  time  of  this  month,  if  mild  open  weather. 
Many  of  those  raised  from  seed,  Sec.  last  spring,  or  the  year  before, 
will  be  fit  for  this,  digging  them  up  out  of  the  seed-bed,  Sec.  with 
their  full  roots,  and  let  them  be  planted  in  nursery-rows,  three  or 
four  feet  asunder,  and  fifteen  or  eighteen  inches  distant  from  each 
other  in  the  rows  ;  and  when  they  have  attained  one,  or  two,  year's 

growth,  in  these  rows,  will  be  proper  for  budding  and  grafting 

See  the  Nursery ^  in  October,  for  the  method  of  planting  ;  that  of 
March,  for  grafting,  and  July  and  August,  for  budding. 

You  may  still  make  layers  in  open  weather  of  many  sorts  of  de- 
ciduous trees  and  shrubs  that  you  desire  to  increase. 

This  work  of  laying  down  the  branches  ^of  shrubs  and  trees,  to 
propagate  them,  is  very  easily  performed  ;  and  there  are  a  great 
many  kinds  of  trees  and  shrubs  to  be  increased  by  this  operation, 
in  the  manner  following. 

In  the  first  place  it  must  be  remarked,  that  the  young  branches 
that  were  produced  last  summer,  are  the  most  proper  parts  to  be 
layed ;  for  these  will  put  out  roots  more  freely  than  the  branches 
that  are  a  year  or  two  older.  Observing  farther,  that  many  of 
the  shrub  kinds  branching  out  near  the  earth,  afford  an  opportunity 
of  laying  them  with  great  facility  ;  but  such  as  run  up  with  tall 
stems,  and  those  of  the  tree  kinds,  require  that  some  strong  young 
plants,  principally  deciduous,  with  stems  one,  two,  or  three  inches 
thick,  be  cut  down  near  the  ground  a  year  or  two  before,  to  form 
stools  to  furnish  a  supply  of  shoots  near  the  earth,  convenient  for 
laying  therein.  The  ground  must  be  dug  about  the  shrub  or  tree 
that  is  to  be  layed  ;  and  as  you  go  on,  bring  down  the  branches, 
and  fasten  them  in  the  ground  with  hooked  pegs,  observing  to  lay 
down  all  the  young  wood  on  each  branch  into  the  earth,  covering 
therewith  the  body  of  each  layer  three  or  four  inches  deep,  and 
fastening  each  also  with  a  peg,  if  necessary  ;  and  raise  the  tops  up- 
right out  of  the  earth. 

But  in  laying  some  hard-wooded  trees  and  shrubs,  it  is  necessary 
to  slit  the  layer,  by  making  a  gash  with  a  knife  on  the  under-side, 
slitting  it  an  inch  or  more  upward  ;  so  laying  that  part  in  the  earth, 
keeping  the  gash  a  little  open,  which  will  greatly  assist  the  rooting, 
by  promoting  the  emission  of  fibres  at  the  cut  part.  And  this  may 
also  be  performed  to  the  same  advantage  in  the  laying  of  trees  and 
shrubs  in  general. 


£4  THE  NURSERY.  [JAN. 

Or  you  may  give  the  young  shoot  a  twist,  in  that  part,  which 
you  intend  laying  in  the  earth,  by  which  method,  it  will  root  more 
freely,  than  if  laid  down  without  it. 

Those  which  are  layed  in  this  or  next  month,  will  be  tolerably 
well  rooted  by  next  autumn,  and  may  then  be  separated  from  the 
tree,  and  planted  in  the  nursery  to  get  strength. 

Cuttings  of  many  kinds  of  flowering  shrubs  and  trees  may  also 
still  be  planted  :  and  there  are  vast  numbers  of  plants  that  may  be 
propagated  by  this  method.  There  is  hardly  any  tree  or  shrub  but 
what  may  be  increased  either  by  this  method,  or  by  layers,  or 
suckers  from  the  root. 

But  the  manner  of  propagating  trees  or  shrubs  by  cuttings,  is 
this :  The  cuttings  must  be  young  shoots  of  the  last  year's  growth, 
which  must  be  cut  with  a  sharp  knife  from  the  tree  or  shrub  you 
desire  to  propagate  ;  they  must  be  from  about  six  or  eight,  to  twelve 
or  fifteen  inches  long,  according  to  their  strength  and  manner  of 
growth  ;  let  them  be  planted  in  rows  eighteen  inches  asunder, 
and  from  five  to  eight  inches  distance  in  the  row  ;  and  every  cut- 
ting inserted  two  thirds  of  its  length  into  the  ground. 

Propagate  gooseberries  and  currants  by  cuttings,  as  directed  in 
October  ;  and  prune  such  of  the  old  plants  as  require  it,  agreeably 
to  the  directions  given  in  this,  and  that  month. 

In  open  weather,  you  should,  as  much  as  possible,  forward  the 
digging  and  trenching  vacant  compartments  of  ground,  where  young 
trees  and  shrubs  are  to  be  planted  in  this  and  next  month. 

Now  prepare  some  ground,  where  it  is  not  wet,  for  the  reception 
of  stones  and  kernels  of  hardy  fruits,  to  raise  a  supply  of  stocks, 
for  the  purpose  of  budding  and  grafting  upon. 

These,  may  be  sown  any  time  this  month,  observing  to  sow  them 
in  beds  four  feet  wide  ;  cover  the  stones  an  inch  and  a  half  deep 
with  earth,  and  the  kernels,  half  an  inch :  the  plants  will  appear  in 
March,  April,  and  May  ;  when  they  must  be  kept  clean  from  weeds, 
and  moderate  watering  in  dry  weather  will  be  serviceable,  when 
they  are  newly  come  up.  Some  of  them  will  be  fit  for  transplant- 
ing in  nursery  rows  next  November. 

Sow  the  various  kinds  of  haw-thorn,  holly,  red  cedar,  yew,  me- 
zereon,  juniper,  sweet  bay,  English  and  Portugal-laurel  berries  ; 
likewise,  the  seeds  of  hornbeam,  ash,  spindle-tree,  bladder-nut,  and 
all  the  other  kinds  of  tree,  and  shrub-seeds,  which  require  a  years 
preparation  previous  to  sowing,  as  noticed  in  February.  The 
sooner  now,  these  kinds  of  seeds  are  sown,  the  better  ;  provided 
the  ground  be  dry,  and  that  it  works  loose  and  light. 

For  particular  instructions  respecting  the  sowing  of  these  seeds, 
-fee.  see  February  and  March. 


JAN.]  55 


THE  PLEASURE,  OR  FLOWER-GARDEN. 


Ornamental  Deaigns,  and  Planting. 

THE  district  commonly  called  the  Pleasure,  or  Flower-Garden, 
or  Pleasure-ground,  may  be  said  to  comprehend  all  ornamental 
compartments,  or  divisions  of  ground,  surrounding  the  mansion  ; 
consisting  of  lawns,  plantations  of  trees  and  shrubs,  flower  com- 
partments, walks,  pieces  of  water,  &c.  whether  situated  wholly 
within  the  space  generally  considered  as  the  Pleasure-Garden,  or 
extended  to  the  adjacent  fields,  parks,  or  other  out-grounds. 

In  designs  for  a  Pleasure-ground,  according  to  modern  garden- 
ing ;  consulting  rural  disposition,  in  imitation  of  nature  ;  all  too 
formal  works  being  almost  abolished,  such  as  long  straight  walks, 
regular  intersections,  square  grass-plats,  corresponding  parterres, 
quadrangular  and  angular  spaces,  and  other  uniformities,  as  in  an- 
cient designs  ;  instead  of  which,  are  now  adopted,  rural  open  spa- 
ces of  grass-ground,  of  varied  forms  and  dimensions,  and  winding 
walks,  all  bounded  with  plantations  of  trees,  shrubs,  and  flowers,  in 
various  clumps  ;  other  compartments  are  exhibited  in  a  variety  of 
imitative  rural  forms  ;  such  as  curves,  projections,  openings,  and  clos- 
ings, in  imitation  of  a  natural  assemblage  ;  having  all  the  various 
plantations  and  borders,  open  to  the  walks  and  lawns. 

For  instance,  a  grand  and  spacious  open  lawn,  of  grass-ground, 
is  generally  first  presented  immediately  to  the  front  of  the 
mansion,  or  main  habitation  ;  sometimes  widely  extended  on  both 
sides,  to  admit  of  a  greater  prospect,  &c.  and  sometimes  more  con- 
tracted towards  the  habitation ;  widening  gradually  outwards,  and 
having  each  side  embellished  with  plantations  of  shrubbery,  clumps, 
thickets,  &c.  in  sweeps,  curves,  and  projections,  towards  the  lawn  ; 
with  breaks  or  opens  of  grass-spaces  at  intervals,  between  the  dif- 
ferent plantations  ;  together  with  serpentine  gravel  walks,  winding 
under  the  shade  of  the  trees  :  extended  plantations  ought  also  to  be 
carried  round  next  the  outer  boundary  of  the  pleasure-ground, 
when  extensive  ;  in  various  Openings  and  closings,  having  gravel 
walks  winding  through  them,  for  shady  and  private  walking  ;  and 
in  the  interior  divisions  of  the  ground,  serpentine  winding  walks, 
and  elegant  grass  openings,  ranged  various  ways,  all  bordered  with 
shrubberies,  and  other  tree  and  shrub  plantations,  flower  compart- 
ments, &c.  disposed  in  a  variety  of  different  rural  forms,  in  easy 
bendings,  concaves,  and  straight  ranges,  occasionally  ;  with  inter- 
vening breaks  or  opens  of  grass-ground  ;  both  to  promote  rural  di- 
versity, and  for  communication  and  prospect  to  the  different  divi- 
sions ;  all  the  parts  of  the  pleasure-ground  being  so  arranged,  as 
gradually  to  discover  new  scenes,  each  furnishing  fresh  variety, 
both  in  the  form  of  the  design  in  different  parts,  as  well  as  in  the 
disposition  of  the  various  trees,  shrubs,  and  flowers,  and  other  or- 
naments and  diversities. 


56  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [JAN, 

In  designs  for  a  Pleasure-ground,  according  to  modern  taste,  a 
tract  of  ground  of  any  considerable  extent,  may  have  the  prospect 
varied  and  diversified  exceedingly,  in  a  beautiful  representation  of 
art  and  nature,  as  that  in  passing  from  one  compartment  to  ano- 
ther, still  new  varieties  present  themselves,  in  the  most  agreeable 
manner  ;  and  even  if  the  figure  of  the  ground  is  irregular,  and  the 
surface  has  many  inequalities,  the  whole  may  be  improved  without 
any  great  trouble  of  squaring  or  levelling  ;  for  by  humouring  the 
natural  form,  you  may  cause  even  the  very  irregularities  and  natu- 
ral deformities,  to  carry  along  with  them  an  air  of  diversity  and 
novelty,  which  fail  not  to  please  and  entertain  most  observers. 

In  these  rural  works,  however,  we  should  not  abolish  entirely,  the 
appearance  of  art  and  uniformity  ;  for  these  when  properly  applied, 
give  an  additional  beauty  and  peculiar  grace,  to  all  our  natural  pro- 
ductions, and  sets  nature  in  the  fairest  and  most  beautiful  point  of 
view. 

But  some  modern  Pleasure-grounds,  in  which  rural  design  is  co- 
pied to  an  extreme,  are  often  very  barren  of  variety  and  entertain- 
ment, as  they  frequently  consist  only  of  a  grass-lawn,  like  a  great 
field ;  having  a  running  plantation  of  trees  and  shrubs  all  round  it,  just 
broad  enough,  to  admit  a  gravel-walk  winding  through  it,  in  the  ser- 
pentine way,  in  many  short  twists  and  turns,  and  bordering  at  every 
turn  alternately,  upon  the  outward  fence  and  the  lawn  ;  which  are 
continually  obtruded  upon  the  sight,  exhibiting  the  same  prospect 
over  and  over,  without  the  least  variation  ;  so  as  that  after  having 
traversed  the  walks  all  round  this  sort  of  pieasure-ground,  we  find 
no  more  variety  or  entertainment  than  at  our  first  entrance,  the 
whole  having  presented  itself  at  the  first  view. 

Therefore,  in  laying  out  pleasure-ground,  the  designer  ought  to 
take  particular  care,  that  the  whole  extent  be  not  taken  in  at  one 
view  ;  only  exhibiting  at  first  a  large  open  lawn,  or  other' spacious 
open  compartment,  or  grand  walk,  Sec.  terminated  on  each  side 
with  plantations  of  curious  trees,  shrubs  and  flowers,  exhibiting  only 
some  opens  at  intervals  ;  and  behind  these  have  compartments  of 
the  like  plantations,  with  grass  openings,  gravel  walks,  water,  and  other 
ornaments  ;  so  that  a  spectator  will  be  agreeably  surprised  to  find, 
that  what  terminated  his  prospect,  only  served  as  an  introduction 
new  beauties  and  varieties. 

It  is  impossible  to  exhibit  any  regular  direction  for  planning  an 
extensive  pleasure-ground,  as  the  different  figures,  and  situations, 
£cc.  of  the  ground,  may  require  different  designs,  therefore  general 
hints  only,  can  be  given. 

Sketch  of  the  Design. 

The  following  general  sketch  may  be  varied  according  to  the 
situation  and  extent  of  the  ground,  and  may  be  useful  to  persons 
who  are  unexperienced  in  designs  of  the  kind. 

With  respect  to  situation,  this  must  be  immediately  contiguous 
to  the  mansion-house,  whether  high  or  low  situated ;  remarking, 
however,  that  a  somewhat  elevated  situation,  or  the  side  or  sum- 


JAN.]  FLOWER-GARDEN.  57 

mit  of  some  moderate  rising  ground,  is  always  the  most  eligible  on 
which  to  erect  the  chief  habitation,  arranging  the  pleasure-ground 
accordingly  ;  such  an  exposure  being  the  most  desirable,  both  for 
the  beauty  of  the  prospect,  and  healthfulness  of  the  air  ;  there  are 
however  some  level  situations,  forming  plains  or  flats,  that  possess 
great  advantages,  both  of  soil  and  prospect,  and  also  the  beauties 
of  water,  without  too  copious  damps  or  moisture  ;  there  are  also  some 
large  tracts  of  ground,  consisting  both  of  low  and  high  situations, 
as  level  plains,  hollows,  eminences,  declivities,  and  other  inequali- 
ties, which  may  be  so  improved  as  to  make  a  most  desirable  plea- 
sure-garden, as  the  scene  may  be  varied  in  the  most  beautiful  man- 
ner. 

The  extent  of  pleasure-ground  may  be  varied  according  to  that 
of  the  estate  or  premises,  and  the  fortune  of  the  owner  ;  so  may 
be  from  even  a  quarter  or  half  an  acre,  to  thirty,  forty  or  more. 

The  ground  should  be  previously  fenced,  which  may  be  occasion- 
ally a  hedge,  paling  or  wall,  Sec.  as  most  convenient. 

With  respect  to  the  arrangement  of  the  several  divisions,  the 
following  general  sketches  are  on  a  supposition  of  a  considerable 
tract  of  ground  ;  and  if  the  piece  of  ground  is  small,  greater  sim- 
plicity of  design  must  be  observed  in  proportion. 

First  an  open  lawn  of  grass-ground  is  extended  on  one  of  the 
principal  fronts  of  the  mansion  or  main  house,  widening  gradually 
from  the  house  outward,  having  each  side  bounded  by  various 
plantations  of  trees,  shrubs,  and  flowers,  in  clumps,  thickets,  &c. 
exhibited  in  a  variety  of  rural  forms,  in  moderate  concave  and 
convex  curves,  and  projections,  to  prevent  all  appearance  of  a 
stiff  uniformity ;  introducing  between  the  plantations  at  inter- 
vals, breaks  or  opens  of  grass-ground,  communicating  with  the 
lawn  and  internal  divisions,  in  some  places  widely  spread,  in  others 
more  contracted ;  leaving  also  tracts  for  serpentine  gravel-walks, 
some  winding  under  the  shade  of  the  plantations,  so  conducted  as 
to  command  views  of  the  lawn  and  interior  divisions  occasionally, 
and  at  intervals,  of  the  most  beautiful  parts  of  the  surrounding 
country. 

This  ground  must  be  more  contracted  as  it  approaches,  near  the 
mansion,  that  company  may  the  sooner  arrive  in  the  walks  of  the 
shrubbery j  wilderness,  &c.  under  the  shade  and  shelter  of  trees  ; 
but  the  outward  extension  on  each  boundary,  should  widen  gra- 
dually towards  the  extreme  termination,  to  give  an  air  of  grandeur, 
and  admit  of  a  full  prospect  from  and  to  the  mansion. 

Each  boundary  must  be  planted  with  a  choice  variety  of  orna- 
mental trees  and  shrubs,  deciduous,  and  ever-greens,  arranged  prin- 
cipally in  several  clumps ;  some  consisting  of  lofty  trees,  others  be- 
ing entirely  of  the  shrub  kinds,  and  some  consisting  of  trees, 
shrubs,  and  herbaceous  plants  together  :  in  all  of  which,  arrange 
the  taller  growing  kinds  backward,  and  the  lower  forward,  accord- 
ing to  their  gradation  of  height ;  embellishing  the  front  with  the 
more  curious  low  flowering  shrubs,  and  ever-greens,  interspersed 
with  various  herbaceous  flowering  perennials,  all  open  to  the  lawn 
and  walks. 


58  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [JAW, 

In  the  general  arrangement,  the  great  art  is  to  vary  the  prospect  of 
the  different  divisions,  so  as  they  may  variously  present  an  air  of 
novelty,  and  source  of  convenience  and  entertainment. 

Around  towards  the  outward  boundary  fence,  is  generally  arrang- 
ed a  plantation  of  trees  and  shrubs,  in  varied  easy  sweeps,  and 
broad  enough  to  admit  of  a  serpentine  walk,  through  the  whole  ex- 
tent, undercover  of  these  trees  and  shrubs,  for  private  and  shady  walk- 
ing ;  with  breaks  and  openings  here,  and  there,  to  admit  of  pros- 
pects, both  to  the  lawn  and  surrounding  country. 

In  various  parts  of  the  pleasure-ground,  leave  recesses  and  other 
places  surrounded  with  clumps  of  trees  and  shrubs,  for  the  erec- 
tion of  garden  edifices,  such  as  temples,  grottos,  rural  seats,  sta- 
tues, &,c.  and  if  water  from  some  upper  spring  or  head,  can  be  led 
in  a  winding  course,  through  the  lower  parts  in  gentle  meanders,  it 
will  have  a  charming  effect. 

Other  internal  divisions  appear  with  an  air  of  grandeur  and  mag- 
nificence, when  exhibiting  a  spacious  opening  of  grass-ground, 
bounded  by  the  noblest  trees  and  shrubs,  in  various  elegant  clumps, 
groves,  groups,  and  straight  ranges ;  and  the  opening  terminated 
by  some  fine  open  prospect,  grand  piece  of  water,,  or  ornamental 
building. 

Another  part  shall  appear  more  gay  and  sprightly,  displaying  an 
elegant  flower-ground,  or  flower-garden,  designed  somewhat  in  the 
parterre  way,  in  various  beds,  borders,  and  other  divisions,  furnished 
with  the  most  curious  flowers  ;  and  the  boundary  decorated  with 
an  arrangement  of  various  clumps,  of  the  most  beautiful  flowering 
shrubs,  and  lively  ever-greens,  each  clump  also  bordered  with  a  va- 
riety of  the  herbaceous  flowery  tribe. 

Another  division  sometimes  to  diversify  the  scenery,  presents  a 
Wilderness,  in  irregular  partititions  of  plantations,  having  interven- 
ing spaces  of  grass-ground,  and  gravel-walks,  extending  in  various 
directions  ;  some  by  winding  mazes  or  labyrinths,  into  openings 
formed  in  different  parts  ;  the  boundary  plantation  of  this  division, 
being  generally  planted  in  close  assemblage,  with  serpentine  walks 
between  ;  some  leading  in  private  meanders  towards  the  ulterior 
parts,  or  breaking  out  sometimes  into  other  walks  that  are  open 
and  spacious,  both  of  grass,  and  gravel  occasionaally  ;  conducted  in 
serpentine  turns,  to  cause  the  greater  variety  >  some  places  being 
closely  bordered  with  tall  trees,  to  effect  a  gloominess  and  perfect 
shade  :  the  different  walks  leading  now  and  then  into  circular  open- 
ings, each  being  surrounded  with  plantations  as  aforesaid  ;  making; 
the  principal  walks  terminate  in  a  grand  opening  in  the  centre  of 
the  wilderness,  in  which  may  be  some  ornamental  edifice,  or  fine 
piece  of  water,  Sec. 

Straight  ranges  of  the  most  stately  trees,  are  sometimes  arrang- 
ed on  grass-ground  in  different  parts,  in  contrast  with  irregular 
plantations  ;  and  produce  a  most  agreeable  effect,  which  though 
prohibited  in  many  modern  designs,  always  exhibit  an  air  of  gran- 
deur ;  being  arranged  sometimes  in  single  rows,  others  double,  or 
two  ranges  at  certain  distances,  forming  a  grand  walk  ;  in  other 
parts,  several  regular  ranges  of  trees  together  in  the  manner  of 


JAN.]  FLOWER-GARDEN.  59 

groves  ;  the  whole  combined,  forming  a  diversity,  pleasing  to  the 
senses,  and  condusive  to  health,  by  exciting  to  the  salutary  exercise 
of  walking. 

In  other  parts  are  sometimes  discovered  eminences,  or  rising 
grounds,  as  a  high  terrace,  mount,  steep  declivity,  or  other  emi- 
nence, ornamented  \vith  curious  trees  and  shrubs,  with  walks  lead- 
ing under  the  shade  of  trees,  by  easy  ascents  to  the  summit,  where 
is  presented  to  the  view,  an  extensive  prospect  of  the  adjacent  fields, 
buildings,  hamlets,  and  country  around,  and  likewise  affording  a 
fresh  and  cooling  air  in  summer. 

Regular  compartments  and  figures,  in  various  forms,  are  also 
sometimes  introduced  in  some  extensive  grounds,  for  variety  ;  in 
contrast  with  the  irregular  works,  and  still  to  preserve  some  ap- 
pearance of  the  remains  of  ancient  gardening  ;  such  as  straight 
walks,  verged  with  bordtrs  of  flowers,  &c.  regular  parterres,  in 
flower  borders  ;  square  spaces,  circles,  and  octagons,  &c.  inclosed 
with  low  clipped  hedges  ;  hedge-work,  formed  into  various  devices  ; 
detached  ever-greens,  formed  into  pyramids  and  other  regular 
figures  ;  regular  grass-slopes,  formed  on  the  side  of  some  declivi- 
ty or  rising  ground  ;  elevated  terrace's,  clumps  of  trees,  sur- 
rounded with  low  evergreen  hedges  ;  straight  avenues  of  trees, 
in  ranges,  &c.  a  little  of  each  being  judiciously  disposed  in  different 
situations,  may  prove  an  agreeable  variety,  by  diversifying  the 
scene,  in  contrast  with  the  rural  works  before  mentioned. 

Sometimes  a  blake  declivity,  rocky  ground,  or  rough  vale,  is 
made  to  exhibit  a  wild  and  uncultivated  scene,  and  tends  to  set  off 
the  improved  parts,  to  great  advantage. 

Pieces  of  water  are  always,  where  possible,  exhibited,  in  the  most 
conspicuous  points,  contiguous  to  the  termination  of  the  main  lawn, 
or  other  spacious  openings ;  representing  sometimes  a  lake,  bason, 
&c.  and  sometimes  a  natural  river,  winding  its  course  through  dif- 
ferent divisions,  and  its  termination  concealed  by  a  curious  turn, 
making  it  appear  to  loose  itself  in  the  adjacent  plantations. 

With  respect  to  the  walks,  some  ought  to  be  made  of  gravel,  and 
some  of  grass  ;  the  former  for  common  walking,  and  the  latter  for 
occasional  walking  in  the  heat  of  summer;  which,  in  dry  hot 
weather,  may  be  more  agreeable  than  the  gravel-walks ;  therefore 
some  of  each  sort  is  proper,  both  for  convenience  and  variety. 

Gravel-walks,  however,  should  lead  all  round  the  pleasure-ground, 
and  into  the  principal  internal  divisions,  so  as  to  have  dry  and  firm 
walking,  at  all  times  of  the  year ;  for  frequently,  but  particularly  in 
winter,  and  in  wet  weather,  grass-walks  are  very  uncomfortable  and 
even  unhealthy  to  walk  on.  These  walks  should  be  of  proportional 
width,  in  different  parts,  and  larger  or  smaller  in  proportion  to  the 
extent  of  the  ground. 

As  to  the  distribution  of  gravel-walks. ...first  a  magnificent  one, 
from  fifteen  to  twenty  or  thirty  feet  wide.,  should  range  immediately- 
close  and  parallel  to  the  front  of  the  house,  and  be  conducted  di- 
rectly across  the  lawn  into  the  nearest  side  shrubberies  ;  from  this 
main  walk,  other  smaller  ones,  from  five  to  ten  or  fifteen  feet  wide, 
according  to  the  extent  of  the  ground,  should  branch  off  at  proper 


60  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [JAN. 

intervals,  directed  in  the  serpentine  way.., .some  leading  through 
the  outer  boundary  plantations,  as  already  hinted. ...others  into  the 
internal  divisions,  and  others  carried  along  the  boundary  plantation 
of  the  main  lawn ;  all  of  which  walks  being  conducted  through  the 
different  parts,  in  order  to  afford  the  convenience  of  shade  and  re- 
tirement occasionally,  as  well  as  to  enjoy  the  variety  of  the  trees, 
shrubs,  and  flowers,  variously  presenting  themselves  at  different 
turnings  :  for  the  walks  having  various  sweeps  and  windings,  dis- 
covering only  a  moderate  length  at  once,  every  turning  produces 
new  varieties,  and  should  likewise  be  so  contrived  as  at  proper  in- 
tervals, to  discover  openings  for  prospects  into  different  principal 
divisions  of  the  ground  ;  having  in  some  places  the  plantation  of 
trees,  shrubs,  and  flowers,  bordering  close  upon  the  walks  ;  in  other 
parts,  have  on  one  side  of  the  walks  considerable  grass-spaces,  run- 
ning into  the  plantation,  in  one  or  more  concave  curves,  to  form  the 
greater  diversity. 

In  some  places  the  windings  of  walks  should  be  gradual  and  mo- 
derate; in  others,  exhibit  sudden  turns  and  sweeps. ...some  display- 
ing magnificent  projections  in  the  plantation others,  spacious 

openings,  bordered  with  curious  plants. ...in  other  parts  a  close  thick- 
et, which  sometimes  may  seem  to  terminate  the  walk,  when  by  a  sud- 
den turn,  it  breaks  out  all  at  once,  into  some  grand  open  division,  spa- 
cious open  walk,  an  avenue,  or  elegant  piece  of  water,  open  grove,  &c. 
And  in  other  parts  a  walk  suddenly  divides  into  two  or  three  divi- 
sions, leading  different  ways  in  gradual  sweeps,  each  separation  be- 
ing formed  by  a  projecting  clump  of  shrubbery  work,  or  group  of 
trees,  Sec.  and  each  division  of  the  walk  is  conducted  by  such  varied 
serpentine  turns,  as  soon  to  be  concealed  from  the  other,  by  the  in- 
tervening compartments. 

Sometimes,  similar  to  the  ancient  designs,  a  spacious  gravel  walk 
is  extended  in  a  perpendicular  line  immediately  from  the  front  of 
the  house,  dividing  the  lawn,  or  extended  on  both  boundaries  and 
in  other  directions,  with  a  wide  border  on  each  side,  either  straight 
or  sometimes  a  little  serpentined,  and  planted  with  the  most  curious 
low  flowering  shrubs,  ever-greens,  and  herbaceous  flowering  plants. 

All  these  gravel-walks  should  be  laid  with  the  best  gravel,  six  or 
eight  inches  deep,  at  least ;  but  if  more  the  better. 

All  the  open  grass-spaces  may  be  considered  as  grass-walks, 
whether  formed  in  the  manner  of  walks,  or  as  breaks  or  divisions 
between  the  various  plantations,  all  of  which  serving  both  for 
communication  to  different  parts,  and  to  render  the  ground  more 
rurally  ornamental,  and  for  occasional  walking  in  dry  weather  in 
summer  ;  but  some  tracts  of  considerable  width  and  length,  formed 
into  grass-walks,  leading  to  different  divisions,  having  each  side 
bounded  with  clumps  of  trees,  shrubs,  and  flowers,  gives  an  air 
of  grandeur  to  the  place ;  allotting  smaller  breaks,  or  opens  of 
grass,  branching  off  between  the  plantation  compartments,  as  for- 
merly mentioned. 

The  grass  groimd  may  be  formed,  either  by  sowing  grass  seed, 
or  by  laying  it  with  turf,  cut  from  some  common  ;  but  in  extensive 
works  turfing  the  whole  would  be  an  endless  expense  ;  therefore 


JAN.]  FLOWER-GARDEN.  61 

seed  is  the  most  eligible  for  the  principal  spaces  in  very  large 
gardens. 

Water  being  so  ornamental  in  all  garden  designs,  no  pains 
should  be  spared  to  introduce  it  where  possible ;  but  where  it  ad- 
mits of  a  constant  running  stream,  from  some  adjacent  upper 
spring,  its  beauties  may  be  rendered  admirably  fine,  as  it  may  be 
conducted  in  meanders  through  the  plantation,  so  as  to  effect  a  beau- 
tiful assemblage  of  verdure  and  water  together  ;  and  if  it  should  be 
continued  to  any  considerable  length,  one  or  more  ornamental 
Chinese  bridges,  may  be  carried  over  it  at  convenient  places,  which 
will  have  a  beautiful  effect,  and  serve  for  communication  with  the 
opposite  divisions,  on  each  side  of  the  rivulet. 

Cascades,  and  other  water-falls,  have  also  a  fine  effect,  where 
there  is  a  constant  plentiful  stream,  and  the  situation  proper  to 
give  the  water  a  due  fall,  from  a  higher  to  a  lower  part,  upon  a 
parcel  of  rugged  stones,  to  increase  the  noise,  and  break  and  dis- 
perse the  water. 

In  some  grounds,  by  their  natural  situations,  water  may  be  ob- 
tained at  a  moderate  expense  ;  as  sometimes  a  contiguous  vale,  or 
meadow,  bounded  by  rising  ground,  and  with  a  brook  or  rivulet 
constantly  running  through  it,  may  be  easily  thrown  into  the  most 
agreeble  form  ;  and  sometimes  large  springs  issuing  from  an  upper 
ground,  and  running  down  a  moderate  descent  between  two  rising 
grounds,  to  some  vale  below,  may  either  form  one  entire  lake, 
&c.  or  be  contrived,  hy  making  proper  heads  at  distances,  to  form 
several  lakes  strung  together,  as  it  were,  one  above  another,  up  to 
the  beginning  of  the  spring;  each  head  may  form  a  beautiful  water- 
fall, or  cascade ;  having  the  rising  grounds  on  each  side  embellished 
with  plantation  clumps. 

Lakes  and  artificial  rivers  may  also  be  contrived  in  a  flat  or  level 
ground,  where  there  are  any  contiguous  brooks  that  can  be  con- 
ducted to  supply  them  with  water. 

All  pieces  of  water  should  generally  be  contrived  in  a  natural 
imitation,  as  much  as  the  situation  will  admit ;  and  its  boundary  on 
all  sides  should  be  grass  ground  to  some  codsiderable  width,  sloped 
off  as  easy  as  possible,  corresponding  with  the  other  adjacent  grass 
ground,  to  admit  of  a  prospect  of  the  water  at  some  distance. 

On  the  verges  of  large  compartments  of  water,  some  Babylonian 
or  Weeping  Willows,  disposed  in  particular  situations,  singly  at 
distances,  sometimes  in  concave  and  projecting  parts,  terminations, 
fcc.  will  have  a  very  agreeable  effect  in  their  long,  bending,  arched 
branches,  and  numerous  pendulous  shoots,  suspended  over  the 
water,  in  a  loose  waving  manner,  sometimes  sweeping  the  surface 
thereof;  and  when  arrived  to  some  considerable  growth  in  their 
numerous  low  pendent  branches,  suspended  all  around,  display  an 
air  of  peculiar  solemn  grandeur. 

The  various  compartments  of  ground  intended  for  the  different 
plantations,  should  be  digged  or  trenched  for  the  reception  of  the 
plants  ;  particularly  for  all  plantations  of  shrubbery,  and  wilderness 
quarters,  flower  compartments,  &c.  and  the  ground  for  clumps 
should  if  not  thought  top  expensive,  be  raised  above  the  common 


62  THE  PLEASURE,  OR 

level,  in  a  gentle  swell ;  especially  all  detached  compartments,  such  a* 
shrubery  clu  m  ps,  and  flower  partitions ;  and  most  other  detached  com- 
partments of  ground,  for  any  kind  of  ornamental  planting  in  gardens. 
These  should  generally  be  raised  in  a  moderate  rounding  swell,  gra- 
dually from  each  side  to  the  middle ;  or  for  any  continued  side  plan- 
tation, it  may  be  raised  in  a  gentle  slope  ;  for  the  swelling  and  sloping 
figure  always  strikes  the  eye  the  most  agreeably,  as  well  as  shows 
the  plants  to  the  best  advantage. 

But  where  intended  to  have  groves  of  stately  trees,  or  any  straight 
ranges  of  trees,  either  single,  or  double  lines,  forming  a  walk  or 
avenue,  it  is  most  in  character  to  dispose  them  all  on  grass  ground  ; 
in  which  they  will  appear  most  rural  and  beautiful, 

Likewise  elegant  ornamental  trees,  both  as  single  standards,  and 
in  detached  groups,  or  clumps,  appear  the  most  beautiful,  when  dis- 
posed on  spacious  openings  of  grass  ground. 

All  the  plantation  compartments  of  shrubbery,  wilderness,  &c. 
should  be  planted  with  some  considerable  variety  of  different  sorts 
of  trees,  shrubs,  and  flowers,  artfully  disposed  in  varied  arrange- 
ments ;  the  tallest  behind,  the  lowest  forward,  and  the  different  sorts 
so  intermixed,  as  to  display  a  beautiful  diversity  of  foliage  and 
flowers,  disposing  the  more  curious  kinds  contiguous  to  the  princi- 
pal walks  and  lawns. 

For  a  list  of  the  different  sorts  of  trees,  shrubs,  &c.  proper  for 
•embellishing  the  several  divisions,  see  the  catalogues  of  DECIDUOUS 
TREES,  and  EVER-GREENS,  annexed  to  this  work. 

Observing,  that  as  the  trees  and  shrubs  are  of  two  different 
tribes,  deciduous,  and  ever-green  kinds,  those  of  each  tribe  should 
be  mostly  planted  in  separate  clumps,  in  which,  they  will  effect 
the  most  agreeable  variety ;  and  in  some  places  may  exhibit  clumps 
composed  of  both  sorts,  to  cause  the  greater  diversity  ;  and  many 
of  the  most  conspicuous  deciduous  compartments  maybe  embellished 
towards  the  fronts,  with  some  showy  ever-greens,  thinly  dispersed  ; 
which  will  appear  ornamental  and  lively  in  winter,  when  the  deci- 
duous plants  are  destitute  of  leaves. 

In  planting  the  several  shrubbery  clumps,  Sec.  some  may  be 
entirely  of  trees  ;  but  the  greater  part  an  assemblage  of  trees  and 
shrubs  together  ;  some  entirely  of  the  low  shrub  kind,  in  different 
situations,  between,  and  in  front  of  the  larger  growths ;  likewise 
should  intersperse  most  of  the  shrubbery  and  wilderness  compart- 
ments, with  a  variety  of  hardy  herbaceous  flowery  plants  of  differ- 
ent growths,  having  also  here  and  there  clumps  entirely  of  herbaceous 
perennials:  the  distribution  or  arrangement  of  the  clumps,  and 
other  divisions  of  the  different  kinds,  both  trees,  shrubs,  and  flowers, 
should  be  so  diversified,  as  to  exhibit  a  proper  contrast,  and  a  cu- 
rious variation  of  the  general  scene. 

And  in  the  disposing  the  various  trees,  shrubs,  and  other  plants 
in  their  respecthe  compartments,  observe  for  the  most  part,  to 
place  the  tallest  towards  the  middle  or  back  part,  and  the  lower, 
forward  towards  the  front,  according  to  their  natural  stature  of 
growth;  observing  also  to  intermix  the  different  sorts  in  each 
clump,  &c.  in  such  order,  as  to  display  a  diversity  of  different 
foliage  and  flowers,  as  aforesaid,  as  well  as  exhibit  a  conspicuous 


JAN.]  FLOWER-GARDEN.  33 

variety.  Likewise  placing  the  various  sorts  at  such  proportionable 
distances  and  dispositions,  according  to  their  various  growths,  as 
each  may  have  full  scope  to  spread  its  head ;  and  so  as  the  pros- 
pect of  one,  may  be  no  interruption  or  impediment  to  the  growth 
and  appearance  of  another,  but  all  so  judiciously  arranged  as  to  set 
off  each  other,  and  appear  distinct,  and  to  proper  advantage  from 
the  contiguous  lawns,  walks,  and  other  divisions. 

In  planting  any  continued  or  running  plantation,  where  shady 
walks  are  designed,  particular  care  is  requisite  in  arranging  a  due 
share  of  the  taller  trees  and  shrubs  nearer  the  walks  and  in  such 
order  as  to  produce,  the  desired  effect ;  particularly  in  the  continued 
plantation  of  shrubbery  work  around  the  outward  boundary,  and 
other  running  plantations. 

These  plantations  for  shady  walks,  are  highly  necessary  to  retire 
to  occasionally,  for  shelter  from  the  various  changes  and  injuries 
of  the  weather ;  they  afford  shade  from  the  scorching  rays  of  the 
summer's  sun,  shelter  from  tempestuous  winds  and  cold  blasts, 
and  opportunity  for  private  and  contemplative  walking,  almost  at 
all  seasons  of  the  year. 

But  where  very  close  and  gloomy  shade  is  required  in  any  par- 
ticular parts  for  diversity,  some  trees  and  tall  shrubs,  should  be 
arranged  nearer  to  the  verge  of  the  walks,  backed  and  fronted 
with  a  variety  of  hardy  shrubs,  in  such  order  as  to  produce  the 
desired  effect. 

The  planting  in  groves  and  avenues  should  consist  principally 
of  the  tree  kind,  and  such  as  are  of  straight  and  handsome  growth, 
with  the  most  branchy,  full,  regular  heads,  and  may  be  both  of  the 
deciduous  and  ever-green  tribes  ;  but  generally  arranged  separately  : 
groves  and  avenues,  should  always  be  in  some  spacious  open  space, 
formed  into  grass-ground,  either  before  or  after  planting  the  trees ; 
and  in  planting  the  groves,  it  is  most  eligible  to  arrange  the  trees  in 
lines,  in  some  places  straight  rows,  others  in  gentle  bendings,  or 
easy  sweeps,  having  the  rows  at  some  considerable  distance,  that 
the  trees  may  have  full  scope  to  display  their  branchy  heads  regu- 
larly around ;  and  in  some  places  may  have  close  groves  to  form 
a  perfect  shade. 

As  to  avenues  and  walks  of  trees,  they  may  be  formed  either 
entirely  of  deciduous  trees,  or  of  ever-greens ;  but  the  deciduous 
kinds  are  in  most  estimation  for  this  purpose :  however,  avenues 
and  grass  walks,  planted  with  fine  ever-green  trees,  make  a  beau- 
tiful appearance,  and  will  always  command  admiration.  In  both 
sorts,  the  trees  are  most  commonly  disposed  in  rows,  one  on  each 
side  of  the  avenue,  though  sometimes  grand  walks  of  trees,  may 
be  both  in  single  straight  lines,  and  in  double  rows,  to  exhibit 
the  greater  variety  ;  planting  the  trees  generally,  both  in  avenues 
and  walks,  at  proper  distances,  to  have  full  scope  to  branch  out 
regularly  around  and  display  their  beautiful  heads  and  foliage. 

Thickets  may  be  composed  of  all  sorts  of  hardy  deciduous  trees 
planted  close  and  promiscuously,  and  with  various  common  shrubs 
interspersed  between  them,  as  underwood,  to  make  them  more 
or  less  close  in  different  parts,  as  the  designer  may  think  proper. 


64  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [JAN. 

They  may  also  be  of  ever-green  trees,  particularly  of  the  pine  and 
fir  kinds,  interspersed  with  various  low-growing  ever-green  shrubs. 

In  some  open  spaces  of  grass-ground,  such  as  spacious  open 
lawns,  or  other  considerable  open  fields,  See,  you  should  dispose 
some  of  the  most  beautiful  trees  and  elegant  shrubs  detached,  both 
separately  as  standards  or  single  objects ;  and  in  groups  or  assem- 
blages, from  two  or  three,  to  five,  ten,  or  more  in  different  groups 
or  clumps  ;  some  irregularly,  others  in  curves,  straight  lines,  Sec. 
for  variety;  arranging  both  single  standards,  and  groups,  a  considera- 
ble distance  asunder,  not  to  obstruct  the  prospect,  and  at  such 
varied  distances  as  if  they  had  grown  there  by  chance. 

It  very  frequently  happens,  that  on  the  spot  or  tract,  which  is 
designed  for  a  pleasure-ground,  are  found  large  stately  trees  of 
considerable  standing,  properly  situated  to  be  introduced  into  the 
design  ;  and  sometimes  numbers  in  suitable  assemblages,  for  con- 
stituting groves,  or  thickets,  and  some  for  single  standing  groups  or 
clumps,  &o.  which  will  prove  of  considerable  advantage  ;  these 
should  be  preserved  with  the  utmost  care,  as  it  would  require  many 
years  to  form  the  like  with  young  plantations  ;  and  although  the 
trees  should  stand  ever  so  close,  irregular,  or  straggling,  with  proper 
address  in  thinning  and  regulating  them  where  necessary,  they 
may  be  made  to  become  beautifully  ornamental  to  the  place,  and 
to  prevent  a  considerable  expense. 

In  some  spacious  pleasure-grounds  various  light  ornamental 
buildings  and  erections  are  introduced,  as  ornaments  to  particular 
departments  ;  such  as  temples,  bowers,  banquetting  houses,  alcoves, 
grottos,  rural  seats,  cottages,  fountains,  obelisks,  statues,  and  other 
edifices  ;  these  and  the  like  are  usually  erected  in  the  different 
parts,  in  openings  between  the  divisions  of  the  ground,  and  contigu- 
ous to  the  terminations  of  grand  walks,  Sec, 

Some  of  these  kinds  of  ornaments,  however,  being  very  expen- 
sive, are  rather  sparingly  introduced :  sometimes  a  temple  is  pre- 
sented at  the  termination  of  a  grand  walk  or  opening,  or  sometimes 
a  temple,  banqueting-house,  or  bower  is  erected  in  the  centre  of 
some  spacious  opening  or  grass-ground  in  the  internal  divisions  ; 
other  parts  present  alcoves,  bowers,  grottos,  rural-seats,  Sec.  at  the 
termination  of  different  walks  ;  and  rural  seats  are  placed  in  diffe- 
rent parts,  by  the  sides  of  long  walks,  under  the  shade  of  trees,  Sec. 
for  places  of  rest. 

Fountains  and  statues,  are  generally  introduced  in  the  middle  of 
spacious  opens ;  statues  are  also  often  placed  at  the  terminations 
of  particular  walks,  sometimes  in  woods,  thickets,  and  recesses,  up- 
on mounts,  terraces,  and  other  stations,  according  to  what  they  are 
intended  ro  represent. 

Sometimes,  also,  there  are  exhibited  root -houses,  rock  and  shell- 
work,  ruins,  and  other  rustic  devices,  representing  hermitages, 
caves,  and  the  like  ;  such  being  generally  stationed  in  some  retired 
or  private  situation  ;  these  kinds  of  buildings  being  commonly  arch- 
ed or  vaulted,  are  for  the  most  part  covered  with  a  coat  of  earth 
and  turfed  with  grass,  so  as  to  appear  like  a  sort  of  mount  or  hil- 
lock, and  planted  with  some  little  clumps  of  shrubs,  Sec.  having  pri* 
vate  walks  leading  to  the  entrance. 


JAN.]  FLOWER-GARDEN.  55 

Likewise  in  some  parts  are  exhibited  artificial  rock-work,  conti- 
guous to  some  grotto,  fountain,  rural  piece  of  water,  Sec.  and  plant- 
ed with  a  variety  of  saxatile  plants,  or  such  as  grow  naturally  on 
rocks  and  mountains. 

Ornamental  bridges  over  artificial  rivers,  or  any  rural  piece  of 
water  in  some  magnificent  opening,  so  as  to  admit  of  a  prospect 
thereof,  at  some  distance  from  the  habitation,  have  charming  effects. 

Let  it  be  particularly  remarked,  that,  although  water  when  exhi- 
bited with  due  taste  and  handsome  design,  adds  considerably  to  the 
beauty  of  pleasure-grounds  ;  yet,  in  districts  subject  to  fluxes,  inter- 
mittent fevers,  or  other  diseases,  occasioned  by  the  effluvia  arising 
from  marshes  and  stagnant  water,  it  ought  to  be  cautiously  intro- 
duced ;  a  due  regard  to  health  will  of  course  prevent  its  introduc- 
tion, especially  in  large  sheets,  where  likely  to  become  stagnant. 
In  fact,  when  such  are  admitted,  they  should  always  be  situated  in  a 
clay  or  gravelly  soil,  and  possess  a  sufficient  head  or  stream,  to  ren- 
der the  change  of  their  contents  frequent. 

A  Foss  or  ha-ha,  is  often  formed  at  the  termination  of  a  spacious 
lawn,  grand  walk,  avenue,  or  other  principal  part  or  parts  of  the 
pleasure  ground,  both  to  extend  the  prospect  into  the  adjacent 
fields  and  country,  and  give  these  particular  parts  of  the  ground  an 
air  of  larger  extent  than  they  really  have  ;  as  at  a  distance  nothing  of 
this  kind  of  fence  is  seen,  so  that  the  adjacent  fields,  plantations, 
&c.  appear  to  be  connected  with,  or  but  a  continuation  of  the  plea- 
sure ground. 

A  Foss  or  ha-ha,  is  a  sunk  fence,  ditch -like,  five  or  six  feet  deep, 
and  ten,  twenty,  or  more  wide  ;  and  is  made  in  different  ways  ac- 
cording to  the  nature  of  the  ground.  One  sort  is  formed  with  a 
nearly  upright  side  next  the  pleasure  ground,  five,  six,  or  seven  feet 
deep,  faced  with  a  wall  of  brick,  or  stone,  or  strong  post  and  plank- 
ing? &c the  other  side  is  made  sloping  outward  gradually  from  the 

bottom  of  said  wall,  till  it  terminates  as  near  a  level  as  possible. 

Another  kind  of  foss  is  formed  with  both  sides  sloping,  and  in  per- 
pendicular depth  from  four  to  five  or  six  feet,  having  a  fence  near 
that  height  arranged  along  the  bottom,  formed  of  strong  paring,  or 
any  kind  of  palisado-work ;  the  sides  may  be  sloped  gradually  from 
the  bottom  to  ten  or  twenty  feet  width,  or  more  at  top,  but  sloped 
more  to  the  field  side  than  to  the  other. 

It  being  absolutely  necessary  to  have  the  whole  of  the  pleasure 
ground  surrounded  with  a  good  fence  of  some  kind,  as  a  defence 
against  cattle,  &cc.  a  foss  being  a  kind  of  concealed  fence,  will  an- 
swer that  purpose  where  it  can  conveniently  be  made,  without  in- 
terrupting the  view  of  such  neighbouring  parts  as  are  beautified  by 
art  or  nature,  and  at  the  same  time  affect  an  appearance  that  these 
are  only  a  continuation  of  the  pleasure-ground,  Over  the  foss  in 
various  parts  may  be  made  Chinese  and  other  curious  and  fanciful 
bridges,  which  will  have  a  romantic  and  pleasing  effect. 

Of  Ancient  Designs. 

Designs,  in  ancient  gardening,  for  a  Pleasure-ground,  consulted 
uniformity  in  every  part,  exact  levels,  straight  lines,  parallels, 


66  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [JAN. 

squares,  angles,  circles,  and  other  geometrical  figures,  &c.  all 
corresponding  in  the  greatest  regularity,  to  effect  an  exact  symme- 
try and  proportion. 

Straight  walks  were  every  where  observed,  and  all  arranged  pa- 
rallel, and  crossing  one  another  in  regular  intersections  ;  generally 
a  grand  one  of  gravel  was  extended  in  a  straight  line  immediately 
from  the  front  of  the  main  house,  having  each  side  verged  either 
with  a  regular  straight  border  of  earth,  furnished  with  a  variety  of 
flowers,  &c.  and  sometimes  having  a  verge  of  grass  three  or  four 
1  feet  wide,  then  a  border  embellished  as  above  with  various  plants  ; 
this  main  walk  being  often  intersected  by  others  at  regular  distances, 
so  as  sometimes  to  divide  the  space  immediately  in  the  front  of  the 
house,  into  four,  six,  or  more  equal  squares,  some  of  which  were 
sometimes  formed  into  parterres,  sometimes  only  naked  grass- 
plats,  or  other  uniform  divisions ;  and  often  the  whole  garden  was 
thus  divided  by  straight,  parallel,  and  intersecting  walks,  into  many 
regular  squares  and  angles,  without  any  variation. 

Grand  parterres  were  very  commonly  presented  immediately  on 
the  front  of  the  main  house,  having  a  grand  walk  of  grass  or  gravel 
directly  from  the  house  through  the  middle,  or  dividing  the  parterre 
ground  into  two  divisions. 

A  parterre,  is  a  spacious  level  plot  of  ground,  divided  into  many 
partitions,  of  different  figures  and  dimensions  ;  by  means  of  edgings 
or  lines  of  dwarf-box,  &c.  or  by  verges  of  grass-turf,  and  tracks  of 
sand,  fine  gravel,  shell,  and  scroll-work,  &c. 

These  works  were  in  great  estimation  in  ancient  gardening,  and 
were  commonly  situated,  directly  in  front  of  the  house,  generally  the 
whole  width  of  the  front,  or  sometimes  more. 

The  general  figure  of  a  parterre,  is  an  oblong  or  long  square  ; 
because  by  the  rules  of  Perspective,  or  the  natural  declension  of  the 
visual  rays  in  opticks,  a  long  square  sinks  almost  to  a  square,  and 
an  exact  square  appears  much  less  so  than  it  really  is,  when 
viewed  at  a  distance;  therefore  parterres  were  generally  made 
twice  as  long  as  broad. 

These  were  bounded  by  a  long  bed,  or  border  of  earth,  and  the 
internal  space  within,  divided  into  various  little  partitions,  or  inclo- 
sures,  artfully  disposed  into  different  figures,  corresponding  with 
one  another,  such  as  long  squares,  triangles,  circles,  various  scroll- 
works, flourishes  of  embroidery,  and  many  ether  fanciful  devices ; 
all  of  which  figures,  were  edged  with  dwarf-box,  &c.  with  interven- 
ing alleys  of  turf,  fine  sand,  shells,  &c. 

The  partitions  or  beds  were  planted  with  the  choicest  kinds  of 
flowers ;  but  no  large  plants,  to  hide  the  different  figures,  for  such, 
were  intended  as  a  decoration  for  the  whole  place,  long  after  the 
season  of  the  flowers  was  past. 

Though  parterres  in  general  are  now  become  rather  unfashion- 
able, a  little  of  that  kind  of  work,  might  still  be  permitted  for  variety 
sake,  though  not  immediately  in  front  of  the  house  as  heretofore. 
A  spacious  lawn,  bounded  with  rural  shrubberies,  is  the  most 
eligible  situation  for  such ;  but  a  plain  parterre  of  a  moderate  ex- 
tent, either  formed  with  lines  of  box,  or  with  turf,  might  be  intro- 


JAN.]  FLOWER-GARDEN.  57 

duced  in  some  of  the  more  internal  parts,  and  distributed  either 
into  plain  or  complex  departments,  or  beds  of  earth  for  flowers,  so 
as  to  answer  the  purpose  of  a  flower-garden,  for  the  most  curious 
sorts ;  it  will  have  an  agreeable  effect  in  forming  a  contrast  with 
the  more  rural  scenes. 

In  the  more  interior  parts,  large  tracts  of  ground  were  frequent- 
ly divided  by  straight  grass-walks,  into  many  square  and  angular 
divisions  of  wilderness,  each  division  surrounded  by  regular  hedges 
of  various  kinds  of  trees  and  shrubs,  kept  in  uniform  order  by 
annual  clippings ;  having  the  interior  part  of  each  quarter  planted 
with  trees  and  shrubs,  which  were  in  a  manner  concealed  by  the 
hedges  from  persons  in  the  adjacent  walks,  so  that  hardly  any  thing 
but  close  hedges,  the  same  thing  over  again,  appeared  to  view,  on 
each  side  of  the  walks ;  and  all  the  walks  generally  led  into  uniform 
openings  of  grass,  particularly  to  a  grand  circle  or  octagon,  forming 
some  central  part. 

Frequently  there  were  partitions  of  regular  hedge-work,  particu- 
larly of  ever-greens,  surrounding  large  squares  of  grass-ground, 
designed  as  pieces  of  garden  ornaments,  the  hedge-work  being 
often  formed  into  various  uniform  devices ;  such  as  pilasters,  ar- 
cades or  arches,  porticoes,  galleries,  amphitheatres,  pavilions,  cabi- 
nets, bowers,  pediments,  niches,  and  cornices  ;  likewise  regular  ar- 
bors, having  the  sides  formed  into  arcades,  and  sometimes  the  top 
vaulted  ;  and  with  various  other  formal  imitations,  all  performed  in 
hedge-work,  which  were  often  so  arranged  and  trained,  as  to  effect  an 
air  of  grandeur  and  art.  High  hedges  were  also  in  great  repute,  as 
boundaries  to  grand  walks  and  avenues,  sometimes  carried  up  from 
fifteen  or  twenty,  to  thirty  or  forty  feet  high  ;  sometimes  trained 
perfectly  close  from  the  very  bottom  to  top,  others  open  below  a 
considerable  way,  and  formed  into  regular  arches,  Sec.  all  of  which 
sometimes  appeared  magnificent  and  ornamental,  but  were  trouble- 
some and  expensive  to  keep  in  order,  on  account  of  their  great 
height :  however,  all  sorts  of  hedge-work  was  generally  esteemed 
so  ornamental  in  ancient  gardening,  that  almost  every  division  was 
surrounded  with  regular  hedges  of  one  sort  or  other,  presenting 
themselves  to  view  in  every  part,  shutting  out  all  other  objects  from 
sight ;  but  in  modern  designs,  such  hedges  are  rarely  admitted  j 
every  compartment  of  the  plantation  being  left  open  to  view,  from 
the  walks  and  lawns,  in  order  to  afford  a  full  prospect  of  the  various 
trees,  shrubs,  and  flowers,  which  consequently  are  more  beautiful 
than  continued  ranges  of  close  hedges  ;  but  for  the  sake  of  variety, 
a  little  ornamental  hedge-work  might  still  be  introduced  in  some 
particular  parts  of  the  ground. 

Labyrinths  or  mazes  of  hedge-work,  in  the  manner  of  a  wilder- 
ness, also  prevailed  in  many  large  gardens. 

A  Labyrinth,  is  a  maze  or  sort  of  intricate  wildernessrplanta- 
tion,  abounding  with  hedges  and  walks,  formed  into  many  windings 
and  turnings,  leading  to  one  common  centre,  extremely  difficult  to 
find  out ;  designed  in  large  pleasure-grounds  by  way  of  amuse- 
ment. 


68  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [!A». 

It  is  generally  formed  with  hedges,  commonly  in  double  rows, 
leading  in  various  intricate  turnings,  backward  and  forward,  with  in- 
tervening plantations,  and  gravel-walks  alternately  between  hedge 
and  hedge  ;  the  great  aim  is  to  have  the  walk  contrived  in  so  many 
mazy,  intricate  windings,  to  and  fro,  that  a  person  may  have  much 
difficulty  in  finding  out  the  centre,  by  meeting  with  as  many  stops 
and  disappointments  as  possible ;  for  he  must  not  cross,  or  break 
through  the  hedges  ;  so  that  in  a  well  contrived  labyrinth,  a  strang- 
er will  often  entirely  loose  himself,  so  as  not  to  find  his  way  to  the 
centre,  nor  out  again. 

As  to  plans  of  them,  it  is  impossible  to  describe  such,  by 
words,  any  further  than  the  above  hints,  and  their  contrivance  must 
principally  depend,  on  the  ingenuity  of  the  designer. 

But  as  to  the  hedges,  walks,  and  trees  ;  the  hedges  are  usually 
made  of  hornbeam,  beech,  elm,  or  any  other  kind  that  can  be  kept 
neat  by  clipping.  The  walks  should  be  five  feet  wide  at  least,  laid 
with  gravel,  neatly  rolled,  and  kept  clean ;  and  the  trees  and  shrubs 
to  form  a  thicket  of  wood  between  the  hedges,  may  be  of  any  hardy 
kinds  of  the  deciduous  tribe,  interspersed  with  some  ever-greens ; 
and  in  the  middle  of  the  labyrinth  should  be  a  spacious  open,  orna- 
mented with  some  rural  seats  and  shady  bowers,  Sec. 

Sometimes  small  labyrinths  are  formed  with  box-edgings,  and 
borders  for  plants,  with  handsome  narrow  walks  between,  in  imita- 
tion of  the  larger  ones ;  which  have  a  very  pleasing  and  amusing 
effect  in  small  gardens. 

Detached  trained  figures  of  ever-greens,  as  yew,  cypress,  juniper, 
holly,  box,  and  various  other  close-growing  ever-green  plants,  were 
also  very  predominant  in  ancient  designs,  and  genarally  disposed 
in  regular  ranges  along  the  borders  and  other  verges  of  grand 
walks ;  being  trained  by  clipping  into  various  formal  shapes,  as 
pyramids,  obelisks,  columns,  &c.  in  a  variety  of  forms,  with  other 
formal  figures,  all  placed  in  the  most  exact  arrangement.  Some 
also  were  often  placed  singly  in  the  midst  of  some  circle,  octagon, 
or  other  open  space,  and  were  all  kept  hi  order  by  clipping;  once  or 
twice  every  summer,  and  were  considered  as  great  ornaments. 

Straight  rows  of  the  most  beautiful  trees,  forming  long  avenues 
and  grand  walks,  were  in  great  estimation,  considered  as  great  or- 
naments, and  no  considerable  estate  and  eminent  pleasure-ground 
were  without  several  of  them. 

Regular  grass  slopes,  also,  greatly  prevailed  in  most  old  gardens, 
as  ornaments  to  particular  divisions  ;  sometimes  such  were  formed 
at  the  beginning  of  some  rising  ground,  and  sometimes  at  the  ter- 
mination or  lower  part ;  frequently  canals,  and  other  pieces  of  wa- 
ter, were  bounded  by  a  range  of  them,  and  likewise,  the  sides  of 
terraces  and  other  elevated  places.  Moderate  grass-slopes,  also, 
often  formed  a  boundary  to  some  open  spaces,  such  as  bowling- 
greens,  flower-garden,  &c.  forming  a  sort  of  terrace  all  around, 
and  frequently  having  a  gravel-walk  at  top ;  these  slopes  were 
always  formed  with  the  greatest  regularity  and  exactness,  which  in 
some  situations  were  very  ornamental. 


JAN.]  TLOWER-GARDEN.  69 

Regular  terraces  either  on  natural  eminences  or  forced  ground 
were  often  introduced  by  way  of  ornament,  for  the  sake  of  pros- 
pect, and  of  enjoying  the  fresh  air  in  summer  ;  they  were  of  various 
dimensions  with  respect  to  height,  from  two,  to  ten,  or  twenty  feet, 
according  to  the  nature  of  the  situation  and  purpose  they  were  design- 
ed for  ;  some  being  ranged  singly,  others  double,  treble,  or  several, 
one  above  another,  on  the  side  of  some  considerable  rising  ground 
in  theatrical  arrangement. 

The  perpetual  show  of  stiff  formality,  displayed  by  this  kind  of 
fancy,  has  induced  many  to  discontinue  it ;  but  some  of  these  run 
into  the  contrary  extreme,  by  excluding  all  formal  regularity  and 
uniform  appearances  ;  and  substituting  various  dissimilar  arrange- 
ments, in  the  formation  of  the  different  compartments,  in  fancied 
imitation  of  natural  rurality  as  much  as  possible. 

However,  for  sake  of  diversity,  some  of  the  more  elegant  regular 
works,  ought  still  to  be  admitted,  which  would  form  a  beautiful  con- 
trast with  the  general  rural  improvements,  and  diversify  the  whole 
scene,  so  as  to  have  a  most  enchanting  effect. 

General  Care  and  Culture. 

With  respect  to  the  general  culture  of  the  ground,  neatness  must 
ever  be  observed  in  every  part ;  the  walks,  lawns,  shrubbery, 
clumps,  See.  and  the  several  compartments  of  trees,  shrubs,  and 
flowers,  kept  duly  furnished  with  a  proper  stock  of  the  various 
plants. 

In  the  provision  of  plants,  both  of  the  tree  and  shrub  kinds,  let 
it  be  remarked,  that  when  such  are  taken  out  of  the  woods  or 
swamps,  and  planted  in  open  exposures,  they  seldom  succeed ; 
therefore,  the  better  way  will  be,  to  propogate  them  in  your  nurse- 
ry, either  by  cuttings,  (of  such  as  grow  that  way)  or  by  seed ;  and 
when  arrived  there  at  a  proper  size,  they  may  be  transplanted  into 
the  pleasure-ground  or  elsewhere  with  success. 

The  gravel-walks  must  always  be  kept  free  from  weeds,  and  all 
sorts  of  litter,  and  should  be  rolled  at  least  once  every  week  or  ten 
days,  in  summer,  particularly  the  principal  walks;  previously  trim- 
ming the  edges,  especially  if  verged  with  grass-ground,  and  sweep- 
ing off  all  loose  litter. 

The  rolling  in  summer  should  be  occasionally  performed  imme- 
diately after  showers  of  rain,  particularly  the  first  after  any  continu- 
ance of  very  dry  weather,  to  settle  all  the  loose  parts  compact  and 
smooth ;  in  winter,  the  rolling  should  also  be  occasionally  perform-^ 
ed;  observing,  that  it  is  improper  to  break  up  the  walks  at  that 
season  in  rough  ridges,  as  often  practised,  to  remain  in  that  unsight- 
ly manner  till  spring;  whereby  they  are  rendered  useless  at  a 
time  when  there  is  hardly  any  dry,  or  safe  walking  upon  grass,  or 
other  parts ;  besides,  they  have  a  disagreeable  and  slovenly  appear- 
ance. 

I  would  therefore  advise,  to  let  the  walks  remain  undisturbed,  at 
least  until  spring,  when,  if  the  surface  be  foul  or  mossy,  they  may 
be  broken  up,  the  top  turned  to  the  bottom,  and  immediately  raked 
and  rolled,  and  rendered  in  a  fit  condition  for  walking  on. 


70  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [JAy, 

All  the  principal  grass-walks,  and  lawns,  within  the  limits  of 
the  pleasure  ground,  especially  such  parts  as  are  intended  for 
walking  on,  should  also  be  kept  perfectly  neat  by  frequent  mowing 
in  summer,  to  keep  the  grass  short,  close  and  fine ;  give  also  occa- 
sional rolling,  both  to  clean  up  the  scattered  worm-casts,  and  to 
render  the  surface  smooth  and  firm.  Always  make  choice  of  a 
dewy  morning,  or  moist  weather,  for  the  work  of  mowing ;  as  the 
short  grass  will  cut  much  better  then,  than  when  dry  :  be  careful 
to  have  each  mowing,  performed  with  an  even  hand,  not  to  score, 
or  leave  the  mark  of  the  sythe  at  each  stroke,  which  has  a  most 
disagreeable  appearance,  and  directly  after,  rake  up  all  the  swarths 
of  grass,  into  heaps  and  carry  them  away. 

Rolling  the  grass,  should  also  be  occasionally  performed,'between 
the  times  of  mowing,  in  order  to  continue  the  surface  always, 
firm,  even,  and  of  a  close  smooth  appearance. 

In  extensive  pleasure-grounds,  and  large  extended  lawns,  walks, 
&c.  the  rolling  is  sometimes  done  by  horses,  having  a  very  large 
roller  furnished  with  horse-shafts  ;  and  the  horses'  feet  occasionally 
muffled,  especially  when  the  ground  is  rather  soft,  to  prevent  their 
cutting  the  surface  of  the  grass  in  holes. 

Likewise  keep  all  grass-ground  clear  from  litter,  such  as  fallen 
leaves  of  trees,  &c.  which  may  be  expeditiously  effected  by  a  light 
broom  or  besom  on  a  long  handle. 

The  edges  of  all  principal  grass-walks,  and  those  of  grass-ground 
next  to  gravel-walks  in  particular,  should  always  be  kept  close  and 
even,  and  dressed  once  or  twice  a  year  at  least,  with  an  Edging* 
Iron;  which  ought  to  be  made  of  the  best  steel,  and  kept  very 
sharp :  this  instrument,  is  made  somewhat  in  the  cresent  form, 
and  about  nine  inches  in  diameter,  pretty  much  like  a  saddler's 
cutting-knife,  rounded  below  at  the  edge  part,  and  with  a  socket 
above,  upright  in  the  middle,  in  which  to  fix  a  straight  handle  of 
wood,  about  four  feet  long  ;  with  this  instrument  a  man  can  dress 
as  much  grass-edging  in  a  day,  as  three  men  with  spades,  do  it 
much  neater,  and  without  wasting  the  edges  of  the  borders. 

The  above  dressings  ought  particularly  to  be  given,  previous  to 
turning  the  gravel-walks,  at  other  times  during  the  summer,  the 
edges  may  be  trimmed  occasionally  as  the  grass  grows  rank,  either 
with  a  pair  of  garden-shears,  or  with  shears  made  for  that  purpose, 
exactly  in  the  form  of  sheep-shears,  but  a  little  larger,  and  longer  in 
the  blades,  or  with  the  point  of  a  good  sharp  carving  knife. 

The  shrubbery  plantations,  should  generally  all  be  suffered  to 
take  their  own  natural  growth,  and  branch  out  into  full  heads,  only 
just  giving  a  little  occasional  trimming  to  any  very  irregular 
growths,  such  as  retrenching  or  reducing  any  very  luxuriant  rude 
shoots,  or  considerable  ramblers,  running  wildly  from  all  the  other 
branches.  Cut  out  all  dead  wood  and  keep  all  the  shrubs  from 
entangling  with  one  another,  so  as  the  head  of  each  shrub  may 
appear  distinct,  and  show  itself  to  proper  advantage. 

The  ground  of  the  principal  shrubbery  plantations,  in  which  the 
shrubs  stand  distant,  not  covering  the  surface  should  be  digged  eve- 
ry year,  late  in  autumn,  or  in  spring  j  previously  giving  the  shrubs 


JAN.]  FLOWER-GARDEN.  71 

any  necessary  pruning  as  above  observed;  this  operation  gives 
health  and  vigour  to  the  plants,  kills  weeds,  and  gives  the  place  an 
air  of  culture,  and  a  lively  neat  appearance. 

After  this  general  digging,  the  ground  must  be  kept  clean  from 
weeds  all  summer,  by  occasional  hoeing  in  dry  iveather,  which  with 
a  scuffling-hoe  may  be  expeditiously  performed. 

Particular  care  must  be  taken  of  the  flower  borders,  &c. ;  they 
must  be  neatly  and  carefully  dug  in  autumn,  and  pointed  and  dress- 
ed afresh  in  spring ;  and  according  as  the  various  plants  grow  up, 
let  such  as  need  support  have  sticks  placed  to  preserve  them  up- 
right ;  and  as  the  herbaceous  perennials  and  annuals  have  clone 
flowering  and  their  stalks  decay,  cut  them  down  close,  clearing  off 
all  decayed  leaves  and  other  rubbish. 

All  kinds  of  hedge-work  and  detached  trained  figures  of  ever- 
greens should  be  clipped  twice  a  year. ...that  is  to  say,  in  June  and 
in  September  ;  for  without  this,  they  will  not  have  that  neat  hand- 
some appearance,  that  inspires  admiration  and  does  credit  to  the 
person  under  whose  care  they  are. 

For  further  particulars  see  the  work  under  this  head  in  the  dif- 
ferent months, 

The  JPloiver-Garden. 

A  commodious  piece  of  good  ground,  for  a  flower-garden,  situated 
in  a  convenient  and  well  sheltered  place,  and  well  exposed  to  the 
sun  and  air,  ought  to  be  allotted  for  the  culture  of  the  more  curious 
and  valuable  flowers. 

The  form  of  this  ground  may  be  either  square,  oblong,  or  some- 
what circular ;  having  the  boundary  embellished  with  a  collection 
of  the  most  curious  flowering-shrubs ;  the  interior  part  should  be 
divided  into  many  narrow  beds,  either  oblong,  or  in  the  manner  of 
a  parterre  ;  but  plain  four  feet  wide  beds  arranged  parallel,  having 
two  feet  wide  alleys  between  bed  and  bed,  will  be  found  most  con- 
venient, yet  to  some  not  the  most  fanciful. 

In  either  method,  a  walk  should  be  carried  round  the  outward 
boundary,  leaving  a  border  to  surround  the  whole  ground,  and  with- 
in this,  to  have  the  various  divisions  or  beds,  raising  them  generally 
in  a  gently  rounding  manner,  edging  such  as  you  like  with  dwarf- 
box,  some  with  trift,  pinks,  sisyrinchium,  &c.  by  way  of  variety, 
laying  the  walks  and  alleys  with  the  finest  gravel.  Some  beds  may 
be  neatly  edged  with  boards,  especially  such  as  are  intended  for  the 
finer  sorts  of  bulbs,  Sec. 

In  this  division  you  may  plant  the  finest  hyacinths,  tulips,  poly- 
anthus-narcissus, double  jonquils,  anemones,  ranunculus's,  bul- 
bous-iris's, tuberoses,  scarlet  and  yellow  amaryllis's,  colchicums, 
fritillaries,  crown-imperials,  snowdrops,  crocus's,  lilies  of  various 
sorts,  and  all  the  different  kinds  of  bulbous,  and  tuberous-rooted 
flowers,  which  succeed  in  the  open  ground ;  each  sort  principally 
in  separate  beds,  especially  the  more  choice  kinds,  being  necessary 
both  for  distinction  sake  and  for  the  convenience  of  giving,  such  as 
need  it,  protection  from  inclement  weather ;  but  for  particulars  of 
their  culture,  see  the  respective  articles  in  the  various  months. 


72  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [JAN. 

Likewise  in  this  division  should  be  planted  a  curious  collection 
of  carnations,  pinks,  polyanthus's,  and  many  other  beautiful  sorts, 
arranging  some  of  the  most  valuable  in  beds  separately  ;  others 
may  be  intermixed  in  different  beds,  forming  an  assemblage  of 
various  sorts. 

In  other  beds,  you  may  exhibit  a  variety  of  all  sorts,  both  bul- 
bous, tuberous,  and  fibrous  rooted  kinds,  to  keep  up  a  succession 
of  bloom  in  the  same  beds  during  the  whole  season. 

Here  I  cannot  avoid  remarking,  that  many  flower-gardens,  Sec. 
are  almost  destitute  of  bloom,  during  a  great  part  of  the  season ; 
which  could  be  easily  avoided,  and  a  blaze  of  flowers  kept  up,  both 
in  this  department,  and  in  the  borders  of  the  pleasure-ground, 
from  March  to  November,  by  introducing  from  our  woods  and 
fields,  the  various  beautiful  ornaments  with  which  nature  has  so 
profusely  decorated  them.  Is  it  because  they  are  indigenous,  that 
we  should  reject  them  ?  ought  we  not  rather  to  cultivate  and  im- 
prove them  ?  what  can  be  more  beautiful  than  our  Lobelias,  Orchis', 
Asclepias'  and  Asters  ;  Dracocephalums,  Gerardias,  Monardas  and 
Ipomceas;  Liliums,  Podalyrias,  Rhexias,  Solidagos  and  Hibiscus'; 
Phlox's,  Gentianas,  Spigelias,  Chironias  and  Sisyrinchiums,  Cassias, 
Ophrys',  Coreopsis'  and  Cypripediums  ;  Fumarias,  Violas,  Rudbec- 
kias  and  Liatris';  with  our  charming  Limadorum,  fragrant  Arethusa 
and  a  thousand  other  lovely  plants,  which  if  introduced,  would 
grace  our  plantations,  and  delight  our  senses  ? 

In  Europe  plants  are  not  rejected  because  they  are  indigenous, 
on  the  contrary  they  are  cultivated  with  due  care ;  and  yet  here, 
we  cultivate  many  foreign  trifles,  and  neglect  the  profusion  of 
beauties  so  bountifully  bestowed  upon  us  by  the  hand  of  nature. 

Work  to  be  done  this  Mcnth. 

Prune  such  of  your  ornamental  shrubs,  &c.  as  need  it,  particu- 
larly the  hardy  deciduous  kinds ;  all  decayed,  ill-placed  and  strag- 
gling branches  ought  to  be  cut  off,  close  to  where  they  were  pro- 
duced, and  such  others  shortened,  as  are  growing  in  a  disorderly 
way,  always  taking  great  care  to  form  the  heads  in  a  full  and 
handsome  manner,  that  they  may  appear  well  furnished,  and  display 
the  beauty  of  their  foliage  and  bloom  in  due  season. 

Great  care  should  be  taken  at  this  time  of  the  choicest  kinds 

of  flowering  plants  and  other  tender  kinds  in. pots they  should  be 

carefully  protected  from  severe  frosts,  by  giving  each  sort  suitable 
covering. 

Auriculas. 

The  best  auriculas  in  pots  should  be  well  protected  from  exces- 
sive rains,  snow,  or  sharp  frosts ;  which  will  preserve  them  in 
strength  to  flower  in  great  perfection. 

The  choicest  varieties  of  these  plants  should  always  be  removed 
in  their  pots,  about  the  beginning  of  November,  and  placed  in  frames, 
or  in  a  bed  arched  over  with  hoops,  in  a  warm  dry  situation  in  the 


JAN.]  FLOWER-GARDEN.  73 

full  sun,  where  they  can  be  occasionally  covered  when  the  weather 
is  unfavourable  ;  but  let  the  covers  be  kept  constantly  off  in  the  day- 
time, when  the  weather  is  mild  and  dry. 

Care  of  Carnations. 

Take  great  care  to  protect  your  fine  carnations  that  are  in  pots, 
from,  hard  frost,  excessive  rains,  and  snow ;  for,  notwithstanding  the 
plants  being  hardy  enough  to  stand  the  winter  in  the  open  air,  it  is 
advisable  to  defend  the  choicer  sorts  in  bad  weather,  to  preserve 
them  in  good  strength  for  flowering  in  the  the  greatest  perfection. 

These  pots  should  be  plunged  in  a  raised  bed  of  dry  compost,  in 
the  beginning  of  winter,  and  the  bed  arched  over  low,  with  pliant 
rods  or  hoops,  at  that  time ;  this  will  be  of  great  advantage  to  the 
plants,  if  you  are  careful  to  draw  mats  over  the  arches  when  the 
weather  is  severe. 

But  if  the  pots  were  to  be  placed  in  garden  frames,  it  would  be 
still  better,  if  you  take  care  to  put  the  glasses  over  them  in  rigorous 
weather  and  at  night ;  but  be  careful  to  give  them  as  much  free  air 
as  possible  by  day,  when  the  weather  permits :  either  by  taking  the 
glasses  totally  off,  for  a  few  hours,  or  tilting  them  up  behind, 

Care  of  choice  Hyacinths  and  Tulips. 

In  severe  frosty  weather,  it  would  be  of  beneficial  advantage,  if 
the  beds  wherein  you  have  deposited  the  choicest  kinds  of  hyacinths 
and  tulips,  or  any  other  curious  bulbous  roots,  be  covered  either 
with  an  awning  of  mats,  or,  in  default  thereof,  with  straw,  fern, 
leaves  of  trees,  or  dry  long  litter;  but  it  must  be  removed  as  soon 
as  the  severe  weather  is  over. 

Old  decayed  fine  tan  is  a  good  article  to  cover  hyacinths,  tulips, 
and  other  bulbs  with  ;  it  may  be  laid  on,  one  inch  or  one  inch  and 
half  deep,  immediately  previous  to  the  commencement  of  the 
severe  winter  frost,  and  need  not  be  removed,  as  it  will  keep 
down  the  weeds  in  spring,  and  protect  the  roots  from  intense  heat 
and  drought,  during  the  period  of  their  ripening. 

Ranunculus's  and  Anemones. 

The  beds  or  frames  in  which  are  planted  your  choice  kinds  of 
ranunculus's  and  anemones,  should  be  carefully  protected  from 
frost,  by  laying  tan,  earth  or  litter  round  the  outside  of  the  frames, 
and  carefully  covering  them  at  nights  and  in  severe  weather,  with 
glasses,  or  with  boards  laid  lengthwise  or  across  the  frames,  with 
mats  or  other  covering  on  top,  but  carefully  observing  to  give  them 
plenty  of  air  every  day  that  the  weather  is  tolerable  mild,  for  if  too 
much  confined,  they  will  draw  up  and  be  good  for  nothing. 

Plant  ranunculus's  and  anemones  in  mild,  dry,  open  weather,  if 
you  have  any  now  out  of  the  ground,  and  that  the  frost  will  admit 
of  your  working  it ;  these  now  planted  will  succeed  those  which 
were  put  into  the  ground  in  October  or  November, 

L 


74  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [JAN. 

For  their  reception,  choose  a  dry  situation,  where  the  ground  is 
of  a  light,  rich  nature.  Let  it  be  well  digged,  breaking  the  earth 
fine,  and  form  it  into  beds  of  three  feet  and  a  half  or  four  feet 
wide ;  rake  the  surface  smooth,  and  then  plant  the  roots.  These 
roots  after  planting,  should  be  protected  as  above,  from  severe 
frost,  and  too  much  wet :  either  of  which,  would  at  this  season  ma- 
terially injure  them. 

For  the  particular  method  of  preparing  the  beds,  and  planting  the 
roots,  see  the  work  of  October. 

In  warm,  dry  and  well  sheltered  situations,  in  the  middle  states, 
and  generally  in  the  southern  states,  these  beautiful  flowers  may- 
be planted  in  the  open  borders  in  small  patches,  with  other  kinds, 
and  will  there  make  a  very  agreeable  appearance.  You  may  plant 
four  or  five  roots,  in  a  small  circle  of  about  six  inches  diameter,  one 
in  the  middle  and  the  rest  round  the  extreme  part  of  the  circle  ;  and 
let  these  patches  or  clumps  be  from  two  or  three  to  five,  ten  or 
twelve  feet  asunder,  and  the  roots  be  covered  from  one  to  two 
inches  deep,  according  to  the  lightness  of  the  ground. 

The  above  practice,  however,  of  planting  those  roots  in  patches 
about  the  borders,  is  meant  principally  for  the  common  sorts ;  for 
it  is  necessary  to  plant  the  fine  varieties  together  in  narrow  beds  or 
frames,  as  above,  in  order  both  to  have  the  opportunity  of  protect- 
ing them  occasionally  in  severe  weather,  and  that,  when  in  flower, 
they  may  display  a  spacious  shew  together  in  their  various  colours, 
stripes,  and  tints,  in  the  different  varieties  ;  and  also  in  the  spring, 
when  the  plants  are  in  bloom,  they  can  be  more  readily  sheltered 
from  great  rains,  or  too  much  sun,  both  of  which  would  hasten  the 
decay  of  the  flowers:  and  as  the  pleasure  of  admiring  the  bloom  is 
the  only  intention  of  cultivating  these  flowers,  no  pains  should  be 
spared  to  protect  the  more  beautiful  sorts. 

Planting  Tulips. 

Tulips,  if  you  have  any  out  of  the  ground,  should  now  be  planted 
the  first  settled  open  weather,  to  blow  late,  and  to  succeed  those 
planted  late  in  autumn. 

Let  this  be  done  as  soon  as  the  weather  will  permit ;  for  if  these 
roots  are  kept  much  longer  out  of  the  ground,  they  will  blow  very 
poorly.  If  they  are  to  be  planted  in  beds,  let  them  be  made  three  or 
four  feet  wide,  raised  two  or  three  inches,  somewhat  rounding,  that 
they  may  throw  off  the  redundant  wet  of  heavy  rains,  and  remain 
dry  during  winter. 

If  intended  to  plant  any  of  the  inferior  sorts  in  the  borders,  in  as- 
semblage with  other  flowers,  they  may  either  be  planted  in  a  single 
row  towards  the  front,  or  some  dotted  singly,  or  by  three  together, 
to  effect  a  greater  variety :  but  these  flowers,  when  planted  in  the 
borders,  make  the  best  appearance  in  little  clumps;  that  is,  in  a  cir- 
cle of  about  six  or  eight  inches,  plant  four  or  five  roots ;  and  about 
from  three  or  four  to  five  or  ten  feet  farther,  plant  another  such 
clump,  and  so  proceed,  in  a  varied  order,  towards  the  front  and 
middle. 


JAN.]  FLOWER-GARDEN.  75 

Observe  that  hyacinths,  tulips,  and  other  hardy  bulbs,  which,  to 
do  them  justice,  ought  to  be  planted  in  October,  or  early  in  Novem- 
ber; should  have  lighter,  or  more  shallow  covering,  in  proportion 
to  the  length  of  time  they  are  kept  out  of  ground  after  that  period  ; 
for  instance,  tulips  which  ought  to  get  four  inches  of  light  covering 
in  October,  will  not  be  able  to  bear  more  than  three  in  December, 
two  and  a  half  in  January,  two  in  February,  and  one  and  a  half  if 
kept  up  till  March ;  for  many  of  the  bulbous  kinds  become  so  ex- 
hausted by  keeping  them  too  long  out  of  the  ground,  that  if  planted 
at  the  usual  depth,  they  have  not  strength  to  bear  up  through  it, 
and  ultimately  perish.  However,  this  partial  remedy  ought  by  no 
means  to  induce  to  the  keeping  of  bulbous  roots  out  of  ground 
after  their  proper  season  ;  but  by  attending  to  it,  roots  may  be  pre- 
served, that  would  otherwise  perish,  and  which,  by  planting  in  due 
time  the  succeeding  season,  may  produce  tolerable  good  flowers, 
and  an  encrease  of  their  kinds. 

Be  particular,  never  at  any  season,  or  under  any  circumstance, 
to  give  less  covering  to  any  kind  of  a  bulbous  or  tuberous  root,  when 
planted  in  the  open  ground,  than  one  inch  over  the  crown  or  upper 
part. 

Planting  Crocuses  and  Snoiv-drofis. 

Any  sort  of  crocuses  may  still  be  planted,  if  dry  mild  weather  ; 
generally  planting  them  along  the  edges  of  the  flower-borders,  next 
the  walks,  and  in  flower-beds,  &c.  commonly  within  five  or  six 
inches  of  the  edge,  either  in  a  continued  row,  or  dotted  in  little 
patches,  planted  about  one  inch  and  half  deep :  though  those  de- 
signed for  the  borders  appear  to  greater  advantage  when  disposed 
in  small  patches,  than  in  any  other  way.  Draw  a  small  circle 
with  your  finger,  about  four  or  five  inches  diameter ;  in  the  middle 
plant  one  root,  and  plant  three  or  four  round  the  edge  of  the  cir- 
cle :  about  eighteen  inches  or  two  or  three  feet  farther,  make  ano- 
ther circle,  and  plant  the  roots  as  above ;  and  so  proceed  to  the 
end  of  the  border,  &c ;  or  may  vary  the  patches,  in  having  some 
near  the  edge,  and  others  more  towards  the  middle :  observing,  if 
you  have  different  kinds,  to  plant  each  sort  separate ;  and  if  you 
plant  the  first  patch  with  yellow  crocuses,  plant  the  next  with  blue, 
and  so  proceed  with  others  of  different  sorts. 

Snow-drops  may  also  now  be  planted,  in  the  same  manner  as  the 
crocuses  ;  but  neither  of  them,  when  planted  so  late,  flower  well  the 
spring  following  ....the  former,in  particular,  will  totally  perish  if  kept 
much  longer  out  of  the  ground.  These  kinds  ought  to  have  been 
planted  in  September,  or  early  in  October,  for  being  flowers  of  early 
bloom  they  do  not  agree  with  being  kept  up  after  their  proper  time 
of  planting. 

When  you  desire  a  considerable  increase  of  crocus's,  or  snow- 
drops, take  up  the  roots  but  once  in  two  years  ;  if  you  let  them  re- 
main longer,  though  the  increase  will  be  numerous,  the  roots  be- 
come very  small  and  produce  but  poor  flowers. 


76  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [!AN. 


Planting  -various  sorts  of  Bulbs. 

Jonquils,  ornithogalums,  narcissus's,  hyacinths,  bulbous  iris', 
Persian  iris',  gladiolus's,  fritillaries,  crown  imperials,  or  any  other 
kinds  of  hardy  bulbous  flower-roots,  that  yet  remain  above  ground, 
should  now  be  planted,  as  soon  as  the  weather  will  permit.  Mild 
dry  weather  ought  to  be  chosen  for  planting  these  and  all  other 
kinds  of  bulbous  roots ;  and  see  that  the  ground  is  not  too  wet. 

When  it  is  intended  to  plant  any  of  the  common  sorts  of  the 
above,  or  other  kinds  of  bulbous  roots  in  the  borders,  they  may  be 
planted  in  the  manner  mentioned  above  for  the  common  tulips,  Sec. 
Observing  particularly,  that  the  longer  you  keep  them  out  of  the 
ground  after  October  or  November,  the  shallower  they  must  be 
planted. 

Flowers  to  blow  in  the  House. 

Several  sorts  of  bulbous  roots  may  be  placed  upon  bulb-glasses  of 
water,  for  blowing  in  the  apartments  of  the  house,  such  as  hyacinths, 
narcissuses,  jonquils,  early  dwarf  tulips,  bulbous  iris',  &c. ;  the 
glasses  for  this  purpose  are  to  be  had  at  the  seed  and  glass-shops, 
being  made  concave  at  the  mouth,  to  contain  each  one  root,  and  are 
to  be  filled  with  soft  water,  and  one  root  placed  in  each  glass  with  its 
bottom  touching  the  water :  placing  the  bottles  upon  a  shelf  or 
chimney-piece  of  some  warm  room,  or  in  the  inside  of  a  warm  win- 
dow, and  if  where  the  sun  comes,  it  will  be  an  additional  advantage  ; 
but  in  severe  frost,  remove  them  to  the  interior  part  of  a  room 
where  a  fire  is  kept:  they  will  soon  shoot  their  roots  down  into  the 
water,  which,  when  become  very  foul  or  fetid,  should  be  renewed 
with  fresh  occasionally :  they  will  thus  blow  very  agreeably,  early 
in  the  spring  ;  and  may  be  greatly  forwarded  if  placed  in  a  hot-bed 
or  hot-house. 

Likewise,  may  plant  various  sorts  of  bulbous  and  tuberous  flower- 
roots,  in  pots  for  blowing  in  a  house,  such  as  hyacinths,  narcissus's 
of  all  kinds,  early  tulips,  crocus's,  anemones,  ranunculus's,  or  any 
other  spring  flowering  kind  ;  having  small  pots  or  boxes  filled  with 
light  sandy  earth,  plant  the  roots  therein  just  over  their  crowns,  and 
place  the  pots  near  a  window ;  when  the  roots  begin  to  shoot,  give 
occasional  light  waterings,  and  they  will  flower  in  good  perfection  at 
an  early  season. 


£  lowing  flowers  early  in  Hot-beds^  Isfc. 

Many  sorts  of  bulbous,  tuberous,  and  fibrous-rooted  perennial 
flowers,  if  planted  in  pots,  a.nd  now  placed  in  a  hot-bed,  hot-house,  or 
any  forcing  department  at  work,  will  shoot  and  flower  early  without 
much  trouble  ;  only  to  give  occasional  watering.  Pots  of  roses, 
dwarf  almonds,  double-blossom  cherry,  peach,  &c.  may  also  be 
placed  in  the  forcing-houses,  for  early  bloom. 


JAN.]  FLOWER-GARDEN,  77 

Care  of  fierennialjibrous-rooted  Plants,  in  Pots. 

Double  wall -flowers,  double  stocks,  double  sweet-williams,  and 
any  other  of  the  choicer  kinds  of  perennial  plants,  in  pots,  should 
be  well  secured  from  severe  frosts.  If  these  plants  in  pots  are 
placed  in  frames,  let  the  glasses  or  other  covering  be  kept  over 
them  at  all  times  when  the  frost  is  keen,  or  occasionally  in  very 
wet  weather ;  but  in  mild  dry  weather  the  plants  must  not  be  covered 
in  the  day  time. 

Take  care  now  also,  of  all  other  choicer  kinds  of  fibrous-rooted 
perennial  plants  in  general,  which  are  in  pots,  to  secure  them  from 
frost ;  such  as  the  double  rose  campion,  double  scarlet  lychnis,  dou- 
ble rocket,  and  all  other  like  kinds. 

Those  plants  which  are  in  pots,  should,  where  there  is  not  the 
convenience  of  frames,  be  plunged  to  their  rims  in  a  dry  and  warm 
border,  and  at  night  and  in  severe  weather  be  covered  with  garden- 
mats,  supported  on  arched  hoops  placed  low  over  such  bed  or 
border. 

Seedling  Floivers. 

Boxes  or  pots  of  any  tender  or  choice  kinds  of  seedling  flowers 
should  be  covered  in  frosty  weather,  either  with  mats,  long  litter, 
fern,  or  the  like,  which  should  be  laid  a  good  thickness  over 
them,  and  close  round  the  sides  ;  or  remove  them  under  a  garden- 
frame  and  glasses,  See.  which  will  be  the  better  way. 

Likewise  beds  of  the  more  tender  and  curious  sorts  of  seedling 
flowers,  in  the  common  ground,  should  also  be  covered  in  hard 
frosts,  with  mats  or  long  dry  litter;  but  remove  the  covering  when 
the  weather  is  mild. 

Protecting  Flowering -Shrubs. 

If  you  have  hardy  flowering-shrubs  or  ever-greens  in  pots,  you 
should,  to  protect  their  roots  from  the  frost,  plunge  the  pots  to  their 
rims  in  the  ground,  if  ommitted  doing  in  Noyember  or  December, 
and  cover  the  pots  with  some  tan,  leaves  of  trees,  or  dry  litter ; 
allotting  them  for  this  purpose,  a  dry  warm  situation,  where  water 
is  not  apt  to  stand. 

But  any  tenderer  or  more  curious  young  ever-greens,  &c.  in  pots, 
should  have  the  protection  of  frames  or  occasional  covering  of 
mats,  Sec.  in  severe  weather. 

Protect  also,  the  roots  of  the  choicer  kinds  of  new  planted,  flower- 
ing shrubs,  and  ever-greens  from  frost.  This  is  done  by  laying  dry 
mulchy  litter  on  the  surface  of  the  ground,  close  round  the  lower  part 
of  the  stem  of  each,  as  far  as  their  roots  extend,  or  rather  farther. 

Likewise  support  such  new-planted  shrubs,  as  require  it,  with 
stakes,  that  they  may  not  be  displaced  by  the  wind. 

Grassy  and  Gravel  walks, 

The  grass  and  gravel  walks,  should  all  be  kept  in  decent  order, 
especially  in  the  principal  parts  of  the  garden  and  pleasure-ground  j 


78  THE  GREEN-HOUSE.  [JAN. 

suffer  no  leaves  of  trees,  or  other  litter  to  remain  thereon,  for  such 
would  give  them  an  unbecoming  appearance. 

SOUTHERN    STATES. 

Where  mild  weather  is  now  prevalent,  and  the  ground  not  bound 
up  by  frost,  you  may  plant  all  kinds  of  hardy  deciduous  trees  and 
shrubs ;  and  towards  the  latter  end  of  the  month,  especially  where 
smart  frosts  are  not  expected  to  follow,  you  may  plant  the  different 
kinds  of  hardy  ever-green  trees  and  shrubs. 

Plant  cuttings  and  make  layers  of  such  kinds  as  you  wish  to 
propogate  by  these  methods  :  plant  dwarf-box  for  edgings,  which  is 
superior  to  every  kind  of  plant  for  that  purpose.  Transplant  suck- 
ers from  the  roots  of  roses,  and  such  other  shrubs  as  produce  them, 
and  are  worthy  of  cultivation. 

Hedges  of  the  various  kinds  of  haw-thorn,  hornbeam  beech,  elm, 
privet,  white  mulberry,  Sec.  may  now  be  planted.  Make  and  repair 
grass  and  gravel  walks ;  keep  such  as  are  made  in  clean  and  neat 
order,  and  give  them  occasional  rollings. 

Sow  hardy  annual  and  perrennial  flower  seeds,  and  do  the  various 
other  works  directed  to  be  done  in  the  flower-garden  and  pleasure- 
ground,  in  March, 


THE  GREEN-HOUSE. 


A  Green-house,  is  a  garden-building  fronted  with  glass,  serv- 
ing as  a  winter  residence,  for  tender  plants  from  the  warmer  parts 
of  the  world,  which  require  no  more  artificial  heat,  than  what  is 
barely  sufficient  to  keep  off  frost,  and  dispel  such  damps  as  may 
arise  in  the  house,  occasioned  by  the  perspiration  of  the  plants 
or  a  long  continuance  of  moist  weather. 

A  very  considerable  share  of  the  vegetable  creation  which  in 
their  respective  native  countries,  grow  naturally  in  open  fields, 
&c.  in  all  seasons ;  require  when  cultivated  in  less  favourable  climates, 
protection  in  winter  ;  but  observe,  however,  that  those  of  the  Green- 
house department,  being  from  the  warmer  parts  of  the  world, 
require  protection  from  frost  only,  not  needing  aid  of  artificial  heat 
like  stove  plants,  which  are  generally  natives  of  the  hottest  regions, 
except  in  very  severe  weather ;  but  the  aid  of  a  moderate  fire, 
burned  in  a  furnace  contrived  outside,  either  in  the  end,  or  back 
wall,  communicating  the  hsat  to  the  flues  or  funnels  ranging  along 
the  inside,  will  be  necessary,  not  only  in  severe  frosts,  but 
also  in  moist  foggy  weather  j  a  moderate  fire  now  and  then  will 


[JAN.  THE  GREEN-HOUSE.  79 

dry  up  the  damps,  which  would  otherwise  prove  pernicious  to 
several  of  the  more  tender  kinds,  especially  to  those  of  succulent 
habits. 

A  green-house  should  generally  stand  in  the  pleasure-ground, 
and  if  possible,  upon  a  somewhat  elevated  and  dry  spot  fronting 
the  south,  and  where  the  sun  has  full  access  from  its  rising  to  set- 
ting ;  the  building  ought  to  be  of  brick,  or  stone,  having  the  front 
almost  wholly  of  glass-work,  ranging  lengthwise  east  and  west, 
and  constructed  upon  an  ornamental  plan. 

As  to  its  general  dimensions,  with  respect  to  length,  width,  and 
height,  it  may  be  from  ten,  to  fifty  feet  or  more  long,  according  to 
the  number  of  plants,  which  you  intend  it  should  contain  ;  and  its 
width  in  the  clear,  from  ten  or  fifteen  to  twenty  feet,  though  for  a 
middle  sized  house,  fifteen  or  eighteen  feet  is  sufficient ;  its  height 
to  the  top  of  the  upright  front  glasses,  equal  to  its  width ;  as  to  erect- 
ing rooms  over  it,  as  is  commonly  directed,  I  disapprove  of,  such 
being  not  only  an  additional  and  unnecessary  expence,  but  they 
give  the  building  a  heavy  appearance;  on  the  contrary,  all 
pieces  of  garden  architecture  ought  to  display  a  light,  gay,  and 
sprightly  taste. 

The  walls  of  the  back  and  ends  should  be  carried  up  three  bricks, 
or  about  two  feet  three  inches  thick,  the  more  effectually  to  keep 
out  frost ;  a  furnace  ought  to  be  erected  outside,  either  in  the  back 
wall,  or  one  of  the  ends  as  before  observed,  communicating  with 
flues  within,  ranging  in  two  or  three  returns  along  the  back  wall, 
with  only  a  brick  on  edge,  with  the  plaistering,  between  them  and 
the  inside  ;  also  one  flue  running  along  the  front  and  end  walls, 
raised  wholly  above  the  floor  ;  and  as  to  the  front  of  the  building 
it  should  have  as  much  glass  as  possible,  and  a  wide  glass  door, 
should  be  in  the  middle,  both  for  ornament  and  entrance,  and  for 
moving  in  and  out  the  plants ;  a  small  door  at  the  end,  for  entrance 
in  severe  weather,  will  be  found  of  considerable  utility. 

The  width  of  the  windows  for  the  glass  sashes,  may  be  five,  or" 
six  feet,  and  the  piers  between  them,  may  be  either  of  timber,  six 
eight,  or  ten  inches  wide,  according  to  their  height,  or  if  of  brick, 
or  stone,  they  must  be  about  two  feet  wide,  sloping  both  sides  of 
each  pier  inward,  that  by  taking  off  the  angles,  a  more  free  ad- 
mission may  be  given  to  the  rays  of  the  sun  :  the  bottom  sashes 
must  reach  within  a  foot  or  eighteen  inches  of  the  floor  of  the 
house,  and  their  top  reach  within  eight  or  ten  inches  of  the  cieling ; 
and  if  brick  or  stone  piers  two  feet  wide,  folding  shutters  may  be 
hung  inside  to  fall  back  against  each  pier. 

In  the  modern  construction  of  green-houses,  in  order  to  have  as 
much  glass  as  possible  in  front,  the  piers  between  the  sashes  are 
commonly  made  of  good  timber,  from  six  to  eight  or  ten  inches 
thick,  according  to  their  height,  so  as  to  admit  as  great  a  portion 
of  light,  and  heat  of  the  sun,  as  may  be ;  and,  on  the  same  account, 
one  half  or  one  third  of  the  roof,  is  formed  of  glass-work,  made  in  the 
manner  of  hot-bed  lights,  the  remainder  being  either  covered  with 
slate  or  shingles,  and  tarpolings  or  very  strong  canvas  fixed  on  rollers, 
fco  be  let  down  over  the  roof-glasses  in.  very  severe  weather ;  you 


80  THE  GREEN-HOUSE.  [JAN. 

may  also  have  large  canvas  cloaths  upon  rollers  to  let  clown  occa- 
sionally before  the  windows,  or  in  default  of  such,  you  may  nail  up 
garden  mats. 

Let  one  third  of  the  front  side  of  the  roof,  for  the  whole  length 
of  the  house,  be  formed  of  glass-work,  and  the  back  wall  raised,  so- 
as  that  a  horizontal  ceiling  may  be  carried  from  the  upper  part  of 
these  lights  to  it,  which  will  cause  the  back  half  of  the  roof  to  be 
somewhat  more  flat  than  the  front.  Ornamental  wood-work  may 
be  erected  outside,  along  the  top  of  those  lights,  to  give  a  light  ap- 
pearance to  the  roof.  Or,  if  the  house  be  small,  you  may  carry  the 
entire  roof  with  a  gentle  slope  from  the  front  to  the  back  wall, 
which  must  be  made  of  a  proper  height  for  that  purpose ;  one  third 
or  one  half  of  such  roof  may  be  made  of  glass-work  ;  from  the  ter- 
mination of  which,  carry  the  ceiling  on  a  level  to  the  back  part  of 
the  house. 

The  better  to  confine  the  air  warmed  by  the  sun  in  the  day  time, 
and  to  prevent  the  cold  air  from  rushing  in  on  the  approach  of  night, 
when  that  within  begins  to  cool  and  consequently  to  contract 
in  bulk ;  I  would  advise  to  have  all  the  panes  in  the  roof-lights  neat- 
ly and  closely  puttied,  where  they  overlap  one  another  ;  and  to  have 
either  one,  two  or  three  of  those  lights,  in  proportion  to  the  lenghth 
of  the  house,  so  constructed,  as  to  slide  down  and  up  a  few  feet,  by 
means  of  pullies ;  in  order  to  give  vent  to  the  foul  air  generated  in 
the  house,  which  naturally  ascends  to  the  upper  part.  The  sized 
glass,  recommended  in  page  3,  for  hot-bed  lights,  is  what  I  would 
particularly  recommend  for  these  roof-lights,  being  not  only  the 
strongest,  but  by  much  the  cheapest. 

The  windows  or  upright  front-lights,  must  be  made  with  large 
panes  of  glass,  Sec.  to  admit  the  more  light,  as  well  as  to  give  a  hand- 
some appearance  to  the  house  :  the  upper  half  of  each  window 
must  be  so  contrived,  as  to  slide  down,  and  the  lower  half  up, 
occasionally,  to  admit  air  to  the  plants  when  necessary. 

If  a  spacious  and  ornamental  window  be  placed  in  each  end,  (if 
the  house  be  detached)  to  receive  the  benefit  of  the  rising  and  set- 
ting sun,  it  will  be  of  considerable  advantage ;  these  particularly 
should  have  good  close  shutters  either  inside  or  outside,  and  be  kept 
shut  every  night  during  the  winter,  and  also  in  the  day  time  in  very 
severe  weather,  except  while  the  sun  immediately  shines  on  them. 
If  the  front  is  so  contrived,  that  inside  shutters  to  the  windows,  can- 
not be  conveniently  hung,  outside  sliding  shutters  should  be  made,  to 
be  used  only  when  necessity  requires. 

But  let  it  be  particularly  observed,  that  all  the  lights,  cases,  doors, 
and  wood  work  of  the  house,  be  made  of  good  seasoned  wood,  and 
well  painted,  to  prevent  either  their  swelling  by  wet,  or  shrinking 
by  drought ;  that  all  parts  be  well  jointed  and  fitted  together,  so  as 
to  be  as  nearly  air  tight  as  possible. 

A  house  constructed  on  this  plan,  will  very  seldom  require  the 
assistance  of  fire-heat,  which  ought  always  to  be  used  with  great 
caution  in  a  Green-house  ;  it  will  admit  light,  collect  heat,  and  give 
health,  beauty  and  vigour  to  all  the  plants, 


JAN.]  THE  GREEN-HOUSE.  81 

Some  green-houses  for  large  collections  of  plants,  have  two  wings 
of  smaller  dimensions,  added  to  the  main  building,  one  at  each  erid, 
in  a  right  line,  separated  sometimes  from  it  by  glass  partitions,  and 
sliding  sashes  for  communication,  the  front  almost  wholly  of  glass, 
and  part  glass  roofs,  as  above  observed  ;  thus  by  these  addition?! 
wings,  the  green-house  will  consist  of  three  divisions,whereby  the  dif- 
ferent qualities  and  temperatures  of  the  various  plants  can  be  more 
eligibly  suited.  The  middle  or  main  division  may  be  for  all  the 
principal  and  more  hardy,  woody  or  shrubby  kinds,  which  require 
protection  from  frost  only ;  one  of  the  wings  may  be  appropriated 
for  the  succulent  tribe,  and  the  other  for  the  more  tender  kinds  that 
require  occasional  heat  in  winter,  yet  can  live  without  the  constant 
heat  of  a  stove  or  hot-house. 

Many  green-houses,  as  they  are  commonly  built,  serve  more  for 
ornament  than  use  ;  their  situation  to  receive  the  south  sun  being 
the  only  essential,  that  seems  to  be  regarded,  towards  preserving 
the  health  of  the  plants  which  they  are  intended  to  protect.  It  is 
rare  to  find  one  that  will  keep  plants  in  good  health  during  the  win- 
ter, either  by  reason  of  their  situation  in  moist  places,  their  want  of 
a  sufficiency  of  glasses  to  attract  heat  and  admit  a  due  quantity  of 
light,  or  of  the  glasses  not  being  constructed  so  as  to  slide  up  and 
down  occasionally,  as  they  ought. ...as  well  to  suffer  the  foul  air  to 
be  discharged  as  to  admit  fresh.  Sometimes  where  a  Green-house 
has  been  well  considered  in  these  points,  all  is  confounded  by  the 
introduction  of  a  mettle  stove  and  pipes,  which  never  can  be  man- 
aged so  as  to  give,  when  necessary,  that  gradual  and  well  regulated 
heat,  which  will  protect  the  plants  without  injuring  them  ;  and,  be- 
sides, both  the  stove  and  pints  unavoidably  emit  in  the  house  a 
quantity  of  smoak,  which  seldom  fails  to  annoy  the  plants.  It  does 
not  unfrequently  happen,  when  such  a  house  is  entrusted  to  the  care 
of  an  ignorant  or  negligent  person,  that  the  whole  collection  is  de- 
stroyed in  one  night,  by  excessive  heat,  or  at  least  rendered  of  very 
little  value ;  this  is  an  evil  which  ought  to  be  carefully  guarded 
against. 

For  the  particular  method  of  erecting  the  furnace  and  flues,  see 
the  article  HOT-HOUSE,  for  this  month  ;  with  which  it  agrees  in 
every  respect,  only  that  one  range  round  the  house,  and  two  along 
the  back  wall,  will  be  sufficient;  and  that  the  flues  may  or  may 
not  be  erected  close  to  the  walls,  at  pleasure. 

On  whatever  plan  the  Green-house  is  constructed,  let  the  whole 
inside,  both  ceiling,  walls  and  flues,  be  neatly  finished  off  with  good 
plaister  and  white-wash,  and  all  the  wood-work  made  with  the  most 
critical  exactness,  of  good  seasoned  timber,  particularly  the  doors, 
sashes  and  sash-frames. ...the  whole  to  be  painted  white. ...and  let  the 
bottom  or  floor  be  paved  with  large  square  paving  tiles,  or  some 
similar  materials. 

The  floor  of  the  Green-house  should  be  raised  at  least  twelve 
inches  above  the  level  of  the  ground,  and  higher  in  proportion  as 
the  situation  is  moist  or  springy.... for  damps  sometimes  arise  dur- 
ing the  winter  months,  which  proves  very  rjernicious  to  plants. 


82  THE  GREEN-HOUSE. 

In  the  Green-house  should  be  tressels,  which  may  be  moved  in 
and  out,  upon  which  rows  of  planks  should  be  fixed,  so  as  to  place 
the  pots  or  tubs  of  plants  in  regular  rows  one  above  another,  where- 
by the  heads  of  the  plants  may  be  so  situated,  as  not  to  interfere 
with  each  other.  The  lowest  row  of  plants,  or  those  nearest  to  the 
windows,  should  be  placed  about  four  feet  from  them,  that  there  may 
be  a  convenient  breadth  left  next  the  glasses  to  walk  in  front,  and 
the  rows  of  plants  should  rise  gradually  from  the, first,  in  such  a 
manner  that  the  heads  of  the  second  row  should  be  entirely  advanc- 
ed above  the  first,  the  stems  only  being  hid,  and  so  on  for  the  whole. 
At  the  back  of  the  house  there  should  be  allowed  a  space  of  at  least 
four  feet  for  the  conveniency  of  watering  the  plants,  and  particular- 
ly to  admit  a  current  of  air  round  them ;  there  may  also  be  narrow 
temporary  open  stairs  of  boards  erected  at  one  end,  leading  to  a 
platform  erected  at  the  back,  on  a  level  with  the  highest  part  of  the 
stage. ...which  will  be  found  very  convenient  for  watering  as  well  as 
for  common  access  to  the  highest  and  most  remote  plants  ;  and 
also  to  place  thereon,  near  the  back  wall,  pots  and  tubs  of  deciduous 
plants,  which  would  appear  very  unsightly  in  the  front  of  the  stage  ; 
observing,  that  the  boards  of  such  platform  be  laid  one  inch  at  least 
asunder,  for  the  free  admission  of  the  circulating  air. 

If  two  or  three  air-holes  be  made  in  the  back  wall,  a  little  above 
this  platform,  or  even  below  it,  about  six  inches  square  in  the  out- 
side, and  twelve  inside,  with  close  shutting  doors  towards  the  out- 
side and  within,  both  opening  inward  ;  they  will  be  found  very  use- 
ful in  mild  weather  for  ventilating  the  house,  and  driving  off  any 
foul  air  from  the  back  parts ;  in  these  holes,  between  both  doors, 
you.may  stuff  in  any  kind  of  wadding,  to  prevent  air  coming  in  that 
way,  but  when  wanted. 

Never  croud  the  plants,  for  when  pent  in  too  closely,  a  stag- 
nant rancid  vapour  is  generated  which  often  occasions  a  mouldi- 
ness  upon  the  tender  shoots  and  leaves,  very  destructive  to  the 
plants ;  neither  should  too  great  a  proportion  of  succulent  plants 
ever  be  placed  in  this  department. 

The  Conservatory. 

The  Green-house  and  Conservatory  have  been  generally  con- 
sidered as  synonimous  ;  their  essential  difference  is  this :  in  the 
Green-house,  the  trees  and  plants  are  either  in  tubs  or  pots,  and 
are  placed  on  stands  or  stages  during  the  winter,  till  they  are 
removed  into  some  suitable  situation  abroad  in  summer.  In  the 
Conservatory,  the  ground  plan  is  laid  out  in  beds  and  borders, 
made  up  of  the  best  compositions  of  soils  that  can  be  procured, 
three  or  four  feet  deep.  In  these  the  trees  or  plants,  taken  out  of 
their  tubs  or  pots,  are  regularly  planted,  in  the  same  manner  as 
hardy  plants  are  in  open  air.  This  house  is  roofed,  as  well  as 
fronted  with  glass-work,  and  instead  of  taking  out  the  plants  in 
summer,  as  in  the  preen-house,  the  whole  of  the  glass-roof  is 
taken  off,  and  the  plants  are  thus  exposed  to  the  open  air  ;  and  at 
the  approach  of  autumn  frosts,  the  lights  are  again  put  on,  and 
remain  so  till  the  May  following. 


JAN.]  THE  GREEN-HOUSE.  83 

This  building  being  furnished  with  flues,  Sec.  may  be  used  as  a 
Green-house  at  discretion,  by  introducing  stages  instead  of  beds, 
and  in  that  case  the  glass-roof  may  be  permanently  fixed. 

Work  to  be  done  in  the  Green-house. 

In  mild  days,  when  the  weather,  externally,  is  moderate  and  calm, 
let  the  windows  be  opened  a  little  for  the  admission  of  fresh  air 
about  ten  or  eleven  o'clock  ;  and  about  two  or  three  in  the  afternoon 
let  them  be  shut  close  again.  But  the  time  of  opening,  and  the 
time  they,  should  be  kept  so,  must  always  be  determined  by  the 
weather;  for  there  are  many  changes,  sometimes  in  a  few  hours,  at 
this  season.  The  upper  lights  may  be  let  down  a  few  inches  for 
the  admission  of  fresh  air,  as  well  as  to  let  out  the  foul  air  of  the 
house,  even  when  the  under  lights  cannot  be  raised  with  safety. 

In  frosty  weather,  the  windows  must  be  kept  constantly  close  ; 
and,  if  very  severe,  let  the  window  shutters  be  shut  every  night,  and 
even  occasionally  in  the  day  time,  when  the  frost  is  extremely  rigor- 
ous, and  no  sun ;  or,  in  default  of  shutters,  on  this  occasion,  let  gar- 
den-mats be  nailed  up  against  all  the  windows,  or  strong  canvass 
hung  on  rollers,  be  let  down  before  them,  and  remove  the  small  or 
more  tender  plants  in  front,  as  fur  from  danger  as  possible. 

Keep  the  plants  perfectly  clear  from  decayed  leaves,  and  as  clean 
as  possible  from  any  considerable  foulness ;  and  every  part  of  the 
house  clean  and  free  from  litter  of  fallen  leaves,  Sec. ;  all  which  is 
essential  at  this  time  for  the  prosperity  of  the  plants  in  general. 

When  the  weather  is  foggy,  or  very  wet,  it  will  be  proper  to  keep 
the  windows  and  door  close. 

Water  must  be  given  to  such  plants  as  you  see  require  it ;  but  let 
that  be  given  in  very  moderate  quantities,  and  always,  if  possible, 
take  the  opportunity  of  a  mild  day,  and  if  sunny,  the  better :  in  the 
forenoon,  from  eleven  to  twelve  or  one  o'clock,  is  the  proper  time 
of  the  day  for  watering  at  this  season  ;  and  generally  prefer  soft 
•water  for  this  occasion. 

But  very  little  water  must  be  given  at  this  season  of  the  year  to 
any  of  the  aloes,  sedums,  or  any  other  of  the  succulent  plants. 

Let  it  likewise  be  observed,  that  such  of  the  woody  exotics,  as 
oranges,  myrtles,  geraniums,  Sec.  as  you  shall  see  necessary  to  wa- 
ter, should  have  but  a  very  moderate  quantity  given  them  at  any  one 
time. 

In  such  green-houses,  where  there  is  the  convenience  of  flues,  for 
occasional  fire-heat  in  very  rigorous  weather,  you  should,  in  time  of 
continued  severe  frost,  make  moderate  fires  in  an  evening  and 
morning,  just  sufficient  to  warm  the  inclosed  air  enough  to  resist 
the  frost ;  also  in  very  foggy  or  moist  weather,  may  make  a  very 
moderate  fire  to  expel  the  damp,  which  often  proves  pernicious  to 
some  ef  the  more  delicate  exotics  of  this  department. 


JAN.]  84 


THE  HOT-HOUSE. 


HOT-HOUSES,  or  STOVES,  are  buildings  erected  for  pre- 
serving- such  tender  exotic  plants,  natives  of  the  warmer  and  hot- 
test regions,  as  will  not  live  in  the  respective  countries  where  they 
are  introduced,  without  artificial  warmth  in  winter. 

Though  there  are  great  varieties  of  these  stoves,  yet  they  are 
reducible  to  two ;  the  dry  stove  and  the  bark  stove.  They  are 
both,  comparatively,  of  modern  invention ;  the  first,  as  far  as  I  can 
learn,  not  having  been  in  use  more  than  one  hundred  and  twenty- 
one  years,  being  introduced  by  Mr.  Watts,  gardener  at  the  apothe- 
caries garden  at  Chelsea,  near  London,  who,  in  the  year  1684, 
contrived  fines  under  his  green-house  ;  the  latter  being  much 
posterior,  not  having  been  brought  into  repute  till  about  the  year 
1720,  when  Mr,  Le  Cour,  of  Leyden,  in  Holland,  discovered  its 
utility  for  the  propagation  of  the  pine-apple,  which  had  never  before 
been  brought  to  good  perfection  in  Europe.  Before  the  use  of 
bark -beds  was  introduced,  all  stoves  or  hot-houses  were  worked  by 
fire-heat  only  j  hence  they  obtained  the  name  of  stoves. 

These  stove  departments  are  generally  constructed  in  an  oblong 
manner,  ranging  in  a  straight  line  east  and  west,  with  the  glass 
front  and  roof  fully  exposed  to  the  south  sun  ;  and  in  dimensions  may 
be  from  fifteen  or  twenty,  to  fifty  or  a  hundred  feet  long,  by  twelve 
or  fourteen,  to  sixteen  feet  wide  in  the  clear,  and  commonly  from 
ten  to  fourteen  feet  high  in  the  back  wall,  by  five  or  six  in  front,  in- 
cluding the  wall  and  upright  glasses  together,  and  furnished  with 
flues  round  the  inside  of  the  front  and  end  walls,  and  in  several  re- 
twiis  in  the  back  wall  for  fires  ;  and  with  the  whole  roof  overhead, 
sloping  to  the  south,  entirely  of  glass-work,  supported  on  proper 
cross-bearers, 

Swves  of  much  more  capacious  dimensions,  are  frequently  erect- 
ed b}  per  .on s  of  fortune  and  curiosity,  for  the  cultivation  of  the 
tiller --grow ing  kinds  of  exotics,  which  shall  be  taken  due  notice 
of,  after  the  less  expensive  and  more  generally  used  kinds  are  des- 
cribed. 

The  Bark-Stove, 

The  Bark-Stove  is  so  called,  as  being  furnished  with  an  internal 
pit  for  a  bark-bed,  as  well  as  with  flues  for  fire-heat,  and  is  the 
most  universally  used,  as  being  the  most  eligible  for  the  general 
culture  of  all  kinds  of  the  tenderest  exotics,  as  well  as  for  forcing 
several  sorts  of  hardy  plants,  flowers  and  fruits  to  early  perfection : 
the  bark-bed  being  designed  to  effect  a  constant  moderate  moist 
heat  all  the  year  round,  and  the  flues  used  occasionally  for  fire-heat 
in  winter,  or  during  cold  weather,  to  produce  such  an  additional 
warmth  in  the  internal  air,  as  may  be  requisite  at  that  season  j  the 


JAN.]  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  85 

bark-bed  being-  formed,  as  hereafter  directed,  is  productive  of  an 
uniform  moderate  growing  heat,  of  long  duration,  peculiarly  adapt- 
ed for  the  reception  and  growth  of  the  most  tender  exotics,  which 
require  to  be  kept  constantly  plunged  in  their  pots  in  it ;  such  as 
pine-apple,  Sec.  in  order  to  enjoy  the  benefit  of  that  durable,  moist 
bottom  heat  about  their  roots,  peculiar  to  bark -beds  only,  whose 
heat  also  evaporates  and  warms  the  air  of  the  stove  at  all  times, 
that  even  the  plants  on  the  surrounding  shelves  are  comforted 
by  its  influence  ;  so  that  with  the  aid  of  fire-heat  in  winter,  regu- 
lated by  a  well  graduated  botanical  thermometer,  placed  constantly 
in  the  stove  distant  from  the  fire  place,  and  as  much  in  the  shade 
as  possible,  there  are  hardly  any  exotics  from  the  hottest  regions 
of  the  world,  either  woody,  herbaceous,  or  succulent,  but  may  be 
cultivated  in  it,  by  placing  them  in  such  different  situations,  as 
their  natures  may  require. 

In  the  arrangement  of  the  plants  in  this  stove,  some  require  the 
bark-bed,  others  succeed  in  any  part  of  the  house,  and  others,  such 
as  the  succulents,  require  the  driest  situation  near  the  flues:  many 
of  the  more  tender,  herbaceous,  and  shrubby  plants,  natives  of 
the  hottest  countries,  generally  succeeded  best  when  plunged  in 
the  bark  bed,  though  many  sorts,  both  herbaceous  and  woody, 
thrive  tolerably  well  in  any  part  of  the  Bark  Stove. 

I  shall  now  proceed  to  give  a  minutia  of  its  general  structure, 
upon  the  most  improved  plan,  the  more  especially  as  many  persons 
who  may  be  desirous  of  erecting  such,  may  probably  not  be  able  to 
procure  workmen  capable  of  constructing  it,  without  minute  and 
particular  directions. 

Having  determined  on  the  size,  as  to  length,  width,  &c.  proceed 
to  lay  the  foundation  of  the  walls,  allowing  due  thickness  for  the 
erection  of  the  surrounding  inside  flues  on  the  foundation  wall,  with 
an  allowance  for  their  being  detached  therefrom  about  two  or  three 
inches. 

Then  set  off  the  back  or  north  wall,  at  least  two  bricks  or 
eighteen  inches  thick,  and  the  front  and  end  walls  about  thirteen, 
carrying  up  the  back  wall  from  ten  to  fourteen  feet  high,  in  propor- 
tion to  the  width  of  the  house  ;  but  those  of  the  front  and  ends,  from 
two  to  three  feet,  as  the  circumstances  hereafter  noticed  may  re- 
quire, upon  which  to  erect  the  upright  timber  framing  for  the  per- 
pendicular lights ;  previously  observing,  in  carrying^up  the  walls, 
to  allot  a  proper  space  for  a  door-way,  at  one  or  both  ends  towards 
the  back  part ;  setting  out  also  the  furnace  or  fire-place,  in  the  bot- 
tom foundation,  towards  one  end  of  the  back  wall  behind,  formed 
also  of  brick  work,  and  made  so  as  to  communicate  with  the  lowest 
flue  within,  the  inside  top  of  the  furnace  being  about  a  foot  lower 
than  said  flue,  the  better  to  promote  the  draught  of  heat  and  smoke  ; 
though,  if  the  stove  be  more  than  about  thirty -five  feet  long,  a  fire- 
place near  each  end  will  be  necessary  ;  or,  if  more  convenient,  they 
may  both  be  in  the  middle  of  the  back  wall,  each  communicating 
with  a  separate  range  of  flues  ;  in  either  case  you  may  form  them 
wholly  on  the  outside,  or  part  outside,  and  part  running  through 
the  wall. 


86  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  JAN.] 

This  furnace  is  to  be  made  large  or  small  according  to  the  kind 
of  fuel  intended  to  be  used  and  the  number  of  returns  of  the  flues 
inside  ;  for  when  there  are  but  few  returns,  a  greater  quantity  of  fire 
will  be  necessary  to  keep  a  sufficient  heat.     If  the  returns  are  fre- 
quent, and  wood  is  to  be  the  fuel,  the  furnace  is  to  be  made  only 
three  feet  deep,  to  receive  wood  two  and  a  half  feet  long  or  better ; 
but  if  the  flues  run  only  once  round,  with  no  returns,  the  depth  must 
be  five  feet  to  receive  four  feet  wood,  especially  if  the  house  be 
large ;  in  either  case  the  furnace  is  to  be  made  eighteen  inches 
wide  at  bottom,  the  sides  sloping  outward  to  the  height  of  twenty 
inches,  where  it  is  to  be  twenty-two  inches  wide,  covered  from  thence 
by  an  arch,  the  top  of  which  is  to  be  two  feet  from  the  grate,  which 
is  to  be  made  of  iron-bars,   and  one  half  of  the  depth  of  the  fur- 
nace ;  the  brick  for  the  furnace  should  be  laid  in  good  well-worked 
brick-clay  (not  in  mortar),  which,  when  burned  by  the  fire,   will 
cement  so  as  to  become  a  solid  mass  ;  this  must  have  an  iron-barred 
grate  one  half  of  the  depth  of  the  furnace,  as  before  observed,  the 
remainder  of  the  depth  to  be  made  solid  with  brick  ;  having  an  ash- 
hole  underneath,  with  a  close-shutting  door  to  it.  The  furnace  must 
also  have  an  iron  door  placed  in  an  iron  frame,  which  door  must  be 
furnished,  near  the  lower  part,  with  another  small  door,  for  the  ad- 
mission of  air  to  the  fires,  both  having  latches,  so  as  to  shut  close 
occasionally  ;  observing  that  this  door  is  not  to  be  wider  than  what  is 
necessary  for  the  admission  of  the  fire-wood.     Having  both  your 
ash-hole  and  furnace  thus  provided  with  close-shutting  doors,  you 
may  manage  your  fires  to  great  advantage,  by  closing  them  up  oc- 
casionally from  too  great  a  current  of  air,  especially  when  burned 
clear,  which  would  carry  off  the  heat  through  the  flues  too  rapidly. 
If  you  intend  to  burn  stone-coal,  the  furnace  need  not  be  so  large, 
but  the  grate  must  run  the  whole  depth. 

Having  finished  the  furnace,  proceed  to  carry  up  the  walls,  ob- 
serving particularly,  to  leave  a  scarcement  a  foot  wide  in  both  end 
walls ;  immediately  opposite,  where  the  back-watt  flues  are  to  be 
erected,  from  the  level  of  the  lowest  flue  to  the  top  of  the  highest, 
by  which  means  you  can  open  the  ends  of  the  flues  and  clean  them, 
when  necessary,  either  by  running  in  scrapers  on  the  ends  of  long 
poles,  or  hauling  any  kind  of  small  brush-wood  through  them,  by 
means  of  a  line  from  one  end  to  the  other  ;  these  scarcements  may 
either  be  made  up  with  brick  from  time  to  time,  or  with  sashes  and 
shutters,  which  will  be  more  convenient.  Whenever  there  are  re- 
turned flues,  one  above  the  other,  similar  contrivances  will  be  found 
useful ;  but  where  there  is  only  one  running  flue,  a  top  tile  may  be 
taken  off  at  convenient  distances,  by  which  means  it  can  be  cleaned. 
When  the  walls  are  finished,  then  begin  to  erect  the  flues  along 
the  inside  walls;  but,  as  before  mentioned,  it  would  be  adviseable  to 
have  them  detached  therefrom  two  or  three  inches,  that,  by  being 
thus  apart,  the  whole  heat  may  arise  from  both  sides  of  the  said 
flues,  which  will  afford  an  additional  advantage,  in  more  effectually 
diffusing  the  whole  heat  internally  in  the  house ;  much  of  which 
would  be  lost  in  the  back  wall  were  the  flues  attached  to  it :  the  first 
range  may  be  carried  along  the  front  and  both  ends,  dipping  under 


[JAN.  THE:  HOT-HOUSE.  87 

the  end  door-ways  and  rising  the  other  side  ;  if  there  is  no  return 
flue  to  be  in  front,  which  is  not  necessary  in  a  house  of  moderate 
dimensions,  let  this  flue  be  carried  so  that  the  covering  tiles  and 
plaister  may  be  within  three  inches  of  the  level  of  the  front  and 
end  walls,  upon  which  a  board  may  be  supported  with  bricks,  to  be 
brought  on  an  exact  level  with  the  front  wall,  for  the  convenience  of 
placing  thereon  a  number  of  pots  of  strawberries,  for  forcing,  or  any 
other  small  plants ;  and,  moreover,  the  flue  being  carried  near  the 
glasses,  the  heat  will  be  particularly  efficacious  in  repelling  the  cold 
external  air,  frost,  damps,  &c.  and  also  in  distributing  the  heat  more 
equally  to  all  parts  of  tlie  house :  for  the  several  returns  in  the 
back  wall,  will  counterbalance  the  strong  heat  discharged  by  this 
first  range  where  most  wanted. 

The  first  range  being  continued  round  the  front  and  ends,  must 
then  be  carried  along  the  back  wall  in  four  or  six  returns,  which 
will  be  sufficient  to  expend  all  the  heat  before  its  discharge  into  the 
chimney,  which  must  be  carried  up  immediately  from  the  end  of 
the  uppermost  or  last  flue,  either  in  or  outside  of  the  back  wall,  so 
as  not  to  appear  in  the  inside  of  the  house,  and  particularly  in  the 
opposite  end  to  the  fire-place. 

The  under  range  of  flues,  immediately  communicating  with  the 
fire,  ought  to  be  four  bricks  on  edge  deep,  that  they  may  not  be  too 
soon  stopped  with  the  soot,  and  all  the  flues  eight  inches  in  the  clear, 
and  covered  with  broad  tiles,  the  several  returns  may  be  made  three 
bricks  on  edge  deep  ;  and,  in  the  beginning  of  the  first  bottom  flue, 
you  may  have  a  sliding  iron  regulator,  to  use  occasionally  in  ad- 
mitting more  or  less  heat,  as  it  may  seem  necessary  ;  being  very 
careful,  as  you  proceed,  that  the  brick-work  of  each  flue  be  carefully 
jointed  with  the  best  mortar  for  that  purpose,  and  well  pointed 
within,  that  no  smoke  can  get  out,  having  each  return  closely  co* 
vered  with  broad  tiles,  well  bedded  and  jointed  with  mortar,  cover- 
ing the  uppermost  flues  also  with  broad  thick  tiles  the  whole  width, 
all  very  closely  laid  and  joined  as  above,  and  the  said  uppermost  or 
last  range  of  flues,  to  terminate,  as  before  observed,  in  a  vent  or 
chimney  at  one  end  of  the  back  wall ;  or,  if  two  separate  sets  of 
flues,  a  chimney  at  each  end,  in  which  you  may  contrive  an  iron 
slider,  near  its  communication  with  the  last  flue,  to  confine  the  heat 
more  or  less  on  particular  occasions,  or  to  prevent  its  passing  off 
too  quickly,  or  becoming  of  too  weakly  a  degree. 

In  very  wide  stoves,  flues  are  continued  immediately  round  the 
bark-pit,  within  an  inch  or  two  of  the  wall,  to  form  a  vacancy  for 
the  heat  to  come  up  more  freely,  and  also  to  prevent  its  drying  the 
tan  of  the  bark-bed  too  much,  which  flues  may  be  used  occasionally 
or  generally,  by  the  assistance  of  a  sliding  iron  regulator,  to  admit 
or  exclude  the  heat  less  or  more  as  it  may  appear  expedient. 

You  should  be  very  careful  that  neither  the  fire-place,  nor  flues, 
be  carried  too  near  any  part  of  the  wood-work,  lest  it  should  take 
fire. 

Proceed  now  to  set  out  the  cavity  for  the  bark-pit,  first  allowing 
a  space  of  eighteen  inches,  or  rather  two  feet  wide  round  the  front 
and  both  ends,  and  also  a  walk  of  two  feet,  or  two  and  a  half,  along 


88  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  [JAW. 

the  back  wall  for  the  convenience  of  walking,  watering  and  at- 
tending the  plants  ;  then  in  the  middle  space  is  formed  the  pit  for 
the  bark-bed,  six,  seven  or  eight  feet  wide,  or  whatever  it  may 
allow,  and  the  whole  length  of  the  house,  the  end  walks  excepted ; 
which  is  to  be  three  feet  deep,  and  surrounded  with  a  nine  inch 
brick  wall,  coping  it  all  round  with  a  timber  plate,  framed  and  mor- 
tised together,  which  effectually  secures  the  brick-work  i  sometimes 
a  four  inch  wall  is  made  to  do,  as  by  such  more  room  is  gained  in 
the  pit;  this  will  answer  very  well,  but  is  not  so  permanent. 

The  top  of  this  pit  ought  to  be  exactly  on  a  level  with  the  front 
wall,  and  the  bottom  free  from  any  lodgment  of  water  at  any  sea- 
son, for  it  would  soak  up  through  the  bark,  destroy  its  fermenta- 
tion, and  render  it  useless ;  therefore,  this  must  be  taken  into  con- 
sideration at  the  time  of  building  the  outside  walls,  when,  if  any 
dampness  is  apprehended,  the  front  wall  must  be  raised  three  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  floor;  if  not,  two  feet  will  be  sufficient,  and 
the  pit  may  be  sunk  twelve  inches ;  the  bottom  of  which  must  be 
•well  paved  with  brick  or  stone,  to  prevent  the  bark  coming  in  con- 
tact with  the  earth,  which  would  cause  it  to  cool  and  rot  suddenly. 

The  walks  round  the  pit  must  be  neatly  paved  either  with  brick 
or  cut  stone  ;  this  being  very  necessary  for  the  convenience  of  per- 
forming the  occasional  operations  of  culture,  as  well  as  to  admit 
walking  round  to  view  the  plants,  and  gather  the  produce  of  such  as 
yield  any:  as  the  pine-apple,  and  such  other  plants  as  are  occasionally 
introduced  for  forcing  their  fruit  to  early  perfection. 

The  timber-framing,  and  glass-work,  for  enclosing  the  whole, 
•will  consist  of  a  close-continued  range  of  glass-sashes  all  along  the 
front,  both  ends,  or  part  of  them,  and  the  entire  roof,  quite  up  to 
the  back  wall ;  each  sash,  both  for  upright  and  roof  lights  being 
three  feet  six  inches,  or  four  feet  wide ;  and  for  the  support  of 
which,  a  framing  of  timber  is  to  be  erected  on  the  brick  walling, 
conformable  to  the  width  and  length  of  the  sashes. 

For  the  reception  of  the  perpendicular  glasses  in  the  front  and 
ends,  substantial  timber  plates  are  placed  along  the  top  of  the  walls, 
upon  which  is  erected  uprights,  distant  from  one  another  the  width 
of  the  sashes,  framed  into  a  plate  or  crown-piece  above,  of  sufficient 
height  to  raise  the  whole  front  head  high  from  the  floor,  both  ends 
corresponding  with  the  front  and  back ;  a  plate  of  timber  is  also  to 
be  framed  to  the  back  wall  above,  to  receive  the  sloping  bars  from 
the  frame-work  in  front ;  proper  groves  being  formed  in  the  front 
plates  below  and  above,  to  receive  the  ends  of  the  perpendicular 
sashes,  which  are  to  be  so  contrived  as  to  slide  backward  and  for- 
ward, one  beside  the  other,  for  the  admitting  of  fresh  air,  8cc. 

From  the  top  of  the  upright  framing  in  front,  are  to  be  carried 
substantial  cross-bars  or  bearers,  sloping  to  the  top  of  the  back 
wall,  where,  being  also  a  timber-plate,  they  are  to  be  framed  at  both 
ends  into  these  plates,  at  regular  distances,  to  receive  and  support 
the  slope-glasses  of  the  roof,  placed  close  together  upon  these  cross-* 
bars  or  rafters ;  or  these  rafters  may  be  formed  so  as  to  have  a  par- 
tition of  one  inch  and  half  between  the  glasses,  on  top  of  which  is  to 
be  placed  a  slip  of  board,  four  inches  wide,  to  prevent  the  raiijr 


JAN.]  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  89 

working  down  along  the  edges  of  the  sash  frames :  these  rafters 
must  be  narrowed  on  the  under  side,  the  better  to  admit  the  rays  of 
light  and  heat. 

The  lights  are  to  be  laid  on,  in  two  ranges  or  tiers,  sliding  one 
over  the  other,  of  sufficient  length  together,  to  reach  quite  from 
the  top  of  the  upright  framing  in  front,  to  the  top  of  the  back  wall: 
if  these  lights  be  placed  close  together,  the  rafters  must  be  grooved 
lengthwise,  above,  to  carry  off*  the  wet  which  may  fall  between 
them ;  making  the  upper  end  of  the  top  tier,  shut  close  up  to  the 
wall-plate,  running  under  a  proper  coping  of  wood  or  lead,  fixed 
along  above  close  to  the  wall,  and  lapped  down  with  due  width  to 
cover  and  shoot  off  the  wet  sufficiently  from  the  upper  termination, 
of  these  sashes :  likewise  along  the  outer  edge  of  the  top  or  crown- 
plate  in  front,  may  be  a  small  conductor  of  lead  or  wood,  to  receive 
the  water  from  the  slope-glasses  and  convey  it  to  one  or  both  ends, 
without  running  down  upon  the  upright  sashes  ;  being  careful  that 
the  top  part  behind  is  well  framed  and  secured,  water-tight,  and 
finish  the  top  of  the  back  wall  a  little  higher  than  the  glasses,  with 
a  neat  coping  the  whole  length. 

In  every  part,  the  wood-work  must  be  made  with  the  most  criti- 
cal exactness,  and  all  the  sashes  so  fitted  as  to  slide  close  and  free ; 
neat  stays  of  iron  may  be  placed  on  the  under  side  of  the  roof  lights, 
sunk  into  the  wood  and  made  fast  by  wood  screws,  in  order  to 
strengthen  them  ;  and  the  rafters  or  cross-bars  are  to  be  stayed 
with  wood,  at  proper  distances,  to  keep  each  firm  in  its  place.  In 
wide  stoves  it  will  also  be  necessary  to  place  a  neat  upright,  either 
of  wood  or  iron,  inside,  under  each  of  these  rafters,  to  prevent  their 
bending  under  the  weight  of  the  glasses,  which  are  generally  made 
to  rest  on  the  back-wall  of  the  bark-pit. 

In  glazing  the  roof-lights  the  panes  are  to  lap  over  each  other 
about  half  an  inch ;  the  vacancies  where  they  overlap  are  by  some 
closed  up  with  putty,  others  leave  them  open,  which  is  the  better  way 
when  not  too  wide  ;  in  order  both  for  the  air  to  enter  moderately,  and 
for  the  rancid  vapours,  arising  from  the  fermentation  of  the  bark- 
bed,  &c.  within,  thereby  to  be  suffered  to  pass  off;  and  also  that  such 
as  condense  against  the  glasses,  may  discharge  itself  at  those  places 
without  dropping  upon  the  plants  :  the  glass  for  this  purpose  should 
be  of  a  small  size,  and  not  more  than  from  six  to  eight  inches 
square  ;  such  would  lap  closer  than  larger  sized  glass,  and  form  a 
much  stronger  roof.  The  great  apertures  occasioned  by  the  crook- 
edness of  large  panes  admit  the  cold  air  so  copiously  in  severe 
weather,  that  incessant  fires  must  be  kept  up  to  counteract  it,  which 
certainly  is  injurious  to  the  plants ;  but  of  two  evils  you  must  take 
the  least;  and,  besides,  an  extraordinary  quantity  of  fuel  is  consum- 
ed this  way  which  might  be  saved,  and  the  plants  kept  in  better 
health,  by  adopting  the  smaller  sized  glass.  Generally  when  a 
large  pane  is  pinned  down,  so  as  to  form  some  kind  of  a  close  lap, 
it  presses  so  hard  on  the  other,  that  one  of  them,  and  sometime? 
both  crack:, which  permits  the  rain  to  run  down  frequently  on 
plants  that  too  much  moisture  in  the  winter  season  will  absolutely 


90  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  [JAN. 

destroy.     As  to  the  upright  glasses,  in  the  front  and  ends,  they  arc 
to  be  glazed  in  the  ordinary  way  of  house  sashes. 

The  inside  walls  should  all  be  well  plaistered  ;  the  flues  must 
also  be  furnished  off  with  the  best  plaistering-mortar  that  can  be 
made,  in  order  to  prevent  any  cracks  through  which  the  smoke 
ntight  pass  into  the  house,  which  cannot  be  too  carefully  guarded 
against,  as  it  is  extremely  injurious  to  plants. ...causing  them  to  drop 
their  leaves,  and  if  continued  long  in  the  house  will  totally  destroy 
them. 

All  the  wood-work  both  within  and  without,  should  be  painted 
white  in  oil  colour,  for  its  preservation  and  to  give  the  whok  a  lively 
appearance ;  and  the  inside  walls  and  flues  white-washed,  so  as  to 
reflect  the  rays  of  light  in  every  direction,  which  will  be  of  very 
considerable  advantage  to  the  plants. 

As  to  any  necessary  internal  erections,  there  may  be  ranges  of 
narrow  shelves,  for  pots  of  small  plants,  erected  where  thought 
most  convenient ;  some  behind  over  the  flues,  a  single  range  near 
th£  top  glasses  towards  the  back  part,  supported  either  by  brackets, 
suspended  from  the  cross-bars  above,  or  by  uprights  erected  on  the 
wall  of  the  bark-pit :  a  range  or  two  of  narrow  shelves  may  also  be 
placed  occasionally  along  both  ends  and  in  front,  above  the  flues  ; 
all  of  which  shelves  will  serve  for  holding  pots  of  various  sorts  of 
small  plants,  that  do  not  require  to  be  plunged  in  the  bark-bed ; 
also  for  pots  of  strawberries,  flowers,  &c.  in  winter  and  spring  for 
forcing  ;  which  being  placed  near  the  glasses,  are  generally  the 
most  prosperous  and  successful  in  their  productions. 

Outside,  at  the  back  part  of  the  stove,  should  be  erected  a  neat 
shed,  the  whole  length  of  the  house,  completely  walled  in,  to  con- 
tain the  fuel,  garden-pots,  &c.  &c.  and  for  the  convenience  of  at- 
tending the  fires  and  keeping  them  regularly  burning  :  this  shed 
will  answer  to  defend  the  back  wall  of  the  stove  from  the  cold  air 
and  frosts,  to  stow  all  garden  utensils  and  tools  in  when  out  of  use, 
in  order  to  preserve  them  from  the  injuries  of  the  weather  ;  and 
also  to  lay  quantities  of  earth  in  occasionally,  to  have  it  dry  and 
ready  for  use  on  the  various  occasions  that  may  occur  during  winter 
and  spring. 

Some  stoves  or  hot-houses,  are  furnished  with  top  covers  to 
defend  the  glasses,  when  found  necessary,  from  frosts,  heavy 
rains,  or  hail ;  sometimes  by  slight  sliding  shutters,  fitted  to  the 
width  of  the  separate  sashes ;  but  these  are  inconvenient,  and  re- 
quire considerable  time  and  trouble  in  their  application ;  others  are 
formed  by  painted  canvas  or  tarpawlings  being  rolled  up  on  long 
wooden  rollers,  and  fixed  lengthways  all  along  the  top  of  the  stove, 
just  above  the  upper  ends  of  the  top-glasses  ;  which,  by  means  of 
lines  and  pullies,  are  let  down  very  quickly,  and  by  the  same  means 
are  rolled  up  again  almost  as  expeditiously ;  these,  however,  are 
sometimes  liable  to  be  moved  and  dashed  about  by  violent  winds, 
so  as  to  break  the  glasses  ;  but  by  using  the  small  glass  before  re- 
commended, the  use  of  coverings,  except  upon  very  extraordinary 
occasions,  may  be  totally  obviated.  Indeed  it  would  be  advisable 
in  very  severe  frost,  especially  when  accompanied  with  a  piercing 


JAN.]  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  91 

wind,  to  hang  and  make  fast  a  tarpawling  in  front  of  the  upright-sashes, 
it  will  be  of  great  service,  for  then  much  less  fire,  will  preserve  a 
due  heat  in  the  house ;  and  the  necessity  of  too  much  fire-heat, 
ought  to  be  avoided  by  every  possible  means. 

The  above  kind  of  stove  is  calculated  not  only  as  a  pinery  for 
the  culture  of  the  pine-apple,  but  for  all  sorts  of  tender  exotics  of 
similar  quality ;  some  requiring  to  be  plunged  in  the  bark -bed, 
others  placed  on  top  of  the  flues  and  shelves,  and  others  nearer  the 
glasses ;  the  same  stove  serving  to  force  fruits,  flowers,  Sec.  as  before 
observed. 

Such  stoves  as  are  intended  principally  for  pine-apples,  and  for 
forcing  flowers,  strawberries,  and  some  sorts  of  culinary  esculents, 
&c.  may  be  only  ten  or  twelve  feet  high  behind,  which  generally 
answers  better  for  such  than  those  of  more  lofty  dimensions ;  or  by 
raising  the  bark-pit  within  wholly  above  the  surface,  and  sinking 
the  front  walk  about  a  foot,  the  roof  may  be  lower,  and  such  plants 
by  that  means,  be  brought  nearer  to  the  glass,  which  proves  ex- 
tremely advantageous  to  their  growth. 

When  stoves  are  erected  for  cultivating  and  bringing  to  the 
greatest  possible  perfection  the  taller  kinds  of  exotics,  they  are 
made  from  sixteen  to  twenty,  or  even  to  twenty-five  feet  high  in 
the  back  wall,  with  width  in  proportion,  by  only  six  feet  height  in 
the  front  glasses,  in  order  to  suit  low  as  well  as  high  plants ;  and 
with  the  roof  sloping  quite  from  the  top  of  the  back  wall  to  the 
front,  and  wholly  of  glass-work,  having  a  capacious  bark-pit  within, 
formed  towards  the  front;  behind  which  is  sometimes  a  pit  of 
earth,  either  on  a  level  with  the  bark-pit  or  with  the  back  walk,  to 
receive  particular  plants ;  in  rear  of  this  is  a  walk,  between  which 
and  the  back  wall  is  formed  a  border  of  good  earth,  to  receive  the 
tallest-growing  plants  which  are  intended  to  be  cultivated.  In  this 
kind  of  stove  you  may  cultivate  exotics,  &c.  from  the  lowest  to 
almost  the  highest  stature,  by  placing  those  of  the  shortest  growth 
forward,  the  tallest  behind,  and  so  on  according  to  their  several 
gradations  of  height. 

However,  these  very  lofty  and  capacious  stoves  are  not  recom- 
mended for  general  use,  they  being  both  very  expensive  in  erect- 
ing, and  in  the  consumption  of  a  great  quantity  of  fuel ;  and  not  so 
well  calculated  for  the  growth  of  the  general  run  of  exotics,  as 
stoves  of  a  moderate  height. 

Flues  ought  not  to  be  erected  along  the  back  walls,  in  such  stoves 
as  have  plants  trained  thereto  or  growing  immediately  close  to 
them  ;  and  one  range  round  the  front  and  ends  will  not  be  sufficient 
to  keep  up  a  due  warmth  in  such  large  houses  in  severe  weather, 
•without  consuming  an  immense  quantity  of  fuel,  and  at  times  rais- 
ing a  scorching  heat  in  the  parts  of  the  house  next  to  this  single 
range,  by  overheating  it  in  order  to  force  through  it  a  heat  suffi- 
cient to  keep  the  entire  of  the  house  warm ;  this  can  never  protect 
and  promote  the  growth  and  health  of  plants  so  well  as  that  gradual 
glow  of  moderate  warmth  issuing  from  flues  of  several  returns, 
carried  under  the  walks,  or  other  convenient  places,  as  well  a* 
round  the  front  and  end  walls,  either  in  double  or  single  ranges,  and 


92  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  [JAN. 

especially  under  the  back  walk :  over  which  broad  planks  may  be  laid, 
resting  on  loose  bricks,  for  the  convenience  of  walking  during  the 
\vinter  season  ;  from  these  the  heat  will  be  equally  diffused  through 
the  whole  house,  and  to  produce  which,  half  the  fuel  will  not  be 
necessary  that  must  be  consumed  in  keeping  the  house  warm  by  a 
single  range  round  the  front  and  ends  only. 

In  the  erection  of  stoves  it  will  not  be  necessary  to  have  the  ends 
glazed  more  than  half  the  width  of  the  house,  or  at  most,  to  within 
eighteen  inches  of  the  doors  ;  leaving  that  much  for  piers  between 
the  doors  and  the  upright  end  sashes. ...the  remainder  may  be  car- 
ried up  with  brick  as  high  as  the  roof-lights. 

In  stoves  that  are  so  long  as  to  require  two  fires,  each  with  its 
respective  ranges  of  flues,  it  will  be  proper  to  make  a  glass  partition 
in  tne  middle,  and  to  have  two  tan-pits,  that  there  may  be  two  dif- 
ferent degrees  of  heat  for  plants  from  different  countries  ;  and  were 
a  range  of  stoves  built  all  in  one,  and  divided  by  glass  partitions,  at 
least  half  the  width  of  the  house,  towards  the  front,  it  would  be  of 
great  advantage  to  the  collection,  because  they  may  have  different 
degrees  of  heat  according  to  their  different  natures,  and  likewise  the 
air  in  each  division  may  be  shifted,  by  sliding  the  glasses  of  the  par- 
titions, or  by  opening  the  glass  door  which  should  be  made  between 
each  division,  for  the  more  easy  passage  from  one  to  the  other. 

In  the  warmest  of  these  stoves  or  divisions,  should  be  placed  the 
most  tender  exotic  trees  and  plants.  These  being  natives  of  very 
warm  countries,  should  be  plunged  in  the  bark -bed,  and  over  the 
flues  may  be  shelves  on  which  to  place  the  various  species  of  Cac- 
tus's, Euphorbiums,  Mesembryanthmeums,  and  other  very  tender 
succulent  plants,  which  require  to  be  kept  dry  in  winter. 

As  in  this  stove  are  placed  the  plants  of  the  hottest  parts  of  the 
East  and  West  Indies,  the  heat  should  be  kept  up  equal  to  that 
marked  Ananas  upon  the  botanical  thermometers,  and  should  never 
be  suffered  to  be  more  than  eight  or  ten  degrees  cooler  at  most,  nor 
should  the  spirit  be  raised  above  ten  degrees  higher  in  the  thermo- 
meter during  the  winter  season,  both  which  extremes  will  be  equally 
injurious  to  the  plants. 

The  roofs  of  some  stoves  are  so  made,  that  the  glasses  do  not 
slide  either  up  or  down,  which  is  an  evil  of  great  magnitude  ;  for 
where  the  sun  is  so  powerful  in  the  months  of  April  and  May,  as  it 
is  in  every  part  of  the  United  States,  the  superabundance  of  heat 
collected  in  the  house  on  very  hot  days,  cannot  be  discharged  by  the 
doors  and  sliding  upright-sashes  in  front,  which  forces  the  plants 
into  an  extreme  state  of  vegetation,  and  renders  them  unfit  to  bear 
the  open  air  towards  the  latter  end  of  May,  when  otherwise  the 
greater  number  of  them  might  be  brought  out  with  safety,  without 
receiving  such  a  check  by  the  transition,  as  many  cannot  recover 
during  the  summer,  s.nd  causing  many  more  to  appear  much  less 
beautiful  than  they  otherwise  would,  were  they  gradually  inured  to 
the  open  air  in  the  hot-house  before  their  being  brought  out,  by 
.occasionally  sliding  open  the  roof  as  \vell  as  the  front-glasses,  and 
never  letting  the  heat  arise  in  the  house  to  too  high  a  degree. 
Those  destined  to  remain  in  the  bark-bed,  during  summer,  such 


JAN.]  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  93 

as  the  pine-apple,  Sec.  are  still  worse  off;  for,  if  the  roof  is  kept  on, 
they  are  rendered  good  for  nothing,  and  if  taken  totally  off,  both 
them  and  the  bark-bed  are  exposed  to  heavy  rains,  which  destroy 
the  heat  of  the  one,  and  consequently  injures  the  health,  vigour,  and 
fruit  of  the  other :  therefore  all  stoves  ought  to  be  constructed  with 
sliding  roof  as  well  as  front  lights. 

Nursery  and  Succession  Stoves. 

Besides  the  main  bark-stove  already  described,  it  is  very  con- 
venient to  have  one  or  two  smaller,  such  as  a  nursery-pit,  and  a 
succession  stove,  particularly  where  there  are  large  collections, 
and  more  especially  in  the  culture  of  pine-apples  ;  one  serving  as  a 
nursery-pit,  in  which  to  strike  and  nurse  the  young  off-spring 
crowns,  and  suckers  of  the  old  pines  for  propagation  ;  the  other  as 
a  succession-house  for  receiving  the  year  old  plants  from  the 
nursery-pit,  and  forwarding  them  a  year  to  a  proper  size  for  fruit- 
ing, as  succession  plants,  to  furnish  the  main  stove  or  fruiting- 
house  every  autumn,  to  succeed  the  old  plants  then  done  fruiting. 

These  smaller  stove  departments  prove  materially  useful  in  the 
culture  of  pines,  particularly  to  raise  and  nurse  the  youup;  plants, 
until  arrived  to  a  proper  age  and  size  to  produce  fruit;  then  moved 
into  the  main  stove  or  fruiting-house,  which  being  thus  supplied 
from  these  smaller  stoves,  with  a  succession  of  fruiting  plants  an- 
nually, without  being  crowded  or  incommoded  with  the  rearing  of 
the  said  succession  plants,  proves  a  particular  advantage,  not  only 
in  the  culture  of  the  fruiting  plants,  as  they  often  require  a  higher 
degree  of  heat  than  the  succession  plants,  at  particular  times,  in 
order  to  forward  and  improve  the  growth  of  their  fruit ;  but  it  is  also 
making  the  best  advantage  of  this  main  department,  to  have  the 
bark-bed  instantly  filled  with  fruiting  plants  only,  producing  a 
full  crop  of  proper  sized  pine-apples  every  year,  which  could  not  al- 
ways be  effected  with  such  certainty  and  perfection  without  the 
aid  of  these  succession  stoves ;  because  the  pine-plants  in  their 
infant  state  require  sometimes  different  management  from  the 
fruiting  plants,  particularly  in  respect  to  the  degree  of  fire-heat, 
which,  in  general,,  should  be  more  moderate  than  for  the  fruiting 
plants,  lest  too  much  should  force  them  into  fruit  in  their  minor 
growth,  when  incapable  of  producing  such  in  any  tolerable  per- 
fection. 

Therefore,  these  smaller  succession  stoves  may  be  erected  as 
appendages  to  the  main  house,  or  may  be  detached  at  some  little 
distances,  as  may  be  convenient;  though  if  the  situation  admits, 
it  may  be  both  more  convenient  and  ornamental  to  join  them  in  a 
line  with  the  main  stove,  one  at  each  end,  and  nearly  of  the  same 
construction,  but  smaller  both  in  length,  width,  and  height,  if 
thought  proper :  these  are  sometimes  formed  in  the  manner  of  a 
common  detached  bark-pit,  without  any  upright  glasses  in  front, 
having  a  wall  all  round,  five  or  six  feet  high  behind,  gradually  slop- 
ing at  each  end,  to  about  four  feet  in  front,  and  with  only  sliding 
glasses  at  top,  more  particularly  the  nursery  stove,  commonly  and 


94  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  [JAM. 

simply  called  the  pit,  because  the  whole  internal  space  in  length  and 
width  is  often  allotted  entirely  as  a  pit  for  a  bark-bed,  without  any 
walk  within,  or  door  for  entrance,  the  necessary  culture  being  per- 
formed by  sliding  open  the  glasses  at  top,  and  the  flues  for  the  fires 
being  formed  in  the  upper  part  of  the  back  wall,  above  the  surface 
height  of  the  bark-bed  :  however,  it  may  be  more  eligible  to  form 
the  succession  stove  particularly,  nearly  like  the  main  one,  with 
erect  glasses  in  front,  and  sloping  sashes  at  top,  with  a  door  for  en- 
trance, and  an  alley  or  walk  next  the  back  wall  at  least,  or  more 
eligible  if  continued  all  round  the  bark-pit. 

Observing,  however,  if  these  smaller  stoves  are  joined  to  the  end 
of  the  main  one,  they  may  be  divided  from  it  only  by  a  sliding  glass 
partition  for  communication  with  each  other,  particularly  the  suc- 
cession and  main  stove,  but  with  separate  furnaces,  and  flues  to  each 
department,  because  the  young  pine  plants  do  not  at  all  times  re- 
quire the  same  degree  of  fire-heat  as  the  older  pines,  especially 
those  of  proper  size  for  fruiting ;  so  that  by  having  separate  fires, 
the  heat  can  be  regulated  accordingly. 

The  nursery  stove  or  pit  may  be  of  smaller  dimensions,  in  re- 
spect to  width  and  height,  than'the  succession  house,  if  thought  con- 
venient :  and  if  designed  wholly  as  a  pit  without  any  path  or  walk 
within,  six  or  seven  feet  width  may  be  sufficient,  by  five  or  six  high 
in  the  back  wall,  and  four  in  front,  the  whole  internal  space  being 
filled  with  tan  three  feet  deep  to  form  the  bark-bed :  serving  chiefly 
as  a  nursery  in  which  to  strike  and  nurse  the  annual  increase  of 
crowns  and  suckers  of  the  ananas  or  pine-plants  the  first  year  ;  also 
to  raise  many  tender  plants  from  seeds,  cuttmgs,  Sec.  without  in- 
cumbering  the  main  stove ;  and  when  they  are  forwarded  to  such  a 
state  of  growth  as  to  require  more  room,  they  are  removed  to  the 
succession-house. 

But  the  succession-house  may  be  nearly  on  the  plan  of  the  main 
stove,  though  of  smaller  dimensions  both  in  width  and  height ; 
and  is  intended  to  receive  the  year-old  pine-plants  from  the  pit  or 
nursery  stove.  In  order  to  plunge  them  at  greater  distances,  suf- 
ficient to  give  the  whole  proper  scope  to  take  their  full  growth 
another  year,  when  they  will  generally  be  arrived  to  a  proper  size 
for  fruiting  the  year  following :  being  previously  removed  in  au- 
tumn to  the  main  fruiting  stove  to  succeed  the  old  fruiting  plants, 
which  generally  by  September  have  all  yielded  their  produce,  are 
then  removed  away,  and  their  place  supplied  by  a  sufficient  quan- 
tity of  large  plants  from  the  succession-house,  being  arrived  to 
a  proper  state  of  growth  to  produce  fruit  next  summer^:  the 
largest  succession-house  is  at  the  same  time  replenished  with 
the  plants  from  the  nursery  pit,  which  next  autumn  will  proba- 
bly be  also  arrived  to  a  proper  size  for  removing  to  the  fruiting- 
house  to  succeed  the  others,  and  the  nursery-pit  supplied  with 
young  crowns  and  suckers  of  the  year,  from  the  fruit  and  old  plants, 
to  strike  and  forward  them  in  ready  successions  for  the  above  oc- 
casions. 

Thus,  by  having  the  different  stove  departments  always  furnished 
with  pine  plants  of  three  different  stages  of  growth,  succeeding  one 


JAN.]  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  95 

another  regularly,  i.  e.  the  nursery  pit  containing  the  yearly  crowns 
and  suckers,  the  succession  pit  the  one  and  two  years  plants,  and 
the  main  stove  the  fruiting  plants ;  a  constant  succession  is  thereby 
annually  obtained;  for  the  same  individual  plants  never  produce 
fruit  but  once  ;  they,  however,  produce  a  plentiful  supply  of  crowns 
and  suckers  which  commence  proper  plaints,  attaining  a  fruiting 
state  in  regular  succession. 

However,  in  many  places,  the  situation  or  convenience  not  ad- 
mitting but  of  one  common  stove  to  raise  and  forward  the  pines  and 
other  exotics,  in  their  different  stages  of  growth  ;  at  least  with  pro- 
bably the  assistance  only  of  a  small  detached  bark-pit,  or  a  bark  and 
dung  hot-bed  under  a  large  garden  frame,  to  strike  and  nurse  the 
yearling  crowns  and  suckers  of  the  pines,  &c.  of  each  year,  until 
they  are  about  a  year  old,  then  moved  into  the  stove  ;  where,  with 
the  proper  requisite  culture,  are  produced  not  only  very  good  pine- 
apples, but  also  many  curious  exotics,  flowers,  other  fruits,  &c.  at 
an  early  season. 

But  having  a  main  stove  with  two  smaller  ones  adjoining,  nearly 
on  the  same  plan  as  above  hinted,  you  can  always,  with  greater  cer- 
tainty, obtain  a  regular  annual  succession  of  fruiting  pines  in  per- 
fection. 

A  private  passage,  or  small  door,  made  from  the  back-shed  into 
the  hot-house,  close  to  one  of  the  ends,  or  at  any  convenient  place, 
will  be  found  extremely  useful  in  severe  weather,  for  entering  into 
the  house  to  examine  the  temperature  of  the  heat,  or  to  do  the  other 
necessary  work,  when  it  would  be  ineligible  to  open  the  outer 
doors, 

It  would  be  an  eligible  way,  for  persons  who  have  large  collec- 
tions of  exotics,  to  have  the  green-house  in  the  middle,  with  a  stove 
and  glass-case  at  each  end ;  the  stoves  to  be  next  the  green-house, 
and  the  glass-cases  at  the  extremities,  made  exactly  in  the  same 
manner  as  the  bark-stoves,  and  to  range  with  them. 

These  glass-cases  being  furnished  with  flues,  but  no  bark-pits,  are 
in  fact  dry  stoves ;  they  may  be  kept  of  different  temperatures  of 
heat,  and  ought  to  be  furnished  with  roof  and  front  coverings  of 
some  kind,  to  be  used  occasionally.  The  bark  stoves  may  also  be 
kept  of  different  temperatures,  so  as  to  suit  the  various  habits  of 
the  plants. 

Thus  by  contriving  the  green-house  in  the  middle,  and  a  stove 
and  glass-case  at  each  end,  there  will  be  a  conveniency  for  keeping 
plants  from  all  parts  of  the  world ;  which  can  not  be  otherwise  main- 
tained in  good  health,  but  by  placing  them  in  the  different  degrees 
of  heat,  corresponding  with  that  of  their  native  countries. 

The  Dry-Stove. 

This  Stove  differs  in  no  wise  from  the  bark-stove,  but  in  not  hav- 
ing a  bark-pit ;  it  is  furnished  with  flues  as  the  other,  and  conse- 
quently produces  a  more  dry  heat ;  being  intended  principally  for 
the  culture  of  some  very  succulent  tender  exotics  of  parched  soils, 
that  require  to  be  kept  always  dry.  Persons  who  have  full  collec- 


96  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  [!AN, 

tions  of  exotics  prefer  this  kind  of  stove,  in  order  to  deposit  the 
most  succulent  kinds  therein,  separate  from  plants  which  perspire 
more  freely,  lest  the  damp  occasioned  by  such  perspiration,  and  the 
more  frequent  watering  of  these  kinds,  should  be  imbibed  by  the 
succulents  and  injure  them. 

However,  most  of  the  tender  succulent  kinds  are  cultivated  and 
preserved  in  the  bark-stove,  placed  on  shelves,  and  in  dry  situations, 
with  very  good  success. 

In  this  kind  of  stove  are  erected  moveable  shelves  or  stands 
above  one  another,  theatre  ways,  on  which  to  place  the  pots  of  the 
various  kinds  of  plants  intended  to  be  kept  therein. 

Stoves  have  been  constructed  on  various  other  plans,  according;  to 
the  fancy  of  the  owners  or  their  desire  to  try  experiments ;  some 
circular,  some  cresent  form,  and  others  ranging  north  and  south, 
with  double  roofs  and  upright  sashes,  all  of  glass-work ;  but  these 
not  being  found  to  answer  as  well  as  those  described,  it  is  unneces- 
sary to  take  further  notice  of  them. 

For  the  various  kinds  of  For  ting -Frames,  and  their  respective 
uses,  see  page  28. 

Pines. 

At  this  season  the  pinery  hot-house  requires  good  attendance, 
for  some  of  the  pines  will  now,  towards  the  end  of  the  month, 
be^in  to  show  fruit ;  and  your  assistance  is  at  no  time  more  neces- 
sary than  when  the  fruit  first  appears,  especially  in  one  particular, 
the  supporting  a  proper  bottom  heat ;  for  if  the  heat  of  the  bark- 
bed  is  not  kept  up  at  that  time,  the  young  fruit  will  receive  a  check 
more  than  may  be  imagined  ;  as,  notwithstanding  the  air  of  the 
house  can  be  sufficiently  warmed  by  the  flues,  yet  these  plants  also 
require  always  a  moderately  brisk  growing  heat  to  their  roots,  but 
especially  when  the  fruit  is  young ;  and  without  that  assistance, 
they  will  not  advance  freely  in  the  first  growth,  and  being  checked 
therein,  will  be  much  inferior  in  size  to  what  they  otherwise  would 
have  been. 

Examine  therefore  carefully  at  this  time  the  heat  of  the  bark-bed 
in  which  the  pots  of  pines  are  plunged ;  and  if  you  find  it  very  faint, 
take  up  all  the  pots,  and  let  the  bark  be  forked  up  to  the  bottom. 
But  before  you  proceed  to  this,  if  the  heat  is  found  much  decayed, 
or  the  bark  considerably  wasted,  or  become  very  small  or  earthy, 
it  will  be  aclviseable  to  acid  at  the  same  time  some  new  tan,  first 
removing  away  some  of  the  wasted  bark  at  top  and  sides,  and  then 
fill  up  with  new  bark,  working  the  old  and  new  well  together. 
When  that  is  done,  let  the  pots  be  replunged  again  to  their  rims,  in 
a  regular  manner.  This  will  enliven  the  heat  greatly;  and,  if 
done  in  proper  tkne,  the  young  fruit  will  grow  freely. 

Let  the  fires  be  made  very  regularly  every  evening  and  morning, 
and  take  care  that  they  are  not  made  too  strong,  for  that  would 
be  of  very  bad  consequence ;  and  to  avoid  this,  have  a  thermometer 
placed  in.  the  hot-house,  as  a  ciirectipn  to  regulate  the  degree  of 
heat. 


JAN.]  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  97 

Water  should  be  given  to  the  pine-apple  plants  once  a  week,  or 
as  often  as  it  may  seem  necessary,  and  always  very  moderately; 
and  let  as  little  as  possible  fall  into  the  heart  or  between  the  leaves 
at  this  season. 

For  die  conveniency  of  watering  the  pines  and  other  plants  that 
are  plunged  in  the  bark -bed,  a  long  pipe,  made  of  tin,  would  be 
eligible  to  use  occasionally :  this  should  be  in  three  different  joints, 
in  order  that  it  may  be  shortened  or  lengthened,  as  you  see  it  con- 
venient :  one  of  these  joints  should  have  a  funnel  made  at  the  largest 
end,  that,  by  pouring  the  water  out  of  a  handy  watering-pot  into 
the  funnel,  the  water  is  conveyed  to  the  pots  in  any  part  of  the  bed, 
with  greater  exactness,  without  pouring  it  into  the  heart  of  the 
plants. 

All  other  tender  exotic  plants  in  the  hot-house  or  stove  should  be 
supplied  with  water  as  they  require  it. 

The  woody  kinds  will  require  it  often,  those  of  the  succulent 
tribe  but  seldom  j  or,  at  least,  but  very  little  must  be  given  them 
at  a  time. 

Be  sure  to  have  soft  water  for  watering  the  different  sorts  of 
plants,  for  which  purpose  you  may  have  a  tub  or  cistern  in  some 
convenient  part  of  the  house  to  contain  it,  in  which  it  is  to  remain 
till  the  cold  chill  is  completely  off. 

In  the  management  of  the  plants  in  the  bark-bed,  there  must  be 
a  particular  regard  had  to  the  temperature  of  the  bark,  and  the  air 
of  the  house,  that  neither  be  too  violent ;  as  also  to  water  them  fre- 
quently, but  sparingly,  especially  the  shrubby  kinds,  because  when 
they  are  in  a  continual  warmth,  which  will  cause  them  to  perspire 
freely,  if  they  have  not  a  proper  supply  to  answer  their  discharge, 
their  leaves  will  decay  and  soon  fall  off. 

In  very  severe  weather,  when  necessity  requires  strong  fires  to 
be  kept  up  for  any  length  of  time,  and  that  the  internal  air  becomes 
thereby  of  a  dry  and  parching  nature,  it  will  be  well  to  sprinkle  the 
flues  occasionally  with  water,  to  raise  a  comforting  steam  in  the 
house,  and  to  restore  the  air  to  its  true  atmospheric  quality,  which 
is  always  most  congenial  to  the  health  of  plants. 

Every  plant  in  the  hothouse  or  stove,  should  be  kept  perfectly 
clean  from  dust  or  any  sort  of  foulness  ;  if  any  thing  of  that  nature 
appears  on  their  leaves,  let  the  large-leaved  sorts  be  washed  with  a 
sponge,  SvC.  the  others  by  occasionally  watering  them  all  over  the 
top. 

Kidney -beans  raised  in  the  Hot-house. 

Those  who  have  the  conveniency  of  a  hot-house  may  raise  early 
kidney-beans  with  little  trouble.  The  early  cream-coloured  dwarf, 
speckled-dwarf,  and  yellow-dwarf,  are  proper  sorts  for  this  purpose. 

The  method  is  this  :  fill  some  large  pots,  or  oblong  narrow  boxes, 
with  rich  dry  earth,  and  place  them  on  the  top  of  the  surrounding 
wall  of  the  bark -bed,  or  upon  any  of  the  shelves  near  the  glasses, 
observing  to  plant  four  or  five  beans  in  each  about  an  inch  deep ; 
or  if  oblong  boxes,  of  about  two  feet  length,  plant  the  beans  triangu^ 

o 


98  THE  HOT,HOL7SE.  [JAN. 

lar-ways  along  thj  middle,  two  or  three  inches  asunder  :  and  thus, 
the  pots,  8cc.  being  placed  as  above,  the  beans  will  soon  sprout  anci 
come  up. 

When  the  beans  have  sprouted,  sprinkle  the  earth  with  a  little 
water,  which  will  help  the  plants  to  rise  :  when  they  are  up,  water 
them  frequently. 

Let  the  plants  be  supplied  with  proper  waterings  two  or  three 
t*mes  a  week,  and  they  will  grow  freely,  and  produce  plentiful  crops 
of  beans  in  March  and  April. 

Plant  a  successional  crop  in  a  fortnight  or  three  weeks  after,  in 
small  pots,  ready  for  turning  out  with  balls  of  earth  into  the  largev 
pots,  &c. 

Of  Cucumbers  in  the  Hot-house. 

Cucumbers  are  sometimes  raised  early,  in  tolerable  good  perfec-s 
tion,  in  the  hot-house. 

This  is  effected  by  sowing  the  seed,  or  planting  young  plants,  in 
large  pots,  or  oblong  narrow  boxes,  which  are  to  be  placed  in  a  con- 
venient situation  in  the  hot-house,  near  the  glasses ;  the  boxes  for 
this  purpose  may  be  the  same  length  and  depth  as  for  kidney-beans : 
fill  the  pots  or  boxes  with  rich  earth,  and  place  them  up  near  the 
top  glasses,  behind,  or  upon  the  top  of  the  back  or  end  flues,  with 
the  bottoms  raised  or  detached  two  or  three  inches,  that  the  heat  of 
the  flues  may  transpire  freely,  without  injury  to  the  plants. 

But  the  best  situation  in  the  hot-house  for  cucumber  plants,  is  to 
place  them,  by  means  of  supports,  within  about  fifteen  or  eighteen 
inches  of  the  top  glasses,  nearly  under  or  towards  the  upper  ends  of 
the  superior  tier  of  lights,  not  to  shade,  &c.  the  other  plants  below. 

The  seed  may  either  be  sown  in  small  pots,  and  placed  in  a  dung 
hot -bed,  or  in  the  bark-bed  in  the  hot-house  to  raise  the  plants,  or 
may  be  sown  at  once  in  the  pots  or  boxes,  six  or  eight  seeds  in  a 
small  patch  ;  or  in  a  box  of  two  or  three  feet  long  you  may  sow  two 
such  patches  :  and  when  the  plants  are  up,  they  should  be  thinned 
out,  leaving  two  or  three  of  the  strongest  plants  in  each  place. 

Or,  if  you  raise  the  plants  first  in  small  pots  plunged  in  the  bark- 
bed  or  in  a  dung  hot-bed,  let  them  be  afterwards  transplanted,  with 
a  ball  of  earth  about  their  roots,  into  the  boxes  or  larger  pots. 

When  the  runners  of  the  plants  have  advanced  to  the  outside  of 
the  pots  or  boxes,  you  may  fix  up  some  laths  to  support  the  vines 
pr  runners,  which  should  be  fastened  thereto.  Let  them  have  wa- 
$£r  frequently,  for  they  will  require  a  little  every  other  day  at  least. 

Early  Strawberries  in  the  Hot-house. 

.Strawberries  may  be  brought  to  early  perfection  in  the  hot-house  ; 
a-id,  if  desired,  this  is  the  time  to  begin  to  introduce  therein  some 
pots  of  good-bearing  plants. 

The  scarlet  and  alpine  strawberries  are  the  kinds  that  succeed 
best  for  forcing  ;  for  this  purpose  they  should  be  taken  up  and 
in  proper  sized  pots,  either  in  the  months  of  September  or 


THE  HOT-HOUSE.  §0 

October,  as  then  directed,  and  protected  in  garden-frames,  till  wanted 
for  forcing  ;  but,  if  the  weather  permits,  you  may  take  them  up  at 
any  time,  with  balls  of  earth  about  their  roots,  planting  one  good 
plant  in  each  pot ;  always  observing,  to  choose  those  of  two  or  three 
years  old,  and  which  are  full  of  bearers. 

Place  these  pots  towards  the  front  of  the  hot-house,  near  the 
glasses,  and  let  them  have  water  frequently,  especially  when  they 
are  in  blossom,  and  setting  young  fruit ;  but  observing  at  these 
times  not  to  water  too  freely  over  the  flowers,  for  fear  of  washing 
off  the  impregnating  farina,  giving  it  chiefly  to  the  earth  in  the 
pots* 

Of  Flowering  Plants  in  the  Hot-house. 

You  may  now  introduce  into  this  department,  many  kinds  of 
flowering  plants,  to  be  forced  into  bloom  at  an  early  season ;  such 
as  honeysuckles,  African-heaths,  double-flowering  dwarf  almonds, 
and  cherries,  Sec.  also  pots  of  pinks,  carnations,  daisies,  double 
sweet-williams,  rockets,  wall  and  stock-gilly-fiowers,  Sec.  and  pots 
or  glasses  of  any  kind  of  bulbous  roots,  planted  either  in  earth  or 
water,  may  also  be  introduced,  with  a  variety  of  curious  annual  flow- 
ers, which  may  be  sown  in  pots,  and  forwarded  there  to  early  per- 
fection. 


ICO 


FEBRUARY. 


DESIGNS  FOR  A  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 

THE  Kitchen-garden  is  a  principal  district  of  garden-ground' 
allotted  for  the  culture  of  all  kinds  of  esculent  herbs  and  roots  for 
culinary  purposes,  Sec. 

This  may  be  said  to  be  the  most  useful  and  consequential  depart- 
ment of  gardening ;  since  its  products  plentifully  supply  our  tables 
with  the  necessary  support  of  life  :  for  it  is  allowed  that  health  de- 
pends much  on  the  use  of  a  proper  quantity  of  wholesome  vegeta- 
bles ;  so  that  it  is  of  the  utmost  importance  for  every  person  possessed 
of  a  due  extent  of  ground,  to  have  a  good  Kitchen -garden  for  the 
supply  of  his  family.  This  garden  is  not  only  useful  for  raising  all 
sorts  of  esculent  plants  and  herbage,  but  also  all  the  choicer  sorts 
of  tree  and  shrub-fruits,  Sec.  both  on  espaliers  and  standards  ;  and 
the  annual  cultivation  of  the  ground,  by  the  manuring,  digging, 
hoeing,  Sec.  necessary  in  the  culture  of  the  esculent  herbage, 
greatly  encourages  all  sorts  of  fruit-trees,  preserves  them  in  health 
and  vigour,  so  as  always  to  produce  large  and  fair  fruit ;  for  which 
reason,  in  the  Kitchen-garden  should  always  be  planted  the  choicest 
sort  of  fruit-trees,  particularly  for  espaliers  and  walls ;  likewise 
some  standards,  if  set  a  considerable  way  asunder,  so  as  not  to  shade 
the  under-crops  too  much  ;  and  when  the  trees  are  judiciously  dis- 
posed, there  will  be  nearly  the  same  room  for  the  crops  of  herba- 
ceous esculents  as  without  them  ;  so  that  this  garden  may  be  reck- 
oned both  as  a  Kitchen  and  fruit-garden. 

As  to  the  situation  of  this  garden,  with  respect  to  the  other 
districts,  if  designed  principally  as  a  Kitchen  and  fruit-garden, 
distinct  from  the  other  parts,  and  that  there  is  room  for  choice  of 
situation,  it  should  generally  be  placed  detached  entirely  from  the 
pleasure-ground;  also  as  much  out  of  view  of  the  front  of  the  ha- 
bitation as  possible,  at  some  reasonable  distance,  either  behind  it,  or 
towards  either  side  thereof,  so  as  its  walls  or  other  fences  may  not 
obstruct  any  desirable  prospect  either  of  the  pleasure-garden,  fields, 
or  the  adjacent  country  ;  having  regard,  however,  to  place  it,  if 
possible,  where  the  situation  and  soil  is  eligible,  as  hereafter  illus- 
trated ;  and  if  its  situation  is  unavoidably  such  as  to  interfere  with 
the  pleasure-gardens,  so  as  its  fences  may  be  thought  disagreeable 
to  view,  they  may  be  shut  out  from  sight  by  intervening  plantations 
of  shrubs  and  trees. 

But  as  in  many  places  they  are  limited  to  a  moderate  compass  of 
ground,  and  in  others,  though  having  scope  enough,  require  but  a 
small  extent  of  garden,  you  may,  in  either  case,  have  the  Kitchen^ 
fruit,  and  pleasure-garden  all  in  one ;  having  the  priRcipal  walks 
spacious,  and  the  borders  next  them  of  considerable  breadth  j  the 


IEB.]  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  101 

back  part  of  them  planted  with  a  range  of  espalier  fruit-trees,  sur- 
rounding the  quarters  ;  the  front  with  flowers  and  small  shrubs  » 
arid  the  inner  quarters  for  the  growth  of  the  kitchen  vegetables,  &c. 

Situation,  Soil,   Water,  Extent,  &c. 

As  to  situation,  it  can  only  be  observed  in  general,  that  both  high 
and  low,  if  the  soil  be  suitable,  will  produce  good  crops  of  esculent 
herbage  and  fruits  ;  though  a  moderately  low  situation  is  the  most 
preferable,  as  being  less  exposed  to  the  influence  of  cold  cutting 
winds  in  spring,  and  more  retentive  of  moisture  during  the  sum- 
mer months ;  which  are  advantages  worthy  of  attention,  both  on 
account  of  the  early  and  of  the  other  principal  crops.  A  situation  hav- 
ing a  moderate  slope  is  very  eligible  for  this  purpose,  as  in  such  a 
spot  there  will  not  be  any  danger  of  water  standing,  nor  of  being, 
too  wet  at  any  season ;  and  if  it  slopes  toward  the  south,  it  is  the 
more  desirable,  as  it  will  not  only  be  better  defended  from, 
the  cold  north-westerly  winds,  but  by  its  exposure  or  aspect 
inclining  to  the  sun,  you  may  always  expect  to  have  the  earliest 
crops ;  or  when  the  situation  is  in  some  parts  a  little  elevated,  or 
gently  sloping,  and  in  others  low  and  moist,  it  may  be  some  advan- 
tage, as  the  higher  or  sloping  ground  will  suit  some  early  crops,  and 
serve  for  wintering  several  sorts  of  plants  that  are  impatient  of  co- 
pious moisture  in  that  season,  such  as  artichokes,  spinage,  corn  sal- 
lad  lettuce,  &c.  and  the  low  ground  will  be  eligible  for  late  summer 
crops,  as  beets,  kidney-beans,  cauliflowers,  cabbages,  lettuce,  and 
several  others.  However,  as  to  choice  of  situation  and  soil,  this 
only  is  practicable  in  large  estates ;  but  where  persons  are  limited 
to  a  moderate  space,  they  must  be  content  with  such  as  nature  af- 
fords ;  observing  in  this  case,  that  if  the  natural  soil  is  of  a  proper 
temperament  and  depth,  you  need  not  be  under  any  great  anxiety 
about  the  situation,  if  it  is  moderately  dry,  and  not  apt  to  be 
overflowed  in  winter ;  even  in  that  case,  it  may  be  remedied,  or 
greatly  helped,  by  digging  two  or  three  long  narrow  canals,  and 
from  these  some  under-ground  hollow  drains,  the  earth  from  which 
will  help  to  raise  the  contiguous  ground  higher,  and  the  water  in 
the  canals  will  be  convenient  for  watering  the  plants.  Remarking 
that  a  situation  too  wet  in  winter  should  be  guarded  against  as  much 
as  the  nature  of  the  place  will  admit;  for  in  such  land  you  can  never 
have  early  nor  good  general  crops,  nor  will  the  fruit-trees  be  pros- 
perous. 

With  respect  to  soil,  that  for  a  Kitchen-garden,  of  all  otherst 
requires  to  be  naturally  good,  of  depth  enough  for  the  growth  of 
the  large  perpendicular  esculent  roots,  as  carrots,  parsneps,  red 
beet,  horse-radish,  See.  also  for  the  growth  of  fruit-trees,  a  very 
material  article  ;  so  that  the  proper  soil  for  these  general  purposes 
should,  if  possible,  be  from  about  a  foot  and  a  half,  to  two  feet 
deep,  or  more  ;  but  much  less  than  a  foot  and  a  half  depth  will  be 
a  disadvantage  :  so  much  depends  upon  the  quality  of  the  soil  for  a 
Kitchen  and  fruit-garden,  that  where  there  is  scope  of  ground  to 
ehuse  from,  we  cannot  b.e  too  cautious  at  first  in  fixing  on  a  proper 


102  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 

spot,  where  the  soil  is  good,  and  deep  enough,  as  above,  before 
gravel,  clay,  or  other  bad  soils  are  come  at  ;  which  should  always  be 
more  particularly  attended  to  when  designed  to  furnish  the  ground 
with  a  choice  collection  of  fruit-trees,  either  for  walls,  espaliers,  or 
standards  ;  for,  without  a  clue  depth  of  good  earth,  these  will  neither 
bear  well,  nor  be  of  long  duration. 

Different  sorts  of  soils  are  met  with  in  different  parts,  as  loamy, 
clayey,  sandy,  Sec.  A  loamy  soil,  either  of  a  brown  or  black  colour, 
is  the  best  that  can  be  for  this  purpose,  more  particularly  a  light 
sandy  hazel  loam,  which  always  works  pliable  at  all  seasons,  not  apt 
to  be  too  wet  and  cloggy  at  every  shower  of  rain,  nor  bind  in  dry 
hot  weather ;  this  soil,  however,  although  in  many  places  it  is  the 
most  general  superficial  earth,  is  not  common  to  all  parts.  A 
clayey,  strong,  stubborn  soil,  is  the  worst  of  all  earths,  and  must  be 
mended  by  sandy  materials,  ashes,  and  other  loosening  light  sub- 
stances. A  sandy  soil  is  common  in  many  places,  which  is  of  a 
very  light  sharp  nature  ;  this  must  be  fertilized  by  plenty  of  rotten 
dung,  and  strong  earths,  where  they  can  be  easily  procured. 

It  is  observable  that  ground,  which  constantly  produces  good 
crops  of  grain  and  grass,  is  also  proper  for  the  growth  of  all  esculent 
herbs  and  fruit-trees. 

Chuse,  however,  the  best  soil  you  can,  according  to  the  situation 
and  extent  of  your  ground  ;  and  if  it  happens  to  prove  unfavoura- 
ble, art  must  assist ;  for  if  it  is  of  a  light  sandy  nature,  it  may  easily 
be  mended  by  adding  a  quantity  of  any  kind  of  rotten  or  other  good 
dung  ;  and  if  of  a  very  light,  sharp,  hungry  temperament,  earths  of 
stronger  substance,  such  as  loam,  and  the  like,  if  it  can  be  easily  ob- 
tained, must  be  added  occasionally  along  with  plenty  of  dung,  work- 
ing the  whole  with  the  natural  soil  of  the  garden  ;  and  should  your 
garden  be  of  a  clayey,  cold,  damp  nature,  add  light  materials,  both 
of  rich  composts,  and  light  sandy  soils  ;  nothing  is  more  proper* 
where  it  can  be  had,  than  plenty  of  coal  ashes,  &c.  for  opening  and 
warming  all  tough,  stubborn,  cold  soils. 

Water  is  a  very  essential  article  in  a  Kitchen-garden  in  summer, 
to  water  all  new  transplanted  plants,  and  others  that  cannot  subsist 
without  a  due  supply  of  moisture  during  the  drought  of  that  season  ; 
therefore,  in  large  gardens,  where  practicable,  one  or  more  re- 
servoirs of  water  should  be  contrived  in  the  most  convenient  part  of 
the  ground,  either  in  basons  or  narrow  canals,  and  supplied  with 
water  from  some  contiguous  spring,  river,  brook,  pond,  well,  &c. 

The  necessary  space  of  ground  proper  for  a  family  Kitchen- 
garden,  may  be  from  about  a  quarter  of  an  acre,  or  less,  to  six  or 
eight  acres,  or  more,  according  to  the  appropriated  limits  of  ground; 
the  number  and  demand  of  the  family,  the  consumption  by  sales, 
or  the  expense  the  proprietor  would  choose  to  bestow  on  the 
making  and  general  culture.  A  Kitchen-garden  of  an  acre  will 
nearly  employ  one  man,  especially  if  it  be  furnished  with  espalier 
and  other  ifruit  trees,  and  so  in  proportion  to  a  garden  of  smaller  or 
larger  extent :  a  garden  of  the  above  size  will  produce  a  very  plen- 
tiful supply  of  esculent  herbage  and  fruit,  sufficient  at  least  for,  a 
family  of  ten  or  fifteen  persons  ;  but  on  large  estates,  and  where 


rEB.]  THE  KITCHEN^GARDEN. 

the  famiiy  is  considerable  in  proportion,  and  not  limited  to  space  of 
ground,  three  or  four  acres  of  Kitchen-garden  may  be  necessary  ; 
and  some  very  large  families  have  them  of  six  or  eight  acres  ex-- 
tent. 

If  the  produce  is  intended  for  sale,  the  garden  must  be  large  in 
proportion  to  the  demand. 

Fences  for  inclosing  the    Ground. 

With  respect  to  fences  for  inclosing  the  ground,  it  is  most  neces- 
sary to  have  an  effectual  fence  of  some  sort  around  the  Kitchen- 
garden,  both  for  security  of  the  produce,  and  to  defend  tender  and 
early  crops  from  cutting  winds. 

Previous  to  fencing  the  ground,  the  proper  shape  or  form  for  the 
garden  is  to  be  considered  ;  the  most  eligible  form  for  a  Kitchen- 
garden,  is  that  either  of  a  square,  or  oblong  square  ;  but  the  figure 
may  be  varied,  as  the  necessity  of  the  case  may  require  ;  keeping, 
however,  as  near  as  possible,  to  the  square  or  oblong  form,  especial- 
ly if  the  ground  is  to  be  fenced  with  materials  for  training  fruit- 
trees  ;  no  other  shape  answers  so  well  for  that  purpose  ;  for  trial 
having  been  made  of  circles,  ovals,  semi-circles,  angles,  Sec.  none 
succeed  near  so  well  as  the  square  form. 

Different  sorts  of  fences  are  used  for  inclosing  this  ground,  as 
walls,  palings,  and  hedges,  &c. 

Sometimes,  board  fences  or  palings,  are  used,  both  for  protection 
and  for  training  fruit-trees  to.  When  such  are  intended  for 
trees,  the  boarding  should  be  tongued  and  closely  joined,  edge  to 
edge,  so  as  to  form  a  plane  or  even  surface,  for  the  commodious 
training  the  branches. 

In  gardens  where  no  wallrtrees  are  intended,  a  hedge,  or  bank  and 
hedge,  is  a  very  proper  fence ;  which  may  be  so  trained,  as  to  form 
both  an  effectual  fence  against  men  and  beasts,  also  to  shelter  par- 
ticular parts  of  the  ground  for  raising  early  crops  :  a  hawthorn 
hedge  is  the  most  proper,  though  other  sorts  may  be  used. 

No  fencing,  however,  for  a  Kitchen-garden,  where  intended  to 
have  wall  trees,  especially  in  the  more  northerly  parts  of  the  Union, 
is  equal  to  brick  walls,  which  are  considerably  stronger,  warmer, 
and  more  durable  than  paling  fences  ;  and  their  natural  warmth, 
together  with  their  reflection  of  the  sun's  heat,  is  the  most  effectual 
for  the  growth,  and  ripening  of  the  latest  and  more  delicate  kinds  of 
fruit. 

Hot-walls  for  forcing  by  fire-heat,  &c.  are  often  erected  in  large 
Kitchen-gardens ;  for  an  account  of  which,  see  page  36. 

Preparing  and  hiding  out  the  Ground. 

The  whole  ground  should  be  regularly  trenched  two  spades 
deep;  observing  if  the  soil  is  poor,  or  of  bad  quality,  and  wants 
amendment,  either  of  dung,  or  any  of  the  materials  before  men- 
tioned, such  must  previously  be  added,  and  then  trench- 


104  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  [FEB. 

ed  in  betwixt  the  bottom  and  top  spits,  so  as  next  year,  when 
it  comes  to  be  digged  again,  the  compost  being  well  meliorated, 
will  be  worked  up,  and  mixed  with  the  natural  soil. 

Do  not  omit  enriching  and  improving  the  borders  for  the  wall  * 
and  espalier-trees,  by  adding  a  considerable  portion  of  rotten  dung  ; 
and  if  the  natural  soil  is  not  good,  add  also,  if  possible,  some  good 
loamy  earth  from  the  surface  of  a  field  or  pasture  common,  either 
-to  the  whole,  or  rather  than  fail,  a  few  barrow-fuls  at  first  to  each 
place  where  a  tree  is  to  stand,  and  improve  the  rest  afterwards 
by  degrees,  at  leisure. 

The  ground  must  be  divided  into  compartments  for  regularity 
and  convenience.  A  border  must  be  carried  round,  close  to  the 
boundary-walls  or  fences,  not  less  than  five,  but  if  six  or  eight 
feet  wide,  the  better,  both  for  raising  various  early  and  other  kitchen 
crops,  and  for  the  benefit  of  the  wall-trees,  if  any,  that  their  roots 
may  have  full  scope  to  run  in  search  of  nourishment ;  and  moreover, 
the  annual  digging  and  stiring  the  ground  for  the  culture  of  the 
herbaceous  esculents,  greatly  encourages  the  trees :  hence  the  uti- 
lity of  having  a  broad  border.  Next  to  this  border  a  walk  should  be 
continued  also  all  round  the  garden,  of  proper  width,  as  mentioned 
below;  then  proceed  to  divide  the  interior  parts  into  two,  four,  or 
more  principal  divisions  and  walks,  if  its  extent  be  large  ;  first,  if 
the  ground  is  of  some  considerable  width,  a  straight  walk  should  run 
directly  through  the  middle  of  the  garden ;  and  another,  if  thought 
necessary,  may  be  directed  across  the  ground,  intersecting  the  first ; 
and  if  the  garden  extends  any  considerable  length,  two  or  more  such 
cross  walks  may  be  necessary ;  the  width  of  the  walks  may  be  from 
about  five  to  ten  or  twelve  feet,  in  proportion  to  the  extent  of  the 
garden ;  and  each  of  the  quarters  should  be  surrounded  with  a  five  or 
six  feet  wide  border ;  and  a  range  of  espalier  fruit  trees  may  be 
planted  along  towards  the  back-part  of  each  border,  so  that  every 
quarter  will  be  inclosed  with  an  espalier ;  which  will  be  ornamental 
in  growth,  and  profitable  in  the  annual  production  of  superior  fruit 
of  different  kinds. 

I  would  not,  however,  by  any  means  advise  dividing  small  or 
moderate -si  zed  gardens  into  too  many  walks  and  small  quarters, 
especially  if  they  are  to  be  surrounded  by  espaliers,  which  would 
render  them  too  confined  for  the  proper  growth  of  culinary  herbage ; 
besides,  it  would  be  wasting  too  much  of  the  ground  in  walks. 

In  one  of  the  quarters  a  place  should  be  allotted  for  the  framing- 
ground  ;  that  is,  a  place  for  making  the  hot-beds  for  raising  early 
cucumbers,  melons,  and  other  tender  plants:  fixing  on  a  spot  for 
this  purpose,  full  to  the  sun  from  rising  to  setting,  sheltered  as 
much  as  possible  from  the  northerly  winds,  and  conveniently  situ- 
ated for  bringing  in  the  dung  for  the  hot-beds. 


*  Observe,  that  aU  trees  planted  against  and  trained  to  either  paling-  or 
board  fences,  &c.  producing  fruit  on  one  side  only,  are  denominated  \vall 
trees,  as  well  as  if  planted  to  actual  brick  or  stone  walls  ;  in  contradistinction 
to  espalier  trees,  which  produce  fruit  on  both  slcl-js. 


3TEB.]  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  105 

This  place,  if  not  so  situated  as  to  be  sheltered  by  the  walls,  or 
other  fences  of  the  garden,  it  will  be  of  much  advantage  to  inclose 
it  with  a  close  fence  of  some  kind,  serving  both  to  break  oifthe  winds, 
and  by  having  a  door  to  lock,  will  preserve  your  crops  more  secure ; 
these  fences  may  be  six  or  seven  feet  high  in  the  bark  or  north  side, 
with  both  the  side  fences  sloping  gradually  to  about  five  feet  height 
in  front ;  which  should  always  be  lowest  to  admit  the  sun  freely. 

With  regard  to  the  borders  and  walks  of  this  garden,  the  outer 
borders  adjoining  the  walks  should  be  neatly  formed,  the  edges 
made  firm  and  straight,  and  the  walk  gravelled,  or  laid  with  other 
dry  materials. 

The  edges  of  the  borders  in  small  gardens  are  frequently  plant- 
ed with  box,  Sec.  especially  in  gardens  where  the  Kitchen  and  plea- 
sure-ground are  all  in  one  ;  sometimes,  part  are  edged  with  un* 
dershrubby  aromatic  herbs,  as  thyme,  savory,  hyssop,  and  the 
like  ;  but  unless  these  are  kept  low  and  neat,  they  appear  unsight- 
ly ;  some,  however,  use  no  planted  edgings  at  all  in  Kitchen-gar- 
dens, only  have  the  edge  of  the  border  made  up  even,  treading  it 
firm  that  it  may  stand,  then  cut  it  straight  by  line  ;  sometimes  along 
the  top  of  this  edging  is  planted  a  row  of  strawberries,  a  foot  or  fif- 
teen inches  asunder  ;  they  will  bear  plentifully  and  have  a  good  ef- 
fect ;  observing  to  string  them  several  times  in  summer,  to  preserve 
them  neat  and  within  due  compass. 

Sometimes  grass-walks  are  used ;  but  these  are  rather  improper 
for  general  use  in  Kitchen-gardens,  especially  in  such  parts  of  the 
garden  where  wheel-barrows  are  obliged  to  come  often,  which 
would  cut  and  greatly  deface  them  ;  besides,  they  are  apt  to  be  wet 
and  disagreeable  in  all  wet  weather,  and  in  winter ;  but  if  any  are 
intended  for  summer's  walking,  they  should  be  only  in  some  dry 
part  of  the  garden  ;  and  never  let  them  be  general ;  for,  besides  the 
aforementioned  inconveniencies,  they  are  apt  to  harbour  slugs  and 
other  crawling  vermin,  to  the  detriment  of  the  adjacent  crops. 

The  espaliers  should  be  planted  in  one  range  round  each  main 
quarter,  about  four  to  five  or  six  feet  from  the  outer  edge  of  the 
border,  in  proportion  to  its  width,  and  from  about  fifteen  to  twenty 
feet  asunder,  according  to  the  sorts  of  fruit-trees  you  plant. 

Within  the  espaliers  in  the  quarters,  you  may  plant  some  stand- 
ard fruit-trees,  of  the  choicer  sorts,  at  fifty  feet  or  more  distance 
each  way,  especially  the  large-growing  standards,  that  they  may  not 
shade  the  ground  too  much. 

Likewise  in  the  quarters  may  be  planted  the  small  kinds  of  fruit- 
shrubs,  as  gooseberries,  currants,  and  raspberries,  in  cross  rows, 
so  as  to  divide  the  quarters  into  breaks  of  twenty  or  thirty  feet  wide, 
or  more  ;  others  in  a  single  range  along  near  the  outward  edges, 
or  some  in  continued  plantations  ;  placing  the  bushes  nine  feet 
asunder  in  each  row  ;  and  if  kept  somewhat  fan-spreading  the  way 
of  the  rows,  they  will  not  incumber  the  ground,  and  will  bear  very 
plentiful  crops  of  large  fruit ;  besides,  between  these  rows  you  can 
have  various  early  and  late  crops  of  vegetables. 

In  many  places,  however,  as  formerly  noticed,  there  is  but  a 
small  compass  of  ground,  or  so  limited  as  to  be  obliged  to  have  the 


106  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  [FEB, 

Kitchen,  fruit,  and  pleasure-gardens,  all  in  one,  or  at  least  often  all 
within  the  same  general  inclosure  ;  in  which  case,  if  any  distinct 
part  of  the  ground  is  required  for  ornament,  a  portion  of  it  next  the 
house  may  be  laid  out  in  a  lawn  or  grass-plat,  bounded  with  a  shrub- 
bery ;  beyond  which  have  the  Kitchen-ground,  separating  it  also 
from  the  other  with  shrubbery  compartments :  the  Kitchen-garden 
may  also  be  laid  out  with  ornamental  walks  and  borders,  having  a 
broad  border  all  round ;  and  next,this,  a  walk  from  five  or  six  to  eight 
feet  wide,  carried  all  round  the  garden,  in  proportion  to  its  size  ; 
and,  if  the  ground  is  of  some  considerable  width,  may  have  one  of 
similar  dimensions  extended  directly  through  the  middle  ;  and  next 
the  walks,  have  a  border  of  four  or  five,  to  six  or  seven  feet  wide, 
carried  round  the  quarters  or  principal  divisions  ;  which  border,  if 
raised  a  little  sloping  from  the  front  to  the  back  part,  will  appear 
better  than  if  quite  fiat ;  planting  a  range  of  espalier  fruit-trees 
along  towards  the  back  edge  of  the  border,  so  as  immediately  to 
surround  the  quarters,  allotting  the  outsides  of  the  borders  for  small 
esculents,  or  flowers,  and  small  flowering  shrubs,  having  the  edges 
planted  with  box,  &c.  or  some  with  strawberries  and  other  edg- 
ing-plants, and  the  walks  neatly  laid  with  gravel,  or  other  ma- 
terials before-mentioned  ;  the  inside,  within  the  espaliers,  to  be  the 
Kitchen-ground,  dividing  it,  if  thought  necessary,  by  rows  of 
gooseberry,  currant,  and  raspberry  plants. 

But  when  necessary  to  have  the  whole  space  of  the  kitchen-garden 
employed  for  real  use,  no  ground  should  be  lost  in  ornamental 
borders  and  walks :  have  a  border  all  round  the  boundary-fence, 
five  or  six  feet  wide,  except  the  south  borders,  which  should  be 
seven  or  eight  feet  broad,  because  of  their  great  use  for  raising 
early  crops ;  and  have  a  walk  round  the  garden,  not  more  than  a 
yard  to  five  or  six  feet  wide ;  allowing  the  same  width  for  the  mid- 
dle-walks, or  so  as  to  admit  of  wheel-barrows  passing  to  bring  in 
the  manure,  See.  and  may  either  have  a  four-feet  wide  border  all 
round  each  quarter,  next  the  walks,  or  not,  as  you  shall  think  pro- 
per; laying  the  walks  neatly  with  any  gravelly  materials,  or  with 
coal-ashes,  &c.  so  as  to  have  dry  walking,  and  wheeling  with  a 
barrow  in  all  weathers. 

General  Culture  of  the  Ground. 

With  respect  to  the  general  culture  of  the  Kitchen-garden. ...it 
consists  principally  in  a  general  annual  digging ;  proper  manuring  ; 
sowing  and  planting  the  crops  properly  ;  pricking  out,  planting,  and 
transplanting  various  particular  crops ;  keeping  the  ground  clean 
from  weeds  ;  and  watering  the  crops  occasionally  in  summer. 

As  to  digging.. ..a  general  digging  must  be  performed  annually  in 
winter  or  spring,  for  the  reception  of  the  principal  crops  ;  also  as 
often  as  any  new  crops  are  to  be  sown  or  planted  at  any  season  of 
the  year;  remarking,  that,  the  general  digging  for  the  reception  of 
the  main  crops  of  principal  esculents  in  spring,  I  should  advise  to 
be  performed  by  trenching  either  one  or  two  spades  deep,  be- 
sides the  paring  at  top ;  though,  except  for  some  deep-rooting 


FEB.]  THE  KITCHEN.GARDEN.  107 

plants,  as  carrots,  parsneps,  Sec.  one  good  spade  deep  may  be  suf- 
ficient for  common  trenching,  unless  on  particular  occasions,  to 
trench  as  deep  as  the  good  soil  admits,  to  turn  the  exhausted  earth 
to  the  bottom,  and  the  fresh  to  the  top  to  renew  the  soil.  However, 
you  should  be  careful  not  to  trench  deeper  than  the  proper  soil ;  and 
the  trenching  only  one  spade  deep,  will  much  more  effectually 
renew  the  soil  than  plain  digging ;  and  by  paring  the  top  of  each 
trenching,  two  or  three  inches  deep  into  the  bottom,  all  seeds  of 
weeds  on  the  surface  are  thereby  buried  so  deep,  that  they  cannot 
grow ;  and  I  should  likewise  advise  that  the  general  digging  be 
performed  principally,  especially  in  stiff  ground,  before  the  setting 
in  of  the  winter  frosts,  or  early  in  spring ;  but  it  would  be  better 
done  if,  some  considerable  time  before  the  season  for  putting  in  the 
crops,  that  the  ground  might  have  the  advantage  of  fallow,  to  melio- 
rate and  enrich  it ;  and  always  let  the  ground  be  trenched  in  rough 
ridges,  that  it  may  receive  all  possible  benefit  from  the  sun,  air, 
rains,  frost,  &c.  to  fertilise  and  pulverise  the  soil,  before  it  is  levelled 
down  for  the  reception  of  seeds  and  plants ;  and  this  levelling  down 
will  be  an  additional  improvement,  in  breaking,  dividing,  and  melio- 
rating the  earth.  Plain  digging,  however,  may  be  sufficient  for 
most  of  the  slight  crops,  especially  in  summer  or  autumn,  after 
the  ground  has  been  trench-digged  in  the  general  winter  or  spring 
digging, 

As  to  manure. ...any  kind  of  dung,  or  compost  of  dung  and  earth, 
js  proper ;  and  if  this  could  be  suited  to  the  nature  of  the  soil,  it 
would  be  of  greater  advantage,  that  is,  for  ground  of  a  strong, 
heavy,  cold  nature}  have  for  manure,  a  compost  of  well-rooted  dung, 
ashes,  or  any  sandy  earths ;  and  if  light  sandy  ground,  have  the 
moistest  sort  of  dung,  and  heavy  earths ;  though  any  kind  of  well- 
rooted  dung  will  suit  as  proper  manure  for  almost  every  soil,  but 
none  better  than  the  dung  of  old  hotrbeds,  which  is  the  most  com- 
mon manure  in  kitchen-gardens,  being  horse  stable-dung,  first 
used  in  hot-beds,  where  it  becomes  rotted  to  a  soft,  moist  tempe- 
rament, of  an  extremely  enriching  quality,  and  suits  almost  all 
kinds  of  soil  and  plants  ;  or  some  of  the  same  quality  from  dung- 
hills is  equally  eligible ;  but  well-rooted  neat'srrdung  is  also  very- 
good,  particularly  for  light  grounds  ;  or  a  compost  of  different  kinds, 
as  'horse-dung,  neatVdung,  hog's-dungs,  farm-yard  dung,  or  mulch, 
ashes,  lime-rubbish  broken  small,  sawdust,  rotten  tan,  having  all 
lain  together  till  well  rotted,  will  make  excellent  compost  manure. 

The  manuring,  or  dunging;  the  ground,  may  be  necessary  every 
year  or  two ;  for  all  crops  being  of  an  exhausting  nature  in  every 
soil,  the  vegetative  vigour  of  the  soils  must  be  supported  accord- 
ingly by  a  proper  application  of  manure  ;  but  once  every  two  or 
three  years,  at  furthest,  the  ground  in  general  will  want  amend- 
ment ;  though,  where  there  is  plenty  of  dung,  give  it  as  far  as  it 
will  go  every  year,  especially  for  the  principal  crops,  such  as  onions, 
cauliflowers,  cabbages,  Sec.  for  as  the  different  crops  exhaust  the 
soil,  the  addition  of  dung  fertilizes  and  renews  it ;  which,  when  duly 
applied  in  proper  quantities,  the  various  crops  will  not  only  be  much 
finer,  but  arrive  to  earlier  perfection  than  in  poor  starved  ground, 


108  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  [FEB. 

But  for  some  particular  crops,  ground  which  has  been  well  ma- 
nured the  year  before,  will  be  more  eligible,  than  if  immediately 
fresh  dunged  the  same  year  ;  such  as  for  some  of  the  long  fusiform- 
rooted  kinds,  as  carrots  and  parsneps,  Sec.  unless  the  dung  is  per- 
fectly rotted,  mellow  raid  mouldy,  that  these  long  roots  can  readily 
make  their  way  straight  through  in  their  perpendicular,  downward 
growth  ;  for  when  the  dung  manure  is  rank  or  lumpy,  it  is  very 
apt  to  impede  the  young  descending  radicle,  and  occasion  the 
main  root  to  fork  or  grow  crooked  ;  more  especially  the  carrots, 
which  also,  in  some  fresh-dunged  ground,  are  sometimes  apt  to 
canker. 

All  manuring  should  generally  be  performed  in  winterer  spring, 
to  be  dug  in  at  the  general  annual  digging  ;  taking  opportunity  of 
frosty,  or  very  dry  weather,  to  wheel  in  the  dung  for  the  principal 
manuring ;  as  it  may  then  be  performed  more  easy  and  clean  without 
clogging  or  spoiling  the  walks,  or  tearing  up  the  ground  ;  laying 
it  in  heaps  by  barrow-fulls  at  equal  distances ;  afterwards  spread  it 
evenly,  and  dig  it  in  one  spade  deep,  or  more. 

In  regard  to  cropping  the  ground,  the  proper  situation  for,  and 
method  of  raising  the  different  plants,  is  fully  explained  in  the  dif- 
ferent months  under  their  respective  heads  ;  I  will  therefore  only 
hint  here,  that  it  is  eligible  to  allot  the  driest,  warmest,  and  most 
sunny  situation,  for  the  early  crops,  and  the  other  parts  for  the  main 
crops. 

The  south  borders  are  proper  for  raising  the  earliest  plants,  as 
early  peas,  beans,  radishes,  spinach,  lettuce,  carrots,  small  sallad- 
lierbs,  kidney-beans,  &c.  the  east  and  west  borders  for  succession 
of  early  crops  ;  and  the  north  borders,  which  being  shady  and  cool, 
serve  for  raising  and  pricking  out  many  small  plants,  slips,  and 
cuttings  in  summer ;  though  all  these  borders,  in  every  exposure, 
may  be  made  useful  at  all  seasons.  The  borders  next  the  espaliers 
are  proper  for  crops  of  small  plants  at  all  seasons  of  the  year,  as 
lettuce,  endive,  spinach,  small  sallad-herbs,  strawberries,  and  seve- 
ral others,  both  to  stand,  and  for  transplantation,  according  to  the 
mode  of  culture  of  the  different  sorts  ;  and  by  keeping  all  the  bor-» 
ders  constantly  well  furnished  with  various  esculents,  disposed  ac- 
cording to  their  different  growths,  they,  besides  their  usefulness, 
effect  a  delightful  variety. 

In  the  internal  parts,  called  the  quarters,  should  always  be  raised 
the  larger  principal  crops,  such  as  cabbages,  cauliflowers,  broccoli, 
coleworts,  peas,  beans,  kidney-beans,  onions,  leeks,  carrots,  pars- 
neps, beets,  potatoes,  turneps,  artichokes,  celery,  general  crops  of 
lettuces,  spinach,  horse-radish,  &c. 

As  many  of  the  esculent  plants  succeed  best  in  rows,  such  as 
peas,  beans,  cauliflowers,  and  all  the  cabbage  kinds,  transplanted 
lettuces,  endive,  potatoes,  artichokes,  Jerusalem  artichokes,  celery, 
and  some  others,  particular  regard  is  requisite,  that  the  rows  are 
at  proper  distances  for  the  plants  to  have  full  scope  to  grow,  and 
would  advise  that  all  the  tall-growing  sorts,  sown  in  drills,  such  as 
peas,  beans,  kidney-beans,  &c.  for  early  crops,  have  their  rows 
ranging  north  and  south,  if  possible,  that  the  sun  may  shine  on 


FEB.]  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  109 

each  side  of  the  rows  more  effectually,  as  well  as  on  the  ground  be- 
tween the  rows ;  both  of  which  are  of  more  advantage  to  early  crops 
than  may  be  generally  imagined  ;  for  when  the  rows  range  east  and 
west,  one  row  shades  another,  so  that  when  the  plants  grow  up,  they 
cannot  all  receive  an  equal  benefit  of  the  sun. 

The  great  art  in  cropping  a  kitchen-garden,  is  to  make  the  most 
of  every  part  of  the  ground,  where  necessary ;  by  having  each  quarter 
well  occupied  with  as  many  crops  annually  as  possible  ;  as  practised 
by  the  experienced  market-gardeners  and  others,  who  have  occasion 
to  cultivate  the  whole  kitchen-ground  to  every  possible  advantage  ; 
often  having  two  or  three  different  crops  advancing  in  successive 
order  together  on  the  same  compartment,  especially  where  the  prin- 
cipal crops  are  in  wide  rows,  as  in  cauliflowers,  cabbages,  beans,  &c. 
Other  kinds  are  frequently  inter-cropped,  at  proper  periods,  with 
those  of  peculiar  growth  in  the  respective  sorts  ;  not  to  impede  each 
other,  nor  the  principal  crops  above  intimated.  Sometimes  slight 
crops  of  quick  growth  are  sown  to  come  off  soon,  or  by  the  time  the 
others  begin  to  advance  considerably ;  or  sometimes,  in  the  advanced 
state  of  the  main  crops,  they  are  inter-cropped  with  others  of  a  more 
continuing  and  larger  growth  to  be  coming  forward,  ready,  as  the 
others  are  going  off;  fully  occupying  the  same  spot  in  a  succession  of 
crops  in  some  advanced  growth,  whereby  both  time  and  ground  are 
occasionally  gained ;  though,  where  there  is  a  plentiful  scope  of 
kitchen-ground,  especially  in  private  gardens,  any  considerable 
inter-cropping  would  be  unnecessary,  as  generally  each  sort  raised 
separately,  will,  in  some  degree,  be  superior  :  however,  on  the  other 
hand,  as  in  many  places  the  Kitchen-ground  is  much  limited,  ii  is 
incumbent  on  the  occupier  or  cultivator,  to  intercrop  occasionally, 
where  it  can  be  done  with  a  good  prospect  of  success,  agreeably  to 
the  above  intimations.  With  regard  to  the  different  methods  of 
sowing,  and  planting  the  different  crops,  these  shall  be  designated 
in  the  course  of  the  work. 

Destroying  weeds  is  a  most  necessary  culture  in  the  Kitchen- 
garden,  which  must  be  very  particularly  attended  to ;  for  the  success 
of  the  crops  greatly  depends  thereon,  and  without  a  full  determina- 
tion to  keep  them  clean,  it  is  in  vain  to  sow  or  plant  any. 

The  utmost  attention  is  necessary  never  to  suffer  weeds  to  perfect 
their  seeds  in  any  part,  whether  in  cropped  or  vacant  quarters,  or  on 
dung-hills,  or  compost-heaps,  as  they  would  lay  the  foundation 
of  several  years  trouble  to  extirpate  them ;  for,  as  in  digging  and 
hoeing  the  ground,  some  of  the  seed  would  be  buried  near  the  sur- 
face, and  others  much  deeper,  at  every  time  of  stirring  the  earth,  a 
fresh  crop  of  weeds  would  arise  from  the  same  stock  of  seeds, 
which  verifies  the  saying,  "  one  years  seeding,  makes  seven  years 
weeding." 

Work  to  be  done  in  this  month. 

The  various  preparations  for  early  crops,  noticed  last  month  in 
page  1,  Sec.  I  would  again  recommend  to  your  particular  atten- 
tion, as  you  ought  to  «  take  time  by  the  forelock"  at  this  season. 


110  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  [FEB. 

and  have  as  much  as  possible  in  a  state  of  forwardness,  in  order  to 
ease  the  great  press  of  business,  which  will  naturally  come  on  next 
month. 

Cucumbers  and  Melons. 

Where  the  raising  of  early  cucumbers  and  melons  was  not  begun 
last  month,  it  may  now  be  commenced  the  beginning  or  middle  of 
this,  with  a  greater  prospect  of  success  ;  observing  exactly  the  same 
method  of  making  the  seed  hot-bed,  sowing  the  seed,  and  the  gene- 
ral management  of  the  bed  and  plants,  as  directed  under  the'head 
Cucumbers,  Sec.  in  the  Kitchen  garden  for  January. 

Ridging  out  early  Cucumbers  and  Melons. 

If  the  cucumber  and  melon  plants,  which  were  raised  last  month, 
or  the  beginning  of  this,  have  not  suffered  by  any  of  the  accidents  that 
are  attendant  on  them  at  this  season,  the  former  are  now,  and  the 
latter  will,  in  the  course  of  this  month,  be  arrived  to  a  proper  growth 
for  ridging  out  into  a  larger  hot-bed,  finally  to  remain. 

A  new  bed  or  beds,  for  one  or  more  large  frames,  should  there- 
fore be  prepared  in  due  time  for  the  reception  of  these  plants,  and 
made  in  the  same  manner  as  directed  in  January,  pages  4  and  5  ;  ob- 
serving, that  such  must  be  three  feet  and  a  half,  or  four  feet  high, 
\vhen  finished  ;  for  a  less  depth  of  dung  will  not  produce  the  neces- 
sary heat  which  these  plants  require  at  this  inclement  season  ;  and, 
besides,  if  the  beds  were  made  of  a  more  shallow  depth,  their  heat 
would  be  soon  spent,  and  lining  could  not  be  applied  to  them  with 
so  much  advantage  :  for  the  latter  reason  particularly,  they  must  be 
made  wholly  above  ground. 

The  bed  being  finished,  put  on  the  frame  or  frame  and  lights, 
which  will  defend  it  from  wet,  and  bring  up  the  heat  the  sooner  ; 
tilting  the  upper  ends  of  the  lights  a  little,  that  the  steam  may  pass 
off.  In  a  week  after  the  bed  is  made,  if  it  has  settled  unequally, 
take  off  the  frame,  and  make  the  bed  level ;  then  immediately  put  it 
on  again  for  good. 

After  this,  let  the  state  of  the  bed  be  daily  examined  with  good 
attention  ;  and  when  you  find  the  violent  heat  is  over,  lay  in  the 
earth  ;  but  be  sure  to  let  that  first  pass  away. 

The  earth  for  this  purpose  should  be  rich,  and  tolerably  dry  ;  for 
that  is  a  material  article  to  be  regarded  at  this  season.  The  earth 
proper  for  cucumbers  may  be  either  any  prepared  compost  of  rich 
loam  and  rotten  dung,  or  of  the  temperature  of  light  rich  kitchen- 
garden  soil ;  but  to  prepare  for  this,  you  ought,  about  the  latter  end 
of  Sept.  or  in  October,  (if  the  most  convenient)  to  take  from  some 
quarter  of  the  Kitchen-garden,  which  is  naturally  light  and  dry, 
and  well  enriched  by  manure,  a  sufficient  quantity  of  earth,  and 
throw  it  up  in  a  heap  ridge-ways,  in  some  dry  place,  open  to  the 
sun  and  air  ;  mixing  therewith  at  the  same  time  some  good  rotten 
dung,  breaking  and  blending  the  whole  well  together  :  a  due  quan- 
tity of  this  compost-heap  should  be  carried  into  some  shed,  or 
other  sheltered  place,  open  in  front  to  the  sun  or  free  air,  a  month 


FEB.]  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN. 

or  a  fortnight  at  least  before  you  want  it,  that  it  may  be  preserved 
perfectly  dry  for  earthing  the  bed. 

Then,  when  the  bed  is  in  order,  lay  about  half  a  bushel,  or  rather 
more,  of  earth,  under  the  middle  of  each  light,  rising  each  parcel  of 
earth  in  a  round  hillock  about  ten  inches  high ;  let  the  spaces 
between  the  hills,  and  quite  to  the  sides  of  the  frame,  be  covered 
with  the  same  sort  of  earth,  only  two  or  three  inches  thick  at  this 
time,  while  the  bed  is  in  strong  heat,  for  fear  of  burning,  as  explained 
below  ;  but  which,  when  the  heat  is  become  moderate,  is  by  degrees 
to  be  augmented,  till  raised  as  high  as  the  top  of  the  hills,  as  here- 
after directed. 

The  reason  for  laying  the  earth  in  little  hills,  and  not  earthing  the 
bed  fully  at  once,  is  by  way  of  precaution,  in  case  of  violent  after- 
heat,  in  which  case  it  will  more  readily  pass  off  in  steam,  between 
the  hills  ;  and  likewise,  because  we  may  venture  to  use  the  bed 
some  days  sooner  than  if  it  was  earthed  all  over  at  once  to  the  full 
thickness  ;  for,  if  the  bed  should  burn  after  the  plants  are  in,  you 
can  more  readily  prevent  the  earth,  and  also  the  roots  of  the  plants 
from  being  burnt  thereby,  by  drawing  the  earth  away  from  round 
the  bottom  of  the  hills,  if  it  burns,  and  supplying  the  places  with 
more  fresh  mould. 

As  soon  as  the  bed  is  earthed  as  above,  put  on  the  glasses  ;  and  by 
the  next  day,  the  hillocks  of  earth  will  be  warm  ;  if  they  are,  level 
the  top  of  each  a  little,  so  that  they  may  be  about  eight  or  nine 
inches  deep  ;  then  proceed  to  put  in  the  plants,  the  cucumbers  and 
melons  separately,  in  different  hot-beds,  or  distinct  frames,  Sec. 

Previous  to  this,  observe,  that  as  having  last  month  directed  the 
plants  to  be  pricked  into  small  pots,  three  in  each  separately ;  and 
as  they  are  now  to  be  turned  out  of  these  pots  with  the  balls  of  earth 
entire,  and  planted,  one  pot  of  plants  in  each  of  the  above  hills, 
I  would  intimate,  in  this  final  transplanting,  that  two  of  the 
best  cucumber  plants,  and  only  one  melon,  would  be  sufficient  to 
remain,  cutting  the  others  away  as  soon  after  planting  as  you  are 
able  to  distinguish  which  are  most  likely  to  do  well ;  however,  it  is 
advisable,  previously  to  transplanting,  that,  in  order  to  have  the 
whole  ball  of  earth  adhere  closely  about  the  roots,  to  give  the  pots 
some  water  the  day  before ;  and  the  method  of  planting  is  this  : 
having  some  pots  of  the  strongest  plants  ready,  place  your  hand  on 
the  surface  of  the  pot,  taking  the  stems  of  the  plants  carefully  be- 
tween your  fingers  ;  then  turn  the  mouth  of  the  pot  downwards, 
and  strike  the  edge  gently  on  the  frame  ;  the  plants,  with  the  ball 
of  earth  to  their  roots,  will  come  out  entire  ;  then  making  a  hole 
in  the  middle  of  each  hill  of  earth,  place  one  pot  of  plants,  with  the 
ball  entire,  in  each  hole,  closing  the  earth  well  round  it,  and 
about  an  inch  over  the  top,  bringing  the  earth  close  round  the  stems 
of  the  plants  ;  this  done,  shut  down  all  the  lights  close  for  the  pre- 
sent, till  the  steam  rises  again  strong  ;  then  they  must  be  tilted  a 
little  behind,  in  proportion,  to  give  it  vent. 

The  plants  being  ridged  out  finally  into  the  beds  where  they  are 
to  remain  for  fruiting,  you  must  be  careful  to  give  them  fresh  air 
every  day,  by  raking-  the  glasses  a  little  for  its  acftnission,  and  for 


112  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  [FEB, 

the  great  steam  to  pass  off;  and  it  is  necessary  to  cover  the  lights 
every  night  with  mats,  putting  them  on  about  half  an  hour  before  the 
time  of  sun-setting,  or  a  little  earlier  or  later  as  the  weather  happens 
to  be  either  mild  or  severe,  and  uncover  them  in  the  morning, 
as  soon  after  the  sun  begins  to  shine  on  them,  or  after  sun-rising  as 
the  state  of  the  weather  will  permit :  in  covering  up,  observe,  that 
•while  the  bed  is  very  hot,  and  the  st^am  copiously  rising,  never  to  let 
the  ends  of  the  mats  hang  down  over  the  dung  outside  of  the  frame, 
•which  would  draw  up  a  hurtful  steam,  and  stifle  the  plants. 

Air  must  be  admitted  to  them  every  day,  when  the  weather  is 
any  way  favourable,  by  raising  the  upper  ends  of  the  glasses  from 
about  half  an  inch  to  an  inch  or  two,  or  in  proportion  to  the  sharp- 
ness or  mildness  of  the  outward  air  and  internal  heat  and  steam  of 
the  bed. 

In  giving  the  plants  air,  it  is  a  good  method,  at  this  season, 
especially  in  severe  cutting  weather,  to  fasten  a  mat  across  the  ends 
of  the  lights,  where  titled,  to  hang  down  detachedly  over  the  place 
where  the  air  enters  the  frame  ;  the  mat  will  break  the  wind  and 
sharp  air  before  it  reaches  the  plants,  and  yet  there  will  be  a  due 
proportion  admitted,  without  exposing  them  directly  to  it ;  and 
there  will  also  be  full  liberty  to  let  the  steam  pass  off. 

Likewise,  in  covering  the  glasses  on  nights  with  mats,  if 
there  be  a  strong  heat  and  great  steam  in  the  bed,  let  the  lights  be 
raised  a  little  behind  when  you  cover  up  ;  let  them  remain  so  all  night, 
and  use  the  mats  as  above  mentioned,  to  hang  down  low  before  the 
place  where  the  glasses  are  raised,  but  this  must  be  done  with  cau- 
tion in  very  severe  frost. 

One  great  article  to  be  attended  to  now,  is  to  support  a  constant 
temperate  heat  in  the  hot-bed,  so  as  to  keep  the  plants  in  a  regular 
growing  state.  The  first  thing  to  be  observed  towards  this  is,  that 
in  six  or  eight  days  after  ridging  out  the  plants,  provided  the  heat 
of  the  bed  is  become  moderate,  it  will  be  very  proper  to  give  some 
outward  protection  of  dry,  long  litter,  waste  hay,  fern,  straw,  leaves 
of  trees,  Sec.  laying  it  close  round  the  sides  a  foot  thick,  and  as 
high  as  five  or  six  inches  up  the  sides  of  the  frame  ;  but  this  will 
be  particularly  serviceable  in  very  wet  weather,  but  more  especially, 
in  drivng  cold  rains,  or  snow,  and  also,  if  there  be  cold  piercing  winds, 
all  of  which  would  chill  the  bed,  and,  without  the  above  precaution, 
would  sometimes  occasion  such  a  sudden  and  great  decay  of  the 
heat,  as  to  prove  the  manifest  destruction  of  the  plants ;  whereas 
the  above  lining  will  defend  the  bed,  and  preserve  a  fine  heat  till 
the  dung  begins  naturally  to  decline  or  decay  of  itself,  which  is 
generally  in  about  three  weeks  or  a  month  after  the  bed  is  made, 
•when  the  warmth  of  it  must  be  renewed  by  adding  a  lining  of  fresh 
hot  clung  close  to  its  sides  and  ends. 

But  for  the  first  week  or  ten  days  after  the  plants  are  ridged  out 
into  this  hot-bed,  mind  that  their  roots  have  not  too  much  heat ;  for 
it  sometimes  happens  that  a  bed,  after  the  mould  and  plants  are  in, 
(the  earth  confining  the  heat  and  steam  below  in  the  dung,) 
will  begin  afresh  to  heat  so  violently,  as  to  be  in  danger  of  burning 
the  earth  at  the  bottom  of  the  hills:  and  with;»*:t  some  precaution 


FEB.]  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN, 

is  taken,  the  burning  will  soon  reach  the  roots  of  the  plants  ;  there- 
fore, for  the  first  week  or  ten  days,  let  the  bottom  of  these  hills  be 
at  times  examined,  by  drawing  away  a  little  of  the  earth  below ; 
and  if  any  burning  appears,  remove  the  burnt  earth,  replace  it  with 
new ;  and  by  drawing  some  away  quite  round,  let  the  hills  be  kept 
as  narrow  as  they  will  just  stand,  so  as  to  support  the  plants,  and 
let  them  remain  till  the  danger  of  burning  is  over ;  when  you 
may  replace  it  again* 

When  the  great  heat  abates,  or  the  roots  of  the  plants  begin  to  appear 
through  the  sides  of  the  hills,  then  add  some  fresh,  light,  rich  earth 
all  around  them  ;  about  three  days  after,  you  may  lay  some  more  ; 
and  in  two  or  three  days  after  that,  you  may  earth  the  bed  all  over, 
to  the  full  thickness.  But  before  you  lay  the  fresh  earth  to  the 
sides  of  the  hills,  let  it  be  first  laid  a  few  hours,  or  for  one  night,  in 
the  frame,  up  towards  the  sides,  that  it  may  acquire  an  equal 
degree  of  warmth  with  that  in  the  bed ;  then,  being  applied  as 
above,  it  will  not  be  in  danger  of  chilling  the  roots  of  the  plants. 

The  next  particular  care  is  that  of  lining  the  hot*bed  when  the 
heat  declines ;  therefore,  when  the  heat  of  the  bed  begins  to  decrease 
much,  let  a  lining  of  the  best  hot  dung  be  applied  in  due  time 
to  the  back  or  front  of  the  bed,  or  to  both,  if  the  heat  is 
very  much  declined.  The  dung  for  this  purpose  should  be  prepar- 
ed in  the  same  manner  as  that  for  making  the  bed.  Remember, 
that  if  there  was  a  lining  of  dry  litter  laid  round  the  sides  of  the 
bed,  to  defend  it  from  wet,  Sec.  as  before  directed,  this  must  first 
be  removed  before  you  apply  the  lining;  then  line  the  sides  of  the 
bed,  about  from  twelve  to  fifteen  or  eighteen  inches  wide,  according  as 
the  heat  is  less  or  more  declined,  which  should  be  raised  about  four  or 
five  inches  higher  than  the  dung  of  the  bed,  to  allow  for  settling  : 
lay  some  earth  on  the  top  of  the  lining,  to  keep  the  rank  steam  of 
the  fresh  dung  from  coming  up  that  way  ;  which,  if  it  did,  would  be 
apt  to  enter  the  frame,  at  the  place  where  the  lights  are  raised  to 
admit  air,  and  prove  of  bad  consequence  to  the  plants. 

Of  stopping  or  topping  the  above  Pltints., 

The  young  plants,  both  cucumbers  and  melons,  should  be  stopped 
or  topped,  if  not  done  before,  at  the  first  joint,  by  pruning  oft'  the 
top  of  the  first  runner-bud;  which  is  necessary  to  promote  a  stocky 
growth,  and  cause  them  to  put  forth  lateral  shoots  at  the  first  and 
second  joints,  to  form  fruitful  runners  ;  and  from  these,  others  of  the 
same  nature  will  be  produced. 

This  operation  should  be  performed  when  the  plants  have  two 
rough  leaves,  and  when  the  second  is  about  an  inch  broad,  having 
the  first  runner-bud  rising  at  its  base ;  the  sooner  this  is  detached, 
the  sooner  the  plants  acquire  strength,  and  put  out  fruitful  runners. 

It  is  to  be  done  in  the  following  manner  : 

You  will  see  arising,  in  the  centre  of  the  plant,  at  the  bottom  of 
the  second  rough-leaf,  the  end  of  the  first  runner,  like  a  small  bud  ; 
which  bud  or  runner,  being  the  advancing  top  of  the  plant,  is  now 
to  be  taken  off  close,  and  may  be  done  either  with  the  point  of  a 

Q 


114  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  [FEB. 

pen-knife  or  small  scissars,  or  pinched  off  carefully  with  the  finger 
and  thumb  ;  but  which  ever  way  you  take  it  off,  be  careful  not  to  go 
so  close  as  to  wound  the  joint  from  whence  it  proceeds. 

Having  thus  pruned  or  stopped  the  plants  at  the  first  joint,  they 
will  by  that  means  very  quickly  get  strength,  as  will  plainly  appear 
in  a  few  days  ;  and  in  about  a  week,  or  ten  or  twelve  days  after  being 
thus  treated,  will  each  begin  to  send  forth  two  or  three  runners  ; 
which  runners  will  probably  show  fruit  at  their  first,  second,  or 
third  joints  ;  for  if  the  main  or  first  runner  was  not  to  be  stopped 
as  above,  it  would  perhaps  run  half  a  yard  or  two  feet  in  length, 
without  putting  out  more  runners  to  fill  the  frame,  or  probably 
without  showing  a  single  fruit  i  for  it  is  upon  these  lateral  shoots 
or  runners,  produced  after  stopping  the  plants,  that  you  may  expect 
fruit  to  appear  in  any  tolerable  time  in  the  season  ;  but  let  it  be  also 
observed,  that  when  the  said  lateral  shoots  have  three  joints,  and 
that  if  any  of  them  do  not  then  show  fruit  at  either  of  these,  it 
will  be  proper  to  pinch  off  the  top  of  such  shoots  at  the  third 
joint ;  which  will  promote  their  putting  forth  a  supply  of  two  or 
three  new  shoots,  some  or  all  of  which  will  most  likely  be  fruitful ; 
and  after  this,  according  as  they  advance  in  growth,  train  the  run- 
ners along  in  regular  order,  cut  out  casual  very  weakly  vines,  and 
thin  others  where  very  irregularly  crowded  :  thus,  if  the  bed  is  well 
managed,  and  the  plants  are  forward,  those  of  the  cucumbers  will 
probably  produce  proper-sized  fruit  the  end  of  this  month,  or  be- 
ginning or  middle  of  next;  but  the  melons  not  so  soon  by  six  or 
eight  weeks See  next  month. 

Of  sowing  Cucumber  and  Melon  Seed. 

As  there  may  be  many  persons  who  did  not  begin  last  nronth  to 
sow  cucumbers  for  an  early  crop,  it- will  here  be  proper  to  take  no- 
tice, that  the  beginning,  middle,  or  any  time  of  this  month,  is  still 
a  good  time  to  begin  that  work,  making  a  hot-bed  for  sowing  the 
seed,  as  directed  in  January,  pages  4  and  5. 

Those  which  are  sown  early  in  this  month,  will,  with  good  ma- 
nagement, produce  fruit  in  the  end  of  March,  or  beginning  of 
April ;  and  those  sown  in  the  middle  or  latter  end  of  the  month 
will  have  fruit  the  end  of  April,  and  will  bear  plentifully  in  May. 

The  beginning  of  this  month  is  a  very  good  time  to  sow  melons 
for  a  full  crop  in  the  frames. 

The  seed  hot-bed  which  is  to  be  made  now,  either  for  cucumbers 
or  melons,  must  be  of  the  same  dimensions  ;  and  the  seeds  sown, 
and  plants  managed,  as  directed  last  month. 

But  observe,  that  to  be  well  supplied  with  cucumber  or  melon 
plants,  either  to  plant  in  new  beds,  or  to  have  a  reserve  in  case  of  ac- 
cidents happening  to  any  already  planted  out,  it  will  be  very  proper 
to  sow  some  seeds  at  three  different  times  this  month. 

These  may  be  sown  in  such  cucumber  hot-beds  as  are  already 
made  and  in  cultivation,  and  when  fit  to  prick  out,  plant  them  in 
small  pots,  as  directed  last  month,  which  may  be  plunged  in  the  back 
part  of  the  same  bed,  where  they  may  be  kept  till  wanted,  either 
for  new,  or  to  supply  any  deficiency  in  the  present  beds. 


FEB.]  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN. 


Forcing  Asparagus. 

Hot-beds  for  forcing  early  asparagus,  may  be  made  any  time  this 
month,  for  which  purpose  you  must  be  provided  with  proper  plants  ; 
these  are  previously  raised  in  the  natural  ground  from  seed,  as 
hereafter  directed,  which  being  transplanted  from  the  seed-bed  into 
others  duly  prepared  for  their  reception,  and  having  two  or  three 
years  growth  there,  they  then  are  of  the  proper  size  and  strength 
for  forcing.  But  observe,  that  in  those  parts  of  the  Union  where 
the  ground  is  subject  at  this  season  to  be  bound  up  by  frost,  pre- 
vious precaution  will  be  necessary,  in  order  to  secure  a  supply  of 
plants  when  wanted  for  this  purpose  ;  therefore,  before  the  setting 
in  of  the  severe  winter  frost,  cover  a  sufficient  number  in  the  beds 
wherein  they  are  growing,  with  as  much  dry  litter  or  leaves  of 
trees,  &c.  as  will  effectually  keep  the  ground  from  being  frozen,  so 
that  you  can  remove  it,  and  take  up  the  plants  conveniently  when 
wanted. 

Or  you  may,  on  the  approach  of  severe  frosts,  take  up  a  sufficient 
quantity  with  as  little  injury  to  the  roots  as  possible,  which  may  be 
planted  in  sand  or  dry  earth  in  a  warm  cellar,  in  the  same  man- 
ner as  directed  for  planting  them  in  the  frame,  covering  their 
crowns  about  an  inch,  observing  not  to  croud  the  plants  for  fear  of 
their  becoming  mouldy  ;  and  in  mild  weather  ventilate  the  cellar  as 
often  as  possible,  to  prevent  any  bad  effect  to  the  roots  from  stag- 
nant air  :  but  when  it  can  be  done,  it  will  be  much  better  to  take  up 
the  plants  out  of  their  beds  according  as  you  want  them. 

The  necessary  quantity  for  a  three-light  frame  is  from  three  to 
four  hundred  plants,  and  so  in  proportion  for  any  number  of  frames  ; 
the  plants  in  such  beds  ought  to  be  set  very  close,  in  order  that  by 
having  as  many  as  possible  in  each  frame,  they  may  produce  a  pro- 
portionable supply,  to  recompence  sufficiently  for  the  trouble  and 
expense  of  forcing  them. 

A  bed  for  this  purpose  is  to  be  made  in  like  manner  as  those  di- 
rected for  cucumbers  in  pages  4  and  5,  but  very  substantial ;  then 
put  on  the  frame,  and  earth  it  all  over  six  or  seven  inches  deep,  for 
the  immediate  reception  of  the  plants. 

The  bed  being  made  and  earthed  as  above,  and  a  sufficient  quantity 
of  plants  in  readiness,  proceed  to  planting  by  raising  at  one  end  a 
small  ridge  of  earth  about  three  or  four  inches  high,  against  which 
place  a  row  of  plants  close  to  one  another,  drawing  some  earth  to 
the  bottom  of  the  roots ;  then  place  others  against  these  in  the 
same  manner,  and  so  continue  till  the  frame  is  full ;  all  having  their 
tops  or  crowns  upright,  and  of  an  equal  level.  When  the  whole 
bed  is  thus  planted,  cover  the  crowns  of  the  roots  all  over  with  light 
rich  earth,  about  two  inches  deep,  which  concludes  the  work  for  the 
present. 

You  may  now  put  on  the  lights,  which  are  to  be  kept  open,  rais- 
ed high  behind,  or  slided  down  every  day,  except  in  very  severe 
weather,  but  at  night  let  them  be  closed  :  give  all  the  air  possible  so 
that  you  do  not  suffer  the  earth  in  the  bed  to  be  frozen  or  chilled, by 


116  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  [FEB. 

rain  or  snow,  till  the  buds  begin  to  appear ;  when  you  are  to  give 
them  another  covering  of  three  or  four  inches  of  the  same  kind  of 
mould  as  before,  so  that  the  crowns  may  be  covered  in  the  whole 
about  six  inches  deep. 

But  it  must  be  remarked,  that  for  the  first  week  or  fortnight 
after  the  bed  is  made,  and  the  asparagus  planted,  that  the  state  of 
its  warmth  should  be  every  day  carefully  examined,  for  that  pur- 
pose, thrust  two  or  three  sharp  pointed  sticks  down  betwixt 
the  roots  into  the  dung,  in  different  parts  of  the  bed  ;  when  upon 
drawing  up  the  sticks,  once  or  twice  a  day,  and  feeling  the  lower 
ends,  you  can  readily  judge  of  the  degree  of  heat ;  which  if  found 
very  violent,  threatening  to  burn  the  earth  and  scorch  the  roots  of 
the  plants,  it  must  be  moderated,  by  boring,  with  a  long  thick 
stake,  several  wide  holes  in  the  dung,  on  each  side  of  the  bed,  also 
in  the  earth  just  under  the  roots,  to  admit  the  air,  and  to  let  the  rank 
steam  and  burning  quality  of  the  dung-  pass  off  more  freely  ;  but, 
when  the  heat  is  become  moderate,  the  holes  must  be  closed  again. 

Likewise  observe,  when  the  heat  is  on  the  decline,  it  will  be  very 
proper  to  lay  a  quantity  of  dry  long  litter  round  the  sides  of  the 
bed,  which  will  preserve  a  fine  kindly  growing  heat,  and  will  defend 
the  bed  from  being  chilled  by  heavy  rains,  snow,  &c. 

In  the  next  place  when  you  find  the  heat  of  the  bed  beginning  to 
decline  considerably,  you  should  prepare  to  renew  it  as  soon  as  pos- 
sible :  which  is  to  be  done  by  applying  a  lining  of  hot  dung  to  the 
sides  as  for  cucumber  and  melon  beds. 

Fresh  air  must  be  admitted  in  fine  weather  daily,  especially  if  the 
heat  of  the  bed  is  strong  when  the  buds  begin  to  appear  through 
this  last  covering  of  earth ;  for  fresh  air  is  necessary  both  to  give 
thorn  colour,  and  prevent  their  drawing  up  too  fast  and  weak :  there- 
fore in  fine  sunny  days,  either  tilt  the  upper  ends  of  the  lights  an 
inch  or  two,  or  shove  them  a  little  down,  as  may  be  convenient ; 
but  keep  them  close  in  cold  or  very  bad  weather,  and  always  on 
nights. 

Continue  to  cover  the  glasses  every  night  especially  after  the 
plants  appear,  with  mats  or  straw. 

The  bed,  if  made  and  managed  as  above  directed,  will  begin  to 
produce  asparagus  abundantly  in  four  or  five  weeks ;  and,  provided 
the  heat  be  kept  up,  will  continue  producing  buds  in  great  plenty 
for  about  three  weeks. 

The  method  of  gathering  the  asparagfis  in  hot-beds  is  to  thrust 
your  finger  down  gently  into  the  earth,  and  break  the  buds  off  close 
to  the  roots;  but  the  cutting  them  with  the  knife,  as  practised'in 
the  natural  ground,  would,  by  reason  of  the  buds  coming  up  so  very 
thick,  destroy  as  many  or  more  than  you  gather. 

When  it  is  intended  to  have  a  constant  supply  of  asparagus  in 
the  winter  and  spring  seasons,  till  that  in  the  natural  ground  comes 
in,  you  should  make  a  ne\v  hot-bed  every  three  weeks  or  a  month. 

A  quantity  of  fresh  plants  must  also  be  procured  for  every  new 
bed ;  for  those  which  have  been  forced  in  a  hot-bed,  are  not  fit  for 
any  use  aftenvards,  either  in  the  natural  ground,  or  elsewhere. 


FEB.]  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN. 

When  designed  to  raise  asparagus  plants  for  forcing,  you  should 
sow  some  seed  every  year,  in  a  bed  of  rich  earth,  as  directed  in. 
March  ;  observing,  when  the  plants  are  one  year  old,  to  transplant 
them  into  an  open  compartment,  in  rows,  nine  inches  asunder,  and 
about  the  same  distance  in  the  rows.  When  they  have  two  or 
three  summers'  growth,  they  are  then  fit  to  take  up  for  forcing ; 
but  if  they  stand  three  years  before  you  take  them  up,  they  will 
produce  much  larger  buds. 

It  is  necessary  to  have  three  different  pieces  of  ground  always 
employed  at  the  same  time  with  asparagus  plants  for  the  above 
purpose  :  that  is,  one  for  the  seed-bed  with  seedling  plants,  which 
should  never  stand  longer  than  one  year  before  transplanted  ;  the 
other  two  pieces  to  be  occupied  with  transplanted  plants ;  one  to  be 
a  year's  growth  from  the  time  of  planting,  before  the  other ;  by 
which  method  of  sowing  a  quantity  of  plants  every  spring,  you  will, 
after  the  first  three  years,  obtain  a  fresh  supply  of  proper  plants 
every  year,  of  eligible  age  and  growth,  as  above,  for  forcing. 

In  those  states  where  there  is  not  severe  frost  to  be  encountered 
at  this  season,  asparagus  may  be  forced  as  directed  above,  without 
the  assistance  of  a.  frame  and  lights ;  but  in  lieu  thereof,  you  must 
arch  the  bed  over  with  hoops  ;  and  protect  it  from  heavy  rains  and 
cold,  with  bass  mats  or  other  convenient  covering,  laid  over  these 
hoops ;  and  the  earth  on  the  beds  must  be  confined,  either  with  a 
shallow  frame  or  with  straw-bands  or  ropes,  three  or  four  inches  in 
diameter ;  fixed  down  neatly  along  the  edge  of  the  bed,  with  sharp- 
pointed  wooden  pegs. 

Mushrooms. 

Take  care  that  the  mushroom-beds  are  still  well  defended  from 
heavy  rains  and  frost ;  both  of  which  would  destroy  the  spawn. 

The  covering  of  straw  should  not  be  less  than  fourteen  or  six- 
teen inches  thick  on  every  part  of  t'*e  bed ;  and  at  this  season,  it 
would  be  proper  to  continue  some  large  garden  mats,  spread  over 
the  straw  covering,  to  secure  the  bed  more  effectually  from  wet  and 
cold ;  and  observing,  that  if  the  wet  at  any  time  has  penetrated 
quite  through  any  part  of  the  covering,  the  wet  straw  should  be  re- 
ed, and  replaced  with  some  that  is  clean  and  dry. 

If  these  beds  are  made  under  open  sheds  constructed  for  that 
purpose,  it  will  be  a  great  advantage,  particularly  in  protecting 
them  from  too  much  wet,  which  is  very  injurious  to  them,  especi- 
ally during  the  winter  season. 

New  mushroom-beds  may  now  be  made  where  wanted  ;  for  the 
particular  method,  see  October. 

Kidney  Scans. 

Where  early  kidney-beans  are  wanted,  you  may  in  the  begin- 
ning, or  any  time  this  month,  make  a  hot-bed  for  raising  them  ;  let 
this  be  made,  as  directed  for  cucumbers,  to  the  height  of  three  feet, 
and  long  enough  for  one  or  more  frames,  which,  with  their  glasses, 


THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  [FEB. 

put  on  immediately  ;  when  the  heat  is  come  up,  level  the  bed,  and 
cover  the  dung  seven  or  eight  inches  deep  with  rich  light  earth  ; 
then  draw  drills  from  the  back  to  the  front  a  foot  asunder,  and  an 
inch  deep;  drop  the  beans  therein  two  or  three  inches  apart,  and 
-smooth  over  the  surface  of  the  bed. 

Or  you  may  sow  the  beans  thick  in  a  small  hot-bed,  or  in  pots 
therein,  to  raise  the  plants  about  an  inch  in  growth,  then  transplant 
them  into  a  large  hot-bed  as  above,  to  yield  their  produce 

The  best  sorts  for  this  purpose,  are  the  early  cream-coloured 
dwarfs,  early  speckled,  white  and  yellow  dwarfs  ;  because  these 
kinds  are  of  an  early  nature,  and  do  not  run  so  strong  or  rampant 
as  the  other  sorts. 

When  the  plants  begin  to  appear,  raise  the  lights  a  little  behind, 
every  mild  day,  to  admit  fresh  air  to  strengthen  their  growth  ;  give 
also  occasional  gentle  waterings,  continue  the  same  care  in 
their  advancing  state,  and  support  a  proper  heat  in  the  bed :  they 
will  thus  afford  an  early  produce  in  April,  &c. 

But  where  there  is  a  hot-house,  you  may  raise  early  kidney  or 
French  beans,  generally  with  much  less  trouble  and  more  certain* 
success,  than  in  hot-beds,  as  above. 

Small  Sallading. 

Continue  to  raise  in  hot-beds  a  regular  supply  of  small  sallading, 
such  as  cresses,  mustard,  rape,  radishes,  lettuce,  &c.  as  directed  in 
January ?  pages  1 1  and  12,  which  must  be  sown  every  eight  or  ten 
days,  in  order  to  afford  a  proper  succession  ;  for  at  this  season  such 
are  more  acceptable,  and  to  many  persons  more  palatable,  than  at 
any  other  period  of  the  year. 

Towards  the  latter  end  of  the  month,  in  the  middle  states,  and 
in  all  parts  to  the  southward,  you  may  begin  to  sow  lettuce  and  the 
other  different  kinds  of  small  sallading  on  warm  well  sheltered 
south  borders,  especially  »i  the  great  winter  frosts  have  passed 
away. 

For  this  purpose  dig  the  ground  neatly,  giving  it  an  advantageous 
slope  towards  the  sun,  rake  the  surface  fine,  and  draw  shallow 
drills  from  north  to  south  about  three  or  four  inches  distant,  sow 
the  seeds  therein,  each  sort  separate,  very  thick,  and  earth  them 
over  not  more  than  a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep.  If  the  season  proves 
favourable,  you  may  expect  tolerable  success  ;  but  the  more  certain 
way  would  be  to  cover  these  beds  with  frames  and  glasses,  which 
would  not  only  forward  them  to  perfection  at  an  earlier  period,  but 
also  protect  them  from  the  various  accidents  incident  to  such  early 
crops  in  unfavourable  seasons. 

When  these  plants  both  under  cover  and  in  the  open  ground, 
begin  to  come  up,  they  sometimes,  by  rising  very  thick,  raise  the 
earth  in  a  kind  of  cake  upon  their  tops,  which  consequently  retards 
their  growth  ;  they  may  be  assisted  by  whisking  the  surface  lightly 
•with  your  hand,  Sec.  to  separate  the  earth ;  after  which,  the  plants 
\vill  rise  regularly. 


FEB.]  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN". 

When  those  coming  up  in  the  open  ground,  happen  to  be  at* 
tacked  with  morning  hoar-frosts,  and  likely  to  be  a  sunny  mild  clay, 
if  before  the  sun  rises  full  upon  them,  you  water  them  with  fresh 
pump  or  well  water  poured  out  of  a  watering-pot,  with  the  head  on,  to 
wash  off  the  frosty  rime,  it  will  prevent  their  changing  black  and 
going  off. 

Cauliflower  Plants, 

Continue  to  take  particular  care  of  your  early  cauliflower  plants, 
as  directed  in  January,  page  12,  which  see.  Those  early  autumnal 
sown  plants,  which  you  have  in  frames,  and  that  you  are  endea- 
vouring to  protect  with  a  covering  of  boards  and  mats,  &c.  without 
the  assistance  of  glass,  should  never  have  powerful  sun-shine  ad- 
mitted to  them  while  in  a  frozen  state ;  for  its  sudden  action  upon 
these  tender  plants,  whilst  in  that  condition,  would  prove  their  total 
destruction  ;  therefore  admit  it  only  at  intervals,  when  weak,  until 
the  plants  and  ground  round  them  are  completely  thawed. 

The  cauliflower  plants  which  were  raised  from  seed  sown  last 
month,  should  as  soon  in  this,  as  they  may  arrive  at  a  sufficient 
size,  which  is  about  four  or  five  inches,  be  transplanted  into  a  new 
moderate  hot-bed,  which  will  greatly  strenghten  and  forward  their 
growth. 

Make  the  bed  two  feet  and  a  half  high,  arid  put  a  frame  on,  lay  on 
six  inches  deep  of  rich  earth,  when  this  is  warm,  prick  the  plants 
therein  two  or  three  inches  apart,  and  give  them  a  little  water ;  as 
soon  as  they  have  taken  root,  give  them  plenty  of  air ;  and  in  mild 
warm  days,  take  the  glasses  totally  off,  but  let  them  be  carefully 
covered  every  night,  and  the  glasses  only  raised  a  little  behind  in 
cold  weather. 

Plants  thus  treated  will  become  strong  and  well  rooted,  bear 
transplanting  much  better  than  if  left  in  the  seed-bed,  and  produce 
larger  and  better  heads  ;  for  by  transplanting,  the  tap-roots  are 
checked,  and  the  plants  push  a  number  of  lateral  roots,  which  afford 
them  nourishment  and  strength  ;  they  become  short-stemmed  and 
stout,  and  consequently  more  fit  for  a  final  and  successful  tranplan- 
tation  than  if  suffered  to  remain  in  the  seed-bed. 

Were  these  to  be  transplanted  again  early  in  March,  into  another 
bed,  it  would  be  aa  additional  advantage ;  it  is  by  the  neglect  of  this 
necessary  treatment,  that  we  have  so  few  good  flowers,  for  the  plants 
when  continued  in  the  seed-bed  till  finally  transplanted,  become 
long  and  spindling,  tender  and  unfurnished  with  roots  or  fibres ; 
when  planted  out,  for  want  of  a  sufficiency  of  roots,  they  are  not 
able  immediately  to  extract  the  necessary  supply  of  nourishment 
from  the  earth,  consequently  become  stunted,  and  either  button,  or 
grow  so  miserably,  as  never  to  produce  a  good  head. 

When  transplanted  and  furnished  as  above,  and  that  the  proper 
season  arrives  for  planting  them  out  in  the  open  ground,  they  are 
to  be  taken  up  separately,  with  a  hollow  trowel  or  transplanter, 
preserving  as  much  earth  as  possible  about  the  roots  of  each  plant, 
and  deposited  where  they  are  to  flower ;  thus  treated  they  will 
scarcely  be  sensible  of  the  removal,  will  continue  in  a  constant  and 


120  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [*EB. 

regular  state  of  vegetation,  and  if  protected  for  a  few  days,  with 
garden  pots  or  other  suitable  coverings,  from  too  powerful  a  sun, 
and  regularly  at  night  for  ten  or  twelve  days  after  planting,  you 
may  reasonably  expect  the  desired  success. 

As  it  is  from  these  early  sowings  that  the  greatest  success  may 
be  expected,  in  the  United  States ;  every  care  should  be  taken  to  pro- 
mote their  early  growth  and  strength,  in  order  that  they  may  arrive 
at  due  perfection  before  the  commencement  of  the  severe  summer 
heat,  which  is  found  so  injurious  to  all  late  cauliflowers. 

Continue  to  give  a  due  quantity  of  air  to  your  cauliilower  plants, 
at  all  favourable  opportunities  ;  for,  as  observed  in  Januai*y^  it  is  an 
extremely  essential  article. 

Sowing  Cauliflower  Seed. 

Sow  some  cauliflower  seed  in  a  hot-bed,  the  beginning,  middle, 
or  at  any  time  this  month,  but  the  earlier  the  better,  to  succeed 
those  sown  in  January,  or  in  case  none  were  sown  at  that  time  ;  for 
the  method  of  doing  which,  see  page  12. 

If  you  have  not  tiie  convenience  of  glass  lights,  these  plants  may 
be  raised  with  good  success  in  Paficr  Frames,  or  with  particular  at- 
tention, you  may  succeed  with  coverings  of  mats,  or  boards  and 
mats. 

Pafier  Frames. 

These  frames  are  made  either  like  the  cover  of  a  waggon  or  the 
roof  of  a  house,  and  covered  with  oiled-paper  instead  of  glass.  They 
have  a  frame  of  wood  at  the  base,  to  which  in  the  former,  broad 
hoops  are  fastened  bent  over  circularly.  The  width  of  the  frame 
should  be  near  five  feet,  the  length  nine  or  ten  ;  the  distance  between 
the  hoops,  not  more  than  a  foot,  and  there  should  be  several  rows 
of  strong  pack  thread  or  rope  yarn,  running  from  hoop  to  hoop,  all 
over,  distant  from  each  other  about  eight  inches  and  other  lines 
crossing  and  interesting  these,  between  the  hoops  or  ribs  of  the 
frame,  which  arrangements  of  lines  are  of  essential  service,  for  the 
more  effectual  support  of  the  paper  when  pasted  on  the  frame,  and 
to  strengthen  it  against  the  power  of  winds  and  heavy  rains. 

The  other  sort  of  frame  may  be  made  with  slips  of  pine  or  neat 
laths,  fastened  to  a  roof-tree  at  the  top,  and  to  the  base-frame  at 
bottom.  The  pannels  or  lights  ought  to  have  hinges  alternately  at 
each  side,  to  open  outward  for  giving  air  occasionally,  on  the  side 
from  the  wind,  or  on  both  sides  if  the  weather  is  mild,  and  also  for 
performing  other  necessary  culture. 

The  paper  for  this  purpose  should  be  of  the  larger  strong  print- 
ing or  demy  kind ;  which  previously  to  pasting  on  the  frame,  should 
be  moderately  damped  with  water,  that  it  may  not  sink  in  hollows 
after  being  fixed ;  as  soon  as  thus  prepared,  proceed  to  paste  it  on 
sheet  by  sheet,  using  for  this  purpose  the  very  best  kind  of  paste  ; 
and  contrive  to  have  whole  ones,  along  the  ridge-rail  above,  extend- 
ing lengthways  and  a  cross,  to  join  regularly  with  the  sheets  below; 
pasting  the  whole  in  the  most  regular  and  secure  manner,  to  the 


FEB.]  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  J21 

ihimes,  ribs,  and  packed  thread,  and  if,  at  the  intersections  of  the 
latter,  a  small  square  OP  round  bit  of  the  same  paper,  is  pasted 
on  the  inside  and  to  the  large  sheets  over  those  parts,  it  will  give 
additional  strength  against  rain  and  winds. 

After  the  paper  is  thus  pasted  on,  and  perfectly  dry,  then  it 
must  be  oiled  over  with  linseed  oil,  either  raw  or  boiled :  the  latter 
I  think  is  rather  apt  to  harden  the  paper,  and  cause  it  to  crack, 
therefore  would  prefer  the  former.  Having,  however,  the  oil  and 
a  soft  painters  brush,  lay  it  on  lightly,  and  brush  the  outside  of  the 
paper  all  over,  equally  in  every  part ;  which  done,  place  the  frame 
in  some  dry  covered  shed,  there  to  remain  till  the  whole  is  tho- 
roughly dry,  then  it  may  be  used  when  wanted,  and  will  answer 
extremely  well  for  various  purposes. 

If  the  base-frames  are  well  painted  with  the  following  composi- 
tion, they  will  last  a  long  time. ...To  every  six  pounds  of  melted 
pitch,  add  half  a  pint  of  linseed  oil,  and  a  pound  of  brick  dust  well 
pulverized,  mix  them  well  together  and  use  them  warm.  This  is 
the  best  pigment  for  all  timber  exposed  to  the  weather,  for  no  mois- 
ture can  penetrate  through  it. 

You  may  also,  form  lights  of  the  above  kind,  for  your  common 
hot-bed  frames,  when  glass  cannot  be  conveniently  had,  which  will 
answer  a  very  good  purpose. 

These  covers  of  oiled-paper,  are  used  not  only  for  early  cauli- 
flower and  cabbage  plants,  but  also  for  early  sallading,  cucumbers, 
&c.  and  are  excellent  for  covering  cuttings  of  exotic  and  other 
plants,  and  for  various  other  purposes. 

Cabbage  Plants. 

Continue  to  protect  your  autumn-sown  cabbage  plants,  from  the 
severity  of  the  weather,  agreeably  to  the  general  precautionary  di- 
rections given  in  the  month  of  October,  which  see.  But  be  very  par- 
ticular that  such  as  are  in  frames,  and  consequently  under  occa- 
sional protection,  which  renders  them  still  more  tender  than  those 
protected  under  the  shade  of  bows,  &c.and  that  have  got  frozen,  either 
in  consequence  of  neglect  in  covering,  or  of  the  extreme  severity 
of  the  weather,  are  not  to  be  exposed  to  the  influence  of  the  sun 
whilst  shining  strongly,  until  they  are  gradually  thawed,  and  also 
the  earth  in  which  they  stand  ;  but  at  intervals,  when  the  rays  are 
not  too  powerful,  you  may  admit  them  to  the  plants,  in  order  to 
accomplish  this  end  the  sooner;  bat  it  must  be  done  with  great  pre- 
caution. This  observation  is  not  only  applicable  to  cabbage  and 
cauliflower  plants,  but  to  all  other  plants  under  similar  circum- 
stances. 

The  cabbage  plants  which  were  sown  last  month,  should  as  soon 
in  this,  as  they  have  arrived  to  the  height  of  three  or  four  inches, 
or  their  leaves  to  the  size  of  a  quarter-dollar,  be  transplanted  into 
a  new  hot-bed,  at  the  distance  of  three  or  four  inches,  plant  from 
plant  every  way  ;  in  order  to  promote  their  growth,  give  them 
strength,  and  the  better  to  prepare  them  for  planting  out  in  the  open 
ground,  as  soon  as  the  season  arrives  for  that  purpose. 

R 


122  1'HE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  [FED 

Previous  to  transplanting  either  these  or  cauliflower  plants,  see 
that  the  earth  of  the  new  bed  is  arrived  at  a  proper  degree  of 
warmth*  so  that  the  plants,  when  planted  therein,  may  receive  no 
check,  but  strike  out  new  roots  and  fibres  immediately.  Let  them 
be  constantly  kept  in  a  moderate  state  of  growth,  admitting  plenty 
of  air  to  them  at  every  favourable  opportunity;  for,  if  neglected  in 
this  very  essential  point,  they  will  grow  weakly  and  slender,  and 
never  turn  out  to  good  advantage  :  therefore,  let  air  be  given  as 
often  as  it  can  be  done  with  safety,  but  cover  them  carefully  every 
night,  and  even  in  the  day  time,  in  extremely  severe  weather. 

Solving  Cabbage  Seed. 

This  is  a  good  time  to  sow  a  full  crop  of  cabbage  seeds,  such  as 
the  early  Smyrna,  early  York,  early  dwarf  Battersea,  early  Sugar- 
loaf,  &c.  these  may  be  sown  in  a  hot-bed,  as  directed  for  cauliflow- 
ers, any  time  this  month,  but  the  earlier  the  better ;  especially,  if 
none  were  sown  in  January  :  these  will  come  to  perfection  at  an 
early,  and  very  acceptable  time. 

Towards  the  latter  end  of  the  month,  you  may  sow  these  kinds 
on  a  warm  south  border,  to  be  covered  with  frames  and  glasses,  or 
on  slight  hot-beds  made  in  warm  situations,  and  covered  with  paper- 
frames,  or  with  boards  and  mats  occasionally. 

Oiled-paper  covers  will  do  extremely  well  for  this  purpose,  and 
may  be  used  to  much  advantage  where  glass  lights  cannot  be  had. 

Sow  also  some  red  pickling-cabbage,  Flat-Dutch,  Large  Drum- 
head, Savoy,  and  other  late  cabbage  seeds,  to  succeed  your  early 
summer  crops ;  these  will  produce  larger  heads  and  earlier,  than  if 
sown  much  later.  Many  people  never  think  of  sowing  these  late 
kinds  at  this  time,  which  is  an  egregious  omission,  and  ought  not 
to  be  copied  by  any  person  who  wishes  to  have  a  regular  succession, 
and  in  the  greatest  perfection,  of  this  invaluable  vegetable. 

The  method  of  sowing  these  seeds.,  in  hot-beds,  being  so  similar 
to  that  of  cauliflowers,  that  a  repetition  is  unnecessary  ;  therefore 
refer  you  to  pages  12  and  13.  Always  observe  to  give  the  plants 
plenty  of  air,  in  order  to  harden  and  strengthen  them,  and  to  pre- 
vent their  spendiing  up  in  a  weakly  manner,  more  especially  if  you 
do  not  intend  to  transplant  them  into  another  hot-bed,  before  their 
being  finally  planted  in  the  open  ground. 

But  notwithstanding  all  this  precaution,  you  must  not  omit  to 
keep  them  constantly  in  a  growing  state,  and  duly  protected  from 
the  inclemencies  of  the  weather ;  and  when  the  beds  wherein  they 
are  growing,  become  cold  and  destitute  of  that  warmth  so  necessary 
for  the  above  purpose,  you  must  give  them  a  slight  lining  of  fresh 
horse-dung,  to  renew  the  slow  temperate  heat  so  congenial  and  ne- 
cessary to  these  plants  at  this  season. 

Sowing  Celery. 

Towards  the  end  of  this  month  if  the  weather  permits,  prepare  a 
small  bed  of  light  rich  earth  in  a  tvann  border,  to  sow  some  celery 


FEB.]  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  123 

seed  therein,  for  an  early  crop  ;  the  best  kinds  to  sow  are  the  solid, 
and  red  celery,  both  of  which  are  excellent. 

Break  the  earth  very  fine,  and  either  sow  the  seed  on  the  surface, 
and  rake  it  in  lightly ;  or  rake  the  surface  smooth,  sow  the  seed 
thereon,  and  cover  it  with  light  earth,  sifted  over  near  a  quarter  of 
an  inch  deep  ;  or  the  ground  being  formed  into  a  three  or  four  feet 
wide  bed,  and  the  surface  raked,  then  with  the  back  of  the  rake  trim 
the  earth  evenly  off  the  surface  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep  into 
the  alley  ;  sow  the  seed  on  the  bed,  and  with  a  spade  cast  the  earth 
over  it  evenly,  and  rake  the  surface  smooth. 

Though  this  seed  may  not  come  up  for  a  length  of  time,  there 
will  be  no  danger  of  its  perishing  in  the  ground,  and  it  will  be  in  a 
state  to  receive  the  first  advantage  of  the  growing  season  :  if  a 
frame  and  lights,  or  hand-glasses  can  be  spared  to  put  over  it,  they 
will  greatly  forward  its  growth :  when  raised  in  this  way,  though  it 
will  not  be  so  early,  it  will  not  be  so  subject  either  to  start  to  seed, 
or  to  pipe,  as  if  sown  and  forced  in  a  hot-bed. 

But  those  who  wish  to  have  celery  as  early  as  possible,  should 
sow  the  seed  on  a  slight  hot-bed,  and  cover  it  \vith  a  frame  ar.d 
lights,  or  with  hand-glasses  ;  or  in  default  of  these,  cover  on  nights 
and  bad  weather  with  mats,  placed  on  hoops  stuck  arch-ways  over 
the  beds  to  support  them ;  being  careful,  in  either  method,  when 
the  plants  are  come  up,  to  admit  the  free  air  every  mild  day. 

There  should  not  be  many  of  these  early  sown  plants,  planted  out 
for  a  continuing  supply,  only  a  few  to  come  in  before  the  general 
crop,  for  they  will  soon  pipe  and  run  up  to  seed. 

Sowing  Radish  Seed. 

Towards  the  end  of  this  month,  if  the  weather  is  mild  and  the 
ground  open,  you  may  dig  a  warm  border  to  sow  therein  some 
early-frame,  short-top,  and  white  turnep-rooted  radish-seeds,  to 
draw  for  sallads  in  April  and  early  in  May.  Dig  another  piece  at 
the  same  time  for  salmon-radish,  which  will  succeed  the  former. 

Let  them  generally  be  sown  broad-cast  on  the  surface,  either  in 
a  continued  space,  or  in  four  or  five  feet  wide  beds,  and  rake  them 
in  with  an  even  hand  ;  or  in  sowing  large  crops  in  one  continued 
space,  if  quite  dry  light  ground,  it  is  eligible,  before  raking  in,  to 
tread  down  the  seed  lightly,  then  rake  it  in  regularly. 

You  may  sow  among  these  crops  of  radishes,  a  sprinkling  of 
spinach  and  lettuce-seed  ;  the  spinach  will  come  in  after  the  radish, 
and  the  lettuce  after  the  spinach. 

The  radishes  sown  last  month  must  be  carefully  protected  by  co- 
vering the  glasses  at  night,  and  in  very  severe  weather,  with  mats, 
fcc.  and  they  must  have  plenty  of  air  occasionally,  otherwise  they 
will  not  root  well. 

In  order  to  have  radishes  tolerably  early,  or  to  succeed  those 
sown  in  January,  let  some  of  the  early  kinds  above  mentioned  be 
now  sowed  on  a  slight  hot-bed,  as  directed  in  page  14,  and  treated  as 
there  advised :  or  you  may  sow  them  on  such  beds,  under  cover  of 
oiled-paper  frames,  or  of  mats  ;  but  radishes  are  not  apt  to  root  well 
under  covering  of  mats,  especially  when  necessity  requires  them  ta 


124  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  [FEB. 

tremely  careful  to  give  them  as  much  air  and  light  at  every  oppor- 
tunity as  possiblej  consistent  with  their  safety. 

Spinach. 

Sow  some  prickly-seeded  spinach,  it  being  the  hardiest  kind, 
about  the  latter  end  of  the  month ;  let  some  dry  warm  ground  be 
prepared  for  this  purpose,  and  sow  the  seed  thereon  thin  and  regu- 
lar, either  broad-cast  and  raked  in,  or  in  drills  a  foot  asunder,  or  on 
four  feet  wide  beds  ;  being  careful  that,  in  either  case,  the  seed  be 
not  covered  more  than  from  an  inch,  to  half  an  inch  deep,  accord- 
ing to  the  lightness  or  stiffness  of  the  ground. 

The  smooth-seeded  round  leaved  kind,  is  the  best  to  sow  during 
the  remainder  of  the  spring  and  early  summer  months  ;  but,  for 
this  early  sowing,  the  prickly  seeded  being  more  hardy,  is  pre- 
ferable. 

07^  I  am  well  aware,  that  in  the  far  greater  part  of  the  eastern 
states,  the  ground  is  generally,  during  the  whole  of  this  month,  and 
a  considerable  part  of  March,  so  bound  up  with  frost,  as  not  to  be 
dug  or  cultivated ;  but  this  not  being  the  case  in  the  middle  states, 
except  in  very  severe  seasons,  and  not  at  ail  in  the  southern  states, 
I  am  induced  to  give  these  directions  for  the  sowing  of  early  crops, 
and  where  the  state  of  the  weather  permits,  they  may  be  practiced 
to  advantage,  and  where  not,  the  business  must  be  deferred  a  little 
longer. 

Sowing  Lettuce  Seed. 

If  the  weather  be  mild,  and  the  ground  in  good  condition,  you 
may,  about  the  latter  end  of  this  month,  sow  some  lettuce  seed  on 
a  south  border,  which  ought  to  be  well  defended  by  a  wall,  hedge, 
or  board,  fence,  &c.  The  kinds  most  suitable  to  be  sown  at  this 
time,  are  the  early  curled,  and  common  cabbage  lettuces,  if  in- 
tended to  be  cut  up  for  small  sallading  ;  in  which  case,  they  aretobe 
sown  very  thick  on  the  surface,  after  the  ground  having  been  raked 
tolerably  well,  and  then  raked  in  ;  or  they  may  be  sown  in  beds,  or 
drills  according  to  fancy ;  observing,  that  these  seeds  require  but  a 
very  slight  covering. 

You  may  also  sow  any  other  kinds  of  lettuce,  such  as  the  white, 
or  green  cos,  Egyptian  and  spotted  cos,  which  are  excellent  kinds  ; 
or  if  for  cabbaging  or  heading,  you  may  sow  the  white  Silicia,  grand 
admiral,  large  mogul,  brown  Dutch,  or  New-Zealand  lettuces,  all  of 
which  form  good  hard  heads  ;  for  this  purpose,  they  must  be  sown 
very  thin,  and  when  arrived  at  a  due  size,  be  transplanted  in  rows 
into  the  different  borders,  Sec.  as  directed  in  March  ;  leaving  a  suf- 
ficient quantity  to  occupy  the  seed-bed,  which  will  head  earlier  than 
those  that  shall  have  been  transplanted. 

If  those  be  covered  in  nights  and  in  very  unfavourable  weather, 
either  with  mats  or  boards,  &c.  it  will  greatly  forward  their  growth. 
But  in  order  to  have  a  few  in  a  more  advanced  state  for  trans- 
planting, and  also  for  early  small  sallading ;  you  may  sow  any  of  the 
above  kinds  in  a  hot-bed,  those  for  the  latter  purpose  very  thick,and 


FEB.]  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  125 

for  the  former  pretty  thin  ;  the  cos  lettuces,  not  growing  flat  or  in 
a  spreading  manner,  are  peculiarly  adapted  for  sowing-  in  hot-beds 
at  this  season,  but  either  of  the  kinds  may  be  sown,  and  with  due 
care  and  proper  thinning,  be  brought  to  good  and  early  perfection. 
Lettuces  which  have  stood  the  winter,  closely  planted,  in  frames, 
should,  about  the  end  of  this  month,  be  thinned  to  abcut  nine 
inches,  or  if  expected  to  grow  very  large,  a  foot  asunder j  the 
plants  which  are  drawn  out,  may  be  planted  into  other  frames,  or 
into  warm  borders,  where  they  can  be  well  protected  with  mats,  or 
some  suitable  covering,  till  they  are  inured  by  degrees  to  bear  the 
open  air  ;  but  if  the  weather  is  unfavourable,  and  that  you  have  not 
a  sufficiency  of  frames  to  receive  the  plants,  it  will  be  better  to  de- 
fer this  work  till  next  month,  being  particular  to  pick  off  all  decay- 
ed leaves,  and  to  stir  the  earth  a  little  about  their  roots. 

Solving  Carrot   Seed. 

When  carrots  are  desired  at  an  early  season,  some  seed  may  be 
sowed  in  a  slight  hot-bed  in  the  beginning  or  middle  of  this  month, 
make  this  bed^two  and  a  half  feet  high  put  on  the  frame,  and  cover 
the  bed  with  light  dry  earth  six  or  eight  inches  deep ;  sow  the 
seed  thinly  on  the  surface,  and  cover  it  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch, 
with  the  same  kind  of  earth ;  when  the  plants  are  up,  give  them 
plenty  of  air,  and  thin  them  as  they  advance  in  growth ;  keep  the 
glasses  well  covered  at  night,  and  in  extremely  severe  weather,  and 
in  April  you  may  expect  handsome  roots. 

This  seed  if  sown  as  above,  towards  the  latter  end  of  the  month, 
will  succeed  very  well,  without  the  assistance,  of  glass,  if  the  bed, 
is  carefully  covered  at  nights,  and  occasionally,  as  the  weather  may 
happen  to  be  severe,  in  the  day  time,  with  garden  mats,  &c.  you 
may  also,  about  the  end  of  the  month,  sow  a  small  quantity  of  car- 
rot seed,  on  a  warm  border  of  light,  dry  rich  earth,  and,  if  the 
season  proves  favourable  they  will  succeed  tolerably  well,  and  be  fit 
for  use  at  a  very  acceptable  period  :  for  the  method  of  doing  which.j 
see  March. 

Parsnefis  and  Beets. 

Parsneps  being  very  hardy  plants,  and  the  seeds  remaining  in  the 
ground  a  long  time  before  they  vegetate,  may  be  sown  as  early  in 
this  month  as  the  ground  can  be  got  in  proper  condition  to  receive 
the  seed,  which  ought  always  to  be  a  principal  consideration  ;  for 
nothing  can  be  worse  than  to  work  ground  whilst  too  wet.  I  would 
not,  however,  advise  to  sow  more  at  this  time,  than  what  may  answer 
for  a  first  early  crop. 

Sow  a  small  quantity  of  beet-seed  on  a  warm  border,  in  drills,  for 
a  first  crop ;  but  this  ought  not  to  be  done  till  about  the  end  of  the 
month. 

Observe,  that  seeds  which  are  sown  in  the  open  ground  at  this 
time,  cannot  have  much  advantage,  as  to  earliness,  over  those  which 
y  be  sown  two  weeks  later  ;  therefore  would  advise,  never  to  sow 


THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  [FEB. 

be  kept  on  for  any  considerable  length  of  time,  unless  you  ar,e  ex- 
ceeds till  the  ground  is  in  a  good  dry  state,  and  proper  condition  to 
Teceive  them. 

Sowing  Peas. 

Towards  the  latter  end  of  this  month,  prepare  a  dry  and  well  si- 
tuated piece  of  ground  for  an  early  crop  of  peas,  the  early-frame, 
early  Charleton,  and  Golden  hot-spurs,  are  the  kinds  most  suitable 
for  this  crop,  but  more  particularly  the  first,  though  the  others  are 
excellent,  and  will  immediately  succeed  the  early-frame. 

Sow  each  sort  separate,  and  pretty  thick,  in  rows  or  drills  three 
feet  asunder,  covering  them  not  more  than  about  an  inch  and  a  half; 
or  if  the  ground  be  very  loose  and  light,  two  inches  deep  ;  but  if  it 
is  of  a  stiff  nature,  one  inch  will  be  sufficient. 

But,  in  order  to  give  the  first  early  crops  a  greater  advantage, 
prepare  a  south  border  of  dry  light  earth  for  their  reception,  and 
raise  the  earth  into  narrow  sloping  ridges,  about  a  foot  broad  at  the 
base,  and  nine  inches  high  and  at  the  distance  of  three  feet  from 
each  other  i  ranging  these  in  a  south  west  direction,  from  the  north 
side  of  the  border  ;  then  on  the  easterly  sides  of  these  ridges, 
about  half  their  height,  sow  your  drills  of  peas,  giving  them  the 
same  depth  of  covering,  as  above  directed.  In  this  situation,  they 
•will  have  all  the  advantage  of  the  morning  and  mid-day  sun,  lie  dry, 
and  will  consequently  advance  in  vegetation,  much  more  rapidly> 
than  if  sown  in  the  ordinary  way. 

Raising  Peas  in  Hot-beds,   &c. 

Where  a  few  peas  are  particularly  required,  in  the  most  early 
season,  they  may  be  obtained  by  sowing  some  of  the  early  dwarf 
kinds  in  a  hot-bed,  to  remain,  or  rather  to  be  transplanted  from  that 
into  another ;  either  of  which  methods,  should  be  performed  early 
in  this  month,  if  neglected  in  last.  These  may  be  sown  in  a 
large  hot-bed,  in  rows  from  the  back  to  the  front  of  the  bed,  to  re- 
main :  or  it  would  be  rather  more  eligible,  to  sow  them  thick  on  a 
small  hot-bed,  to  be  transplanted  into  a  larger,  when  about  an  inch 
or  two  high  ;  and  if  you  have  any  in  an  advanced  state,  you  may  now 
transplant  them  as  above,  to  remain  for  bearing.  But  if  you  have 
the  convenience  of  a  Hot -house,  or  Forcing-house  of  any  kind  ;  you 
may  easily  and  expeditiously  raise  them  therein,  by  either  sowing 
the  seeds,  or  planting  the  plants,  if  in  a  state  of  forwardness,  in 
large  pots,  and  depositing  these  in  convenient  places  in  those 
houses. 

N.  B.  A  large  quantity  of  the  fallen  leaves  of  trees,  laid  round  all 
your  hot-beds,  as  high  as  the  upper  parts  of  the  frames,  especially, 
those  which  contain  tender  plants,  will  afford  them  a  very  necessary 
protection,  by  preventing  the  frost  from  penetrating  through  the 
sides  and  ends  of  the  frames,  and  at  the  same  time  they  will  produce 
a  lasting  and  comforting  heat  in  the  beds. 

Planting  Beans. 

By  beans,  I  mean  the  Vicia  Faba  of  Linn&us,  and  not  the  Pha- 
seolus  '-vulgaris,  or  Kidney-beans. 


lEij.j  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  127 

A  full  crop  of  those  should  be  planted  as  early  in  this,  or  the  next' 
month,  as  it  is  possible  to  get  them  into  the  ground  ;  for  it  is  from 
the  early  sown  crops  of  these,  that  any  tolerable  produce  may  be 
expected  in  the  United  States,  especially  in  the  middle  and  southern 
parts. 

For  this  purpose,  as  soon  as  the  weather  will  permit,  dig  an 
open  quarter  of  good  ground,  observing  that  a  strong  heavy  soil  is 
the  most  suitable,  but  see  that  it  is  not  too  wet  when  you  work  it ; 
in  which,  plant  a  full  crop  of  the  early  Mazagan,  early  Lisbon,  long- 
podded,  white-blossom,  large  Windsor,  toker,  sandwich,  and  other 
kinds  :  by  planting  these  different  varieties  at  one  time,  they  will 
come  into  bearing  in  a  regular  succession,  according  to  their  differ- 
ent degrees  of  earliness.  You  need  not  be  under  any  apprehension 
of  their  being  injured  by  the  weather,  as  they  are  of  a  hardy  nature, 
and  will  not  suffer  by  any  frost  which  may  overtake  them,  except 
in  very  extraordinary  cases. 

Plant  the  small  early  kinds,  in  drills,  three  feet  asunder,  and  the 
beans  twaor  three  inches  distant  in  the  rows,  or  they  may  be  planted 
two  rows  in  each  drill,  four  inches  distant  each  way,  and  covered 
two  inches  deep. 

The  large  kinds,  such  as  the  Windsor,  toker,  sandwich  and 
broad  Spanish,  should  be  planted  at  the  distance  of  four  feet,  row 
from  row,  and  somewhat  thinner  than  the  small  kinds.  These 
may  also  be  planted  occasionally  by  dibble,  but  drilling  is  the  more 
expeditious  and  better  way. 

You  may  continue  planting  these  kinds  once  a  week  till  the  end 
of  March,  but  those  planted  after  that  season  will  not  be  so  pro- 
ductive. 

These  kinds  may  be  forced  in  like  manner  as  peas,  if  desired; 
for  their  further  treatment,  see  the  following  months. 

Sowing  Parsley  Seed. 

Sow  some  of  the  common,  and  curled  parsley  seeds,  in  drills, 
on  some  warm  border,  to  produce  an  early  supply ;  the  seed  will 
remain  a  long  time  in  the  ground  before  it  comes  up,  but  there  is  no 
danger  of  its  perishing. 

Mushrooms. 

The  same  care  that  was  directed  last  month  in  page  14,  must  be 
contrived  with  due  attention,  to  your  mushroom  beds ;  being  par- 
ticular to  preserve  them  effectually  from  frost  and  wet,  either  of 
which  would  destroy  the  spawn,  and  render  your  beds  unpro*- 
ductive. 

Artichokes. 

If  the  weather  is  extremely  severe,  and  that  you  hare  not  attend- 
ed to  it  before,  lay  some  dry  long  litter  over  the  rows  of  your  choice 
globe  artichokes,  which  will  tend  greatly  to  their  preservation. 


128  THE  FRUIT-GARDEN,  [FEB. 

SOUTHERN    STATES. 

In  Georgia,  South  Carolina,  and  other  parts  of  the  more  south- 
ern states,  this  will  be  a  very  principal  month  with  the  inhabitants, 
for  making  their  Kitchen-gardens  ;  for  the  method,  of  doing  which  I 
can  only  refer  them  to  the  Kitchen  -garden  for  March  and  April,  the 
work  recommended  to  be  done  in  these  months  being  quite  applica- 
ble with  them  at  this  season. 

In  the  more  northerly  of  the  southern  states,  much  work  can  be 
done  in  the  Kitchen-garden  this  month  ;  but  the  next  will  be  their 
important  period,  to  which  I  refer  them. 


.     THE  FRUIT  GARDEN. 


Pruning   Wall  and  Espalier 

PEACHES,  nectarines,  and  apricots,  should,  in  the  middle 
States,  be  pruned  about  the  latter  end  of  this  month  ;  the  begin- 
ning of  next  will  be  a  good  time  in  the  eastern  states.  This  must 
be  duly  attended  to  before  the  buds  are  much  swelled  ;  for  then, 
many  of  them  would  be  unavoidably  rubbed  off  in  performing  the 
work, 

Examine  these  trees  well,  and  cut  away  all  such  parts  as  are  use- 
less, both  in  old  and  young  wood  ;  and  leave  a  proper  supply  of  the 
last  years  shoots  for  next  summer's  bearing  ;  all  old  wood  that  has 
advanced  a  considerable  length,  and  produced  no  young  shoots 
proper  for  bearing  this  year,  nor  support  branches  that  do,  are  use- 
less, and  should  now  be  cut  out,  to  make  room  for  better  ;  observing 
that  a  general  successional  supply  of  young  bearing  wood,  of  the 
best  well-placed  shoots  of  last  summer,  must  now  be  retained  in  all 
parts  of  the  tree  at  moderate  distances,  to  bear  the  fruit  to  be  ex- 
pected the  ensuing  season  ;  at  the  same  time  cut  away  all  the  ill- 
placed  and  superfluous  shoots,  and  very  luxuriant  growths,  together 
with  part  of  the  former  year's  bearers,  &c.  to  make  room  for  the 
successional  bearing  shoots,  as  observed  in  January. 

As  you  proceed,  let  the  supply  of  reserved  shoots  be  shortened, 
each  according  to  its  strength.  Shoots  of  a  vigorous  growth  should 
be  shortened  but  a  little  ;  that  is,  you  may  cut  off  about  one  fourth 
of  the  original  length  :  those  of  a  moderate  growth  should  be 
shortened  more  in  proportion,  by  cutting  off  about  one  third  ;  for 
instance,  a  shoot  of  eighteen  inches  should  be  shortened  to  twelve, 
or  thereabouts  ;  and  observe  the  same  proportion  according  to  the 
different  length  of  the  shoots. 

But  for  the  more  particular  method  of  pruning  these  trees,  sec 
the  work  of  the  fruit  garden  in  January,  page  2  1  . 

Pruning  of  Apples  and  Pears,  &c. 

Prune  apples,  pears,  plums  and  cherries,  against  walls  or  espal- 
iers ;  and,  if  possible,  let  the  whole  of  them  be  finished  this  month. 


FEB.]  THE  FRUIT-GARDEN.  129 

In  pruning  these  trees,  observe,  as  directed  last  month,  that  as 
the  same  branches  or  bearers  remain  many  years  in  a  proper  fruit- 
ful state,  continue  them  trained  close  and  straight  to  the  wall,  or 
espalier,  not  shortening  their  ends,  but  still  continue  training  each 
at  full  length  as  far  as  the  limited  space  admits,  and  laying  them  in 
about  four,  five,  or  six  inches  asunder. 

In  the  next  place,  observe,  that  if  the  branches  be  any  where 
much  crowded  ;  that  is,  if  the  bearing  or  principal  branches  are 
closer  than  four,  five,  or  six  inches  from  one  another,  some  should 
be  pruned  out :  observing,  in  this  case,  to  take  off  such  as  are 
worst  situated,  and  particularly  such  as  appear  to  be  the  most  toi- 
likely  to  bear,  by  being  either  worn  out,  or,  at  least,  not  well  fur- 
nished with  fruit-spurs,  as  mentioned  last  month.  Likewise  ob- 
serve, that  when  necessary  to  make  room  in  any  particular  part  of 
the  tree,  to  train  more  regularly  any  eligible  branches  which  are 
evidently  well  adapted  for  bearing ;  room  must  be  made  for  them, 
by  cutting  out  such  barren  branches  as  above  described  ;  and  in  any 
trees  where  the  general  branches  are  trained  considerably  too  close, 
and  crowding  in  a  confused  irregularity,  let  some  of  the  most  un- 
serviceable and  irregular-growths  be  cut  out  in  a  thinning  order,  in 
different  parts  of  such  trees  ;  to  make  room  for  training  the  other 
more  useful  and  eligible  branches,  in  a  proper  expansion  at  regular 
distances. 

When  any  old  or  large  branches  are  to  be  taken  out,  let  them  be 
cut  off  close  to  the  places  from  whence  they  arise,  or  to  any  eligible 
lateral  branches  which  they  support,  and  that  you  shall  think  conve- 
nient to  leave  ;  in  cutting  off  either  old  or  young  branches,  never 
leave  any  stumps. 

After  cutting  out  any  large  branches,  let  such  as  remain  near  that 
part  be  unnailed,  or  unbound,  in  order  to  be  brought  higher  or  low- 
er, as  you  shall  see  necessary,  to  train  them  all  at  equal  distances  : 
or  when  there  are  several  large  branches  to  be  taken  out  in  different 
parts,  the  whole  tree  should  be  unnailed  or  unbound  ;  then  you  can 
more  readily  train  the  general  branches  and  bearers  in  exact  order. 

Next,  let  it  be  observed,  that  where  a  supply  of  wood  is  wanted, 
leave  some  of  the  best  situated  of  last  summer's  shoots,  such  as  direct- 
ed to  be  retained  in  the  summer  pruning,  to  fill  up  the  vacancies  j 
and  generally  leave  a  leading  one  at  the  end  of  each  branch,  where 
you  have  room  to  train  them.  But  all  others  of  the  last  year's 
shoots,  not  wanted  for  the  above  purpose,  should  every  one  be  cut 
off  close  to  the  places  from  whence  they  proceed,  leaving  no  spurs 
but  what  are  naturally  produced.  The  proper  fruit  spurs  are  such 
as  were  described  last  month,  being  produced  on  the  sides  and  ends 
of  the  branches,  short,  robust,  and  from  about  half  an  inch  to  an  inch 
or  two  in  length. 

Let  these  fruit-spurs  be  well  attended  to  in  pruning,  carefully 
preserving  all  those  of  a  fresh,  plump,  robust  growth  ;  but  those  of 
a  worn-out  or  rugged  unsightly  appearance,  or  that  project  consi- 
derably long  and  irregular  from  the  front  of  the  branches  in  a  fore- 
right  direction,  should  generally  be  displaced,  in  order  to  preserve 


130  THE  FRUIT-GARDEN.  [FEB. 

the  regularity  of  the  trees,  taking  care  to  cut  them  off  close,  by 
which  new  ones  will  be  encouraged  in  places  contiguous. 

Having,  in  the  course  of  pruning  these  trees,  left  most  of  the 
general  shoots  and  branches  at  their  natural  length,  as  befere  ad- 
vised, in  all  places  where  there  is  full  scope  to  extend  them  ;  let 
them  be  all  trained  in  regularly  in  that  order,  and  nailed  straight  and 
close  to  the  wall,  or  nailed  or  tied  to  the  espalier,  about  four,  five,  or 

six  inches  distant For  the  management  of  young  trees  of  these 

sorts,  see  the  work  of  the  Fruit  Garden  in  March,  and  for  the  me- 
thods of  pruning  and  treating  your  standard  fruit-trees  in  this  de- 
partment, see  the  article  Orchard  in  January,  pages  38,  39  and  40, 
and  also  the  same  head,  both  in  this  month  and  March. 

fig  Trees. 

Except  in  the  southern  states,  it  will  not  be  advisable  to  attempt 
pruning  your  fig-trees,  till  towards  the  end  of  next  month,  or  be- 
ginning of  April ;  to  which  I  shall  refer  you  for  particular  re- 
marks and  directions. 

Prune  and  plant  Gooseberry  and  Currant  Trees. 

Gooseberries  and  currants  should  be  pruned  now,  if  emitted  in  the 
former  months,  both  in  the  standard  bushes  and  those  against  walk, 
fences,  &c. 

In  pruning  the  common  standards,  observe  to  cut  away  all 
cross-growing  branches,  and  regulate  such  as  advance  in  a  strag- 
gling manner  from  the  rest.  Or  where  the  branches  in  general 
stand  so  close  as  to  interfere,  let  them  be  thinned  properly,  so  that 
every  branch  may  stand  clear  of  the  other,  at  a  regular  moderate 
distance :  and  prune  out  the  superabundant  lateral  and  other  unne- 
cessary shoots  of  last  bummer.. ..See  the  Fruit  garden  of  last 
month  page  24,  and  also  October. 

Let  these  shrubs  be  always  trained  with  a  single  stem,  clear  of 
branches,  six  or  eight  inches  to  a  foot  from  the  ground,  as  directed 
in  the  former  month. 

Likewise  to  currants,  8cc.  against  walls,  give  a  necessary  pruning 
and  regulation,  as  directed  in  January,  £cc. 

Gooseberry  and  currant  trees  may  be  planted  towards  the  end  of 
this  month,  if  the  weather  permits,  both  in  standards  for  the  gene- 
ral plantation,  at  six  to  seven  or  eight  feet  distance,  and  some 
against  walls,  board  fences,  &c.  for  earlier  fruit,  but  principally 
currants ;  and  let  these,  for  the  most  part,  be  of  the  best  red  and 
white  sorts. 

You  may  occasionally  plant  a  few  of  the  best  kinds  of  gooseber- 
ries to  north  walls,  which  is  the  most  suitable  situation  for  them, 
in  our  climates,  next  to  that,  east  or  west  walls ;  but  plant  only 
very  few  to  those  fronting  the  south,  as  in  such  a  situation  the  sun 
would  in  summer,  be  much  too  powerful  for  these  shrubs. 

For  the  method  of  propagating  and  raising  them,  see  the  work 
of  the  Jvursery  in  Marchy  and  October. 


FEB.]  THE  FRUIT-GRADEN.  131 


Rasfiberries. 

Raspberries  may  be  pruned  towards  the  latter  end  of  this  month, 
especially,  if  the  weather  be  tolerably  mild ;  in  doing  of  which,  observe 
to  clear  away  all  the  old  decayed  stems  which  bore  fruit  last  sea- 
son, and  to  leave  three,  four,  or  five  of  the  strongest  of  last  year's 
shoots  standing  on  each  root,  to  bear  next  summer:  all  above 
that  number,  on  every  root,  must  be  cut  off  close  to  the  surface  of 
the  ground,  and  all  straggling  shoots  between  the  main  plants  must 
also  be  taken  away. 

Each  of  the  shoots  which  are  left  should  be  shortened,  observing 
to  cut  off  about  one  third  or  fourth  of  their  original  length. 

The  shoots  of  each  root,  when  pruned,  if  considerably  long  and 
straggling,  may  be  tied  two  or  three  together  ;  for  by  that  method 
they  support  one  another,  so  as  not  to  be  borne  down  in  summer 
by  theweight  of  heavy  rains,  or  violent  winds. 

When  you  have  finished  pruning,  or  as  soon  after  as  possible, 
dig  the  grour.d  between  the  plants,  observing,  as  you  dig,  to  clear 
away  all  straggling  growths  in  the  intervals,  leaving  none  but  such 
as  belong  to  the  shoots  which  are  left  to  bear. 

New  plantations  of  raspberries  may  be  made  about  the  latter  end 
of  this  month,  where  the  severe  winter  frosts  are  over,  and  the 
ground  in  proper  condition ;  but  where  this  is  not  the  case,  that 
work  must  be  deferred  till  next  month,  or  until  the  soil  is  in  a  fit 
state  for  cultivation.... For  the  method  of  making  these  plantations, 
see  the  Fruit -gar  den  in  March  and  October. 

The  Antwerp  raspberries,  which  had  on  the  approach  of  winter 
been  laid  down  and  covered  with  litter,  Sec.  on  account  of  their  be- 
ing somewhat  more  tender  than  the  common  kinds,  ought  not  to  be 
disturbed,  till  the  opening  of  good  weather  in  March,  unless  their 
buds  begin  to  swell  too  freely. 

Strawberries. 

Continue  to  force  early  strawberries,  as  directed  last  month,  in 
pages  26  and  98,  which  see. 

Having  two  or  three  years  old  bearing  plants  in  pots,  as  then  di- 
rected, plunge  them  into  the  hot-beds,  and  manage  them  as  there 
advised. 

Be  careful  to  admit  plenty  of  air  to  the  plants,  at  every  favourable 
opportunity,  by  setting  up  the  glasses  behind  every  mild  day,  and  at 
intervals  give  gentle  waterings  to  the  earth  in  the  pots  round  the 
plants,  not  pouring  it  over  them,  especially  while  they  are  in  flower. 

When  you  find  the  heat  of  the  beds  to  be  on  the  decline,  renew 
it  by  adding  a  lining  of  fresh  horse-dung  to  the  sides  or  ends,  or  to 
both,  as  necessity  may  require  ;  and  be  very  particular  in  covering 
the  glasses  every  night  with  mats,  or  other  covering. 

This  is  also  a  very  successful  time  to  place  pots  of  strawberry 
plants  in  the  hot-house,  or  in  any  forcing-house  ;  they  will  in  these 
places  bear  well,  and  in  early  perfection. 


132  THE  FRUIT-GARDEN.  [FEB. 

forcing  early  Fruit  in  Forcing-houses. 

The  beginning  of  this  month,  if  not  done  before,  you  may  pro- 
ceed to  forcing  fruit- trees  in  hot-walls,  peach-houses,  cherry -houses, 
6cc.  by  aid  of  fire  or  other  artificial  heat ;  the  proper  sorts  are 
peaches,  nectarines,  apricots,  cherries,  figs,  vines,  plums,  &c.  hav- 
ing young  trees  for  this  purpose  that  are  arrived  to  a  bearing  state, 
and  planted  a  year  or  two  before  in  the  borders,  8cc.  of  the  forcing 
departments  ;  or  you  may  have  some  also  in  large  pots  or  tubs,  to 
remove  therein  at  forcing  time  occasionally.  The  trees  may  be 
both  as  wall-trees  and  espaliers,  training  the  branches  to  a  trellis 
erected  for  that  purpose,  and  some  may  be  in  dwarf  standards  ;  you 
may  also  have  some  cherries,  both  in  small-headed  standards, 
half  standards  and  dwarfs  ;  and  vines  trained  up  under  the  sloping 
glasses See  Hot-house^  December. 

Let  moderate  fires  be  made  every  afternoon  and  evening  ;  and  if 
there  is  a  pit  within  the  forcing-house,  in  which  to  have  a  bark  or 
dung  hot-bed,  you  may  make  the  bed  a  week  or  ten  days  before 
you  begin  the  fires ;  and  if  a  bark  bed  is  intended,  fill  the  pit  with 
new  tanner's  bark ;  or  if  a  dung  hot-bed,  make  it  with  fresh  hot 
horse-dung  ;  and  when  it  has  settled  down  six  or  eight  inches,  lay 
that  depth  of  tanner's  bark  at  top.  These  beds  will  support  a  con- 
stant moderate  warmth  in  which  you  may  plant  pots  of  dwarf  cher- 
ries and  of  scarlet  and  Alpine  strawberries  ;  which  will  have  fruit 
very  early, -and  in  great  perfection.  Continue  making  fires  every 
evening,  and  support  them  till  ten  or  eleven  o'clock,  to  warm  the  air 
of  the  house  till  morning,  when  the  fire  may  be  renewed  moderately, 
but  not  constantly  the  whole  day,  except  in  very  severe  weather, 
especially,  if  there  is  the  assistance  of  a  bark  hot-bed  ;  unless  it  is 
required  to  forwad  the  trees  as  much  as  possible.  However,  where 
there  is  no  internal  hot-bed,  you  must  continue  a  constant,  regular 
moderate,  fire-heat. 

With  this  management  the  trees  will  soon  begin  to  advance  in 
blosbom-buds,  &c.  when  you  must  be  careful  to  continue  a  regular 
moderate  heat  in  the  house. 

Admit  fresh  air  to  the  trees  every  mild  day  when  sunny,  espe- 
cially after  they  begin  to  bud  and  shoot,  either  by  sliding  clown 
some  of  the  upper  sloping  glasses  two  or  three  inches,  or  drawing 
some  of  the  uprights  in  front  a  little  way  open,  shutting  all  close 
towards  the  afternoon,  or  as  soon  as  the  weather  changes  cold ; 
giving  air  more  fully  as  the  warm  season  increases,  and  as  the  trees 
advance  in  blossom  and  shooting. 

Give  also  occasional  waterings  both  to  the  borders  and  over  the 
branches  of  the  trees  before  they  blossom ;  but  when  in  flower,  and 
until  the  fruit  is  all  fairly  well  set,  desist  from  watering  over  the 
branches,  lest  it  destroy  the  fecundating  pollen  of  the  anthera  destined 
for  the  impregnation  of  the  fruit. 

The  fires  may  be  continued  till  towards  May,  being  careful  never 
to  make  them  stronger  than  to  raise  the  internal  heat  to  about  60° 
of  Fahrenheit's  thermometer,  in  peach  and  cherry -houses,  and  70° 
in  vine-houses  j  for  in  vineries,  having  only  principally  vines  in 


FEB.]  THE  ORCHARD.  133 

forcing,  the  heat  is  generally  continued  stronger,  as  they  bear  it 
in  a  higher  degree,  whereby  to  forward  the  fruit  to  the  earliest 
perfection. 

According  as  the  fruit  advances  to  full  growth,  continue  assisting 
them  by  waterings ;  and  give  them  free  air  every  warm  sunny  day  ; 
and  when  advancing  towards  ripening,  encourage  a  strong  heat  in  the 
middle  of  the  day,  by  admitting  less  or  more  air,  in  proportion  to 
the  power  of  the  sun5  to  forward  their  maturity,  and  promote  a  rich 
flavour. 

Thus  the  fruits  will  ripen  earlier  by  two  months,  or  more,  in 
some,  than  their  natural  time  of  perfection  in  the  open  ground  and 
full  air. 

In  the  above  forcing  departments  you  may  also  place  pots  of 
currants,  gooseberries,  raspberries,  and  strawberries,  &c. 


THE  ORCHARD. 


THE  feelings  of  a  lover  of  improvement  can  scarcely  be  expressed, 
on  observing  the  almost  universal  inattention  paid  to  the  greater  num- 
ber of  our  Orchards,  and  that  people  who  go  to  a  considerable  ex- 
pence  in  planting  and  establishing  them,  afterwards  leave  them  to 
the  rude  hand  of  nature  ;  as  if  the  art  and  ingenuity  of  man  availed 
nothing,  or  that  they  merited  no  further  care  :  however,  it  is  to  be 
hoped,  that  the  good  example,  and  the  consequent  success,  of  the 
careful  and  industrious,  will  stimulate  others  to  pay  the  necessary 
attention  to  these  departments,  and  thereby  to  serve  themselves  as 
well  as  the  community  at  large. 

At  this  season,  you  can  conveniently  perform  the  very  necessary 
and  important  works  of  pruning,  of  scraping  and  rubbing  off  moss 
and  other  parasitic  plants,  and  of  manuring  the  ground  where  want- 
ed ;  and  as  much  depends  on  these  dressings,  they  should  by  no 
means  be  neglected,  more  especially,  as  this  ;s  a  very  eligible  time 
for  performing  them,  and  one,  with  which  other  business  does  not  fre- 
quently interfere. 

For  the  method  of  pruning  these  trees,  and  other  necessary  ob- 
servations, I  refer  you  to  the  article  Orchard  last  month,  page  38,  &c. 

Where  trees  are  much  overrun  with  moss,  it  may  be  remov- 
ed as  directed  in  page  39  ;  or  a  strong  man,  with  a  good  birch  broom 
in  a  wet  day,  would  do  great  execution.  The  best  method  of  des- 
troying mots  on  young  trees,  is  to  rub  all  the  branches  affected,  in 
spring  or  autumn,  or  in  both  if  necessary,  with  a  hard  scrubbing- 
brush  and  soap-suds.  This  will  not  only  remove  the  moss,  but  tend 
considerably  to  prevent  its  sudden  return. 


134  THE  ORCHARD.  [FEB. 

Canker,  in  a  great  measure,  arises  from  animalcules,  or  small 
or  very  minute  insects  or  worms,  8cc.  of  various  kinds  ;  where  this 
is  the  case,  cut  out  the  whole  of  the  cankered  part,  clean  to  the 
sound  wood,  wash  the  part  well  with  the  following  solution,  and 
also  all  other  parts  that  seem  to  be  in  the  least  affected ;  then  give 
it  a  light  coat  of  the  medicated  tar,  prescribed  in  page  39. 

Dissolve  a  drachm  of  corrosive  sublimate  in  a  gill  of  gin  or  other 
spirit,  and  when  thus  dissolved,  incorporate  it  with  four  quarts  of 
soft  water.  This  solution  will  be  found  to  be  the  most  effectual 
remedy  ever  applied  to  trees,  both  fo^  the  destruction  of  worms  of 
every  species,  and  of  the  eggs  of  insects  deposited  in  the  bark. 
No  danger  to  the  trees,  is  to  be  apprehended  from  its  poisonous 
quality,  wrhich,  in  respect  to  them,  is  perfectly  innocent. 

Peach  trees,  which  are  annoyed  by  worms,  should,  towards  the 
end  of  this  month,  particularly  near,  and  a  little  under  the  surface 
of  the  ground,  be  carefully  examined,  and  where  any  are  found,  they 
must  be  picked  out  with  the  point  of  a  knife,  and  with  as  little  in- 
jury to  the  bark  as  possible  ;  for,  by  lacerating  the  rind  or  bark  in 
a  careless  manner,  which  is  too  frequently  the  case  on  these  occa- 
sions, this  vehicle,  which  nature  has  provided  for  carrying  up  the 
nourishment  extracted  by  the  roots,  being  destroyed,  the  trees  must 
of  course  perish,  or  be  weakened  in  proportion  as  it  is  injured. 

This  being  done,  wash  all  the  trunks  or  stems  of  the  trees,  as  well 
as  any  other  parts  in  which  you  suspect  these  vermin  or  their  em- 
bryo eggs  to  be  lodged,  with  the  above  solution,  and  also  the  wound- 
ed parts  ;  after  which,  apply  with  a  brush  a  slight  dressing  of  the 
medicated  tar  to  each  and  every  of  the  wounds  inflicted  by  picking 
out  the  worms.  This  will  preserve  your  trees  in  health  and  fruit- 
fulness  much  longer  than  if  left  to  the  mercy  of  these  destructive 
intruders. 

As  to  manure,  it  is  well  known  that  where  hogs  and  poultry  are 
constantly  running  over  the  ground,  the  trees  seldom  fail  of  a  crop, 
which  is  the  best  proof  that  manure  is  necessary.  Any  manure  will 
suit  an  Orchard  ;  but  the  sweepings  of  cow-houses,  hog-pens, 
slaughter-houses,  poultry  and  pigeon-houses,  emptyings  of  drains, 
&c.  are  more  disposed  to  facilitate  the  growth  and  promote  the 
health  of  fruit-trees,  than  stable  manure.  However,  any  kind  of 
manure  is  better  than  none  at  all. 

On  Root-fnnirting. 

When  a  tree  has  stood  so  long,  that  the  leading  roots  have  en- 
tered into  the  under  strata,  they  are  apt  to  draw  a  crude  fluid,  which 
the  organs  of  the  more  delicate  fruit-trees  cannot  convert  into 
such  balsamic  juices  as  to  produce  fine  fruit.  To  prevent  this  evil, 
as  soon  as  a  valuable  tree  begins  to  show  a  sickly  pinkiness  upon 
the  leaves,  or  the  fruit  inclining  to  ripeness,  before  it  has  acquired 
its  full  growth,  at  the  same  time  the  bark  becoming  dry,  hard,  and 
disposed  to  crack ;  let  the  ground,  as  soon  in  the  spring  as  the  frost 
is  out  of  it,  be  opened  for  three  or  four  feet  round  the  tree,  and  with  a 
chissel  cut  closz  to  the  horizontal  roots  every  one  that  you  find  in 


FEB.]  THE  ORCHARD.  135 

the  least  tending  downward.  Should  there  be  any  mouldy  appear- 
ance or  rottenness  among  the  roots,  cut  such  out  effectually,  and 
wash  the  others  clean  with  a  weak  lye  or  soap  suds.  If  the  ground 
be  wet,  place  a  few  flat  stones  under  the  places  where  you  cut  of 
the  descending  roots,  to  prevent  the  young  roots  which  may  be  pro- 
duced again  from  about  the  cuts  taking  a  perpendicular  direction, 
and  to  give  them  a  lateral  inclination. 

As  the  roots  invariably  collect  the  sap  from  the  extreme  points, 
this  cutting  compels  the  horizontal  ones  to  work  and  exert  them- 
selves, and  if  there  be  any  energy  left,  they  will  soon  throw  out 
fresh  fibres,  and  thus  collect  a  more  congenial  sap  for  the  support 
of  the  tree  and  fruit.  At  the  same  time,  in  the  filling  in  of  the 
earth,  add  a  quantity  of  good  rotten  manure,  and  cover  the  ground 
thinly  over  with  the  same,  as  far  as  the  roots  may  be  supposed  to 
extend  ;  wash  the  stem  and  branches  with  soap-suds,  or  if  any 
worms  are  perceivable,  with  the  mercurial  or  corrosive  solution, 
and  water  the  ground  round  the  tree  at  intervals  in  very  dry  wea- 
ther, till  you  perceive  it  pushing  vigorously. 

There  is  not  a  more  powerful  agent  for  producing  the  canker  and 
other  disorders,  than  these  descending  roots.  Canker  indeed  may 
arise  from  an  improper  soil,  a  vitiated  sap,  animalcules,  and  the  want 
of  free  circulation  of  the  fluids  :  the  last  is  often  caused  by  injudi- 
ciously shortening  too  many  of  the  leading  branches.  The  medi- 
cation before  recommended,  will  stop  the  progress  of  the  evil  on  the 
parts  to  which  it  is  applied  ;  but  the  canker  may  again  break  out  on 
the  other  parts  of  the  same  tree,  and  that  arises  very  frequently 
from  the  roots  striking  into  a  cold  and  unfriendly  soil. 

The  fluids  being  once  vitiated  by  any  subterraneous  cause,  canker 
is  not  the  only  evil,  insects  are  invited  thereby  to  deposit  their  eggs 
in  the  bark,  which  in  due  time  become  crawling  maggots ;  these 
feed  on  the  sap  of  the  trees,  devouring  the  inner  bark  and  rind  as 
they  proceed,  until  the  period  of  their  chrysalis  ;  which  having  un- 
dergone, they  take  wing  and  fly  off,  and  in  their  progress  seldom 
fail  to  lay  the  foundation  of  similar  mischief. 

From  this  may  be  inferred  the  necessity  of  making  a  judicious 
choice  of  proper  ground  for  your  fruit  trees,  and  paying  due  atten- 
tion to  their  cultivation  and  health  ;  for  it  is  quite  as  presumable,  if 
not  more  so,  that  the  vitiated  juices  of  the  trees  invite  the  worms, 
than  that  they  are  the  original  cause  which  produces  it. 

When  any  of  your  fruit  trees  are  growing  extremely  luxuriant, 
and  continue  to  produce  no  fruit,  though  having  arrived  at  a  pro- 
per age  for  that  purpose  ;  they  may  be  forced  into  a  bearing  state, 
by  opening  the  ground  around  them,  and  cutting  through  a  few  of 
their  largest  roots,  but  especially  the  descending  ones  ;  the  depri- 
vation which  will  arise  from  this,  of  their  extraordinary  resources, 
which  was  the  cause  of  their  running  into  such  a  luxuriancy  of 
wood,  will  soon  bring  them  into  a  bearing  state  ;  but  be  careful 
that  you  smooth  with  a  chissel  or  other  sharp  instrument,  the 
roots  at  the  amputations,  and  not  have  them  in  a  mangled  state, 
which  might  bring  on  diseases  that  probably  would  destroy  the 
trees. 


136  THE  ORCHARD.  [FEB. 

The  following  extracts,  taken  from  a  communication  made  by  that 
ingenious  citizen,  DOCTOR  JAMES  TILTON,  of  Wilmington,  Dela- 
ware, and  published  in  the  first  American  edition  of  the  Domestic 
Encyclopaedia,  by  Messrs.  Birch  and  Small,  Philadelphia,  are 
worthy  of  attention  ;  and  the  laudable  efforts  of  that  gentleman, 
both  in  agricultural  and  horticultural  pursuits,  are  highly  merito- 
rious and  deserving  of  emulation. 

"  Curculio,  a  genus  of  insects  belonging  to  the  Coleofitera,  or  Bee- 
tie  order.  The  species  are  said  to  be  very  numerous.  The  im- 
mense damage  done,  by  an  insect  of  this  tribe,  to  the  fruits  of  this 
country,  of  which  there  is  no  similar  account  in  Europe,  has  given 
rise  to  a  conjecture  with  some  naturalists,  that  we  have  a  peculiar 
and  very  destructive  species  in  America. 

"  The  manner  in  which  this  insect  injures  and  destroys  our  fruits, 
is,  by  its  mode  of  propagation. ...Early  in  the  spring,  about  the  time 
when  the  fruit  trees  are  in  blossom,  the  Curculiones  ascend  in  swarms 
from  the  earth,  crawl  up  the  trees,  and  as  the  several  fruits  advance, 
they  puncture  the  rind  or  skin,  with  their  pointed  rostra,  and  deposit 
their  embryos  in  the  wounds  thus  inflicted.  The  maggot  thus  bedded 
in  the  fruit,  preys  upon  its  pulp  and  juices,  until  in  most  instances,  the 
fruit  perishes,  falls  to  the  ground  and  the  insect  escaping  from  so  un- 
safe a  residence,  makes  a  sure  retreat  into  the  earth  :  where,  like 
other  beetles,  it  remains  in  the  form  of  a  grub  or  worm,  during  the 
winter,  ready  to  be  metamorphosed  into  a  bug  or  beetle,  as  the  spring 
advances.  Thus  every  tree  furnishes  its  own  enemy  ;  for  although 
these  bugs  have  manifestly  the  capacity  of  flying,  they  appear 
very  reluctant  in  the  use  of  their  wings ;  and  perhaps  never  employ 
them  but  when  necessity  compels  them  to  migrate.  It  is  a  fact,  that 
two  trees  of  the  same  kind  may  stand  in  the  nearest  possible  neigh- 
bourhood, not  to  touch  each  other,  that  one  have  its  fruit  destroyed  by 
the  Curculio,  and  the  other  be  uninjured,  merely  from  contingent 
circumstances,  which  prevent  the  insects  from  crawling  up  the  one, 
while  they  are  uninterrupted  from  climbing  the  other. 

"  The  curculio  delights  most  in  the  smooth  skinned  stone  fruits, 
such  as  nectarines,  plumbs,  apricots,  &c.  when  they  abound  on  a 
farm  :  they  nevertheless  attack  the  rough  skinned  peach,  the  apple, 
pear,  and  quince.  The  instinctive  sagacity  of  these  creatures  di- 
rects them  especially  to  the  fruits  most  adapted  to  their  purpose. 
The  stone  fruits  more  certainly  perish  by  the  wounds  made  by  these 
insects,  so  as  to  fall  in  due  time  to  the  ground,  and  afford  an  oppor- 
tunity to  the  young  maggot  to  hide  itself  in  the  earth.  Although 
multitudes  of  these  fruits  fall,  yet  many  recover  from  their  wounds, 
which  heal  up  with  deeply  indented  scars.  This  probably  discon- 
certs the  curcalio,  in  its  intended  course  to  the  earth.  Be  this  as 
it  may,  certain  it  is,  that  pears  are  less  liable  to  fall,  and  are  less 
injured  by  this  insect  than  apples.  Nectarines,  plumbs,  &c,  in  most 
districts  of  our  country,  where  the  curculio  has  gained  an  establish- 
ment, are  utterly  destroyed,  unless  special  means  are  employed  for 
their  preservation. ...Cherries  escape  better  on  account  of  their 
rapid  progress  to  maturity  and  their  abundant  crops :  the  curculio 
can  only  puncture  a  small  part  of  them,  during  the  short  time  they 


FEB.]  THE  ORCHARD.  137 

hang  upon  the  tree.  These  destructive  insects  continue  their 
depredations  from  the  first  of  May  until  autumn.  Our  fruits  col- 
lectively estimated  must  thereby  be  depreciated  more  than  half 
their  value. 

"  It  is  supposed  the  curculio  is  not  only  injurious  above  ground, 
but  also  in  its  retreat,  below  the  surface  of  the  earth,  by  preying  on 
the  roots  of  our  fruit  trees.  We  know  that  beetles  have,  in  some 
instances,  abounded  in  such  a  manner  as  to  endanger  whole  forests. 
Our  fruit  trees  often  die,  from  manifest  injuries  done  to  the  roots,  by 
insects,  and  by  no  insects  more  probably  than  the  curculio.  In  dis- 
tricts where  this  insect  abounds,  cherry  trees  and  apple  trees,  which 
disconcert  it  most  above,  appear  to  be  the  special  objects  of  its  ven- 
geance below  the  surface  of  the  earth. 

"  These  are  serious  evils  to  combat  which^  every  scientific  en- 
quirer is  loudly  called  upon  to  exert  his  talents  ;  every  industrious 
farmer  to  double  his  diligence  ;  and  all  benevolent  characters  to  con- 
tribute their  mite. 

"  Naturalists  have  been  accustomed  to  destroy  vicious  insects,  by 
employing  their  natural  enemies  to  devour  them. 

"  We  are  unacquainted  with  any  tribe  of  insects  able  to  destroy 
the  curculio.  All  the  domestic  animals,  however,  if  well  directed, 
contribute  to  this  purpose.  Hogs,  in  a  special  manner,  are  qualified 
for  the  work  of  extermination.  This  voracious  animal,  if  suffered 
to  go  at  large  in  orchards,  and  among  fruit  trees,  devours  all  the 
fruit  that  falls,  and  among  others  the  curculiones,  in  the  maggot 
state,  which  may  be  contained  in  them.  Being  thus  generally  des- 
troyed in  the  embryo  state,  there  will  be  few  or  no  bugs  to  ascend 
from  the  earth  in  the  spring,  to  injure  the  fruit.  Many  experienc- 
ed farmers  have  noted  the  advantage  of  hogs  running  in  their 
orchards.  Mr.  Bordley,  in  his  excellent  c  Essays  on  Husbandry? 
takes  particular  notice  of  the  great  advantage  of  hogs  to  orchards  : 
and  although  he  attributes  the  benefits  derived  from  these  animals 
to  the  excellence  of  their  manure,  and  their  occasional  rooting  about 
the  trees,  his  mistake  in  this  trivial  circumstance  does  by  no  means 
invalidate  the  general  remarks  of  this  acute  observer.  The  fact  is, 
hogs  render  fruits  of  all  kinds  fair  and  unblemished,  by  destroying 
the  curculio. 

"  The  ordinary  fowls  of  a  farm  yard  are  great  devourers  of  beetles. 
Poultry  in  general  are  regarded  as  carnivorous  in  summer,  and 
therefore  cooped  sometimes  before  they  are  eaten.  Every  body 
knows  with  what  avidity  ducks  seize  on  the  tumble  bug  (Scarabaus 
canufex))  and  it  is  probable  the  curculio  is  regarded  by  all  the  fowls 
as  an  equally  delicious  morsel.  Therefore  it  is,  that  the  smooth 
stone  fruits,  particularly,  succeed  much  better  in  lanes  and  yards, 
where  the  poultry  run  without  restraint,  than  in  gardens  and  othef 
enclosures,  where  the  fowls  are  excluded. 

k<  All  the  terebinthinate  substances,  with  camphor  and  some 
others,  arc  said  lobe  very  offensive  to  insects  generally.  Upon  this 
principle,  General  T.  ROBINSON,  of  Naaman's  creek,  suspends  an- 
nually little  bits  of  board,  about  the  size  of  a  case  knife,  clipped  in 
tar,  on  each  of  his  plum  trees.. ..From  three  to  five  of  these  strips 

T 


138  THE  VINEYARD.  [FEB. 

are  deemed  enough,  according  to  the  size  of  the  tree.  The  General 
commences  his  operations  about  the  time  or  soon  after  the  trees 
are  in  full  bloom,  and  renews  the  application  of  the  tar  frequently, 
while  the  fruit  hangs  on  the  tree.  To  this  expedeint,  he  attributes  his 
never  failing  success.  Other  gentlemen  allege,  that  common  tur- 
pentine would  be  still  better;  being  equally  pungent  and  more  per- 
manent in  its  effects.  Some  have  sown  offensive  articles,  such  as 
buckwheat,  celery,  &c.  at  the  root  of  the  tree,  and  have  thought  that 
great  advantages  followed, 

"  Ablaqueatirtn,  or  digging  round  the  trees,  and  making  bare  their 
roots  in  winter,  is  an  old  expedient  of  gardeners  for  killing  insects,  and 
may  answer  well  enough  for  a  solitary  tree,  a  year  or  two ;  but  the 
curculio  will  soon  recover  from  a  disturbance  of  this  sort,  and  stock 
the  tree  again. 

"  In  large  orchards,  care  should  be  taken  that  the  stock  of  hogs  is 
sufficient  to  eat  up  all  the  early  fruit  which  fall,  from  May  until 
August.  This  precaution  will  be  more  especially  necessary  in 
large  peach  orchards ;  for,  otherwise,  when  the  hogs  become  cloy- 
ed with  the  pulp  of  the  peach,  they  will  let  it  fall  out  of  their  mouths, 
and  content  themselves  with  the  kernel,  which  they  like  better  ; 
and  thus  the  curculio  escaping  from  their  jaws,  may  hide  under 
ground,  until  next  Spring. 

"  A  young  orchard  should  not  be  planted  in  the  place  of,  or  adjacent 
to  an  old  one,  that  it  may  not  be  immediately  infested  with  the  cur- 
culio. 

"  It  is  also  apparent  from  what  has  been  said,  that  great  advan- 
tages might  result  from  an  association  or  combination  of  whole 
neighbourhoods  against  this  common  enemy.  Although  an  intelli- 
gent farmer  may  accomplish  much,  by  due  attention,  within  his  own 
territory,  the  total  extermination  of  the  curculio  can  hardly  be  ex- 
pected but  by  the  concurrent  efforts  of  whole  districts." 

For  further  particulars  respecting  fruit-trees,  see  the  article 
Orc/iard  in  March. 


THE  VINEYARD. 

TO  the  preparatory  and  other  necessary  work,  recommended  in 
January  to  be  done  in  the  Vineyard,  page  41,  I  again  call  your  par- 
ticular attention  ;  if  it  is  put  off  till  March  you  will  then  find  the 
consequent  embarrassment  of  such  neglect;  therefore  let  every  pre- 
paration be  made  in  this,  as  well  as  the  last  month,  that  the  season 
\vill  admit  of. 

The  beginning  of  this  month  will  be  a  good  time  to  cart  manure 
into  the  Vineyard ;  laying  it  down  in  the  most  elevated  places  possible, 
for  the  ease  of  wheeling  it  on  barrows  down  among  the  rows  of 
vines ;  this  ought  to  be  perfectly  rotted,  and  of  a  quality  suited  to 
the  nature  of  the  soil ;  well  rotted  cow  dung  is  the  best  manure  for 


FEB.]  THE  VINEYARD.  139 

ground  of  a  very  hot  nature,  but,  if  very  cold  or  stiff,  which  ought 
to  be  as  much  avoided  as  possible  in  the  planting  of  a  Vineyard,  it 
may  be  improved  by  well  rotted  horse  dung  or  street  dirt ;  when 
these  cannot  be  had,  any  kind  of  well  incorporated  rich  compost 
or  other  manure  may  be  used. 

If  the  Vineyard  be  on  the  declivity  of  a  hill,  and  that  your  vines 
are  not  more  than  one,  two,  or  three  years  old,  scatter  a  good 
shovel-full  or  two  of  this  manure,  principally,  on  the  upper  side  of 
each  plant,  observing  that  none  of  it  reaches  within  six  inches  of 
the  stem ;  for  if  placed  close  thereto,  slugs,  worms,  and  the  em- 
bryos of  various  insects,  so  frequently  found  in  dung  and  other 
manure,  would  take  shelter  about  the  stock,  penetrate  down  along 
its  roots,  and  might  materially  injure  it  at  a  future  period.  But 
when  these  are  exposed  without  the  advantage  of  this  protection, 
to  the  severe  frosts  of  the  season,  the  greater  number  of  them  will 
be  destroyed  thereby. 

The  manure  so  placed,  its  nutritive  parts  will  be  washed  down  by 
rains,  and  the  whole,  by  the  necessary  culture,  will  ultimately  be 
brought  to  the  roots  of  the  plants.  When  the  Vineyard  happens 
to  be  on  level  ground,  scatter  the  manure  as  above,  equally  around 
the  plants. 

If  your  vines  are  four  years  old  or  more,  let  it  be  cast  all  over  the 
ground^  as  by  this  time  the  roots  will  be  extended  to  a  considerable 
distance  in  every  direction,  and  prepared  to  receive  nourishment  at 
all  points. 

Pruning  of  Vines  in  the   Vineyard. 

In  the  middle  states,  the  last  week  of  this  month  will  be  an  excel- 
lent time  to  prune  vines,  unless  it  should  happen  to  be  extremely 
severe  ;  in  which  case,  it  will  be  better  to  defer  the  pruning  for  a 
few  days  longer,  but  on  no  account  later  than  the  first  week  in 
March  ;  which  latter  period,  will  be  a  good  time  to  commence  that 
business  in  the  eastern  states,  allowing  there,  the  same  latitude  in 
similar  cases :  but  the  more  to  the  southward,  the  earlier  ought 
this  to  be  done,  for  if  deferred  till  the  sap  begins  to  ascend,  sericus 
evils  will  ensue  to  the  plants,  in  consequence  of  bleeding  too  cc- 
piously  from  the  wounds.  Let  it  be  observed  that  the  sap  begins 
to  rise  six  weeks  or  better,  before  the  bud?  expand  into  leaves. 

Such  plants  as  are  but  one  year  old  from  the  cuttings,  must  be  cut 
down  to  one  or  two  good  buds  each,  according  to  their  strength, 
always  cuttings  about  an  inch  above  the  bud  in  a  sloping  manner, 
and  on  the  opposite  side  thereto;  observing  that  the  lowermost  bud 
next  the  old  wood,  is  never  reckoned  among  the  good  ones. 

Such  of  these  young  plants  as  have  made  more  than  one  shcot 
last  season,  must  be  deprived  of  all,  by  cutting  them  off  as  close  as 
possible  to  the  old  wood,  except  the  strongest  and  best  placed  ; 
which,  prune  as  above  directed,  and  cut  off  such  part  of  the  old 
wood  close  to  this  shoot,  as  appears  above  it ;  in  order  that  the  bark 
may  grow  over  it,  and  the  stem  become  whole  and  sound. 

Your  two  years  old  plants,  must  be  similarly  treated,  with  this  dif- 
ference, that  you  may  leave  two  good  buds  to  each,  in  order  to 
form  as  many  strong  shoots  for  the  next  season. 


140  THE  VINEYARD.  [FEB. 

The  three  years  old  plants  must  be  headed  down,  to  two  good 
buds,  leaving  not  more  than  two  shoots  to  each  plant,  which 
will  produce  four  for  the  ensuing  season  ;  and  these,  if  the  plants  be 
in  good  health,  will  yield  fruit  very  handsomely  that  year. 

The  fourth  year  of  a  plant,  leave  it  three  of  the  best  shoots,  head- 
ing them  down  to  two  good  buds  each  ;  and  observe  to  cut  off  the 
extra  branches  close  to  where  they  were  produced,  and  in  like  man- 
ner any  decayed  wood,  as  well  as  the  spurs  or  stumps  occasioned  by 
last  years  pruning  :  by  which  treatment,  all  the  parts  will  get  co- 
vered with  bark,  and  the  stock  be  continued  in  health  and  vigour. 

According  as  your  vines  increase  in  age  and  strength,  you  may 
Jeave  from  four  to  eight  shoots  on  a  plant,  in  proportion  to  its  strength, 
each  headed  down  from  two  to  four  or  five  good  buds,  always  leav- 
ing the  greatest  number  of  buds  on  the  most  vigorous  shoots. 

When  a  vine  is  extremely  vigorous,  and  well  furnished,  you  may 
head  one  or  two  of  its  best  shoots,  at  the  height  of  three  or  four 
feet,  which  will  bear  an  abundance  of  fruit ;  but  the  others  must  be 
headed  down  to  two  or  three  buds  each,  in  order  that  they  may 
produce  good  wood  for  the  ensuing  years  bearing,  and  not  too  many 
fruit ;  for,  those  which  you  headed  so  high,  must  be  effectually  cut 
out  close  to  where  they  were  produced  in  the  next  pruning. 

Having  finished  your  pruning,  see  that  each  plant  has  a  good  firm 
gtake.  to  support  the  young  shoots  when  produced  and  advancing  in 
growth,  and  if  it  be  vigorous  and  of  many  shoots,  a  second,  or  even 
a  third,  would  be  more  eligible. 

Some  inconsiderate  persons  may  think,  that  eight  are  too  few  for 
a  full  grown  vine ;  but  if  they  consider  that  the  eight  shoots  so 
pruned,  may  produce  on  an  average  twenty-four,  and  each  of  these 
bear  three  bunches  of  grapes,  making  in  all  sixty-two,  they  will 
probably  view  the  matter  in  a  different  point,  especially,  when  they 
consider  that  the  ground  occupied  by  this  plant,  is  no  more  than 
about  six  feet  square,  However  fond  people  may  be  to  see  their 
vines  bear  great  quantities  of  fruit,  the  overbearing  of  them,  espe- 
cially while  young,  and  indeed  at  any  period,  is  allowed  on  all  hands 
to  injure  them  materially. 

You  are  particularly  to  observe,  that  the  young  shoots  of  last 
summers  growth,  are  the  only  bearing  wood;  that  is,  they  produce 
new  shoots  which  bear  fruit  the  same  season  :  therefore,  if  you 
expect  a  regular  supply  of  grapes,  you  must  manage  your  plants  so 
as  to  have  an  annual  succession  of  new  wood,  which  you  cannot  ex- 
pect, if  the  vines  are  suffered  to  overbear. 

The  above  being  the  method  of  managing  vines  in  vineyards,  the 
heads  being  formed  near  the  ground,  which  is  the  present  practice 
jn  most  of  the  vine  countries  ;  I  shall  now  proceed  to  give  some  di- 
rections for  the  pruning  of  such  as  are  trained  against  walls, 
trellis's,  or  espaliers. 

Pruning  of  Vine$  against   Walls^  Trellis's  and  JEsflaliers. 

In  order  to  have  well  formed  espaliers  and  wall-vines,  &c.  you 
train  the  two  first  good  shoots  produced  by  the  plant,  horizon* 


FEB.]  THE  VINEYARD.  141 

tally,  one  to  each  side,  within  a  foot  or  a  little  better,  of  the  ground, 
and  continue  them  in  that  direction  from  year  to  year,  to  whatever 
extent  you  may  think  desirable. 

The  first  year  these  must  be  deprived  only,  of  the  decayed  wood 
on  the  extremities,  and  of  any  secondary  shoots  proceeding  from 
the  axillas  of  the  leaves,  unless  they  have  run  to  the  desired  extent : 
the  second  year  they  will  produce  shoots  form  the  joints,  which  are 
to  be  trained  either  upright,  serpentine  from,  or  fan  fashion,  accord- 
ing to  fancy,  at  the  distance  of  about  eight  inches  from  each  other  : 
the  third  year,  head  each  of  these  down  to  one  good  bud,  and  train 
them  up  as  before  directed  ;  the  fourth,  and  every  succeeding  year, 
make  choice  of  the  strongest  shoots,  say  every  third  one,  and  head  them 
down  to  from  ten  to  twenty  buds  each,  more  or  less,  according  to  the 
strength  of  the  mother  plant,  goodness  of  the  ground,  and  roundness  of 
the  wood,  but  ne\er  leave  wood  that  is  not  round,  for  such  seldom 
bears  fruit.  The  othe*  shoots  are  to  be  headed  down  to  one  or  two 
good  buds  each,  which  are  to  produce  young  wood  for  the  next 
years  bearing,  as  those  left  to  bear  this  season  must  be  cut  down 
next,  in  order  to  produce  a  succession  of  young  wood  ;  and  so  con- 
tinue in  their  management  from  year  to  year. 

When  you  meet  with  old  vines,  which  have  been  neglected,  and 
having  a  great  quantity  of  naked  wood,  as  is  generally  the  case,  cut 
them  down  near  to  the  ground,  and  they  will  not  fail  to  produce  you 
plenty  of  young  wood,  which  you  can  train  to  your  liking,  but  you 
will  have  no  fruit  for  that  year.  Or  you  may  cut  out  every  other 
branch,  leaving  the  old  ones  to  produce  fruit  that  season  ;  but  these 
must  be  cut  down  the  next  year,  in  order  to  produce  young  wocd, 
and  a  well  furnished  tree. 

When  arbours  are  to  be  formed,  of  grape-vines,  the  shcde  being 
as  much  an  object  as  the  fruit,  you  are  to  train  them  so  as  to  cover 
the  place  handsomely,  and  at  the  same  time  to  produce  as  much  and 
as  good  fruit  as  possible,  by  not  permitting  the  leading  branches,  or 
shoots,  to  croud  together,  but  to  spread  evenly  and  thin  over  the 
whole  place  :  this  must  be  done  by  judicious  pruning  and  careful 
training,  always  bearing  in  mind  the  preceding  general  directions. 

For  the  methods  of  propagating  and  planting  grape-vines,  and 
the  various  kinds  thereof,  see  the  Vineyard  in  March. 

SOUTHERN    STATES. 

This  will  be  a  principal  time  for  propagating  vines,  by  cuttings, 
layers,  8cc.  and  planting  vineyards  in  most  of  the  southern  states  j 
for  the  methods  of  doing;  which,  see  the  Vineyard  in  March. 


142  [FEB. 


THE  NURSERY. 

£?*  The  various  instructions  given  in  the  course  of  this  month, 
for  the  Nursery,  as  far  as  they  relate  to  work  which  is  to  be  done 
in  the  open  ground,  are  on  the  presumption  that  the  severe  winter 
frosts,  have,  towards  the  end  of  the  month,  disappeared,  and  that 
the  ground  at  that  time,  is  in  a  fit  state  for  cultivation  ;  at  least  suf- 
ficiently so,  for  the  reception  of  plants  of  a  very  hardy  nature,  and 
such  as,  if  planted,  could  receive  no  injury  whatever,  from  any  sub- 
sequent frost  or  severity  of  weather,  and  that  will  succeed  better  by 
taking  the  earliest  possible  advantage  of  the  season :  moreover,  it 
is  the  better  way  to  have  as  much  of  your  business  done  at  as  early 
a  period  as  possible,  the  better  to  enable  you  to  meet  the  great 
pressure,  which,  with  respect  to  planting,  sowing,  grafting,  8cc.  8cc. 
must  be  attended  to  in  March. 

But  when  the  weather  in  the  latter  end  of  this  month  is  severe,  or 
the  ground  bound  up  by  frost,  there  is  no  alternative,  but  to  defer 
the  business  till  the  arrival  of  a  more  favourable  period. 

Propagating  by  Cuttings,  fcr'c. 

Plant  cuttings  of  gooseberries  and  currants,  according  to  the  rules 
laid  down  in  next  month  and  in  October  ;  these  will  form  tolerable 
branchy  heads  by  the  end  of  summer,  and  will  produce  fruit  in  a 
year  or  two  after. 

Be  careful  to  train  these  trees  always  with  a  single  stem,  six  or 
eight,  to  ten  or  twelve  inches  high,  before  you  form  the  head. 

Plant  also  cuttings  of  honey-suckels,  and  other  hardy  flowering 
shrubs  and  trees  ;  as  many  different  sorts  may  be  propagated  by  that 
method. 

The  cuttings  must  be  shoots  of  the  former  year's  growth  :  choose 
such  as  have  strength,  cutting  them  from  the  respective  trees  and 
shrubs  in  proper  lengths  ;  or  long  shoots  may  be  divided  into  two 
or  more  cuttings,  which  should  not  be  shorter  than  eight  inches, 
nor  much  longer  than  twelve.  Plant  them  in  rows  two  feet 
asunder,  at  six  or  eight  inches  distance  in  the  row,  putting  each 
cutting  two  thirds  of  its  length  into  the  earth. 

Most  kinds  which  are  thus  planted  now,  will  be  well  rooted  by 
next  October. 

Propagating  by  Suckers. 

Many  kinds  of  trees  and  shrubby  plants,  furnish  abundance  of 
suckers  from  the  roots  for  propagation,  particularly  robinia's  rose?, 
lilac's,  syringa's,  and  many  other  hardy  kinds  :  the  suckers  may 
now  be  separated  from  the  parent  plants,  each  with  some  roots,  and 
planted  either  in  nursery  rows  for  a  year  or  two,  or  the  largest,  at 
ence,  where  they  are  to  remain. 


FEB.]  THE  NURSERY.  143 


Propagating  by  Layers. 

The  latter  end  of  this  month,  you  may  make  layers  of  all  such 
shrubs  and  trees  as  are  increased  by  that  method :  though  the  best 
time  to  do  this,  is  between  the  first  of  October  and  end  of  November, 
but  where  it  was  omitted  at  that  period  it  may  now  be  done,  and 
most  kinds  will  still  succeed. 

In  making  layers  of  any  kinds  of  trees  or  shrubs,  observe  to  dig 
round  the  plant  that  is  to  be  layed,  and,  as  you  go  on,  bring  down 
the  shoots  or  branches  regularly,  and  ley  them  along  in  the  earth, 
with  their  tops  above  ground,  fastening  them  securely  there  with 
hooked  pegs,  and  then  let  all  the  young  shoots  on  each  branch  be 
neatly  layed,  and  cover  them  five  or  six  inches  deep  with  earth, 
leaving  the  top  of  each,  three  or  four,  to  five  or  six  inches  out  of  the 
ground. 

It  may  be  of  advantage,  in  laying  some  of  the  more  hard-wooded 
kinds,  to  gash  or  slit  the  layers  an  inch  or  better  by  an  upward  cut 
on  the  under  side,  as  intimated  in  the  Nursery,  page  53. 

Most  kinds  of  layers,  which  are  now  layed,  will  be  tolerably 
well  rooted,  and  fit  to  be  transplanted  by  next  autumn,  some  not  till 
the  second  year  :  but  for  general  instructions,  see  the  Nursery  in 
October. 

Transplanting  Layers. 

Take  off  the  layers  of  such  hardy  shrubs  and  trees  as  were  layed 
down  last  year,  and  which  still  remain  on  the  stolls. 

Let  these  layers,  as  soon  as  they  are  taken  off,  be  trimmed  and 
planted  in  rows  in  an  open  situation,  two  feet  or  more  asunder, 
according  to  the  size  of  the  plants  ;  and  the  plants  about  twelve  or 
fifteen  inches  distant  in' the  rows. 

Pruning,  &c. 

Should  the  weather  permit,  you  ought,  towards  the  latter  end  of 
the  month,  to  dig  the  ground  between  the  rows  of  your  nursery 
trees  and  shrubs  ;  first  giving  them  such  necessary  pruningas  may 
be  wanted  ;  but  if  the  ground  is  then  bound  up  with  frost,  you  may 
perform  the  latter,  and  defer  the  former  work,  till  the  frost  is  away, 
which  then,  must  be  done  without  delay,  especially  where  the 
ground  is  tolerably  dry. 

Trim  up  the  stems  of  such  young  hardy  fruit  and  forest  trees,  as 
require  it,  especially  the  deciduous  kinds,  and  also  prune  off  all  disor- 
derly rambling  shoots,  so  as  to  bring  them  into  a  neat  and  handsome 
form. 

Prune  also  the  hardy  flowering  shrubs  in  Nursery-rows,  whereby 
to  regulate  any  disorderly  growths,  and  to  give  them  a  becoming 
appearance. 

In  doing  this  work,  it  would  generally  be  proper  to  prune  or  train 
the  young  plants  mostly  to  short  single  stems  below ;  and  where 
the  heads  of  any  shrubs  are  very  irregular,  or  run  out  in 


144  THE  NURSERt.  [NIB, 

rambling  shoots,  let  them  be  reduced  to  some  order  and  form,  by 
cutting  out  or  shortening  such  as  may  require  any  regulation, 
whereby  to  form  a  somewhat  orderly  shape  in  the  general  head. 
Likewise  suckers  arising  from  the  roots  should  generally  be  cleared 
off;  and  if  carefully  detached  with  some  roots  to  each,  the  best  of 
them,  if  wanted,  may  be  planted  in  nursery  rows  at  proper  distances ; 
they  will  make  good  plants  in  two  or  three  year's  time ;  and  the 
mother  plants  being  cleared  therefrom,  will  be  preserved  in  a  more 
regular  proper  growth. 

After  the  above  occasional  pruning,  let  the  ground  be  dug  between 
the  rows  of  the  continuing  shrubs,  if  not  done  before  ;  digging  it 
one  spade  deep,  in  a  neat  regular  manner,  to  remain  in  good  culti- 
vated order  all  the  spring  and  ensuing  summer. 

Sowing-  Stones  to  raise  Stocks  for  Grafting,  &c. 

As  early  as  possible  this  month,  sow  the  stones  of  plums,  peaches, 
nectarines,  apricots  and  cherries,  &c.  which  were  preserved  in  sand 
or  earth,  from  the  time  of  the  fruit  being  ripe  till  this  period  ;  for 
unless  they  were  preserved  in  this  way,  few  of  them  will  grow  ; 
these  may  either  be  sown  in  drills,  or  broad  cast  in  a  bed,  and 
covered  from  an  inch,  to  two  inches  deep,  according  to  the  light- 
ness of  the  soil  and  the  proportionate  size  of  the  stones.  I  am 
by  no  means  an  advocate  for  covering  seeds  of  any  kind  too  deep> 
never  having  had  good  success  from  such.  If  the  above  sorts  are 
covered  but  lightly,  they  will  easily  grow  through  it,  and  when  up, 
you  can  refresh  them  by  sifting  fresh  earth  over  them  if  in  beds, 
and  if  in  drills,  by  drawing  it  to  their  stems. 

Sowing  Haws  for  the  raising  of  Thorn-quicks. 

Having  collected  a  sufficiency  of  fruit,  of  the  various  kinds  of 
hawthorn  which  you  desire  to  propagate,  the  autumn  twelve  months 
previous  to  the  time  of  sowing,  which  is,  as  early  in  spring  as  it  is 
possible  to  get  the  ground  in  a  good  state  of  culture  to  receive  them  ; 
proceed  to  sowing  as  hereafter  directed. 

When  you  collect  these  seeds  in  autumn,  mix  them  with  equal 
quantities  of  light  sandy  earth,  and  lay  them  in  that  state  on  the  sur- 
face of  a  dry  spot  of  ground  in  your  best  enclosed  garden,  where  they 
cannot  be  disturbed  by  hogs,  Sec.  form  this  mixture  into  a  narrow 
sloping  ridge,  tapering  to  the  top,  and  cover  it  with  light  loose  earth 
two  inches  thick  all  over  ;  the  April  following  turn  this  ridge,  mix- 
ing the  whole  together,  and  form  it  again  in  the  same  way,  covering 
in  like  manner  as  before,  with  two  inches  deep  of  light  loose  earth  ; 
repeat  this  again  in  the  months  of  July  and  August,  by  which  the 
seeds  in  every  part  will  be  equally  prepared  for  vegetation.  A 
trench  must  be  cut  round  this  ridge  to  prevent  any  water  from 
lodging  about  the  seeds  ;  for  this  would  rot  many  and  injure  others, 
especially  in  the  second  winter,  when  the  stones  would  be  loos- 
ing their  cementing  quality,  and  begin  to  open  ;  for  until  this  is 


J-EB.J  THE  NURSERY.  145 

effected,  the  kernels  cannot  vegetate.  Hence  the  necessity  and  great 
advantage  of  not  burying  the  stones  in  the  earth,  as  injudiciously 
practised  by  many  ;  for  if  so  treated,  they  would  not  have  the  advan- 
tage destined  by  nature  for  their  due  preparation,  and  would  labour 
under  many  other  disadvantages,  as  hereafter  noticed. 

It  is  well  known,  that  many  kinds  of  seeds,  when  buried  in  the 
earth,  below  the  power  of  vegetation,  remain  in  an  inactive  state  for 
several  years,  even  thos£  whose  nature  it  is  to  vegetate  the  first 
season,  when  properly  exposed ;  how  much  more  so  must  it  be, 
with  seeds  of  such  tardy  vegetation  as  haws,  and  many  other 
sorts :  but  by  being  thus  exposed  to  the  influence  of  the  sun  and 
air,  and  frequently  turned  as  before  directed,  all  become  equally  and 
sufficiently  prepared,  and  will  not  fail,  when  sowed  in  due  season 
and  suitable  soil,  to  reward  the  judicious  cultivator  with  an  abund- 
ant crop. 

When  those  seeds  are  buried  deep,  and  not  mixed  with  a  due 
quantity  of  earth,  as  before  observed,  they  are  subject  to  ferment 
too  powerfully,  and  also  to  be  injured  by  too  much  wet,  and  will 
never  be  found,  more  especially,  when  large  quantities  of  them  are 
together,  to  vegetate  equally  ;  those  near  the  surface,  and  sides  of 
the  pit,  doing  tolerably  well ;  some  of  the  others  not  growing  until  a 
full  year  after  being  sowed,  and  the  greater  number  not  at  all. 

There  is  not  the  least  danger  to  be  apprehended  from  frost 
injuring  the  seeds,  whilst  so  much  exposed  to  it  in  those  ridges  ; 
however,  it  will  not  be  amiss  to  strew  a  light  covering  of  long  litter 
over  them,  on  the  approach  of  winter ;  which  will  keep  them  dry,  and 
consequently  in  a  better  state  for  sowing,  when  the  season  arrives. 

The  above  mode  of  preparation,  is  the  result  of  the  Author's  ex- 
perience, for  upwards  of  twenty  years  ;  being  in  the  habit  of  raising 
several  millions  of  thorn  quicks  annually. 

Your  haws  being  prepared,  as  above,  make  ready  a  piece  of  good 
rich  ground,  neither  upon  an  elevated  situation,  nor  too  low  ;  in  the 
former,  the  summer  drought  would  be  unfriendly,  and  in  the  latter, 
they  would  be  subject  to  mildew  :  this  must  be  done  as  early  in 
spring  as  you  can  get  the  ground  to  work  freely  and  pulverize  well ; 
for  the  haws  begin  to  throw  out  roots  at  a  very  early  periodr  and  if 
not  sown  at  this  time,  or  before,  a  great  number  of  those  roots  will 
be  broken  off  in  the  act  of  sowing,  and  thereby  totally  lost ;  the 
others  which  escape  this  accident,  having  their  radicles  extended 
on  the  surface,  penetrate  the  earth  at  the  extreme  points  of  those 
roots,  forming  right  angles  with  the  parts  already  produced,  by 
which  means  they  can  never  drive  up  the  seed-leaves,  with  as  much 
vigour  as  if  the  radicles  descended  immediately  in  a  perpendicular 
direction  from  the  stones  of  the  fruit ;  hence  the  necessity  of  early 
sowing. 

The  ground,  however,  must  not  be  wrought  while  wet,  or  at  least 
the  seeds  should  not  be  covered  with  wet  or  heavy  earth,  nor  too 
deep  ;  for  if  the  surface  should  cake,  or  become  stiff  in  consequence 
of  dry  weather  ensuing,  few  of  these  young  plants,  having  broad 
seed-leaves,  could  bear  up  through  it  j  therefore,  you  must  be  very 


146  THE  NURSERY,  [FEB. 

cautious  in  that  point,  and  if  the  earth  of  your  bed  is  not  light  and 
dry  enough  for  this  purpose,  you  must  carry  as  much  as  will  cover 
the  seeds  from  some  dry  compost  heap,  or  some  quarter  of  the 
garden  where  it  can  be  found  in  a  Suitable  condition. 

On  examining  your  haws,  if  you  find  the  earth  in  which  they  are 
mixed,  any  way  clogged  with  two  much  moisture,  so  that  the  parts 
and  seeds  would  not  separate  freely  in  the  act  of  sowing ;  mix 
therewith  a  sufficient  quantity  of  slack-lime,  or  wood-ashes,  to  ac- 
complish that  end. 

Having  every  thing  in  readiness,  and  your  ground  well  dug,  and 
raked  effectually  as  you  proceeded  in  the  digging,  still  presuming 
that  it  is  in  the  best  possible  state  of  preparation,  lay  it  out  into  four 
feet  wide  beds,  leaving  twelve  or  fourteen  inches  of  an  alley  be- 
tween each,  and  with  the  back  of  the  rake,  push  off  into  these  al- 
leys, about  three  quarters  of  an  inch  of  the  fine  raked  surface  of 
the  beds,  one  half  of  each  bed  to  the  one  side,  and  the  other  to 
the  opposite ;  this  done,  sow  your  haws  thereon,  earth  and  all  as 
they  had  lain,  so  thick  that  you  may  expect  a  thousand  plants  at 
least,  after  every  resonable  allowance  for  faulty  or  imperfect  seeds, 
(there  being  many  of  these,)  on  every  three  or  four  yards  of  your 
beds;  (I  have  often  had  that  number  upon  as  many  feet)  then  with 
a  spade  or  shovel,  cast  the  earth  out  of  the  alleys  evenly  over  the  beds, 
covering  the  seeds  not  more  than  three  quarters  of  an  inch  deep, 
and  not  more  than  half  an  inch,  if  the  earth  be  any  way  stiff;  after 
which,  rake  the  tops  of  the  beds  -very  lightly,  taking  care  not  to  dis- 
turb the  seeds,  in  order  to  take  off  the  lumps  and  to  give  a  neat 
appearance  to  the  work. 

The  busines  being  thus  finished  for  the  present,  should  you  at  a 
future  period  perceive,  especially  when  the  plants  are  beginning  to 
appear  above  ground,  any  stiffness  on  the  surface,  occasioned  by  dry 
weather,  give  the  beds  frequent,  but  gentle  waterings,  till  all  those 
innocent  prisoners  are  released  from  their  bondage,  after  which 
you  will  have  pleasure  and  profit  in  their  progress. 

But  this  is  not  all ;  the  whole  of  your  former  trouble  will  be 
totally  lost,  unless  you  are  particularly  careful  in  keeping  these 
beds  effectually  free  from  weeds,  from  the  moment  the  plants  appeal- 
above  ground,  till  they  are  fit  to  be  planted  in  hedge-rows,  and  even 
then,  until  they  have  arrived  at  a  sufficient  size,  not  to  be  injured 
by  such. 

It  was  an  old  practice,  to  sow  these  seeds  as  soon  as  ripe,  covering 
them  about  an  inch  deep ;  but  the  loss  of  the  ground  during  the 
long  period  in  which  they  lie  dormant,  the  trouble  and  expense 
of  weeding  them  all  that  time,  the  numbers  pulled  up  and  exposed 
to  animals  of  various  sorts,  and  I  may  say  the  exposure  of  the 
whole  to  mice,  squirrels,  See.  have  very  justly  induced  to  the 
abandonment  of  that  mode  of  culture. 

Indeed,  they  maybe  sown  with  considerable  safety,  the  November 
twelve  months  after  they  are  ripe,  being  previously  prepared  as 
before  directed,  there  is  no  impediment  in  their  way  at  that  season, 
but  their  long  exposure  to  the  depredations  of  micelle*  which  are 
extremely  fond  of  their  kernels  ;  as  to  frost  they  value  it  not. 


FEB.]  THE  NURSERY. 

However,  upon  the  whole,  I  prefer  the  early  spring  sowing,  and 
have  generally  practiced  it  with  the  best  success. 

Many  of  these  plants,  and  indeed  the  greater  numbers,  if  the 
ground  be  good,  will  be  fit  for  planting  into  the  face  of  ditches, 
the  autumn  or  spring  following,  and  the  entire  of  them  that  time  twelve 
months;  but  if  they  are  intended  for  forming  upright  hedges,  the 
strongest  of  the  year  old  plants,  must,  in  the  month  of  March,  or 
very  early  in  April,  be  drawn  out  of  the  seed  beds,  their  long  tap- 
roots cut  off,  so  as  to  shorten  them  to  the  length  of  five  or  six  inches, 
and  then  planted  into  nursery  rows,  about  two  feet  asunder,  and  the 
plants  to  be  about  six  inches  distant  in  these  rows  ;  having  there, 
two  or  three  years  growth,  they  will  be  in  prime  condition  for  that 
purpose  ;  the  remaining  plants  may  be  taken  up  the  spring  following, 
and  treated  in  the  same  way. 

It  often  happens  that  an  after  growth  of  young  plants,  arises  in  the 
seed-bed  the  second  year,  particularly  when  the  haws  have  not  been 
well  prepared,  these  seldom  come  to  any  thing;  but  if  you  pursue 
the  method  already  prescribed,  you  may  depend  on  a  good  and 
general  crop  the  first  year. 

The  various  kinds  of  haw-thorns  that,  on  account  of  their  spini- 
ness,  might  suit  for  live  hedges,  are  the  following;  all  being  indige- 
nous in  the  United  States,  except  the  first,  which  is  the  kind  princi- 
pally used  in  Europe  for  that  purpose. 

1.  Crateegus  Oxyacantha,  or  Common  European  Hawthorn,  or 
Whitethorn.     Leaves  obtuse  subtrifate  serrate. 

With  a  robust  trunk,  branching  from  the  bottom  upwards,  to  ten 
or  fifteen  feet  high,  the  branches  armed  with  spines,  leaves  obtuse, 
trifid  and  sawed,  with  numerous  clusters  of  flowers  from  the  sides 
and  ends  of  the  branches,  succeeded  by  bunches  of  dark-red  fruit, 
commonly  called  haws ;  flowers  two  styled,  sometimes  three  or 
four. 

2.  Crat&gus    coccinea,  or   Great  American  Hawthorn.     Leaves 
cordate-mate,  gash-angled,  smooth;  petioles  and   calyxes  glandular ; 
floivers  Jive-styled. 

This  rises,  when  detached,  to  the  height  of  near  twenty  feet, 
with  a  large  upright  trunk,  dividing  into  many,  strong,  irregular, 
smooth  branches,  so  as  to  form  a  large  head.  Leaves  large  and 
bending  backwards  ;  they  are  about  four  inches  long,  and  three  and 
a  half  broad,  having  five  or  six  pair  of  strong  nerves,  and  become  of 
a  brownish  red  in  autumn.  The  flowers  come  out  from  the  sides 
of  the  branches  in  umbels  or  large  clusters  ;  they  are  large,  make 
a  noble  show  early  in  May,  and  are  succeeded  by  large  fruit  of  a 
bright  scarlet  colour,  which  ripens  in  August  or  September.  The 
branches  are  marked  with  irregularly  scattered  dots,  thorns  axil- 
lary, stout,  spreading  very  much,  from  the  rudiments  of  the 
branches.  Peduncles  pubescent,  corymbed. 

3.  Cratagus   Crus  galli,  or  Cockspur  Hawthorn.      Leaves  sub- 
sessile,  glittering,  coriaceous ;  calytine  leaflets,  lanceolate  subserrate ; 
flo-vers,  two-styled. 

Stem  strong,  ten  to  fifteen  feet  high,  bark  of  the  stem  rough, 
^f  the  branches  smooth  and  reddish.  Leaves  lanceolate,  three 


THE  NURSERY.  [FEB. 

inches  long,  and  about  one  inch  broad  in  the  middle,  serrate,  of  a 
lucid  green,  alternate ;  at  many  of  the  joints  are  smaller  leaves  in 
clusters :  thorns  axillary,  very  strong,  two  inches  in  length,  and 
bending  like  a  cock's-spur.  Flowers  axillary,  in  roundish  clusters, 
generally  two  together,  petals  white,  with  a  blush  of  red.  Styles 
three.  Fruit  gloubular,  of  a  red  colour.  It  flowers  the  lartter  end 
of  May. 

4.  Cratagus   tomentosa,   or  Wolly-leaved   Hawthorn.      Leaves 
tvedge-form-ovate  serrate,  somewhat  angular,  -uillose  underneath. 

This  has  a  slender  shrubby  stem,  about  six  or  seven  feet  high, 
sending  out  many  irregular  branches,  armed  with  long  slender 
thorns.  The  flowers  are  small,  proceeding  from  the  sides  of  the 
branches,  sometimes  single,  and  at  other  times  two  or  three  upon 
the  same  peduncle,  having  large  leafy  calyxes,  and  being  succeed- 
ed by  small  roundish  fruit.  The  flowers  appear  the  latter  end  of 
May,  and  the  fruit  ripens  in  September. 

5.  Cratagus  cordata,  or  Maple-leaved  Hawthorn.  Leaves  cordate- 
ovate,  gash-angled,   smooth,  petioles   and  calyxes,    without  glands ; 
Jlowers  Jive-styled. 

This  rises  with  a  strong  woody  stem,  about  5  or  6  feet  high,  sending 
out  many  spreading  branches,  which  incline  to  a  horizontal  position. 
Leaves  different  in  form,  some  indented  at  the  petiole,  others  not ; 
they  are  generally  about  an  inch  and  half  long,  and  nearly  of  the 
same  breadth  in  the  middle,  ending  in  accute  points,  and  their 
borders  cut  into  several  acute  parts,  which  are  sharply  serrate ; 
they  are  of  a  bright  green,  and  stand  on  very  slender  petioles,  about 
an  inch  in  length.  The  branches  are  armed  with  a  few  pretty- 
long  slender  spines.  The  flowers  come  out  in  small  bunches  from 
the  sides  of  the  branches.  Stamens  eight.  Styles  four;  fruit 
round  containing  two  seeds. 

Branches  spotted  with  white ;  leaves  cut  into  three,  five,  or  seven 
segments,  accuminate,  the  size  of  birch-leaves.  Petiole  very  slen- 
der, shorter  than  the  leaves.  Corymb  compound.  Bractes  at  the 
base  of  the  peduncles,  solitary,  subulate,  very  small,  deciduous. 
Flowers  somewhat  smaller  than  the  European  hawthorn.  Teeth 
of  the  calyx  very  short,  obtuse,  falling  off  when  the  fruit  is  ripe. 
Styles  five.  Fruit  an  oblate  spheroid,  scarlet,  the  size  of  a  red 
currant ;  the  navel  loose,  naked.  Stones  five,  the  tops  filling  up 
the  navel,  and  naked.  It  flowers  the  last  of  the  genus. 

4.  Cratagus  pyrifolia,  or  Pear-leaved  Hawthorn.     Leaves  ovate- 
eliptic,  gash-serrate,  somewhat  plaited  and  hirt,  calyxes  a  little  villose, 
leaflets  linnear-lanceolate  serrate,  flowers  three-styled.    This  species  is 
sometimes  unarmed. 

5.  Crattgus  eliptica,  or  Oval-leaved  Hawthorn.     Leaves  eliptic, 
unequally  serrate  smooth,  petioles  and  calyxes  glandular,  fruit  globu- 
lar, Jive  seeded. 

6.  Cratagus  glandulosa,  or   Hollow-leaved    Hawthorn.     Leaves 
obovate-wedge-form,  angular  smooth  glittering  ;  petioles  stipules  and 
calyxes  glandular  ;  fruit  oval ;  Jive  seeded. 

This  has  very  stout  thorns.  It  flowers  in  May,  and  is  a  very 
beautiful  shrub. 


FEB.]  THE  NURSERY.  149 

7.  Cratxgus  fava,  or  Yellow  Pear-berried  Howthorn.    Leaves 
ovate  wedge-form,  angular  smooth  glittering ;  petioles,  stipules,  and 
calyxes,  glandular  ;  fruit  turbinate  ;  four  seeded. 

There  are  often  small  leaves  on  the  thorns,  which  in  this  and  the 
following  species,  are  slender,  and  a  little  bent  at  the  ends  ;  it 
flowers  in  May. 

8.  Crat&gus  parvifiora,  or  Gooseberry-leaved  Hawthorn.  Leaves 
tvedge-form-ovate  gashed  serrate  ;  calycine  leaflets  gashed  the  length 
of  the  fruit  ;  flowers  five  styled. 

This  is  of  humble  growth,  seldom  rising  more  than  five  or  six 
feet,  sending  out  a  great  number  of  branches,  which  are  interwoven, 
and  armed  with  very  long  slender  spines.  The  leaves  are  scarcely 
an  inch  long,  and  some  are  not  more  than  half  an  inch  broad,  but 
others  are  almost  as  broad  as  they  are  long  ;  they  are  serrate,  and 
have  very  short  foot-stalks.  The  flowers  are  produced  at  the  ends 
of  the  branches,  generally  one  coming  out  from  between  the  leaves, 
but  sometimes  there  are  two  or  three,  one  below  the  other  at  the 
axils  ;  they  have  large  leafy  calyxes,  much  longer  than  the  petals  ; 
they  are  small,  have  twelve  or  more  stamens,  and  four  styles.  The 
fruit  is  small,  and  of  an  herbaceous  yellow  colour  when  ripe. 

There  are  many  other  varieties  of  the  hawthorn,  in  the  United 
States ;  but  these  being  generally  unfurnished  with  spines,  are  not 
so  suitable  for  hedges  as  those  described.  Of  the  above,  the  first, 
second,  and  third  sorts,  where  they  can  conveniently  be  had,  are 
the  best  kinds  to  cultivate  ;  but  either  of  them  will  answer  that  pur- 
pose very  well.  The  cultivation  of  all  the  species  is  similar. 

For  further  particulars,  and  for  the  best  methods  of  planting 
hedges,  as  well  as  the  several  kinds  of  trees  and  shrubs  most  suita- 
ble for  them,  see  the  Nursery  in  March. 

Solving  various  kinds  of  hardy  Tree  and  Shrub  seeds,  which  require 
a  previous  Preparation. 

Ash,  hornbeam,  red  cedar,  mezereon,  juniper,  holly,  yew,  spin- 
dle-tree, bladder-nut,  and  Laurus's  of  various  kinds,  with  many 
others,  will  require  the  same  preparation  as  directed  for  haws  ;  they 
must  be  sowed  at  the  same  time,  and  covered  only  in  proportion  to 
the  size  of  their  seeds  ;  that  is,  the  smaller  seeds  will  require  not 
more  than  a  quarter  inch  of  covering,  and  the  larger,  from  half  to 
three  quarters  of  an  inch,  in  proportion  to  the  lightness  of  the 
soil.  Always  avoid,  at  this  season  particularly,  sowing  seeds  of  any 
kind  too  deep,  especially,  if  the  ground  is  of  a  heavy  binding  nature, 
or  too  wet  at  the  time  of  working  it. 

Sowing  Kernels  of  Apples,  Pears  and  Quinces. 

So  soon  as  you  find  the  ground  in  a  good  dry  state,  sow  the  ker- 
nels of  apples,  pears,  and  quinces,  to  raise  stocks  for  budding  and 
grafting  on  ;  the  sooner  that  this  can  be  done,  the  better.  It  will 
be  necessary  to  have  these  kernels  preserved,  either  in  sand  or 
earth,  from  the  time  they  were  taken  out  of  the  fruit,  till  the  time  of 


150  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [FEB. 

sowing  ;  or  to  take  them  at  that  time  immediately  fresh  out  of  the 
fruit ;  for  when  long  exposed  to  the  dry  air,  they  loose  their  vege- 
tative quality. 

Care  of  tender  and  young"  seedling  Trees  and  Shrubs. 

In  order  to  avoid  repetitions,  and  make  room  for  other  important 
matter,  I  refer  you  for  instructions  on  the  above  suject,  to  page 
52;  observing  that  the  same  care  and  management  recommended 
there,  will  be  necessary  during  the  whole  of  the  winter  months. 

By  one  nigts  neglect  at  this  season,  you  might  loose  what  cost 
you  the  labour  of  months ;  therefore  deligent  care  and  attention  is 
particularly  requisite  during  severe  weather. 

Hot -beds  for  solving  Tree  and  Shrub  seeds  in. 

Make  hot-beds  for  sowing  therein,  some  of  the  more  curious 
kinds  of  tree,  and  shrub  seeds.  These  are  to  be  made  as  directed 
for  cucumbers  in  page  4,  and  fully  as  substantial ;  sow  the  seeds  either 
in  pots  or  long  narrow  boxes,  covering  each  kind  with  light  dry 
earth,  in  proportion  to  its  size  ;  then  plunge  these  pots  and  boxes 
to  their  rims  in  the  earth  of  the  beds,  but  not  till  after  the  violent 
heat  has  passed  away ;  sprinkle  the  earth  in  these  pots  frequently 
but  very  lightly  with  water,  till  the  plants  are  up,  after  which  you 
may  give  it  in  proportion  to  their  apparent  necessity. 

Keep  the  beds  carefully  covered  at  nights,  and  in  desperately 
severe  weather ;  and  when  the  heat  declines  renew  it  by  adding  a, 
lining  of  fresh  horse  dung  to  the  sides  and  ends  occasionally. 

SOUTHERN    STATES. 

The  various  works  recommended  to  be  clone  in  page  52,  this 
month,  and  March,  in  the  Nursery  ;  may  be  now  practised  with  good 
success  in  Georgia  and  South  Carolina,  and  various  other  parts 
of  the  more  southern  states.  This  being  their  proper  period  for 
grafting,  I  refer  them  for  general  observations  and  instructions  on 
that  head,  to  the  work  of  the  Nursery  in  March. 


THE  PLEASURE,  OR  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

Hardy  annual  Flower -seeds. 

About  the  latter  end  of  this  month,  if  the  weather  is  mild  and  dry, 
you  may  sow  many  sorts  of  hardy  annual  fiower  seeds  in  borders, 
and  other  parts  of  the  pleasure-garden. 


FEB.]  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

The  sorts  proper  to  sow  at  this  time  are  larkspur  and  flos  Adonis, 
scarlet  pea,  sweet-scented  and  Tangier  peas,  candy-tuft,  dwarf 
lychnis,  Venus'  looking-glass,  Lobel's  catch-fly,  Venus'  navel- 
wort,  dwarf  poppy,  Nigella,  annual  sun-flower,  oriental  mallow, 
lavatera,  and  hawk-weed,  with  many  other  sorts. 

Some  of  these,  if  sown  now,  particularly  the  larkspur,  flos 
Adonis,  sweet  and  Tangier  peas,  will  flower  much  better,  than  if 
sown  at  a  later  period. 

All  the  above  seeds  must  be  sown  in  the  places  where  you  intend 
the  plants  to  flower,  in  beds,  borders,  pots,  &c.  They  must  not 
be  transplanted,  for  these  sorts  will  not  succeed  so  well  by  that  prac- 
tice. The  following  is  the  method  :.... 

The  flower  borders  having  been  previously  dug,  dig  with  a  trowel 
small  patches  therein,  about  six  inches  in  width,  at  moderate  dis- 
tances, breaking  the  earth  well,  and  making  the  surface  even  ;  draw 
a  little  earth  off  the  top  to  one  side,  then  sow  the  seed  therein, each 
sort  in  separate  patches,  and  cover  it  with  the  earth  that  was  drawn 
off,  observing  to  cover  the  small  seeds  near  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
deep,  the  larger  in  proportion  to  their  size  ;  but  the  pea  kinds 
must  be  covered  an  inch  deep  at  least. 

When  the  plants  have  been  up  some  time,  the  larger  growing- 
kinds  should,  where  they  stand  too  thick,  be  regularly  thinned  ;  ob- 
serving to  allow  every  kind,  according  to  its  growth,  proper  room 
to  grow. 

For  instance,  the  sun-flower  to  be  left  one  in  a  place  ;  the  orien- 
tal mallow,  and  lavatera,  not  more  than  three  ;  the  rest  may  be  left 
thicker See  May^  8cc. 

Plant  hardy  Herbaceous  Jibrous-rooted  Flowering  Perennials. 

Towards  the  end  of  the  month,  if  the  weather  be  mild  and  open, 
and  the  ground  dry,  you  may  plant,  where  wanted,  most  sorts  of 
hardy  fibrous-rooted  flowering  plants,  both  of  perrennials  and  bien- 
nials, such  as  Lobelia's,  Phlox's,  Dracocephalum's,  polyanthus's, 
primroses,  London-pride,  violets,  double  chamomile,  thrift,  gen- 
tian ella,  hepaticas,  and  saxifrage. 

Plant  also  rose-campion,  rockets,  catch-fly,  scarlet-lychnis,  double 
feverfew,  carnations,  pinks,  sweet-williams,  columbines,  Canterbury- 
bells,  monk's-hood,  Greek  valarian,  tree  primrose,  fox-glove, 
golden  rods,  perennial  asters,  perennial  sun-flowers,  holyhocks, 
French  honeysuckles,  and  many  others. 

In  planting  the  above,  or  any  other  sorts,  particularly  at  this 
early  period,  observe  to  preserve  balls  of  earth  about  their  roots, 
to  dispose  them  regularly,  and  intermix  the  different  kinds  in  such 
order  as  there  may  be  a  variety  of  colours,  as  well  as  a  regular  suc- 
cession of  flowers  in  every  part  during  the  flowering  season. 

Auriculas. 

The  choice  kinds  of  auriculas  in  pots  must  now  be  treated  with 
more  than  ordinary  care,  for  their  flower-buds  will  soon  begin  to 


152  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [FEB. 

advance ;  therefore  the  plants  should  be  carefully  defended  from 
frost  and  cold  heavy  rains. 

This  must  be  done  by  a  good  covering  of  glass  and  mats,  but 
every  mild  and  dry  days  the  plants  must  be  entirely  uncovered. 

Any  old  decayed  leaves,  should  be  picked  off  as  they  appear,  the 
earth  loosened  at  the  top  of  the  pots,  some  of  it  taken  out  and  re- 
placed with  good  fresh  compost  mould.  This  will  encourage  the 
pushing  of  young  roots,  from  immediately  under  the  leaves,  which 
will  greatly  strengthen  the  plants. 

Be  very  cautious  however,  not  to  force  those  plants  at  this  season, 
for  that  would  prevent  their  flowering  in  any  tolerable  perfection  ; 
all  they  require,  is  to  be  protected  from  severe  frost,  snow,  cutting 
winds  and  cold  rains,  they  are  to  have  no  bottom  heat  whatever 
nor  are  the  glasses  to  be  kept  close  in  any  kind  of  sun-shine,  that 
might  produce  a  strong  heat  in  the  frame ;  on  the  contrary,  they 
must  get  as  much  air  as  possible,  by  taking  the  glasses  off  every 
sunny  or  mild  day,  and  replacing  them  at  night  and  in  cold  weather ; 
and  when  you  cannot  take  them  totally  off,  raise  them  a  little  behind, 
or  slide  them  either  up  or  down,  at  every  favourable  opportunity. 
A  little  frost  will  not  do  them  much  injury,  especially,  until  their 
flower-buds  begin  to  appear,  but  after  that,  they  must  be  carefully 
protected  therefrom  :  cold  heavy  rains  is  their  utter  enemy  at  all 
times,  against  which,  you  must  carefully  guard. 

Sow  Auricula  and  Polyanthus  Seeds. 

Auricula  and  polyanthus  seed  may  be  sown  any  time  in  this 
month  ;  they  will  grow  freely,  and  the  plants  from  this  sowing  will 
rise  well.  The  seeds  may  be  sown  in  boxes,  or  large  pots  filled 
with  light  rich  earth,  and  covered  about  the  eighth  of  an  inch  deep  j 
then  place  the  pots  or  boxes  in  a  hot-bed  frame  at  work,  give  them 
frequent  but  light  sprinklings  of  water,  both  before  and  after  the 
plans  appear,  and  a  reasonable  proportion  of  air  at  favourable  oppor- 
tunities :  by  this  means,  you  will  have  a  fine  crop  of  seedlings, 
handsomely  advanced,  towards  the  beginning  of  May  ;  when,  after 
all  danger  from  frost  is  over,  (for  these  being  tenderly  raised,  would 
be  subject  to  injury  therefrom)  take  the  pots  or  boxes  out  of  the 
frame,  and  place  them  where  they  can  have  only  the  morning  sun 
till  ten  o'clock,  and  that  of  the  afternoon  after  five,  during  the  re- 
mainder of  the  summer.  The  mid-day  sun  you  must  carefully 
guard  against;  for  it  would  totally  destroy  your  plants. 

Snails  and  slugs,  being  utter  enemies  to  these  plants,  whilst  in  a 
seedling  state  ;  it  will  be  necessary,  BO  soon  as  you  sow  the  seeds, 
and  before  placing  the  pots  or  boxes  in  a  hot-bed,  or  under  the  pro- 
tection of  glasses  without  bottom  heat,  for  either  method  will  do ; 
to  make  lines  of  short,  coarse,  strong  hair,  about  half  an  inch  or 
better  in  diameter,  to  tie  round  each  pot  or  box,  immediately  under 
the  rim  ;  the  line  being  tied,  trim  the  long  loose  hairs  around  it 
with  a  pair  of  scissars,  to  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  length,  which  short 
prickly  hairs  will,  as  often  as  snails  or  the  like  approach  it,  in  the 
act  of  ascending  the  sides  of  the  pots  or  boxes,  prick  them,  cause 


FEB.]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  153 

them  to  change  their  course,  and  thereby  finally  protect  the  young 
plants  from  enemies,  which  would,  in  a  few  hours,  totally  eat  up  the 
finest  crops,  particularly  the  auriculas. 

Tulips^  Hyacinths^  Anemones  and  Ranunculus's. 

Defend  the  beds  of  the  more  curious  or  valuable  tulips,  hyacinths, 
anemones,  and  ranunculus's,  from  frost,vsnow,  and  cold  or  excessive 
rains ;  the  plants  will  now  begin  to  appear  above  ground ;  and  the 
beds  wherein  the  finest  of  these  flower-roots  are  planted,  should  now, 
where  intended,  and  if  not  done  before,  be  arched  over  with  hoops  ; 
and  in  frosty,  or  extremely  bad  weather,  let  mats  or  canvas  be  drawn 
over  them,  in  some  measure,  to  defend  the  advancing  flower-buds. 

This,  where  it  can  be  conveniently  done,  should  not  now  be 
omitted  to  the  choicer  kinds,  when  required  to  have  them  blow 
in  their  utmost  perfection ;  for,  although  they  are  hardy  enough, 
yet,  being  protected  in  their  early  flower-buds  from  inclement 
weather,  both  in  this  and  the  next  month,  the  blow  will  be  much  finer 
than  if  fully  exposed  ;  however,  this  care  is  not  necessary  for  the 
common  kinds,  either  in  beds  or  borders. 

The  early  anemones  and  ranunculus's,  which  were  planted  in 
September  or  early  in  October,  and  are  consequently  in  a  considerable 
state  of  forwardness,  will  still  require  greater  protection  than  such 
as  were  late  planted ;  for  the  rudiments  of  their  flowers  being  in  a 
somewhat  advanced  state,  would  be  greatly  injured,  if  too  much  ex- 
posed, especially,  to  the  great  extremes  of  our  mid -day  sun,  and  the 
severe  night  frosts  prevalent  at  this  season  ;  therefore  by  protecting 
them  carefully  from  the  rigour  of  the  one,  you  do  not  expose  them 
so  much  to  the  power  of  the  other  ;  but  when  both  are  suffered  to 
act  alternately  with  their  full  respective  force,  upon  these,  as  well  as 
upon  many  other  of  the  more  tender  kinds  of  flowers  and  esculents, 
a  disorganization  of  their  parts  is  the  immediate  consequence,  and  an 
untimely  death  their  ultimate  end.  This  is  a  "  golden  rule",  which 
ought  to  be  assiduously  observed,  with  respect  to  every  plant  that  is 
not  sufficiently  hardy,  to  bear  the  frosts  of  our  rigorous  winters. 

For  the  convenience  of  affording  all  the  above  choice  kinds,  a 
suitable  protection,  they  ought  to  be  planted  in  beds  of  rich  compost 
mould,  surrounded  with  a  hot-bed  or  other  temporary  frame  ;  with 
tanners  bark  or  other  protection  drawn  up  on  the  outsides  thereof,  all 
round,  as  high  as  the  upper  parts;  which  will  prevent  the  frost 
from  penetrating  and  injuring  the  plants  next  the  frame.  Over  this- 
frume,  you  can  lay  a  covering  of  boards  and  mats,  when  necessary^ 
or  if  you  have  not  mats,  straw  or  other  suitable  covering  may  be 
used.  Frost  will  enter  the  beds,  notwithstanding  this  kind  of  care, 
but  not  in  sufficient  force  to  do  much  injury,  for  these  plants  are 
tolerable  hardy,  and  require  only  to  be  protected,  from  its  too  pow- 
erful influence,  as  well  as  from  that  of  the  sun's. 

The  plants  must  be  exposed  to  the  full  air  constantly,  except 
while  freezing  sufficiently  strong  to  bind  up  the  earth,  and  at  night, 
or  during  the  prevalence  of  cold  heavy  rains  or  snow.  Such  of  the 
preceding,  and  other  hardy  bulbs,  &c.  as  yet  remain  out  of  ground, 


154  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [FEB. 

ought  to  be  planted  as  soon  as  possible  ;  observing  the  directions 
given  in  page  74,  Etc.  Anemones  and  ranunculus's,  if  carefully  pre- 
served, will  yet  succeed  very  well. 

Carnations  and  Pinks. 

Your  choice  carnations  and  pinks,  which  are  planted  in  pots,  and 
plunged  in  beds  under  the  protection  of  frames  and  coverings,  ought, 
for  the  present,  to  be  managed  in  every  respect,  as  above  directed 
for  the  protection  of  anemones,  ranunculus's,  Sec.  by  this  treatment, 
you  may  expect  to  be  rewarded  with  abloom  of  these  charming  flow- 
ers in  the  highest  degree  of  perfection. 

Towards  the  end  of  this  month,  if  the  weather  is  mild,  but  not 
otherwise,  you  may  transplant  such  as  were  raised  last  year  from 
layers,  into  large  pots  or  into  the  open  borders,  &c.  where  you  in- 
tend them  to  blow  ;  but  this  would  have  been  better,  if  done  in  au- 
tumn. Also  such  seedling  plants  as  were  raised  last  season,  may, 
under  similar  circumstances,  be  transplanted  into  any  beds  or 
borders  which  are  ready  for  their  reception,  always  observing,  to  re- 
move them  with  balls  of  earth  round  their  roots.  For  further  par- 
ticulars, see  next  month. 

Tender  Annuals. 

The  latter  end  of  this  month  will  be  a  suitable  period,  for  prepar- 
ing to  sow  some  of  the  more  valuable  and  curious  sorts  of  tender 
annuals  ;  such  as  the  fine  kinds  of  double  balsams,  tricolors,  me- 
sembryanthemums  or  ice  plants,  browallia's,  sensitive  plant,  Ipo- 
mcea  Quamoclit,  and  many  others. 

Therefore,  provide  some  new  horse-dung,  and  let  it  be  thrown  up 
in  a  heap,  and  in  eight  or  ten  days  it  will  be  in  good  condition  to 
make  the  bed.  Let  this  be  made  about  three  feet  high  of  dung,  le- 
velling the  top,  and  then  set  on  the  frame  and  glasses.  When  the 
burning  heat  is  over,  lay  on  the  earth,  observing  that,  for  this  use, it 
must  be  rich,  light,  and  perfectly  dry,  and  broken  pretty  small  by 
rubbing  it  between  the  hands  ;  the  depth  of  earth  on  the  bed  must 
be  about  five  or  six  inches,  making  the  surface  level  and  smooth. 

The  seed  may  either  be  sown  on  the  surface,  observing  to  sow 
each  sort  separate,  covering  them  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch,  or 
rather  less,  with  light  earth  ;  or  you  may  draw  some  shallow  drills 
with  your  finger,  from  the  back  to  the  front  of  the  bed,  sow  the 
seeds  therein,  and  cover  as  above  ;  or  you  may  sow  them  in  pots, 
and  plunge  these  into  the  earth  of  the  hot-bed.  But  if  you  intend 
sowing  in  pots,  and  that  you  have  the  convenience  of  tanner's  bark, 
lay  on  eight  or  nine  inches,  or  a  foot  deep  of  it  all  over  the  bed  in 
place  of  the  earth,  to  plunge  your  pots  therein  ;  in  which  case  two 
and  a  half  feet  deep  of  dung  will  be  sufficient. 

As  soon  as  the  plants  appear,  admit  fresh  air  to  them  every  day 
when  the  weather  is  any  way  mild ;  and  let  them  have,  now  and 
then,  gentle  sprinklings  of  water.  Mind  to  cover  the  glasses  every 
night,  and  in  bad  weather  with  mats ;  or  if  boards  are  first  laid  on, 
and  then  covered  with  mats,  they  will  afford  an  additional  protection. 


*EB.]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  155 

But  in  raising  the  above  annuals,  if  it  is  required  to  be  saving  of 
hot  clung  and  trouble,  and  that  there  are  cucumber  or  melon  hot- 
beds at  work,  you  may  sow  them  in  pots,  ancj  place  them  in  these 
beds  to  raise  the  plants  ;  which,  may  afterwards  be  transplanted  or 
pricked  into  other  pots  in  the  same,  or  into  a  nursery  hot-bed,  to 

forward  them  to  a  proper  size For  the  further  management  of 

these  plants,  see  March  and  Afiril. 

Sowing1  Ten-week  Stock  and  Afigncnette. 

The  ten-week  stock  is  a  beautiful  annual ;  none  makes  a  more 
agreeable  appearance  in  pots,  and  in  the  borders,  &c.  and  it  con- 
tinues a  long  time  in  blow.  The  mignonette  imparts  a  sweet  and 
agreeable  odour,  for  which  purpose  it  is  extremely  worthy  of  cul- 
tivation. 

When  these  plants  are  wanted  in  early  perfection,  the  seeds  of 
either,  may  be  sown  towards  the  end  of  this  month,  in  a  slight  hot- 
bed, or  in  a  very  warm  border,  to  be  covered  with  a  frame  and 
glasses ;  but  by  sowing  the  seed  in  the  former,  it  will  bring  the 
plants  on  much  sooner,  though  in  the  latter  they  will  be  tolerable 
early,  and  being  raised  in  a  more  hardy  manner,  may  be  planted 
out  into  the  borders  with  better  success  ;  yet,  when  they  are  wanted 
for  an  early  blow  in  pots,  the  hot-bed  is  preferable. 

Sow  the  seeds  either  in  pots,  or  on  the  surface  of  the  bed,  cover- 
ing them  with  light  dry  earth  about  the  eighth  of  an  inch  deep 
or  a  little  better,  and  give  them  gentle  occasional  waterings  and  the 
necessary  protection  from  the  inclemencies  of  the  weather,  and 
plenty  of  air  at  proper  opportunities.  Towards  the  latter  end  of 
April,  these  may  be  planted  into  the  open  borders,  or  wherever 
they  are  destined  to  remain,  with  good  success.  The  mignonette 
being  very  impatient  of  transplanting,  ought  to  be  taken  up,  with 
as  much  earth  as  possible  round  the  roots,  and  so  transplanted  with 
particular  care. 

But  if  your  plants  stand  thick  in  the  seed-bed,  some  of  them,  \vhen 
they  have  been  up  about  three  or  four  weeks,  or  when  about  an  inch 
high,  may  be  pricked  out,  either  into  a  slight  hot-bed,  which  will 
forward  them  considerably,  and  some  into  small  pots  to  be  placed 
therein,  three  plants  in  each  ;  others  may  be  planted  on  a  warm  bor- 
der, three  inches  asunder,  and  covered  with  hand  glasses  ;  after  they 
have  stood  a  month,  all  those  not  potted  should  be  planted  where 
they  are  to  remain. 

Stockgilly -flowers  and   Wall -flowers. 

The  choice  double  and  other  stockgilly-flowers  and  wall-flowers, 
which  you  have  in  pots,  and  under  the  protection  of  any  kind  of  co- 
vering, should  never  be  exposed  to  a  strong  sun,  whilst  in  a  frozen 
state ;  they  will  stand  the  winter  with  very  little  protection  from 
frost,  but  must  be  carefully  guarded  against  the  sun's  influ- 
ence at  such  times. 


156  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [FER 


Forcing  early  Flowers. 

Where  early  flowers  are  required,  either  for  ornament  or  for 
sale,  you  must  prepare  for  this  business  in  October^  and  then  plant, 
in  suitable  sized  pots,  the  various  kinds  that  you  intend  to  force  ; 
such  as  carnations,  pinks,  sweet-williams,  double  daisies,  and  other 
fibrous  rooted  plants.  The  earliest  kinds  of  hyacinths,  van-thol  and 
other  early  ulips,  anemones,  ranunculus's,  jonquils,  narcissus's  of 
sorts,  dwarf  Persian  iris's,  crocus's  in  different  varieties,  and  many 
other  kinds  of  early  flowering  bulbs,  having  been  protected  in  a 
suitable  manner,  as  heretofore  directed ;  you  may,  about  the  begin-  - 
ning  of  this  month,  plant  these  pots,  or  such  of  them  as  you  wish 
to  force  for  the  earliest  bloom,  in  any  forcing  department  now  at 
work,  such  as  hot-houses,  forcing-houses  of  any  kind,  hot-beds, 
&c.  By  plunging  the  pots  into  the  bark-pits  or  hot-beds,  you  will 
have  them  to  flower  the  sooner.  As  the  hyacinths,  carnations  and 
pinks  advance,  tie  their  flower  stems  to  neat  sticks,  or  to  pieces  of 
painted  wire  stuck  into  the  pots  for  that  purpose. 

•You  may  likewise  force  pots  of  roses,  honey -suckles,  jasmins, 
double  flowering  almonds,  thorns,  cherries  and  peaches,  and  also 
any  other  early  flowering  and  desirable  plants,  by  the  same  means. 

Either  of  the  preceding  kinds  may  be  forced,  in  board  forcing- 
frames,  with  the  assistance  of  hot  dung  applied  to  the  back  and 
ends  thereof ;  these  being  constructed  of  strong  inch  and  half,  or 
two  inch  plank,  made  eighteen  inches  high  in  front,  and  five  or  six 
feet  high  in  the  back,  the  ends  in  proportion,  and  length  at  plea- 
sure. The  width  to  be  five  or  six  feet,  and  the  whole  covered  with 
sloping  glasses. 

Having  such  a  frame  in  readiness,  fill  the  inside  thereof,  to  a 
level  with  the  front,  with  fresh  tanner's  bark,  into  which  to  plunge 
your  pots  ;  or  if  you  have  not  the  convenience  of  bark,  sink  a  pit 
into  the  earth  about  eighteen  inches  deep,  which  fill  to  the  surface 
with  fresh  horse-dung  ;  place  the  frame  thereon,  and  add  more 
dung  till  it  reaches  within  six  inches  of  the  upper  part  of  the  frame 
in  front ;  then  fill  the  remainder  to  that  level  with  good  dry  earth. 

In  either  case,  plunge  the  pots  to  their  rims  in  the  bark  or  earth, 
and  add  a  lining  of  good  horse-dung  to  the  back  and  ends  of  the 
frame,  to  its  entire  height,  which  will  produce  a  strong  growing 
heat  in  the  inside,  sufficient  for  any  purpose  of  forcing  small  plants. 
The  glasses  being  placed  on  this  kind  of  frame,  with  a  considerable 
degree  of  elevation,  will  receive  the  rays  of  the  sun  in  a  more  direct 
manner,  than  if  not  elevated  so  much,  by  which  means  more  heat 
will  be  accumulated. 

Shelves  may  be  erected  in  this  kind  of  frame,  towards  the  back 
part,  if  the  plants  intended  to  be  forced  are  not  large,  and  the  lining 
can  be  renewed  as  often  as  necessary. 


FEB.]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  157 


Dress  and  dig  the  Borders,  Beds^  &c. 

When  the  weather  permits,  let  the  flower  beds  and  borders,  in 
general,  be  thoroughly  cleared  from  weeds,  and  from  every  kind 
of  litter  ;  for  neatness  in  those  parts  of  the  garden  is  agreeable  at 
all  times,  but  more  particularly  at  this  season. 

Therefore,  let  the  surface  of  the  beds  and  borders  be  lightly  and 
carefully  loosened  with  a  hoe,  in  a  dry  day,  and  let  them  be  neatly 
raked ;  which  will  give  an  air  of  liveliness  to  the  surface,  and  the 
whole  will  appear  neat  and  very  pleasing  to  the  eye,  and  well  worth 
the  labour. 

Likewise  if  any  borders,  beds,  &c.  were  not  dug  last  autumn  or 
winter,  it  should  now  be  clone,  ready  for  the  reception  of  flower 
plants,  seeds,  &c.  and  that  the  whole  may  appear  fresh  and  neat. 

Prune  Flowering- Shrubs. 

Finish  pruning  the  hardy  deciduous  flowering  shrubs,  where 
wanted.  In  doing  this  work,  observe  to  cut  out  all  dead  wood  ;  and 
where  any  of  the  branches  are  too  long,  or  grow  straggling,  let 
them  be  shortened,  or  cut  off  close,  as  you  shall  see  necessary ;  and 
likewise,  where  the  branches  of  different  shrubs  interfere,  or  run 
into  each  other,  shorten  them,  so  that  each  may  stand  singly,  and 
clear  of  another;  then  all  the  different  shrubs  will  show  themselves 
distinctly  and  to  the  best  advantage. 

When  the  shrubs  are  pruned,  let  the  cuttings  be  cleared  away, 
and  the  ground  be  neatly  dug  between,  and  about  all  the  plants, 
observing  to  take  off  all  suckers  arising  from  the  roots.  Nothing 
looks  better  in  a  shrubbery  than  to  see  the  ground  neat  and  fresh 
between  the  flowering  shrubs  and  ever-grf.ens,  &c.  especially  in 
such  clumps  and  other  compartments  where  the  shrubs  stand 
distant. 

But  as  sometimes  particular  parts  of  a  shrubbery  are  on  some 
occasions  required  to  form  a  close  thicket,  in  that  case  very  little 
pruning,  or  digging,  &c.  is  wanted. 

Care  of  Grass   Walks  and  Lawns. 

Grass  walks  and  lawns  should  be  kept  extremely  clean ;  in  dry 
weather,  as  soon  as  the  greater  winter  frost  is  over,  roll  them  with 
a  heavy  roller,  to  settel  the  earth  which  the  frost  had  hoved  up. 

Gravel  Walks. 

Keep  the  gravel  walks  perfectly  clean  and  free  from  moss,  weeds, 
or  litter  of  any  kind;  let  them  be  well  rolled,  to  settle  them  after 
the  winter  frost,  which  will  give  them  a  fresh  and  neat  appearance, 
and  render  them  comfortable  for  walking  on. 


158  THE  GREEN-HOUSE.  [FEB. 


SOUTHERN    STATES. 

This  is  a  very  proper  period  in  the  southern  states,  to  sow  annual, 
biennial  and  perennial  flower  seeds,  and  to  transplant  the  various 
kinds  of  fibrous  rooted  herbaceous  flowering-plants ;  to  plant  out 
into  the  borders  of  the  pleasure  grounds,  all  kinds  of  deciduous 
trees,  flowering  and  ornamental  shrubs ;  and  in  short,  to  perform 
all  the  other  works  directed  to  be  done  either  in  this  or  next  month, 
in  the  Pleasure  or  Flower-garden  compartments,  which  are  suitable 
in  that  climate. 


THE  GREEN-HOUSE. 

PARTICULAR  attention  ought  to  be  paid  to  the  Green-house 
plants  at  this  season,  in  order  to  give  them  occasional  waterings  and 
fresh  air,  and  if  severe  frost  should  prevail,  to  give  the  necessary 
protection. 

In  mild  weather,  they  will  require  refreshments  of  water  now 
and  then,  and  admission  of  external  air,  whenever  it  can  be  given 
with  safety :  though  all  should  enjoy  an  equal  benefit  of  the  latter, 
it  is  not  so  with  respect  to  the  former. 

Oranges,  lemons,  and  myrtles,  and  most  other  of  the  woody 
plants,  will  require  water  frequently  ;  but  never  give  them  much  at 
a  time,  and  to  none  but  where  absolutely  necessary. 

The  herbaceous  kinds  will  also  require  occasional  supplies  of 
water,  but  less  frequent,  and  in  less  quantities  than  the  woody 
tribe. 

Let  the  succulent  kinds,  such  as  aloes,  sedums,  mesembryanthe- 
mum's,  cactus's,  &c.  have  water  but  very  sparingly,  and  only  when 
the  earth  in  the  pots  is  very  dry. 

Examine  the  tubs  and  pots  separately,  to  see  which  want  water  ; 
let  none  be  given  but  where  necessary,  and  always  very  moderately  : 
a  little  will  be  serviceable,  but  too  much  would  be  of  bad  conse- 
quence at  this  season. 

Air  should  be  admitted  to  the  plants  at  all  times  when  the  weather 
is  favourable,  for  that  is  a  necessary  article  ;  they  cannot  thrive 
without  it,  nor  continue  in  a  healthful  lively  appearance.  Every 
day,  when  the  weather  is  mild,  let  some  of  the  windows  be  opened 
a  little  way,  for  the  admission  of  air,  and  take  care  that  they  are  shut 
.again  in  due  time. 

But  be  very  particular  not  to  admit  sharp  or  cutting  winds,  or 
frosty  air  into  the  green-house  at  this  season  ;  to  avoid  which,  you 
must  never  be  absent  while  the  windows  are  less  or  more  open : 


FEB.]  THE  GREEN-HOUSE.  159 

for  the  changes  of  weather  are  so  sudden,  that  a  few  hours  inatten- 
tion might  do  irreparable  injury  to  your  plants,  especially  to  the 
more  tender  kinds.  The  safest  method  now  of  admitting  air,  is 
by  sliding  down  the  upper  tier  of  your  front  windows,  less  or  more 
according  to  the  weather,  which  will  not  only  admit  the  fresh,  but 
discharge  any  foul  air  which  has  been  generated  in  the  house. 

In  frosty  weather,  keep  your  lights  all  close,  and  if  very  severe, 
defend  the  windows  at  nights.  If  you  have  roof-lights,  protect  them 
as  directed  in  January ',  page  79. 

Fires  may  also  occasionally  be  used,  and  indeed  are  indespensi- 
ble  at  times ;  but  these  ought  never  be  resorted  to,  except  when 
absolutely  necessary,  either  to  keep  out  the  frost,  or  to  dispel 
damps  ;  and  even  then,  you  are  to  be  very  cautious,  not  to  create 
thereby  too  strong  a  heat  in  the  house,  never  above  40  or  45°  of 
Fahrenheit's  thermometer ;  for  this  would  cause  your  plants  to  push 
and  get  into  a  fresh  state  of  vegetation,  which  would  be  extremely 
injurious  to  them  during  any  of  the  winter  months. 

Another  thing  to  be  regarded,  is  to  keep  the  plants  of  all  kinds 
free  from  casual  decayed  shoots  and  leaves,  for  those  are  not  only 
hurtful  to  the  plants  while  in  the  house,  but  appear  very  unsightly  ; 
therefore,  whenever  such  appear,  let  them  be  constantly  taken  off; 
keep  also  the  pots,  &c.  and  green-house  always  neatly  clean. 

The  latter  end  of  this,  or  any  time  next  month,  you  ought  to 
loosen  the  earth  in  the  top  of  the  pots  or  tubs  of  your  oranges, 
lemons,  and  other  plants  in  general,  and  take  out  about  and  inch 
deep  or  more,  adding  some  fresh  in  its  stead ;  this  will  prove  very 
beneficial  to  the  plants ;  and  whoever  will  bestow  that  little  dressing 
upon  them,  will  see  the  advantage  of  it  in  a  short  time. 

Your  pots  of  Cape  bulbs,  such  as  Ixia's,  Gladiolus's,  Lachenalia's, 
Morea's,  Watsonia's,  Lapeyrousia's,  Walchendorfia's,  Tritonia's, 
Antholiza's,  Cyanella's,  and  Oxalis  versicolor.  Babiana's,  Mas- 
sonia's,Geissorhiza's,Melanthium's,  and  Melasphserula's,  8cc.  which 
are  now  in  a  state  of  vegetation,  should  be  kept  all  towards  the 
front  of  the  house,  and  as  near  the  glasses  as  possible  ;  lest  they 
should  draw  up  weakly,  and  thereby  produce  but  indifferent  flowers. 

Hot-beds  for  raising  Green-house  Plants. 

Make  hot-beds  to  sow  tender  exotic  seeds  in,  observing  to  work 
the  dung  well,  turning  it  over  two  or  three  times  while  it  remains 
in  the  heap,  at  intervals  of  four  or  five  days  ;  make  the  beds  as  di- 
rected for  cucumbers,  page  4,  to  the  height  of  three  feet  six  inches  ; 
put  on  your  frames,  and  lay  eight  or  ten  inches  of  good  fresh  tan 
even  over  the  bed  ;  if  that  cannot  be  conveniently  had,  lay  on  six 
inches  of  dry  earth  ;  when  the  bed  comes  to  its  heat,  sow  your  seeds 
separately  in  pots,  and  plunge  them  into  the  tan,  or  earth ;  some  of 
these  will  not  vegetate  for  a  long  time,  and  others,  frequently  lie  in 
the  ground  a  whole  year.  When  the  heat  of  the  bed  is  on  the 
decline,  add  a  fresh  lining  of  hot  dung  as  directed  for  cucumber  and 
melon  beds.  Or  these  seeds  may  be  sowed  in  pots,  and  plunged 
j-ato  the  bark-bed  in  the  Stove. 


160  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  [FEB. 

Plant  cuttings  of  Geranium's,  Fuschia's,  Myrtles,  Hydrangea's, 
and  other  Green-House  plants  in  small  pots,  one  or  more  in  each, 
and  plunge  them  into  a  hot-bed ;  they  will  now  freely  strike  root 
and  be  fine  early  plants  ;  these  when  they  begin  to  grow  must  have 
plenty  of  air  occasionally,  and  be  carefully  protected  at  night  and  in 
severe  weather. 


THE  HOT-HOUSE. 

AS  most  Hot-houses  are  frequently  infested  with  various  kinds 
of  insects,  which  do  very  considerable  injury  to  the  plants,  it  may  be 
of  some  importance  to  give  a  description  of  these,  and  also  the 
most  effectual  methods  of  destroying  them. 

Of  the  Species  of  INSECTS  that  infest  the  PINE-APPLE  Plants. 

1.  THE  BROWN  TURTLE  INSECT.  Coccus  hesfieridum,  of  Linn. 
This  species  is  not  only  found  upon  the  pines,  and  most  other  plants 
which  grow  in  Hot-houses,  but  also  upon  many  plants  which  are 
in  Green-houses.  These  insects,  after  they  are  arrived  at  a  certain 
age,  fix  themselves  immoveably  to  the  leaves  of  the  plant;  but,  be- 
fore that  time,  though  they  generally  appear  motionless,  yet  on  a 
close  inspection,  in  a  very  warm  day,  many  of  them,  and  especially 
the  smaller  ones,  may  be  perceived  to  move  to  different  parts  of  the 
plant,  being  in  appearance  much  like  a  turtle  in  miniature. 

A  sweet  glutinous  matter  issues  from  these  insects ;  this  soon 
turns  mouldy,  and  in  time  becomes  quite  black,  which  causes  the 
plants  to  appear  very  unsightly.  But  as  these  insects  do  not,  in  any 
other  respect,  injure  the  pine  plants,  I  shall  pass  over  them,  and 
proceed  to  those  of  a  more  pernicious  nature. 

2.  THE  WHITE  SCALY  INSECT.  This  insect,as  far  as  lean  learn, 
has  hitherto  remained  undescribed ;  neither  Linnxus,  Geoffrey,  or 
Sch&fftr)  seem  to  have  known  it. 

This  species  is  very  nearly  allied  to  the  former,  both  of  them 
being  Cocci,  and  of  the  oviparous  kind  :  it  seems  to  be  exactly  si- 
milar to  it  in  its  manner  of  breeding,  the  process  of  which,  curious 
naturalists  have  observed  to  be  nearly  as  follows  :  The  eggs  which 
are  discharged  from  the  female,  are  pushed  forward  between  the 
skin  of  the  belly  and  the  leaf  of  the  plant,  to  which  the  insect  ad- 
heres ;  in  consequence  of  this,  the  skin  of  the  belly  becomes  less 
distended,  which  enables  the  insect  to  afford  a  large  covering  to  the 
eggs  already  excluded.  When  the  eggs  are  all  discharged,  the 
skin  of  the  belly  retreats  close  to  the  back  of  the  parent  insect, 
which  then  appears  like  a  mere  scale.  If  the  insect  in  this  state  be 
raised  with  the  point  of  a  needle,  from  the  leaf,  a  number  of  eggs 
may  be  perceived  under  it,  of  a  pale  red  colour,  and  very  transpa- 


FEB.]  THE  HOT-HOUSE. 

rent,  not  unlike  the  roe  (or  eggs)  of  fishes  ;  but  with  this  difference, 
that  they  are  not  connected  by  a  membrane,  but  loosely  packed  to- 
gether. The  mother,  with  a  parent  care,  not  only  thus  broods  over 
her  eggs  till  they  are  hatched,  but  continues  to  protect  her  young 
for  a  considerable  time  after,  and  either  dies  during  the  time  she  is 
performing  this  last  office  for  them,  or  very  soon  after. 

The  males  of  both  the  above  species  are  much  less  than  the  fe- 
males, and  appear  very  different  from  them  ;  the  latter,  except  just 
in  their  infant  state,  never  assuming  any  other  form  than  that  of  a 
scale,  as  already  described ;  whereas  the  males  of  both  kinds,  in 
their  last  state,  become  flies ;  but  neither  of  them  can  probably  do 
any  injury  to  the  pine  plants  whilst  they  are  in  that  form  :  for  the 
jlies  of  none  of  the  Coccus  kind  have  been  found,  on  the  strictest 
examination  by  the  most  able  naturalists,  to  have  any  organ  by 
which  they  can  take  in  nourishment.  In  that  state,  therefore,  they 
can  probably  continue  but  a  short  time,  the  whole  business  of  their 
lives  being  then  destined  to  the  impregnation  of  the  females. 

I  have  hitherto  only  taken  particular  notice  of  the  round  scale, 
or  female  inset,  which  is  the  most  conspicuous,  being  far  larger  than 
the  male.  But  a  careful  observer  will  readily  perceive,  where 
these  scales  are  numerous,  another  set  of  smaller  ones  intermixed 
with  them,  which,  if  he  be  unacquainted  with  the  natural  history 
of  these  insects,  he  will  hardly  suspect  to  belong  to  the  same 
same  animal,  as  they  put  on  so  different  an  appearance.  They  are 
semitubular,  and  their  length  scarcely  exceeds  the  diameter  of 
one  of  the  small  round  scales,  and  their  breadth  is  not  more  than  a 
third  or  fourth  part  of  their  length.  These,  however,  contain  the 
males  in  one  of  their  last  stages,  under  which  they  assume  the  form 
of  nymphs,  and  become  flies.  In  order  to  be  satisfied  of  this,  a  person 
need  only  break  open,  with  the  point  of  a  needle,  a  few  of  those 
scales,  when  they  are  arrived  at  maturity,  and  he  will  perceive  con- 
tained within  each  of  them,  a  very  beautiful,  but  small  fly,  with  all 
the  characters  of  the  flies  of  the  Coccus  kind. 

The  length  of  this  fly,  from  the  head  to  the  tail,  exclusive  of  the 
wings,  and  those  long  hairs  which  are  so  characteristic  of  the  flies 
of  this  kind,  is  about  the  thirtieth  part  of  an  inch  ;  and  the  length, 
including  the  wings  when  folded  one  over  the  other,  exclusive  of 
the  hairs  before  mentioned,  is  not  more  than  the  eighteenth  part  of 
of  an  inch. 

The  insects  of  this  last  mentioned  species  are  of  a  very  perni- 
cious nature.  When  the  pines  are  infested  with  them,  there  will 
be  much  trouble  and  great  expence  in  cleaning  them,  even  to  keep 
the  insects  under ;  and  notwithstanding  the  greatest  care,  the  plants 
will  suffer  much,  and  in  time  grow  very  unsightly ;  their  leaves  will 
appear  yellow  and  sickly,  and  generally  a  great  number  of  yellow 
transparent  spots,  may  be  seen  all  over  them. 

On  the  least  neglect  in  destroying  them,  they  will  encrease  innu- 
merably, and  so  beset  the  lower  parts  of  the  leaves  next  the  stem  of 
the  plant  (where  they  are  most  numerous)  with  scales,  as  nearly  to 
touch  each  other.  And  as  they  pierce  that  part  of  the  leaf  im- 
mediately under  the  scale,  with  their  proboscis,  they  thereby  not  only 


162  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  [FEE. 

draw  out  the  nutricious  juices  themselves,  but  also  destroy  the  tubes 
through  which  they  flow.  The  upper  parts  of  the  leaves  being 
thus  deprived  of  their  nourishment,  consequently  die.  But  these 
insects  do  not  attack  the  roots,  as  has  been  frequently  asserted. 

3.  THE   WHITE    MEALY    CRIMSON-TINGED    INSECT.       This  ittSCCt, 

as  well  as  the  former,  I  have  not  found  to  be  noticed  by  naturalists. 

This  species  also  has  all  the  characters  of  a  Coccus,  but  in  all 
probability  belongs  to  another  genus.  For  whereas  the  two  former 
species  are  undoubtedly  oviparous,  this  seems  to  be  viviparous. 
It  is  mcKt  probable  that  the  young  ones  remain  some  time  in  the 
mealy  down  of  the  mother  till  they  have  acquired  strength,  and 
are  arrived  at  such  a  degree  of  perfection,  as  to  enable  them  to 
support  themselves. ...when  they  forsake  the  parent  insect,  and  dis- 
perse to  different  parts  of  the  plant. 

When  this  species  is  first  perceived  on  the  leaves  of  the  Pine,  it 
appears  to  be  nothing  more  than  small  particles  of  meal  or  powder, 
collected  together  ;  but  in  a  few  days  it  assumes  the  form  of  a  louse 
or  bug,  thickly  covered  with  a  fine  meal  or  down,  of  an  oval  form 
on  its  upper,  and  very  flat  on  its  under  side,  from  whence  proceed 
its  legs,  which  are  six  in  number.  These,  as  well  as  many  other 
particulars  in  the  above,  and  preceding  descriptions,  are  not  to  be 
distinguished  without  the  help  of  glasses. 

The  last  described  species,  is  of  a  more  pernicious  nature  than 
the  former ;  it  attacks  every  part  of  the  plant,  from  the  top  of  its 
fruit,  even  to  the  most  extreme  parts  of  its  roots.  These  animals 
wedge  themselves  in  between  the  protuberances  of  the  fruit,  in  a 
most  surprising  manner,  so  as  not  to  be  got  out  without  difficulty, 
which  not  only  makes  the  fruit  appear  very  unsightly  when  it 
becomes  ripe,  but  by  robbing  it  of  its  nutricious  juices,  is  the 
cause  also  of  its  wanting  flavour  and  being  ill  tasted. 

But  the  bad  effects  of  this  species  on  the  mots  of  the  plants,  are 
yet  of  a  far  worse  consequence ;  for  there,  even  at  the  bottom  of  the 
pots,  they  increase  with  an  uncommon  degree  of  rapidity,  so  as  soon 
to  become  very  numerous,  and  in  the  end  to  destroy  the  principal 
roots  of  the  plants. 

There  have  been  various  methods  used  for  the  extirpation  of  these 
insects^  such  as  shifting  the  plants  and  washing  their  roots  ;  decoc- 
tions from  tobacco,  wormwood,  walnut  leaves,  henbane,  and  other 
herbs  of  a  bitter  or  poisonous  quality.  Some  have  added  to  the 
above,  snuff,  sulphur  and  pepper.  These  and  many  other  remedies 
have  been  tried  to  very  little  purpose  ;  at  length  Mr.  Win.  Sjieechly, 
then  Gardener  to  the  Duke  of  Portland,  England,  discovered  and 
recommended  in  his  excellent  treatise  on  the  culture  of  the  Pine- 
Apple,  the  following  receipt,  which  he  asserts,  "  for  the  destruction 
of  these  insects,  had  never  failed  him  ;  its  efficacy  being  conformed 
by  nine  years  experience." 

THE  RECEIPT. 

Take  one  pound  of  Quicksilver  ;  put  it  into  a  glazed  vessel,  and 
pour  upon  it  one  gallon  of  boiling  water,  which  let  stand  till  it  becomes 


FEB.]  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  163 

cold:  then  pour  off  the  water  for  use.  Repeat  this  on  the  same  quick- 
silver (for  it  will  retain  its  powers)  till  a  sufficient  number  of  gallons 
are  provided  to  Jill  a  vessel  intended  for  the  purpose.  One  in  the  form 
of  a  trough,  that  will  hold  eight  or  ten  gallons,  is  the  most  convenient, 
especially  for  the  large-sized  plants. 

Then  to  every  gallon  of  this  mercurial  water  add  six  ounces  of  soft 
green  soafa  dissolved  in  a  portion  of  the  prepared  water.  Let  the 
mixture  stand  till  it  becomes  milk-warm,  which  is  the  degree  of  warmth 
it  must  be  kept  to  during  the  time  of  dipping. 

Before  I  proceed  to  the  method  of  applying;  the  above  mixture 
to  the  plants,  I  cannot  avoid  calling  in  question,  any  virtue  that 
may  be  attributed  to  a  mercurial  efficacy  therein ;  first,  as  it  is  the 
opinion  of  the  most  experienced  Chemists,  that  crude  mercury  is 
not  soluble,  in  any  degree,  in  pure  water,  whether  poured  on,  in  a 
cold  or  boiling  state  ;  secondly,  that  if  it  contained  any  acid  when 
put  on,  which  might  decompose  a  part  of  the  mercury,  the  adding 
thereto  of  soap,  would  by  virtue  of  its  alkali ;  neutralize  the  acid, 
and  thereby  disengage  and  precipitate  the  mercury :  therefore, 
it  is  at  least  very  questionable,  whether  its  efficacy  is  not  exclusively 
attributable  to  the  alkali  of  the  soap. 

If  in  place  of  the  quicksilver  or  crude  mercury,  above  recom- 
mended, you  were  to  substitute  corrosive  sublimate,  in  the  following, 
or  even  in  a  greater  proportion  ;  there  is  no  doubt  of  its  effectually 
answering  the  end,  without  doing  the  shadow  of  injury  to  the  plants. 

Dissolve  half  an  ounce  of  corrosive  sublimate,  in  a  pint  of  gin  or 
other  spirit,  when  dissolved,  incorporate  therewith  four  gallons  of 
soft  water,  and  it  will  be  ready  for  use. 

The  soft  soap  may  be  added  thereto,  in  the  proportion  above  men- 
tioned, but  its  alkali  acting  on  the  acid  of  the  sublimate,  will  convert 
it  into  a  mild  muriate  of  mercury,  and  consequently  render  it  much 
less  active  than  before. 

Previously  let  it  be  observed,  that  this  dressing  cannot  be  effect- 
ually applied  with  propriety  to  fruiting  pines,  either  after  they  have 
started  their  fruit,  or  for  two  months  before  it,  as  disturbing  their 
roots  at  that  time  would  prevent  their  fruit  growing  to  the  full  size  ; 
however,  succession  plants  may  be  dressed  at  any  period,  but  in  the 
month  of  October  that  work  can  be  done  with  the  greatest  success  ; 
and  fruiting  plants,  if  infested,  may  at  any  time  be  washed  wiith  the 
solution,  which  will  destroy  such  insects  as  affect  them  above 
ground. 

Before  the  plants  arc  taken  out  of  their  pots,  I  would  advise 
the  brushing  off  a  few  of  the  scaly  iesects  (as  in  a  common  dress- 
ing) especially  towards  the  bottom  of  the  leaves,  where  they  will 
sometimes  be  so  numerous  as  in  appearance  to  lie  one  upon  ano- 
ther, in  which  case  the  mixture  might  be  prevented  from  penetrat- 
ing to  the  bottom  insects.  I  do  not  know  that  this  business  of  brush- 
ing is  absolutely  necessary  ;  but  as  the  whole  operation  in  a  large 
Hot-house  may  be  performed  in  one  day,  the  labour  of  a  person  er 
two  extraordinary,  for  this  purpose,  can  amount  to  but  a  very  incon- 
siderable expence. 


164  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  [FED. 

The  leaves  of  the  large-sized  plants  should  then  be  tied  toge- 
ther ;  they  will  be  more  manageable  in  this  form  than  with  their 
leaves  loose,  and  less  liable  to  be  damaged.  The  plants  should 
then  be  taken  out  of  the  pots,  and  divested  of  their  long  loose  roots, 
as  also  a  few  of  the  decayed  leaves  at  the  bottom,  and  the  rest  wash- 
ed clean. 

The  last  species  of  insects  (by  gardeners  most  generally  called 
Pine-Bug)  will  sometimes  conceal  themselves  in  holes  at  the  bot- 
tom of  the  stems  of  the  plants,  especially  in  large  ones  ;  and  as  the 
mixture  might  be  prevented  from  penetrating  into  those  holes,  by 
the  air  contained  in  them,  care  should  be  taken  to  examine  that  part 
with  great  circumspection. 

It  may  not  be  amiss  in  this  place  to  observe,  that  the  earth  which 
comes  out  of  the  pine  pots,  together  with  the  leaves  and  roots  taken 
from  off  the  plants,  should  be  removed  to  a  considerable  distance 
from  the  Hot-house.  Also,  that  the  pots,  out  of  which  the  pine 
plants  were  taken,  should  not  be  used  again  for  that  purpose,  with- 
out first  being  put  into  boiling  water. 

The  pine  plants  being  now  ready,  let  them  be  put  either  into  the 
mixture,  or  the  corrosive  solution,  in  which  they  should  remain, 
with  every  part  covered,  for  the  space  of  six  minutes  ;  then  take 
them  out,  first  letting  the  tops  decline  for  the  mixture  to  drain 
out  of  their  centres.  The  vessel  should  be  immediately  filled 
with  fresh  plants,  and  those  taken  out  set  to  dry  with  their  roots 
downwards ;  for  by  placing  them  in  that  position  the  solution,  Sec.  will 
descend,  and  penetrate  to  the  very  bottom  of  the  leaves  in  the 
centre  of  the  plant,  whereby  the  insects  which  are  concealed  there, 
will  be  totally  destroyed.  The  mixture  will  change  the  plants 
to  a  sad  green  colour,  which  will  give  them  the  appearance  of 
being  spoiled ;  but,  as  they  become  dry,  they  will  in  a  great  measure 
resume  their  proper  hue. 

During  the  operation  it  will  be  necessary  to  add  a  supply  of  hut 
mixture,  in  order  to  keep  the  whole  to  a  proper  degree  of  warmth, 
as  also  to  make  up  the  deficiency  which  must  naturally  happen. 

It  will  be  proper  to  do  this  work  in  a  fine  day,  and  as  soon  in 
the  forenoon  as  convenient,  that  the  plants  may  have  time  to  dry, 
which  they  will  do  in  a  few  hours,  and  then  they  must  undergo  the 
same  operation  a  second  time. 

The  process  of  the  second  operation  being  axactly  the  same  as  the 
first,  a  repetition  thereof  is  unnecessary. 

After  the  second  dipping,  a  spunge  should  be  used  to  remove 
any  unsightly  matter  on  the  leaves  of  the  plants.  They  should  then 
be  set  to  dry  with  their  tops  downwards,  that  the  mixture  may  drain 
from  every  part ;  for  it  is  necessary  that  every  part  of  the  plant 
should  be  quite  dry  before  it  is  planted. 

During  the  performance  of  the  above  operations,  a  sufficient  num- 
ber of  labourers  should  be  employed  in  getting  the  Hot-house 
ready  for  the  reception  of  the  plants,  (as  changing  the  tan,  and  clean- 
ing every  part  of  the  Hot-house  ;  and  if  the  inside  of  the  roof  were 
painted  at  the  same  time  it  would  be  better.  Also,  it  might  be  ser- 
viceable, if  a  small  fire  was  made  in  the  pine  pit  with  charcoal  and 
sulphur,  and  the  house  shut  up  an  hour  or  two  to  keep  in  the  steam. 


FEB.]  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  155 

But  in  case  there  are  vines,  or  other  plants,  growing  in  the  Hot- 
house, this  last  operation  must  be  omitted. 

If  the  above  work  cannot  be  clone  in  one  and  the  same  day,  the 
pine  plants  may  with  great  safety  be  set  in  a  dry  airy  place  for  a  day 
or  two,  pro\7ided  they  are  not  put  into  heaps,  which  would  greatly 
damage  them  in  a  short  time. 

The  mould  intended  for  the  pine  plants  at  the  first  potting,  should 
be  light  and  fine :  And  I  would  recommend  that  the  pots  be  small 
in  proportion  to  the  size  of  the  plants,  that  each  plant  may  be  what 
Gardeners  term  UNDERPOTTED  ;  they  will  strike  root  both  sooner 
and  better  than  if  put  into  larger  pots,  and  at  their  next  shifting 
they  will  go  into  proper-sized  pots,  with  their  balls  and  roots 
entire. 

After  the  pine  plants  are  replaced  in  the  Hot-house,  it  will  be 
proper  to  shade  the  glasses  in  the  middle  of  the  day,  whenever  the 
weather  is  warm  and  clear.  The  house  should  be  constantly  kept 
to  a  great  degree  of  heat,  which  will  be  the  means  of  making  the 
plants  strike  sooner  and  stronger ;  it  being  evident  that  they  cannot 
draw  themselves  weak  while  in  an  inactive  state  :  However,  as  soon 
as  the  plants  are  perceived  to  grow,  it  will  be  necessary  to  give  them 
by  degrees  a  greater  quantity  of  air. 

Great  care  should  be  taken  to  prevent  the  roots  of  the  plants  from 
being  injured  by  an  over-heat  of  the  tan,  which  may  be  done  by 
raising  the  pots,  in  case  the  tan  should  heat  violently. 

Other  Insects  found  in  Hot-houses,  ivith  the  methods  of  destroying 

them. 

Besides  the  different  species  of  insects,  which  are  found  so  perni- 
cious to  the  Pine-apple  plants,  there  are  other  kinds  that  infest  most 
stoves,  which  frequently  prove  very  troublesome ;  and  although 
they  are  not  injurious  to  the  Pine-apple,  are  yet  very  prejudicial  to 
most  other  plants  kept  there,  either  for  use  or  ornament. 

1.  THE  APHIS.  This  insect  is  of  the  order  HEMIPTERA.  Charac- 
ters.   Rostrum  bent  inwards.     Antenna,  setaceous  and  longer  than 
the  thorax.     Wings,  four  on  the  males  ;  females  none.     Feet  six. 
They  have  generally  two  little  horns  or  hairs,  placed  on  the  hinder 
part  of  their  abdomen. 

Roses,  and  various  other  plants,  are  very  subject  to  be  overrun 
with  these  insects,  and  if  no  means  are  used  to  extirpate  them,  they 
will  in  a  short  time,  take  such  entire  possession  of  the  plants,  that 
every  part  of  the  young  wood  will  appear  to  be  covered  with  them. 
They  are  commonly  called  lice.  Many  kinds  of  flowers  and  exotic 
plants  which  are  kept  in  stoves,  are  very  subject  to  be  annoyed  with 
them. 

These  are  easily  destroyed  three  ways.  1.  By  fumigating  the 
house  with  tobacco.  2.  By  dusting  the  infected  plants  with  fine 
snuff  or  tobacco  dust.  3.  By  a  decoction  or  infusion  of  tobacco. 

2.  THE  ACARUS,  commonly  called  the  Red  Sfiider.     This  isx>f 
the  order  APT  ERA.     Characters.     Eyes  placed  on  the  sides  of  the 


166  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  ,  [FEB. 

head,  remote  from  one  another.  Mouth  or  proboscis,  formed  by  a 
small  pointed  rostrum  inclosed  in  a  sheath.  Antennae,  shorter  than 
the  proboscis.  Feet  eight.  They  are  oviparous. 

This  is  a  pest  to  almost  every  kind  of  plant ;  for  this  insect  is  not 
only  pernicious  to  most  plants  kept  under  glass,  but  also  to  many 
growing  in  the  open  air. 

In  hot  dry  weather,  the  increase  of  these  insects  is  exceedingly 
rapid,  and  when  they  become  numerous,  they,  by  various  means, 
commit  great  havock  on  plants ;  for  this  insect,  with  its  proboscis,  per- 
petually wounds  the  fine  or  capillary  vessels  of  plants,  and  extracts 
their  nutricious  juices.  It  also  works  a  web  about  the  leaves,  and 
over  the  tender  buds  and  tops  of  the  plants,  in  such  a  manner  as 
nearly  to  suffocate  them,  and  prevent  their  vegetation. 

This  insect  does  not  seem  to  be  affected  by  fumigation  made  with 
any  ingredients  hitherto  discovered  ;  and  it  is  probable  that  the  ap- 
terous insects,  or  those  without  wings,  are  not  so  much  affected  by 
fumigation  as  the  winged  tribe. 

However,  the  mixtures  recommended  for  destroying  the  insects 
on  the  Pine -apple,  will  have  the  same  effect  on  this.  Plants  greatly 
infested,  and  growing  in  pots,  when  their  tops  are  not  very  large, 
may  with  great  facility  be  dipped  in  a  convenient  vessel  filled  with 
those  mixtures  :  the  top  of  the  plant  need  only  remain  a  short  time 
therein,  and  it  should  then  be  placed  in  a  shady  place,  to  prevent  its 
drying  too  rapidly. 

These  insects  very  frequently  reside  on  the  under  side  of  the 
leaves,  and,  when  very  numerous,  they  work  so  thick  a  web  there- 
on, that,  it  somtimes  prevents  the  mixture  from  entering  into  cer- 
tain hollow  parts  of  the  leaves,  by  which  means  a  few  escape 
unhurt,  in  which  case  it  will  be  proper  for  the  plants  to  undergo 
the  same  operation  the  succeeding  afternoon,  which  will  most 
assuredly  destroy  all  that  escaped  before. 

Large  or  climbing  plants,  when  their  leaves  are  large,  as  for 
instance  the  -vine,  must  be  dressed  with  the  mixture  by  means  of  a 
sfiung-e :  this  has  the  appearance  of  a  tedious  operation ;  but  in  a 
dark  day  when  the  house  is  not  very  warm,  a  person  will  make 
considerable  progress  therein,  in  the  course  of  a  few  hours. 

The  keeping  of  the  house  in  a  moist  state,  by  watering  the  walks 
and  flues  late  in  an  evening,  and  the  frequent  sprinkling  of  the  plants 
with  water,  contributes  to  retard  the  progress  of  these  insects, 
which  are  very  impatient  of  much  moisture.  This  reduces  them 
to  a  temporary  state  of  inaction  but  will  not  destroy  them. 

3.  THE  THRIPS.  Order  HEMIPTERA.  Characters.  Rostrum, 
small  and  obscure.  Antennae,  as  long'as  the  thorax.  Body  slender, 
of  an  equal  thickness  in  its  whole  length.  Abdomen  inflexible, 
being  generally  bent  upwards.  Wings  four,  incumbent  on  the 
back  of  the  insect,  narrow  in  proportion  to  their  length,  and  cross 
one  another  at  some  distance  from  their  base.  Feet  six,  the  tarsus 
of  each  foot  having  only  two  articulations. 

This  is  also  a  very  pernicious  species  of  insect,  and  is  very  com- 
mon in  Hot-houses,  as  well  as  upon  plants  in  the  open  air ;  it  is  very 
minute,  so  much  so  as  to  be  scarcely  perceptible,  generally  conceal  ^ 


FEB.]  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  157 

ing  Itself  along  the  veins  of  the  leaves,  from  whence  it  skips  with 
great  agility  on  being  touched.  It  is  a  great  enemy  to  the  Vine 
while  the  leaves  are  young  and  tender,  whether  they  grow  in  the 
open  air  or  under  glass.  The  Cape  jasmine,  as  well  as  many  other 
plants,  often  fall  a  prey  to  these  minute  insects. 

These  may  be  destroyed  by  the  same  methods  as  the  Aphis. 

4.  THE  ONISCUS,  or  Wood-louse.    This  belongs  to  the  order  AP- 
TERA.     Characters.... Antennae,  setaceous  and  bent-mouth,  furnished 
with  two  palpi.     Head,  intimately  joined  with  the  thorax.     Body, 
oval-form,  composed  of  several  crustaceous  plates.     Feet  fourteen. 
They  change  their  skin  like  many  other  apterous  insects. 

These  are  very  common  in  the  bark-pits,  as  well  as  in  woods, 
houses,  gardens,  &c.  but  are  seldom  destructive,  except  to  young 
seedling  plants,  on  their  first  appearance  above  ground.  This, 
however,  may  be  prevented  by  dusting  the  plants,  whilst  in  that 
state,  with  fine  snuff*  or  tobacco  dust. 

5.  THE  FORMICA,  or  Ant.    This  insect  is  so  universally  known 
as  to  render  a  description  unnecessary. 

These  are  often  exceedingly  numerous  in  Hot-houses,  and  espe- 
cially where  the  Aphides  and  Coccus  hesperidum  abound  ;  for  there 
is  a  sweet  glutinous  matter  which  issues  from  these  insects  (being 
either  their  excrements,  or  produced  by  them  from  some  other  cause) 
that  seems  to  be  the  principal  inciment  that  draws  the  ant  thither. 

The  ant  may  be  destroyed  with  great  facility  by  setting  pots  con- 
taining honey  and  water,  in  the  same  manner  as  is  practised  for 
catching  wasps,  Sec. 

6.  THE  Coccus  HESPERIDUM,  or  Brown  Turtle  Insect,   already 
described,  is  not  an  enemy  only  to  the  Pine-apple  plant,  but  also  to 
many  others  both  in  the  Hot-house  and  Green-house  ;  therefore,  I 
am  induced  to  take  notice  of  it  again. 

This  insect  may  be  destroyed,  whilst  young,  by  fumigation: 
therefore,  where  that  operation  is  frequent,  they  are  rarely  to  be  met 
with. 

Of  Fumigating  the  House. 

The  house  may  be  fumigated  either  by  means  of  bellows  invented 
for  that  purpose,  or  by  that  of  a  srnoaking-pot.  The  most  eligible 
seasons  for  this  business,  are  the  spring  and  autumn,  when,  if  ne- 
cessity requires,  it  should  be  repeated  every  eight  or  ten  days,  till 
the  proper  effect  is  produced.  But  it  may  be  done  at  any  period, 
except  when  there  are  ripe  fruit  in  the  house,  as  then  it  would  give 
them  a  smokey  flavour. 

Fumigation  is  best  performed  late  in  an  afternoon  or  evening, 
and  proves  most  efficacious  when  the  weather  is  moist  and  calm  ; 
for  the  smoke  is  retained  much  longer  in  the  house  when  the  air  is 
still,  and  the  cavities  of  the  roof,  particularly  those  between  the 
squares  of  glass,  filled  with  moisture. 

The  Aphides  may  be  destroyed  with  a  gentle  fumimagation  ;  but 
the  Thrifts  and  Coccos  hssfieridum  require  a  smoke  so  strong,  that  a 
person  cannot  distinguish  an  object  farther  than  at  the  distance  of 
five  feet. 


168  THE  HOT-HOUSE. 

When  a  Hot-house  is  greatly  infested,  either  with  the  Aphides  or 
Thrifts,  the  fumigations  should  be  repeated  every  third  or  fourth 
night,  for  three  or  four  times  successively.  The  reason  and  neces- 
sity of  these  repetitions  proceed  from  a  probability  that  the  smoke 
cannot  affect  the  insect  in  the  egg,  and  perhaps  it  may  not  have 
sufficient  power  over  them  in  other  of  their  states ;  therefore  a 
fresh  brood  may  naturally  be  expected  in  a  few  days. 

Care  of  the  Pines. 

Many  of  the  Pine  plants  will  now  appear  set  for  fruiting,  which 
may  be  distinguished  by  the  short  leaves  in  their  centres ;  from 
that  time  they  should  be  moderately  watered,  and  the  house  kept 
pretty  warm  ;  for  when  plants  are  kept  cold  at  the  time  of  forming 
their  fruit,  it  generally  causes  many  of  them  to  be  crooked, 
imperfect,  and  mis-shapen.  Therefore,  under  such  circumstances, 
never  let  the  heat  fall  lower  than  55°  of  Fahrenheit,  nor  rise  higher 
by  Jire-hcat,  than  62°  :  a  little  air  should,  however,  be  admitted, 
whenever  the  weather  permits,  and  especially,  on'sunny  warm  days, 
when  the  heat  rises  to  above  seventy  degrees.  But  in  no  case,  nor 
under  any  circumstances,  let  the  heat  of  the  house  fall  below  52°,  if 
possible. 

As  some  persons  may  be  furnished  with  Reaumur's,  and  not  with 
Fahrenheit**:  thermometer,  it  may  be  of  use  to  give  a  comparative 
table  of  their  scales,  as  well  as  the  rules  by  which  one  can  be  con- 
verted into  the  other;  observing,  that  32°  of  the  latter,  being  the 
freezing  point,  is  equal  to  0  (or  zero)  of  the  former. 

Reaumur's         Fahrenheit's  Reaumur's         Fahrenheit's 

Degrees   16  68              Degrees  33  106,2 

15  65,8  32  104 

14  63,5  31  101,7 

13  61,2  30  99,5 

12  .59  29  97,3 

11  56,8  28  95 

10  54,8  27  92,7 

9  52,5  26  90,5 

8  50  25  88,2 

7        v          47,7  24  86 

6  45,5  23  83,8 

5  43,3  22  81,5 

4  41  21  79,2 

3  38,6  20  77 

2  36,5  19  74,7 

1  34,2  18  72,5 

0  32  17  70,3 

To  convert  the  degrees  of  Reaumur  into  those  of  Fahrenheit. 
Multiply  the  degrees  of  Reaumur  by  9,  and  divide  the  product  by  4  ; 
to  the  quotient  add  32,  and.  the  amount  will  be  those  of  Fahrenheit. 


FEB.]  THE  HOT-HOUSE. 

To  convert  the  degrees  of  Fahrenheit  into  those  of  Reaumur. 
Subtract  32  from  the  degrees  of  Fahrenheit  j  multiply  the  remain- 
der by  4  ;  divide  the  product  by  9,  and  the  quotient  will  be  those  of 
Reaumur. 

Your  fires  must  be  continued  every  evening  and  night,  being 
careful  in  very  severe  weather  to  keep  them  burning  and  suffi- 
ciently supplied  with  fuel,  till  so  late  a  period  as  there  can  be  no 
danger  of  the  house  becoming  cold  before  morning.  Indeed,  unless 
your  house  is  well  constructed,  there  may  be  some  severe  weather 
in  which  it  would  be  necessary  to  keep  up  the  fires  all  night. 
There  have  been  instances  of  careless  persons  entrusted  with  this 
work,  who,  in  order  to  get  to  bed  at  an  early  hour,  or  to  some  idle 
frolic,  have  put  down  large  and  violent  fires,  which  never  fail  to 
do  injury  to  the  plants,  and  sometimes  to  burst  the  flues  :  this  prac- 
tice is  to  be  carefully  avoided,  as  a  moderate  and  steady  heat  is  what 
always  will  insure  the  best  success. 

The  fires  are  to  be  renewed  very  early  in  the  morning,  and  con- 
tinued until  the  heat  of  the  sun  is  sufficient  to  promote  a  comforting 
warmth  in  the  house  ;  and  in  very  cold  and  dark  weather,  it  will  be 
necessary  to  keep  them  burning  all  day. 

It  is  very  advisable,  and  indeed  indispensable,  for  the  health  of  the 
plants,  to  sprinkle  the  flues  and  floor  occasionally  with  water,  in  or- 
der to  restore  the  parched  air  of  the  house  to  its  atmospheric  qua- 
lity :  this  will  not  only  render  great  service  to  the  plants,  but  tend  to 
weaken  the  power  of  destructive  insects  ;  for  these  do  not  like  a 
moist  air,  manifested  by  their  greater  increase  in  dry  stoves,  than 
in  others. 

A  proper  degree  of  heat  must  now  be  preserved  in  the  bark-bed, 
for  nothing  can  contribute  so  much  to  the  free  growth  of  the  young 
fruit,  as  a  brisk  bottom-heat :  if  the  roots  have  not  this  advantage, 
it  is  impossible  to  make  the  fruit  swell  to  any  tolerable  size. 

Therefore,  where  the  bark-bed  was  not  stirred  up  the  former 
month,  to  renew  the  fermentation,  and  revive  the  declined  heat,  it 
should  now  be  done;  for  the  heat  will  consequently  now  begin  to  be 
very  faint,  and  by  stirring  up  the  bark  almost  to  the  bottom,  it  will 
bring  on  a  fresh  fermentation  therein ;  by  which  means,  the  bed 
will  again  recover  a  lively  growing  heat,  the  good  effect  of  which, 
will  soon  appear  both  in  the  plants  and  fruit,  provided  it  be  done  in 
due  time  ;  but  if  the  heat  is  greatly  decreased,  and  the  bark  decayed, 
you  may  augment  it  at  the  same  time  with  about  one  third  or  fourth 
part  of  new  tan,  otherwise  defer  it  till  next  month,  which  see. 

However,  where  the  work  of  forking  up  the  barVbed  appears 
necessary  at  this  time,  agreeable  to  the  observations  above  mentioned, 
it  should,  if  possible,  be  done  in  the  first  week  in  the  .  ^nth ;  for 
if  it  is  delayed  much  longer,  the  plants  and  fruit  will  c.rtUnly,  for 
want  of  a  due  proportion  of  heat,  be  much  checked  in  their  g-row.ii. 
Observe,  in  the  first  place,  to  take  all  the  pots  out  of  the  bed;  f"  en 
begin  at  one  end,  and  open  a  kind  of  trench,  by  taking  out  some  of 
the  bark  and  carrying  it  to  the  other ;  this  done,  begin  at  said 
trench,  and  with  a  fork,  dig  and  work  up  the  bark,  quite  to  the  bot- 
tom, taking  care  to  break  the  cakes  or  lumps  j  mix  all  the  parts  well 


170  THE  HOT-HOUSE. 

together,  and  fill  up  at  last,  with  that  taken  out  of  the  first  opening 
Having  finished,  let  the  top  be  made  level,  and  immediately  plunge 
the  pots  again  to  their  rims  as  before.  This  work  is  so  very  neces- 
sary, that  it  should  not  on  any  consideration  be  omitted  at  the  time 
above  mentioned  ;  that  is  to  say,  if  the  bark  has  much  declined  in 
it  its  heat. 

The  bed  being  thus  treated,  it  will  soon  renew  its  heat,  and 
retain  the  same  well  for  six  weeks,  or  thereabouts. 

At  the  expiration  of  that  period,  or  some  time  in  March  or  begin- 
ning of  April,  the  bark  will  require  to  be  stirred  up  again,  and 
refreshed  with  about  one  third,  or  at  least  one  fourth  part  of  new 
tan ;  after  this  it  will  retain  a  proper  degree  of  heat,  till  the  fruit 
are  ripe.... See  March  and  Ajiril. 

The  bark-bed  wherein  the  succession  pine-plants  are  plunged, 
should  also  be  examined  now  with  good  attention  ;  and  if  the  heat, 
is  found  to  be  much  decreased,  the  bed  should  be  treated  ill  the 
manner  above  directed* 

Watering  the  Pines* 

The  fruiting  pine-apple  plants  should  now  have  moderate  refresh- 
ments of  water,  provided  there  be  a  good  heat  in  the  bark-bed :  and 
when  there  is  a  proper  degree  of  that  and  moderate  moisture 
together,  it  will  make  the  young  fruit  swell  very  fast. 

But  in  watering  these  plants,  be  careful  to  give  it  moderately  at 
each  time.  The  rule  is  this  :  let  the  earth,  in  the  pots  which  contain 
the  plants,  be  kept  just  a  little  moist  in  a  middling  degree  ;  and  if 
this  is  observed,  the  plants  and  fruit  will  thrive. 

The  succession  pine* plants,  that  is,  those  which  are  to  fruit  next 
year,  must  also  be  refreshed  now  and  then  with  water ;  in  watering 
these,  let  the  same  rule  be  observed  as  just  mentioned  above. 

Remember  also  to  give  water  at  times  to  the  younger  succession 
Pines,  consisting  of  the  last  year's  crowns  and  suckers. 

In  watering  the  Pine  plants  in  general,  yon  should  still  be  cau- 
tious to  let  none  of  it,  or  but  as  little  as  possible,  fall  into  the  centre 
of  the  plants,  where,  being  apt  to  lodge,  it  would  prove  detrimental? 
in  some  degree,  to  these  exotics,  at  this  season. 

Of  the  various  kinds  of  Plants  in  the  Hot-house. 

In  some  hot-houses,  there  are  kept  many  other  sorts  of  curious 
exotics,  besides  the  Pines,  both  of  the  succulent  and  woody  kinds, 
&c.  and  as  they  are  all  tender,  being  from  the  hottest  parts  of  the 
world,  the  same  degrees  of  heat,  as  recommended  for  the  pine,  will, 
generally  speaking,  be  suitable  for  them  :  however,  there  are  some 
of  those,  which  to  do  them  the  greatest  possible  justice,  that  re- 
quire a  somewhat  greater  degree  of  heat  than  the  Pine-apple,  and 
others  not  quite  so  much  ;  therefore,  when  there  is  the  convenience 
of  different  apartments  in  a  long  range  of  hot-houses,  all  may  be 
suited  according  to  their  respective  necessities. 


THE  HOT-HOUSE.  171 

Let  it  be  observed,  that  all  tender  plants,  which  are  kept  in  pots, 
the  succulent  tribe  excepted,  thrive  much  better  when  plunged  in  the 
bark-bed  ;  but  the  tallest-growing  kinds  must  be  planted  in  a  horde! 
of  suitable  earth,  near  the  back  wall,  to  give  them  the  greater  scope 
for  extending  their  heads. 

All  these  kinds  of  plants  should  be  kept  remarkably  clean  from 
dust,  or  any  sort  of  filth  that  may  gather  upon  their  stems,  shoots, 
or  leaves ;  and  such  ought  always  to  be  washed  off  as  soon  as  it  ap- 
pears. There  is  nothing  more  necessary  than  cleanliness  to  pre- 
serve the  health  of  plants  ;  and  where  foulness  is  permitted  upon 
any  of  them,  it  will  not  only  close  up  those  small  pores  which  are 
so  necessary  to  the  growth  of  all  vegetables,  but  will  also  render  the 
whole  plant  unhealthy  ;  which  seldom  fails  to  invite  insects,  and  to 
increase  them  prodigiously  in  the  house. 

These  plants  must  also  be  kept  very  free  from  decayed  leaves; 
that  is,  when  any  such  appear,  let  them  be  immediately  taken  off. 

Water  should  also  be  given  to  all  these  plants  at  times  ;  some 
will  require  but  very  little  and  seldom,  and  others  will  need  it  pretty 
often.  Therefore,  let  good  care  be  taken  that  every  plant,  accord- 
ing to  its  nature,  be  properly  supplied  with  that  article  ;  but  be  sure 
never  to  give  any  sort  too  much  at  a  time  ;  and  in  giving  it,  always 
make  a  distinction  between  the  succulent,  the  herbaceous,  and  the 
woody  kinds. 

The  latter  will  need  water  oftener,  and  more  at  a  time,  than  either 
of  the  former,  for  some  of  those  require  very  little  moisture  about 
their  roots,  and  too  much  would  rot  the  plants. 

Let  the  woody  kinds  in  general  be  moderately  watered,  not  less 
than  once  or  twice  a  week ;  and  it  will  be  serviceable  to  sprinkle 
water  sometimes  all  over  the  head  or  branches  of  these  plants, 
especially  the  coffee-trees,  the  pimento,  or  all-spice,  and  all  the  tender 
Mimosa's. 

But  the  succulent  kinds,  such  as  the  Cactus's,  tylesembryanthe- 
mum's,  Aloe's,  Euphorbia's  and  the  like,  must  not  be  watered  oftener 
than  once  a  week. 

In  watering  these  kinds  let  care  be  taken  to  give  but  little  at  each 
time,  just  sufficient  to  reach  the  bottom  roots. 

It  will  be  an  advantage  to  all  these  tender  plants,  both  of  the 
woody,  succulent,  and  other  kinds,  when  the  surface-earth  in  the 
pots,  casually  crusts  or  binds,  to  stir  and  loosen  it  lightly  a  small 
depth. 

Admit  air. 

Fresh  air  should  now  be  admitted  to  the  pines,  and  other  plants 
in  the  hot-house,  at  all  times  when  the  weather  will  permit. 

But  this,  however,  must  only  be  done  at  this  season,  when  the 
sun  shines  warm,  and  the  air  is  quite  calm  and  clear :  then  it  will  be 
proper  to  slide  some  of  the  glasses  open  a  little  way,  in  the  warmest 
time  of  the  day,  particularly  the  roof-lights,  shutting  all  close  if  the 
weather  changes  cold  and  cloudy,  and  always  in  proper  time  in  the 
afternoon. 


172  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  [FES. 

The  best  time  of  the  day  fo<r  the  admission  of  fresh  air,  is 
from  about  twelve,  to  one,  two,  or  three  o'clock ;  but  for  the  time 
of  opening  or  shutting  the  glasses,  let  the  weather  be  the  guide. 

Of  Kidney-beans  in  the  Hot-house. 

Now  plant  some  more  kidney -beans,  of  the  early  white,  cream- 
coloured,  yellow,  or  speckled  dwarfs,  Sec.  in  pots  or  boxes,  and 
place  them  in  the  hot-house  to  succeed  those  planted  last  month  ; 
or  if  none  was  then  planted,  this  is  a  very  successful  time,  superior 
to  the  former  month,  for  planting  a  good  hot-house  crop  ;  and 
managed  as  directed  m  January >  page  97. 

Do  not  forget  to  refresh  with  water,  those  kidney -beans  which 
were  planted  last  month  ;  they  will  require  it  two  or  three  times  a 
week  :  give  also  necessary  waterings  to  the  young  beans  advancing 
for  successive  crops. 

Of  blowing  Roses  and  other  Plants  early. 

You  may  now,  in  the  beginning  of  this  month,  set  pots  of  roses, 
and  honeysuckles,  Sec.  in  the  hot-house ;  or  pots  of  bulbous  roots, 
carnations,  pinks,  and  double  sweet-williams,  or  of  any  other  desira- 
ble flowering  plants,  either  of  the  shrub  or  herbaceous  kinds,  which 
you  desire,  by  way  of  curiosity,  to  bring  to  an  early  bloom,  supplying 
them,  when  in  growth,  with  plenty  of  water. 

Likewise,  about  the  middle  and  end  of  the  month,  you  may  in- 
troduce more  of  the  same  sort  of  flowering-plants  to  produce  flowers 
in  regular  succession. 

You  may  also  introduce  pots  sown  with  seeds  of  any  desirable 
annuals,  of  moderate  growth,  to  flower  early,  such  as  mignonette, 
balsams,  ten-weeks  stock,  &c.  &c. 

Of  Cucumbers  in  the  Hot-house. 

Where  it  is  desired  to  raise  early  cucumbers  in  the  hot-house, 
some  seed  may  now  be  sown  as  directed  last  month,  or  young  plants 
planted  therein,  from  any  common  hot-bed.  See  Hot-house  for 
January. 

Early  Strawberries. 

You  may  now  introduce  into  the  hot-house,  pots  of  the  scarlet 
and  alpine  strawberries,  either  to  succeed  those  of  last  month,  or  as 
a  first  introduction.  Let  them  be  two  years  old  bearing  plants  ; 
place  them  near  the  glasses,  or  plunge  them  in  the  bark -bed  to  for- 
ward them  earlier,  giving  proper  supplies  of  water. 

If  some  fresh  plants  are  taken  into  the  hot-house  every  three 
weeks,  you  may  obtain  a  constant  supply  of  early  fruit,  till  those  in 
the  open  ground  ripen. 

Or  pots  of  strawberry  plants  kept  in  moderate  dung  hot-beds 
to  forward  them,  may  be  removed  in  successive  order  into  the  hot- 
house ;  they  will  produce  a  supply  of  early  fruit  in  regular  suc- 
cession 


173 


MARCH. 


THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN. 

THE  weather  in  this  month,  both  in  the  middle  and  eastern 
states,  is  very  unsettled  ;  sometimes  it  proves  dry  and  frosty  ; 
sometimes  tolerably  warm  and  comfortable  ;  at  other  times  cold 
and  wet,  with  storms  of  strong  winds,  hail,  snow  and  rain,  which 
makes  a  diligent  attendance  on  the  hot-beds  absolutely  necessary  ; 
otherwise,  they  often  miscarry,  and  all  the  preceding  trouble  and 
expence  is  lost. 

Let  me  here  observe,  that  snow  ought  never  to  be  suffered  to  re- 
main, but  as  short  a  time  as  possible,  either  on  the  hot-bed  lights, 
covers,  or  about  the  beds ;  for  the  cold  produced  thereby,  often  pe- 
netrates through  a  slight  covering,  especially,  if  there  is  not 
a  strong  bottom  heat,  and  produces  a  kind  of  hoar-frost  in  the 
inside  of  the  frame,  which  seldom  fails  to  do  considerable  injury ; 
and  likewise,  when  suffered  to  lodge  round  the  beds,  it  causes  a 
sudden  decline  of  the  heat. 

Care  of  early  Cucumbers  and  Melons. 

Examine  the  state  of  the  cucumber  and  melon  hot-beds,  and  see 
if  they  are  of  a  proper  degree  of  heat,  so  as  to  preserve  the  plants 
in  a  state  of  free  growth. 

You  must  let  the  heat  be  lively,  but  moderate,  by  which  means 
the  ridged-out  plants  of  good  growth  will  show  fruit  plentifully,  and 
these  will  swell  'freely,  and  grow  to  a  handsome  size. 

If  you  find  the  heat  declined,  apply  a  lining  of  fresh  horse-dung, 
as  directed  in  last  month,  page  9  ;  to  which,  I  refer  you  for  general 
instructions  on  this  subject. 

Let  the  plants  have  fresh  air  every  day,  by  raising  the  upper  end 
of  the  glasses,  from  about  half  an  inch,  to  one  or  two  inches  in 
height,  in  proportion  to  the  heat  of  the  bed,  and  warmness  of  the 
weather ;  always  more  freely  in  sunny,  calm,  mild  days,  than  when 
cloudy  or  a  sharp  external  air ;  and  when  the  weather  changes 
colder,  diminish  the  admission  of  air,  or  shut  down  the  glasses  ;  and 
always  shut  close  in  proper  time  towards  evening,  about  three  or 
four  o'clock,  <kc.  according  to  the  temperature  of  the  weather. 

Refresh  them  now  and  then  with  water ;  let  this  be  given  very 
moderately,  and  in  a  mild  sunny  day  ;  the  best  time  for  doing  this  is 
from  ten  to  two  o'clock. 

Cover  the  glasses  with  mats  every  afternoon,  as  soon  as  the  sim 
is  off  them  ;  or,  if  a  dark  day,  and  the  weather  is  severe,  at  such 
period  as  you  may  think  necessary,  according  to  the  degree  of  heat 
or  cold  that  may  be  prevalent  at  the  time ;  and  uncover  in  the 


174  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN  [MARCH. 

morning,  if  a  sunny  day,  so  soon  as  it  shines  on  the  beds,  or,  if 
otherwise,  as  early  as  may  be  consistent  with  the  safety  of  the 
plants  ;  for  their  being  too  much  debarred  from  the  light,  causes 
them  to  become  discoloured  and  weakly. 

As  the  early  plants,  raised  last  month,  will  have  now  advanced 
considerably  into  fruitful  runners,  and  show  fruit  abundantly,  espe- 
cially cucumbers  ;  let  the  runners  or  vines  be  trained  out  regularly 
along  the  surface  of  the  bed  at  equal  distances,  and  peg  them  down 
neatly  with  small  hooked  sticks.  At  this  early  season,  it  will  be  of 
much  utility  to  impregnate  the  young  fruit  of  cucumbers  with  the 
farina  of  male  blossoms.  The  flowers  of  cucumbers  and  melons 
are  male  and  female,  separate,  on  the  same  plant,  and  the  females 
produce  the  fruit ;  the  males  are  often  erroneously  called  false 
blossoms,  and  many  persons,  in  consequence  of  that  notion,  pull 
them  off;  but  they  are  so  far  from  being  false  blooms,  that  they  are 
by  nature  designed  to  impregnate  the  female  flowers,  to  render  them 
fruitful  ;  for  the  anthers  in  the  centre  of  the  male  blossom,  being 
furnished  with  a  fine  powder,  which  being  dispersed  on  the  stigma 
in  the  centre  of  the  female,  the  fecundation  is  effected,  and  the  fruit 
in  a  day  or  two  after  will  begin  to  swell,  and  which,  in  cucumbers, 
will  generally,  in  about  a  fortnight,  or  within  a  few  days  under  or 
over,  according  to  the  state  of  growth  of  the  plants,  be  arrived  to 
a  proper  size  for  cutting  or  gathering  for  the  table,  in  young  green 
fruit,  three  or  four,  to  five  or  six  inches  long  or  more ;  so  that  with- 
out the  assistance  of  the  male  blossom,  the  females  having  the  em- 
bryo fruit  at  their  base,  wither  and  decay,  and  the  infant  fruit  turns 
yellow  ond  drops  off. 

Therefore  it  is  of  importance  to  preserve  a  sufficiency  of  the 
male  flowers,  for  the  purpose  of  impregnating  the  females,  and  in 
the  early  culture  of  cucumbers,  See.  it  is  eligible  to  carry  some  of 
the  males  to  the  female  flowers,  observing  for  this  purpose,  to 
detach  some  new  expanded  male  blossoms  with  the  stalk  to  each, 
and  holding  the  stalk  between  the  finger  and  thumb,  and  pulling  oft" 
the  petal  or  flower  leaf  surrounding  the  male  organ :  then  with  the 
remaining  anthers,  or  central  part,  touch  the  stigma  in  the  centre 
of  the  female,  twirling  it  about,  so  as  some  of  the  farina  or  male 
powder  of  the  anthersc  may  adhere  thereto  j  a  little  of  which  being 
sufficient  to  effect  the  impregnation. 

This  operation  is  essentially  necessary  to  be  performed  by  hand, 
to  early  plants  that  are  shut  up  in  frames,  before  the  lights  or 
glasses  can  be  admitted  sufficiently  open  to  give  free  access  to  a 
large  current  of  air ;  or  flying  insects,  such  as  bees,  Sec.  all  of 
which  assist  in  conveying  the  farina  of  the  male  bloom  to  the  females, 
as  is  evident  in  plants  exposed  to  the  open  air. 

The  above  operation  of  fecundating,  or,  as  the  gardeners  term  it, 
setting  the  fruit,  should  be  performed  the  same  day  the  flowers 
open,  and  are  fully  expanded ;  which  is  the  most  essential  period 
of  their  generative  effect. 

The  female  or  fruit-bearing  flowers  are  readily  distinguished  at 
sight  from  the  males ;  the  former  having  always  the  embryo  fruit 
placed  immediately  under  the  base  of  the  flower  j  or,  in  other  words, 


MARCH.]  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  175 

the  embryo-fruit  issues  forth  with  the  flower-bud  on  its  top,  visible 
from  its  first  eruption  from  the  stem  of  the  plant ;  but  the  male 
blossom  is  placed  immediately  on  the  top  of  its  foot-stalk  without 
any  appearance  of  fruit  under  its  base. 

The  same  operation  of  impregnating  or  setting  the  fruit,  as  above, 
may  also  be  practised  on  melons  ;  which  will  have  the  same  effect 
as  in  cucumbers ;  but  as  melons  are  only  eatable  when  ripe,  it  will 
be  five  or  six  weeks  longer,  before  they  attain  full  size  and  ma- 
ture ripeness. 

Sow  Cucumber  and  Melon  Seed. 

Sow  in  the  above,  or  any  new-made  hot-beds,  the  seeds  of  cucum- 
bers and  melons,  at  the  beginning,  and  also  about  the  middle,  and 
towards  the  latter  end  of  this  month,  to  have  a  supply  of  young 
plants  in  readiness,  either  to  plant  into  new  beds,  or  to  supply 
the  place  of  such  plants  as  may  fail. 

The  sorts  of  cucumbers  are,  the  early  short  prickly,  long  green 
prickly,  white  prickly,  long  green  Turkey,  long  white  Turkey,  the 
Smyrna,  and  the  Roman. 

But  the  first  two  sorts  are  commonly  cultivated  for  the  early  and 
general  crop,  the  short  prickly  being  the  earliest,  and  is  therefore 
often  sown  for  the  first  crop  in  the  frames ;  but  the  long  green 
prickly  is  the  best  to  sow  for  a  main  crop,  either  for  the  frames  or 
hand-glasses,  or  in  the  natural  ground ;  it  being  both  a  plentiful 
bearer  in  long  continuance,  and  the  fruit  attain  the  most  handsome 
regular  growth,  six  or  eight,  to  ten  or  twelve  inches  in  length. 

Making  netu  Hot-beds  to  transplant  Cucumbers^  &ct 

•  Make  hot-beds  the  beginning  of  this  month,  to  plant  the  cucum- 
ber or  melon  plants  upon,  which  were  sown  the  latter  end  of  January, 
or  any  time  in  February ;  make  the  beds  very  substantial,  fully 
three  feet  and  a  half  or  four  feet  high,  having  the  dung  previously 
prepared,  as  directed  in  January,  page  5,  which  will  prevent  a 
violent  heat  taking  place  after  its  being  made  ;  let  the  cucumber  or 
melon  plants  be  planted  therein,  and  managed  as  directed  in  that 
month,  and  in  February. 

There  are  many  gardeners,  and  others,  who  cannot  conveniently 
procure  dung  to  begin  to  make  hot-beds  for  cucumbers  or  melons 
at  an  early  season.  Where  that  is  the  case,  it  is  not  too  late  to 
begin  now ;  and  a  hot-bed  may  be  made  the  beginning  or  any  time 
of  the  month,  and  the  seeds  of  cucumbers  and  melons  sown 
therein ;  the  cucumbers  from  this  sowing  will  be  fit  to  cut  towards 
the  end  of  April,  be  in  full  bearing  the  beginning  of  May,  and  will 
continue  fruiting  a  long  time.  The  melons  will  come  to  perfection, 
m  June  and  July. 

Cucumbers  and  Melons  for  Bell  or  Hand-glasses. 

About  the  eighteenth  or  twentieth,  or  any  time  towards  the  end 
of  this  month,  is  the  time  to  begin  to  sow  the  cucumbers  and  melons, 
which  are  to  be  planted  under  hand  or  bell-glasses. 


176  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  [MARCH. 

They  may  be  sown  in  any  of  the  cucumber  hot-beds  now  at 
work;  or  if  not  convenient,  or  there  are  no  such  beds  made,  make  a 
hot-bed  for  that  purpose,  for  a  one,  two  or  three  light  frame, 
according  to  the  quantity  of  plants  required ;  sow  the  seed,  and 
manage  the  beds  as  directed  in  the  two  former  months.  The 
plants  will  be  ready  for  ridging  out,  by  the  middle,  or  towards  the 
end  of  next  month ;  the  cucumbers  will  be  in  bearing  the  latter  end 
of  May,  and  the  melons  in  July. 

Cauliflowers. 

Where  cauliflower  plants  were  raised  from  seeds  sown  last 
month,  they  should  as  soon  in  this,  as  they  have  arrived  to  the  height 
of  three  or  four  inches,  be  pricked  into  a  new  slight  hot-bed  made 
for  that  purpose,  at  the  distance  of  three  inches  every  way,  and  ma- 
naged as  directed  in  February,  page  119. 

By  pricking  out  the  plants  on  a  little  bottom  heat,  it  will  forward 
them  considerably,  and  by  thus  transplanting,  they  will  become 
strong  and  well  furnished  with  roots,  and  consequently  will  succeed 
much  better  when  planted  out,  than  if  suffered  to  remain  in  the  seed 
bed. 

The  autumn  sown  plants,  and  those  which  you  had  transplanted 
last  month,  from  the  January  sowing,  must  now  have  plenty  of  air, 
and  this  in  proportion  as  the  season  advances,  and  the  weather 
grows  warm  ;  in  order  to  harden  them  for  bearing  the  open  air,  when 
planted  out  where  intended  for  flowering ;  which  cannot  be  done 
with  safety,  in  the  middle  states,  before  the  last  week  in  this  month, 
or  rather  the  first  in  April ;  nor  in  the  eastern  states,  before  the  se- 
cond week  or  middle  of  that  month,  unless  you  have  hand-glasses  to 
cover  them,  in  which  case  they  may  be  planted  out  any  time  that  the 
ground  is  in  good  condition,  after  the  middle  of  March. 

The  latter  method  I  would  recommend,  provided  the  plants  are 
large,  the  spring  early,  and  that  you  have  the  convenience  of  hand- 
glasses, but  not  otherwise. 

Though  at  this  early  period,  the  ground  best  adapted  for  produc- 
ing ^ood  cauliflowers,  is  not  always  in  a  proper  state  fo£  cultivation, 
which  ought  to  be  a  principal  consideration,  either  in  the  planting  or 
sowing  of  any  crops  whatever;  and  never  departed  from,  should  the 
season  prove  ever  so  late. 

Cauliflower  seed  may  be  sown,  the  beginning  of  this  month,  as 
directed  in  January,  page  12,  which,  if  well  attended  to  and  judi- 
ciously managed,  and  that  the  great  summer  heats  should  not  set  in 
at  an  e?a%ly  period,  will  head  tolerably  well ;  but,  if  these  circum- 
stances  do  not  follow,  a  great  number  of  them  will  not  flower 
beft  ;re  late  in  autumn,  and  some  not  even  then  ;  such  of  these  as  do 
not.  flower  before  the  setting  in  of  the  winter  frosts,  are  to  be  treated 
as  directed  in  the  Kitchen-garden  for  November,  by  which  treatment, 
tlvey  will  produce  tolerable  good  heads,  and  at  a  very  acceptable 
period. 

You  must  be  very  particular  during  this  month,  especially  when 
Oie  weather  gets  warm,  to  give  your  cauliflower  plants  plenty  of  air, 


JMARCH.J  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  177 

otherwise  they  will  draw  up  weakly,  and  be  good  for  nothing ;  but 
at  the  same  time,  do  not  let  them  be  chilled,  nor  their  vegetation 
checked,  by  exposing  them  too  much  in  cold  weather,  or  neglecting 
to  cover  them  carefully  at  night ;  expose  them  fully  to  the  air 
every  mild  and  warm  day,  but  not  when  the  wind  is  sharp  or  cutting, 
and  raise  the  glasses  behind  in  more  unfavourable  weather. 

On  the  judicious  treatment  given  to  these  plants,  during  this 
month,  depends,  in  a  great  measure,  their  future  success;  therefore, 
due  and  constant  attention  should  be  paid  to  them,  agreeably  to  the 
rules  already  laid  down. 

As  the  beginning,  or  early  part  of  next  month,  will  be  the  principal 
period,  for  planting  out  cauliflowers,  in  the  middle  and  eastern 
states  ;  I  am  induced  to  defer  the  instructions  for  performing  that 
part  of  the  business  till  April ;  observing  however,  that  in  every  part 
of  the  Union,  it  should  be  done  as  early  in  spring,  as  the  ground 
gets  warm,  and  into  a  good  state  for  vegetation,  not  before  ;  for, 
when  that  is  not  the  case,  the  plants  very  frequently  get  chilled  and 
stunted  by  the  coldness  of  the  earth  and  air,  and  seldom  afterwards 
produce  good  heads. 

You  may  sow  some  cauliflower  seed  on  a  warm  border,  towards 
the  latter  end  of  the  month,  to  produce  their  flowers  or  heads  in 
October,  Sec. 

Cabbage  Plants. 

During  the  early  part  of  this  month,  the  cabbage  plants  which  are 
in  a  considerable  state  of  forwardness,  must  be  well  inured  to  the 
open  air,  the  better  to  prepare  them  for  planting  out  as  soon,  after 
the  middle  of  the  month,  as  the  weather  will  permit.  Those  pro- 
duced from  later  sowings  in  hot-beds,  will,  to  do  them  justice,  require 
the  same  management,  as  directed  for  cauliflower  plants. 

Planting  and  sowing  Cabbages. 

As  early  in  this  month,  as  you  find  the  weather  sufficiently 
favourable,  which  in  the  middle  states  is  generally  so,  about  the 
fifteenth  or  twentieth,  transplant  cabbage  plants  of  all  kinds,  par- 
ticularly the  early  sorts,  where  they  are  to  remain  for  heading ;  this, 
in  warm  situations  and  dry  ground,  may  be  done  at  an  earlier  period, 
according  to  circumstances. 

Let  them  be  planted  in  good  ground  enriched  with  dung,  at  two 
feet  and  a  half  distance  for  the  early  york,  sugar-loaf,  and  other 
early  kinds ;  but  the  large  late  cabbage  plants  should  be  set  a 
yard  asunder. 

The  above  distances  are  to  be  understood  of  such  plants,  as  are  to 
rsmiin  to  grow  to  their  full  size  ;  but  such  of  the  forward  kinds,  as  are 
to  be  cut  while  young,  may  be  planted  closer :  eighteen  inches  to 
two  feet  will  be  sufficient. 

Plant  out  also  a  general  crop  of  red  cabbage  plants,  to  head  in 
August,  Sec.  and  allow  them  three  feet  very  way,  plant  from  plant. 

Sow  seeds  of  every  kind  of  cabbage,  which  you  wish  to  cultivate  5 
these  may  be  sown  in  the  open  ground  about  the  middle?  or  as  early 

A  a 


178  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  ['MARCS, 

in  the  month  as  the  weather  permits.  The  early,  as  well  as  the 
late  kinds,  should  be  sown  now,  in  order  to  have  a  regular  suc- 
cession, or  as  substitutes  in  default  of  early  plants,  or  for  a 
general  summer  crop.  The  early  Symrna,  early  York,  Bat- 
tersea  and  sugar-loaf,  are  best  adapted  for  this  purpose  ;  the  last 
kind,  though  not  quite  so  early  as  the  others,  has  a  particular  advan- 
tage over  them,  in  not  being  liable  to  burst  so  soon  after  having 
arrived  at  perfection  ;  and  consequently  may  be  kept  a  long  time, 
either  for  use  or  market. 

Sow  also  a  full  cro"p  of  the  large  flat  Dutch,  drum-head,  large 
English,  Savoy,  and  red  pickling  cabbages ;  the  plants  from  this 
sowing,  will  produce  larger  and  better  heads,  than  if  sown  later. 

Should  the  season  prove  favourable,  by  which  you  can  get  these 
seeds  sown  early  in  the  month,  it  will  be  very  proper  to  sow  some 
more  of  each  kind,  about  the  end,  for  succession  plants. 

Some  people  never  think  of  sowing  Savoys,  till  late  in  spring ; 
this  is  a  great  mistake,  for  the  early  sown  plants  will  always  pro- 
duce larger  and  better  cabbaged  heads  than  the  late. 

In  sowing  the  different  sorts  of  cabbage-seed,  never  let  them  be 
sown  under  the  shade  of  trees,  hedges,  very  high  fences,  or  build- 
ings ;  for  in  such  situations,  the  plants  are  drawn  up  weak  and 
long-shanked,  and  are  more  liable  to  be  destroyed  by  vermin  than 
in  open  exposures. 

SGivi?ig  Peas. 

As  early  in  this  month  as  possible,  sow  a  full  crop  of  peas  ;  the 
kinds  most  proper  for  this  sowing,  are  the  early-frame  and  early 
Golden  and  Charletori  hotspurs ;  sow  also,  at  the  same  time,  some 
of  the  glory  of  England,  large  marrowfat,  white  rouncival,  Spanish 
rnorotto,  or  large  Imperial  kinds ;  these,  or  any  of  the  late  sorts, 
being  now  sown,  will  regularly  succeed  the  early  crops. 

Sow  peas  from  this  forward,  once  a  fortnight  or  three  weeks,  to 
keep  up  a  regular  supply  for  the  table,  young  and  in  good  condition. 
Or,  it  will  be  a  good  rule,  when  the  plants  of  a  former  sowing  are 
up,  to  sow  another  crop  of  the  same  sort  for  succession. 

All  the  sorts  of  peas,  except  those  which  are  intended  for  the 
first  or  early  crops,  which  may  be  sown  on  south  or  warm  borders, 
should  be  sowed  in  open  situations,  and  by  no  means  near  low  or 
spreading  trees. 

At  this  season,  and  from  hence  forward,  let  the  early  kinds  be- 
planted  in  drills,  three  feet  and  a  half  asunder  ;  the  larger  growing 
sorts  four  feet,  and  the  largest,  such  as  the  marrowfat,  green,  white, 
and  grey  rouncivals,  Sec.  five  feet,  giving  them  rods  or  sticks  in  pro- 
portion to  their  respective  growths,  by  which  means  you  will  be 
certain  of  abundant  crops. 

It  will  not  be  advisable  to  sow  any  of  the  above  kinds  while  the 
ground  is  tough  and  wet,  always  observing  to  have  your  ground  in 
good  working  condition,  before  you  sow  these  or  any  other  crops  ; 
for,  if  otherwise,  they  cannot  receive  much  benefit,  but  may  consi- 
derable injury  ;  observing,  at  same  time,  that  peas  do  not  thrive  m 
a  heavy  or  clay  soil. 


MARCH.]  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  179 

The  depth  of  covering  which  they  require,  is  from  one  to  two 
inches,  according  as  the  ground  may  be  either  of  a  light  or  heavy 
nature,  or  in  a  dry  or  wet  state  at  the  time  of  sowing. 

Earthing  and  sticking  Peas. 

Towards  the  latter  end  of  the  month,  the  early  sown  peas  will  be 
advancing  in  growth,  and  must  have  earth  drawn  to  their  stems  as 
they  progress,  which  will  greatly  strengthen  them  and  encourage 
their  growth. 

As  to  sticking  peas,  always  be  careful  to  have  this  done  when  they 
are  about  six  inches  high  ;  for,  if  they  fall  to  one  side  or  the  other, 
they  with  difficulty  can  recover  their  erect  posture  ;  and  if  they  are 
double  sticked,  the  better ;  that  is,  place  a  range  of  sticks  on  the  one 
side,  all  in  a  regular  declining  manner,  and  another  on  the  other 
side  of  the  row  declining  in  an  opposite  direction  to  the  former,  by 
which,  none  can  fall  out  on  either  side.  I  cannot  too  much  impress 
the  necessity  of  rodding  well ;  for  on  this,  in  a  great  measure,  de- 
pends the  abundance  of  your  crops. 

Planting  the  large    Windsor  Beans,  and  other  -varieties  of  the 
same  species. 

As  early  in  this  month  as  possible,  plant  a  full  crop  of  Windsor 
beans,  and  also  of  any  of  the  other  varieties  which  you  esteem  ;  the 
Mazagan  and  Lisbon  are  the  earliest,  the  white-blossom  bean  is  very 
delicious,  and  boils  much  greener  than  any  other  kind  ;  but  the 
green  Genoa,  bears  the  heat  of  our  climates  better  than  either  of  the 
others,  and  therefore  is  the  most  suitable  for  late  crops.  The 
long-podded  bean  is  very  good,  and  bears  well ;  but  the  Windsor, 
Sandwich,  Toker,  and  broad  Spanish  kinds,  on  account  of  their 
great  size  and  sweetness,  are  more  esteemed  for  blanching  than 
any  other.  The  dwarf-cluster  bean  is  a  great  bearer,  never  grows 
above  a  foot  or  fourteen  inches  high,  and  may  be  planted  in  rows 
either  in  beds  or  borders,  the  rows  to  be  about  two  feet  asunder ; 
and  as  this  kind  branches  out  considerably  from  the  root,  the  beans 
must  be  planted  in  single  rows,  and  six  inches  distant  from  one 
another. 

I  have  again  to  remark,  that  it  is  from  the  early  planted  of  those 
kinds,  that  much  produce  may  be  expected  ;  for  when  overtaken  by 
the  summer  heat,  whilst  in  blossom,  these  drop  off  prematurely  ; 
consequently,  the  crops  are  poor  and  scanty. 

Continue  planting  these  kinds  once  every  ten  days,  till  the  end  of 
this  month  or  beginning  of  next ;  and  a&  the  early  crops  advance, 
draw  some  earth  up  to  their  stems,  as  directed  for  peas. 

When  beans  are  desired  at  as  early  a  period  as  possible,  you  may 
force  some  of  the  early  Mazagan  kind,  in  any  of  your  forcing  depart- 
ments, observing,  when  the  plants  are  in  full  blossom,  to  nip  off 
their  tops,  which  will  cause  their  fruit  to  set  and  ripen  sooner,  than 
if  left  tp  take  their  natural  course. 


180  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEK.  [MARCH. 

Or  you  may,  about  the  beginning  of  the  month,  plant  a  quantity 
of  them  close  together  in  a  hot-bed,  to  be  defended  with  a  frame  and 
glasses,  or  with  mats,  &c.  and  when  thus  forwarded  for  two  or  three 
weeks,  plant  them  into  the  open  ground ;  observing  to  give  them 
plenty  of  air  whilst  in  the  hot-bed,  and  when  they  have  one  or  two 
inches  growth  therein,  to  plant  them  into  some  warm  border,  in 
rows  two  feet  and  a  half,  or  a  yard  asunder. 

For  further  particulars,  and  "the  method  of  planting  all  the  kinds, 
see  February,  page  127. 

Sonvi?ig  and  transplanting  Lettuces. 

As  early  in  this  month  as  possible,  prepare  a  warm  south  border,, 
and  sow  thereon,  very  thick,  -some  of  the  early  curled  and  grand  ad- 
miral lettuces  ;  also  some  of  the  common  cabbage  lettuce,  in  order 
to  have  them  fit  for  cutting,  with  other  small  sallading,  at  an  early 
period,  and  to  succeed  such  as  you  have  forwarded  in  frames :  let 
the  ground  be  dry  and  light,  and  the  seed  either  raked  in  or  covered 
very  slightly. 

Towards  the  middle  of  the  month,  if  the  weather  be  mild  and  set- 
tled, you  may  sow  in  borders,  beds,  or  any  open  compartments  of 
ground,  different  sorts  of  lettuce-seed,  such  as  the  white,  green, 
spotted,  and  Egyptian  cos,  grand  admiral,  white  Silicia,  India,  ten- 
nis-ball, New-Zealand,  Mogul,  white  and  brown  Dutch,  &c.  these 
are  all  most  excellent  sorts  for  this  sowing,  where  variety  of  supe- 
rior kinds  are  wanted. 

Every  two  weeks  it  will  be  necessary  to  sow  other  successional 
crops,  so  as  to  have  a  regular  and  constant  .supyly  either  for  market 
or  family  use. 

The  different  sorts  should  generally  be  sown  separate,  *and  in 
digging  the  ground,  let  the  earth  be  well  pulverized.  Sow  the  seed 
on  the  surface,  and  rake  them  in  lightly,  taking  care  not  to  draw 
the  earth  in  heaps. 

Or  some  of  the  cos  kinds  particularly,  may  be  sown  thinly  among 
the  crops  of  carrots,  parsneps,  leeks,  &c.  some  for  transplanting, 
and  others  to  remain  for  full  growth. 

In  sowing  lettuce,  it  is  of  much  importance  to  have  good  sorts, 
and  such  as  will  not  run  to  seed  before  they  attain  full  growth  ; 
these  are  not  commonly  to  be  met  with,  and  are  worth  procuring. 

As  soon  in  this  month,  as  the  weather  gets  mild  and  tolerably 
\varm$  transplant  some  of  the  lettuce  plants  from  the  beds,  or  bor- 
ders where  they  have  stood  all  winter,  provided  they  stand  too  close. 
In  doing  this,  observe  to  draw  the  plants  out  regularly,  and  let  the 
strongest  remain  for  heading  at  about  ten  inches  distance ;  then 
loosen  the  surface  of  the  earth  between  them,  and  clear  away  all 
decayed  leaves  and  litter;  after  which,  add  a  little  fresh  earth,  which 
will  give  the  plants  new  vigour,  and  considerably  enlarge  their 
growth. 

Previously  to  planting  out  into  the  open  borders,  any  plants 
raised  in  hot-beds  from  the  early  spring  sowings,  you  must  be  very 


3i ARCH.]  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN. 

particular  to  inure  them  to  the  open  air,  so  that  when  transplanted, 
they  may  not  receive  a  great  check,  by  too  sudden  a  transition. 

It  will  be  of  considerable  service  to  these  plants,  where  trans- 
planted into  the  borders  at  this  season,  to  cover  them  at  night  with 
mats  or  other  light  covering,  which  are  to  be  taken  off  early  in  the 
morning. 

Should  it  happen,  that  you  have  no  lettuce  plants  in  a  state  of 
forwardness  for  early  sallading,  some  may  be  now  sown  in  a  hot-bed, 
to  forward  for  that  purpose. 

Radishes. 

Sow  more  seed,  to  raise  a  supply  of  radishes  to  succeed  those 
sown  last  month. 

There  should  be  some  both  of  the  salmon  and  short-top  kinds, 
sown. at  three  different  times  this  month ;  that  is,  at  the  beginning, 
middle,  and  latter  end ;  by  which  means  there  will  be  a  due  succes- 
sion of  young  radishes  for  the  table.  Let  this  seed  be  sown  now,  in 
an  open  compartment,  observing  the  same  method  as  in  February, 
page  123. 

Thin  the  early  crops  of  radishes,  where  the  plants  stand  too  close  ; 
pull  up  the  worst,  and  leave  the  others  about  two  inches  apart ;  clear 
them  from  weeds  of  all  kinds,  and  as  they  advance  in  growth  thin 
them  be  degrees,  by  drawing  them  for  the  table. 

In  dry  open  weather,  let  the  early  crops  in  frames,  Sec.  be  mode- 
rately watered  at  intervals,  to  forward  them  in  a  free  swelling  state, 
as  well  as  to  render  them  mild  and  crisp  for  eating. 

A  thin  sprinkling  of  radish-seed  may  be  sown  among  other  ge- 
neral crops  at  this  season,  which  will  grow  freely,  and  being  detach- 
ed, will  form  fine  large  crisp  roots. 

Turnep-rooted  Radishes. 

Now  sow  some  turnep-rooted  radish  ;  there  are  two  sorts,  the 
white  and  the  red,  but  the  former  is  preferable  to  sow  for  the  gene- 
ral supply  :  it  grows  like  a  young  Dutch  turnep,  is  very  mild, 
agreeable  to  eat,  and  of  early  perfection. 

Let  the  seed  of  both  sorts  be  sown  separately  in  an  open  space  of 
light  ground,  and  rake  them  in  evenly. 

When  the  plants  have  the  first  central  rough  leaves  half  an  inch 
broad,  thin  them  to  about  two  inches  apart. 

Solving  Spinach. 

Sow  spinach  every  fortnight  or  three  weeks,  to  have  a  regular 
supply  ;  for  the  plants  of  one  sowing,  in  spring  and  summer,  will 
not  continue  fit  for  use  longer  than  that  time,  before  they  run  to 
seed.  Let  the  seed  be  of  the  round-leaved,  or  smooth-seeded  kind  ; 
that 'being  the  most  proper  sort  to  sow  at  this  season,  its  leaves  be- 
ing considerably  thicker  and  larger  than  the  prickly-seeded  spinach. 

This  seed  should  be  sown  thinly  either  in  beds  or  borders,  and 


182  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  [MARCH. 

generally  broad  cast,  in  which  method  you  may  sow  therewith,  a 
little  radish  seed ;  when  the  seed  is  sown  in  light  dry  ground,  tread 
it  over  lightly,  and  then  rake  it  in  regularly,  or  you  may  sow  it  in 
drills  a  foot  asunder,  and  about  half  an  inch  deep. 

Let  it  be  observed,  that  spinach  should  not,  at  this  season,  be  sown 
where  the  ground  is  much  shaded  with  trees  or  bushes  ;  for  in  such 
situations,  the  plants  would  be  drawn  up  to  seed,  before  they  arrive 
to  half  their  growth. 

Hoe  or  hand-weed  the  early  crops  of  spinach,  thinning  the  plants 
at  the  same  time,  but  particularly  those  sown  broad  cast,  to  three, 
four,  or  five  inches  distance. 

The  crop  of  winter  spinach,  which  was  sown  last  autumn,  will, 
towards  the  end  of  the  month,  be  advancing  in  good  perfection  for 
use,  and  should  be  kept  clear  from  weeds,  and  the  earth  between 
the  plants  stirred  with  a  hoe  ;  and  in  gathering  the  plants  for  use, 
if  they  stand  close,  should  thin  them  out  clean  by  the  roots  ;  but  if 
they  already  stand  at  wide  distance,  only  crop  the  large  outer  leaves 
as  wanted,  till  they  begin  to  run,  then  cut  them  clean  up  to  the  bot- 
tom. 

Carrots  and  Parsneps. 

Any  time,  after  the  middle  of  this  month,  that  the  ground  is  in 
good  condition,  you  may  sow  carrots  and  parsneps  for  a  full  crop, 
particularly  the  latter  ;  and  also,  a  sufficient  early  crop  of  the  for- 
mer. 

A  spot  of  light  deep  loam,  inclining  a  little  to  sand,  and  in  an  open 
situation,  should  be  chosen  for  these  crops  ;  for  their  roots  will 
thrive  best  and  grow  largest  in  such. 

The  ground  should  be  trenched,  one  good  spade  deep  at  least,  ob- 
serving in  the  digging  to  take  but  thin  spits,  and  to  break  allj  the 
lumps,  that  the  roots  may  have  full  liberty  to  run  down  long  and 
straight ;  for  if  the  earth  is  not  well  divided  and  separated,  the 
roots  are  apt  to  grow  both  short  and  forked.  Rake  the  ground  well 
after  you,  as  you  proceed  in  the  digging. 

Then  form  the  ground  into  four  feet  wide  beds,  push  the  earth  off 
the  surface  with  the  back  of  the  rake,  half  an  inch  deep,  or  better, 
into  the  alleys  ;  sow  the  seed  evenly  over  the  beds,  and  with  a  spade 
or  shovel  cast  the  loose  earth  from  the  alleys  over  them,  about  half 
an  inch  deep  ;  after  which,  rake  the  surface  lightly,  and  the  work  is 
finished. 

Previous  to  sowing  carrot-seed,  you  should  rub  it  well  between 
your  hands,  mixed  with  some  dry  sand,  to  cause  it  to  separate 
freely. 

.Or  these  seeds  may  be  sown  thin  in  drills,  distant  from  each  other 
from  eight  to  ten  inches  ;  when  they  are  about  three  inches 
high,  thin  the  parsneps  to  four  and  the  carrots  to  three  inches,  plant 
from  plant  in  the  rows. 

Some  people  sow  the  seeds  broad-cast  in  beds,  tread  them  in,  and 
then  rake  the  ground  ;  .but  this  method  should  never  be  practiced, 
where  the  soil  is  stiff,  inclinable  to  wet,  or  apt  to  bind.  You  may 
sow  with  these  crops,  a  few  radish  and  lettuce  seeds ;  of  the  latter, 


MARCH.]  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  183 

any  of  the  cos  kinds,  are  most  suitable  for  this  purpose,  their  not 
being  subject  to  spread,  like  the  heading  sorts. 

Small  Sallading. 

Small  sallading,  such  as  cresses,  mustard,  radish,  rape,  and  tur- 
nep,  &c.  should,  when  a  constant  supply  is  wanted,  be  sown  once  a 
week  or  fortnight,  in  a  warm  border ;  observing  to  draw  some  flat 
shallow  drills,  three  inches  asunder ;  sow  the  seeds  therein,  each 
sort  separate,  and  cover  them  lightly  with  fine  earth. 

For  the  particular  method  of  sowing  and  treating  these  seeds,  see 
the  work  of  last  month,  page  118. 

If  these  young  herbs,  or  any  other  of  your  early  advancing  crops, 
such  as  peas,  beans,  Sec.  are  attacked  with  a  hoarfrost  appearing  en 
them  in  the  morning,  and  that  a  sunny  day  is  likely  to  follow,  let 
them  be  watered  before  the  sun  shines  on  them,  with  spring  or 
pump  water,  to  wash  and  melt  it  off,  which  will  prevent  their 
turning  back  and  spoiling. 

Celery. 

If  celery  was  not  sown  last  month,  let  some  seed  be  sown  the 
beginning  of  this,  to  plant  out  in  May,  Sec,  for  an  early  crop ;  sow 
some  more  of  the  same  seed  about  the  middle,  or  towards  the  latter 
end,  for  a  succession  crop.  The  seed  should  be  sown  in  a  bed  or 
border  of  mellow  rich  earth,  sowing  it  on  the  surface  moderately 
thick,  and  cover  it  in  lightly  with  fine  mould,  not  more  than  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  ;  or  you  may  rake  it  in  with  a  light  and  even 
hand.  Water  the  bed  frequently  in  dry  weather. 

Let  it  be  observed,  that  there  are  two  sorts  of  celery ;  one  known 
by  the  name  of  Italian  or  upright  celery  ;  the  other  called  celeriac, 
or  turnep-rooted  celery.  The  first  is  that  which  is  commonly  cul- 
tivated for  the  general  crops,  and  of  which  there  are-  several  varie- 
ties, viz.  common  upright  celery  with  hallow  stalks,  solid-stalked  cele- 
ry; red-stalked  solid  celery,  8cc.  either  of  which  being  raised  from  seed 
sown  as  above,  is  afterwards  planted  in  trenches  for  blanching  their 
stalks,  which  are  the  principal  useful  parts  j  but  the  celeriac  is  gene- 
rally cultivated  for  its  swelling  bottom  part;  and  being  planted 
either  on  level  ground,  or  in  shallow  drills,  the  roots  of  it  swell  like 
a  turnep.  See  ^ftril,  May,  June,  Sec. 

Broccoli. 

Sow  broccoli  for  early  crops,  Sec.  to  come  in  for  use  in  October, 
November,  and  December,  Sec. 

Choose  seed  of  the  early  purple,  and  some  of  the  cauliflower 
broccoli ;  sow  a  little  of  each  kind  about  the  middle,  or  latter  end  of 
the  month,  in  an  open  bed  of  rich  earth,  and  rake  them  in  :  when  the 
plants  come  up,  manage  them  as  directed  in  May,  June,  and  July. 


184  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [MARCH. 


Sowing  Borecole,  or  curled  Kale. 

Towards  the  end  of  this  month,  you  may  sow  a  first  crop  of  bore- 
cole, for  autumn  service. 

There  are  two  principal  sorts,  the  green  and  the  brown  ;  both 
very  hardy  plants,  with  tall  stems,  and  full  heads  of  thick  fimbriate 
curled  leaves,  not  cabbaging,  and  are  desirable  open  greens  for 
winter,  &c. 

Let  this  seed  be  sown  in  an  open  exposure,  distant  from  trees  and 
close  fences,  as  in  such  situations  they  are  apt  to  draw  up  too  fast, 
with  long  weak  stalks ;  sow  it  broad-cast,  and  rake  it  in  evenly  :  for 
other  particulars,  see  the  succeeding  months. 

Borecole  is  extremely  valuable  for  winter  and  spring  greens, 
where  the  winter  frost  is  not  too  powerful  for  it,  particularly  in  all 
the  southern  states ;  it  is  the  most  hardy  of  the  cabbage  tribe,  and 
in  mild  winters  will  stand  tolerably  well  in  the  middle  states.  In 
the  eastern  states  it  will  require  to  be  taken  up  before  the  winter 
frosts  set  in  with  much  severity,  planted  in  trenches  up  to  the 
leaves,  and  covered  occasionally  with  straw  or  other  light  covering ; 
the  heads  may  be  cut  off  as  wanted,  and  in  spring  the  stems,  if  taken 
up  and  planted  out,  will  produce  an  abundance  of  most  delicious 
sprouts. 

Of  forking  and  dressing  the  Asparagus  Beds. 

This  work  should  be  begun  about  the  latter  end  of  the  month  ; 
for  the  purpose  of  digging  or  forking  these  beds,  you  should  be 
provided  with  a  proper  fork,  having  three  shorts  tines,  six  to  eight 
or  nine  inches  long,  perfectly  flat,  about  an  inch  broad,  and  the  ends 
of  them  rounded  and  blunt ;  however,  in  want  of  such,  it  may  be 
performed  with  a  small,  short-pronged  common  dung-fork. 

In  forking  the  beds,  be  careful  to  loosen  every  part  to  a  moderate 
depth,  but  taking  great  care  not  to  go  too  deep  to  wound  the  crowns 
of  the  roots. 

The  above  work  of  forking  these  beds  is  most  necessary  to  be 
done  every  spring,  to  improve  and  loosen  the  ground,  and  to  give 
free  liberty  for  the  buds  to  shoot  up  ;  also  to  give  easy  access  to  the 
sun.  air,  and  showers  of  rain. 

The  beds  being  forked,  they  must  afterwards  be  raked  even ;  ob- 
serving, if  you  do  not  rake  them  immediately  after  they  are  forked, 
to  defer  it  no  longer  than  the  first  week  in  April,  for  by  that  time  the 
buds  will  begin  to  advance. 

Before  raking  the  above  beds,  you  may  scatter  thereon,  a  few 
radish  and  lettuce  seeds,  to  pull  up  while  young. 

As  to  the  method  of  gathering  or  cutting  asparagus,  when  ad- 
vanced to  a  proper  growth  for  the  table,  it  is  generally  most  eligi- 
ble, to  be  furnished  with  an  asparagus  knife,  having  a  straight,  nar- 
row, taper  blade,  about  six  or  eight  inches  Ipng,  and  about  an  inch 
broad  at  the  haft,  narrowing  to  about  half  an  inch  at  the  point, 
•which  should  be  rounded  off  from  the  back  j  observing,  when  the 


MAICH.]  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  185 

shoots  are  from  about  two  to  three,  or  four  inches  high,  they  should 
be  then  cut,  slipping  the  knife  clown  perpendicularly,  close  to  each 
shoot,  and  cut  it  off  slantingly  about  three  or  four  inches  within  the 
ground,  taking,  care  not  to  wound  any  young  buds  coming  up  from 
the  same  root ;  for  there  are  always  several  shoots  advancing  there- 
from in  different  stages  of  growth. 

Planting  Asparagus. 

New  plantations  of  asparagus  may  now  be  made,  this  being  the 
proper  season  to  remove  these  plants  j  it  may  be  done  any  time 
in  this  month,  when  the  weather  is  mild. 

In  making  plantations  of  these  plants,  one  great  article  to  be 
considered  is,  to  make  choice  of  a  proper  soil ;  choose  the  best  the 
garden  affords ;  it  must  not  be  wet,  nor  too  strong  or  stubborn,  but 
such  as  is  moderately  light  and  pliable,  so  as  it  will  readily  fall  to 
pieces  in  digging  or  raking,  8cc.  and  in  a  situation  that  enjoys  the 
full  sun. 

The  ground  where  you  intend  to  make  new  asparagus  beds, 
should  have  a  large  supply  of  rotten  or  other  good  dung  laid  thereon 
several  inches  thick,  and  then  regularly  trenched  two  spades 
deep,  and  the  dung  buried  equally  in  each  trench,  twelve  or  fifteen 
inches  below  the  surface. 

When  this  trenching  is  done,  lay  on  two  or  three  inches  of  very 
short  well-rotted  manure,  all  over  the  surface,  and  dig  the  ground 
over  again  eight  or  ten  inches  deep,  mixing  this  top  dressing,  and 
incorporating  it  well  with  the  earth. 

The  ground  being  thus  prepared,  and  laid  level,  divide  it  into 
beds  four  feet  and  a  half  wide,  with  alleys  two  feet  wide  between 
each  bed. 

At  each  corner  of  every  bed,  let  a  firm  stake  be  driven  into  the 
ground,  to  serve  as  a  mark  for  the  alleys. 

Four  rows  of  asparagus  are  to  be  planted  in  each  bed,  and  ten  or 
twelve  inches  distance  to  be  allowed  between  plant  and  plant  in  the 
row  ;  and  let  the  outside  rows  of  each  bed,  be  eight  inches  from  the 
edge. 

Next,  let  it  be  observed,  that  the  plants  for  this  plantation  must 
not  be  more  than  two  years  old  ;  but  most  good  gardeners  prefer 
those  that  are  only  one,  which  are  what  I  would  recommend  and 
choose  to  plant ;  as  from  experience  I, have  found  they  generally 
take  root  much  freer,  and  succeed  every  way  better  than  the 
former. 

The  following  is  the  method  of  planting  them  : 

Strain  your  line  along  the  bed  eight  inches  from  the  edge  ;  then 
with  a  spade  cut  out  a  small  trench  or  drill  close  to  the  line,  about 
six  inches  deep,  making  that  side  next  the  line  nearly  upright ;  and 
when  one  trench  is  opened,  plant  that  before  you  open  another, 
placing  the  plants  upright  ten  or  twelve  inches  distance  in  the  row. 

In  planting  these  plants,  observe  that  they  must  not  be  placed  flat 
in  the  bottom  of  the  trench,  but  nearly  upright  against  the  back  of 
the  trench  or  drill,  and  so  that  the  crown  of  the  plants  may  also 

Bb 


186  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN,  [MARCH, 

stand  upright,  and  two  or  three  inches  below  the  surface  of  the 
ground ;  let  them  be  all  placed  an  equal  depth,  spreading  their  roots 
somewhat  regular,  against  the  back  of  the  trench,  and  at  the  same 
time  drawing  a  little  earth  up  against  them  with  the  hand  as  you 
place  them,  just  to  fix  the  plants  in  their  due  position,  till  the  row 
is  planted  ;  when  one  row  is  thus  finished,  immediately,  with  a  rake, 
draw  the  earth  into  a  drill  over  the  plants,  and  then  proceed  to  open 
another  drill  or  trench,  as  before  directed  :  plant  it  in  the  same  man- 
ner, and  cover  in  the  plants  as  above,  and  so  on  till  the  whole  is 
planted .;  then  let  the  surface  of  the  beds  be  raked  smooth,  and  cleared 
from  stones. 

When  the  plants  come  up,  keep  them  always  free  from  weeds ; 
but  in  the  mean  time,  be  cautious  not  to  sow  any  early  crops  what- 
ever among  your  young  plantations,  as  is  very  injudiciously  prac- 
tised by  many,  for  these  would  smother  them  in  their  growth,  and 
greatly  retard  their  progress. 

Let  it  next  be  observed,  that  it  will  be  three  years  from  the  time 
of  planting,  before  the  asparagus  plants  produce  buds  large  enough 
to  cut  for  use  in  any  general  gathering ;  though  sometimes,  in  rich, 
good  ground,  and  a  remarkably  prosperous  growth  in  the  plants 
in  the  production  of  strong  shoots,  a  few  of  the  largest  may  be  cut 
the  second  spring  after  planting ;  but  I  would  advise  not  to  cut 
many,  before  the  third  year. 

A  plantation  of  asparagus,  if  the  beds  are  properly  dressed  every 
year,  as  directed  in  the  spring  and  autumn  months,  will  continue  to 
produce  good  buds  for  ten  or  twelve  years,  or  more. 

In  making  new  plantations,  I  have  sometimes,  instead  of  putting 
in  young  plants,  as  above  directed,  sown  the  seed  at  once  in  the 
beds  where  the  plants  are  to  remain ;  and  as  by  that  practice  the 
plants  are  not  disturbed  by  a  removal,  they  consequently  cannot 
fail  of  producing  a  regular  crop. 

The  beds  being  four  feet  and  a  half  wide,  and  prepared  as  before 
directed  for  the  plants  ;  mark  out  four  lines  lengthways  the  beds  j 
then  along  these  lines,  at  the  distance  of  every  nine  or  ten  inches, 
dot  in  a  few  seeds,  covering  them  about  an  inch  deep.  When  the 
plants  have  been  come  up  some  time,  they  must  be  thinned,  leaving 
only  one  of  the  strongest  in  each  place ;  and  carefully  clear  them 
from  weeds. 

A  plantation  of  asparagus,  thus  raised,  will  produce  buds  fit  to 
cut  the  third  spring  after  sowing,  but  will  be  very  large  and  fine  the 
fourth  year. 

For  forcing  asparagus  see  February  page  115. 

Solving  Asparagus  Seed, 

This  seed  may  be  sown  about  the  middle,  or  towards  the  latter 
end  of  the  month,  on  four  feet  wide  beds,  of  rich  earth.  Sow  it 
tolerably  thin  on  the  surface,  clap  it  in  with  the  back  of  a  spade, 
cover  it  a  little  better  than  half  an  inch  deep  with  earth  out  of  the 
allies,  and  then  rake  the  beds  smooth. 


MARCH.]  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  187 

Or,  it  may  be  sown  thinly  in  drills,  six  inches  asunder,  and 
covered  the  same  depth  as  above ;  give  the  beds,  both  before  and 
after  the  plants  are  up,  occasional  waterings,  to  strengthen  them  and 
forward  their  growth;  and  they  must  be  kept  very  free  from  weeds, 
by  a  careful  hand-weeding  at  different  times  during  the  summer. 

When  a  quantity  of  asparagus  for  forcing,  is  annually  required, 
you  must  act  as  directed  in  February,  page  1 17. 

Sowing  Beet  Seed. 

You  may  now  sow  some  of  the  different  sorts  of  beet ;  the  red, 
for  its  large  root,  and  the  green  and  white  sorts  for  their  leaves  in 
soups,  stewing,  Sec. 

For  this  purpose,  make  choice  of  a  piece  of  rich,  deep  ground  ; 
lay  it  out  into  four  feet  wide  beds,  push  the  loose  earth  into  the  al- 
leys, then  sow  the  seed  tolerably  ..hin,  and  cover  it  with  the  earth  out 
of  these  alleys,  to  about  three  quarters  of  an  inch  deep.  Qv,  let 
drills  be  drawn  with  a  hoe,  near  an  inch  deep,  and  a  foot  or  a  little 
better  asunder  ;  drop  the  seeds  thinly  therein,  and  cover  them  over 
the  same  depth  as  above.  Or,  you  may  sow  the  seed  on  a  piece  of 
ground,  rough  after  being  dug,  and  rake  it  well  in. 

Likewise,  you  may  now  sow  the  Mangel  Wurtzel,  root  of 
scarcity,  or  great  German  beet,  for  its  large  leaves  to  boil  as  spin- 
ach, its  thick  fleshy  leaf-stalks,  to  dress  like  asparagus,  and  its  roots 
for  boiling,  before  they  become  of  a  very  large  size.  The  leaves 
and  roots  are  excellent  food  for  cattle ;  producing,  during  summer, 
an  uncommon  abundance  of  foliage ;  the  outside  leaves,  for  this 
purpose,  may  be  stripped  off  every  eight  days  during  the  season. 

Sotving  Orimi  Seed. 

In  order  to  have  onions  in  good  perfection  the  first  year,  from 
seed,  which  can  certainly  be  effected  in  the  middle,  but  more  par- 
ticularly in  the  eastern  states,  you  must  be  careful  to  fix  upon  a 
suitable  soil,  which  is  a  strong,  light,  rich  loam  ;  always  avoiding 
that  which  is  subject  to  become  parched,  or  bound  up  by  heat  and 
drought ;  or  that,  in  consequence  of  too  large  a  proportion  of  sand, 
is  likely  to  become  violently  hot  in  summer,  for  this  is  extremely 
injurious  to  those  plants,  by  causing  them  to  come  to  an  untimely 
maturity,  manifested  by  the  extraordinary  perfection  that  onions  ar- 
rive to  in  the  moderate  climates  of  Europe,  where  they  have  not  to 
encounter  a  violent  summer  heat. 

If  this  ground  had  been  strongly  manured  in  November,  and 
then  thrown  up  into  high  sloping  ridges,  it  would  be  much  improv- 
ed and  meliorated  by  the  frost,  Sec.  and  could  now  be  easily  and  ex- 
peditiously  leveled  for  sowing. 

When  this  is  not  the  case,  you  may  now  give  such  ground  a  good 
coat  of  well-rotted  cow-dung,  or  other  good  rotten  manure,  and  dig 
it  a  full  spade  deep,  incorporating  the  dung  therewith,  and  pulver- 
izing the  earth  as  you  proceed  in  the  digging ;  this  should  not  be 
attempted,  till  the  ground  is  sufficiently  dry  to  pulverize  well  and 


188  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  [MARCH. 

fall  to  pieces  under  the  rake  ;  but  the  earlier  you  can  get  it  in  this 
state,  and  the  seed  sown,  the  larger  and  better  onions  will  you 
have. 

There  are  various  methods  of  sowing  the  seed ;  but  first  I  will 
give  you  the  one  practised  by  the  most  judicious  and  careful  gar- 
deners. 

As  you  proceed  in  digging  the  ground,  rake  it  well  after  you ; 
that  being  done,  lay  it  out  into  three  and  a  half,  or  four  feet  wide 
beds,  with  alleys  between  of  about  a  foot  wide  ;  then  with  the  back 
of  a  rake,  push  off  the  light  loose  earth  from  the  top  of  each  bed, 
into  the  allies,  one  half  to  the  one  side,  the  other  to  the  opposite : 
this  done,  and  being  provided  with  good  seed,  sow  it  thereon,  at  the 
rate  of  one  pound  for  every  sixteen  rods,  and  with  a  shovel  cast  the 
earth  out  of  the  alleys  over  the  beds,  covering  the  seeds  evenly  about 
half  an  inch  deep ;  then  rake  the  beds  lightly,  drawing  oft*  all  the 
lumps  into  the  alleys. 

When  the  plants  are  up,  let  them  be  kept  very  clean,  and  free 
from  weeds  of  any  kind,  by  a  good  careful  hand-weeding,  which  is 
to  be  repeated  from  time  to  time,  as  they  require  it ;  and  where 
they  grow  too  close,  thin  them  to  about  two  inches,  plant  from 
plant,  all  over  the  beds  ;  by  these  means,  you  will  have  excellent 
onions  for  the  table  the  first  year. 

Others  dig  the  ground,  leveling  the  surface  evenly  after  them,  as 
they  proceed  in  digging  without  raking  it,  and  lay  it  out  in  beds  as 
before  ;  then  sow  the  seed  thereon,  and  rake  it  in  ;  and  if  the  earth 
is  light  and  dry,  they  frequently  tread  it  in  with  the  feet  before 
raking.  Or  the  beds  may  be  prepared  as  in  the  first  instance,  and 
the  seeds  sown  very  thinly  in  drills,  either  of  which  methods  will 
do  very  well. 

But  when  they  are  raised  upon  an  extensive  scale,  the  ground 
may  be  cultivated  by  the  plough,  and  when  harrowed  very  fine,  the 
seed  may  be  sown  in  drills  at  any  convenient  distance,  and  the  inter- 
vals between  them  kept  clean  by  hoeing  ;  the  remainder  must  be 
carefully  hand -wed. 

Sowing  seed,  to  produce  small  seed  onions,  will  answer  better  in 
Afiril,  which  see Mf  sown  in  this  month,  they  would  generally  grow 
to  too  large  a  size  for  that  purpose. 

Of  the  several  varieties  of  onion,  the  Strasburg  is  the  best  for  a 
general  crop  ;  it  is  a  handsome  bulb,  generally  assuming  a  roundish 
oval  shape,  is  of  firm  growth,  and  keeps  well  for  winter  service. 

The  white  Spanish  and  silver  skinned  onions,  are  of  a  milder 
taste,  but  all  the  varieties  generally  turn  out  very  profitable  crops  ; 
the  latter  kinds  rarely  keep  so  well  after  January  as  the  Strasburg. 

The  Portugal  and  Madeira  onions  are  extremely  fine  ;  but  they 
rarely  attain  with  us  as  large  a  size  as  in  these  countries. 

The  red  Spanish  onion  is  highly  esteemed  for  pickling,  on  ac- 
count of  its  deep  blood-red  colour,  and  much  cultivated  for  that 
purpose :  it  may  also  be  used  for  any  other  purposes,  as  well  as  the 
former  kinds. 


MARCH.]  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN. 


Solving  Leeks. 

Leek  seed  may  be  sown,  and  treated  in  every  respect  for  the  pre- 
sent, as  directed  for  onion  seed. 

Planting  Seed  Onions. 

By  seed  onions  is  meant,  the  small  bulbs  produced  from  seed  sown 
last  season,  which  should  be  planted  out,  as  early  in  spring  as  it  is 
possible  to  get  the  ground  in  a  good  state  for  tillage ;  the  southern 
states,  in  particular,  have  to  depend  on  such  for  a  general  crop,  as 
the  summer  heat  is  too  powerful  in  these,  and  indeed  in  the  middle 
states,  except  the  ground  is  peculiarly  suitable,  for  the  bulbs  arriving 
at  a  sufficient  size  the  first  year  from  seed. 

Having  prepared  an  open  piece  of  strong  ground,  well  dug  and 
enriched  with  manure,  you  may  proceed  to  plant  these  bulbs  in 
rows,  either  by  line  and  dibble,  or  by  hoe  ;  planting  them  not  more 
than  half  an  inch  over  the  crowns :  let  the  drills  or  rows  be  six 
inches  asunder,  and  the  onions  three  inches  one  from  the  other  in 
the  rows. 

But  for  expedition  sake,  especially  when  there  are  large  quanti- 
ties to  be  planted  ;  prepare  an  instrument,  just  in  form  of  a  com- 
mon hay-rake,  having  four  round  teeth  or  pegs,  either  of  wood  or 
iron,  placed  in  the  head,  at  the  distance  of  six  inches  from  each 
other,  four  inches  long,  and  near  an  inch  in  diameter,  close  to  the 
head,  tapering  to  a  blunt  point :  'this  being  in  readiness,  proceed  to 
mark  out  your  ground  into  two  feet  wide  beds,  leaving  a  twelve  inch 
alley  between  each  ;  then  pull  this  rake  along  each  bed  from  one 
end  to  the  other,  pressing  it  down  as  you  proceed,  by  which  it  will 
make  four  regular  drills  in  each,  for  the  reception  of  the  small 
onions,  which  you  are  to  plant  by  hand  in  these  drills,  at  the  dist- 
ance above  mentioned,  and  just  so  deep  as  that  you  can  cover  the 
crowns,  by  drawing  a  little  earth  over  them  with  the  hand  as  you 
proceed". 

By  the  same  method,  you  may  plant  these  onions  in  beds  of  any 
dimensions  you  please,  either  lengthwise,  or  across  the  beds. 

The  Allium  canadensc,  or  tree  onion,  merits  culture  both  as  a 
curiosity  in  producing  the  onions  at  the  top  of  the  stalk,  as  well  as 
for  their  value  in  domestic  use,  particularly  for  pickling,  in  which 
they  are  excellent,  and  superior  in  flavour  to  the  common  kinds ; 
and  may  also  be  used  for  any  other  purposes  that  onions  are. 

It  is  perennial,  and  propagated  by  planting  the  bulbs  in  spring 
or  autumn,  either  the  root-jpulbs,  or  those  produced  on  the  top  of 
the  stalks ;  the  latter  if  planted  in  spring  as  directed  for  the  other 
kinds  will  produce  very  fine  handsome  sized  onions  of  excellent 
flavour. 

The  root-bulbs  encrease  greatly  by  offsets,  and  should  be  taken 
up  once  in  every  two  or  three  years^when  the  stems  decay  in  au- 
tumn, and  replanted  again  to  produce  a  supply  of  top-bulbs. 


190  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  [MARCH. 


Garlicky  Rocambole,  and  Shafts. 

Prepare  some  beds  of  good  ground,  four  feet  wide,  in  which  to 
plant  garlick,  rocambole,  and  shallots ;  of  which  procure  some  best 
bulbs  or  roots ;  divide  the  garlick  and  rocambole  into  cloves,  and 
the  shallots  into  off-sets,  as  they  admit ;  plant  them  in  rows,  length- 
wise the  beds,  eight  or  nine  inches  asunder,  by  six  inches  distance 
in  each  row,  and  two  or  three  inches  deep. 

They  may  be  planted  either  with  a  dibble  or  in  drills  drawn  with 
a  hoe. 

Gives,  or  Chives. 

Gives,  a  small  species  of  onion,  growing  in  large  tufts,  are  use- 
ful in  a  family  in  the  spring,  Sec.  as  a  substitute  for  young  onions, 
both  in  sallads  and  culinary  purposes ;  they  are  propagated  by  slip- 
ping the  roots,  and  this  is  a  proper  time  to  plant  them  ;  the  method 
is  to  part  or  take  off  some  slips  from  the  old  roots  several  small  off- 
sets together,  and  plant  them  in  beds  or  borders  about  six  to  eight, 
or  nine  inches  distance. 

In  slipping  or  parting  the  above  roots,  observe  to  preserve  eight, 
ten,  or  more,  of  the  small  bulbs  together  in  a  cluster,  and  in  that 
manner  to  plant  them. 

They  are  to  be  planted  with  a  dibble  or  trowel,  making  holes  for 
them  at  the  distance  above  mentioned,  putting  one  cluster  of  roots, 
as  above,  in  each  hole,  and  closing  the  earth  well  about  them.  They 
will  soon  take  root,  and  increase  very  fast  into  large  bunches,  of 
many  year's  duration. 

Turnefis. 

Sow  turneps  for  a  first  early  crop,  about  the  middle,  or  to- 
wards the  latter  end  of  this  month,  in  an  open  situation,  and  where 
the  ground  is  light. 

The  proper  sort  to  sow  now  is  principally  the  Early  Dutch  tur- 
nep,  it  being  the  best  sort  to  sow  at  this  season  in  gardens,  but 
especially  for  the  first  and  second  crops,  or  also  occasionally  for 
general  summer  crops,  in  garden  culture. 

Scorzonera  and  Salsafy. 

The  latter  end  of  this  month  you  may  sow  scorzonera,  and 
salsafy  ;  these  plants  are  in  some  families  much  esteemed  for  their 
roots,  which  are  the  only  parts  that  are  eaten,  except  the  salsafy, 
as  explained  below. 

The  roots  run  pretty  deep  in  the  ground,  in  the  manner  of  car- 
rots and  parsneps,  and  are  boiled  or  stewed,  and  eaten  either  alone 
or  with  flesh-meat,  like  young  carrots,  Sec. 

But  the  salsafy  is  estimable  both  for  its  roots  as  above,  and  for  the 
young  shoots  rising  in  the  spring  from  the  year-old  plants,  being 
gathered  while  green  and  tender,  are  good  to  boil  and  eat  in  the 
manner  of  asparagus. 


MARCH.]  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN. 

Dig  one  or  more  beds  for  each  of  the  above,  in  an  open  situation. 
Sow  the  seed  either  in  shallow  drills,  six  inches  distance,  and  earthed 
over  half  an  inch  ;  or  sown  on  the  surface,  covered  from  the  alleys, 
and  the  beds  then  raked  :  they  are  all  to  remain  where  sown,  and  the 
plants  thinned  in  May,  to  from  four  to  six  inches  distance. 

Large~rooted  Parsley. 

Sow  the  seeds  of  Hamburg,  or  large  rooted  parsley ;  this  is  cul- 
tivated for  its  large  parsnep-like  root :  let  the  seeds  be  sown  in  an. 
open  situation,  either  in  shallow  drills,  or  on  the  surface,  and  raked 
in  evenly  ;  when  the  plants  are  two  or  three  inches  in  growth,  they 
must  be  thinned  to  six  inches  distance,  that  the  roots  may  have  room 
to  swell. 

Skirrets. 

Skirret  seed  may  be  sown  tolerably  thin,  on  beds  of  good  earth 
and  raked  in ;  or  they  may  be  propagated  by  parting  their  roots,  and 
planting  them  at  six  or  eight  inches  distance.  The  fleshy  tubers  of 
these  roots,  are  considered  very  delicious. 

Solving  Parsley. 

Parsley  seed  may  be  sown  in  a  single  drill  along  the  edge  of  the 
quarters,  or  borders  of  the  garden  :  it  will  make  a  useful  and  also  a 
neat  edging,  if  not  suffered  to  grow  rank,  especially  the  curled  pars- 
ley ;  or  if  large  supplies  are  wanted  for  market,  it  may  be  sown  in 
continued  rows  nine  inches  asunder,  or  upon  the  general  surface, 
trod  down,  and  raked  in. 

Sowing  Chervil  and  Coriander. 

Sow  chervil  and  coriander,  for  soops  and  sallads,  &c. ;  draw  shal- 
low drills  for  these  seeds  eight  or  nine  inches  asunder :  sow  each 
sort  separate,  and  cover  them  about  half  an  inch  deep  with  earth. 

These  herbs  are  all  to  remain  where  sown,  and  the  chief  culture 
they  require  is  to  be  kept  clear  from  weeds  ;  but  as  the  plants 
soon  run  up  for  seed,  you  should  sow  a  small  portion  every  month. 

Crambe  maritima^  or  Sea  Kale. 

The  Crambe  maritima,  or  Sea  Kale,  being  yet  very  little  known 
in  the  United  States,  though  a  most  excellent  garden  vegetable,  and 
highly  deserving  of  cultivation ;  it  may  be  of  importance  to  the 
community,  to  give  some  account  of  this  plant,  and  the  most  ap- 
proved methods  of  cultivating  it. 

This  plant  is  found  growing  spontaneously,  though  locally,  on 
the  sea-shore  of  the  southern  parts  of  England,  as  well  as  in  simi- 
lar places,  in  many  other  parts  of  Europe. 

It  is  of  the  same  natural  class  as  the  cabbage,  but  differs  from  it 
and  most  of  the  Tetradynamus  plants  of  LINN^US,  in  having  a  round 


192  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN  [MARCH. 

seed  vessel,  containing  one  seed  only ;  its  root  is  perennial,  running 
to  a  great  depth,  growing  to  a  great  thickness,  and  branching  out 
•widely,  but  not  creeping  :  its  full  grown  leaves  are  large,  equalling 
in  size,  when  the  plant  grows  luxuriantly,  those  of  the  largest  cab- 
bage, of  a  glaucous  or  sea-green  hue,  and  waved  at  the  edges, 
thick  and  succulent  in  their  wild  state,  dying  away  and  disappearing 
entirely  at  the  approach  of  winter.  Seedling  plants,  when  raised 
in  spring,  produce  the  first  year,  radical  leaves  only,  the  second 
spring  most  of  them  throw  up  a  flowering  stem,  a  foot  or  more  in 
height,  which  expanding  into  numerous  branches,  forms  a  magni- 
ficent head  of  white,  or  cream-coloured  flowers,  having  a  honey-like 
fragrance  ;  these,  if  the  season  proves  favourable,  are  followed  by 
abundance  of  seed. 

As  an  article  of  food,  the  Crambe  maritima  appears  to  be  better 
known  in  England,  than  in  any  other  part  of  Europe  ;  it  is  in  that 
country  only  that  its  value  is  rightly  appreciated,  and  its  culture 
carefully  attended  to. 

On  many  parts  of  the  sea  coast  of  England,  especially  of  De- 
vonshire, Dorsetshire,  and  Sussex,  the  inhabitants,  for  time  imme- 
morial, have  been  in  the  practice  of  procuring  it  for  their  tables, 
preferring  it  to  all  other  greens  :  they  seek  for  the  plant  in  the 
spring,  where  it  grows  spontaneously,  and  as  soon  as  it  appears 
above  ground,  they  remove  the  pebbles  or  sand  with  which  it  is 
usually  covered,  to  the  depth  of  several  inches,  and  cut  off  the 
young  and  tender  leaves  and  stalks,  as  yet  unexpanded  and  in  a 
blanched  state,  close  to  the  crown  of  the  root ;  it  is  then  in  its 
greatest  perfection  :  when  the  leaves  are  fully  grown,  they  become 
hard  and  bitter,  and  the  plant  is  not  eatable. 

The  more  curious,  desirous  of  having  it  at  hand,  and  in  their  im- 
mediate possession,  have  now,  in  many  parts  of  the  maritime  coun- 
ties of  England,  introduced  it  to  their  gardens ;  and  in  Devonshire 
particularly,  there  is  scarcely  a  good  garden  to  be  found,  without  a 
plantation  of  it  for  the  use  of  the  table.  It  is  also  cultivated  for  sale 
in  various  parts  of  England,  particularly  Bath,  Chichester,  &c. 

It  is  to  be  observed,  that  the  Sea  Kale  is  delicate  eating,  only 
when  young,  and  that  it  is  highly  improved  by  being  blanched:  in 
the  cultivation  of  this  plant,  it  becomes  necessary  to  blanch  it  before 
it  is  fit  for  the  table  ;  to  effect  this,  it  must  be  covered,  in  some  way 
or  other,  before  the  flowering  stem,  which  constitutes  the  chief  eat- 
able part,  and  its  attendant  leaves  show  the  least  sign  of  emerging 
from  the  crown  of  the  root. 

Cultivators  have  differed  widely  respecting  the  mode  of  treating 
this  plant ;  many  conceiving  that  stones,  or  gravel,  and  sea-sand, 
are  essential  to  its  growth,  have  gone  to  the  expence  of  providing  it 
with  such,  not  aware  that  it  will  grow  much  more  luxuriantly,  on  a 
rich  sandy  loam,  where  the  roots  can  penetrate  to  a  great  depth, 
without  reaching  the  water,  in  which,  if  they  are  immersed,  they 
are  apt  to  rot :  the  plant  will  succeed  almost  in  any  soil,  provided  it 
be  dry  ;  its  luxuriance  will  depend  chiefly  on  the  manure  with  which 
the  soil  is  enriched ;  but,  of  all  others,  a  deep,  rich,  sandy  loam, 
is  its  favourite  soil. 


MARCH.]  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  193 

The  most  usual  mode  of  raising  the  Sea  Kale,  is  from  seed ;  it 
may  also  be  raised  from  cuttings  of  the  root,  and  that  with  the 
greatest  certainty,  but  seedlings  make  the  finest  plants.  Some  find 
a  difficulty  in  making  the  seeds  vegetate ;  this  may  be  attributed  to 
their  being  old,  buried  too  deep  in  the  earth,  or  sown  too  late  in  the 
spring  :  the  most  proper  time  for  sowing  the  seed  is  in  October,  or 
as  early  in  the  spring  as  the  ground  can  be  got  in  a  fit  condition  to 
receive  them,  and  an  inch  is  the  proper  depth  to  cover  them ;  they 
rarely  vegetate  in  less  than  six  weeks,  after  been  sown,  even  in  the 
most  favourable  season,  and  some  will  remain  in  the  ground  for 
twelve  months  before  they  vegetate  :  should  the  season  prove  dry, 
it  will  be  necessary  to  water  the  ground  where  the  seeds  are  sown, 
and  the  plants  after  they  appear,  frequently. 

It  is  the  best  practise  to  raise  young  plants  immediately  from, 
seed,  on  the  bed  where  they  are  intended  to  remain  ;  by  this  means 
the  plants  receive  no  check  in  their  growth.  When  you  have 
formed  your  bed,  which  should  be  raised  somewhat  above  the  level 
of  the  ground,  being  previously  trenched  very  deep  and  enriched 
with  the  best  rotten  manure ;  make  each  bed^wide  enough  to  hold 
two  rows  of  plants,  the  space  between  each  plant  in  the  row,  four- 
teen inches,  and  between  each  row,  a  foot  and  a  half ;  sow  about  six 
or  eight  seeds,  as  before  directed,  on  each  spot  where  your  plant  is 
intended  to  remain ;  this  number  is  directed,  in  order  to  guard 
against  accidents,  as  every  seed  may  not  vegitate,  or  at  least  not  the 
first  season,  which  would  be  loosing  a  year,  besides  some  of  those 
that  do,  may  be  destroyed  by  worms  or  insects  ;  should  all  of  them 
succeed  they  are  easily  reduced  to  a  single  plant,  this  reduction 
however  need  not  be  made  too  hastily  ;  during  summer  your  bed 
of  course  must  be  kept  perfectly  clean  from  weeds.  If  for  the  sake 
of  a  more  certain  crop,  you  are  disposed  to  make  your  plantation 
of  the  cuttings  of  the  roots,  you  may  take  such  as  are  about  half  an 
inch  or  a  little  more  in  diameter,  and  cut  them  into  pieces  of  about 
two  inches  in  length,  burying  each  in  an  upright  position  about 
three  inches  under  ground,  in  the  same  kind  of  bed  and  at  the  same 
distances,  as  you  would  have  sown  the  seeds  ;  the  middle  or  latter 
end  of  this  month  will  be  a  proper  season  in  the  middle  states  for 
doing  this,  earlier  in  the  southern  states,  and  somewhat  later  in  the 
eastern. 

Or  if  for  the  sake  of  for  warding  your  plantation  and  gaining  time, 
you  make  use  of  plants  instead  of  seeds,  or  cuttings,  presuming 
that  it  is  possible  for  you  to  procure  them,  they  should  be  those  of 
a  year  old,  and  taken  up  with  due  care  out  of  the  seed  bed ;  trim 
off  the  extreme  part  of  the  root,  and  let  each  plant  be  planted  in  a 
perpendicular  manner  so  deep,  as  that  its  crown  will  be  one  inch 
under  the  surface ;  the  period  before  mentioned  for  planting  cut- 
tings will  be  the  proper  time  for  transplanting  these  ;  if  their  flow- 
ering stalks  be  cut  for  food  the  same  season,  it  will  weaken  the 
plants  considerably,  and  hence  even  in  point  of  time  there  is  little 
gained  by  using  such,  for  most  of  the  seedling  plants  in  your  bed, 
if  they  have  been  properly  managed,  as  well  as  your  plants  from 
cuttings,  will  flower,  and  of  course,  be  fit  to  cut  the  second  year. 

c  c 


194  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN. 

In  November  cover  your  beds  with  a  thick  coat  of  rotten  dung  or 
leaves,  this  at  the  same  time  that  it  protects  your  plants  from 
frost,  will  bring  them  forwarder,  and  add  to  their  luxuriance  j  about 
the  middle  of  March  in  the  middle  states,  it  will  be  necessary  to 
cover  your  plants  for  blanching,  the  readiest  mode  of  doing  which, 
is  to  draw  the  earth  up  with  a  hoe  over  the  crown  of  the  root,  so- 
that  each  plant  shall  be  covered  to  the  depth  of  ten  or  twelve  inches ; 
some  blanch  it  by  heaping  on  it  sea-sand,  some  common  sand  and 
pebbles,  and  others  with  large  garden  pots  inverted,  and  placed  im- 
mediately over  the  plants,  stopping  up  the  holes  at  the  bottoms, 
and  this  last  is  the  neatest  and  cleanest  mode. 

The  finest  or  at  least  the  largest  Sea  Kale,  is  that  which  is  produced 
from  seedling  plants  the  first  year  of  their  flowering,  as  the  great 
produce  of  the  plant  then  centres  in  one  flowering  stem  ;  afterwards 
the  crown  of  the  root  ramifying  into  many  heads,  a  greater  number 
of  stalks  are  produced,  which  are  more  slender  but  not  less  delicate. 
When  your  plants  have  been  covered  in  either  method,  three, 
four,  or  five  weeks,  according  to  the  early  or  late  period  of  covering, 
examine  them,  and  if  you  find  that  the  stalks  have  shot  up  three  or 
four  inches,  you  may  begin  cutting ;  should  you  wait  till  all  the 
shoots  are  of  a  considerable  length,  your  crop  will  come  in  too  much 
at  once,  for  in  this  plant  there  is  not  that  succession  of  growth 
which  there  is  in  Asparagus ;  you  may  continue  cutting  till  you  see 
the  head  of  flowers  begin  to  form,  and  if  at  this  time  you  uncover 
it  entirely,  and  let  it  prooceed  to  that  state  in  which  Brocoli  is  usu- 
ally cut,  and  use  it  as  such,  you  will  find  it  an  excellent  substitute, 
and  this  greatly  enhances  the  value  of  the  plant,  as  Brocoli  does  not 
stand  our  winter  fiost,  and  can  only  be  had  when  carefully  protected 
as  directed  in  November,  but  this  plant  is  sufficiently  hardy  to  bear 
our  severest  frost,  without  much  injury.  You  are  not  to  weaken 
the  roots  too  much  by  over-cutting,  for  in  that  case  you  would  in- 
jure their  next  year's  bearing;  they  are  to  be  indulged,  as  you  do 
asparagus  with  several  uncut  shoots,  to  grow  up  during  summer, 
to  carry  on  a  proper  vegetation,  to  strengthen  and  enlarge  the  roots. 

Such  as  are  partial  to  this  plant  may  force  it  in  any  of  the  winter 
or  early  spring  months,  nothing  more  being  necessary  than  to  place 
over  each  plant  a  large  garden  pot,  as  in  one  of  the  modes  of  blanch- 
ing already  recommended,  and  cover  the  pots  with  a  sufficient  quan- 
tity of  hot  horse  dung,  the  heat  of  the  dung  brings  forward  the  plant, 
while  the  pot  keeps  it  from  coming  in  contact  therewith  ;  and  as 
the  growth  of  the  plant  is  by  this  means  greatly  accelerated,  it  is  of 
course  rendered  more  tender,  as  well  as  sweeter. 

These  plants  may  also  be  forced  in  frames  as  directed  in  January 
and  February  for  asparagus,  observing  to  take  up  such  plants  for 
this  purpose  as  are  sure  to  flower,  trimming  their  side  roots  and 
shortening  their  long  tap-roots  to  the  length  of  nine  or  ten  inches, 
or  twelve  in  very  large  plants,  and  placing  them  in  a  frame  on  a 
hot-bed,  and  in  a  suitable  depth  of  earth,  at  the  distance  of  four  to 
six  inches  asunder ;  as  the  plants  used  thus,  will  be  rendered  of 
little  or  no  value,  where  this  practice  is  used,  it  will  be  necessary, 
to  have  a  regular  succession  of  plants  for  the  purpose. 


MARCH.]  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  195 

In  cutting  the  plants  for  the  table,  care  must  be  taken  not  to 
injure  the  crowns  of  the  roots,  by  cutting  the  shoots  too  close  to 
them. 

The  sooner  this  delicious  esculent  is  dressed,  after  it  is  cut,  the 
better.  Twenty  minutes  boiling,  in  general,  is  sufficient  to  make 
it  tender ;  this  process  is  the  more  to  be  attended  to,  as  the  good- 
ness of  the  article  greatly  depends  on  itj  that  which  is  young, 
recently  cut,  or  forced,  will  be  done  in  less  time ;  when  properly 
boiled  it  is  to  be  served  up,  in  the  manner  of  asparagus ;  it  dresses 
well  by  stewing,  and  makes  an  excellent  pickle. 

As  an  esculent  vegetable  it  is  found  to  be  very  wholesome,  and 
most  people  who  have  tried  it,  prefer  it  to  asparagus,  to  which  it  is 
related,  in  point  of  flavour. 

When  the  crop  is  sufficiently  cut,  level  the  earth  all  over  the  beds, 
keep  them  free  from  large  weeds  during  the  remainder  of  the  sea- 
son, and  cover  them  in  November  as  before  directed. 

This  plant  will  grow  extremely  well  in  such  soil  as  suits  aspara- 
gus, having  it  prepared  in  the  same  manner  as  for  that,  and  would 
be  very  profitable  to  cultivate  for  sale  near  cities  and  large  towns. 

Spring  dressing  of  Artichokes. 

As  soon  in  this  month  as  the  very  severe  frosts  are  over,  any 
long  light  litter  with  which  your  artichokes  are  covered,  must  be 
raked  off  into  the  trenches  ;  and  when  you  perceive  the  young  shoots 
beginning  to  appear  above  ground,  or  rather  one  or  two  inches 
up,  not  before,  proceed  to  levelling  down  the  beds  into  the  alleys 
or  trenches,  rounding  them  in  a  neat  manner,  then  dig  and  loosen 
all  the  ground  round  the  plants,  at  the  same  time,  examine  the  num- 
ber of  shoots  arising  on  each  stoll  or  root,  selecting  three  of  the 
strongest  and  healthiest  looking  on  every  stool  to  remain ;  all  above 
that  number  are  to  be  slipped  off  close  to  the  root,  with  your  hand, 
except  you  want  such,  to  make  new  plantations  with  ;  in  which  case, 
any  extra  number  for  that  purpose,  are  to  remain  on  the  mother 
plants,  until  they  are  about  eight  or  ten  inches  high  from  their  roots 
or  junction  with  the  old  plants,  when  they  are  to  be  slifified  off,  and 
planted  as  hereafter  directed,  leaving  only  three  of  the  ,best  shoots 
on  each  crown  as  before,  closing  the  earth  in  again  about  the  crowns 
of  the  roots,  and  drawing  it  a  little  up  to  the  remaining  suckers.  Ob- 
serve that  in  every  part  of  the  Union,  this  dressing  is  to  be  given, 
when  the  plants  are  in  the  above  described  state,  whether  that  hap- 
pens in  February,  March,  or  April,  occasioned  by  the  difference  of 
climate,  or  the  earliness  or  lateness  of  the  spring. 

Planting  Artichokes* 

In  making  new  plantations  of  Artichokes,  select  for  that  purpose, 
a  piece  of  deep,  rich,  sandy  loam,  that  is  not  subject  to  retain  too 
much  wet  in  winter,  nor  to  be  parched  up  with  drought  in  summer, 
having  a  gentle  slope,  sufficient  to  carry  off  any  moisture  that 
might  lodge  in  the  trenches  between  the  rows,  for  that,  is  much 


196  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  [MARCH. 

more  destructive  to  their  roots  in  winter,  than  the  most  severe  frost; 
when  both  these  enemies  attack  the  plants  with  their  combined  pow- 
ers, they  seldom  fail  to  accomplish  the  work  of  destruction  ;  but 
from  the  frosts,  there  is  not  much  to  be  apprehended,  if  the  plants 
lie  dry. 

Having  fixed  upon  a  proper  soil  and  situation,  lay  on  it  a  good 
quantity  of  rotten  dung,  and  trench  the  ground  one  good  spade  or 
eighteen  inches  deep,  incorporating  the  manure  well  therewith,  and 
pulverizing  the  ground  effectually  in  the  digging  ;  then  proceed  to 
take  off  the  slips  mentioned  before  in  the  dressing  of  artichokes, 
slipping  them  off  the  mother  stools  with  all  the  roots  or  fibres  which 
they  may  have  thrown  out,  rejecting  such  as  appear  unhealthy,  and 
closing  the  earth  up  after  you  to  the  remaining  shoots.  These  be- 
ing provided,  pull  off  any  loose  hanging  leaves,  and  trim  the  fibres, 
then  plant  them  with  a  dibble,  about  four  or  five  inches  deep,  in  rows 
five  feet  asunder,  and  two  feet  plant  from  plant  in  the  row,  leaving 
part  of  their  green  tops  above  ground,  and  the  hearts  of  the  plants 
free  from  any  earth  over  them,  and  give  each  plant  a  little  water  to 
settle  the  earth  about  its  roots. 

Or,  if  you  have  seedling  year  old  plants,  in  a  seed-bed,  you  may 
take  them  up,  and  after  shortening  their  tap-roots  a  little,  and  dres- 
sing their  leaves,  plant  them  as  above. 

Such  young  plantations,  if  kept  clear  from  weeds,  and  now  and 
then  watered  in  dry  weather,  will  yield  good  artichokes  the  following 
autumn,  but  will  produce  larger  fruit,  and  more  abundantly  next  year. 
You  may  sow  a  small  crop  of  lettuce,  radish,  or  spinach,  &c.  the 
first  year  between  these  rows,  especially  if  you  wish  to  make  the 
most  of  your  ground. 

A  plantation  of  artichokes  will  continue  to  produce  good  heads, 
for  five  or  six  years,  but  it  must  be  observed,  that  if  you  wish  to 
have  a  succession  of  this  fruit,  you  must  make  a  small  plantation 
every  spring,  for  the  young  plants  will  not  produce  their  heads  in 
perfection  till  after  the  crops  of  the  old  standing  ones  are  over. 

Sowing  Artichoke    Seed. 

There  are  too  principal  varieties  of  the  Garden  Artichoke,  indeed 
Mr.  Miller  makes  too  species  of  them ;  the  Cynara  Scolymus,  or 
French  Artichoke,  and  the  Cynara  hortensis,  or  Globe  Artichoke. 

The  first  being  the  sort  which  in  former  times,  was  most  com- 
monly cultivated  in  France,  is  generally  known  by  the  title  of 
French  Artichoke.  The  leaves  are  terminated  by  short  spines,  the 
head  is  oval,  and  the  scales  do  not  turn  inward  at  the  top  like  those 
of  the  Globe  Artichoke,  the  heads  are  of  a  green  colour,  the  bot- 
toms are  not  near  so  thick  of  flesh,  and  have  a  perfumed  taste, 
which  to  many  persons  is  very  disagreeable ;  so  that  it  is  seldom 
cultivated  where  the  globe  kinds  can  be  procured. 

Of  the  second,  there  are  two  varieties,  the  green,  and  the  red 
fruited,  both  extremely  fine.  The  head  is  globular,  a  little  com- 
pressed at  the  top,  the  scales  lie  close  over  each  other,  and  their  ends 
turn  inwards,  so  as  closely  to  cover  the  middle. 


MARCH.]  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  197 

The  leaves  of  the  Globe  artichoke,  are  of  a  bluer  cast,  with  more 
and  deeper  jags  on  the  clifts,  than  those  of  the  French,  they  have 
small  inert  prickles,  like  the  latter  but  not  so  perceptible :  the 
leaves  of  the  French  sort  are  larger,  much  wider,  and  of  a  paler 
colour.  The  great  openess  of  the  scales  in  the  head  of  the  French 
artichoke  is  a  leadingcharacter  ;  it,  also,  rather  draws  up  to  a  point 
in  the  middle,  whereas  the  Globe  kind  is  quite  flat  at  top.  The 
colour  of  the  fruit  in  the  red  variety  of  the  Globe  artichoke,  is  a 
reddish  brown,  or  rather  a  dusky  purple,  with  a  tinge  of  green. 

After  the  above  descriptions,  it  will  be  unnecessary  to  recom- 
mend which  kind  to  sow ;  but  being  provided  with  good  fresh  seed 
of  either  sort,  that  you  desire  to  cultivate,  prepare  a  piece  of  ground 
as  directed  for  the  young  plantations,  and  at  the  distances  there 
mentioned,  sow  a  few  grains  of  seed  in  each  spot  where  a  plant 
might  be  set,  covering  them  about  three  quarters  of  an  inch  deep 
with  light  fine  earth  ;  when  they  appear,  keep  them  very  clean  and 
free  from  weeds  during  the  whole  summer  and  autumn,  and  in 
November,  you  will  find  the  method  of  their  winter  treatment,  as 
well  as  that  of  the  old  plants.  Any  extra  plants  that  may  arise,  are 
to  be  transplanted  into  new  beds  the  spring  following. 

In  the  course  of  the  season,  you  may  have  crops  of  cauliflowers, 
cabbages,  dwarf-kidney-beans,  spinach,  lettuces,  Sec.  &c.  between 
the  rows ;  keeping  them  at  a  sufficient  distance  from  the  young 
artichokes,  so  as  not  to  smother,  or  cause  them  to  draw  up  weakly. 

Or,  sow  these  seeds  in  a  bed,  so  thin  as  you  may  expect  the 
plants  to  rise  at  the  distance  of  six  inches,  allowing  for  imperfect 
seeds  and  accidents,  cover  them  as  above,  and  in  the  spring  follow- 
ing transplant  them  as  before  directed. 

Cardoons. 

The  Cynara  Cardunculus,  or  Cardoon  Artichoke,  has  been  a  long 
time  used  for  culinary  purposes,  such  as  for  sallads,  soups,  stew- 
ing,  See. 

The  stalks  of  the  leaves  being  thick,  fleshy,  and  crisp,  are  the 
eatable  parts,  being  first  blanched  by  landing  them  up  like  celery, 
to  two  or  three  feetr  high,  to  render  them  white,  tender,  and  of  an 
agreeable  flavour,  which  otherwise  would  be  rank  and  bitter :  they 
are  in  perfection  in  autumn  and  winter. 

Sow  the  seeds  towards  the  latter  end  of  this  month,  or  beginning 
of  next,  broad'cast  in  a  bed  of  rich  earth,  and  cover  them  about  three 
quarters  of  an  inch  deep,  when  the  plants  are  three  inches  high  thin 
them  to  four  or  five  inches  distance,  that  they  may  not  be  drawn  up 
weak  ;  keep  them  free  from  weeds,  and  towards  the  latter  end  of 
May  or  beginning  of  June,  they  will  be  fit  to  plant  where  they  are 
intended  to  remain  for  perfection.  For  their  further  treatment  see 
May,  Sec. 

Or,  as  these  plants  are  rather  impatient  of  transplanting,  you  may 
sow  the  seeds  at  the  distances  directed  in  May  for  the  plants,  a  few 
seeds  in  each  spot,  and  as  they  advance  thin  them,  leaving  only  the 
best  plant  in  each  of  those  squares. 


198  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  [MARCH. 


Alexanders,  or  Alexanders. 

The  Smyrnium  Olusatrum,  or  common  Alexanders,  are  used  for 
culinary  purposes  as  the  Cardoons,  and  blanched  in  like  manner. 
The  whole  plant  is  of  a  strong,  warm  and  aromatic  nature,  and  the 
leaves  and  seeds  are  sometimes  used  for  medicine. 

The  seed  of  this  plant  should  be  sown  in  autumn  soon  after  it  is 
ripe,  for  if  kept  out  of  the  ground  till  spring,  few  of  them  will  come 
up  till  that  time  twelve  months ;  however,  when  you  sow  the  seed 
in  spring,  let  it  be  done  as  early  as  possible,  and  sown  pretty  thick 
in  drills  eighteen  inches  asunder,  covering  the  seeds  near  an  inch 
deep  ;  when  the  plants  are  up,  thin  them  to  six  or  eight  inches  dis- 
tance in  the  rows,  and  as  they  advance  in  growth  draw  the  earth  up 
to  their  stems  as  you  do  to  celery,  in  order  to  blanch  and  whiten 
them,  that  they  should  be  crisp  and  tender  for  autumn  and  winter 
use  :  in  the  spring  following,  such  as  remain  will  shoot  out  again 
vigorously,  let  the  earth  then  be  hoed  up  close  to  each  plant,  and  in 
three  or  four  weeks  they  will  be  blanched  ancj  in  a  fine  condition 
for  use. 

When  these  plants  are  desired,  I  would  recommend  them  to  be 
sown  where  they  are  to  remain,  in  any  of  the  autumn  months,  in 
that  case,  they  will  rise  freely  in  spring,  and  become  fine  vigorous 
plants. 

Prbftagating  -various  Pot  and  Medicinal  Herbs. 

The  latter  end  of  this  month  will  be  a  good  time  to  plant  cuttings 
or  slips  of  hyssop,  thyme,  winter  savory,  rue,  rosemary,  lavender, 
wormwood,  southern-wood,  sage,  and  any  other  under-shrubby 
kinds  ;  in  taking  off  the  slips  of  any  of  these  sorts,  give  a  prefer- 
ence to  the  suckers  if  any,  that  is,  such  as  have  a  few  fibres  attached 
to  them ;  from  such  as  are  not  furnished  with  these,  take  off  slips  or 
cuttings  of  the  young  healthy  outward  shoots,  produced  last  year, 
from  about  six  to  ten  inches  long,  according  as  they  occur,  observ- 
ing to  slip  or  cut  them  clean  off  close  to  the  parts  from  whence 
they  proceed.  Let  these  be  planted  in  a  bed  or  border  six  inches 
.apart,  and  inserted  two-thirds  of  their  lengths  into  the  ground  ; 
they  will  take  root  freely,  by  observing  to  water  them  in  dry  wea- 
ther, and  in  September  will  be  well  rooted,  and  may  either  then,  or 
in  October, be  transplanted  wherever  destined  to  remain  ;  or  the  slips 
jnay,  in  the  first  instance,  be  planted  in  such  places. 

Propagate  tarragon,  tansey,  chamomile,  common  fennel,  marsh- 
raallows,  pot-marjoram,  baum,burnet,horehound,  spear-mint,  pep- 
per-mint, feverfew,  officinal  scurvy-grass,  cat-mint,  celandine,  pen- 
ny-royal, or  Mentha  Pulegium,  angelica,  lovage,  gromwell,  and  any 
other  perennial  herbaceous  plants,  and  also  thyme,  hyssop,  and  win- 
ter-savory, by  parting  their  roots  or  by  slips  therefrom  :  the  best 
lime  for  separating  the  roots  of  each  and  every  of  the  above  kinds,  is 
just  when  they  begin  to  advance  a  little  in  growth.  All  the  above 
kinds  may  be  planted  in  four  fe.et  wide  beds,  in  any  tolerable  good 


MARCH.]  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  jgg 

ground,  having  twelve  to  eighteen  inch  alleys  between  ;  and  placed 
in  rows  lengthwise  in  the  beds,  allowing  proportionate  distances  ac- 
cording to  their  respective  growths ;  or  the  small  growing  kinds 
may  be  planted  in  borders,  or  any  other  convenient  places,  that 
are  open  and  well  exposed. 

The  best  time  to  gather  any  of  the  preceding  kinds  for  distilla- 
tion, or  to  preserve  in  a  dry  state  for  medicinal  purposes,  Sec.  is 
when  they  are  in  the  first  stage  of  their  flowering. 

You  may  towards  the  latter  end  of  this  month,  or  any  time  in  the 
next,  sow  seeds  of  either,  or  all  of  the  above  mentioned  kinds,  and 
also  of  the  following  annual  plants,  for  medicinal  and  culinary  pur- 
poses, viz.  borage,  sweet  fennel,  sweet  marjoram,  sweet  basil,  sum- 
mer savory,  fenugreek,  pot  marigold,  anise,  and  likewise  clary,  car- 
raway,  smallage,  and  fox-glove,  Sec.  the  four  last  are  biennials  and 
do  not  flower  till  the  second  year,  but  their  leaves  may  be  used  at 
any  time  when  arrived  at  a  sufficient  size.  All  these  seeds  should 
be  sown  separately  in  beds  of  rich  earth,  and  covered  from  the 
eighth  of  an  inch  to  half  an  inch  deep  in  proportion  to  their  size, 
either  in  the  broad-cast  way,  or  in  drills  ;  or  the  low  growing  kinds 
may  be  sown  in  single  drills  along  the  edges  of  borders,  particular- 
ly thyme,  hyssop,  and  winter  savory,  Sec.  and  when  the  plants  are 
arrived  at  a  sufficient  size,  they  may  be  thinned  and  transplanted  into 
any  beds  or  quarters  that  can  be  spared  for  that  purpose. 

Dill. 

This  plant  is  extremely  valuable  as  an  ingredient  in  pickles,  to 
which  it  gives  a  most  exquisite  flavour :  the  seeds  when  ripe  are 
frequently  used  for  that  purpose,  but  it  is  the  more  general  practise 
when  they  are  formed,  and  not  yet  perfect,  to  cut  off  the  umbels  or 
heads,  and  then  use  them  as  above. 

This  seed  should  be  sown  in  any  of  the  autumn  months  after  be- 
ing ripe,  and  will  come  up  the  spring  following,  for  when  kept  out 
of  ground  till  the  latter  period,  one-third  of  it  and  perhaps  less,  will 
not  vegetate  till  that  time  twelve  months  ;  but  if  sown  very  early  in 
March,  and  thick,  you  may  expect  a  tolerable  crop  that  season  ;  sow 
it  broad  cast  on  four  feet  wide  beds,  covering  it,  if  sown  in  autumn, 
half  an  inch,  and  if  in  spring,  a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep  ;  when 
the  plants  come  up,  thin  them  to  six  inches  distance,  and  the  same 
season  they  will  perfect  their  seeds ;  which,  if  any  are  suffered  to 
shed,  will  not  fail  to  come  up  plentifully  the  next  year. 

Finochio,  or  Azorian  Fennel. 

The  Finochio,  has  very  short  stalks,  which  swell  just  above  the 
surface  of  the  ground,  to  three  or  four  inches  in  breadth,  and  near 
two  thick,  being  fleshy  and  tender  ;  this  is  the  part  which  is  eaten 
when  blanched,  with  oil,  vinegar  and  pepper,  as  a  cold  sallad. 

For  the  cultivation  of  this  plant,  make  choice  of  a  good  spot  of 
light  rich  earth,  not  dry  nor  very  wet,  for,  in  either  extreme, 
it  will  not  thrive.  Sow  the  seeds  pretty  thin  in  shallow  drills 


200  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  [MARCH. 

about  eighteen  inches  asunder,  covering  them  half  an  inch  deep, 
when  they  come  up  thin  them,  leaving  the  best  plants  six  inches  dis- 
tant from  one  another,  about  the  beginning  of  July  your  first  crop  if 
sown  in  March,  will  be  fit  for  blanching,  at  which  time  you  are  to 
earth  it  up  as  you  do  celery,  and  in  three  weeks  after  it,  will  be  in  a 
good  condition  for  use.  To  have  a  regular  succession  of  this  plant 
some  seed  must  be  sown  every  three  weeks  during  the  season,  and 
your  late  crops  may  be  preserved  in  winter  as  you  do  celery. 

Capsicums  or  Red-peppers,  Tomatoes,  and  Egg-plants. 

The  different  varieties  of  the  Capsicums,  Tomatoes,  and  Egg- 
plants, being  in  much  estimation  for  culinary  purposes  ;  you  should 
sow  some  of  each  kind  now  in  pots,  and  forward  them  in  your  hot- 
beds, so  as  to  have  strong  plants  ready  for  planting  out  into  the  open 
ground  as  early  in  May,  as  the  night  frosts  shall  have  totally  disap- 
peared. Each  and  every  of  these  kinds  bear  transplanting  ex- 
tremely well,  and  from  this  sowing  you  may  expect  early  and  abun- 
dant crops.  For  further  particulars,  see  April,  May,  &c. 

Planting  out  Cabbages,  Beets,   Turneps,  tfc.for  Seeds. 

As  early  in  this  month  as  the  weather  gets  open,  and  tolerably 
mild,  plant  out  such  cabbages,  beets,  carrots,  turneps,  parsneps,  &c. 
as  you  have  preserved  during  the  winter  to  raise  seed  from ;  the  cab- 
bages are  to  be  planted  in  rows,  four  feet  asunder,  one  foot  distant 
from  each  other  in  the  rows,  and  up  to  their  heads  in  the  earth  ;  the 
others  may  be  planted  in  four  feet  wide  beds,  at  the  distance  of  ten 
or  twelve  inches  root  from  root  or  in  rows,  at  pleasure ;  observing  to 
tie  up  the  shoots,  to  stakes  placed  for  that  purpose,  as  they  advance 
for  seeding,  to  prevent  their  being  broken  down  by  winds,  heavy 
rains,  &c. 

Planting  Patatoes. 

Potatoes  may  now  be  planted  for  an  early  crop,  as  soon  as  the 
weather  opens,  and  that  the  frost  is  entirely  out  of  the  ground  ;  let 
the  soil  in  which  you  plant  them  be  moderately  light,  a  little  en- 
riched with  dung,  and  advantageously  situated. 

Be  careful  to  procure  the  earliest  kinds,  from  which  select  a 
quantity  of  the  best  formed  and  soundest  roots,  and  of  a  tolerable 
size ;  these  are  to  be  cut  into  sets,  a  week  before  planting,  in  order 
that  the  wounds  should  have  time  to  form  a  dry  crust,  for  if  planted 
at  this  season  immediately  after  being  cut,  they  would  imbibe  too 
much  moisture,  many  of  them  rot,  and  all  would  be  greatly  weak- 
ened thereby  :  cut  each  root  into  two,  three,  or  more  pieces  accord- 
ing to  their  size,  minding  particularly  that  each  cut  be  furnished 
with  one  or  two  good  eyes  or  buds  which  is  sufficient.  They  are 
then  to  be  planted  in  rows  two  feet  and  a  half  asunder,  the  sets  to  be 
nine  inches  distant  in  the  row,  and  three  or  four  inches  deep.  Should 
severe  frost  ensue  protect  them  by  laying  some  long  litter,  or 
wispy  dung  over  the  drills. 


MARCH.]  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  201 


Horse-Radish. 

This  plant  is  cultivated  by  cuttings  of  the  root,  either  cut  from 
the  top  an  inch  or  two  long,  or  some  old  roots  cut  into  pieces  of 
that  length,  or  by  small  offsets  that  arise  from  the  sides  of  the 
main  root,  retaining  the  crowds  or  top  shoots  OH  as  many  as  pos- 
sible. 

Being  furnished  with  these  sets,  choose  in  an  open  situation,  a 
light  and  rich  soil,  which,  trench  regularly  two  spades  deep,  at  the 
same  time  giving  it  a  good  dressing  of  manure ;  then  beginning  at 
one  end  of  the  ground,  range  a  line  and  with  a  large  dibble,  make 
holes  about  ten  inches  deep,  all  of  an  equal  depth  and  about  six 
inches  asunder,  dropping  as  you  go  on,  one  set  or  cutting  into  each 
hole,  with  the  crown  upright,  taking  care  to  fill  or  close  the  holes 
up  properly  with  the  earth,  and  let  the  rows  be  two  feet  asunder. 
Or  you  may  plant  them  as  you  advance  in  the  digging  or  trenching 
of  the  ground,  at  the  same  depth  and  distances,  covering  each  row 
when  set  in,  with  the  earth  of  the  next  course ;  and  so  proceed  till 
all  are  planted.  After  this,  level  the  surface  of  the  ground  even, 
observing  to  keep  it  free  from  weeds,  until  the  plants  are  so  far 
advanced,  as  to  be  strong  enough  to  overbear  and  keep  them  down. 

With  this  management  the  roots  will  be  long,  straight,  and  free 
from  many  small  lateral  offsets  ;  and  the  second  year  after  planting, 
will  be  fit  for  use.  It  is  true  they  may  be  taken  up  the  first  year, 
but  then  the  roots  will  be  slender ;  therefore  it  is  the  better  way, 
to  let  them  remain  till  the  second,  when  they  will  be  in  a  fine  con- 
dition ;  and  if  in  taking  up  the  roots  you  take  care  to  leave  some 
offsets  still  remaining,  you  will  have  a  successional  supply  for  many 
years. 

Liquorice. 

The  Glycyrrhiza  glabra^  or  cultivated  Liquorice,  is  a  plant  that 
brings  enormous  profit  to  the  industrious  cultivator :  it  is  of  con- 
siderable importance  in  medicine,  and  consequently,  in  great  demand 
by  the  Druggists,  and  Apothecaries ;  and  also,  by  Porter  brewers, 
being  a  very  material  ingredient  in  that  article.  Of  4000  quintals 
or  nearly  two  hundred  tons,  annually  exported  from  Spain,  the  far 
greater  part  is  considered  to  be  purchased  by  the  Porter  brewers  of 
London.  About  Pontefract  in  Yorkshire,  England,  where  it  is  cul- 
tivated in  great  perfection,  an  acre  of  well  grown  Liquorice,  is  con- 
sidered to  be  worth  one  hundred  pounds  sterling,  therefore,  due 
attention  should  be  paid  to  its  culture  in  the  United  States,  where  it 
will  grow  to  the  greatest  possible  perfection  ;  thereby  to  prevent 
the  necessity  of  importing  large  quantities  of  it  annually  from 
Europe,  at  a  considerable  expence,  and  in  a  much  inferior  condition 
to  what  it  could  be  had,  if  cultivated  at  home.  In  hopes  that  this  may 
be  attempted  by  some  spirited  persons,  who  may  have  the  wellfare 
of  their  country,  as  well  as  their  own  at  heart,  I  shall  proceed  to 
give  the  method  of  bringing  this  valuable  plant,  to  the  utmost  per- 
fection. 

sd 


202  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  [MARCH, 

The  Liquorice  delights  in  a  light  sandy  rich  soil,  which  should  be 
three  feet  deep  at  least ;  for  the  goodness,  as  well  as  the  profits 
arising  from  the  culture  of  this  plant,  is  proportionate  to  the  size 
arid  length  of  its  roots ;  the  ground  in  which  you  intend  to  plant 
it,  should  be  highly  manured  and  well  dug  the  autumn  before,  that 
the  dung  may  be  perfectly  rotted  and  mixed  with  the  earth  ;  im- 
mediately previous  to  planting,  trench  the  ground  three  spades  deep, 
if  the  natural  soil  be  good  that  depth,  and  lay  it  very  light;  when 
your  ground  is  thus  prepared,  you  should  furnish  yourself  with 
fresh  plants,  taken  from  the  sides  or  heads  of  the  old  roots,  observ- 
ing that  each  has  one  or  two  good  buds  or  eyes,  otherwise  they  are 
subject  to  miscarry  ;  these  plants  should  be  from  six  to  ten  inches 
long  and  perfectly  sound. 

The  best  season  for  planting  them,  in  the  middle  states,  is  the 
latter  end  of  March,  or  just  when  their  buds  begin  to  show  symp- 
toms of  fresh  vegitation,  which  must  be  done  in  the  following  man- 
ner, viz.  first  strain  a  line  across  the  ground,  then  with  a  long  dib- 
ble, put  in  the  roots  so  that  the  whole  plant  may  be  set  straight 
into  the  ground,  with  the  top  about  an  inch  under  the  surface,  in  a 
straight  line  and  about  a  foot  or  a  little  more  asunder,  and  two  feet 
distance  row  from  row  :  you  may  then  sow  a  thin  crop  of  radishes, 
onions,  lettuces  or  any  other  small  growing  crops,  in  drills  between 
the  rows,  keeping  the  whole  clean,  particularly  the  rising  plants  of 
liquorice,  during  the  summer  and  autumn  ;  in  the  November  follow- 
ing, you  should  carefully  hoe  and  clean  the  ground  ;  the  shoots  and 
leaves  being  then  decayed,  cut  them  off,  and  spread  a  little  rotten 
dung  on  the  surface,  the  virtue  of  which,  will  be  washed  into  the 
ground  by  the  rains,  and  the  plants  greatly  improved  thereby. 

In  the  March  following  you  should  slightly  dig  the  ground 
between  the  rows,  burying  the  remaining  part  of  the  dung,  but  in 
doing  this  you  should  be  careful  not  to  injure  the  roots.  Let  nothing 
now  be  either  sowed  or  planted  between  the  rows,  but  keep  them 
always  clean,  and  in  autumn  when  the  stalks  of  the  Liquorice  are 
decayed,  cut  them  down  close  to  the  surface  of  the  earth  as  before. 

The  same  work  is  to  be  repeated  annually,  till  the  plants  are  three 
years  old,  when  they  will  be  fit  for  taking  up ;  that  is  slightly  stir 
the  ground  every  spring  and  autumn,  keeping  down  the  weeds  in 
summer  by  hoeing ;  but  after  the  first  or  second  year,  the  stalks 
will  shoot  so  vigorously,  as  soon  to  cover  the  ground,  and  greatly 
retard  the  growth  of  weeds. 

The  proper  season  for  taking  up  the  roots,  is  November,  for  they 
should  not  be  taken  up  until  the  stalks  are  fully  decayed,  nor  defer- 
red till  the  sap  begins  to  circulate  afresh  in  spring,  for  in  either  case, 
the  roots  would  be  apt  to  shrivel  and  deminish  in  weight,  which 
would  be  a  loss  to  the  cultivator,  as  it  is  by  weight  they  are  always 
sold. 

The  method  of  taking  up  the  roots  is  by  trenching  the  ground, 
beginning  at  one  side  and  opening  a  trench  close  to  the  first  row, 
three  spades  deep,  or  to  the  depth  of  the  roots  ;  at  which  work,  thr< 
or  four  spadesmen  are  generally  employed  at  a  trench;  one  go( 
on  with  the  top  spit,  a  second  with  the  next,  another  with  the 
third,  and  the  fourth  commonly  gets  to  the  bottom  of  the  roots, 


MARCH.]  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN".  203 

having  a  mattock  to  assist  him  occasionally  to  clear  them ;  as  he 
takes \hern  up,  he  throws  them  on  the  top  of  the  ground,  and  in  this 
manner  they  proceed  from  row  to  row,  till  the  whole  plantation 
is  taken  up. 

The  small  side  roots  are  then  trimmed  off;  the  best  divided  into 
lengths  for  fresh  sets,  which  are  to  be  carefully  preserved  in  earth 
till  the  time  of  planting,  if  not  planted  immediately,  and  the  main 
roots  are  washed  clean,  dried  and  tied  in  bundles,  for  sale. 

When  Liquorice  is  intended  to  be  cultivated  on  a  large  scale, 
the  rows  may  be  planted  three  feet  distant,  and  the  labour  of  hoeing 
performed  with  a  small  plough. 

If  not  sold  immediately  after  having  been  taken  up,  the  culti- 
vator must  be  careful,  not  to  suffer  them  to  be  put  together  in  large 
quantities,  lest  they  should  become  mouldy,  as  this  vegetable  un- 
less preserved  in  a  dry  place,  is  very  liable  .to  such  corruption. 

Rhubarb. 

There  are  several  species  of  this  plant,  but  the  Ehmm  ftalnia- 
turn,  or  true  officinal  Rhubarb,  is  that  which  merits  particular  atten- 
tion. It  is  a  native  of  China,  and  Russian  Tartary,  has  braved  the 
climate  of  St.  Petersburg,  grows  to  good  perfection  in  Scotland,  as 
far  North  as  Perthshire  (Lat.  56°) ;  also  in  England,  Turkey  and 
various  other  parts  of  Europe  ;  is  an  article  of  considerable  con- 
sumption, consequently  of  national  importance,  and  highly  deserv- 
ing of  attention  in  the  United  States-.  It  grows  to  the  greatest  pos- 
sible perfection  among  the  Tartarian  mountains,  from  Selin  to  Tibet, 
without  any  other  culture  than  what  is  afforded  by  the  scraping  of 
the  Marmots ;  and  shall  we  despair  of  bringing  it  to  perfection, 
where  soil  and  climate  is  perfectly  congenial,  and  nothing  wanted, 
but  the  enterprize  of  a  few  spirited  individuals  to  make  a  com- 
mencement ?  There  is  no  doubt,  that  if  the  culture  of  this,  and 
Liquorice,  were  duly  attended  to,  but  the  crops  would  more  than 
amply  repay  the  cultivators ;  and  although  a  partiallity  to  articles 
of  customary  culture  is  in  the  way,  it  is  to  be  hoped,  that  new  and 
necessary  plants  will,  from  time  to  time,  be  introduced,  and  culti- 
vated, with  advantage  to  the  individuals,  aad  the  nation  at  large. 

The  following  is  the  mode  of  its  culture :  having  procured  a  suf- 
ficient quantity  of  seed  of  the  true  kind,  select  a  piece  of  light  rich 
sandy  loam,  such  as  answers  for  asparagus,  and  after  giving  it  a 
good  coat  of  manure,  trench  it  two  or  three  spades  deep,  if  the  good 
soil  admits ;  after  which,  level  the  top  neatly,  and  lay  it  out  by  line, 
into  squares  of  four  feet,  at  the  angles  or  intersections  of  which,  ycu 
are  to  form  little  circles  with  your  finger  about  six  or  eight  inches 
in  diameter,  and  on  each,  scatter  a  few  seeds,  then  cover  them  with 
light  fine  mould  three  quarters  of  an  inch  deep.  The  seeds  should 
be  sown  as  early  in  spring  as  possible,  or  if  this  had  been  done  in 
November,  they  would  vegetate  in  spring  with  more  certainty  ;  when 
the  young  plants  appear,  keep  them  free  from  weeds,  and  in  dry 
weather  give  them  frequently  a  little  water,  but  not  much  at  a  time ; 
and  above  all  things,  protect  them  from  the  mid-day  sun  till  they  get 


204  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  [MARCH. 

considerably  strong,  for  if  exposed  fully  to  this,  during  their  infant 
state,  few  of  them  would  escape  destruction  thereby  ;  were  you  to 
place  a  piece  of  board  on  end,  about  fifteen  inches  broad,  and  two 
feet  and  a  half  high,  at  the  south  side  of  each  hill,  leaning  a  little 
over  the  plants,  this  would  answer  the  end  effectually,  without  de- 
priving them  of  the  benefit  of  the  circulating  air.  The  first  season 
is  their  critical  period,  having  survived  that,  they  have  nothing  to 
fear  afterwards.  Onions,  lettuces  or  any  other  low  growing  crops, 
may  be  either  sown  or  planted  in  the  intervals  for  the  first  year,  so 
that  they  are  kept  at  a  proper  distance  from  the  young  plants.  The 
supernumerary  plants,  one  being  sufficient  to  be  left  in  each  of  these 
places  for  ultimate  perfection,  may  be  transplanted  the  spring  fol- 
lowing into  new  plantations,  similarly  prepared  and  at  the  same  dis- 
tance. 

The  November  following,  all  the  leaves  being  then  decayed,  cover 
the  crowns  of  the  plants  two  inches  deep  with  earth  from  the  inter- 
vals, and  if  there  is  danger  of  any  wet  lodging,  throw  up  trenches, 
rounding  the  beds  as  is  commonly  done  to  asparagus,  and  for  the 
first  winter,  lay  some  dry  litter  over  the  plants.  In  the  March 
following,  strip  the  covering  till  you  just  perceive  the  tops  of  the 
plants,  give  all  the  ground  a  slight  digging  and  dress  it  neatly  after 
you,  observing  to  keep  the  beds  well  hoed,  and  always  free  from 
weeds. 

Thus  proceed  every  autumn  and  spring,  till  the  roots  have  four 
years  growth,  when  some  of  them  may  be  taken  up  for  use  ;  but  it 
is  generally  admitted  that  their  medicinal  virtues  increase,  until  they 
are  eight  or  ten  years  old. 

You  must  be  very  circumspect  in  the  choice  of  ground ;  particu- 
larly, that  it  is  not  subject  to  lodge  wet,  for  this  plant,  by  no  means 
agrees  with  too  much  moisture ;  preferring  a  rich  dry  sandy  loam, 
to  any  other  kind  of  soil. 

Rhubarb  may  also  be  propagated  by  offsets  from  the  old  roots,  or 
by  sowing  the  seed  in  seed-beds,  and  transplanting  them  when  a 
year  old,  into  such  beds  and  at  the  same  distances  as  before  directed 
for  sowing  the  seed ;  but  they  always  produce  larger  and  better 
roots,  when  sown  where  they  are  to  remain. 

The  proper  time  to  take  up  the  roots  for  use,  is  in  autumn,  after 
the  leaves  and  stalks  are  totally  decayed  ;  when  taken  up,  wash  them 
clean,  trim  off  the  small  fibres,  and  lay  them  in  an  airy  place  to  dry, 
for  four  days,  then  rasp  off  the  outward  skin  which  greatly  obstructs 
the  quickness  of  drying,  from  the  pores  not  being  laid  open  for  the 
herbaceous  moisture  to  exhale  ;  the  mere  stripping  of  the  bark,  will 
not  be  sufficient,  the  rasping  it  off,  and  the  lacerating  of  the  out- 
ward part  of  the  root  adjoining  it,  will  be  necessary  ;  for,  the  lateral 
pores  must  be  opened,  to  permit  the  confined  watery  fluid  to  exude 
freely.  Then  cut  them  in  slices,  which  string  on  pack-thread  so  as 
not  to  touch,  and  hang  them  up  in  a  stove-room,  to  be  kept  con- 
stantly warm  till  they  are  effectually  dry.  Should  the  se&son  even 
prove  hot  enough  for  drying  them  in  the  sun,  the  former  method 
would  be  preferable  ;  for  by  exposing  them  so  much  to  the  sun  and 
light,  they  would  be  greatly  impaired  in  the  colour,  and  perhaps 


MARCH.]  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN. 

some  of  their  finer  parts  dissipated  thereby  ;  but  culinary  heat  is  free 
from  that  objection,  and  at  the  same  time  possesses  all  the  advantages 
of  quick  drying.  The  drying  of  the  roots,  without  suffering  them  to 
get  mouldy,  must  be  carefully  attended  to,  as  a  neglect  in  this  point, 
would  render  all  your  former  industry  fruitless,  and  it  is  considered 
among  the  cultivators  as  a  difficult  task. 

The  marks  of  the  goodness  of  rhubarb  are,  the  liveliness  of  its 
colour  when  cut ;  its  being  firm  and  solid,  but  not  flinty  or  hard  ;  its 
being  easily  pulverable,  and  appearing  when  powdered  of  a  bright 
yellow  colour  ;  on  being  chewed,  its  imparting  to  the  spittle,  a  deep 
saffron  tinge,  and  not  proving  slimy  or  mucilaginous  in  the  mouth. 

The  true  officinal  or  palmated  rhubarb,  has  numerous  root-leaves, 
large,  rough,  of  a  roundish  figure,  deeply  cut  into  lobes  and  irregu- 
larly pointed  segments  ;  on  long,  smooth,  round  foot-stalks.  Stem- 
leaves,  one  at  each  joint,  issuing  from  a  membranaceous  sheath,  suc- 
cessively smaller  upwards.  Flowers  surrounding  the  branches  in 
numerous  clusters,  and  forming  a  kind  of  spike.  Corolla  or  flowers, 
of  a  greenish  white 

This  species  cannot  be  mistaken,  if  you  attend  to  its  superior 
height,  the  ferruginous  or  reddishbrown  colour  of  the  stem  branches, 
and  petioles  or  leaf-stalks,  the  particular  palmate  form  of  the  leaves, 
and  the  elegant  looseness  of  the  little  pannicles  of  flowers  which 
display  themselves  on  erect,  round,  hollow,  jointed,  slightly  scored 
stems,  branching  towards  the  top,  and  from  six  to  eight  feet  high. 

The  Rheum  Rhajjionticum^  or  Common  Rhubarb. 

This  has  a  large  thick  root,  which  divides  into  many  strong  fleshy 
fangs,  running  deep  in  the  ground  ;  the  outside  of  a  reddish  brown 
colour,  and  the  inside  yellow,  from  which  arise  several  leaves  in 
number  according  to  the  size  of  the  root ;  those  come  up  folded  in 
the  spring,  and  afterwards  expand  themselves  ;  they  are  smooth,  of 
a  roundish  heart  shape,  having  very  thick  foot-stalks  of  a  reddish 
colour,  which  are  a  little  channeled  on  their  lower  part,  but  flat  at 
the  top.  When  the  plant  grows  on  rich  land,  the  foot-stalks  of  the 
leaves  are  near  two  feet  long,  and  thicker  than  a  man's  thumb;  the 
leaves  also  are  often  two  feet  long  and  as  much  in  breadth,  having 
several  strong  longitudinal  veins,  running  from  the  foot-stalk  to  the 
borders,  of  a  deep  green,  and  waved  on  their  edges,  having  an  acid 
taste,  but  particularly  the  foot-stalks,  which  are  very  frequently  used, 
and  much  esteemed  for  tarts  and  pies.  The  flower  stalks  grow, 
from  two  to  three  feet  high,  and  are  terminated  by  thick  close  spikes 
of  white  flowers.  Its  roots  afford  a  gentle  purge,  but  is  of  much 
inferior  quality  to  the  former,  and  may  be  cultivated  the  same  way 
as  directed  for  that. 

The  Jerusalem  Artichoke. 

e  Reliant hus  tuberosus,  or   tuberous  rooted  sun-flower,  com- 
ly  called  the  Jerusalem  artichoke,  "  this  root,"  says  Parkinson, 
antieut  English  writer,  "  our  ancestors  boiled  tender,  and  then 


206  THE  FRUIT-GARDEN.  [MARCH. 

being  peeled,  ate  them  sliced  and  stewed,  with  butter  wine  and 
spices. ...thus,  they  were  a  dainty  for  a  queen,  being  as  pleasant  as 
the  bottom  of  an  artichoke  :"  hence  probably  that  name  originated, 
as  they  bear  not  the  least  resemblance  in  growth  to  an  artichoke. 

The  roots  being  the  eatable  part,  are  large  fleshy  tubers,  much 
resembling  a  potatoe ;  are  in  perfection  in  autumn  and  all  the  win- 
ter, and  are  wholesome  palatable  food,  when  properly  dressed. 

They  are  raised  by  sets,  or  cuttings,  of  the  root,  preparing  the 
sets  and  planting  them  as  directed  for  potatoes,  in  rows  three  feet 
asunder,  four  or  five  inches  deep,  and  eighteen  inches  distant  from 
one  another  in  the  rows  :  they  encrease  abundantly,  will  thrive  in 
any  tolerable  soil,  and  cannot  be  easily  got  out  of  the  ground  again, 
for  the  least  bit  will  grow.  It  is  a  native  of  Brasil,  and  a  striking 
instance,  of  how  tropical  productions  may  gradually  and  successfully, 
he  introduced  and  naturalized  in  colder  climates. 

SOUTHERN    STATES. 

This  is  a  very  principal  month  in  the  southern  states  for  garden- 
ing :  all  manner  of  work  hitherto  directed,  may  now  be  performed 
there,  successfully.  In  South  Carolina  and  Georgia  they  may  now 
sow  the  seeds  of  melons,  cucumbers,  squashes,  tomatoes,  egg-  plants, 
okra's,  red-peppers,  &c.  as  directed  in  the  kitchen  garden  for  April 
and  May. 


THE  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

Pruning  Pears,  Plumbs,  Cherries,  Apples,  &c. 

AS  early  in  this  month  as  possible,  finish  pruning  your  cherries 
and  plums  ;  also  your  apple  and  pear-trees,  before  the  end  thereof, 
•whether  as  espaliers,  standards,  or  wall-trees.  Peaches,  nectarines, 
apricots,  almonds,  quinces,  &c.  should  also  be  pruned  early  in 
4;he  month,  if  not  done  before.  For  the  particular  method  of  prun- 
ing espalier  and  wall-trees,  see  the  Fruit-Garden  for  January  and 
February,  pages  17  and  128;  and  for  that  of  the  standards,  the 
Orchard,  pages  39,  133,  &c.  This  should  be  particularly  attended 
to,  and  the  pruning  of  all  kinds  of  Fruit-trees  finished  before  their 
buds  begin  to  push. 

,  t 

Pruning  and  training  young  Apricot,  Nectarine  and  Peach  Trees, 
&c.  for  Espaliers  and   Walls. 

Now  is  the  only  proper  time  to  head  down  young  wall  or  espalier 
trees,  &c.   preparatory  to   their  first  training :    such  as   apricot, 


MARCH.]  THE  FRUIT-GARDEN. 

peach,  and  nectarine  trees,  planted  against  espaliers  or  walls,  any 
time  since  last  October,  with  their  first  shoots,  from  budding  at  full 
length  ;  which,  when  a  year  old,  should  always  be  headed-down 
low,  to  force  out  lower  branches,  to  furnish  the  wall  or  espalier  pro- 
perly, quite  from  the  bottom. 

This  should  be  done  just  as  the  trees  begin  to  swell  their  buds  ; 
therefore,  watch  the  opportunity,  and  let  them  be  headed  according- 
ly at  the  proper  time. 

The  heads  should  be  cut  down  to  about  five,  six,  or  seven  eyes  or 
buds,  from  the  bottom  ;  and  if  there  are  two  shoots  from  the  same 
stock,  let  them  both  be  cut  down  as  above. 

By  this  practice,  the  trees  will  produce  some  strong  shoots  near 
the  ground,  whereby  they  will  be  furnished  equally  with  branches 
from  the  bottom  to  the  top  of  the  wall  or  espalier.  But  if  the  trees 
were  not  to  be  headed-down,  as  above,  they  would  run  up  with  a 
stem  like  a  standard-tree,  and  not  furnish  any  branches  below,  with- 
in two  or  three  feet  of  the  bottom,  whereby  the  use  of  such  part  of 
the  espalier  or  wall,  would  be  lost. 

Such  young  apricot,  peach,  and  nectarine  trees,  as  were  headed- 
down  a  year  ago,  and  having  each  produced  three,  four,  or  more 
shoots  the  last  summer,  should  now  have  these  shortened  to  such 
length,  as  may  encourage  each  shoot  to  produce  two  or  three  new 
ones  the  same  season. 

The  method  is  this :  let  each  shoot  be  shortened  generally  in 
some  degree  of  proportion  to  its  strength  ;  in  some,  pruning  off 
about  one-half,  or  third  of  their  original  length ;  and  in  others,  a 
little  more  or  less,  according  to  circumstances  of  growth  and  situa- 
tion on  the  trees  :  as  for  instance,  shoots  of  about  two  feet  may  be 
cut  to  ten,  twelve,  or  fifteen  inches,  or  a  little  longer  in  strong 
growths  ;  for  the  strongest  shoots  should  always  be  left  the  longest  ; 
and  those  about  twelve  to  fifteen  or  eighteen  inches,  pruned  to  six, 
eight,  ten,  or  twelve  inches  in  length  ;  snd  so  in  proportion  to  the 
different  lengths  and  degrees  of  strength,  and  particular  situation  of 
the  respective  shoots. ...See  January,  &c. 

By  this  practice,  each  of  these  shoots  will  probably  produce  two, 
three, or  four  new  shoots  the  succeeding  summer,  so  that  by  Octo- 
ber, each  young  tree  so  treated,  will  be  furnished  with  from  twelve  or 
fifteen,  to  eighteen  or  twenty  shoots,  or  more. 

The  trees  may  then  be  pruned,  according  to  the  method  directed 
for  the  older  trees  of  that  sort,  observing  still,  to  shorten  the  young 
shoots,  but  in  such  a  manner,  as  they  may  both  produce  fruit  and 
a  supply  of  young  wood,  as  in  the  full  bearing  trees  aforesaid ;  that 
is,  generally  to  prune  the  weaker  shoots  about  one  half,  the  stronger 
ones  prune  about  a  third  or  fourth  of  their  length,  according  to 
strength  and  where  situated,  and  the  situation  of  the  blossom,  and 
wood-buds  on  the  respective  shoots  ;  then  nail  them  straight  and 
close  to  the  wails,  or  tic  them  to  the  espalier,  with  willow  twigs,  &c. 
three  or  four  to  five  or  six  inches  asunder.. ..See  Fruit  Garden  in 
January t  $cc. 


208  THE  FRUIT-GARDEN.  [MARCH. 


Pruning  and  training  young  Afijile,  Pear,  Plum  and  Cherry  Trees, 
for  Espaliers  and  Walls. 

Any  young  dwarf  apples,  pears,  plums,  and  cherry  trees,  lately 
planted  against  walls  or  espaliers,  Sec.  or  still  remaining  in  the 
nursery,  with  their  first  shoots,  of  only  a  year  or  two  old,  entire, 
should  now  be  pruned  down  to  a  few  eyes,  that  they  may  put  out 
some  good  shoots  near  the  ground,  to  furnish  the  bottom  of  the 
wall  or  espalier  therewith. 

If  the  heads  of  these  trees  are  but  one  year's  growth  from  the 
bud  or  graft,  let  them  be  shortened  to  four  or  five  eyes ;  observing 
to  do  it  just  as  they  begin  to  form  buds  for  shooting. 

Suppose  they  are  two  years  from  the  bud  or  graft,  and  the  first 
shoots  were  cut  down,  as  above,  last  spring ;  let  the  shoots  which 
were  produced  from  them  the  last  summer  be  also  shortened  now, 
to  six,  eight,  or  ten  inches. 

The  same  rule  holds  good  with  these,  at  first  training  as,  men- 
tioned for  the  apricots  and  peaches  ;  for  it  is  on  shortening  properly 
the  first  and  second  year's  shoots,  from  the  budding  and  grafting, 
that  the  whole  success  depends  for  forming  a  useful  handsome 
tree  ;  as  when  a  young  wall  or  espalier  tree  is  well  furnished  with 
branches  near  the  ground,  these  will  readily  supply  you  with  more 
in  their  turn,  to  furnish  the  wall  or  espalier  upwards. 

But  in  the  common  course  of  pruning  apples,  pears,  plums,  and 
cherries,  their  shoots  and  branches  are  not  to  be  shortened ;  for 
after  the  young  trees  are  furnished  with  a  proper  supply  of  branches 
below,  their  shoots  must  then  be  trained  to  the  wall  at  full  length, 
only  shortening  particular  shoots  when  more  wood  may  be  required 
to  furnish  that  part,  or  where  they  grow  too  crowded ;  as  directed 
in  page  17,  Sec. 

Pruning  Fig -Trees. 

Some  prune  fig-trees,  the  latter  end  of  autumn,  which  is  a  very 
wrong  practice,  where  severe  winter  frosts  are  prevalent ;  as  the 
young  shoots,  which  are  the  only  bearing  wood,  are  liable  to  be  killed 
in  hard  winters.  If  they  were  pruned  in  that  season,  and  no  more 
left  than  what  might  then  appear  necessary,  and  severe  frosts  af- 
terwards destroy  many  of  those,  you  would  have  no  resource  left. 

Therefore,  the  better  way  is,  to  let  the  trees  remain  unpruned 
till  this  time,  and  if  some  had  been  killed  by  the  severity  of  the 
winter,  there  will  be  a  chance  from  among  the  whole,  to  find  a 
sufficiency  for  your  purpose,  that  have  escaped.  Observing  how- 
ever, that  the  sooner  this  work  is  done  after  the  severe  frosts  are 
over,  the  better;  for  if  delayed  too  long,  the  trees  would  bleed  and 
be  injured  thereby;  but,  in  the  southern  states,  the  late  autumn 
pruning  is  preferable. 

Fig-trees  agree  with,  and  in  fact  require,  great  heat ;  consequently, 
in  the  eastern  and  middle  states,  they  will  thrive,  and  bear  better, 
when  planted  against  walls,  board  fences,  or  espaliers,  in  warm  ex- 


MARCH.]  THE  FRUIT-GARDEN.  209 

posures  ;  therefore,  shall  give  the  method  of  pruning  and  training 
them  to  such. 

In  those  southern  states,  where  they  grow  in  the  open  standard 
way,  they  need  no  other  priming,  than  keeping  each,  on  a  neat  sin- 
gle stem,  free  from  suckers,  cutting  out  any  dead  or  ill  placed, 
wood,  thinning  the  young  shoots  where  too  crouded,  but  never  top- 
ping any. 

In  pruning  fig-trees,  you  must  leave  a  sufficient  supply  of  the 
last  summer's  shoots  from  the  bottom  to  the  extremity,  every  way, 
in  all  parts  where  possible ;  and  prune  out  the  ill-placed  and  super- 
fluous thereof,  with  part  of  the  old  bearers,  and  long  extended  naked 
old  wood,  to  have  due  room  to  train  the  proper  shoots,  so  as  the 
tree  may  be  equally  furnished  with  a  succession  of  young  bearers, 
at  moderate  distances  ;  for  these  young  shoots  bear  the  figs  the 
ensuing  season  ;  fig-trees  always  producing  their  fruit  on  the  one- 
year-old  wood  only. 

Leave  the  branches  and  shoots  in  general,  about  five  to  six  or 
seven  inches  asunder,  all  at  full  length ;  being  careful  to  prefer  the 
best  middling  strong  shoots  to  retain  for  general  bearers,  cutting  out 
the  improper,  superabundant,  and  useless  old  wood,  quite  close ; 
pruning  out  any  very  rampant  young  wood,  excessive  long-jointed 
shoots,  or  very  slender  infirm  growths  ;  leaving  the  most  promising 
and  firm  to  supply  the  general  expansion. 

Take  care  always,  to  train  in  every  year  some  young  shoots,  at  or 
near  the  bottom,  that  there  maybe  a  succession  coming  up  regularly 
one  after  another,  to  supply  the  places  of  casual,  long,  old,  naked 
branches,  which  will  occur  every  season  in  some  part  or  other  of  the 
tree  ;  for  such  long-extended  naked  old  branches,  or  others,  not  fur- 
nished properly  with  young  wood,  should  now  be  cut  out,  that  there 
may  be  sufficient  room  to  train  the  bearing  shoots  regularly,  and  at 
proper  distances. 

In  cutting  out  useless  large  branches,  either  too  long  extended, 
or  unfurnished  with  bearing  wood,  8cc.  let  them  be  cut  off  close 
to  the  places  from  whence  they  proceed,  to  some  convenient  lower 
young  shoots  or  branches,  leaving  no  stumps. 

The  young  branches  of  Jig-trees  must  not  be  shortened  or  tofified; 
but  leave  each  at  full  length  ;  for  if  they  were,  it  would  not  only 
cut  away  the  part  where  fruit  would  have  appeared,  but  also  occa- 
sion them  to  run  much  to  wood,  and  thereby  never  produce  half  a 
crop  :  so  only  cut  off  casual  dead  ends. 

The  tree  being  pruned,  let  the  general  branches  and  bearers  be 
directly  trained  in,  and  nailed  to  the  wall  or  fence,  or  made  fast  to 
the  espalier,  in  regular  order  ;  extending  them  horizontally,  at  equal 
distances,  six  or  seven  inches  from  each  other. 

Planting  and  propagating  fig -Trees. 

Plant  fig-trees  where  wanted,  this  being  rather  the  best  month 
in  the  year  for  removing  them ;  they  will  now  take  root  in  a  very 
short  time. 

E  e 


210  THE  FRUIT-GARDEN.  [MARCH. 

In  planting  figs,  you  may  either  procure  trained  young  trees  that 
are  arrived  to  a  bearing  state,  and  plant  them  at  fifteen  or  twenty 
feet  distance ;  or,  as  they  are  propagated  in  general,  either  by  the 
suckers  which  arise  from  the  roots  of  the  old  trees,  or  by  layers,  OP 
cuttings,  young  plants  of  these  may  be  planted  at  once,  where  they 
are  to  remain,  that  they  may  establish  their  roots  more  effectually 
without  being  disturbed  by  removal :  therefore  in  default  of  trained 
trees,  some  good  plants  or  suckers  of  moderate  growth,  and  such  as 
are  firm  and  well  ripened,  may  be  procured  and  planted  at  once 
where  they  are  to  remain  ;  and  others  may  be  planted  in  the  nur- 
sery, for  training  a  few  years. 

To  raise  them  by  layers,  select  young  branches  'of  one  or  two 
years  growth,  laying  them  in  the  earth  four  or  five  inches  deep, 
with  the  tops  as  erect  as  possible ;  they  will  be  well  rooted  by  next 
spring,  when  they  should  be  separated  from  the  old  tree,  and  plant- 
ed either  in  the  nursery,  or  where  they  are  to  remain. 

To  propagate  them  by  cuttings,  make  choice  of  the  ripest  and 
most  perfect,  of  the  last  years  shoots,  from  twelve  to  fifteen  inches 
in  length,  cutting  them  off,  with  an  inch  or  two  of  the  two  years  old 
wood  at  their  base  ;  leaving  the  tops  entire  and  uncut.  Plant  these 
cuttings  six  or  eight  inches  deep,  in  good  soil,  and  in  rows  two  feet 
and  a  half  asunder,  and  a  foot  distant  from  one  another  in  the  rows  ; 
here  they  may  remain  for  two  years  when  they  will  be  in  a  fine 
condition  for  planting  where  wanted. 

They  may  also  be  propagated,  by  sowing  the  seed  in  long  narrow 
boxes,  the  beginning  of  this  month,  placing  them  in  a  hot-bed  to- 
forward  their  growth  ;  and  about  the  middle  of  May,  remove  these 
boxes  into  the  shade,  where  they  can  have  the  morning  sun  till 
ten  o'clock,  and  the  afternoon  sun  from  four ;  giving  them  water 
when  necessary,  and  protecting  them  the  winter  following  from 
frost,  either,  by  placing  the  boxes  of  plants  in  the  green-house,  or 
in  garden-frames.  When  a  year  old  they  may  be  planted  out  as 
directed  for  cuttings,  and  treated  afterwards  in  the  same  way.  This 
will  be  the. best  method  to  obtain  new  kinds,  the  seeds  of  the  imported 
figs  will  grow  freely,  if  properly  treated ;  they  are  to  be  covered 
when  sown  only  about  the  eighth  of  an  inch  deep. 

Layers  or  cuttings  are  preferable  10  suckers,  as  they  are  not  so 
subject  to  produce  suckers  from  their  roots,  after  being  finally 
planted,  as  the  others. 

Fig-trees  may  be  trained  in  half,  or  whole  standards,  and  plant- 
ed, detached,  in  sheltered,  sunny  situations ;  keeping  them  free 
from  suckers,  permitting  their  heads  to  branch  regularly  around, 
and  they  will  produce  ripe  fruit  in  good  perfection  ;  they  produce 
more,  and  better,  in  a  strong  dry  loamy  soil,  than  in  a  sandy  parch- 
ed one,  (though  in  soil  they  are  easy  pleased,  provided  it  does  not 
lodge  water  ;)  for  when  planted  in  the  latter,  they  are  subject  to  cast 
their  fruit  in  May  and  June,  which,  under  such  circumstances,  in 
some  measure,  may  be  prevented  by  frequent  waterings  at  that 
season :  where  they  thrive  well,  they  usually  produce  two  crops  in 
the  season ;  the  first  on  the  former  year's  wood,  and  the  second  on 


MARCH.]  THE  FRUIT-GARDEN.  211 

the  young   shoots  of  the  present,   which  is  generally   the   most 
abundant. 

The  following  are  the  varieties  of  this  fruit,  that  are  generally- 
considered  as  best  worth  cultivating,  and  are  placed  in  the  order  of 
their  ripening. 

1.  The  brown  or  Chesnut-coloured  Ischia  Fig.    The  fruit  is  very 
large,  globular,  with  a  pretty  large  eye,  pinched  in  near  the  foot- 
stalk, of  a  brown  or  chesnut-colour  on  the  outside,  and  purple 
within  ;  the  grains  are  large,  and  the  pulp  sweet  and  high-flavoured. 

2.  The  black  Genoa  Fig.     This  is  a  long  fruit,  which   swells 
pretty  large  at  the  top,  the  lower  part  slender  ;  the  skin  of  a  dark 
purple  colour,  almost  black,  has  a  purple  farina  over  it,  like  that  on 
some  plums  ;  the  inside  is  of  a  bright  red,  and  the  flesh  is  ver  j 
highly  flavoured. 

3.  The  small  white  early  Fig.     This  has  a  roundish  fruit  a  little 
Ratted  at  the  crown,  with  a  short  foot-stalk  ;  skin,  when  ripe,  of  a 
pale  yellowish  colour,  and  thin  ;  the  inside  white,  flesh  sweet,  but 
not  high  flavoured. 

4.  The  large  white  Genoa  Fig.     This  is  a  large  globular  fruit,  a 
little  lengthened  towards  the  stalk ;  skin,  thin,  of  a  yellowish  colour 
when  ripe,  and  flesh  red. 

5.  The  black  Ischia  Fig.   Fruit  short,  middle  sized,  a  little  flat- 
ted at  the  crown  ;  skin,  almost  black,  when  ripe  ;  flesh,  of  a  deep 
red,  and  highly  flavoured. 

6.  The  Malta  Fig.     Fruit  small,   compressed  at  the  top,  great- 
ly pinched  towards  the  foot-stalk  ;  skin,  a  pale  brown  colour  ;  flesh, 
the  same,  and  very  sweet. 

7.  The  Murrey,  or  brown  Naples  Fig.     Fruit,  large  and  globu- 
lar, of  a   light  brown   colour,  with   some  faint  marks  of  a  dirty 
white  ;  flesh,  nearly  of  the  same  colour,  and  well  flavoured  ;  grains, 
large. 

8.  The  green  Ischia  Fig.     Fruit,  oblong,  almost  globular  at  the 
crown  ;  skin,  thin,  of  a  green  colour,  but,  when  fully  ripe,  it  is 
stained  through  by  the  pulp,  to  a  brownish   cast ;  flesh,  purple, 
well  flavoured,  and  will  stain  linen  or  paper. 

9.  The   Madonna  Fig.     Fruit,  long,  pyramidal,  and  of  a  large 
size ;  skin,  brown ;   flesh,   a   lighter   brown,   coarse,  and  of  little 
flavour. 

10.  The  common  blue,  or  purple  Fig.     Fruit,  purple,  oblong, 
and  small ;  the  tree,  a  great  bearer  and  very  hardy. 

1 1 .  The  long  brown  Naples  Fig.     Fruit,  long,  somewhat  com- 
pressed at   the  crown  ;  foot-stalks,  pretty   long ;  skin,  of  a   dark 
brown,  when  fully  ripe  ;  grains,  large  ;  flesh,  inclined  to  red,  and 
well  flavoured.     The  leaves  of  this  tree  are  deeply  divided. 

12.  The  yellow  Ischia  Fig.     Fruit,  large,  of  a  pyramidal  form  ; 
skin,  yellow  when  ripe;  flesh,  purple,  and  well  flavoured  ;  leaves, 
very  large,  and  not  much  divided. 

13.  The  small  brown  Ischia  Fig.     Fruit,  small,  of  a  pyramidal 
form,  with  a  very  short  foot- stalk  ;  skins  of  a  light  brown  ;  flesh, 
inclining  to  purple,  of  a  very  high  flavour ;  leaves,  less  divided 
than  any  of  the  other  sorts. 


212  THE  FRUIT-GARDEN.  [MARCH. 

14.  The  Gentile  Fig.  Fruit,  middle  sized,  globular;  skin, 
when  ripe,  of  a  yellow  colour ;  grains,  large,  and  flesh  well  fla- 
voured. 

The  preceding  are  all  varieties  of  the  Ficus  Carica,  or  common 
Fig-tree.  There  are  upwards  of  fifty  other  sfiecies  of  Fig,  describ- 
ed by  Botanists;  but  these  are  generally  cultivated,  either  on  ac- 
count of  their  timber,  or  as  curiosities. 

I  have  been  the  more  diffuse  on  this  article,  as  the  cultivation  of 
the  Fig,  and  its  different  varieties,  are  not  as  well  known  in  the 
United  States,  as  other  kinds  of  fruit-trees  ;  and  as  it  may  be  culti- 
vated in  the  greatest  perfection,  particularly  in  the  southern  states. 

Heading  down  Fruit-Trees. 

For  the  method  of  pruning  and  heading  down  the  various  kinds 
of  fruit-trees,  which  have  shown  symptoms  of  decay,  in  order  to 
attempt  their  restoration  to  health  and  bearing,  see  the  Orchard 
this  month. 

Preserving  the  Blossoms,  and  young  Fruity  of   Wall  and   Espalier 

Trees. 

It  often  happens,  that  at  too  early  a  period  in  spring,  we  have  a  for- 
ward and  untimely  vegetation,  which  throws  our  early  blooming 
fruit-trees  especially  those  in  warm  situations,  into  a  full  blow  of 
blossoms,  Avhich,  if  afterwards  attacked  by  frost,  proves  their  de- 
struction. In  such  cases  some  of  the  choicer  kinds  of  wall  and 
espalier  trees,  should  be  defended  therefrom,  with  mats,  Sec. 

The  mats  for  this  purpose  should  be  of  the  largest  size :  one  end 
of  them  should  be  fastened  with  nails  or  ttooks  to  the  top  of  the 
wall,  and  let  them  hang  down  over  the  trees.  The  lower  end  of 
the  mat  should  also  be  fastened  down,  to  prevent  their  being  blown 
to  and  fro  by  the  wind,  which  would  beat  the  blossoms  off. 

When  the  weather  is  mild,  the  mats  should  be  taken  off :  for  it 
is  only  at  night,  in  sharp  frosts,  and  cutting  frosty  winds,  that  the 
blossoms  require  to  be  thus  sheltered. 

Or,  to  preserve  the  blossoms  and  young  fruit,  you  may  occasion- 
ally stick  the  trees  with  the  cuttings  of  hardy  ever-green  trees  and 
shrubs,  sticking  them  between  the  branches  in  a  somewhat  spread- 
ing manner,  so  as  the  leaves  may  afford  some  protection  to  the 
blossom,  and  which  I  have  found  to  be  often  very  serviceable. 

This  should  also  be  done  just  when  the  trees  are  coming  into 
blossom,  having  cuttings  of  the  shoots  and  small  branches  of  laurel, 
yew,  pine,  and  some  other  hardy  ever-greens,  preserving  the  leaves 
to  them  ;  and  being  placed  between  the  branches  in  the  manner 
before  observed,  so  as  to  shelter  those  which  are  in  blossom,  they 
must  be  permitted  to  remain  constantly  till  the  fruit  is  fairly  set,  as 
big  as  large  peas. 


MARCH.]  THE  FRUIT-GARDEN.  213 


Planting  Fruit  Trees. 

Fruit  trees,  of  all  kinds,  may  be  planted  any  time  this  month, 
when  the  weather  is  open,  with  success,  but  the  sooner  in  the 
month  the  better,  before  they  begin  to  shoot ;  they  will  now  take 
root  in  a  short  time  ;  and,  with  the  assistance  of  a  little  water  in 
dry  weather,  will  grow  freely. 

Let  every  kind  be  planted  at  proper  distances,  both  for  espaliers 
and  walls,  and  also  in  standards,  that  they  may  have  room  to  grow 
without  interfering  with  each  other  in  the  course  of  a  few  years  ; 
which  is  often  the  case  in  many  gardens,  more  particularly  with 
wall  trees  and  espaliers. 

Peaches,  nectarines,  and  apricots,  should  never  be  planted  nearer 
than  fifteen  feet  asunder,  against  walls  or  espaliers  ;  nor  need  they 
be  planted  more  than  eighteen  or  twenty  feet  distance. 

Apples  and  pears  for  walls  and  espaliers,  should  be  planted  fif- 
teen, to  eighteen  or  twenty  feet  asunder;  but,  in  some  cases, 
twenty-five  feet  is  a  more  eligible  distance,  especially  for  some  sorts 
of  free-shooting  pears;  though  it  appears  considerable  at  first,  yet 
if  grafted,  &c.  upon  free  stocks,  they  will  readily  fill  that  space, 
and  bear  considerably  better,  than  if  confined,  so  as  to  require  to  be 
often  shortened  to  continue  them  within  bounds  ;  however,  gene- 
rally allow  those  on  dwarf  stocks  not  less  than  fifteen  feet,  the 
others  eighteen  or  twenty  feet  distance. 

Plums  and  cherries,  designed  for  walls  and  espaliers,  should  be 
planted  from  fifteen,  to  eighteen  or  twenty  feet  distance. 

The  above  distances,  advised  in  planting  the  different  sorts  of 
wall  and  espalier  trees,  appear  great,  when  the  trees  are  first  plant- 
ed ;  but,  in  a  few  years,  the  advantage  of  allowing  them  proper 
room  will  be  manifest ;  and  it  should  be  observed  to  allow  trees 
planted  against  low  walls  a  greater  distance,  than  for  higher,  in  or- 
der that,  in  default  of  height,  there  may  be  proper  scope  to  extend 
them  horizontally. 

For  the  particular  soil  and  situation  proper  for  the  different  kinds, 
see  the  Fruit-Garden  in  October  and  November;  and  also  the 
Orchard,  in  this  month. 

Having  the  ground  previously  well  prepared,  open  a  wide  hole 
for  every  tree,  about  a  spade  deep,  or  according  to  the  size  of  the 
root  and  loosen  the  bottom  well.  Then  prune  the  roots  of  the  tree  ; 
that  is,  cut  off  bruised  or  broken  parts,  and  trim  the  ends  a  little 
of  all  the  very  long  straggling  roots  in  general,  prune  out  irregular 
shoots  of  the  head,  then  place  the  tree  in  the  hole ;  break  the  earth 
well,  and  throw  it  in  equally  about  the  roots,  and  when  all  is  in,  tread 
the  surface  gently  around  the  tree. 

New  planted  fruit-trees,  should  be  well  secured  from  the  violence 
of  the  wind ;  if  they  are  all  standards,  in  exposed  situations,  let  them 
be  supported  with  stakes;  and  if  wall-trees,  Sec.  with  largish  heads, 
planted  against  walls  and  espaliers,  fasten  their  main  branches 
thereto. 


214  THE  FRUIT-GARDEN.  [MARCH. 

OCT*  As  the  seasons  for  planting  out  fruit  and  other  trees,  differ 
so  much  in  the  climates  of  the  United  States,  and  even  in  the  same 
place  in  different  seasons  ;  the  only  sure  guide  is,  to  plant  all  kinds 
of  trees  as  soon  as  their  buds  begin  to  swell,  or  rather  a  little  be- 
fore. 

Gooseberries  and  Currants. 

Prune  gooseberry  and  currant  bushes,  where  they  are  not  yet 
done  ;  but  let  this  work  be  finished  the  beginning  of  the  month. 

Keep  the  branches  thin,  and  the  middle  of  the  trees  open,  and 
clear  of  wood,  so  as  to  admit  the  sun  and  air  freely  ;  by  which 
means  the  fruit  will  be  large  and  well  tasted.  Observe  the  rules 
exhibited  in  January ,  page  24,  February,  page  130;  and  also  in 
October. 

From  the  beginning  to  the  middle  of  this  month,  is  a  good  time 
to  plant  gooseberry  or  currant  trees  ;  the  former  particularly  re- 
quire rich  ground,  plenty  of  manure,  frequent  culture  about  the 
plants,  and  to  be  kept  on  one  stem.  The  best  form  for  a  well 
trained  standard  gooseberry,  or  currant,  is  that  of  a  wine  glass  ;  if 
you  expect  good  fruit,  you  must  be  particular  to  keep  them  free 
from  suckers. 

Manure  and  dig  the  ground  between  the  gooseberry  and  currant 
trees,  which,  as  they  are  just  advancing  in  bud,  will  now  be  of 
great  service,  in  promoting  a  plentiful  production  of  large  good 
fruit. 

For  the  best  methods  of  propagating  gooseberries,  and  currants* 
See  the  work  of  the  Nursery,  for  this  month. 

Pruning  and  planting  Raspberries. 

Prune  raspberries  when  not  done  before,  agreeably  to  the  direc* 
tions  given  last  month,  page  131  ;  let  this  be  done  as  early  in  the 
month  as  possible. 

You  may  now  make  new  plantations  of  raspberries,  where  wanted. 
Observe,  that  it  is  the  young  shoots  or  suckers,  which  arise  every 
summer  from  the  old  roots,  that  are  to  be  chosen  for  this  purpose. 
These  should  be  planted  in  good  ground,  and  in  an  open  situation ; 
if  you  dig  in  some  rotten  manure,  it  will  be  of  considerable  service 
to  the  plants,  and  promote  a  production  of  large  fruit. 

In  choosing  the  plants  for  this  plantation,  observe  to  select  the 
outward  young  suckers,  of  strong  and  robust  growth,  all  of  last 
summers  production  ;  not  less  than  two  feet,  but  the  more  eligible 
if  from  three  to  five  feet  long,  with  strength  in  proportion. ...digging 
them  up  with  full  roots,  preferring  those  with  roots  the  most  fibrous, 
for  this  is  material  in  those  plants  ;  and  as,  sometimes,  one,  two,  or 
more  buds,  appear  formed  on  the  root  near  the  bottom  of  the  stem, 
for  next  summer's  shoots,  such  plants,  are  particularly  to  be  chosen, 
if  to  be  had. 

Previous  to  planting,  shorten  the  shoots,  cutting  off  about  one 
fourth  of  their  length,  trim  the  roots,  and  cut  away  any  old  stump* 


MARCH.]  THE  FRUIT-GARDEN.  215 

or  hard  woody  parts,  annexed  thereto ;  then  plant  them  in  rows  four 
feet  and  a  half  asunder,  and  from  two  to  three  feet  distant  in  the 
rows  ;  they  will  produce  some  fruit  next  summer  and  more  abund- 
antly the  second  year,  &c. 

Dig  the  ground  between  your  old  plantations  of  raspberries,  after 
pruning,  taking  out  the  suckers,  &c.  as  directed  last  month., 

Digging  the  Fruit -Tree  Borders. 

Dig  the  fruit-tree  borders,  as  early  in  this  month  as  you  find  the 
ground  to  work  freely,  previously  giving  them  a  good  dressing  of 
well  rotted  manure.  This  will  be  serviceable  to  the  trees,  the  bor- 
ders will  appear  neat,  and  be  ready  to  receive  any  small  crops, 
which  may  be  proper  to  sow  or  plant  therein. 

Strawberries. 

The  strawberry  plants  will  now  begin  to  push,  therefore  the 
sooner  they  receive  their  spring  dressing,  after  the  weather  becomes 
tolerably  favourable  the  better. 

Clear  the  beds  from  weeds,  and  the  plants  from  decayed  leaves, 
and  old  runners  :  it  is  most  adviseable  to  keep  the  plants  in  single 
bunches,  clear  of  each  other,  so  that  there  may  be  room  to  hoe  be- 
tween, and  occasionally  to  dig  round  them,  with  a  narrow  spade,  or 
trowel  ;  by  which  means  they  will  fruit  in  much  better  perfection, 
than  if  crowded  together. 

The  beds  being  cleared  from  litter,  loosen  the  earth  between  the 
plants ;  and  if  you  add  a  little  fresh  earth  from  the  allies,  &c.  to  the 
beds,  drawing  it  close  to  the  plants,  it  will  greatly  strengthen  them, 
and  cause  them  to  flower  strong  and  bear  plentifully. 

Strawberries  may  be  planted  about  the  middle  or  latter  end  of  the 
month,  but  if  planted  in  September,  or  early  in  October,  they  would 
bear  fruit  the  summer  following ;  not  but  those  planted  now,  will 
take  root  freely,  and  bear  some  fruit,  but  they  will  be  few  in  com- 
parison to  those  of  the  autumn  planting;  however  next  year  they 
will  bear  abundantly. 

The  proper  sets  for  planting  are  the  young  offsets,  and  runner- 
plants  of  the  last  summer,  which  procure  of  the  strongest  stocky 
growth,  from  beds  of  good  plants,  that  are  in  full  perfection  forbear- 
ing, and  not  from  worn-out  stools,  taking  them  up  with  good  roots. 

Prepare  for  these  plants,  a  piece  of  good  ground,  either  in  the 
main  quarters,  or  in  the  borders  ;  if  loamy  the  better ;  and  let  some 
rotten  dung  be  dug  in.  If  in  the  main  quarters,  divide  the  ground  into 
beds,  four  feet  wide,  with  alleys  eighteen  inches  wide  between  them,. 
or  they  may  be  planted  in  continued  rows  in  the  borders.  Plant  the. 
strawberries  of  the  scarlet  kind,  fifteen  inches  asunder,  and  allow  the 
same  distance  between  plant  and  plant  in  the  rows.  But  the  large 
kinds,  such  as  the  hautboy,  and  Chili,  should  be  planted  eighteen 
inches  distant  every  way. 

The  Alpine  or  prolific  strawberry,  should  likewise  be  planted 
fifteen  or  eighteen  inches  distant  every  way,  that  there  may  be 


216  THE  ORCHARD.  [MARCH. 

room  for  their  runners  to  spread  and  take  root,  this  kind  of  straw- 
berry, being  different  in  its  manner  of  bearing,  from  the  others  ; 
for  the  runners  often  yield  the  largest  and  fairest  fruit ;  this  kind 
continues  bearing  ripe  fruit,  from  the  latter  end  of  May,  to  October. 
A  farther  supply  of  bearing  strawberry  plants,  in  pots,  may  still  be 
placed  in  hot-beds,  and  hot-houses,  &c.  to  produce  a  succession  of 
early  fruit,  and  to  afford  a  sufficient  supply  till  those  in  the  open 
ground  ripen. 

Forcing  Fruit-Trees. 

Continue  the  care  of  fruit  trees  now  forwarding  in  hot-walls,  and 
forcing-houses ;  such  as  peaches,  nectarines,  cherries,  vines,  &c. 
let  the  fires  be  made  every  cold  afternoon,  and  morning,  but  regu- 
larly at  night ;  and  as  the  season  advances  in  heat,  and  the  sun's 
power  increases,  diminish  the  fires,  and  admit  more  air :  occasion- 
al waterings  will  be  very  necessary  to  encourage  the  fruit  to  swell 
and  grow  freely  ;  but  be  very  particular  towards  the  latter  end  of 
the  month,  when  the  sun  gets  powerful,  to  admit  air  in  proportion, 
and  to  manage  the  plants  in  every  respect  as  directed  in  February, 
page  132. 


THE  ORCHARD. 

Pruning. 

FINISH  pruning,  of  all  kinds  of  fruit-trees,  as  early  in  this 
month  as  possible,  according  to  the  rules  laid  down  under  the  head 
Orchard,  in  January  and  February  ;  to  which  I  refer  you  for  that, 
as  well  as  other  useful  information. 

In  those  parts  of  the  Union,  where  the  winter  is  very  severe, 
and  the  weather  changeable,  autumnal  pruning  of  fruit-trees  is  not 
adviseable,  particularly  of  stone  fruit ;  for  by  pruning  at  that  sea- 
son, especially,  if  many  limbs  are  cut  off,  you  are  apt  to  bring  on 
the  canker.  The  exposure  of  the  wounds,  the  almost  dormant  state 
of  the  sap,  together  with  the  additional  check  to  its  slow,  but  cer- 
tain ascent  to  the  extremities,  occasioned  by  the  amputation  of 
limbs,  Sec.  predispose  to  mortification  ;  whereas  in  early  spring, 
when  the  sap  may  be  expected  soon  to  follow  the  knife,  the  lips  will 
quickly  grow  and  heal  over. 

It  is  universally  admitted,  that  the  sap  continues  to  flow,  though 
slowly,  in  the  milder  parts  of  the  winter  days,  and  that  it  must 
rise  continually  during  the  winter  months  in  ever-green  trees, 


MARCH.]  THE  ORCHARD.  217 

otherwise  their  foliage  would  wither ;  and  also  in  deciduous  trees 
(that  is  such  as  shed  their  leaves  in  winter) ;  because  the  branch  of 
an  ever-green  tree,  will  grow  on  a  deciduous  tree,  and  not  lose  its 
leaves  in  winter,  as  the  Prunus  Lauro-Cerasus,  or  European  laurel, 
on  a  cherry,  and  the  ever-green  oak,  on  a  common  oak. 

When  pruning  is  judiciously  done,  and  at  a  proper  time ;  if 
the  branches  are  small,  a  fresh  bark  and  fresh  wood,  will  in  one 
season  completely  cover  the  wounds ;  but  if  large,  a  time  propor- 
tionate to  the  size,  will  be  necessary  for  their  covering  and  healing; 
this  process  however,  is  much  accelerated  by  the  application  of  a 
proper  composition,  which  excludes  the  air  and  wet,  protects  the 
vrounds  from  the  effects  of  the  various  changes  of  the  weather,  the 
surrounding  bark  from  any  injury  by  insects  or  worms,  and  yields  to 
its  growth  :  all  these  ends  will  be  effectually  answered,  by  an  applica- 
tion of  the  medicated  tar  prescribed  in  page  39,  and  applied  as  there 
directed. 

The  following  compositions  have  been  much  spoken  of:  I  shall 
therefore,  publish  them  without  any  comments  on  their  virtues, 
leaving  the  result  to  the  experience  of  those  who  have,  or  shall  have 
tried  them  ;  however,  I  must  observe,  that  the  methods  of  pruning 
old  or  decayed  trees,  recommended  by  MR.  FORSYTH,  and  ac- 
companying his  instructions  for  making  the  composition,  are  very 
judicious,  and  should  be  duly  attended  to,  whatever  composition 
maybe  determined  on,  for  use  afterwards. 

Royal  Gardens,  Kensington,  May  11,  1791. 

Directions  for  making  a  Composition  for  curing  Diseases,  Defects^ 
and  Injuries,  in  all  kinds  of  Fruit  and  Forest-Trees,  and  the  me" 
thod  of  fire  flaring  the  Trees  and  laying  on  the  Comfiosition,  by 
WILLIAM  FORSYTH. 

"  TAKE  one  bushel  of  fresh  cow  dung,  half  a  bushel  of  lime 
rubbish  of  old  buildings  (that  from  the  ceilings  of  rooms  is  prefera- 
ble), half  a  bushel  of  wood  ashes,  and  a  sixteenth  part  of  a  bushel 
of  pit  or  river  sand  :  The  three  last  articles  are  to  be  sifted  fine  be- 
fore they  are  mixed  ;  then  work  them  well  together  with  a  spade,  and 
afterwards  with  a  wooden  beater,  until  the  stuff  is  very  smooth,  like 
fine  plaster  used  for  the  ceilings  of  rooms. 

"  The  composition  being  thus  made,  care  must  be  taken  to  pre- 
pare the  tree  properly  for  its  ajtplication,  by  cutting  away  all  the 
dead,  decayed,  and  injured  part,  till  you  come  to  the  fresh  sound 
wood,  leaving  the  surface  of  the  wood  very  smooth,  and  rounding 
off  the  edges  of  the  bark  with  a  draw-knife,  or  other  instrument,* 
perfectly  smooth,  which  must  be  particularly  attended  to  ;  then 
lay  on  the  plaster  about  one  eighth  of  an  inch  thick,  all  over  the 
part  where  the  wood  or  bavk  has  been  so  cut  away,  finishing  off  the 
edges  as  thin  as  possible  :  Then  take  a  quantity  of  dry  powder  of 
wood  ashes  mixed  with  a  sixth  part  of  the  same  quantity  of  the 
ashes  of  burnt  bones ;  put  it  into  a  tin  box,  with  holes  in  the  top, 
and  shake  the  powder  on  the  surface  of  the  plaster,  till  the  whole  is 

F  f 


218  THE  ORCHARD.  [MARCS. 

covered  over  with  it,  letting  it  remain  for  half  an  hour,  to  absorb 
the  moisture  ;  then  apply  more  powder,  rubbing  it  en  gently  with 
the  hand,  and  repeating  the  application  of  the  powder  till  the  whole 
plaster  becomes  a  dry  smooth  surface. 

"  All  trees  cut  down  near  the  ground,  should  have  the  surface 
made  quite  smooth,  rounding  it  off  in  a  small  degree,  as  before 
mentioned ;  and  the  dry  powder  directed  to  be  used  afterwards 
should  have  ?,n  equal  quantity  of  powder  of  alabaster  mixed  with 
ir,  in  order  the  better  to  resist  the  dripping  of  trees  and  heavy 
rains. 

"  If  any  of  the  composition  be  left  for  a  future  occasion,  it 
should  be  kept  in  a  tub,  or  other  vessel,  and  urine  of  any  kind  pour- 
ed on  it,  so  as  to  cover  the  surface  ;  otherwise  the  atmosphere  will 
greatly  hurt  the  efficacy  of  the  application. 

"  Where  lime  rubbish  of  old  buildings  cannot  be  easily  got,  take 
pounded  chalk,  or  common  lime,  after  having  been  slacked  a  month 
at  least. 

"  As  the  growth  of  the  tree  will  gradually  effect  the  plaster,  by- 
raising  up  its  edges  next  the  bark,  care  should  be  taken,  where  that 
happens,  to  rub  it  over  with  the  finger  when  occasion  may  require 
(which  is  best  done  when  moistened  by  rain),  that  the  plaster  may 
be  kept  whole,  to  prevent  the  air  and  wet,  from  penetrating  into  the 
wound." 

Additional  Directions  for  making  and  using  the  Comfiosition. 

"  To  the  foregoing  directions  for  making  and  applying  the  com- 
position, it  is  necessary  to  add  the  following.'* 

"  As  the  best  way  of  using  the  composition  is  found,  by  experience, 
to  be  in  a  liquid  state  ;  it  must,  therefore,  be  reduced  to  the  consis- 
tence of  pretty  thick  paint,  by  mixing  it  up  with  a  sufficient  quantity 
of  urine  and  soap-suds,  and  laid  on  with  a  painter's  brush.  The 
powder  of  wood-ashes  and  burnt  bones  is  to  be  applied  as  before 
directed,  patting  it  down  with  the  hand." 

"  When  trees  are  become  hollow,  you  must  scoop  out  all  the  rot- 
ten, loose,  and  dead  parts  of  the  trunk  till  you  come  to  the  solid 
wood,  leaving  the  surface  smooth  ;  then  cover  the  hollow,  and 
every  part  where  the  canker  has  been  cut  out,  or  branches  lopped 
off,  with  the  composition  ;  and,  as  the  edges  grow,  take  care  not  to 
let  the  new  wood  come  in  contact  with  the  dead,  part  of  which  it 
may  be  sometimes  necessary  to  leave ;  but  cut  out  the  old  dead 
"wood  as  the  new  advances,  keeping  a  hollow  between  them,  to  allow 
the  new  wood  room  to  extend  itself,  and  thereby  fill  up  the  cavity, 
which  it  will  do  in  time,  so  as  to  make  as  it  were  a  new  tree.  If 
the  cavity  be  large,  you  may  cut  away  as  much  at  one  operation  as 
will  be  sufficient  for  three  years.  But  in  this  you  are  to  be  guided 
by  the  size  of  the  wound,  and  other  circumstances.  When  the 
new  wood,  advancing  from  both  sides  of  the  wound,  has  almost  met, 
cut  off  the  bark  from  both  the  edges,  that  the  solid  wood  may  join, 
which,  if  properly  managed,  it  will  do,  leaving  only  a  slight  seam 
in  the  bark.  If  the  tree  be  very  much  decayed,  do  not  cut  away  all 
the  dead  wood  at  once,  which  would  weaken  the  tree  too  much,  if 


MARCH.]'  THE  ORCHARD.  219 

a  standard,  and  endanger  its  being  blown  down  by  the  wind.  It 
will,  therefore,  be  necessary  to  leave  part  of  the  dead  wood,  at  first 
to  strengthen  the  tree,  and  to  cut  it  out  by  degrees  as  the  new  wood 
is  formed.  If  there  be  any  canker,  or  gum  oozing,  the  infected 
parts  must  be  pared  off,  or  cut  out  with  a  proper  instrument." 

"  Some  months  before  the  publication  of  the  "  Observations  on 
the  Diseases,  &c.  in  Fruit  and  Forest-Trees,"  I  had  tried  the  com- 
position in  a  liquid  state,  but  did  not  think  myself  warranted  to  make 
it  public  until  I  had  experienced  its  effects  through  the  winter. 
The  success  answered  my  most  sanguine  expectations  ;  and  I  have 
used  it  in  that  way  ever  since.  By  using  the  composition  in  a  li- 
quid state,  more  than  three-fourths  of  the  time  and  labour  is 
saved ;  and  I  find  it  is  not  so  liable  to  be  thrown  off  as  the  lips  grow,  as 
when  laid  on  in  the  consistence  of  plaster  ;  It  adheres  firmly  to  the 
naked  part  of  the  wound,  and  yet  easily  gives  way  as  the  new  \vood 
and  bark  advances." 

"  The  first  time  that  I  tried  the  composition  in  a  liquid  form  wa's 
upon  an  elm  which  had  been  planted  about  twenty  years,.  It  had 
been  very  much  bruised  by  the  roller,  had  several  cavities  in  it,  and 
was  very  much  bark-bound  besides.  Having  prepared  the  wounds, 
and  applied  the  composition  with  a  painter's  brush,  I  took  my  knife 
and  scarified  the  tree  in  four  places ;  I  also  shaved  off,  with  a  draw 
knife,  all  the  cankery  outer  bark,  and  covered  the  whole  tree  with 
the  composition,  shaking  the  powder  of  wood-ashes  and  burnt  bones 
all  over  it.  A  very  heavy  rain  began  in  the  evening  and  continued 
all  night ;  yet,  to  my  great  surprize,  in  the  morning,  I  found  that 
only  some  of  the  powder,  which  had  not  had  time  to  dry  and  incor- 
porate with  the  composition,  was  washed  off.  I  now  repeated  the 
powder,  and,  without  any  thing  more  being  done  to  the  tree,the  wounds 
healed  up  and  the  bark  was  restored  so  completely,  that,  three  years 
ago,  it  could  hardly  be  discerned  where  the  wounds  had  been. 
The  scarifications  had  also  disappeared.  Some  of  the  wounds  were 
thirteen  inches  long,  eight  broad,  and  three  deep.  Since  the  time 
when  it  was  scarified,  the  tree  has  increased  ten  inches  more  in 
circumference  than  a  healthy  tree  planted  at  the  same  time  with  it 
about  sixteen  feet  distant,  which  was  not  scarified. 

Barnes"**  Composition. 

"  Melt  together  in  a  large  earthen  pipkin,  two  pound  and  a  half 
of  common  pitch,  and  half  a  pound  of  common  turpentine,  then  put 
in  three  quarters  of  an  ounce  of  powder  of  aloes,  stir  them  all  to- 
gether and  set  the  matter  on  fire ;  when  it  has  fiamed  a  moment, 
cover  it  up  close  and  it  will  go  out,  then  melt  it  well  and  fire  it  again 
in  the  same  way,  this  must  be  repeated  three  times  (in  the  open  air) ; 
after  it  has  burned  the  last  time  melt  it  again,  and  put  in  three 
ounces  of  yellow  wax,  shred  very  thin  ;  and  six  drachms  of  mastick 
in  powder ;  let  it  all  melt  together  till  perfectly  well  mixed,  then 
strain  it  through  a  course  cloth,  and  set  it  by  to  cool." 

"  When  you  use  this  composition,  melt  a  small  piece  of  it,  and 
let  it  cool  till  it  is  just  sufficiently  soft  to  spread  on  the  part  where 
\vantedjbut  it  must  not  be  laid  on  very  hot." 


220  THE  ORCHARD.  [MARCH. 

When  any  of  your  old  fruit-trees,  which  you  particularly  esteem, 
appear  on  the  decline,  and  are  grown  thin  of  young  wood,  you  may 
probably  restore  them,  by  heading  clown  such  limbs  as  are  in  the 
worst  state,  to  those  parts  where  young  shoots  appear,  and  dose  to  the 
most  -vigorous  ;  but  be  careful  not  to  do  this  generally,  the  same 
season,  for  that  would  give  too  sudden  a  check  to  the  sap,  and  in  all 
probability  destroy  the  tree  totally.  But  if  every  other  branch  all 
over  the  tree  were  headed  at  proper  lengths,  each  close  to  some 
young  shoot,  new  healthy  wood  would  be  produced,  which  would 
soon  come  into  bearing.  The  next  spring  after  the  first  branches 
were  headed,  the  remaining  old  branches  may  be  cut  out,  as  directed 
above  ;  after  which,  the  head  of  the  tree  will  be  soon  filled  with  bear- 
ing wood,  which  may  afterwards  be  pruned  as  directed  for  other 
trees.  This  may  be  practised  on  either  standard,  wall,  or  espalier 
trees. 

Peaches  and  nectarines  will  require  to  be  treated  with  more  cau- 
tion than  any  other  kinds  ;  never  head  them  lower  down  than  you 
find  young  shoots  or  healthy  branches,  otherwise  you  will  endanger 
their  lives  ;  and  always  cut  close  to  the  most  vigorous  of  these,  in 
order  that  the  sap  may  be  drawn  that  way,  by  which  the  wounds 
will  heal  and  cover  over.  Indeed  this  caution  will  be  generally 
useful,  but  more  particularly  with  these. 

When  any  of  the  trunks  of  your  trees  become  hollow,  cut  out 
all  the  loose  rotten  wood,  and  also  examine  the  roots,  cutting  off 
the  injured,  rotten,  or  decayed  parts. 

As  you  proceed  in  pruning,  apply  to  the  wounds  either  of  the 
preceding  compositions  which  you  prefer,  in  the  manner  directed ; 
but  if  your  trees  are  annoyed  with  worms,  the  medicated  tar  is  de- 
cidedly preferable. 

Examine  now  your  fruit-trees,  particularly  the  peaches ;  and 
if  annoyed  with  worms  either  in  their  trunks,  branches, 
about  the  surface  of  the  ground,  and  a  little  under ;  pick  out  as 
many  as  you  can  with  a  sharp-pointed  knife,  and  with  as  little  inju- 
ry to  the  bark  as  possible  ;  scrape  off  clean,  all  the  gum  that  appears 
on  the  stem,  or  branches,  and  wash  all  these  parts,  and  any  other, 
that  you  suspect  to  be  infested  with  these  insects  or  their  embryos, 
with  the  corrosive  solution  prescribed  in  page  134,  which  you  may 
make  twice  or  three  times  as  strong  as  there  directed,  without  the 
least  fear  of  its  injuring  the  tree  ;  then  dress  the  wounded  parts  with 
the  medicated  tar,  as  there  directed. 

I  have  at  the  present  time  (January  1805),  and  have  had  for  seve- 
ral weeks,  the  roots  of  Polyanthus-Narcissus',  hyacinth's,  and  other 
bulbs,  growing  in  bulb-glasses,  filled  with  a  much  stronger  solution 
of  the  corrosive  sublimate,  than  that  prescribed  in  page  1 34,  and 
apparently  in  more  health  and  vigour,  than  those  which  are  growing 
in  pure  water :  I  have  also  washed  the  leaves,  stems,  and  branches, 
of  various  kinds  of  tender  plants  with  it,  poured  it  on  the  earth 
about  their  roots  in  large  quantities,  without  any  other  effect,  than 
the  destruction  of  the  earth  worms,  and  those  which  annoyed  the 
plants, 


WARCH-]  THE  ORCHARD. 

Be  very  cautious,  not  to  leave  any  of  the  corrosive  sublimate,  or 
solution,  in  a  careless  manner  in  or  about  the  house,  for,  with  re- 
spect to  animal  life,  it  is  a  very  active  poison  ;  so  powerful,  that 
when  administered  medicinally,  the  quarter  of  a  grain,  being  the 
two  hundred  and  fortieth  part  of  a  drachm,  is  considered  a  sufficient 
dose  for  an  adult  person. 

t    Extent^  Asfiectj  Situation^  and  Soil. 

The  extent  of  an  Orchard  should  be  in  proportion  to  tfre  quan- 
tity of  fruit  required,  either  for  family  use,  distillation,  cyder,  &c. 
or  for  public  supply  ;  and  may  be  from  half  an  acre,  to  a  hundred 
acres,  or  more. 

As  to  aspect,  that  is  not  of  as  much  importance  as  some  people 
imagine,  especially  for  apple,  pear,  and  other  hardy  fruit  trees  ;  for 
you  will  find  these  growing  and  bearing  fruit  in  the  greatest  perfec- 
tion, in  every  aspect  where  the  soil  is  suitable,  and  proper  care 
taken  of  the  trees  ;  but  the  more  tender  and  early  flowering  fruits, 
such  as  peaches  and  nectarines,  8cc.  will  require  to  be  planted, 
where  they  may  have  protection  from  the  cold  north  and  north- 
westerly winds  ;  which,  when  accompanied  by  frost,  often  do  con- 
siderable injury  to  their  early  bloom  ;  and  likewise,  it  will  be  ne- 
cessary to  give  a  warm  exposure,  especially  in  the  eastern  and 
middle  states,  to  late  ripening  kinds,  such  as  the  heath-peach,  See.  in 
order  to  bring  their  fruit  to  maturity  in  due  season. 

In  the  southern  states,  a  north  aspect  will  be  the  most  eligible 
for  apple  trees,  and  perhaps  for  several  other  kinds. 

With  respect  to  situation,  very  thriving  Orchards  are  frequently 
found,  on  high  and  low  grounds,  on  declivities  and  plains,  in  various 
aspects  and  exposures  ;  but  this  is  in  consequence  of  the  natural 
soil  being  good  :  you  should,  however,  avoid  very  low  damp  situa- 
tions, particularly  such  as  lodge  water ;  for  in  very  wet  soils,  no 
fruit  trees  will  prosper,  nor  will  the  fruit  produced  in  such  places 
be  good  ;  but  a  moderately  low  situation,  free  from  wet,  may 
be  more  eligible  than  an  elevated  ground,  as  being  less  exposed  to 
tempestuous  winds  ;  but,  if  having  a  gentle  declivity,  the  more 
desirable. 

A  proper  soil  being  the  grand  and  essential  requisite,  should  be 
carefully  selected,  for  on  this  depends  much  of  your  success;  a 
good  deep  sandy  loam,  neither  too  dry,  nor  wet,  is  the  most  suitable 
for  all  kinds  of  fruit-trees,  and  whether  this  be  on  high  or  low  si- 
tuations, it  should  be  preferred  to  every  other.  In  the  heaviest 
part  of  this  ground,  you  may  plant  apples  and  pears  ;  in  the  lighter, 
plums  and  cherries  ;  and  in  the  lightest,  peach,  nectarine  and 
apricots.  Generally  speaking,  ground  that  will  produce  good  crops 
of  natural  grass,  or  kitchen-garden  vegetables,  is  suitable  for  an 
Orchard  ;  if  of  a  loamy  nature,  it  will  be  a  particular  advantage  : 
any  soil,  however,  of  a  good  quality,  not  too  light  and  dry,  nor 
too  heavy,  stubborn,  or  wet,  and  not  less  than  one  spade  deep  of 
good  staple,  will^e  proper  for  this  purpose. 


222  THE  ORCHARD.  [MARCH. 

Where  the  soil  is  naturally  defective,  such  may  be  assisted  by 
the  application  of  proper  manures  and  composts  ;  applying  them 
to  the  whole  ground,  if  but  of  moderate  extent,  or,  if  extensive, 
to  the  place  where  each  tree  is  to  stand,  for  a  space  of  eight  or  ten 
feet  in  diameter,  working  it  up  with  the  natural  soil. 

This  trouble,  however,  in  extensive  Orchards,  would  be  very  ex- 
pensive ;  therefore,  those  who  have  choice  of  ground,  should  be 
very  careful  to  fix  upon  a  proper  soil,  such  as  would  require  but 
little  assistance. 

Preparation  of  the  Ground. 

The  preparation  of  the  ground,  for  the  reception  of  fruit-trees, 
is  either  by  digging  a  spacious  place  for  each  tree,  a  general  trench- 
ing of  the  ground,  or  by  ploughing  it.  If  the  latter  kind  of  prepa- 
ration is  intended,  and  that  the  ground  has  been  under  pasture  for 
«ome  years ;  you  should  plough  the  green  sward  the  spring  before 
you  plant  the  trees,  and  also  two  or  three  times  in  the  course  of  the 
summer  following,  to  rot  the  sward,  pulverize  the  earth,  and  to  pre- 
vent the  growth  of  weeds. 

Early  in  October  you  should  plough  it  again,  very  deep,  running 
the  plough  twice  in  each  furrow,  in  order  to  make  it  deep  and 
loose  for  the  roots  of  the  trees  ;  which,  should  be  planted  therein, 
in  the  course  of  the  same  or  next  month ;  but  if  the  soil  be  moist, 
March  will  be  a  much  better  season. 

Or  you  may  plough  as  above,  eight  or  ten  feet  wide  for  each  rovr 
of  trees,  leaving  the  remainder  of  the  ground  untouched. 

In  planting  Orchards  on  a  grass  ground,  in  very  good  soil,  you 
may  dig  a  hole  for  each  tree  capacious  enough  for  the  easy  recep- 
tion of  all  the  roots  loosening  the  bottom  well,  without  disturbing 
any  other  part  of  the  ground :  but  when  it  is  trenched  either 
wholly,  or  some  considerable  width  along  the  place  of  each  row 
of  trees,  it  will  consequently  prove  of  proportionate  advantage. 

Your  Orchard  should  get  a  good  dressing  of  manure,  once  in  two 
or  three  years,  whether  under  crops  of  grain,  or  grass  ;  this  will 
prove  very  serviceable  to  the  trees,  and  also  more  than  repay  your 
expences,  in  the  abundance  of  the  succeding  crops.  If  the  ground 
is  suffered  to  be  exhausted  by  successive  crops  of  fruit,  and  grass  or 
grain,  without  refreshing  it  occasionally  by  manure,  it  will  soon, 
if  not  extremely  fertile,  become  unfit  to  produce  either. 

Tillage  is  favourable  to  the  growth  of  young  trees ;  whereas  in 
grass-ground  their  progress  is  comparatively  slow,  for  want  of  the 
earth  being  stirred  about  their  roots,  and  being  frequently  injured 
by  grazing  stock.  Where  circumstances  will  allow,  it  is  test  to 
plant  fruit-trees  on  newly  broken-up  ground,  and  to  cultivate  the 
soil  (refreshing  it  with  manure  as  often  as  necessary),  until  the 
trees  are  well  grown ;  then  to  lay  it  down  to  grass ;  for  after  that 
period  the  shade  of  the  trees  would  do  less  injury  to  it,  than  to  any 
other  crop,  and  besides,  the  pending  boughs  would  render  tillage 
inconvenient. 


MARCH.]  THE  ORCHARD.  223 


Choice  of  Trees,  &c. 

If  not  provided  with  trees  in  your  own  Nursery,  you  must  apply- 
to  some  public  Nursery-man  of  integrity,  who  will  not  deceive  you 
in  the  varieties  of  the  kinds  wanted :  observe,  in  the  first  place,  that 
the  trees  are  healthy  and  fresh  looking,  without  any  blemishes,  or 
appearance  of  canker,  or  worms,  in  the  bark  ;  that  they  have  been 
raised  at  proper  distances,  and  not  drawn  up  spindling  ;  that  their 
heads  are  well  formed  and  well  furnished ;  that  their  stems  are 
stout,  proportionate  to  their  heads,  straight,  clean,  and  from  five 
to  six  feet  high,  from  the  surface,  to  the  spreading  of  the  branches  ; 
that  they  are  not  more  than  from  two  to  four  years  old,  from  the 
bud  or  graft,  and  that  all  have  been  worked  ;  that  is,  budded,  or 
grafted,  for  otherwise,  there  would  be  no  certainty  of  having  good 
fruit,  and  besides,  they  would  be  much  longer  coming  into  bearing. 

These  are  important  objects,  and  such  as  you  cannot  be  deceived 
in.  Never  make  choice  of  larger  trees,  nor  higher  in  the  stems 
than  six  feet,  especially  for  general  plantations,  for  they  never 
thrive  as  well  as  young  trees,  and  are  subject  to  be  dashed  about  by 
the  wind  after  planting. 

The  next  object  is  to  see  them  taken  up  with  care,  so  as  to  pre- 
serve all  their  roots  as  entire  as  possible  ;  when  taken  up,  prune  off 
any  broken  or  bruised  parts  of  the  roots  ;  shorten  long  stragglers, 
and  top  the  ends  of  the  principal  roots  in  general,  with  the  knife  ; 
always  observing  to  prune  these  roots  on  the  underside,  and  sloping 
outwards. 

Let  several  varieties  of  each  particular  kind  be  chosen,  such 
as  ripen  their  fruit  at  different  periods  from  the  earliest  to  the  lat- 
est, especially  when  they  are  wanted  for  the  table  ;  but  by  much  a 
greater  number  of  autumnal  and  late-ripening  kinds,  than  of  the 
early  sorts,  particularly  of  the  apples ;  for  the  early  ripening  fruits, 
are  of  short  duration,  and  only  proper  for  temporary  service. 
When  you  want  apples  or  peaches  for  distillation,  or  cyder-making, 
choose  proper  juicy  kinds  for  that  purpose,  and  quantities  propor- 
tionate to  your  intentions. 

Method  of  Planting. 

If  the  trees  have  been  already  trained,  so  as  to  have  full  branch- 
ing heads,  tiiey  must  be  planted  with  those  entire,  only  retrenching 
or  shortening  any  irregular,  or  ill  placed  branches  or  shoots,  that 
take  an  awkward  direction,  or  that  grow  across  others,  or  such  as 
run  considerably  longer  than  the  generality  of  the  others  ;  either 
cutting  them  clean  off,  close  to  the  places  from  whence  they  pro- 
ceed, or  to  some  young  shoot  or  small  leading  branch,  as  may  ap- 
pear most  eligible,  for  giving  the  tree  an  open  spreading  form, 
leaving  no  stumps  or  spurs. 

Should  you  not  be  able  to  procure  trees,  having  furnished  and 
well  formed  heads,  and  that  you  are  obliged  to  take  such  as  are  thin 
•f  wood,  and  running  up  tall ;  plant  them,  having  their  roots  dress* 


224  THE  ORCHARD.  [MARCH, 

ed  as  before,  but  without  touching  their  heads,  for  the  present.  So 
soon  after  planting  as  their  buds  begin  to  push,  head  them  down 
to  within  six,  eight,  or  ten  inches  of  the  place  where  you  wish  them 
to  branch  out  for  forming  their  heads;  they  will  then  throw  out 
young  vigorous  shoots,  which  you  may  afterwards  train  and  thick- 
en, or  make  thin  at  pleasure,  by  judicious  pruning  in  the  following 
years  ;  or  should  any  of  these  young  shoots  in  the  course  of  the 
succeeding  months,  take  too  great  a  lead  of  the  others,  you  may 
top  them  in  July,  which  will  stop  their  rampant  growth,  and  cause 
them  to  throw  out  side  shoots  that  will  still  enlarge  a  foundation  for 
numerous  branches,  and  not  carry  off  too  much  of  the  sap  from 
the  others. 

Should  it  happen  that  any  of  your  trees,  have  large  heads  and 
but  few  or  scanty  roots  ;  reduce  their  tops,  by  a  select  and  judicious 
pruning,  to  a  due  proportion  with  their  roots ;  for  an  Ox,  fed  only- 
through  a  wren's  quill,  could  not  long  exist.  This,  will  seldom 
happen,  unless  by  accident,  or  carelessness  in  the  taking  of  them 
up  ;  provided,  they  are  raised  at  proper  distances,  in  the  Nursery. 

The  arrangement  of  the  trees  in  the  Orchard  should  be  in  rows, 
each  different  kind  of  fruit  separate,  and  at  distances  proportionate 
to  the  nature  of  their  growths.  Apple  and  pear  trees  may  be  planted 
at  fifty  feet  distance,  every  way  ;  cherry  and  plum,  at  from  thirty  to 
forty  ;  peach,  nectarine,  apricot,  almonds  and  quinces,  at  from 
twenty-five  to  thirty  feet ;  and  at  still  greater  distances,  if  you  are 
not  limited  in  extent  of  suitable  ground,  and  that  you  intend  to 
raise  various  crops  between  the  trees. 

You  should  have  great  regard  to  the  distance  of  planting  the 
trees,  which  is  what  few  people  have  rightly  considered  ;  for  if  you 
plant  them  too  close,  they  will  be  liable  to  blights ;  the  air  being 
thereby  pent  in  amongst  them,  will  also  cause  the  fruit  to  be  ill  tast- 
ed ;  for  a  great  quantity  of  damp  vapours  from  the  perspiration 
of  the  trees,  and  the  exhalation  from  the  earth  mixed  with  it, 
will  be  imbibed  by  the  fruit,  and  render  their  juices  crude  and  un- 
wholesome ;  besides,  it  is  the  opinion  of  some  well  informed 
naturalists  and  orchardists,  that  these  vapours  and  perspiration  of 
the  trees,  collect  the  heat  of  the  sun,  and  reflect  it  in  streams,  so  as 
to  cause  what  is  called  a  fire-blast;  which,  is  extremely  hurtful  to 
fruit,  and  most  frequent,  where  the  Orchards  are  open  to  the  south 
sun. 

Having  your  trees  in  readiness,  proceed  to  stake  or  mark  out  the 
ground,  according  to  the  above,  or  greater  distances,  placing  a  small 
stake  or  mark,  where  each  hole  is  to  be  made,  for  the  reception  of  the 
trees ;  which  if  made  to  range  every  way^  will  have  a  very  agreea- 
ble effect,  admit  the  currency  of  air  and  sun's  influence  more  effectu- 
ally, and  make  the  Orchard  still  more  convenient  for  tillage. 

A  wide  circular  hole  must  be  dug  for  every  tree,  capacious  enough 
to  receive  all  the  roots  freely  without  touching  the  sides  ;  but  by  no 
means  of  a  greater  depth  than  the  natural  good  soil :  if  you 
make  a  deep  hole,  bason  like,  into  the  clay  bottom,  or  unfriendly, 
sub-soil,  which  is  too  frequently  clone,  and  plant  the  roots  therein, 
even  filling  it  round  with  good  earth  will  not  do,  for  as  soon  as  it 


MARCH.]  THE  ORCHARD. 

pushes  its  roots  beyond  this,  they  must  enter  into  the  bad  and  un- 
friendly soil,  which  will  not  fail  to  bring  on  the  decay  of  the  most 
healthy  tree,  and  can  never  afford  it  suitable  juices  for  perfecting 
delicious  fruit  5  besides,  the  lodgement  of  water  about  the  roots 
in  this  confined  bason,  in  wet  seasons,  will  cause  the  tree  to  be- 
come sickly,  and  to  get  overrun  with  moss,  and  full  of  canker. 

When  the  holes  are  all  ready,  proceed  to  planting,  placing  a  tree 
in  each,  having  its  roots  trimmed  as  before,  one  person  holding  the 
stem  erect,  whilst  another  casts  in  the  earth,  previously  breaking  it 
small ;  let  it  be  settled  in  equally  between  all  the  roots,  by  gently 
and  frequently  shaking  the  tree  a  little  up  and  down,  which  will 
cause  the  mould  to  settle  in  close  about  all  the  small  roots  and 
fibres  ;  and  also  to  raise  the  tree  gradually  up,  that  the  crown  of  the 
roots  may  not  be  more  than  about  three  or  four  inches  below  the 
general  surface  even  in  the  deepest  soil.  When  the  hole  is  filled 
up,  tread  it  gently,  first  round  the  outside,  then  near  the  stem  of 
the  tree ;  forming  the  surface  a  little  hollow,  to  admit  of  giving 
water,  if  found  necessary,  with  more  convenience  ;  and  if  on  the 
top  of  all  is  laid  some  inverted  turf,  to  the  width  of  the  holes,  form- 
ing it  into  a  sort  of  circular  bank,  it  will  support  the  tree,  and  guard 
the  roots  from  powerful  heat,  drought  and  parching  winds  ;  observing 
that  each  tree  stands  perfectly  upright,  and  that  they  range  exactly 
in  their  proper  rows. 

Should  the  earth  be  rather  shallow,  so  that  you  cannot  cover  the 
roots  a  sufficient  depth  with  good  soil,  you  must  have  some  hauled, 
for  that  purpose,  to  where  each  tree  is  to  be  planted,  or  collected  to 
such  places,  from  the  general  surface,  and  bank  the  roots  around 
therewith  ;  for  there  is  no  alternative,  between  planting  them  in  the 
good  soil,  where  their  roots  can  take  a  wide  extended  horizontal  di- 
rection, and  lie  within  the  reach  of  the  genial  influence  of  heatj 
rain,  dew  and  air,  and  that  of  an  untimely  end,  if  planted  too  deep. 

When  you  desire  to  remove  large  trees,  of  any  kind,  the  best 
method  will  be,  to  open  trenches  about  their  roots,  immediately  pre- 
vious to  the  setting  in  of  the  frosts,  leaving  as  much  earth  around 
them,  as  you  think  can  be  conveniently  moved  or  carried  with  the 
trees,  cutting  at  a  proper  distance  the  large  wide  spreading  roots, 
and  leaving  only  as  many  uncut  as  are  sufficient  to  prevent  their 
being  blown  down ;  when  you  find  the  earth  sufficiently  bound  by 
the  frost,  work  in  under,  and  take  them  up  with  the  balls,  place 
them  on  a  sled,  and  so  carry  them  to  their  place  of  destination  : 
previous  to  planting  smooth  all  the  wounded  parts,  and  prune  or 
thin  their  tops,  in  proportion  to  their  loss  of  roots. 

When  a  defect  in  an  old  Orchard,  is  to  be  supplied,  it  will  be  neces- 
sary, to  take  away  the  earth  where  the  old  tree  stood,  to  a  proper 
depth,  and  to  the  extent  of  a  circle  of  ten  feet  in  diameter,  which 
fill  up  with  fresh  earth  previous  to  planting  ;  for  it  seldom  happens, 
without  this  management,  that  young  trees  thrive,  when  planted 
where  old  disordered  ones  stood. 

If  the  Orchard  is  much  exposed  to  winds,  it  will  be  proper  to 
stake  the  new  planted  trees  to  support  them  in  their  proper  posi- 
tion, and  secure  them  from  being  rocked  to  and  fro  thereby,  which 


«26  THE  VINEYARD.  [MARCH. 

•would  greatly  retard  their  rooting ;  placing  one  or  two  strong  tall 
stakes  to  each  tree  ;  but  in  large  trees,  the  most  effectual  method 
is  to  have  three  stakes  to  each,  placed  in  a  triangle,  meeting  at  top 
near  the  head  of  the  tree,  wrapping  a  hay-band  round  that  part  of 
the  stem,  to  prevent  its  being  barked  by  the  stakes,  or  tying  ;  then 
tie  the  stakes  at  top,  close  to  the  tree,  with  some  proper  bandage, 
bringing  it  close  about  the  stem  and  stakes  together,  over  the  hay- 
wrapping,  to  secure  the  tree  firmly  in  an  erect  posture. 

If  your  young  Orchard  is  laid  down  with  grass,  no  cattle  should 
be  turned  into  it  to  graze  at  large ;  unless  each  tree  is  previously 
wtll  secured  with  posts  and  railing,  otherwise  they  will  bark  the 
trees  to  their  very  great  injury,  and  eat  off  the  tops  of  such  of  their 
young  shoots  as  they  can  reach  ;  nor  should  large  cattle  be  turned 
into  any  Orchards  where  the  branches  of  the  trees  are  yet  low,  and 
within  their  reach. 

Where  great  quanties  of  fruit  are  wanted,  large  avenues  of  apple, 
pear,  peach  and  cherry  trees,  &c.  may  be  extended  across  neigh- 
bouring fields,  which,  will  render  them  pleasant,  and  produce  abun- 
dance of  fruit ;  or  there  may  be  single  rows  planted  to  surround 
fields,  &c.  which  will  be  found  extremely  profitable,  if  in  an  honest 
neighbourhood. 

You  may  now  plant  the  boundaries  of  large  Orchards  with 
English  walnuts  and  Spanish  chesnuts ;  these  will  not  only  afford 
you  an  abundance  of  fruit,  but  protect  the  trees  in  general,  from  the 
power  of  tempestuous  winds.  A  small  quarter  of  the  Orchard  may  be 
allotted  to  filberts,  mulberries,  medlars,  berberries,  &c.  and  this  is  a 
proper  time  for  planting  them. 

For  the  method  of  raising  and  propagating  all  kinds  of  fruit-trees, 
Sec.  see  the  Nursery  for  this  and  the  preceding  month ;  and  al&o 
July. 


THE  VINEYARD. 

THE  VITIS  VINIFERA,  or  common  wine-yielding  Vine,  is  a  native 
of  the  Warmer  regions  of  Asia:  it  is  found  to  be  most  successful  in 
the  temperate  climates,  or  between  the  30th  and  50th  degrees  of 
north,  and  south  latitudes. 

It  is  cultivated  in  the  greatest  perfection  in  the  Island  of  Madeira 
lat.  32°  North ;  and  in  every  part  of  Europe  as  far  north  as  the 
fiftieth  degree  of  latitude;  also  at  the  Cape  of  Good-Hope  about  lat. 
33°  50"  South,  as  well  as  in  every  corresponding  parallel,  in  Asia  and 
the  civilized  parts  of  Africa:  yet  there  are  people  among  us,  who 
seern  to  despair  of  its  being  possible  to  cultivate  it  successfully  in  the 
United  States,  and  who  by  this  kind  of  despondency  publicly  ex- 


MARCH.]  THE  VINEYARD.  227 

pressed,  discountenance  its  cultivation.  We  have  similar  climates, 
and  as  suitable  soil  and  situations,  as  are  to  be  found  in  any  of  the 
countries  where  this  plant  is  cultivated,  and  what  to  attribute  this 
infidelity  to,  I  am  at  a  loss  to  know.  What  do  they  perceive  insalu- 
brious, in  the  air,  or  unfriendly  to  vegetable  life  in  the  soil  of  America, 
any  more  than  in  transatlantic  countries  ;  or  are  they  led  astray  by 
prejudiced  European  writers,  whose  envy,  or  want  of  knowledge,  or 
perhaps  both,  had  prompted  them  to  assert,  that  neither  animals  or 
vegetables  arrive  at  as  good  or  as  great  perfection  in  America,  as  in 
Europe  ?  However,  a  little  time  and  some  industry,  will  show  that 
this  prejudice  is  erroneous,  and  that  the  Vine,  can  be  cultivated,  in 
the  far  greater  part  of  the  Union,  to  immense  national,  as  well  as 
individual  advantage 

The  Vine  was  originally  introduced  into  Europe  from  Asia  minor; 
and  even  in  the  days  of  Lucullus,  the  Romans  were  seldom  able  to 
regale  themselves  with  its  juice,  very  little  wine  being  made  at  that 
time  within  the  compass  of  Italy ;  and  the  foreign  wines,  which 
they  imported  from  Asia,  were  so  dear,  that  they  were  rarely  intro- 
duced at  an  entertainment,  and  when  they  were,  each  guest  was 
indulged  only  with  a  single  draught.  But  in  the  seventh  century 
of  Rome,  as  their  conquests  augmented  the  degree  of  their  wealth, 
this  luxury  was  sought  after  with  avidity,  and  wines  became  the 
object  of  particular  attention.  In  the  progress  of  their  conquests, 
the  westerly  parts  of  the  European  continent,  was  at  once  subjected 
to  the  Arms  and  enriched  with  the  Vines,  of  Italy  ;  its  cultivation 
went  on  but  slowly  for  some  time,  in  these  countries,  where,  since 
it  has  become  a  staple  article  of  great  national  importance,  perhaps, 
occasioned  by  the  same  kind  of  doubts,  fears,  prejudices,  and  appre- 
hensions, that  now  operate  against  it,  in  the  United  States;  but 
these  at  length  were  surmounted,  by  the  industry  of  a  few  culti- 
vators, who  had  penetration  enough  to  perceive  its  practicability, 
and  who,  no  doubt,  were  amply  remunerated,  in  consequence  of 
being  first  in  market  with  large  quantities :  others  perceiving  their 
fortunate  success,  copied  their  examples,  in  expectation  of  obtaining 
like  profits.  Similar  to  this  will  be  its  progress  in  America,  and 
those  who  first  commence  the  business  by  planting  on  an  extensive 
scale,  will  assuredly  reap  the  richest  harvests. 

The  culture  of  the  Vine  will  for  some  time  be  an  experimental 
business  with  us ;  however,  the  first  object  is  to  obtain  the  kinds 
that  will  immediately,  or  soonest,  accommodate  themselves  to  the 
different  regions  of  the  Union  ;  perhaps  those  from  Madeira,  or  the 
Cape  of  Good  Hope,  would  best  suit  in  the  southern  states,  those 
from  the  south  of  Europe  in  the  middle,  and  those  from  Bur- 
gundy, Champagne,  Switzerland,  Bourdeaux,  or  the  banks  of  the 
Rhine,  in  the  eastern  states,  Trials  of  this  kind  should  be.  made, 
and  the  result  carefully  attended  to  ;  and  indeed,  each  and  every  of 
the  states,  should  give  a  fair  trial  to  the  vines  of  every  country,  from 
whence  they  can  be  procured;  by  which  means,  and  by  which  only, 
they  can  discover  those  best  adapted  to  their  respective  soils  and 
Climates. 


228  THE  VINEYARD.  [MARCH. 

There  is  not  the  least  doubt  but  the  Vines  of  any  temperate  cli- 
mate, can  be  naturalized  in  any  state  of  the  Union,  in  a  very  short 
time:  for  there  is  an  astonishing  facility  in  plants  to  accommodate 
themselves  to  soil  and  climate,  and  in  very  few  more  than  in  the 
vine.  The  Helianthus  annuus,  or  common  annual  sunflower,  is  a 
native  of  Mexico  and  Peru,  and  yet  we  all  know  that  it  now  grows 
in  every  part  of  the  Union  where  introduced,  as  well  as  if  it  were 
indigenous.  The  Helianthus  tuberosus,  or  what  is  commonly  called 
the  Jerusalem  Artichoke,  is  a  tropical  plant,  being  a  native  of  Brasil, 
and  is  become  naturalized  to  our  climates,  as  well  as  to  those  of  Eu- 
rope, as  far  north  as  St.  Petersburg,  and  perhaps  farther.  The 
Cherry-tree,  when  first  introduced  into  Italy  by  Lucullus,  a  Roman 
general,  from  the  city  of  Cerasus,  in  Pontus,  whence  its  name 
Prunus  Cerasus,  was  there  treated  as  a  tender  exotic ;  by  degrees, 
it  had  crept  into  Britain,  where  it  was  treated  for  some  time  in  like 
manner  ;  and  experience  now  proves,  that  it  thrives  in  America, 
as  well  as  in  Italy,  Britain,  or  Pontus  itself.  Thousands  of  other 
instances  could  be  adduced  of  the  wisdom  and  goodness  of  the  Cre- 
ator, in  furnishing  plants  with  those  accommodating  powers  j  but 
the  Vine  has  manifested  itself  in  so  many,  and  so  universally,  that 
it  is  unnecessary  to  recapitulate  them  ;  yet  we  frequently  meet 
with  people  who  say,  "  it  will  nc-ver  succeed  here  !  I" 

It  may,  however,  be  proper  to  remark,  that  where  the  Peach  tree 
perfects  its  fruit,  in  open  field  culture,  so  will  the  Vine  :  the  latter 
is  even  capable  of  bearing  greater  degrees  of  heat,  and  of  produc- 
ing fruit  in  perfection,  in  higher  latitudes  than  the  former,  mani- 
fested by  the  quantities  of  wine  made  in  many  places  in  the  south 
of  England,  from  its  productions  in  open  Vineyard  culture  ;  whilst, 
there,  they  could  not  have  a  single  peach,  from  a  thousand  trees, 
cultivated  in  the  same  way,  principally  owing  to  the  want  of  a  suffi- 
ciency of  summer  heat  to  ripen  the  young  wood  ;  and  mild  as 
their  winters  are,  in  comparison  to  ours,  they,  under  such  circum- 
stances, generally  destroy  the  pithy  and  unripened  shoots  of  the 
Peach,  without  doing  near  so  much  injury  to  those  of  the  Vine. 
On  the  other  hand,  it  is  well  known,  that  the  grape-vine  will  bear 
fruit  abundantly,  year  after  year,  when  forced  in  pine-stoves,  with 
pine-apples  ;  where,  if  a  peach  was  introduced,  it  would  scarcely 
survive  one  season,  at  least  it  would  not  produce  a  single  fruit  worth 
.eating  the  second, 

Before  entering  on  the  general  culture,  I  shall  give  a  short  de- 
scription of  the  varieties  of  the  grape,  hitherto  cultivated  in  Eu- 
rope, either  for  making  wine,  or  for  the  table ;  many  of  which,  are 
now  under  trial  at  the  Sfiring-Mill  Vineyard,  within  fourteen  miles 
of  Philadelphia,  the  property  of  a  company  incorporated  by  the  le- 
gislature of  Pennsylvania,  "  for  the  promotion  of  the  culture  of  the 
Vine,"  and  under  the  superintendence  of  Mr.  Peter  Legaux,  an 
experienced  Vine-dresser,  and  a  gentleman  of  worth  and  science. 

These  I  shall  divide  into  three  classes,  in  the  order  of  their  ripen- 
ing. 1.  Those  which  ripen  earliest.  2.  Those  which  succeed 
them ;  and  3.  The  latest  coming  to  maturity.  Perhaps,  the  first 
class  might  be  best  adapted  for  the  more  immediate  culture^  in  the 


MARCH.]  THE  VINEYARD.  229 

eastern  states ;  the  second  in  the  middle ;  and  the  third,  in  the 
southern  states.  But,  experiments  on  all  the  kinds  that  it  is  pos- 
sible to  procure,  should  be  tried  in  each  state  of  the  Union ;  giving, 
at  the  same  time,  suitable  soil  and  situation  to  each  class,  according1 
to  their  periods  of  ripening ;  that  is,  to  give  the  latest  kinds  the 
warmest  exposure,  &c. 

first  Class. 

1 .  The  White  Frontinac,  or  Mucat  Blanc.  Is  a  high-flavoured  grape, 
and  has  a  peculiar  rich  juice  when  perfectly  ripe  ;  the  bunches  are 
large,  and  the  berries,  which  are  round,  are  very  closely  joined  to 
each  other,  whereby  some  of  them,  in  wet  seasons,  are  apt  to  rot 
before  they  are  ripe  ;  which,  in  some  measure,  is  owing  to  the 
thinness  of  their  skins  :  those  who  wish  to  have  them  in  the  best 
perfection,  will  thin  them  out  when  about  the  size  of  peas,  where- 
by the  air  will  have  free  admittance,  and  those  which  are  left,  will 
be  larger  and  higher  flavoured. 

2.  The  Blue,  or   Violet  Frontinac,  or  Muscat  Violet.     This  has  a 
small  black  berry,  powdered  with  a  fine  blue  or  violet  bloom,  and  is 
of  an  exalted   vinous  flavour.     The  berries  grow  close  upon  the 
bunches,  which  are  very  small. 

3.  The    White  Sweet    Water.     This  is  a  very  large  round  white 
grape.     The  berries  grow  close  on  the  bunch,  which  is  of  a  mode- 
rate  size,  and  are  replete  with  an  agreeable  juice.     The  skin  and 
flesh  of  this  grape  are  more  delicate,  than  of  any  other  sort.     The 
berries  on  the  sides  of  the  bunches,  next  the  sun,  are  clouded  with 
•pots  of  a  russet  colour. 

4.  The  Black  S\veet  Water.  The  berries  of  this  variety  are  much 
smaller   than   the  former ;    are   black,  roundish,  grow   in    small, 
short,  close  bunches,  and  are  replete  with  a  very  sweet  juice. 

5.  The  Brick  Grape.     The   berries   of  this  kind  are  small,  in- 
clining to  an  oval  figure,  and  of  a  pale  red  or  brick  colour.    This  is 
a  very  sweet  grape,  though  not  much  admired. 

6.  The  White  Muscadine,  or  Chasselas  Blanc.     This  is  a  round 
•white  berry?  moderately  large,  with  a  thin  skin  and  delicate  juicy 
flesh.     The  bunch  is  well  formed,  and  of  a  pretty  good  size.    This 
is  an  early  grape,  and  a  great  bearer. 

7.  The  Munier,  or  Miller's  Burgundy  Grape.     The  berries  are 
small,  black>  rather  inclining  to  an  oval  figure,  and  grow  close  on 
the  bunch,  which  is  commonly  short  and  small.    The  skin  and  flesh 
are  delicate,  possessing  a  sweet  and  pleasant  juice.     The  leaves  are 
distinguishable  from  most  others  by  a  hoary  down,  especially  when 
young,  being  then  almost  white.     This  is  an  excellent  bearer,  and 
a  principal  grape  to  be  cultivated  for  wine. 

8.  The  Small  Black  Cluster.     The  berries    and  bunches  of  this 
grape,  are  little  different  from  the  former ;  but  the  leaves  have  less 
roAvn,  and  are  smaller.     This  is  a  delicate  sweet  fruit,  and  is  some- 
times called  the  Burgundy  Grape. 

9.  The  Early  Black  July  Grape,  Morillon   Aoz'r,  or  Hatif  Noir. 
This  has  a  small  black  round  berry,  replete  with  a  sugary  juice ; 


030  THE  VINEYARD.  [MARCH, 

the  bunches  also  are  small  and  thin  set ;   but  it  is  a  prolific  bearer, 
and  comes  to  the  table  at  an  early  period. 

10.  The  Early  White  Grape,  from  Tcnerif.     The  berries  of  this 
variety   are  round,  white,  and  of  a  moderate  size,  with  thin  skins 
and  delicate  juicy  flesh,  of  an  extraordinary  sweetness.   The  berries 
and  bunches,  much  resemble  the  common  Muscadine,  to  which  it 
appears  to  have  a  near  affinity. 

1 1 .  The  Aicuemat  JVoir  of  Orleans,  Pineau,  of  Burgundy,  or  True 
Burgundy   Grafie,  sometimes  called  the  Black  Morillon,  is  an  in- 
different fruit  for  the  table  ;  but  is  esteemed  one  of  the  best   for 
making  wine.     It  is  of  a  middle  size,  somewhat  oval,  and  of  a  fine 
black  colour ;  the  bunches  are  longer  than  Miller's  Burgundy. 

Second  Class. 

12.  The  Aleppo  Grafie.     This  is  a  middle-sized,  roundish  grape, 
with  a  thin  skin  and  delicate  juicy  flesh,  of  an  exquisite  vinous  fla- 
vour.    The  colour  is  commonly  very  various,  some  of  the  berries 
being  white,  others  black,  but  the  major  part  are  curiously  striped 
with  black  and  white :  but  what  appears  most  remarkable  is,  that 
the  colours  do  not  intermix,  but  are  divided  by  straight  lines,  as  if 
painted.     The  leaves  of  this  sort  are,  in  the  autumn,  very  curious- 
ly striped,  with  red,  green,  and  yellow,   somewhat  similar  to  the 
Aleppo  lettuce. 

13.  The  Grizzly  Frontinac.    The  berries  of  this  grape  are  round, 
tolerably  large,  and  their  colour  brown  and  red,  intermixed  with 
yellow.     Both  this,  and  No.  1,  possess  a  high  musky,  perfumed 
flavour. 

14.  The  Black  or  Purple  Frontinac,  or  Muscat  Noir.     The  ber- 
ries of  this  variety  are  black,  when  ripe,  and  covered  with  a  kind  of 
powder,  which  gives  them  a  purple  hue ;  are   moderately  large, 
round,  and  of  a  most  exquisite  flavour.     They  compose  very  long 
bunches.     This  hud  formerly  been  called  the  Red  Frontinac,  and  is 
one  of  the  very  best  grapes.    It  is  called,  at  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope, 
the  Black  Constantia. 

15.  The   Red  Frontinac,  or  Muscat  Rouge.     This  is  a  very  fine 
grape,  and  greatly  esteemed.     The  berries  are  of  a  brick  colour, 
thin  skin,  moderate  size,  and  juicy  delicate  flesh. 

16.  The  Black  Hamburg.     The  berries  of  this  variety  are  large, 
inclining  to  an  oval  figure,  and  of  a  black  colour.     They  hung 
loosely  on  the  bunch,  and  compose  well  formed  handsome  bunches. 
The  skin  is  thick,  and  the  pulp  hard  ;  but,  notwithstanding,  it  is  a 
very  valuable  grape,  being  a  good  flavoured  fruit  and  a  plentiful 
bearer. 

17.  The  Red  Hamburg.     The  berries  of  this  sort  are  of  a  dark 
red,  with  thin  skins  and  juicy  delicate  flesh.     The  size  and  figure, 
of  both  the  berry  and  bunch,  are  nearly  like  the  former.     It  is 
sometimes  called  the  Gibraltar  Grape. 

18.  The  Mal-voise.     The  berries  of  this  are  small,  rather  in- 
clining to  an  cval  figure,  and  of  a  brown  colour.     The  skin  is  thin, 
»nd  the  fiesh  delicate,  replete  with  a  vinous  juice.     As  the  berries 


MARCH.]  THE  VINEYARD.  231 

are  powdered  with  a  blue  bloom,  it  is  sometimes  called  the  Blue 
Tokay. 

19.  The  Genuine  Tokay.     This  is  a  white  grape.     The  berries 
incline  to  an  oval  figure,  and  grow  rather  close  on  the  bunch,  which 
is  of  a  moderate  size.     The  skin  is  thin,  and  flesh  delicate,  abounding 
with  a  very  agreeable  juice.     This  variety  is  very  distinguishable 
by  the  foliage,  the  under  side  of  the  leaf  being  covered  with  a  fine 
soft  down,  having  the  appearance  of  sattin. 

20.  The  Lombardy  Grape.     This  has  a  large  berry  inclining  to 
an  oval  figure,  of  a  beautiful  flame  colour.     The  bunches  are  regu- 
larly formed  with  shoulders,  and  frequently  arrive  to  the  weight  of 
six  or  seven  pounds.     The  leaves  are  much  more  divided  than  most 
other  sorts,  and  the  upper  surface  is  of  a  deep  green  colour.     This 
is  by  some  called  the  Rhenish  Grape,  and,  by  others,  the  Flame- 
coloured  Tokay. 

2 1 .  The  Smyrna  Grape.     This  has  a  large  red  coloured  berry, 
of  an  oval  figure,  with  thin  skin  and  delicate  juicy  flesh.     It  forms 
long  branches  with  shoulders  loosely  connected.     The  leaves  in 
autumn  die  with  purple  edges. 

•  22.  The  Alicant,  or  Black  Spanish  Grape.  The  berries  of  this 
variety  incline  to  an  oval  shape,  are  moderately  large  and  black, 
and  form  exceeding  long  unshouldered  bunches.  The  flesh  is  soft, 
juicy,  and  of  an  agreeable  flavour.  The  leaves  in  autumn  are  beau- 
tifully variegated  with  red,  green,  and  yellow.  This  is  a  pretty 
good  fruit,  and  is  sometimes,  though  incorrectly,  called  the  Lombardy 
Grape. 

23.  The  Black  Muscadine.     The  berries   and  bunches  of  this 
variety,  are  somewhat  smaller  than  those  of  No.  7.     This  is  a  very 
prolific  grape,  and  makes  a  fine  appearance,  on  account  of  the  black 
berries  being  powdered  with  a  bluish  bloom  ;  but  the  flesh  is  not  so 
delicate  and  juicy  as  the  former. 

24.  The  Royal  Muscadine,  D'Arboyce,  or  Chasselas  Blanc.    This 
has  a  round  white  or  amber-coloured  berry,  of  a  moderate  size,  a 
thin  skin,  and  a  juicy  soft  flesh.   The  bunches  are  generally  exceed- 
ing large,  sometimes  arriving  to  six  or  seven  pounds.     This  variety 
is  very  distinguishable  by  the  wood  and  foliage,  generally  growing 
remarkably  gross  and  strong,  and  is  considered  an  excellent  table 
grape. 

.  25.  The  Malmsey  Muscadine.  This  seems  nearly  allied  to  the 
preceding,  but  the  bunches  and  berries  are  somewhat  smaller,  and 
the  juice  of  a  higher  flavour,  being  remarkably  sweet.  This  is  a 
good  bearer,  a  very  fine  grape,  and  said  to  be  one  of  those  of  which 
the  Madeira  Wine  is  made. 

26.  The  Claret  Grafie.     The  berries  of  this,  are  small,  black,  and 
inclining  to  an  oval  figure  ;  they  grow  close,  and  form  small  bunches. 
The  juice  is  of  a  blood-red  colour,  of  a  harsh  taste,  excepting  the 

'grapes  are  perfectly  matured,  and  then  it  may  be  considered  as  an 
agreeable  and  delicate  fruit.  The  leaves  change  from  green  to  a 
russet  red  early  in  summer,  and  die  a  deep  red  in  autumn. 

27.  The  Large  Black  Cluster,  or  Lisbon  Grape.     The  berries  are 
large  and  grow  more  oval  than  the  two  former  varieties,  which  are 


5232  THE  VINEYARD.  [MARCIT. 

black  and  not  so  delicate,  the  juice  being  of  a  harsh  and  rough  taste* 
The  leaves  in  autumn,  when  on  the  decline,  change  to  a  beautiful 
bright  scarlet.  This  is  the  grape  of  which  the  red  Port-wine  is 
made. 

28.  The  White  Morillon.     This  has  an   oval  white  berry,  of  a 
moderate  size,  with  thin  skin  and  delicate  juicy  flesh.     It  grows 
close  on  the  bunches,  which  are  small.     The  leaves  are  soft,  being 
greatly  covered  with  down  on  the  under  side,  somewhat  similar  to 
the  genuine  Tokay  grape,  to  which  it  appears  nearly  allied. 

29.  Cat's  Grafie.     This    has  a  small  oval  berry,  of  a  greenish 
white  colour,  with  a  thin  skin  and   soft  juicy  flesh.     The  berries 
grow  close,  forming  small  bunches.      The  taste  of  this  fruit  before 
it  is  quite  matured,  is  disagreeable,  but,  when  perfectly  ripe,  is  very 
sweet,  and  pleasing  to  some  palates. 

30.  The  St.  Peter's  Grafie.     This  has  a  pretty  large  berry,  inclin- 
ing to  an  oval  form,  and  of  a  deep  black  colour  \vhen  ripe  ;  the  skin 
is  thin,  and  the  flesh  very  delicate  and  juicy.     This  Vine  produces 
large  shouldered  bunches,  and  the  leaves  are  much  more  divided  than 
those  of  most  other  sorts. 

31.  The  Black  Grafie  from  Palestine.     This  appears  nearly  simi- 
lar to  the  preceding,  but  may  probably  be  a  distinct  variety. 

32.  The  White  parsley  leaved  Grape,  or  Ciotat.     This  is  a  variety 
of  the  parsley  leaved  grape.     The  berries  are  round,  white,  of  a 
moderate  size,  with  thin  skins  and  delicate  juicy  flesh,  which  is  very- 
sweet  but  not  of  a  vinous  flavour.     The  branches  are  of  a  pretty  good 
size  almost  similar  to  the  white  Muscadine.     The  leaves  are  finely- 
divided,  differing  from  any  other  sort. ...There  is  a  variety  of  the 
parsley-leaved  grape  which  produces  red  berries. 

33.  The  Slack  Lisbon  Grape.     This  has  a  large  globular  berry, 
black,  thin  skinned  and  juicy.    It  has  also  large  shouldered  bunches, 
which  not  a  little  resembles  the  Black  Hamburg.     This  is  a  good 
grape. 

34.  The  Greek  Grape.     The  berries  of  this  variety  are  of  a  mo- 
derate size,  rather  inclining  to  an  oval  figure,  of  a  bluish  white  co- 
lour, and  grow  close,  forming  moderate-sized  handsome  bunches. 
The  leaves  grow  on  very  short  foot-stalks,  and  bear  a  resemblance 
to  those  of  the  Sweet-Water.     It  is  a  delicate  and  justly  esteemed 
fruit. 

35.  The  White  Corinth  Grape.     This  lias  a  white,  round  berry, 
rather  small,  with  a  thin  skin,  and  very  delicate  juicy  flesh,  of  an 
agreeable  flavour.     The  bunches  too  are  rather  small.     The  ber- 
ries, when  perfectly  ripe,  are  transparent,  so  that  the  seeds  appear 
very  distinctly. 

36.  The   White   Muscat    of  LUNEL.     The  berries  of  this,  are 
large  and  oval,  and,  when  perfectly  ripe,  are  of  a  fine  amber  colour, 
somewhat  clouded  with  brown  or  russet,  especially  on  the  side  next 
the  sun.     The  skin  is  thin,  and  the  flesh  delicate,  replete  with  a 
vinous  juice.     As  this  grape  is  a  very  plentiful  bearer,  and  forms 
pretty  large  bunches,  it  may  justly  be  deemed  a  valuable  sort. 

57.  The  Red  Chasselas,  or  Chasselas  Rouge,  is  very  like  the 
Chasselas  Blanc,  No.  6,  in  size  and  shape,  but  is  of  a  dark  red  co- 
lour. It  is  a  very  good  grape,  but  ripens  later  than  the  white. 


MARCH,]  THE  VINEYARD.  253 


Third  Class. 

38.  The  White  Muscat  of  Alexandria^  or  Alexandrian  Frontinac. 
The  berries  of  this  are  large  and  oval,  the  bunches  long,  and,  when 
perfectly  ripe,  are  of  a  fine  amber  colour  ;  the  skin  thick,  pulp  firm, 
the  juice  rich  and  vinous,  and  of  a  high  musky  flavour ;  the  berries 
hang  loosely,  ripen  well,  and  are  in  great  estimation. 

39.  The  Red  Muscat  of  Alexandria.    This  resembles  the  former, 
only  the  berries  are  red ;  it  is  a  most  excellent  grape,  and  highly 
worthy  of  cultivation. 

40.  The  Black  Damascus.     The  berries  of  this  are  large,  round, 
and  of  a  fine  black  colour  ;  the  skin  thin,  the  flesh  juicy,  and  of  an 
exquisite  flavour.     The  same  bunch  commonly  consists  of  different 
sizes  ;  the  small  berries  are  without  stones,  and  the  large  ones  con- 
tain only  one  in  each  berry  ;  this  is  an  excellent  sort. 

41.  The  Black   Tripoli   Grafie.     This  grape  seems  nearly  allied 
to  the  Black  Damascus,  but  the  bunches  are  always  composed  of 
large  berries,  of  an  equal  size,  and  with  one  stone  in  each.     This 
circumstance  of  the  berries  being  equal  in  size,  renders  the  bunches 
of  a  more  agreeable  appearance  ;  the  foliage  in  both  are  exceedingly 
beautiful  in  the  fall,  assuming  a  reddish  hue,  and  very  similar  :  this 
is  a  very  good  grape. 

42.  The  Red  Grafie  from  Syracuse.     This  is  a  very  large  grape, 
of  a  red  colour  and  oval  figure,  somewhat  irregularly  formed  ;  the 
berries  hang  together  loosely  on  the  bunches,  which  are  pretty 
large  :  this  is  a  most  excellent  grape. 

43.  Le   Cceur  Grafie,  or  Morocco   Grape.     This  produces  large 
berries,  in  figure  somewhat  heart  shaped,  and  of  a  tawny  grizzly 
colour.     The  bunches  are  often  composed  of  unequally-sized  ber- 
ries, some   of  them  exceedingly  large  ;  these  never  contain  more 
than  one  stone  each,  and  the  lesser-sized  berries  are  always  without 
stones.     The  foot-stalks  of  the  berries  are  short,  and  singularly 
large,  differing  from  most  other  sorts.    This  is  a  much   esteemed 
grape. 

44.  The  Golden  Galician.     The  berries  of  this  variety  a  'e  large, 
and  of  an  oval  figure  ;  the  flesh  hard,  but  of  a  tolerable  flavour  : 
these,  together  with  the  foot-stalks,  are  of  a  light  yellow  colour. 

45.  The  Black  Muse  add.    The  berries  of  this,  are  large,  oval,  and 
of  a  black  colour;  the  skin  thin,  with  a  delicate  juicy  flesh.     The 
same  bunch  contains  berries  of  different  sizes,  some  of  them  very 
large  and  long,  but  somewhat  compressed  at  the  ends  :  the  leaves 
change  in  autumn  to  a  beautiful  scarlet. 

46.  The  Red  Muscadcl.     The  berries  of  this  sort  are  large,  oval, 
and  of  a  beautiful  red  colour  ;  the  skin  thick,  and  the  flesh  hard, 
something  like  the  raisin  grape.     The  bunches  frequently  arrive  to 
five  or  six  pounds,  and  are  most  elegantly  formed  of  berries  of  an 
equal  size.     This  is  one  of  the  largest  grapes.    The  leaves  change 
in  autumn  to  a  beautiful- red  and  green. 

47.  The  White  Grape  from  Alcobaca.   This  has  a  large  oval  white 

H  h 


234  THE  VINEYARD.  [MARCH. 

berry,  with  a  thin  skin  and  juicy  flesh  ;  the  bunches  are  large  and 
long,  without  shoulders. 

48.  The    White  Hamburg.     This  has  an  oval  berry,  with  a  thick 
skin  and  hard  flesh.     As  this  variety  is  a  plentiful  bearer,  and  forms 
large  bunches,  it  is  much  admired  by  some,  but  is  not  so  valuable 
as  either  of  the  two  preceding  kinds.    It  is  sometimes  called  the 
Portugal  Grape. 

49.  The  Syrian  Grape.     The  berries  are  white,  large,  and  of  an 
oval  figure;  the  skin  thick,  and  the  flesh  firm  and  hard;  the  bunches 
well  formed,  and  enormously  large.     Though  this  is  generally  con- 
sidered as  a  course  fruit,  it  has  properties  that  ought  to  introduce  it 
into  every  large  collection.     It  is  very  prolific,  and  the  bunches  com- 
monly grow  very  large,  sometimes  to  upwards  of  twelve  pounds, 
making  a  most  beautiful  appearance,  and,  when  well  perfected,  may 
be  called  a  very  eatable  fruit ;   they  may  without  difficulty,  be  kept 
many  weeks  longer  than  any  other  kind.   This  grape  requires  a  very 
warm  exposure. 

50.  The  Black  Raisin  Grape.     The   berries  of  this  variety  are 
oval,  and  black,  with  a  thick  skin  and  a  hard  firm  flesh.      It  forms 
long  handsome  bunches. 

5 1 .  The  White  Raisin  Grape.     The  properties  of  this  grape  are 
nearly  similar  to  the  preceeding,  but  the  berries  are  white. 

52.  The  Damson  Grape.     The  berries   of  this  variety  are  very 
large,  oval,  and  of  a  beautiful  purple  colour.     They  grow  loose  on 
the  bunch,  which  is  large.     The  leaves  of  this  grape  are  large,  and 
more  thick  and  succulent  than  those  of  any  other  sort,  and  have 
something  of  the  appearance  of  green  leather. 

53.  The  Comichon  Grape.     Has  berries  of  a  remarkable  shape; 
they  are  about  an  inch  and  a  half  long,  their  breath  not  half  an  inch. 
They  taper  from  the  stalk,  but  not  in  a  regular  manner,  and  end  in  a 
blunt  point,  according  to  the  French  something  like  a  horn  ;  But  its 
figure  is  more   like  the  long  end  of  a  small  fish's  bladder.     The 
berries  are  white,  with  a  thick  skin  and  a  firm  sweet  flesh. 

54.  The    JVeiv  Muscat  of  Jerusalem.      This  variety  has  large 
round  berries  of  a  red  colour,  nearly  as  large  as  middle  sized  goose- 
berries. 

55.  The  Black  Prince.     This  has  fine  large    black  berries,  and 
the  bunches  grow  to  a  large  size,  frequently  to  a  pound  and  a  half. 

American  Species  of  Vine. 

The  following  species  of  the  Vine  are  indigenous  in  America. 

1st.  The  Vitis  si/lvestris,  or  common  bunch  grape. 

2d.  The  Vitis  -vuljuna,  of  Bartram ;  V.Labrusca,  of  Lin.  or  Fox- 
grape. 

3d.  The  Vitis  taurina,  of  Bartram,  or  Vitis  Vulpina  of  Lin.  com- 
monly called  the  Bull  or  Bullet-grape. 

4th.  The  Vitis  ssrotina,  or  winter-grape,  by  some  called  the  Ber- 
mudian-gritpe. 

There  are  several  varieties  produced  by  the  intermixtures  of  the 
above,  with  one  another,  or  with  the  varieties  of  the  Vitis  -vinifcra^ 


MARCH.]  THE  VINEYARD.  235 

which  are  called  hybrids  or  mules  ;  the  most  noted  are,  1.  Alex- 
ander's or  Tasker's  grape  ;  2.  Eland's  grape  ;  3.  That  called  the 
Racoon-grape.  From  either  of  these  hybrids,  it  is  probable  that 
good  wine  may  be  produced  ;  but  I  shall  leave  that  to  the  experi- 
ence of  those  who  have  made,  or  wish  to  make  the  experiment.  At 
the  same  time,  I  would  suggest  the  idea  of  grafting  some  of  the 
best  European  kinds,  on  our  most  vigorous  native  vines,  which,  no 
doubt,  would  answer  a  very  good  purpose. 

Soil  and  Situation. 

The  first  and  most  important  thing,  to  be  considered  in  plant- 
ing a  Vineyard,  is  the  choice  of  soil  and  situation  ;  for  on  these,  de- 
pend much  of  the  ultimate  success.  That,  best  adapted  for  a 
Vineyard,  is  a  light,  rich,  deep,  loam  ;  on  a  chalky,  limestone,  flinty, 
or  gravelly  bottom  ;  it  should  be  naturally,  from  one  to  two  feet  deep, 
of  good  mellow  earth,  ormade  so  by  art:  a  deeper  soil  is  unnecessary 
for  any  tree  or  shrub  whatever,  that  is  not  cultivated  on  accour  tofits 
roots;  and  although  Vines  may  shoot  more  vigourously  in  such, 
and  produce  a  greater  quantity  of  fruit,  which,  by  the  bye,  is  very 
questionable,  yet  they  ripen  later,  and  their  juice  is  more  crude, 
than  that  of  those  which  draw  their  nourishment,  from  earth  within 
the  influence  of  the  sun,  air,  rains,  dews,  &c. 

The  situation  should  be  on  an  an  elevation,  inclining  to  the  south, 
south-east,  or  south-west ;  and  if  having  all  these  exposures,  the 
better,  as  the  various  kinds  could  have  different  situations  according 
to  their  natures,  and  necessities.  The  ground  should  have  -a  gra- 
dual descent,  that  the  moisture  may  be  drained  off;  but  if  toq  rapid, 
it  will  be  more  difficult  to  labour,  as  the  plough  cannot  then  be  used  ; 
and  besides,  it  will  be  less  retentive  of  manure,  and  consequently 
will  require  a  greater  quantity,  and  more  frequently  administered. 
If  at  a  distance,  there  are  large  hills,  or  elevated  woods,  to  defend 
it  from  the  north  and  north-westerly  winds,  the  better. 

The  immediate  neighbourhood  should  be  open;  and,  if  hilly, 
towards  the  north,  and  north-west,  the  better :  it  should  be  free 
from  swamps,  or  widely  extended  woods  ;  for,  under  such  circum- 
stances, the  air  would  frequently  be  replete  with  too  great  a  quan- 
tity of  moisture,  occasioned  by  the  perspiration  of  the  trees,  and 
the  exhalations  from  the  adjoining  swamps,  whereby  both  vines  and 
fruit  would  be  greatly  subjected  to  what  is  called  the  mildew.  It 
has  been  observed,  in  the  middle  states,  particularly  by  Mr.  Peter 
Legaux,  of  Spring-Mill,  near  Philadelphia,  that  the  more  easterly 
the  exposure,  the  more  are  the  vines  and  fruit  liable  to  become 
mildewed ;  and  that,  in  a  south-west  exposure,  they  are  less  sub- 
ject to  it  than  in  any  other. 

Those  who  wish  to  cultivate  grapes  for  the  table  only,  and  that 
have  not  the  advantage  of  the  kind  of  soil  above  described,  need  not 
despair  of  having  good  fruit  for  that  purpose,  as  vines  will  grow 
and  bear  well  in  any  dry  and  tolerably  rich  ground  ;  that  is,  neither 
sandy  nor  light  to  excess,  nor  too  clayey  or  binding  ;  for  a  tolerably 
stiff  loam  will  do  well  enough,  with  the  assistance  of  good  cul- 
ture. 


236  THE  VINEYARD.  [MARCH; 


Preparation  of  the  Soil. 

Having  made  choice  of  soil  and  situation,  the  next  thing  to  be 
done,  is  to  prepare  it  for  planting  ;  in  doing  of  which,  the  follow- 
ing method  is  to  be  observed.  In  the  Spring,  if  the  soil  is  not 
naturally  rich,  give  it  a  good  coat  of  well  rotted  manure,  or  com- 
post ;  and  immediately  plough  it  in  as  deep  as  can  be  done,  with 
four  or  six  stout  horses,  or  oxen,  and  a  strong  plough  ;  after  it  has  lain 
a  month,  cross  harrow  it,  and  cleanse  it  from  stones  and  the  roots 
of  noxious  weeds.  About  the  middle  of  June,  cross  plough  it 
again  as  deep  as  possible  ;  in  three  weeks  after,  harrow  it,  and 
clear  off  all  the  roots  of  weeds  and  large  stones.  Towards  the 
latter  end  of  August,  plough  it  again,  and  harrow  as  before.  In 
November,  give  it  another  very  deep  ploughing,  and  let  it  lay  so 
all  winter,  without  harrowing.  As  early  in  the  month  of  March 
following,  as  you  find  it  sufficiently  dry,  and  in  a  good  state  for  til- 
lage, but  not  before,  plough  it  across  the  hill,  and  as  deep  as  you 
can,  running  the  plough  twice  in  each  score ;  then  harrow  it  well, 
and  you  have  it  in  a  fine  state  for  planting. 

In  some  ground,  and  very  frequently  in  that  extremely  well 
adapted  to  the  culture  of  the  vine,  the  declivity  is  too  great  to  cul- 
tivate it  with  the  plough  ;  in  which  case,  it  must  be  done  with  the 
spade,  and  other  manual  implements  ;  and  it  would  be  well,  if 
such  land  could  be  thrown,  or  banked  up  into  terrasses,  each  capa- 
ble of  receiving  one,  two,  or  three  rows  of  vines,  the  better  to  re- 
tain the  necessary  manure  and  moisture. 

Preparations  for  Planting,  &c. 

Being  provided  with  a  number  of  four  feet  stakes,  in  proportion 
to  the  quantity  you  intend  planting,  and  made  as  directed  in  Janu- 
ary, page  4 1  ;  mark  out  your  ground,  in  rows  ranging  north  and 
south,  as  well  as  east  and  west,  by  placing  those  stakes  at  intervals 
of  six  feet  distance  every  way,  so  as  it  may  be  convenient  to  plough 
and  harrow  between  the  rows  in  these  directions.  This  is  meant 
for  a  south  exposure  ;  but  in  others,  they  are  generally  arranged 
up  and  down  hill,  as  well  as  across ;  though  the  former  direction 
may  be  given  to  the  rows  in  any  situation,  and  perhaps  with  more 
advantage,  as  to  ease  of  culture,  and  benefit  of  the  sun. 

Six  feet,  plant  from  plant,  every  way,  will  not  be  too  great  a  dist- 
ance, however  it  may  appear  at  first  view  ;  especially  in  a  country, 
•where  Providence  has  been  very  bountiful,  in  blessing  its  inhabitants 
with  abundance  of  ground,  as  well  as  with  every  thing  else,  that  tend 
to  make  an  industrious  man  happy;  for,  if  planted  too  close,  there 
will  not  be  room  for  the  sun  and  air  to  pass  freely  between  the  rows, 
to  ripen  the  fruit  and  dry  up  the  moisture  and  autumnal  damps, 
•which  would  otherwise  be  imbibed  by  the  fruit,  and  render  it  crude 
and  insipid  ;  and  more  particularly  so,  when  their  stocks  grow  large, 
and  their  branches  proportionably  extend  themselves  on  each  side. 


MARCH.]  THE  VINEYARD.  237 

The  next  thing  to  be  considered,  is  the  choice  of  proper  sorts. 
It  is  worthy  of  particular  notice,  that  the  best  grapes  for  eating,  are 
for  the  most  part,  the  worst  for  making  wine.  This  is  agreeable  to 
the  practice  of  cider-makers,  who  always  prefer  the  rough,  juicy, 
and  austere  kinds  of  apples,  to  those  that  are  considered  best  for  the 
table,  and  also  to  that  of  the  most  skilful  Vigncrons  of  Europe,  who 
are  very  particular  in  selecting  such  kinds  of  grapes,  whose  juice 
after  being  pressed  and  properly  fermented,  affords  a  vinous  rich 
liquor. 

The  Awvernat  JVoir^  or  true  Burgundy  grape,  is  the  kind  most 
preferred,  and  in  the  greatest  repute  in  Burgundy,  Champagne^ 
Orleans^  and  most  of  the  wine  countries  in  France.  The  Munur,  is 
also  in  great  repute ;  but  as  far  as  I  have  yet  observed,  I  have  seen 
no  kind  more  likely  to  answer  for  making  good  wine  in  America, 
than  the  Constantia,  or  Cape  of  Good  Hope  grape  *,  and  with  either 
of  these,  the  Claret  Grape,  to  heighten  and  enliven  the  colour, 
when  red  wine  is  intended  to  be  made. 

But  as  this  business  is  yet  in  its  infancy  here,  and  as  the  differ- 
ence of  soil  and  climate,  is  well  known  to  make  a  material  change 
in  the  produce  of  the  same  kind  of  grape  ;  experiments  must  be 
made  on  the  various  sorts,  in  order  to  ascertain,  which  may  best 
answer  the  purpose. 

I  shall  now  proceed  to  the  different  methods  of  propagating  the 
Vine,  and  then  to  its  planting. 

Propagation  in  general. 

The  Vine  admits  of  being  propagated  various  ways :  first,  by 
seeds ;  secondly,  by  layers  ;  and  thirdly,  by  cuttings.  This  tree 
can  also  be  propagated  by  grafting,  inoculation,  and  inarching. 

Propagation  by  seed,  is  undoubtedly  the  way  to  raise  new  kinds, 
but  is  seldom  practised,  on  account  of  the  length  of  time,  and  hazard 
of  obtaining  better,  or  even  so  good  kinds,  as  the  original  grapes 
from  whence  the  seeds  were  taken  ;  but  this  should  never  deter, 
for  superior  kinds  may  be  obtained,  and  a  seedling  Vine,  judiciously 
managed,  will  produce  fruit  in  about  seven  years,  or  perhaps 
sooner. 

Propagation  by  Seed. 

When  you  raise  Vines  from  seed,  always  be  sure  to  do  it  from 
the  very  best  kinds.  The  grapes  for  seed  should  be  permitted  to 
remain  on  the  plant,  until  they  are  perfectly  ripe.  As  soon  as  the 
seed  is  taken  from  the  pulp,  it  should  be  laid  in  some  airy,  but 
shady  place,  to  dry,  and  then  carefully  preserved  in  sand  till  spring. 
If,  however,  the  seeds  were  immediately  sown  in  pots,  and  preserv- 

*  This  Grape,  was  imported  from  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  some  years 
ago,  by  MR.  L-EGAUxof  Spring  Mill,  before  mentioned,  who  forseveral  years 
past,  has  made  wine  from  it,  of  a  most  excellent  quality,  and  also  from  the 

Municr. 


238  THE  VINEYARD.  [MARCH, 

ed  in  a  hot-house,  green-house,  or  under  the  protection  of  glasses, 
till  spring,  they  would  then  more  freely  vegetate.  Or,  sow  the 
seed  in  February  or  March,  and  plunge  the  pots  into  a  temperate 
hot-bed ;  when  the  plants  appear,  they  will  require,  from  time  to 
time,  gentle  sprinklings  of  water,  and  protection  from  frost  and 
cold.  When  so  far  advanced,  as  to  have  three  or  four  joints  each, 
they  must  be  carefully  shaked  out,  and  planted  each  in  a  separate 
pot. 

The  greatest  care  will  be  required  in  the  performance  of  the 
above  operation,  as  it  will  be  beneficial  to  preserve  as  much  of  the 
earth  to  the  roots  as  possible  :  then  plunge  the  pots  into  a  gentle 
hot-bed  ;  give  the  plants  a  little  water,  and  occasional  shade  from  a 
strong  sun,  till  they  have  taken  root ;  after  which,  give  them  plenty 
of  air  occasionally,  so  as  to  inure  them  to  the  open  weather,  and  have 
them  fit  to  turn  out  of  the  pots  in  July,  with  the  balls  of  earth, 
wherever  they  are  intended  to  remain  ;  and,  from  thence  forward, 
they  may  be  treated  exactly  in  the  same  manner  as  recommended 
hereafter,  for  plants  raised  from  cuttings,  only  that  they  will  re- 
quire some  slight  protection  from  the  frosts  of  the  ensuing  winter. 

Propagation  by  Layers. 

When  the  Vine  is  intended  to  be  propagated  by  layers,  the  best 
shoots  of  the  preceding  season  that  can  be  most  conveniently 
brought  to  the  earth,  are  to  be  chosen  for  that  purpose.  After  mak- 
ing the  ground  light  and  fine  with  the  spade,  each  shoot  must  be 
fastened  with  a  hooked  stick,  about  five  or  six  inches  below  the  sur- 
face, with  the  tops  somewhat  erect,  and  cut  so  as  to  leave  but  two 
buds  above  ground  :  this  work  may  be  done,  at  any  time  when  the 
weather  permits,  from  the  middle  or  beginning  of  October,  till  the 
end  of  March,  or  rather  until,  and  at  the  time  of  spring  pruning ; 
for,  if  done  much  later,  the  top  of  the  layer  where  cut,  and  even  the 
parts  bent  in  the  operation,  would  bleed,  which  would  injure  it 
-considerably.  Some  give  them  a  slit,  where  inserted  into  the  earth, 
but  they  will  root  freely  with  or  without  such. 

During  summer,  if  the  weather  proves  dry,  a  little  water  occa- 
sionally would  be  of  use  to  them ;  just  so  much  as  will  keep  the 
ground  in  a  moist  state.  The  autumn,  or  spring  following,  the 
layers  may  be  taken  off  from  the  mother  plants,  their  tops  pruned, 
the  extreme  ends  of  the  stems  beyond  the  young  roots  cut  off  close 
to  them,  and  so  planted  where  they  are  to  remain  ;  but  I  would  pre- 
fer doing  this  early  in  March. 

This  is  a  very  useful  and  necessary  operation,  when  any  of  your 
plants  in  the  Vineyard  are  bad  kinds,  or  in  an  indifferent  state  of 
health  ;  for  you  can  extend  the  end  of  a  long  shoot  from  a  neigh- 
bouring plant,  to  where  the  bad  plant  was,  or  stands,  entering  it  into 
the  earth  as  before,  where  you  wish  it  to  grow,  and  the  next  season 
you  will  have  a  fine  vigorous  plant ;  observing, 'then,  to  detach  it 
from  the  mother  vine,  by  cutting  off  the  connection  close  to  its  new 
established  roots  ;  or,  you  may  lay  it  all  the  way  in  the  earth  from 
the  mother  plant,  to  where  you  desire  its  top  to  grow,  and  in  a  year 


MARCH.]  THE  VINEYARD.  239 

disconnect  them,  near  to  the  old  plant ;  this  will  be  the  better  way, 
provided  you  lay  it  in  deeper  than  the  ordinary  culture,  to  secure 
it  from  being  disturbed  thereby.  This  the  French  call  Pro-vigner 


Propagation  by  Cuttings. 

The  method  of  propagating  the  Vine  by  cuttings,  is  in  more 
general  practice,  than  by  that  of  layers,  and  very  justly  ;  for,  plants 
raised  in  the  latter  way,  are  found  to  be  much  inferior  to  those 
raised  by  cuttings,  both  in  point  of  vigour  and  durability. 

The  particulars  necessary  to  form  a  good  cutting,  are  principally 
these  :  1st.  The  eye,  or  bud,  should  be  large  and  prominent.  2d. 
The  shoots,  moderately  strong,  round  and  short-jointed.  3d.  The 
texture  of  the  wood  should  be  close,  solid,  and  compact ;  but  the 
best  criterion  of  its  maturity,  is  its  solidity,  and  having  very  little 
pith  :  it  is  absurd  to  expect  good  success,  or  prosperous  plants, 
from  wood  imperfectly  ripened. 

Unskilful  persons  frequently  choose  remarkably  strong  shoots 
for  cuttings :  the  extraordinary  size  is  one  of  the  least  necessary 
requisites ;  indeed,  exceeding  strong  shoots  generally  abound  too- 
much  with  pith,  and  are  too  long  jointed  to  claim  a  preference. 

In  the  proper  pruning  season,  which  in  the  middle  states  I  con- 
ceive to  be  the  latter  end  of  February,  or  first  week  in  March, 
much  earlier  in  the  southern  states,  and  very  little  later  in  the  east- 
ern ;  take  your  cuttings  from  the  old  vines,  near  to  where  they 
were  produced ;  cut  off  the  lower  end  of  each  in  a  sloping  manner, 
half  an  inch  below  a  bud,  and  the  upper  end  in  like  manner,  an 
inch  above  one,  having  the  slope  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
bud,  and  leaving  the  cutting  from  twelve  to  sixteen  inches  long ; 
but  twelve  is  sufficient,  if  short-jointed,  and  furnished  at  least  with 
four  or  five  good  buds. 

There  can  be  but  one  firime  cutting  obtained  from  each  shoot, 
though  many  persons  cut  these  into  several  lengths,  and  plant  them 
all,  which  should  not  be  done,  except  in  cases  of  necessity  ;  for,  the 
upper  parts  are  never  so  well  ripened  as  the  lower,  on  account  of 
these  being  produced  at  an  earlier  period,  and  having  the  advantage 
of  the  whole  season  to  perfect  their  maturity.  The  upper  parts 
being  soft  and  spongy,  admits  the  moisture  too  freely,  which  often 
prevents  their  growth,  and  even  should  they  succeed,  they  will  not 
produce  fruit  so  soon,  nor  will  they  bear  so  abundantly  for  many- 
years,  as  those  whose  wood  is  close,  compact,  and  already  organ- 
ized for  fruitification. 

Some  people  recommend  taking  off  the  cuttings,  with  an  inch 
or  two  of  the  two  years  old  wood  annexed  ;  but  this  is  unnecessa- 
ry, and  even  injurious,  unless  the  species  of  plant  which  you  are 
propagating,  is  extremely  pithy  and  spongy,  like  the  fig  ;  for,  the 
nearer  we  approach  to  nature's  method,  by  having  as  little  old  wood 
as  possible  about  the  root  of  a  young  plant,  the  better. 

When  the  cuttings  are  thus  prepared,  they  should  be  laid  in 
trenches,  close  to  each  other,  in  some  dry  part  of  the  Vineyard, 


240  THE  VINEYARD.  [MARCH. 

and  covered  with  earth  to  within  two  inches  of  their  tops,  where 
they  are  to  remain  till  you  are  ready  to  plant  them  ;  covering  them 
in  frosty  or  parching  weather,  with  some  loose,  dry  litter,  which  is 
to  be  taken  off  every  mild  day,  that  they  may  the  more  effectually 
be  inured  to  the  open  air.  This  is  the  best  method  of  preserving 
them,  even  during  the  entire  winter.  I  do  not  approve  of  keeping 
cuttings,  for  any  length  of  time,  in  close,  dark,  unventilated  cellars  ; 
for  in  such  places  they  become  weak,  blanched,  tender  and  sickly, 
and  seldom  succeed  well  when  planted  out ;  besides,  they  have  no- 
thing to  imbibe,  whilst  there,  but  foul  air,  which  vitiates  their  juice$> 
and  brings  on  diseases  and  bad  health. 

Method  of  Planting. 

Having  your  ground  prepared,  and  marked  out  with  stakes  as 
before  directed,  and  your  cutting  in  readiness  ;  so  soon  after  the 
middle  of  this  month,  as  you  find  the  soil  dry  and  in  good  order, 
proceed  to  planting  in  the  following  manner :... .Take  up  a  number 
of  your  cuttings  carefully,  without  injuring  the  buds,  and  place 
them  in  a  bucket  of  dung  water,  about  six  inches  deep,  the  bucket 
having  a  handle  for  the  convenience  of  carrying  it  from  place  to 
place  :  then,  at  each  stake,  make  a  hole  with  a  spade,  about  a  foot 
deep,  and  as  wide  as  you  please,  but  it  will  be  better  to  have  all 
these  holes  made  the  day  before  you  commence  planting ;  into  each  put 
one  strong  cutting,  placing  it  a  little  sloping,  and  so  deep,  that  the  se- 
cond bud  from  the  top,  may  be  just  on  a  level  with  the  general  sur- 
face ;  immediately  fill  the  hole  with  earth,  pressing  it  gently  with 
your  feet  to  the  cutting,  and  drawing  the  loose  earth  round,  so  as  to 
cover  the  second  bud,  before  noticed,  half  an  inch  deep  ;  which  bud, 
so  protected,  will  frequently  make  the  most  vigorous  shoot,  and 
often  succeed,  when  the  top  bud,  exposed  to  the  weather  will  not ; 
then  drive  down  the  stake,  so  as  to  make  it  firm,  within  three 
inches  of  the  plant. 

If  your  cuttings  are  not  extremely  good  and  fresh,  and  such  as 
may  be  depended  on,  it  will  be  the  more  certain  way  to  plant  two 
in  each  hole,  the  tops  within  a  few  inches  of  each  other,  and  the 
lower  ends  sloping  in  opposite  directions,  for  the  greater  conve- 
nience, if  both  should  succeed,  of  removing  one,  without  disturb- 
ing the  other  ;  these  extra  plants  may  be  made  use  of  next  season, 
to  fill  up  vacancies,  or  to  form  anew  plantation. 

Cuttings  are  generally  preferred  for  this  purpose  to  rooted  plants, 
as  they  are  thought  to  establish  themselves  more  effectually  when 
not  removed  ;  however,  when  such  are  to  be  planted,  keep  their 
roots  out  of  ground  but  as  short,  a  time  as  possible  ;  and  if  im- 
mersed, when  taken  up,  in  a  pap  of  earth  and  water,  or  dm  g 
and  water,  the  better :  plant  them  in  the  same  manner  as  directed 
for  the  cuttings,  pruning  their  heads,  and  observing  to  place  their 
roots,  after  first  shortening  any  long  stragglers,  in  a  spreading 
manner  in  the  earth,  and  then  cover  them  up  as  before. 

It  is  necessary  that  each  particular  kind  of  grape  should  be 
planted  in  separate  quartersj  that  they  may  all  be  gathered,  when 


MARCH.]  THE  NURSERY. 

< 

ripe,  without  injuring  others  ;  for  when  planted  in  a  mixed  confus- 
ed way,  the  going  through  the  different  quarters  to  pull  the  fruit  of 
a  vine,  here  and  there,  is  very  inconvenient,  and  often  the  later 
ripening  intervening  kinds  are  injured  thereby. 

If  your  ground  is  intended  to  be  cultivated,  after  plant- 
ing, with  the  plough,  you  must  leave  sufficient  head  lands  for  the 
horses  to  turn  on. 

In  the  course  of  this  month,  as  soon  after  pruning  as  the  ground 
is  dry  and  in  a  good  condition  for  tillage,  plough  and  harrow  be- 
tween the  rows  of  your  former  plantations  of  vines,  previously  giv- 
ing such  quarters,  as  need  it,  a  dressing  of  well  rotted  manure  ; 
and  dig,  or  give  a  deep  hoeing,  to  such  places  as  cannot  be  come 
at  with  the  plough. 


THE   NURSERY. 

Grafting. 

IT  is  too  difficult  a  task  to  state  the  precise  time  of  grafting 
the  various  kinds  of  fruit  and  other  trees,  in  the  different  climates 
and  states  of  the  Union  ;  but,  as  I  cannot  do  this  with  preci- 
sion, and  must  confine  myself,  in  this  article,  to  the  periods  most 
suitable  for  performing  that  operation  in  the  middle  states,  where  I 
am  best  acquainted  with  the  seasons,  I  will  give  such  hints  as  will 
lead  to  a  perfect  knowledge  of  the  true  periods  for  grafting,  in  every 
country,  and  every  place. 

The  best  time  for  grafting,  in  the  middle  states,  is  generally 
from  the  twentieth  of  March  to  the  tenth  of  April,  a  few  days  ear- 
lier or  later,  as  vegetation  may  happen  to  be  in  an  advanced  or  re- 
tarded state,  which  sometimes  makes  a  difference  of  ten  or  twelve 
days. 

Grafting  is  always  most  successful,  when  done  at  the  period  that 
the  buds  of  your  stocks  are  swelled,  so  as  to  be  nearly  ready  to 
burst  into  leaf :  this  is  the  time  in  which  the  greatest  success  may 
be  expected,  and  should  be  very  particularly  attended  to  ;  however) 
if  done  a  few  days  before,  or  even  when  the  stocks  display  several 
expanded  leaves,  there  may  be  a  tolerable  good  hit,  provided  the 
operation  is  judiciously  performed. 

Your  cions  or  grafts  must  be  taken  off,  about  a  month  or  three 
weeks  before  this  crisis,  or  so  soon"  as  you  are  able  to  perceive  the 
least  disposition  in  their  buds  to  swell ;  for,  if  not  cut  off  in  proper 
time,  the  grafts  will  not  take  kindly,  nor  will  they  shoot  so  vigo- 
rously. 

i  i 


21.2  THE  NURSERY.  [MAKCS. 

The  proper  sorts  to  begin  with,  in  respect  to  fruit-trees,  are 
cherries  and  plums,  and,  if  you  please,  peaches,  nectarines  and 
apricots  ;  but  the  latter  kinds  are  generally  propagated  by  budding 
or  inoculation.  Pears,  filberts  and  apples,  may  be  grafted  at  the 
same  time  ;  but  the  latter  may  be  deferred  for  ten  days  longer  than 
either  of  the  former,  provided  the  cions  were  taken  off  in  due 
time  ;  pears  will  also  agree  with  tolerable  late  grafting. 

Before  I  proceed  to  the  methods  of  grafting,  it  will  first  be  ne- 
cessary to  mention,  what  stocks  are  proper  to  graft  the  different  kinds 
of  fruit  upon  ;  for  instance,  apples  should  be  grafted  upon  stocks 
raised  from  the  kernels  of  the  same  kind  of  fruit ;  that  is,  any 
kind  of  apples  ;  for  the  grafts  or  buds  of  these  trees  will  not  take 
well,  upon  any  other  stocks. 

It  should  be  observed,  that  for  dwarf  apple-trees  for  walls  or  es- 
paliers, or  for  small  standards,  they  should  generally  be  grafted 
upon  codlin  apple  stocks,  raised  either  from  suckers  from  the  root, 
or  by  cuttings  or  layers  :  for  the  stocks  raised  from  these  are  never 
so  luxuriant  in  growth,  as  those  of  the  larger  growing  apple-trees  ; 
and,  consequently,  trees  grafted  upon  such  stocks  will  be  slower 
in  growth,  and  can  more  easily  be  kept  within  due  compass,  so 
will  answer  the  purpose  for  dwarfs  or  espaliers,  &c.  much  better 
than  those  grafted  on  larger-growing  kinds.  Or,  if  required  to 
have  them  of  still  more  dwarfish  growth  for  small  gardens,  you 
may  use  stocks  of  the  Dutch  paradise  apple,  and  Siberian  crab,  Sec. 

But,  for  the  general  supply  of  apple-stocks  for  common  stand- 
ards, and  large  espalier  trees,  they  are  raised  principally  from 
the  seed  of  any  sort  of  apples  or  wild  crabs. 

Pears  are  generally  grafted  or  budded  upon  stocks  raised  also 
from  kernels  of  any  of  their  own  kinds  of  fruits,  or  occasionally 
upon  stocks  raised  from  suckers  ;  they  likewise  are  very  commonly 
grafted  upon  quince  stocks,  whereby  to  have  trees  of  more  mode- 
rate growth,  to  form  dwarfs ;  and  which  are  generally  raised  by 
seed,  cuttings,  layers,  or  suckers  ;  and  the  pears  grafted  or  budded 
upon  these  stocks,  are  very  proper  for  walls  or  espaliers,  and  occa- 
sionally for  small  standards.  Sometimes  also,  pears  are  grafted  upon 
white-thorn  stocks  ;  but  this  is  improper  for  any  general  practice, 
not  being  so  successful,  and  never  producing  so  good  fruit,  as  if 
grafted  on  stocks  of  their  own  family. 

Cherries  are  propagated  by  grafting  or  budding  them,  upon  stocks 
raised  from  the  stones  of  the  common  black  or  red  cherry,  or  upon 
stocks  raised  from  the  stones  of  any  other  kind  of  the  same  fruit ;  but 
the  two  first  are  most  esteemed  for  that  purpose,  because  they  ge- 
nerally shoot  much  freer  than  any  other. 

Plums  are  grafted  or  budded  on  stocks,  raised  by  sowing  the 
seeds  of  any  or  either  of  the  plum  kinds  ;  but  those  raised  from  the 
vigorous  growing  sorts  are  most  preferable  :  they  are  also  grafted 
on  stocks  raised  from  suckers,  but  such  should  not  be  used,  unless 
when  seedling  stocks  cannot  be  had.  Plums  will  likewise  take  on 
the  apricot,  but  then  the  trees  are  not  permanent. 

The  apricot  proves  the  most  durable  on  stocks  of  the  plum  kind. 
It  will  also  grow  on  its  own,  and  on  peach  and  almond  stocks  ;  but 
on  either  of  the  two  last,  it  will  net  be  durable. 


MJLRCH.J  THE  NURSERY.  243 

For  peaches  and  nectarines,  several  sorts  of  stocks  are  occasion- 
ally used  ;  such  as  plum,  peach,  almond,  and  apricot  stocks,  all  rais- 
ed from  the  stones  of  the  fruit,  and  the  first  kind  from  layers  and 
suckers  also.  If  a  plum  could  be  procured  of  such  vigorous 
growth,  as  to  keep  pace  with  the  peach,  it  would  be  an  acquisition 
of  infinite  importance  ;  for  on  such,  the  peach  would  be  as  perma- 
nent as  the  plum  itself.  In  Europe,  all  their  peach-trees  are  worked 
on  the  plum  ;  but  with  us,  the  growth  of  the  peach  is  so  rapid,  as 
in  a  few  years  to  overgrow  the  stock,  when  wrought  on  any  of  the 
kinds  of  plum  which  we  have  yet  procured.  The  kind  particularly 
selected  for  this  purpose  in  Europe,  is  the  muscle-plum. 

Almonds  will  take,  and  grow  on  any  stock  which  answers  for  the 
peach. 

Medlars  will  grow  on  either  medlar,  white-thorn,  pear,  or  quince 
stocks  ;  but  those  of  its  own  genera,  are  preferable. 

Filberts  will  succeed  by  budding  or  grafting  on  the  common 
hazel-nut  tree,  raised  either  from  the  nuts,  or  by  suckers  from  the 
roots. 

The  first  thing  to  be  done  towards  this  work,  is  to  select  the 
grafts,  in  the  choice  of  which,  the  following  directions  should  be 
observed.  1st.  That  they  are  shoots  of  the  former  year;  for, 
when  they  are  older,  they  never  succeed  well.  2dly.  Always 
to  take  them  from  healthy  fruitful  trees  ;  for,  if  the  trees  from 
which  they  are  taken  be  sickly,  the  grafts  very  often  partake  so 
much  of  the  distemper,  as  rarely  to  get  the  better  of  it,  at  least  for 
some  years ;  and  when  they  are  taken  from  young  luxuriant  trees, 
whose  vessels  are  generally  large,  they  will  continue  to  produce 
strong  shoots,  but  will  be  a  h>ng  time  coming  into  bearing,  and 
are  seldom  so  productive,  as  those  which  are  taken  from  fruitful 
trees,  whose  shoots  are  more  compact,  joints  closer  together,  and 
whose  system  is  already  organized  for  bearing.  Sdly.  You  should 
prefer  those  grafts  which  are  taken  from  the  lateral  or  horizontal 
branches,  to  those  from  the  strong  perpendicular  shoots,  for  the 
reasons  before  given. 

When  your  grafts  are  cut  off,  open  shallow  trenches  in  a  dry 
sheltered  situation,  and  place  them  thinly  therein,  with  their  cut 
ends  down,  drawing  up  the  earth  so  as  that  they  may  be  covered 
two-thirds  of  their  length  ;  then  lay  some  light  litter  thinly  over 
their  tops,  to  prevent  their  drying.  If  a  small  joint  of  the  last 
year's  wood  be  taken  off  with  the  cion,  it  will  preserve  it  the  better  ; 
for  the  old  wood  being  more  compact  than  the  new,  will  prevent  its 
imbibing  too  much  moisture  from  the  earth,  whilst  kept  there,  and 
that  can  be  cut  away,  when  you  take  them  up  for  grafting.  If  grafts 
are  to  be  carried  to  any  considerable  distance,  it  will  be  proper  to 
pack  them  up  in  earth,  and  surround  them  with  damp  moss,  if  but 
a  small  quantity,  to  prevent  its  drying  too  soon. 

Always  prefer  stocks,  which  were  raised  in  the  Nursery  from 
seed;  next  to  these,  those  raised  from  layers  and  cuttings;  and, 
last  of  all,  such  as  were  produced  from  suckers  ;  for  the  last  will 
continue  to  throw  up  suckers  from  their  roots,  much  more  abund- 
antly than  any  of  the  former,  to  the  great  annoyance  of  the  borders, 


244  THE  NURSERY.  [MARCH. 

garden,  or  orchard ;  which  are  not  only  unsightly,  but  they  also 
take  off  a  great  part  of  the  nourishment  from  the  trees. 

When  you  intend  to  change  the  fruit  of  an  old  espalier,  or  wall- 
tree,  always  graft  on  fresh  healthy  branches,  and  as  near  the  trunk 
as  such  are  to  be  found ;  ten  or  a  dozen  grafts  may  be  necessary  to 
furnish  the  tree,  the  more  immediately,  with  the  kind  or  kinds  de- 
sired. For  a  standard,  six  or  eight  cions,  will  be  sufficient  to  answer 
a  similar  purpose,  always  observing  to  cut  out  the  far  greater  part, 
if  not  the  whole,  of  the  old  branches,  previous  to  grafting,  and  the 
remainder,  as  the  young  grafts  advance  in  growth. 

For  this  purpose,  you  must  be  provided,  1.  With  a  strong  knife, 
to  cut  off  the  heads  of  the  stocks  previous  to  the  insertion  of  the 
grafts.  2.  With  a  neat  small  hand-saw,  for  occasional  use,  in  cut- 
ting off  the  heads  of  some  large  stocks,  for  crown-grafting.  3. 
With  a  grafting-chissel  and  small  mallet,  for  clefting  large  stocks, 
for  the  reception  of  the  cions  in  cleft-grafting.  4.  With  a  neat  and 
very  sharp  pruning-knife,  for  cutting  and  shaping  the  grafts,  and 
for  sloping  and  forming  the  stocks  for  their  reception  ;  and  5.  With 
a  quantity  of  new  bass  strings  ;  or,  if  bass  cannot  be  had,  with  soft 
woollen  yarn,  to  tie  the  parts  close,  secure  the  grafts,  and  thereby 
to  promote  their  speedy  union  with  the  stocks. 

The  next  thing  to  be  provided,  is  a  quantity  of  grafting  clay,  which 
should  be  prepared,  at  least  ten  days,  previous  to  its  being  wanted 
for  use  ;  to  be  applied  closely  round  the  grafts,  at  the  places  of  in- 
sertion into  the  stocks,  and  a  little  above,  in  order  to  prevent  the 
air  from  exhausting  the  sap  of  the  cions,  before  they  could  be  sup- 
plied with  a  sufficiency  from  the  stocks  ;  and  also  to  keep  out  wet, 
which  would  greatly  obstruct  the  uniting  of  the  parts  :  it  is  to  be 
made  in  the  following  manner. 

Get  a  quantity  of  strong  fat  loam,  in  proportion  to  the  number  of 
trees  to  be  grafted  ;  then  take  about  a  fourth  part  of  fresh  horse- 
dung,  free  from  litter,  or  a  third  part  of  cow-dung,  it  matters  not 
which  you  make  use  of;  or,  if  you  please,  you  may  use  a  propor- 
tionate quantity  of  each,  mixing  them,  or  either  of  them,  well  with 
the  loam  ;  add  to  it  a  small  quantity  of  hay,  cut  very  fine,  and  also 
some  salt,  which  will  prevent  it  from  cracking  or  drying  too  fast  in 
hot  or  parching  weather  ;  work  the  whole  well  together,  and  add 
as  much  water  as  necessary  ;  after  which,  beat  and  incorporate  the 
mass  effectually,  after  the  manner  of  mortar,  and  continue  so  to 
work  it  every  other  day,  adding  a  little  water  as  it  becomes  dry,  till 
the  time  you  want  it  for  use.  Be  very  particular,  during  this  pe- 
riod, riot  to  expose  it  to  frost,  or  drying  winds ;  and  the  more  ef- 
fectually you  incorporate  it,  the  better  will  it  answer  your  purpose. 
Some  people  use  a  composition  of  bees-wax,  rosin  and  turpentine, 
melted  together,  to  put  round  the  grafts  in  the  manner  of  clay,  but 
laid  on  warm  and  much  thinner.  This  I  conceive  to  be  too  ex- 
pensive, and  am  certain,  from  experience,  that  it  does  not  answer 
the  end  a  whit  better,  nor  even  so  well,  as  the  former,  if  properly 
made. 

Observe,  that  the  stocks  to  be  grafted,  if  intended  for  dwarf- 
trees,  for  espaliers  or  walls,  must  be  headed  down  to  within  five  or 


MARCH.]  THE  NURSERY.  045 

six  inches  of  the  ground  ;  but  if  for  full  standards,  they  may  be 
headed  and  grafted  at  five  or  six  feet  high,  or  in  fact,  at  any  height 
you  please,  even  at  the  surface  of  the  ground,  but  more  particularly 
apples  and  pears  ;  for  you  can  afterwards  train  the  graft  on  a  single 
clean  stem,  as  high  as  you  like,  and  then  top  it,  to  cause  it  to 
throw  out  side  branches  for  forming  a  head  :  this  is  the  best  method 
to  treat  stunted  or  ill  formed  stocks,  but  is  not  necessary  for  those 
that  are  well  thriven  and  straight ;  for  by  it  you  would  lose  a  year 
of  their  growth,  as  you  can  immediately  form  the  head  from  the 
graft,  when  inserted  at  a  proper  height ;  for  dwarf  and  half  stand- 
ards, you  may  head  and  graft,  at  the  height  of  two,  three,  or  four 
feet. 

There  are  various  methods  of  grafting  in  practice  ;  such  as  whip- 
grafting,  cleft- grafting,  crown-grafting,  side-grafting,  root-grafting 
and  grafting  by  approach  or  inarching  ;  but  the  two  former  are  in 
more  general  use  among  experienced  gardeners,  particularly  the 
first,  as  being  every  way  preferable  to  any  other,  when  the  stocks 
are  under  an  inch  in  diameter. 

First)  by    Whip-grafting. 

This  kind  of  grafting  is  that  most  commonly  practised  in  nur- 
series, as  being  both  the  most  expeditious  and  successful,  and  may 
be  performed  upon  smaller  stocks,  than  any  other  ;  for  it  is  effect- 
ed with  the  greatest  success  upon  such  as  are,  from  about  half  an 
inch,  or  less,  to  near  an  inch  in  diameter  :  the  method  of  perform- 
ing the  work  is  this. 

Having  the  cions  .or  grafts,  knife,  bandages,  and  clay  ready; 
then  begin  the  work  by  cutting  off  the  head  of  the  stock,  at  some 
clear  smooth  part  thereof ;  generally  performing  this,  by  one  clean 
slanting  cut  upwards,  so  as  to  form  a  slope  on  one  side  about  an 
inch  and  a  half,  or  two  inches  in  length,  and  make  a  notch  or  small 
slit,  from  near  the  upper  part  downwards,  a  little  better  than  half  an 
inch  long,  to  receive  the  tongue  of  thecion  ;  then  prepare  thecion, 
by  cutting  it  to  five  or  six  inches  in  length,  preferring  the  lower 
or  thick  part,  and  cutting  the  bottom  end  on  one  side  also,  in  a  slop- 
ing manner,  the  length  of,  and  to  fit  the  slope  of  the  stock,  as  if 
cut  from  the  same  place  ;  that  the  rinds  of  both  may  join  as  nearly 
as  possible  in  every  part,  as  if  you  were  splicing  a  fishing-rod  ;  but 
when  the  stock  is  much  larger  than  the  cion,  this  cannot  be  done  so 
exactly,  unless  you  insert  it  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  stock  to  the 
slope  ;  however,  that  will  not  be  necessary,  provided  you  join  the 
rinds  or  bark  of  both,  so  as  to  fit  neatly  on  either  edge  or  side  of  the 
slope  ;  then  make  a  slit  upwards  in  the  slope  of  the  cion,  so  as  to 
form  a  sort  of  tongue  to  fit  that  made  in  the  slope  of  the  stock, 
which  insert  therein,  so  that  the  rinds  of  both  may  join  together 
exactly,  at  least  at  one  side,  and  immediately  tie  the  parts  together 
with  a  ligature  of  bass,  &c.  bringing  it  in  a  neat  manner  several 
times  round  the  stock  and  graft,  moderately  tight,  and  fastened  ac- 
cordingly. 


246  THE  NURSERY.  [MARCH. 

This  done,  clay  the  whole  over  near  an  inch  thick  on  every  side, 
from  an  inch  below  the  bottom  of  the  graft,  to  the  same  above  the 
top  of  the  stock,  finishing  the  coat  of  clay  in  a  longish  oval  form, 
closing  it  effectually  in  every  part,  and  tapering  it  up  to  the  cion  to 
prevent  the  wind,  sun,  or  rain  reaching  the  grafted  parts,  till  the 
union  is  effected  ;  observing  to  examine  it  now  and  then  ;  and  if  any 
part  falls  off,  or  cracks  appear,  such  must  be  immediately  repaired 
with  fresh  clay. 

Expert  Nursery-Gardeners,  generally  perform  whip-grafting 
with  four  cuts  ;  two  in  heading  and  slitting  the  stock,  and  the  same 
in  sloping  and  tonguing  the  graft,  inserting  it  immediately,  being 
followed  by  one  or  two  persons  to  tie  and  clay  them. 

This  sort  of  grafting  may  also  be  performed,  if  necessary,  upon 
strong  young  shoots  of  any  bearing  tree,  if  intended  to  alter  the 
kind  of  fruit,  or  have  more  than  one  sort  on  the  same  tree. 

By  the  middle  or  latter  end  of  May,  the  grafts  will  be  well  united 
with  the  stocks,  as  will  be  evident  by  their  shooting  ;  the  clay  may 
then  be  taken  off,  but  suifer  the  bandages  to  remain  on,  till  the 
united  parts  seem  to  swell,  and  be  too  much  confined  thereby. 

Seco?id)  by  Cleft- grafting. 

This  is  called  Cleft- grafting,  because  the  stock  being  too  large 
for  whip-grafting,  is  cleft  or  slit  down  the  middle  for  the  reception 
of  the  cion,  and  is  performed  upon  stocks  from  about  one  to  two 
inches  diameter,  and  may  be  practised  with  success  where  the  rind 
of  the  stock  is  not  too  thick,  whereby  the  inner  bark  of  the  cion 
will  be  prevented  from  closely  joining  that  of  the  stock,  which 
junction  is  absolutely  necessary  to  form  a  complete  union  of  the 
parts. 

First,  with  a  strong  knife,  cut  off  the  head  of  the  stock  ;  or,  if 
the  stock  is  very  large,  it  may  be  headed  with  a  small  saw. 

This  done,  fix  upon  a  smooth  part,  just  below  where  headed,  and 
on  the  opposite  side  to  that,  cut  away  part  of  the  stock,  about  an 
inch  and  a  half,  in  a  sloping  manner  upwards,  so  as  the  crown  of  the 
stock  may  not  be  more  than  about  half  an  inch  broad,  which  slope 
and  crown  are  to  be  cut  smooth  and  neat.  Then  prepare  your 
grafts  or  cions  in  the  following  manner  :  observe  to  cut  them  into 
proper  lengths  of  about  six  inches,  with  several  eyes  or  buds  to 
each ;  then  take  your  sharpest  knife,  and  pare  away  the  bark  and 
some  of  the  wood  at  the  lower  end  of  the  graft  in  a  sloping  man- 
ner, about  an  inch  and  a  half  or  near  two  inches  in  length  on  oppo- 
site sides,  making  it  to  have  a  wedge-like  shape  ;  but  let  that  edge, 
which  is  to  be  placed  outwards  in  the  stock,  be  left  thicker  than  the 
other,  and  with  the  rind  continued  thereon.  The  graft  being  pre- 
pared, take  your  strong  knife  or  chissel,  and  place  it  on  the  middle 
of  the  stock,  not  across,  but  contrary  ways,  to  the  sloped  part,  and 
with  a  small  mallet,  strike  the  knife  or  chissel  into  the  stock, 
observing  to  cleave  it  no  farther  than  what  is  necessary  to  admit  the 
graft  readily  ;  then  place  the  knife,  or  some  small  instrument,  a 
little  way  into  the  cleft,  at  the  sloped  part  of  the  stock,  to  keep  it 


MARCH.]  THE  NURSERY,  247 

open  for  the  reception  of  the  graft,  which  directly  introduce  into 
the  cleft  on  the  top  of  the  stock,  at  the  back  of  the  slope  ;  inserting 
it  with  great  exactness,  as  far  as  it  is  cut,  with  the  thickest  edge 
outwards,  and  so  that  the  rind  may  meet  exactly  every  way  with 
that  of  the  stock.  The  graft  being  placed,  then  remove  the  knife 
or  wedge,  taking  care  not  to  displace  the  cion  ;  this  done,  let  it  be 
tied  and  well  clayed  in  the  manner  directed  above,  in  the  work  of 
whip  or  tongue-grafting. 

Or,  if  you  choose  to  put  in  two  grafts,  it  may  be  performed  on 
large  stocks,  which  must  be  twice  cleft,  parallel  to  each  other,  and 
so  fix  the  cions  as  above,  in  opposite  sides. 

This  method  of  grafting  may  be  performed  occasionally,  on  the 
xipright  branches  of  bearing  trees,  when  intended  either  to  renew 
the  wood,  or  change  the  sort  of  fruit. 

When  the  grafts  have  shot  five  or  six  inches,  take  off  the  clay 
and  bandages,  and  cover  the  wounded  parts  of  the  stocks  with  fresh 
grafting-clay,  which  will  protect  them  from  the  influence  of  the 
weather,  and  accelerate  the  growth  of  the  bark  over  the  wounds  ; 
let  this  claying  remain  on  till  it  falls  off  of  itself:  this  second  clay- 
ing is  more  necessary  to  large,  than  to  small  stocks,  but  will  be  very 
useful  to  either. 

Third)  by  Croivi: -grafting. 

The  third  kind  of  grafting  is  known  by  the  name  of  crown-graft- 
ing, as  sometimes  three,  four,  or  more  grafts  are  inserted  round  the 
crown  of  the  stock,  in  a  circular  order,  introduced  betwixt  the  bark 
and  the  wood. 

This  way  of  grafting  is  commonly  practised  upon  such  stocks 
as  are  too  large  and  stubborn  to  cleave,  and  is  often  performed  upon 
the  branches  of  apple  and  pear-trees,  &c.  that  already  bear  fruit, 
when  it  is  intended  to  change  the  sorts,  or  to  renew  the  tree  with 
fresh  bearing  wood. 

The  manner  of  doing  it,  is  as  follows : 

First,  to  cut  off  the  head  of  the  tree  or  stock  level,  or  of  any 
particular  branch  of  a  tree  which  you  intend  to  graft,  and  pare  the 
top  perfectly  smooth  ;  then  prepare  your  cions,  which  is  done  by 
cutting  one  side  fiat  and  slbping,  about  two  inches  in  length,  making' 
a  kind  of  shoulder  at  the  top  of  the  cut,  to  rest  on  the  head  of  the 
stock  ;  and  pare  off  a  little  off  the  bark  towards  each  edge  of  the 
graft ;  then  prepare  to  insert  it,  which,  in  this  order  of  grafting, 
must  be  effected  by  introducing  the  sloped  part  down  betwixt  the 
bark  and  wood  of  the  stock;  first  slitting  the  bark  or  rind  from  the 
top  downwards,  clean  through  to  the  firm  wood,  two  inches  or  two 
and  a  half  in  length ;  and  having  a  small  thin  wedge  of  iron  or 
wood,  open  therewith  the  rind  of  the  stock  a  little  at  the  top  of  the 
slit,  by  introducing  it  gently  down  betwixt  the  wood  and  rind,  far 
enough  to  make  way  for  admitting  the  graft ;  then  drawing  it  out, 
insert  the  cioi>,  with  the  cut  sloped  side  towards,  and  close  to  the 
wood  of  the  stock,  slipping  it  neatly  down  the  length  of  its  cut  part, 
renting  the  shoulder  thereof,  prepared  as  ubove,  upon  the  top  of  the 


248  THE  NURSERY.  [MARCH. 

stock  ;  and  in  this  manner  you  may  put  four,  five,  or  more  grafts, 
as  may  seem  convenient,  into  each  stock,  and  bind  them  round  with 
strong  bass. 

When  the  grafts  are  all  thus  fixed,  you  must  immediately  apply 
a  good  quantity  of  well-wrought  clay,  bringing  it  close  about  the 
stock  and  grafts,  observing  to  raise  it  at  least  an  inch  above  the  top 
of  the  stock,  in  a  rounding  manner,  so  as  to  throw  the  wet  quickly 
off,  and  prevent  its  lodging  or  getting  into  the  work,  which  would 
ruin  all. 

This  method  of  grafting,  is  sometimes  called  shoulder-grafting, 
and  grafting  in  the  rind,  and  was  much  more  in  practice  formerly, 
than  at  present ;  for  although  the  grafts  take  freely,  they  are  liable 
to  be  blown  out,  by  strong  winds,  after  they  have  made  large  shoots, 
which  have  frequently  happened  after  three  or  four  years  growth,  so 
that  when  this  method  is  practised,  the  evil  must  be  remedied  by 
tying  some  firm  sticks  to  the  body  of  the  stock  or  branch  that  is 
grafted,  to  which  the  young  shoots  must  be  tied,  or  they  must  be 
made  fast  to  some  convenient  support  that  will  answer  the  same 
end ;  or  even  tying  them  to  one  another,  should  the  grafts  take  on 
opposite  sides  of  the  stock,  will  answer  a  good  purpose. 

This  kind  of  grafting  may  be  performed  a  week,  or  ten  days, 
later  than  the  other  methods  ;  for  it  will  prove  most  successful,  if 
done,  when  the  sap  begins  to  be  in  active  motion,  as  then  the  bark  of 
the  stock  will  separate  from  the  wood  more  freely,  to  admit  the 
graft. 

When  the  cions  are  well  taken,  treat  them  as  directed  under  the 
head  Cleft-grafting. 

Fourth,  by  Side-grafting. 

This  is  done  by  inserting  grafts  into  the  sides  of  the  branches 
without  heading  them  down,  and  may  be  practised  upon  trees  to  fill 
up  any  vacancy,  or  for  variety,  to  have  several  sorts  of  fruit  on  the 
same  tree. 

It  is  performed  thus  :  fix  upon  such  parts  of  the  branches  where 
wood  is  wanting,  to  furnish  the  head,  or  any  part  of  the  tree  ;  there 
slope  off  the  bark  and  a  little  of  the  wood,  and  cut  the  lower  end  of 
the  graft  to  fit  the  part  as  near  as  possible  ;  then  join  it  to  the 
branch,  first  tonguing  both  as  in  whip-grafting,  tie  them  with  bass, 
and  clay  them  over. 

Fifth,  by  Root -Graf ting. 

This  is  done  by  whip-grafting  cions  upon  pieces  of  the  root,  turn- 
ed up,  about  half  an  inch  thick,  either  as  the  roots  remain,  or  se- 
parated, and  immediately  replanted. 

Here  it  will  be  well  to  observe,  that  grafting  is  frequently  done, 
and  very  often  with  good  success,  without  the  assistance  of  graft- 
ing-clay, or  any  other  prepared  composition.  The  method  is  this : 
head  down  your  stocks  near  the  surface  of  the  ground,  and  graft 
them  as  low  as  you  possibly  can  ;  bind  them  neatly,  as  in  other 
cases,  and  draw  the  earth  over  the  crowns  of  the  stocks^  so  as  to  let 


MARCH.]  THE  NURRSERY.  249 

one  or  two  of  the  buds  of  each  cion  appear  ;  look  to  them  frequent- 
ly, and  if  the  earth  sinks  so  as  to  expose  the  crowns  of  the  stocks, 
cover  them  up  again. 

When  the  cions  are  sufficiently  taken,  clear  off  the  earth,  un- 
bind the  bandages,  and  then  replace  it  as  before.  Trees  grafted  in 
this  way,  may  afterwards  be  trained  up,  either  for  standards,  half 
standards,  espaliers,  or  wall  trees,  at  pleasure. 

It  sometimes  happens  that  persons  are  under  the  necessity,  in 
spring,  of  removing  some  stocks,  when  in  the  way  of  other  busi- 
ness ;  in  which  case,  they  are  frequently  taken  into  the  house,  and 
grafted  in  any  method  most  convenient,  then  planted  immediately: 
this  is  called  by  gardeners  fire-side  grafting,  and  often  proves  tole- 
rably successful  j  but  I  would  not  recommend  it,  except  in  cases  of 
necessity. 

Grafting  by  Afifiroach,  or  Inarching. 

This  method  of  grafting  is  performed  only,  when  the  stock,  and 
the  tree  from  which  you  mean  to  propagate,  either  grow,  or  can 
be  placed  so  near  each  other,  that  the  intended  graft  may  be 
brought  to  approach  and  join  the  stock  ;  forming  therewith,  when 
grafted,  a  kind  of  arch,  and  not  to  be  separated  from  the  mother 
plant,  till  a  perfect  union  is  formed  :  hence  its  name. 

When  intended  to  propagate  any  tree  or  shrub,  by  this  method  ; 
if  of  a  hardy  nature,  and  growing  in  the  open  ground,  the  requi- 
site quantity  of  young  plants  for  stocks  should  be  planted  round  it, 
and  when  grown  of  a  proper  size  or  height,  the  work  performed  : 
or,  if  the  branches  of  the  tree  designed  to  graft  from,  are  too  high 
for  the  stocks,  these  must  be  planted  in  pots,  (if  a  year  previous 
to  the  operation  the  better)  and  placed  upon  a  temporary  stage 
erected  round  the  tree,  of  sufficient  height  to  answer  the  purpose. 

In  performing  this  work,  make  choice  of  a  smooth  part  of  the 
stock,  and  with  which  the  intended  graft  can  be  conveniently 
brought  to  meet,  marking  on  each  the  place  of  junction  ;  then  cut 
away  the  bark  and  a  part  of  the  wood,  from  two  to  three  inches  in 
length,  both  of  the  stock  and  cion  ;  after  which,  make  a  slit  up- 
wards in  the  cion,  so  as  to  form  a  tongue,  and  another  downwards 
in  the  stock,  as  directed  for  whip-grafting,  and  insert  the  one  into 
the  other,  making  all  parts  fit  in  an  exact  manner,  particularly 
the  rinds  or  barks,  and  tie  them  closely  together  with  bass  ;  after 
which,  cover  the  whole  with  a  due  quantity  of  grafting  clay,  as  di- 
rected in  the  other  methods.  In  this  mode  of  grafting,  the  cion  is 
not  separated  from  the  tree,  until  it  is  firmly  united  with  the  stock, 
nor  is  the  head  of  the  latter,  generally,  cut  off,  till  this  time, 
though  it  is  sometimes  performed  with  the  head  of  the  stock  cut 
off,  under  the  idea  that  its  whole  efforts  would  then  be  directed 
to  the  nourishment  of  the  graft,  which  is  not  of  as  much  advantage 
as  might  be  imagined. 

If  the  plants  which  you  inarch,  are  exposed  to  strong  winds,  it 
will  be  proper  to  make  them  fast,  either  to  stakes  stuck  into  the 

Kk 


250  THE  NURSERY. 

ground  for  that  purpose,  or  to  some  other  more  convenient  sup- 
port, to  prevent  their  being  displaced  thereby. 

The  slocks  and  grafts  are  to  remain  for  three  months,  or  upwards, 
before  you  unbind  them  ;  at  the  expiration  of  that  time,  take  off  the 
clay  and  bandages,  and,  if  well  taken,  separate  the  graft  from  the 
mother  plant,  being  careful  to  do  this  with  a  perfectly  sharp  knife, 
cutting  it  off  with  a  slope  downwards  to  the  stock  ;  and  if  not  done 
in  grafting,  the  head  of  the  stock  must  also  be  cut  off  close  to  the 
giaft,  and  afterwards  the  stem  kept  free  from  any  undershoots.  If 
at  this  time  the  graft  and  stock,  particularly  if  not  extremely  well 
united,  were  tied  again,  gently  as  before,  fresh  clayed,  and  those 
suffered  to  remain  on  for  a  month  or  five  weeks,  it  would  be  of 
considerable  advantage. 

The  walnut,  fig,  and  mulberry,  with  many  other  trees,  which 
do  not  succeed  by  the  common  methods  of  grafting,  will  take  free- 
ly by  this,  and  also  various  kinds  of  evergreens.  It  is  in  frequent 
use  to  ingraft  a  fruit-bearing  branch,  upon  a  common  stock  of  the 
same  family,  by  which  means  you  have  a  tree  with  many  fruit,  in  a 
few  months,  that  would  take  perhaps  as  many  years,  when  left  to 
nature,  before  it  would  shew  a  single  one.  This  is  frequently  prac- 
tised on  orange  trees,  and  other  green-house  plants. 

This  method  of  grafting  is  not  to  be  performed  so  early  in  the 
season  as  the  others,  its  being  most  successful  when  the  sap  is 
flowing  ;  in  the  middle  states,  I  would  recommend  doing  it  towards 
the  latter  end  of  April.  But  it  is  not  to  be  practised  where  the 
other  methods  will  succeed  ;  for  trees  propagated  in  this  way,  are 
always  observed  to  grow  more  weakly,  and  never  to  the  size  of 
those  which  are  propagated  by  budding,  or  the  other  modes  of 
grafting. 

Grafting  Peaches,  Nectarines,  and  Ajiricots. 

Peaches,  nectarines,  and  apricots,  will  succeed  by  grafting,  but 
propagating  them  by  inoculation  is  much  preferable ;  however,  if 
you  graft  them,  let  it  be  done  early,  always  before  they  shew  flow- 
ers, having  their  cions  taken  off'  three  weeks  previous  to  the  time 
of  performing  the  operation,  and  deposited  in  the  earth  till  that  pe- 
riod, as  before  directed  for  those  of  other  fruit  trees  ;  in  the  choice 
of  which  you  must  be  very  particular,  so  as  to  get  the  best  ripened 
young  wood,  round,  plump,  and  short  jointed,  and  with  very  little 
pith ;  all  these  will  take  as  freely  on  plum  stocks,  as  on  their 
own  kinds,  and  if  intended  for  walls  or  espaliers,  will  be  more  per- 
manent, as  they  are  not  so  subject  to  be  destroyed  by  worms. 
Grafting  may  be  also  performed,  to  any  desirable  extent,  on  most 
kinds  of  forest  and  ornamental  trees,  such  as  elm,  ash,  oak,  holly, 
althea-frutex,  Sec.  &c.  whose  cions  are  not  soft-wooded,  nor  too  full 
of  pith. 

Management  of  Fruit -Trees,  grafted  and  budded  last   Year. 

Those  fruit-trees  which  were  grafted  last  year,  should  now  hav< 
their  shoots  shortened,  that  they  "may  send  forth  lateral  branches  t( 
form  regular  heads  ;  if  they  are  intended  for  espaliers  or  wall- 
trees,  observe  the  method  recommended  in  page  -Ob  •  if  for  stand- 


MARCH.]  THE  NURSERY.  251 

ards,  the  stems  must  be  trained  up  to  a  proper  height,  and  then 
topped,  or  some  of  the  shoots  shortened,  so  as  to  produce  hand- 
some well  furnished  heads. 

The  stocks,  which  were  budded  the  last  summer,  and  in  which 
the  buds  still  remain  dormant,  should  now  have  their  heads  cut  off, 
a  little  above  the  budded  parts  ;  by  which  means  the  whole  nourish- 
ment will  go  to  the  inoculations,  which  will  soon  begin  to  advance 
their  first  shoots. 

In  proceeding  to  this,  cut  the  head  of  the  stock  off  sloping,  be- 
hind the  inoculated  bud,  either  almost  close  thereto,  or  about  a 
hand's  breadth  above  it ;  which  part  of  the  stock  remaining  above, 
will  serve  for  tying  thereto  the  first  shoot  from  the  bud  in  summer, 
to  secure  it  from  the  wind,  but  must  be  cut  down  close  next  spring. 

The  stumps  left  last  season  for  a  similar  purpose,  should  now  be 
cut  off  close  to  where  the  bud  was  inserted,  cutting  them  effectu- 
ally in  to  the  clean  fresh  wood,  in  order  that  the  wounds  may  cover 
over  and  heal,  which  will  be  effected  in  one  season,  if  no  spotted  or 
unsound  wood  be  left. 

Transplanting  Stocks  to  bud  and  graft  upon. 

Make  new  plantations  of  stocks,  to  bud  and  graft  the  different 
kinds  of  choice  fruit  upon. 

Many  of  those  raised  from  seeds,  &c.  last  year,  will  now  be 
ready  for  this  purpose. 

Let  these  be  planted  out  as  soon  in  the  month  as  the  weather 
will  permit;  in  rows  three  or  four  feet  asunder,  and  at  least  twelve 
inches  distance  from  one  another  in  the  row.  They  should  be  plant- 
ed by  line,  either  dibbling  in  the  small  plants,  or  the  larger  ones 
trenched  or  holed  in  with  the  spade  ;  or  you  may  cut  out  small 
trenches  by  line,  placing  the  plants  therein  at  the  above  distance, 
and  turn  the  earth  in  upon  their  roots,  treading  it  gently  along. 

Solving  Stones  to  raise   Stocks  for  Grafting. 

Where  plum,  peach,  apricot  and  cherry  stones,  &c.  were  ne- 
glected, or  could  not  in  consequence  of  the  weather  be  sown  last 
month,  let  it  be  done  as  early  in  this  as  possible,  agreeably  to  the 
rules  laid  down  in  page  144,  which  see. 

Sowing  Kernels  of  Apples,  Pears  and  Quinces,  for  Stocks. 

If  the  sowing  of  these  were  neglected,  or  impracticable  last 
month,  let  it  be  done  as  early  in  this  as  possible,  sowing  them  tole- 
rably thick  in  beds,  and  covering  them  with  light  dry  earth,  a  little 
better  than  half  an  inch  deep.  These  will  be  fit  to  plant  out  in  nur- 
sery rows  next  season  :  but  they  would  succeed  much  better,  if 
sown  in  October  or  November,  if  not  carefully  preserved  in  sand 
or  earth,  or  unless  they  are  at  the  time  of  sowing,  taken  fresh  out 
of  the  fruit.  See  page  149. 


252  THE  NURSERY.  [MARCH. 


Sowing  Haws,  for  raising  Thorn-quicks. 

It  will  be  necessary  to  sow  your  haws  as  early  in  this  month  as 
possible,  if  not  clone  in  the  last,  for  the  reasons  assigned  in  the 
Nursery,  for  February,  page  144,  &c.  where  you  will  find  ample 
directions,  both  for  the  preparation  and  spwing  of  the  seeds,  &c. 

You  may  any  time  this  month,  particularly  after  the  middle,  or 
towards  the  latter  end,  take  up  your  one  or  two  year  old  seedling 
quicks,  out  of  the  beds  where  they  were  raised,  and  plant  them  into 
nursery  rows,  as  directed  in  page  147.  Should  it  be  your  intention 
to  let  them  remain  in  those  rows,  to  grow  to  a  large  size,  the  more 
immediately  to  make  a  fence  when  planted  out,  set  them  at  greater 
distances  than  there  directed,  but  they  always  succeed  best,  when 
planted  young. 

During  the  continuance  of  the  plants  in  those  rows,  they  must 
be  kept  free  from  weeds,  and  each  spring  and  autumn  it  will  be  ne- 
cessary to  dig  between  them  to  loosen  the  earth,  which  will  greatlf 
strengthen  and  invigorate  their  growth. 

Live  Hedges. 

Live  hedges  are  already  become  objects  of  serious  importance, 
particularly  in  those  parts  of  the  Union  in  which  timber  has  got 
scarce,  and  must  inevitably  become  more  so  in  a  very  rapid  pro- 
gression ;  therefore,  the  sooner  the  citizens  turn  their  attention  .to 
the  cultivation  and  planting  of  them,  the  greater  portion  of  their 
benefits  will  they  themselves  enjoy,  and  the  sooner  will  they  lay 
the  foundation  of  a  rich  inheritance  for  their  children,  and  of  an 
ornamental  and  useful  establishment  for  their  country. 

Our  farmers  not  being  accustomed  to  the  making  of  live  hedges, 
may  for  some  time  be  very  tardy  in  attempting  it ;  those  of  the 
greater  penetration  will  not  hesitate  a  moment,  but  commence 
immediately  ;  others  will  look  on  for  years  to  see  the  result,  which 
will  be  so  much  time,  profit  and  pleasure,  lost  to  themselves,  and 
consequently,  a  proportionate  injury  done  to  their  posterity. 
Some  will  try  the  experiment ;  but  in  such  a  half  way,  negligent 
slovenly  manner,  as  to  insure  disappointment  ;  I  would  advise  such 
to  hold  fast  by  the  jiost  and  rail,  and  not  to  lose  time  in  doing  more 
harm  than  good. 

It  has  been  asserted,  that  any  other  than  ground  hedges,  that  is, 
such  as  are  established  on  the  plain  surface,  without  a  ditch,  are  un- 
necessary in  the  United  States  ;  but  why  in  the  United  States,  any 
more  than  in  those  countries,  that  ages  of  experience  and  necessity 
has  taught  to  give  a  decided  preference  to  the  hedge  and  ditch  ? 
Such  may  succeed  in  very  good  ground,  and  with  uncommon 
care,  but  it  is  an  incontrovertible  and  well  known  fact,  that  a  hedge 
and  ditch  will  make  a  more  formidable  fence  in  three  years,  than  a 
ground  hedge  will  in  ten. 

Having  now  given  my  decided  and  unequivocal  opinion,  as  to 
which  is  preferable,  for  outward  fences,  I  shall  proceed  to  give  the 
best  instructions  in  my  power,  for  the  formation  of  both  ;  the  more 


»ARCH.]  THE  NURSERY.  253 

especially  as  the  ground-hedge  is  the  neatest  and  most  eligible  for 
internal  hedges,  in  gardens  and  pleasure  grounds. 

The  hawthorn,  of  all  other  kinds,  is  the  most  suitable  for  outward 
fences;  and  here  I  think  it  necessary  to  remark,  that  the  common 
European  white-thorn,  or  Cratxgus  Oxyacantha  of  Linnasus,  appears 
to  answer  well  in  America,  but  is  not  of  so  rapid  growth,  as  our 
cockspur  thorn,  or  Cartcegus  Crus  galli  ;  the  former  makes  a  closer 
and  thicker  hedge,  but  not  more  formidable,  nor  so  immediately  as 
the  latter.  We  have  many  varieties  of  native  hawthorns,  as  des- 
scribed  in  page  147,  Sec.  either  of  which  will  answer  very  well,  and 
convenience  must  be  considered  in  respect  to  choice  ;  but  when 
choice  can  be  made,  a  preference  should  be  given  to  the  cockspur 
thorn,  or  rather  to  that  kind  which  is  observed  to  grow  most  luxu- 
riantly, in  the  neighbourhood  in  which  it  is  intended  to  be  planted. 

The  Hedge  and  Ditch. 

The  months  of  October,  November  and  December,  will  be  the 
most  eligible  periods,  in  the  southern  states,  for  making  this  kind 
of  fence  ;  particularly,  as  their  frosts  can  do  no  injury  to  the  ditch, 
and  the  roots  will  have  an  early  establishment,  and  consequently 
be  the  better  prepared,  to  encounter  the  summer  heats.  In  the 
middle  and  eastern  states,  I  would  prefer  doing  this  business  in 
March,  or  early  in  April  ;  as  the  ditch,  in  that  case,  would  have 
one  year's  advantage  of  the  frost,  which,  in  some  kinds  of  soil, 
•would  have  a  considerable  effect,  particularly  in  the  first  year,  by 
swelling  the  earth  in  the  face  of  the  ditch,  causing  it  to  moulder 
down,  and  thereby  expose  the  roots  of  the  quicks  ;  but  this  can  be 
obviated,  by  leaving  a  scarcement  in  the  front,  as  hereafter  directed. 

Strong  year  old  quicks  will  answer  very  well  for  laying  in  the  face 
of  a  ditch,  but  such  as  have  had  the  advantage  of  two  year's  growth 
in  nursery  rows,  after  being  transplanted  when  one  year  old  from 
the  seed-bed,  will  sooner  form  a  good  fence,  or  two  year  old  plants 
from  the  seed-bed  will  answer  a  very  good  purpose.  Be  particular 
in  the  taking  of  them  up,  not  to  injure  their  roots  but  as  little  as  pos- 
sible, and  to  sort  them  into  three  different  lots,  the  smallest,  larger, 
and  largest,  and  also  to  plant  each  lot  together  ;  for  the  mixing  of 
the  small  with  the  large,  is  very  injudicious,  as  the  former  in  a  little 
time,  would  be  smothered  and  overgrown  by  the  latter,  and  vacan- 
cies consequently  formed  in  the  hedge. 

Previous  to  planting,  prune  off  the  extremities  of  any  long  strag- 
gling and  wounded  roots,  and  also  cut  off  the  heads  of  the  plants 
about  seven  inches  above  the  earth-mark  where  they  stood  in  the 
ground,  and  likewise  any  side  branches  that  remain  ;  let  no  con- 
sideration  prevent  your  doing  this,  for  on  it  depends  much  of  your 
success. 

Having  your  plants  in  readiness,  and  dressed  in  this  manner,  lay 
them  by  the  heels  in  the  earth,  to  be  taken  up  as  wanted,  lest  their 
roots  should  become  dry  and  be  injured  thereby.  Then  proceed  to 
form  your  ditch,  which  should  be  four  feet  wide  at  least  at  top,  nar- 
rowing with  a  gentle  slope  on  each  side  towards  the  bottom,  to  the 
perpendicular  depth  of  two  feet  and  a  half,  where  it  should  be  one 


254  THE  NURSERY.  [MARCH. 

foot  wide.    The  more  your  ground  is  subject  to  slip  by  heavy  rains, 
the  greater  slope  must  be  given  to  the  bank  side. 

Begin  by  cutting  the  surface  sod  of  the  ditch,  into  squares  of  con- 
venient size,  and  about  three  inches  deep,  having  previously  lined 
out  and  cut  both  sides  with  a  spade,  sloping  inwards  as  above  inti- 
mated, and  lay  a  row  of  them,  with  the  grassy  surface  under,  six 
inches  inward  from  the  edge  on  the  bank  side ;  lay  on  top  of  this 
row  of  sods,  two  inches  of  the  loose  and  mellow  earth,  that  is,  the 
best  the  ditch  affords,  and  also  a  quantity  of  it  behind  them,  for 
about  eighteen  inches  or  two  feet,  breaking  it  very  fine  with  the 
spade  ;  on  this  lay  your  quicks  nearly  in  a  horizontal  manner,  their 
tops  being  a  little  elevated,  and  at  the  distance  of  six  inches  one 
from  the  other,  and  so  far  in,  that  3  or  4  inches  of  their  tops  may 
remain  uncovered  when  the  ditch  is  finished.  Spread  the  roots  to 
advantage,  and  cover  them  well  with  the  mouklry  earth  that  drop- 
ped from  the  surface  sod  :  this  is  necessary,  in  order  to  give  their 
roots  the  advantage  of  the  best  soil,  and  should  on  no  account  be  ne- 
glected. Then  proceed  to  finish  your  ditch  and  bank,  laying  the  re- 
mainder of  the  surface  sods  in  front  of  the  bank,  as  you  had  done 
with  the  first  row,  giving  it  exactly  a  similar'  slope  to  that  of  the 
ditch,  and  the  whole  bank  such  a  form,  as  if  it  was  taken  up  at 
once  out  of  the  ditch,  and  turned  upside  down.  The  scarcement 
left  in  front,  throws  the  bank  so  far  back,  as  not  to  bear  heavily  on 
the  side  of  the  ditch  to  crush  it  down,  and  it  also  will  re- 
ceive and  retain  a  considerable  portion  of  the  rain  that  slides  down 
along  the  face  of  the  bank,  by  which  means  the  earth  in  front  will 
be  kept  in  a  more  moist  state,  than  if  no  such  thing  was  left. 

Were  you  to  lay  in  two  rows  of  quicks  in  the  front,  the  second 
eight  or  nine  inches  above  the  first,  and  the  plants  in  each  row  nine 
or  ten  distant,  placing  those  of  the  upper,  opposite  the  intervals  of 
the  lower,  it  would  be  the  most  effectual  method  of  making  a  better 
and  more  immediate  fence.  A  very  slight  paling,  on  top  of  the 
bank,  that  will  defend  the  quick  for  three  years,  will  be  sufficient ; 
and  if  the  land  in  front  is  not  in  cultivation,  but  under  stock,  a  si- 
milar fence  may  be  necessary  to  prevent  their  going  into  the  ditch, 
and  reaching  the  plants  ;  but  if  you  take  particular  care  to  keep 
them  constantly  wed,  for  the  two  first  years,  which  is  absolutely  ne- 
cessary, or  all  is  lost  labour,  they  will  have  the  less  inducement  to 
approach  them. 

There  are  many  other  methods  of  making  hedge  and  ditch 
fences  ;  but  having  found,  from  ample  experience,  the  above  to  be 
the  most  successful,  I  shall ?confine  myself  exclusively  to  it,  lest 
too  much  speculation  might  lead  people  astray,  and  retard  the  pro- 
gress of  this  important  business. 

Ground-Hedges. 

The  best  method  of  planting  a  hedge  on  a  level,  or  without  a 
ditch,  is  to  plough  a  slip  of  ground  on  each  side  of  the  intended 
line  of  fence  the  preceding  spring,  and  having  previously  dunged 
it,  to  plant  it  with  potatoes ;  taking  the  ordinary  care  to  keep 


MARCH.]  THE  NURSERY.  .255 

it  free  from  weeds  during  the  period  of  their  growth.  In  au- 
tumn, the  potatoes  being  removed,  the  entire  slip  should  be 
ploughed  deep,  gathering  it  up  towards  the  centre,  and  in  October 
or  March,  having  your  quicks  previously  raised  in  the  Nursery,  as 
directed  in  that  department  in  February,  to  the  height  of  two  or 
three  feet,  take  up  the  plants  carefully  without  injuring  their  roots, 
prune  off  the  extremities  of  the  roots  and  any  long  straggling 
shoots  of  their  tops,  then  plant  them  in  a  trench  made  along  the 
centre  of  this  slip  of  ground  for  their  reception,  at  the  distance  of 
from  six  to  eight  inches  plant  from  plant,  and  settle  the  earth  well 
into  their  roots  :  observing,  previously  to  planting,  to  match  the 
quicks,  that  is,  to  plant  all  the  larger  sized  together,  for  it  is  im- 
proper, as  before  observed,  to  intermix  the  small  and  large,  as  the 
former  would  be  smothered  by  the  latter,  which  would  occasion  in- 
jurious and  unsightly  breaches  in  the  fence. 

If  you  have  plenty  of  quicks,  it  will  be  of  advantage  to  plant  a 
double  row,  at  the  distance  of  a  foot  from  each  other ;  in  which  cas.e, 
the  plants  may  be  set  ten  inches  apart  in  the  rows,  placing  those  of 
one  row,  directly  opposite  the  intervals  of  the  other.  This  method 
I  would  prefer  to  the  former. 

The  quicks  must  afterwards  be  protected  from  cattle,  by  palings 
or  some  kind  of  dead  fences,  till  they  arrive  at  a  proper  growth  not 
to  be  injured  thereby,  and  for  the  two  first  years  kept  perfectly  free 
from  weeds,  for  without  these  precautions,  it  will  be  in  vain  to  plant 
them. 

The  quicks  being  tolerably  close  planted,  will  need  no  annual  top 
clipping  to  thicken  them  ;  but  it  will  be  very  proper  to  shorten  oc- 
casionally, any  extraordinary  vigorous  top  shoots,  so  as  to  keep  them 
all  pretty  equal,  and  also  such  as  branch  out  too  much  at  the  sides. 
However,  it  would  be  very  advisable  to  give  as  light  dressing  to  the 
sides  every  October  or  March,  for  a  few  years, with  a  pair  of  hedge- 
shears,  which  may  be  done  in  a  short  time,  narrowing  the  hedge  a 
little  towards  the  top,  to  afford  the  benefit  of  the  air,  rain,  and  dews, 
to  the  lower  side-shoots :  this  will  encourage  their  growth,  and 
cause  the  hedge  to  be  well  furnished  from  bottom  to  top. 

When  a  hedge  of  this  kind  is  to  be  made,  it  might  be  the  most 
convenient  way  to  plant  it  within  a  few  feet  of  some  established  post 
and  rail  fence,  and  erect  another  as  many  feet  from  it  on  the  oppo- 
site side,  each  at  such  a  distance  as  would  be  sufficient  to  keep  off 
cattle  ;  here  it  would  be  effectually  protected  until  arrived  at  a 
proper  height  and  strength,  when  both  these  ranges  of  palings  might 
be  taken  away  to  answer  similar  purposes  ;  but  again  and  again, 
would  I  suggest  the  necessity  of  keeping  the  plants  free  from  the 
annoyance  of  weeds,  durir.g  the  first  two  or  three  years  of  their 
growth,  after  which  they  will  be  completely  furnished  and  out  of 
their  power. 

The  autumn  or  spring  following  after  planting,  examine  your 
hedge,  and  if  any  of  the  plants  have  died,  or  seem  to  be  in  a  very 
bad  state  of  health,  replace  them  with  others  from  the  Nursery, 
placing  some  fresh  earth  to  the  roots  of  each. 


THE  NURSERY.  [MARCH. 


Crab  and  Afifile  Hedges. 

The  common  wild  thorny  crab  will  make  an  excellent  ground,  or 
ditch  hedge,  and  will  thrive  in  a  poorer  soil  than  the  thorn ;  and 
hedges  raised  from  the  pippins  of  apples,  do  tolerably  well  and  form 
strong  fences ;  the  former  is  raised  from  the  pippins,  and  the  latter 
can  be  propagated  in  abundance  by  sowing  the  pumice,  "very  thick) 
immediately  after  being  pressed  for  cyder,  on  a  bed  of  good 
ground  properly  prepared,  and  covering  the  whole  with  fine  light 
earth,  near  an  inch  deep,  a  few  plants  will  appear  soon  after  sow- 
ing, but  a  great  crop  will  come  up  in  spring,  which  may  afterwards 
be  used  for  stocks  to  graft  on,  and  also  for  hedges,  where  more  suit- 
able kinds  cannot  be  had. 

Hornbeam  and  Beech  Hedges. 

Our  indigenous  kinds  of  hornbeam  and  beech,  will  make  admira- 
ble hedges  ;  the  seed  of  the  former,  which  it  produces  here  in  great 
abundance,  will  require  the  same  preparation  and  management  in 
every  respect,  as  directed  for  haws  in  page  144,  &c. 

In  Westphalia  and  other  parts  of  Germany,  the  hornbeam  is  in 
great  repute  for  hedges.  The  German  husbandman  throws  up  a 
parapet  of  earth,  with  a  ditch  on  each  side,  and  plants  his  sets, 
raised  from  layers,  in  such  a  manner,  that  every  two  plants  intersect 
each  other  ;  there  he  cuts  off  the  bark  and  a  little  of  the  wood  from 
each,  and  binds  them  close  together  with  a  hay-band.  The  plants 
unite,  and  form  a  living  palisado,  which  being  pruned  or  dressed 
annually  with  discretion,  will  in  a  few  years  make  an  impenetrable 
fence.  Most  other  kinds  may  be  treated  in  the  same  manner. 

The  seeds  or  mast,  as  they  are  commonly  called,  of  the  beech, 
may  be  sown  as  soon  as  ripe,  but  as  the  ground  mice,  squirrels, 
Scc.are  extremely  fond  of  them,  it  will  be  the  better  way  to  preserve 
them  in  dry  sand  till  March,  to  be  then  sown,  either  in  drills,  or 
broad  cast  in  beds,  covering  them  not  more  than  half  an  inch  deep  ; 
for,  as  they  rise  with  very  broad  seed-leaves,  they  could  never  work 
up  through  a  thick  covering.  The  beech  vegetates  the  first  spring 
after  the  perfection  of  its  seed  ;  the  hornbeam  not  till  the  second. 

Honey-Locust  and  Rim  Hedges. 

The  Gleditsia  triacanthos,  or  honey-locust,  will  make  very  good 
hedges  ;  the  seeds  are  to  be  sown  in  March,  and  covered  half  an 
inch  deep,  they  will- come  up  freely,  and  when  a  year  old,  may*  be 
transplanted  into  nursery  rows,  till  of  sufficient  size  to  plant.  If  to 
be  planted  in  the  face  of  ditches,  they  will  in  the  second  year  be  in 
prime  condition  for  that  purpose. 

The  elm  makes  a  good  hedge, and  is  propagated  by  seed,  suckers,, 
or  layers ;  when  by  seed,  it  should  be  sown  as  soon  as  ripe,  which 
in  the  middle  states,  is  between  the  15th  and  20th  of  May  ;  it  may 
be  sought  for  and  collected  at  that  time,  dried  for  four  or  five  days. 


MARCH.]  THE  NURSERY.  257 

and  then  sown  broad  cast  on  a  bed  of  good  earth,  covering  the  seed 
not  more  than  a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep ;  they  will  vegetate  imme- 
diately, and  when  up,  must  be  kept  very  clean  and  free  from  weeds. 
All  the  kinds  of  elms  may  be  propagated  freely  from  layers,  in  the 
manner  directed  under  that  article. 

Holly  Hedges. 

Of  all  other  plants,  there  is  none  that  makes  a  more  durable, 
close,  and  beautiful  hedge,  than  the  holly ,  nor  one  that  agrees  better 
with  the  shears  :  it  may  be  clipped  and  dressed  to  any  form  ;  the 
seeds  do  not  vegetate  till  the  second  spring  after  their  being  ripe, 
and  consequently  must  be  treated  as  directed  for  haws,  page  144, 
Sec.  They  must  remain  two  years  in  the  seed-bed,  and  then 
should  be  planted  either  in  the  face  of  ditches,  or  into  nursery 
rows,  if  intended  for  ground  hedges  ;  for  which  there  is  no  equal, 
as  to  beauty,  shelter,  and  closeness.  The  latter  end  of  April  is  the 
best  season  to  plant  them  :  they  never  thrive  well  when  taken  out 
of  the  woods,  but  are  very  prosperous  when  cultivated  by  seed, 
though  not  of  rapid  growth  for  a  few  years. 

White  Mulberry  and  Lombardy -Poplar  Hedges. 

The  'white  mulberry  makes  a  tolerable  good  hedge,  and  majr  be 
easily  propagated  by  washing  the  seed  out  of  the  pulp  when  the 
fruit  is  ripe,  drying  and  preserving  it  till  the  latter  end  of  March, 
or  beginning  of  April,  when  it  may  be  sown  on  a  bed  of  light  rich 
earth,  and  covered  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep ;  the  plants  will 
appear  towards  the  latter  end  of  April,  when  they  must  be  kept  care- 
fully wed,  and  when  a  year  old  some  of  them  will  be  fit  to  plant 
into  nursery  rows  ;  the  small  plants  may  remain  in  the  seed-bed  a 
second  year,  and  then  transplanted  either  into  the  face  of  ditches,  or 
nursery  rows,  as  above.  They  are  also  cultivated  by  layers  and 
cuttings,  but  not  so  successfully  by  the  latter,  as  by  either  of  the 
former  methods. 

The  Lombardy  poplar  is  propagated  by  cuttings,  which  grow 
very  freely ;  the  most  eligible  size  for  these,  though  much  larger 
are  frequently  used,  are  such  as  are  from  three  quai-ters  of  an  inch 
to  an  inch  in  diameter,  about  twelve  or  fourteen  inches  long,  and 
are  to  be  planted  two-thirds  of  their  lengths  into  the  earth.  These 
and  the  mulberry  bear  clipping  very  well,  but  not  being  spiny,  they 
never  make  formidable  fences. 

Juniper  and  Red  Cedar  Hedges. 

Juniper  and  red  cedar  make  good  garden  hedges,  particularly  the 
former,  and  are  very  proper  for  affording  shelter  to  such  quarters 
of  the  garden,  or  nursery,  as  are  set  apart  for  the  raising  of  tender 
plants  in ;  both  may  be  propagated  abundantly  from  seeds,  which 
do  not  vegetate  till  the  second  spring  after  ripening,  consequently 
they  must  be  prepared  as  directed  for  haws,  and  when  sown,  should 

Ll 


258  THE  NURSERY.  [MARCH, 

| 

not  be  covered  more  than  a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep  ;  they  may  re- 
main in  the  seed-bed  for  two  years,  if  not  too  thick,  and  then  planted 
into  nursery  rows ;  or  the  largest  may  be  taken  up  when  a  year 
old,  and  planted  therein,  provided,  that  they  have  grown  freely. 
The  juniper  may  be  raised  by  cuttings,  planted  in  a  shady  border, 
towards  the  latter  end  of  this  month. 

Yew  and  Privet  Hedges. 

Yew  and  firi-vet  make  neat  garden  hedges ;  they  are  both  raised 
from  seeds  and  cuttings,  the  latter  planted  in  March,  and  the  seeds 
of  each  are  to  be  treated  as  directed  for  haws,  not  vegetating  the 
first  spring  after  ripening. 

Pyracantha  or  Evergreen-Thorn  Hedges. 

The  Mcsfiilis  Pyracantha,  or  evergreen-thorn,  will  make  a  tole- 
rable good  hedge  ;  it  is  propagated  by  seed,  which  will  not  vegetate 
till  the  second  spring  after  ripening,  and  must  be  treated  accord™ 
ingly. 

Rose  and  Sweet-Briar  Hedges^ 

Wild  roses  and  sweet-briar  are  sometimes  used  for  hedges,  and 
may  either  be  propagated  by  suckers,  layers,  or  seeds.  The  best 
way  to  cultivate  them  for  hedges  is  by  seed,  which  must  be  ga- 
thered in  autumn  when  ripe,  and  preserved,  as  directed  for  hawsy 
till  the  spring  following  twelve  months,  and  then  sown. 

Elder,   Willow,  and  Alder  Hedges. 

The  eldcr-iree  is  sometimes  used  for  hedges,  especially  when  a 
fence  is  wanted  as  soon  as  possible,  being  of  a  more  speedy  growth, 
than  any  other  kind  commonly  used  for  that  purpose,  though  not 
the  most  effectual  nor  beautiful.  However,  an  immediate  fence 
may  be  made  of  it,  by  planting  large  truncheons  or  cuttings  of  the 
straightest  upright  shoots  and  branches,  from  two  or  three,  to  six 
feet  long,  planted  either  upright,  a  foot  asunder,  and  wattled  along 
the  top,  to  preserve  them  firm  and  even  ;  or  by  planting  them 
slanting  across  one  another,  chequerwise,  forming  a  sort  of  lattice 
work,  which  is  the  most  effectual  method.  In  either  way  of  plant- 
ing, do  not  point  and  drive  them  in,  as  is  commonly  done,  but  make 
holes  for  their  reception,  twelve  or  fifteen  inches  deep,  with  a  crow- 
bar ;  then  insert  their  ends,  and  make  the  earth  fast  about  them  : 
•when  driven  down  by  force,  the  bark  is  frequently  stripped,  which 
in  a  great  measure  prevents  their  rooting  freely,  and  pushing  as 
vigorously,  as  if  carefully  planted. 

Various  kinds  of  willows  are  found  extremely  useful,  to  plant 
along  the  sides  of  watry  ditches,  brocks,  rivulets,  or  any  marshy  and 
moist  situations  ;  and  maybe  propagated  by  planting  small  cuttings, 
or  large  truncheons,  as  directed  for  the  elder.  Either  of  these,  yo* 


MARCH.]  THE  NURSERY.  259 

may  treat  the  following,  or  any  succeeding  spring,  as  the  West- 
phalians  do  the  hornbeam,  noticed  in  page  256. 

The  alder  is  sometimes  made  use  of,  as  a  fence,  in  moist  swampy 
places ;  it  is  propagated  abundantly  by  suckers,  layers,  or  seeds. 
The  seeds,  if  sown  in  March,  covered  very  lightly,  and  when  up 
kept  free  from  weeds,  will  grow  prosperously, 

Black  Thorn  Hedges. 

The  blackthorn  or  sloe,  is  a  tolerable  good  shrub  for  a  fence,  but 
is  subject  to  spread  too  much  by  suckers,  by  which  it  can  be  propa- 
gated ;  but  the  best  plants  are  always  produced  from  the  stones  of 
the  fruit,  collected  when  ripe,  and  then  sown ;  or  preserved  in 
•sand  or  earth  till  early  in  March,  when  you  are  to  sow  and  cover 
them  near  an  inch  deep.  They  will  vegetate  the  first  season. 

Plum-leaved  Viburnum  Hedges. 

The  Viburnum  prunifolium^  or  black  haw,  is  an  indigenous  plant, 
and  well  adapted  for  hedges.  It  may  be  propagated  in  abundance 
by  collecting  the  berries  in  autumn,  and  managing  them  in  every 
respect  as  directed  for  haws. 

Note When  you  have  but  small  quantities  of  such  seeds  as  rer 

quire  a  year's  preparation  previous  to  sowing,  you  may  mix  them 
with  light  sandy  earth  ;  which  mixture  put  into  garden  pots,  first 
placing  a  hollow  shell,  or  something  similar,  with  the  concave  side 
under,  over  the  hole  in  the  bottom  of  each,  the  better  to  suffer  any 
extra  moisture  to  pass  off;  then  place  the  pots  in  some  dry  border 
up  to  their  rims  in  the  earth,  but  not  deeper ;  observing  to  cast 
out  the  whole  contents,  rubbing  and  mixing  it  well  together  three 
or  four  times  in  the  course  of  the  following  summer,  and  to  sow  the 
seeds,  as  before  directed,  early  in  the  second  spring  ;  or  you  may  use 
shallow  boxes,  not  deeper  than  six  or  eight  inches,  having  their 
bottoms  perforated  with  several  holes,  and  covered  with  shells,  &c. 
but  by  no  means  sink  them  in  the  earth  deeper  than  their  edges,  as 
you  have  nothing  to  fear  from  the  frost ;  but,  if  covered  in  sumr 
mer  with  moss,  or  any  thing  that  will  keep  the  earth  moderately 
moist,  the  better ;  or,  during  that  season,  you  may  plant  the  pots 
or  boxes  in  some  shady  border. 

Additional  Observations  on  Hedges. 

It-  is  very  ineligible  to  mix  two  or  more  kinds  of  plants  in  any 
hedge,  for  they  seldom  grow  equally,  and  the  more  vigorous  sort 
will  destroy  the  other  ;  nor  is  it  proper,  for  the  same  reason,  to 
plant  trees  intended  for  timber  among  either. 

Should  you  have  a  variety  of  the  preceding  kinds  in  forwardness 
for  planting,  it  would  be  proper  to  observe,  in  the  surrounding 
country,  what  soil  and  situation  each  kind  thrives  best  in,  when 
growing  in  a  wild  and  uncultivated  state,  which  will  enable  you  to 


260  THE  NURSERT.  [MARCH. 

give  to  every  one  its  favourite.  This  will  be  found  of  importance, 
and  worthy  of  being  attended  to. 

The  European  white-thorn  does  not  thrive  well  in  a  dry  gravel  or 
sand,  nor  in  a  cold  spuey  clay  ;  a  good  strong  loam  is  its  favourite. 

When  young  hedge  plants,  of  any  kind,  become  stunted  and 
hide-bound,  in  consequence  of  the  poverty  of  the  ground,  Sec.  it 
will  be  proper  to  head  them  down  to  within  two  inches  of  the 
ground,  either  in  the  months  of  October  or  March,  cutting  them 
off  clean  and  smooth  ;  observing,  however,  that  this  is  not  to  be 
done  to  one  here  and  there,  but  to  the  whole  row  out  of  the  face,  as 
far  as  they  are  in  that  condition.  The  summer  following  they  will 
produce  vigorous  and  prosperous  shoots. 

When  you  have  crab  hedges,  which  certainly  forms  very  good 
and  durable  ones,  you  may  encourage  one  vigorous  straight  shoot- 
ing plant,  at  every  fifty  feet  distance,  by  pruning  and  cleaning  up 
their  stems  till  out  of  the  reach  of  cattle,  retarding  the  ascending 
growth  of  the  others  by  annual  topping  ;  then  they  may  be  grafted 
with  any  good  kinds  of  cyder  apples,  and  in  a  few  years  will  pro- 
duce fruit  in  abundance. 

Hedges  raised  from  the  pippins  of  apples  may  be  treated  in  the 
same  way ;  but  you  may  suffer  some  to  stand  ungrafted,  for  many 
will  yield  very  good  cyder  fruit,  and  perhaps  some  may  produce 
new  and  superior  kinds.  You  will  be  able  to  judge  by  leaf,  shoot 
and  bud,  which  are  most  likely  to  produce  the  best  fruit,  and  which 
not,  and  manage  them  accordingly. 

We  have  various  other  plants  that  might  answer  for  live  hedges, 
which  due  observation  and  a  little  experience,  will  point  out ;  but 
upon  the  whole,  I  am  of  opinion,  that  the  cocksjiur  thorn  will  an~ 
swer  a  better  purpose  with  us,  for  outward,  strong,  and  durable 
fences,  than  any  other, 

Plashing  of  Hedges, 

This  is  a  very  necessary  operation,  especially  when  hedges  are 
grown  old,  or  have  been  so  neglected,  as  that  gaps  are  formed  in 
several  places ;  and  indeed  it  is  the  practice  in  countries  where  the 
greatest  attention  is  paid  to  them,  either  to  plash,  or  cut  them  all 
clean  down  to  within  six  inches  of  the  ground,  every  fourteen  or 
fifteen  years.  To  perform  this  business,  you  must  be  provided 
with  a  good  sharp  hedge-bill,  hand-saw,  and  a  pair  of  strong  leather 
gloves,  that  will  reach  up  to  your  elbows,  to  protect  your  hands  and 
arms  from  the  spines  or  thorns  :  unless  you  are  provided  with 
these,  you  will  have  a  bloody  job  of  it ;  but  being  so  fortified,  it 
\vill  be  but  a  recreative  amusement. 

Then  select  some  of  the  main  upright  stems,  at  distances  in 
proportion  to  the  general  growth  of  the  hedge,  to  serve  for  stakes, 
which  are  to  be  cut  off  with  the  saw  at  the  height  of  three  or  four 
feet  from  the  roots ;  other  stakes  are  to  be  drove  down  in  those  va- 
cancies, where  growing  ones  do  not  occur,  between  which,  as  well 
us  the  former,  to  plash  and  lay  the  general  branches ;  observing, 
f  brat  the  shorter  the  shoots  which  are  to  be  plashed,  the  closer  the 


MARCH.]  THE  NURSERY.  261 

stakes  should  be  to  one  another.  The  remainder  of  the  hedge  you 
are  then  to  thin,  leaving  only  a  sufficiency  of  the  best  and  longest 
middle-sized  shoots,  to  lay  down  and  work  in  between  those  stakes, 
cutting  the  others  off,  in  a  sloping  manner,  within  five  or  six  inches 
of  the  ground,  always  preferring  the  saw  to  the  bill,  for  this  pur- 
pose, when  it  can  be  used  conveniently.  Proceed  then  to  lay  ck>wn 
the  intended  shoots,  first  lopping  off  the  straggling  side  branches, 
and  cutting  or  gashing  occasionally  such  of  the  larger  groAVths  as 
are  not  pliant  enough  to  yield  and  keep  their  intended  stations,  ob- 
serving to  cut  them  no  deeper  than  what  is  absolutely  necessary  ; 
lay  and  weave  them  in  between  the  stakes  almost  to  a  horizontal 
position,  all  laining  one  way,  and  their  top  extremities  terminating 
as  much  as  possible  on  the  ditch  side,  if  any ;  if  not,  equally  on 
both.  When  the  hedge  is  thus  plashed,  finish  the  top  all  the  way 
with  some  of  the  longest  and  most  pliant,  but  stout  of  the  shoots 
•which  wrere  first  cut  out,  previously  divesting  them  of  all  their 
side  branches,  and  working  two  together,  lapping  round  and  over 
one  another  between  each  stake,  by  which  the  whole  plashing  will 
be  kept  down  to  its  proper  birth ;  then  with  the  hedge-bill,  or 
shears,  dress  and  lop  off  any  projecting  or  straggling  branches  at 
the  sides,  to  within  six  inches  of  the  hedge,  and  the  work  is  finish- 
ed. 

Never  lay  your  plashes  too  upright,  but  near  to  a  level ;  by  so  do- 
ing, the  sap  will  the  better  break  out  in  several  places,  for  the  pro- 
duction and  nourishment  of  a  number  of  young  side  shoots,  and  not 
run  so  much  to  the  ends,  as  it  would  if  laid  at  a  higher  elevation. 
Also,  avoid  crouding  your  plashes  too  much,  and  never  lay  in  more 
than  can  conveniently  be  wove  between  the  stakes ;  by  which  the 
young  productions  will  have  the  benefit  of  the  air,  and  grow  much 
stronger  than  otherwise. 

Old  overgrown  fences,  which  have  been  planted  in  the  hedge 
and  ditch  way,  may  be  all  cut  clean  off  with  the  saw,  within  six 
inches  of  their  roots,  and  the  fallen  earth  in  the  bottom  of  the 
ditch  dug  up  and  laid  at  the  back  of  them  ;  they  will  shoot  vigo- 
rously, and  soon  form  a  fine  fresh  hedge. 

Large  ground  hedges  will  be  improved,  by  cutting  them  down  at 
intervals  often  or  fifteen  years,  to  the  height  of  three,  four,  or  five 
feet,  and  where  vacancies  occur,  to  fill  them  with  plashing,  always 
preferring,  on  these  occasions,  the  saw  to  the  bill,  especially  when 
the  shoots  are  large. 

The  Plane,  Tulip,  and  Settle  Tree*. 

The  Plalanus  occidental}*)  or  Plane-tree,  commonly  called  the 
large  button-wood,  and  in  some  places,  though  very  improperly, 
sycamore,  is  a  valuable  tree  for  shade  and  many  other  useful  pur- 
poses. It  may  be  propagated,  either  by  cuttings,  layers,  or  seed  ; 
but  the  last  method  is  much  preferable  to  either  of  the  former,  not 
only  with  respect  to  this,  but  to  every  other  tree  bearing  seeds, 
which  may  be  cultivated  for  its  timber;  and  although  it  may  appear 
more  tedious  at  first,  it  will  in  the  end  be  found  the  most  expedl- 


262  THE  NURSERY.  [MARCH, 

tious  and  profitable.  They  may  be  sown,  either  in  November, 
when  ripe,  or  in  March,  first  breaking  the  balls  of  seed,  and  sepa- 
rating  them  effectually,  mixing  them  with  some  dry  earth  or  sand, 
and  then  sowing  them  even  on  the  surface  of  prepared  four  feet 
wide  beds,  in  the  Nursery,  and  covering  them  about  a  quarter  of 
an  inch  deep,  or  a  little  better,  if  the  earth  is  fine  and  light :  too 
dee/i  covering  is  injurious  to  all  kinds  of  seeds  ;  for  nature  never 
designed  more  than  a  sufficiency  to  promote  and  give  action  to  vege- 
tation. They  will  come  up  the  first  season,  and  the  next  or  suc- 
ceeding year  may  be  planted  into  nursery  rows. 

The  Liriodendron  Tulifiifera,  or  Tulip-tree,  commonly,  but  very 
improperly,  called  poplar,  is  best  propagated  by  seed,  which  should 
be  sown  in  November  when  ripe,  or  preserved  in  sand  or  earth  till 
March,  and  then  sown,  covering  them  half  an  inch  deep.  Those 
sown  in  November  will  all  grow  the  spring  folio  wing  ;  but,  if  kept  out 
of  the  ground,  in  a  dry  state,  till  spring,  a  great  number  of  them 
will  not  vegetate  till  the  next  year. 

The  Celtis  occidentalis,  or  Nettle-tree,  is  propagated  by  seed; 
wMch,  if  sown  in  November  when  ripe,  or  preserved  in  earth  or 
sa  .»a  till  March,  and  then  sown,  will  generally  vegetate  the  same 
season  ;  but,  if  the  berries  are  kept  dry  till  spring,  the  greater 
number  of  them  will  not  grow  till  the  next  year.  They  should  b« 
covered  about  an  inch  deep. 

Maples. 

The  Acer  argenteum  or  silvery  leaved,  and  Acer  rubrum,  or  scar- 
let maples,  perfect  their  seeds  in  May,  and  should  be  sown  imme- 
diately after  having  been  collected  ;  they  will  vegetate  directly,  and 
produce  fine  plants  the  first  season,  if  kept  free  from  weeds.  The 
seeds  of  the  former  do  not  keep  well  till  spring,  but  those  of  the 
latter  will. 

The  Sugar,  Canada,  Ash-leaved,  Pennsylvanian,  and  Mountain 
maples,  and  also  the  Acer  Pseudo-plat anus ,  or  sycamore,  may  be  sown 
either  in  autumn  or  March,  and  will  succeed  well  in  either  season  :  if 
sown  in  autumn,  cover  them  about  three  quarters  of  an  inch  deep  ; 
if  in  spring,  half  an  inch  will  be  sufficient.  When  about  a  foot  high 
in  the  seed  beds,  plant  them  early  in  spring  into  nursery  rows,  at 
proper  distances. 

Catalfia.)  Sweet-gum,  Pafiaw,  and  Persimmon. 

The  Bignonia  Catal/ia  will  grow  freely  from  seed,  which  is  to  be 
preserved  in  the  siliques  or  pods  till  March,  and  then  sown  :  or  it 
may  be  propagated  either  by  layers  or  suckers. 

The  Liquidamher  Styraciflua^  or  maple-leaved  sweet-gum,  grows 
freely  from  seed  sown  early  in  spring. 

The  Annona  triloba,  or  common  papaw,  is  a  hardy  plant,  and  may 
be  propagated  by  sowing  the  seeds  about  an  inch  deep,  either  in  Oc- 
tober, November^  or  March. 


MARCH.]  THE  NURSERY.  263 

The  fiiosfiyros  -virginiana,  persimmon,  or  American  date  plum, 
is  best  cultivated  from  seed  sown  in  autumn,  soon  after  ripe,  or  in 
March  ;  if  kept  up  till  spring,  some  of  them  will  not  vegetate  till 
the  second  year  after  sowing. 

Chesnuts,   Walnuts,  Hickories  and  Oaksi 

About  the  middle  of  this  month,  plant  the  nuts  of  the  European 
and  American  eatable  chesnuts,  also  of  the  horse  chesnut,  and  like- 
wise of  the  different  varieties  of  walnuts  and  hickeries,  which  you 
wish  to  propagate.  All  the  above  kinds  should  be  sown  in  drills, 
first  throwing  the  nuts  into  a  tub  of  water,  and  rejecting  such  of 
them  as  swim,  covering  them  with  light  rich  mould  about  two 
inches  deep.  The  drills  may  be  three  feet  asunder,  and  the  nut8 
planted  about  six  or  eight  inches  from  one  another  in  the  rows. 

The  different  varieties  of  oak  succeed  best,  when  sown  imme- 
diately after  being  ripe  ;  but  in  that  case,  they  have  to  encounter 
the  depredations  of  mice,  squirrels.  Sec.  to  avoid  which,  they  may 
be  kept  in  earth  or  sand  till  this  time  ;  but  as  most  of  them  will  be 
sprouted,  you  are  to  take  them  carefully  up,  without  breaking 
the  radicles,  and  plant  them  in  drills  two  feet  asunder,  covering  the 
acorns  not  more  than  three  quarters,  or  at  most  an  inch  deep,  with 
light  loose  mould. 

The  whole  of  the  above  kinds  may  remain  in  these  seed  drills  for 
two  years,  keeping  them  at  all  times  very  free  from  weeds  ;  and  as 
they  are  generally,  but  more  particularly  the  walnut  kinds,  subject 
to  push  down  long  tap-roots,  and  not  to  form  many  lateral  ones,  it 
will  be  proper,  nay  it  will  be  necessary,  in  order  to  insure  success 
in  transplanting,  when  they  have  had  one  or  two  year's  growth,  to 
open,  in  the  spring,  a  small  trench  close  to  each  row,  and  then, 
with  a  very  sharfi  spade,  to  cut  the  descending  roots  about  six  or 
eight  inches  under  ground,  casting  back  the  earth  when  done.  This 
will  cause  them  to  throw  out  a  number  of  laterals,  and  the  spring 
following  you  can  transplant  them  with  safety  into  nursery  rows,  at 
greater  distances,  to  remain  till  wanted  to  plant  out,  where  finally  in- 
tended. 

Robinia^  or  Locust  Tree. 

The  Robinia  Pseudo-dcaria,  or  common  locust-tree,  is  said  to  be 
superior  to  any  other  kind  of  wood,  for  ship  tunnels,  mill  cogs,  and 
fence  posts,  as  well  as  for  various  other  purposes.  Its  culture  is 
very  easy,  as  it  may  be  propagated  in  great  abundance,  by  collecting 
the  seeds  in  autumn  when  ripe,  preserving  them  dry  till  March, 
then  sowing  them  in  a  bed  of  good  sandy  loam,  which  is  their  fa- 
vourite soil,  and  covering  them  half  an  inch  deep.  They  will  come 
up  in  the  course  of  the  following  month  numerously,  for  no  seeds 
grow  more  freely,  notwithstanding  what  some  unexperienced  per- 
sons assert  to  the  contrary.  They  require  no  preparation  what-^ 
ever  ;  sow  them  as  above  directed,  and  a  good  crop  is  certain. 
When  a  year  old,  transplant  them  out  of  the  seed-bed  into  nursery 


264  "THE  NURSERY*  [MARCH. 

rows,  four  feet  distant,  and  plant  from  plant  one  foot  in  the  row* 
Having  two  or  three  year's  growth  in  these  rows,  they  may  be 
planted  successfully  in  any  warm  and  tolerably  rich  sandy  ground >. 
They  may  also  be  propagated  by  suckers,  which  they  throw  up 
abundantly  ;  especially,  if  some  of  their  wide  extending  roots  be 
cut  through  with  an  axe,  &c. 

The  Robirda  glutlnosa,  is  a  charming  plant ;  it  produces  in  May 
numerous  bunches  of  delightful  flowers,  grows  to  a  good  size,  and 
is  a  great  ornament  in  pleasure  grounds.  It  may  be  propagated  by 
seeds  in  like  manner,  or  by  grafting  it  on  the  former. 

The  Robinia  hi»fiida,  or  Rose  Acacia,  is  a  most  beautiful  flower* 
ing  shrub,  of  humble  growth,  and  may  be  propagated  by  suckers, 
which  it  produces  in  great  numbers,  or  by  grafting  it  on  either  of 
the  above  species.  -*• 

The  Ash,  Lime,  and  Sour-Gum. 

The  various  kinds  of  Fraxinus  or  ash,  are  propagated  by  seeds, 
which  are  to  be  prepared  in  the  same  manner  as  directed  for  haws* 
in  page  144,  8cc.  for  they  do  not  vegetate  till  the  second  spring  after 
the  seeds  are  ripe.  All  the  kinds  take  freely  by  grafting  on  one 
another. 

The  Tilia  americana,  or  American  lime  or  Linden  tree,  together 
with  every  other  species  of  the  same  genus,  is  easily  propagated  by 
layers,  or  by  sowing  the  seeds  in  October  or  November,  or  in  March, 
if  preserved  in  dry  sand  till  that  time.  Sow  the  seeds  on  an  even 
surface,  clap  them  in,  with  the  back  of  a  spade,  and  cover  them  a 
little  better  than  half  an  inch  deep. 

The  JVyssa  integrifolia,  or  Upland  Tupelo-tree,  or  Sour-Gum,  is 
propagated  by  seed,  suckers,  layers  or  cuttings ;  if  by  seed, 
sow  them  immediately  when  ripe,  covering  them  an  inch  deep  ; 
some  of  them  will  come  up  the  spring  following,  but  many  not  till 
the  second  year.  The  better  way  would  be,  to  prepare  them  as  di- 
rected for  haws,  and  in  the  ensuing  March  examine  them  }  if  you 
then  find  many  showing  symptoms  of  vegetation,  sow  them  ;  if  not, 
let  them  remain  till  that  time  twelvemonths. 

Deciduous  Cyjiress,   White  Cedar,  and  Arbor-Vita. 

The  Cupressus  disticha,  bald  or  deciduous  cypress,  grows  to  an. 
enormous  large  size,  the  foliage  of  which  is  uncommonly  beautiful 
during  the  summer  months.  It  is  propagated  by  sowing  the  seed  in 
March,  in  beds  of  good  mellow  earth,  covering  them  half  an  inch 
deep ;  they  must  be  kept  very  free  from  weeds,  and  when  two  years 
old,  transplant  them  from'  the  seed-beds  into  nursery  rows. 

The  Cujiressus  Thy  aides,  or  White  Cedar,  is  propagated  by  sow- 
ing the  seeds,  which  are  very  thin  and  flat,  when  taken  out  of  the 
cones,  in  boxes  of  light  earth,  taken  from  swampy  ground,  and 
covered  about  the  eighth  of  an  inch,  or  a  little  better,  with  loose 
rich  mould  sifted  evenly  over  them  ;  they  must  have  frequent 
sprinklings  of  water,  and  when  up,  and  that  the  heat  increases,  the 


MARCH.*!  THE  NURSERY.  265 

boxes  must  be  removed  into  the  shade.  You  must  keep  them  very 
free  from  weeds,  as  many  of  the  seeds,  will  not  grow  till  the  second 
year.  When  'they  are  two  years  old  transplant  them  into  nursery 
rows  in  moist  light  swampy  ground. 

The  Thuya  occidcntalis,  or  American  Arbor- Vitze,  is  propagated 
by  layers  and  cuttings,  or  by  sowing  the  seed  as  directed  for  the 
white  cedar,  with  this  difference,  that  it  will  not  be  necessary  to 
procure  swampy  earth  for  it,  as  it  thrives  best  in  upland. 

The  Thuya  oriental™,  or  Chinese  Arbor-Vitx,  may  be  propagated 
in  like  manner,  as  the  occidentalis. 

All  the  above  kinds,  if  raised  by  seeds,  will  require  some  protec- 
tion during  the  two  first  years,  from  very  rigorous  frosts. 

Pines,  and  Firs. 

The  Prnes,  and  Firs,  though  ranked  under  the  same  genus, 
(Pinus),  may  be  easily  distinguished,  from  one  another  ;  as  the 
leaves  of  the  former,  come  out  by  two,  three,  or  more,  from  the 
same  sheath ;  and  those  of  the  latter,  singly.  In  the  cedar  of 
Lebanon,  and  Larch,  they  arise  in  bunches  from  the  same  bud, 
spreading  out  every  way. 

It  is  also  to  be  remarked,  that  all  the  Pines  have  a  tendency  to 
drive  down  tap-roots,  and  therefore,  are  more  impatient  of  trans- 
planting than  the  Firs,  whose  roots,  generally  take  a  lateral  direc- 
tion. The  Larch,  is  the  only  deciduous  plant  of  the  whole  family. 
As  all  these  kinds  are  not  only  very  useful,  but  extremely  orna- 
mental, and  as  none  of  them,  can  be  transplanted  from  the  woods 
with  good  success,  I  shall  be  the  more  minute  in  giving  the  true 
methods  of  raising  them ;  so  as  to  insure  thereby,  the  growth  and 
prosperity  of  the  plants. 

The  Pinus  Cedrus,  or  Cedar  of  Lebanon,  is  rather  too  tender  for 
those  parts  of  the  Union,  where  the  winter  frosts  are  very  rigorous  ; 
but  will  succeed  tolerably  well,  in  warm  exposures  in  the  middle 
states,  if  protected  from  its  violence  for  a  few  years,  and  be  gradu- 
ally innured  thereto.  The  seeds  when  procured,  are  always  in  the 
cones,  and  are  extremely  difficult  to  be  got  out,;  the  method  is ; 
bore  the  cone  through  with  a  small  gimlet  direct  in  the  center^ 
entering  it  at  the  but-end  and  working  out  at  top  ;  then  drive  in  a 
round  iron  or  hard  wooden  pin  and  split  the  cone,  after  which,  raise 
the  scales  one  after  another  with  a  knife,  and  carefully  pick  out 
the  seeds  which  are  very  tender. 

Having  your  seeds  ready,  sow  them  in  a  box  of  good  fresh  earth, 
covering  them  near  half  an  inch  deep  ;  in  the  middle  states,  the 
first  week  in  April,  will  be  the  best  time  to  do  this ;  but  early  in 
March  will  be  preferable,  if  you  have  a  green-house  or  hot-beds,  to 
place  the  box  therein ;  give  them  a  little  sprinkling  of  water  fre- 
quently, just  what  will  be  sufficient  to  keep  the  earth  moist,  for 
much,  would  rot  or  burst  the  seeds.  When  up,  do  not  expose  them 
too  much  to  the  sun,  at  any  time  during  the  season  nor  keep  them 
in  too  confined  a  place ;  and  on  the  approach  of  winter  remove 
them  into  the  green-house,  or  place  them  under  the  protection  of 

i\i  m 


266  THE  NURSERY.  [MARCK, 

glasses,  and  so  treat  them  for  two  years,  without  removing  them 
out  of  the  seed-box.  Then,  early  in  April,  transplant  them  care- 
fully into  separate  pots,  treating  them  all  this  time,  and  for  two  or 
three  years  more,  as  you  do  green-house  plants ;  after  which  $  turn 
some  of  them  with  the  earth  out  of  the  pots,  and  plant  them  in  dry 
warm  exposures. 

The  Pinus  Pinea,  or  Italian  Stone  Pine,  grows  to  a  considerable 
height,  and  is  cultivated  chiefly  for  its  nuts  and  the  beauty  of  its  fo- 
liage. In  Italy  and  the  southern  parts  of  Europe,  the  kernels  are 
frequently  served  up  in  deserts  during  the  winter  season,  and  are  as- 
sweet  as  Almonds,  but  have  a  slight  flavour  of  turpentine.  The 
cones  are  generally  four  or  five  inches  long,  and  when  for  some 
time,  exposed  to  the  sun,  they  open  and  drop  out  the  nuts  ;  which, 
should  be  sown  towards  the  latter  end  of  March,  in  drills,  and  cover- 
ed about  half  or  three  quarters  of  an  inch  deep  ;  when  they  have 
had  one,  or  two  years  growth,  in  these  rows,  cut  their  tap-roots  as 
directed  for  walnuts  in  page  263,  and  the  next  season,  you  may 
transplant  them,  about  the  first  week  in  April,  either  into  nursery- 
rows,  at  greater  distances,  or,  where  they  are  to  remain. 

The  Pinus  Cimbra-,  or  Siberian  Stone  Pine.  There  is  a  variety 
of  this,  that  grow  in  Switzerland,  and  higher  up  the  Alps  than  any 
other  Pine,  and  is  found  on  elevations  where  the  Larch  will  not 
grow.  The  stones  are  shorter  than  those  of  the  Italian  Pine,  and 
full  as  thick.  The  wood  is  short,  having  scarcely  any  grain,  and 
very  fit  for  the  carver.  The  peasants  of  the  Tyrol,  where  this  tree 
abounds,  make  various  sorts  of  carved  works  with  the  wood,  which 
they  dispose  of  in  Switzerland,  among  the  common  people,  who 
are  fond  of  the  resinous  smell  which  it  exhales.  Both  the  varieties 
may  be  cultivated  in  the  same  manner,  as  directed  for  the  Italian 
Stone  Pine. 

All  the  other  species  and  varieties,  of  Pines  and  Firs,  for  which 
see  the  general  Catalogues  annexed  to  this  work,  may  be  success- 
fully raised  in  the  following  manner. 

Being  provided  with  good  fresh  seeds,  for  on  this  every  thing 
depends  ;  prepare  for  their  reception,  as  early  in  the  sjiring  as  your 
ground  will  work  free  and  light,  and  pulverize  finely  in  the  working, 
beds  three' or  four  feet  wide,  of  rich,  loamy  ground,  by  no  means 
subject  to  burn  or  become  parched  with  the  summer  heats  ;  then 
sow  the  seeds  on  the  surface  so  thick,  as  that  you  may  expect,  after 
all  reasonable  allowances  for  defective  seeds,  &c.  at  least^  a  plant  on 
every  inch  square  of  the  ground,  or  at  the  rate  of  a  pound  of  good 
seed  to  a  bed  three  feet  and  a  half  wide  and  sixty  long.  The  sowing 
of  them  so  thick,  is  indispensible,  for  unless  they  completely  cover 
the  surface  they  will,  if  not  carefully  shaded,  be  destroyed  in  their 
infant  state,  by  the  summer  heat ;  early  sowing  is  also  necessary, 
for  they  have  nothing  to  apprehend  from  subsequent  frosts,  that 
their  roots  may  be  established  before  the  heat  overtakes  them. 
After  the  seeds  are  sown,  sift  over  the  smaller  sized  kinds,  about  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  of  fine,  rich,  light  mould,  and  over  the  larger, 
nearly  half  an  inch;  then  place  over  the  beds,  nets  made  for  that 
purpose,  or  any  old  small  mashed  fishingnets,  to  keep  off  thebirds> 


MARGE.]  THE  NURSERY.  267 

for  all  the  kinds,  when  lightly  covered,  which  is  inclispensible  to 
their  growth,  generally  carry  up  the  seeds  on  their  tops;  and  if 
attacked  by  birds,  which  are  extremely  fond  of  them,  the  far 
greater  number  will  be  destroyed. 

The  beds  must  he  kept,  completely  free  from  weeds  cf  any 
kind,  from  the  moment  the  seeds  are  sown,  during  the  continuance 
of  the  plants  therein  ;  and  if  you  perceive  their  leaves  turn  foxy  in 
summer,  by  heat  or  drought,  it  will  be  necessary  to  give  them  occa- 
sional shade  and  water.  In  the  month  of  June  following,  sift  some 
fine,  light,  rich  earth,  over  the  beds,  so  as  to  just  come  up  to  the 
foliage  without  covering  it ;  which,  will  protect  their  yet  tender 
stems,  prevent  their  being  scalded  by  extraordinary  heat,  which 
often  melts  them  away,  so  as  to  fall  flat,  whilst  the  foliage  appears 
fresh  ;  and  besides,  it  will  help  to  retain  the  moisture  about  their 
Toots  and  fibers. 

The  spring  following,  early  in  April,  or  as  soon  as  you  perceive 
an  inclination  in  the  buds  to  push,  pull  up  the  largest  grown  plants, 
of  such  kinds  as  have  arrived  at  the  height  of  three  inches  or  up- 
wards, but  not  otherwise,  and  plant  them  in  drills  made  with  a  hoe 
or  spade  for  their  reception,  eighteen  inches  or  two  feet  asunder, 
and  eight  inches  plant  from  plant  in  the  rows  ;  just  so  deep,  as  that 
the  earth  may  come  up  to  their  foliage  ;  close  it  well  about  the  roots, 
and  water  them  occasionally  till  sufficiently  taken  with  the  earth 
and  growing  freely,  and  if  repeated  occasionally  during  the  summer 
and  early  autumn,  the  better ;  always  giving  it  about  the  setting  or 
going  down  of  the  sun.  The  spring  following,  that  is,  when  they 
have  two  years  growth  in  the  seed-beds,  take  them  all  up  out  of 
the  face,  with  a  spade,  without  injuring  the  roots  or  fibers,  and 
plant  them  as  above,  without  attempting  to  trim  them,  but  laying 
them  in  a  spreading  and  horizontal  manner  in  the  drills.  If  the 
ground  is  good 'and  the  season  proves  favourable,  a  great  number 
of  the  Larch,  in  particular,  will  have  grown  to  a  sufficient  size,  for 
transplanting  into  nursery-rows,  by  the  ensuing  spring. 

When  the  plants  have  stood  two  or  three  years  in  those  rpws, 
they  maybe  planted  in  others  at  greater  distances,  or  finally  where 
they  are  intended  to  remain  ;  observing  however,  that  the  fourth  or 
fifth  year  of  their  growth  are  the  most  successful  periods  for  a  final 
transplanting  ;  which  ought  always  to  be  done,  in  the  middle  states, 
between  the  first  and  fifteenth  of  April,  earlier  in  the  southern,  and 
not  much  later  in  the  eastern  states, 

Alihxa  Frutex.    Laburnum^  qnd  Snowy  Medlar. 

The  Hibiscus  syriacus,  or  Althsea  Frutex,  is  propagated  by  sow- 
ing the  seeds  in  March,  which  grow  very  freely  ;  all  the  varieties  cf 
it,  take  well  by  grafting  or  budding,  on  one  another. 

The  Cylissus  Laburnum,  or  common  Laburnum,  grows  freely 
by  sowing  the  seed  in  spring,  and  covering  it  as  well  as  the  former, 
about  half  an  inch  deep. 

The  Mesfiilia  canadcnsis,  or  Snowy  Medlar,  is  a  beautiful  and 
early  flowering  shrub,  rises  to  a  good  height,  and  is  a  great  ornament 


268  THE  NURSERY.  [MARCH. 

to  pleasure  grounds.  It  is  propagated  abundantly  by  seeds,  which 
should  be  preserved  in  sand  from  the  time  of  their  being  ripe  till 
March,  and  then  sown  and  covered  about  half  an  inch  deep.  If  kept 
in  a  dry  state  till  spring,  some  will  vegetate  the  first  season  and 
some  not  till  the  second.  It  will  take  by  grafting  or  budding  it,  on. 
any  kind  of  medlar,  or  on  the  white  thorn,  pear,  or  quince. 

The  Juda.8)  Snowdroft,  and  Fringe  Trees. 

The  Cercis  canadensis,  or  American  Judas  tree,  is  one  of  our 
most  beautiful  early  flowering  and  ornamental  plants  ;  and  may  be 
propagated,  by  sowing  its  seeds  in  March,  as  directed  for  the  com- 
mon locust  tree. 

The  Halesia  tetrafifera,  or  snowdrop  tree,  is  exceeded  by  very 
few  shrubs,  for  the  beauty  of  its  numerous  white  pendant  flowers. 
It  may  be  propagated  by  suckers  or  layers,  or  by  sowing  the  seeds 
in  November  when  ripe,  or  in  March,  and  covering  them  near  an 
inch  deep,  with  light  rich  mould. 

The  Chionanthus  virginica,  or  Fringe  tree,  is  a  very  ornamental 
shrub,  and  may  be  cultivated  by  layers,  suckers,  or  seed.  Sow 
the  seeds  when  ripe  in  autumn,  covering  them  an  inch  deep  with 
very  fine  light  mould,  or  preserve  them  in  earth  or  sand  till  March, 
and  then  sow  them  as  above ;  many  will  not  rise  till  the  second 
spring,  so  that  it  will  be  necessary  to  keep  the  ground  very  free 
from  weeds  all  the  time. 

Magnolia's. 

The  seeds  of  the  different  kinds  of  Magnolia,  should  be  sown 
immediately  after  being  ripe,  or  be  preserved  in  damp  sand  or  earth 
till  March  ;  for  if  kept  dry  till  that  time,  very  few,  if  any,  will  vege- 
tate till  the  year  following  ;  and  indeed  many  not  until  the  second 
season,  even  if  sown  when  ripe.  They  may  also  be  propagated,  by 
layers  and  suckers,  and  by  grafting  and  budding  upon  one  another. 

Rhadodendon'S)  Kalmicfs  Azalia's  and  Andromeda's. 

Each  and  every  species  and  variety,  of  the  above  beautiful  fami- 
lies of  plants,  for  an  account  of  which  see  the  catalogue  annexed 
to  this  work,  may  be  propagated  either  by  seeds,  layers  or  suckers. 
The  finest  plants  are  always  raised  from  seed,  and  although  the 
process  may  be  thought  tedious,  it  is  worth  attending  to  ;  the  more 
especially,  as  they  do  not  always  succeed  well  when  taken  from  the 
woods,  and  that  thousands  may  be  raised  in  this  way,  which  may  be 
successfully  removed,  to  any  place  where  wanted. 

The  capsules  should  be  collected  when  the  seeds  are  perfectly 
ripe,  and  if  you  intendto  sow  them  immediately,  which  is  certainly 
the  better  way,  expose  the  capsules  a  few  days  to  dry,  but  not  to  a 
powerful  sun  ;  they  will  then  open,  and  the  seeds  will  easily  shake 
out,  but  if  you  do  not  intend  sowing  them  till  February  or  March, 
preserve  them  in  the  capsules  till  that  time.  To  have  a  double 


HARCH.]  THE  NURSERY. 

chance,  sow  some  on  shady  borders  of  light,  dry,  loamy  earth,  and 
also  in  boxes,  making  the  ground  very  fine  and  even  on  the  surface, 
then  sow  the  seeds  thickly  thereon,  and  cover  them  not  more  than 
the  eighth  of  an  inch  deep,  or  rather,  so  as  barely  to  hide  them. 
Immediately  cover  the  beds  or  boxes  with  moss,  in  order  to  shade 
the  surface  and  vegetating  seed,  from  the  influence  of  the  sun,  or 
parching  air  ;  for  when  the  small  descending  radicles  are  protruded, 
if  the  earth  gets  dry  below  them,  all  will  be  destroyed  ;  and  the 
seeds  being  so  very  minute,  if  covered  deep,  can  never  come  up : 
therefore,  it  will  be  necessary  to  give  them  shade  and  very  frequent- 
ly light  sprinklings  of  water ;  the  moss  will  prevent   its  washing 
the  earth  off  the  seeds,  and  will  gently  communicate  the  moisture 
to  the  surface  thereof.     When  the  plants  begin  to  appear,  thin  the 
moss,  and  expose  them  but  by  slow  degrees  as  they  collect  strength. 
If  the  boxes  be  placed  in  a  green-house,  or  under  the  protection  of 
garden  frames  and  glasses,  from  the  time  of  sowing  the  seeds  till 
the  middle  of  May,  it  will  be  a  great  advantage  ;  observing,  that 
the  plants  when  up,  must  be  carefully  protected  from  the  midday 
sun,  whilst  in  an  infant  state.     Towards  the  middle  of  May  remove 
the  boxes  to  some  comforting  shade,  to  remain  there,  till  the  latter 
end  of  October,  then  place  them  in  a  warm  exposure  till  the  approach 
of  severe  frost,  when  they  may  be  put  into  a  garden  frame,  and 
slightly  protected  during  winter.     Suffer  the  plants  to  remain  in 
the  seed  boxes  or  beds  till  they  have  two  years  growth,  being  care- 
ful to  give  them  shade  and  water  in  summer,  and  some  slight  pro- 
tection in  winter,  and  in  the  beginning  of  April,  plant  them  out  into 
Nursery  rows  as  directed  for  firs  and  pines,  in  page  267,  in  a  shady 
situation  and  a  loamy  soil;  covering  the  ground  about  their  roots 
•with  moss,  to  keep  it  moist  till  the  plants  are  established;  observing, 
to  give  them  occasional  watering  during  the  first  summer  and  au- 
tumn after  being  thus  planted  out. 

.Vote. ...All  other  minute  seeded  shrubby  plants,  such  as  erica's, 
Sec.  when  propagated  by  seed,  should  be  treated  in  the  above  man- 
ner ;  with  this  difference,  that  they  must  have  protection  and  heat 
in  winter,  in  proportion  to  their  necessities,  and  soil  adapted  to  their 
respective  natures.  Such  may  also  be  raised  under  bell-glasses, 
without  the  assistance  of  moss,  as  these  confine  the  evaporations 
from  the  earth,  thereby  preserving  a  moist  atmosphere  around  the 
plants,  which  prevents  a  greater  exhalation  of  sap  from  the  tender 
leaves,  than  the  small  radicles  are  yet  able  to  extract  and  supply  $ 
which  is  frequently  the  cause  of  the  sudden  death  and  disappear*- 
ance  of  various  other  crops,  in  warm  climates. 

Calycanthus,  Franklinia,  and  Gcrdonia's. 

The  Calycanthus  jloridus,  or  Carolina  All-spice,  commonly- 
called  the  sweet-scented  shrub,  is  deserving  of  a  place  in  every 
pleasure-garden,  on  account  of  the  delightful  odour  of  its  flowers. 
It  is  easily  propagated  by  layers  or  suckers  ;  the  most  eligible  time 
of  laying  it,  is  in  autumn,  and  by  the  spring  following  twelve 
months*  they  may  be  taken  off,  and  planted  with  good  success. 


270  THE  NURSERY.  [MARCH. 

The  Franklinia  alatamaha,  of  Bartram,  is  a  most  charming 
plant,  and  very  deservedly  worthy  of  cultivation  :  it  may  be  propa- 
gated in  the  same  manner  as  the  Calicanthus  ;  as  may  also,  all  the 
family  of  Gordonia's,  which  are  very  ornamental  shrubs. 

Rhus  or  Sumach. 

The  various  kinds  of  Rhus  or  Sumach,  may  be  propagated  by- 
suckers,  layers,  or  seeds.  The  seeds,  if  preserved  in  sand,  and 
sown  early  in  March,  will  rise  freely  the  same  season,  and,  when 
one  or  two  years  old,  may  be  transplanted  into  nursery-rows,  and 
having  had  there  two  years  growth,  may  be  planted  where  intended 
to  remain. 

The  Cork-Tree. 

The  Quercus  Suber,  or  Cork-tree,  may  be  cultivated  with  good 
success  in  the  southern  states,  and  consequently  deserves  to  be  no- 
ticed among  other  articles  of  great  national  importance.  It  is  a  na- 
tive of  the  south  of  Europe,  and  the  northern  parts  of  Africa.  At 
present  there  are  considerable  woods  of  them,  between  Rome  and 
Naples,  between  Pisa  and  Leghorn,  and  also  in  Spain,  Portugal,  and 
the  south  of  France. 

The  uses  of  the  cork  are  well  known  amongst  us,  by  sea  and  land, 
for  its  resisting  both  water  and  air :  the  fishermen  who  use  nets, 
and  all  who  deal  in  liquors,  cannot  do  well  without  it.  Some  per- 
sons prefer  it  to  leather  for  the  soles  of  their  shoes,  being  light, 
dry,  and  resisting  moisture  ;  whence  the  Germans  name  it  Pan- 
tojfel-holts,  or  Slipper-wood  ;  it  was  first  applied  to  that  purpose  by 
the  Grecian  ladies,  whence  they  were  called  light-footed.  The  poor 
people  in  Spain,  and  othtr  parts  of  the  south  of  Europe,  lay  planks 
of  it  by  their  bed-side  to  tread  on  ;  as  great  persons  use  Turkey 
and  Persian  carpets  ;  they  also  employ  it  for  bee-hives.  For  this 
last  purpose,  they  roll  the  bark  into  a  cylinder,  or  into  a  conical 
form,  and  it  answers  the  end  extremely  well.  It  is  also  used  for 
making  cork-jackets,  which  have  been  found  eminently  useful  for 
mariners,  passengers  at  sea,  and  for  all  those  who  resort  to  bathing 
places,  for  the  benefit  of  their  health  ;  as  such  will  enable  the  most 
timorous,  to  s v/im  with  perfect  safety. 

Of  the  cork-tree,  there  are  two  or  three  varieties  ;  one  with 
broad  leaves,  a  second  with  narrow  leaves,  both  evergreen,  and  one 
or  two  which  cast  their  leaves  in  autumn  ;  but  the  broad-leaved 
evergreen  kind,  is  the  most  common,  and  said  to  produce  the  best 
cork.  The  leaves  of  this  are  entire,  about  two  inches  long,  and  an 
inch  and  a  quarter  broad,  with  a  little  down  on  their  under  sides, 
having  very  short  foot-stalks  :  they  continue  green  through  the 
winter,  and  generally  fall  off  just  before  the  new  leaves  come  out; 
so  that  the  trees  arc  often  bare,  for  a  short  time.  The  acorns  are 
very  like  those  of  our  common  white  oak. 

The  exterior  bark  is  the  cork,  which  is  taken  from  the  tree  every 
eight  or  ten  years  ;  but  there  is  besides  an  interior  bark,  which 
nourishes  thsm,  so  that  the  stripping  off  the  outer  coat  is  so  far 


THE  NURSERY,  271 

from  injuring  the  trees,  that  it  is  of  real  service  ;  for  when  it  is  not 
taken  off,  they  seldom  last  longer  than  fifty  or  sixty  years  in 
health  ;  whereas  trees  which  are  barked  every  eight  or  ten  years, 
will  live  150,  or  more.  The  bark  of  a  young  tree  is  porous  and 
good  for  little ;  however,  it  is  useful  to  take  it  off  when  the  trees 
are  twelve  or  fifteen  years  old  ;  for  without  this,  it  will  never  be 
good.  After  eight  or  ten  years,  the  bark  will  be  fit  to  take  off 
again  ;  but  the  second  peeling  is  of  little  use.  At  the  third  peel- 
ing, it  will  be  in  perfection,  and  continue  so  for  upwards  of  150 
years  ;  for  the  best  cork  is  taken  from  old  trees.  The  time  for 
stripping  is  in  July,  or  early  in  August,  or  when  the  second  sap 
flows  plentifully  :  the  operation  is  performed  by  slitting  it  down  on 
one  side,  raising  the  edges,  and  then  it  will  peel  off  readily. 

Having  procured  the  acorns  in  good  condition,  they  are  to  be 
treated  in  every  respect  as  directed  for  other  kinds  of  oak,  in  page 
263  ;  but  if  they  are  planted  at  once  where  intended  to  remain 
for  full  growth,  it  will  be  much  the  best  way  ;  in  which  case,  par- 
ticular care  must  be  taken  to  keep  them  free  from  weeds  during 
their  infant  state,  and  to  protect  them  from  the  annoyance  of  cattle, 
till  grown  out  of  their  reach.  The  sooner  the  acorns  are  planted 
after  having  been  procured,  the  better,  for  when  long  kept  in  a  dry 
state,  they  loose  their  vegetating  power,  like  every  other  kind  of 
oak. 

Curse  them  !  exclaims  the  peevish  planter,  I  shall  never  live  to 
cork  a  bottle  with  them.  Have  patience,  good  sir,  you  have  no  ob- 
jection to  throw  by  a  few  dollars,  in  an  iron  chest,  for  posterity, 
never  to  come  in  contact  with  the  light  of  the  sun,  during  your  ex- 
istence ;  and  which  will  always  be  depriciating  in  value,  as  the 
circulation  of  paper  currency  increases,  and  from  several  other  cir- 
cumstances ;  a  few  of  which,  if  laid  out  on^  planting  cork-trees, 
would  be  rapidly  accumulating  wealth  for  your  children,  and  ren- 
dering a  real  service  to  your  country  :  besides,  every  day  you  walked 
out,  you  would  have  the  pleasure  of  beholding  your  little  family  of 
trees,  prospering  in  health  and  beauty,  humbling  their  boughs  be- 
fore you,  and  in  their  silent  language  returning  you  grateful  thanks 
for  your  fostering  care,  and  promising  to  reward  your  offspring  for 
the  friendly  protection  which  you  afforded  them  in  their  minor 
days. 

Tanner9 8    Sumack. 

The  Rhus  Coriaria,  or  elm  leaved  Sumack,  is  a  plant  which  should 
be  introduced  and  cultivated,  particularly  in  the  southern  states, 
where  it  will  prosper  in  great  perfection.  It  grows  naturally  in 
Italy,  Spain,  the  south  of  France,  the  Levant,  about  Aleppo,  Rama, 
and  near  Algiers,  in  Africa.  The  branches  are  used  instead  of  oak 
bark,  for  tanning  leather  ;  but  the  great  and  particular  necessity  of 
its  introduction  into  the  United  States  is,  that  without  it  our  tanners, 
which  are  both  numerous  and  industrious,  cannot  manufacture  what 
is  called  Turkey  or  Morocco  leather,  in  good  perfection  :  for  it  is 
with  this  plant  exclusively,  that  that  valuable  article  is  tanned  in  the 


272  THE  NURSERY. 

eastern  world ;  and  a  substitute  for  it,  has  not  yet  been  discovered 
in  America. 

It  has  a  strong  woody  stem  divided  into  many  irregular  branches* 
and  rises  to  the  height  of  eight  or  ten  feet,  or  more  ;  the  bark  is 
hairy,  and  of  an  herbaceous  brown  colour  while  young.  The  leaves 
are  composed  of  seven  or  eight  pair  of  leaflets,  terminated  by  an 
odd  one :  these  leaflets  are  about  two  inches  long,  and  half  an  inch 
wide  in  the  middle,  and  are  of  a  yellowish  green  colour.  The  flowers 
grow  in  loose  panicles  at  the  ends  of  the  branches,  each  panicle  be- 
ing composed  of  several  thick  spikes  of  flowers,  sitting  close  to  the 
footstalks  :  they  are  of  a  whitish  herbaceous  colour,  and  appear  in 
June  and  July,  and  are  followed  by  numerous  roundish  compressed 
seeds. 

It  may  easily  be  propagated  by  seed,  which,  if  sown  soon  after 
being  ripe,  or  preserved  in  sand  or  earth  till  spring,  will  grow  free- 
ly the  first  year  ;  but  if  kept  dry  till  spring,  they  do  not  generally 
Vegetate  till  the  next  season.  It  can  also  be  propagated  by  suckers^ 
which  it  produces  pretty  freely,  or  by  layers.  It  is  tolerable  hardy j 
and  will  thrive  in  warm  exposures  in  the  middle  states. 

Mulberry -Trees  and  Silk-Worms. 

The  Morus  alba,  or  white  mulberry,  is  a  native  of  China,  Co- 
chinchina  and  Japan,  and  according  to  Gmelin,  of  Persia.  It 
grows  well  in  the  United  States,  and  may  be  cultivated  to  great 
advantage  for  the  feeding  of  silk  worms,  as  well  here  as  in  France, 
Spain,  or  Italy.  In  Spain,  Mr.  Townsend  informs  us,  that  in  the 
province  of  Valentia,  they  prefer  the  white  mulberry  ;  but  in  that 
cf  Granada,  they  give  a  preference  to  the  black.  The  Persians 
generally  make  use  of  the  latter,  and  it  has  been  asserted  upon  very 
good  authority,  that  worms  fed  with  the  black  mulberry,  produce 
much  better  silk,  than  those  fed  with  the  white.  But  the  leaves  of 
the  black,  should  never  be  given  to  the  worms  after  they  have  eaten 
for  sometime  of  the  white,  lest  they  should  burst. 

Sir  George  Staunton,  in  his  embassy  to  China,  says,  that  the  trees 
he  observed  in  that  country,  did  not  appear  to  differ  from  the  com- 
mon mulberry  trees  of  Europe  ;  that  some  of  them  were  said  to  bear 
white,  and  some  red  or  black  fruit,  but  that  often  they  bore  none  ; 
and  that  the  tender  leaves  growing  on  young  shoots  of  the  black 
mulberry,  are  supposed  to  be  the  most  succulent. 

About  the  year  of  Christ  551,  two  Persian  monks,  employed  as* 
missionaries  in  some  of  the  Christian  churches  established  in  Indiaj 
penetrated  into  the  country  of  Seres,  or  China.  There  they  ob* 
served  the  labours  of  the  silk-worm,  and  became  acquainted  with 
the  art  of  working  up  its  productions  into  a  variety  of  elegant  fa- 
brics. They  explained  to  the  Greek  emperor  at  Constantinople 
these  mysteries,  hitherto  unknown,  or  very  imperfectly  understood 
in  Europe  ;  and  undertook  to  bring  to  the  capital  a  sufficient  number 
of  those  wonderful  insects.  This  they  accomplished,  by  conveying 
the  eggs  of  the  silk-worm,  in  a  hollow  cane.  They  were  hatched, 
and  afterwards  fed  with  the  leaves  of  a  wild  Mulberry-tree,  and  mul» 


THE  NURSERY.  273 

tiplied  and  worked  in  the  same  manner,  as  in  those  climates,  where 
they  first  became  the  objects  of  human  attention  and  care.  Vast 
numbers  of  these  insects  were  soon  reared  in  different  parts  of  Greece, 
particularly  in  the  Peloponnesus.  Sicily  afterwards  undertook  to 
breed  silk -worms,  with  equal  success,  and  was  imitated,  from  time 
to  time,  in  several  towns  of  Italy.  In  all  these  places,  extensive 
manufactures  were  established,  with  silk  of  domestic  production. 

From  the  reign  of  Justinian,  it  was  mostly,  in  Greece,  and  some 
of  the  adjacent  islands,  that  silk-worms  were  reared.  Soon  after 
the  conquest  of  Constantinople  by  the  Venetians,  in  the  year  1204, 
they  attempted  the  establishment  of  the  silk  manufacture  in  their 
dominions  ;  and  in  a  short  time,  the  silk  fabrics  of  Venice,  vied  with 
those  of  Greece  and  Sicily. 

About  the  beginning  of  the  fourteenth  century,  the  Florentine 
manufactures  of  silk,  became  very  considerable.  It  was  introduced 
much  later  into  France  ;  the  manufacture  of  silk,  though  considera- 
bly encouraged  by  Henry  IV.  not  having  been  fully  established 
there,  till  under  Louis  XIV.  by  Colbert. 

It  is  an  established  and  Well  known  fact,  that  both  the  white  and 
black  mulberry-trees,  grow  as  well,  in  almost  every  part  of  the 
United  States,  as  in  any  country  on  earth ;  and  also,  that  silk  has 
been  raised  and  manufactured  into  a  most  excellent  fabric,  under 
the  direction  of  that  great  and  venerable  patriot,  and  friend  of  man- 
kind, DR.  BENJAMIN  FRANKLIN.  That  so  useful  a  pursuit  should  be 
suffered  to  die  away,  in  a  country  as  well  adapted  for  it,  as  any  in 
the  universe,  is  as  extraordinary,  as  it  is  unfortunate  and  injurious  to 
the  real  interest  of  the  nation. 

Trees  which  are  designed  to  feed  silk -worms,  should  never  be 
suffered  to  grow  tall,  but  rather  kept  in  a  sort  of  hedge  :  and  instead 
of  pulling  off  the  leaves  singly,  the  young  twigs  should  be  cut  off 
-with  them  on  ;  which  is  much  sooner  done,  and  not  so  injurious  to 
the  trees.  This  is  the  more  interesting,  as  the  mulberry  makes  a 
tolerable  good  hedge,  and  can  be  used  with  advantage  for  both  pur- 
poses. 

The  raising  and  manufacture  of  silk,  as  well  as  every  other  new 
establishment,  can  only  be  brought  to  perfection,  and  consequently 
into  repute,  by  the  industry  of  some  wealthy  individuals,  or  by 
established  companies,  whose  united  efforts  will  surmount  the  diffi- 
culties, which  always  present  themselves  in  new  undertakings  ;  for 
we  every  day  see  those  that  deal  in  small  quantities,  in  any  way  of 
life,  or  in  any  commodities  whatever,  generally  unsuccessful,  whilst 
at  the  same  time,  others  possessed  of  wealth,  or  in  established  so- 
cieties, dealing  largely  m  the  same  articles,  acquire  vast  property  and 
riches  ;  merely  from  being  able  to  afford  constant  and  regular  em- 
ployment for  the  people  engaged  in  the  business,  and  having  due— 
attention  paid  to  every  department  thereof. 

The  vast  wealth  of  LYONS,  and  of  various  other  places,  gained 
from  the  labours  of  this  little  insect,  plainly  shew,  that  where  no 
accommodations  or  materials  are  wanted,  to  employ  a  multitude  of 
hands  in  a  regular  society  or  combination  of  undertakers,  the  silken 
manufacture  must  answer  j  and  ihat  people  may  grow  rich  thereby, 

N  n 


5274  THE  NURSERY. 

as  well  in  America,  as  in  any  other  country,  if  similarly  pursued,  is? 
too  self  evident,  to  bear  contradiction. 

With  a  view  and  expectation,  that  this  business  may  be  attempted 
successfully,  I  shall  contribute  my  mite,  by  giving  the  best  informa- 
tion that  I  have  been  able  to  acquire  oh  the  subject ;  not  in  the  least 
doubting  but  that  better  may  be  easily  obtained,  for  the  introduc- 
tion of  this  important  work. 

The  first  object,  is  to  raise  a  sufficient  quantity  of  mulberry- 
trees,  of  both  the  white  and  black  kinds,  which  are  very  easily  pro- 
pagated, as  directed  in  page  257.  The  cultivating  of  both  kinds  I 
think  the  more  necessary,  from  the  different  opinions  entertained 
of  their  utility  for  this  purpose,  and  the  universal  admission  of 
either  kind  answering  the  end. 

The  next  is  to  procure  the  eggs,  which  about  the  beginning  of 
May,  or  when  the  mulberry  begins  to  expand  its  leaves,  to  lay  them 
on  paper,  or  flannels  placed  on  shelves,  in  warm  exposures,  where 
they  may  have  the  heat  of  the  sun  to  hatch  them.  In  Sicily,  board- 
ed or  frame-houses  are  commonly  erected  for  this  purpose  in  the 
fields,  among  the  mulberry  trees,  with  a  number  of  shelves-  rising 
one  above  another,  and  a  large  table  in  the  middle  of  the  room,  on 
which,  when  they  are  hatched,  to  lay  over  them  the  young  twigs 
bearing  the  leaves  intended  for  their  food,  which  must  be  removed 
and  renewed  as  often  as  necessary ;  keeping  them  always  clean 
from  dead  leaves,  and  their  own  dirt.  A  man  and  boy  will  attend 
all  the  worms  that  come  from  six  ounces  of  eggs,  and  those,  one 
year  with  another,  will  spin  twenty  pounds  weight  of  silk. 

The  method  of  clearing  off  their  dirt  is  this  ;  spread  a  net  over  the 
worms,  on  which  lay  fresh  food, they  will  all  crawl  through  the  mashes 
to  feed  on  the  leaves,  when  they  may  be  be  taken  up  without  the 
least  injury,  and  their  shelves  cleaned  effectually  :  after  which  lay 
fresh  twigs  with  leaves  on  the  shelves;  over  these  lay  the  nets,  and  they 
will  return  to  their  former  places,  when  the  nets  may  be  laid  by  till 
wanted  again  for  a  similar  purpose.  In  some  countries,  the  worms 
are  suffered  to  feed  and  work  on  the  trees,  but  their  being  subject, 
under  such  circumstances,  to  the  ravages  of  birds,  unfavourable 
changes  of  weather,  &c.  they  are  generally  kept  in;  houses  or  sheds 
erected  for  that  purpose. 

In  Turkey,  the  worms  are  fed  in  long  barns,  made,  both  walls 
and  roofs,  of  reed  or  cane  \  where  they  are  fed,  and  afterwards  spia. 
their  clues  upon  these  reeds.  In  Italy  and  Spain,  they  are  kept  to 
feed  in  the  same  rooms,  wherein  the  people  live  and  do  their  other 
houshold  affairs,  feeding  them  on  shelves  and  tables  without  more 
curiosity. 

It  is  observed,  that  the  worms  are  commonly  sick  three  or  four 
times  during-  their  feeding,  generally  about  ten  days  after  they  are 
hatched,  and  at  weekly  periods  afterwards.  Their  best  treatment* 
during  these  times  is,  to  give  them  but  little  food  while  sick.  The 
whole  time  of  their  feeding,  is  about  seven  weeks  ;  and  as  they  get 
strength  and  grow  bigger,  it  need  hardly  be  said  that  you  must  give 
them  more,  and  oftener.  The  leaves  should  not  be  given  to  the 
worms,  whilst  wet  with  dew  or  rain. 


THE  NURSERY.  275' 

When  they  have  fed  their  due  time,  they  begin  to  look  clear,  and 
a  little  of  the  yellowish  cast,  and  to  prepare  for  work ;  at  every 
time,  but  at  this  more  particularly,  they  should  have  plenty  of  air. 
Then  small  branches,  divested  of  their  leaves,  are  laid  over  them, 
and  in  their  way,  upon  which  they  mount  and  attach  themselves, 
and  in  a  few  days  each  will  cover  itself  all  over  with  silk,  so  as  to  be 
seen  no  more,  till  suffered  to  work  its  way  out  for  the  business  of 
propagation. 

In  about  two  weeks  they  commonly  finish  their  balls,  and  soon 
sifter  cut  their  way  out,  and  couple  for  procreation ;  the  balls  so 
perforated  are  then  good  for  nothing  ;  but  it  is  necessary  to  suffer 
a  sufficient  number  to  come  out  in  this  way,  to  produce  a  sufficiency 
of  eggs  for  the  next  season's  brood.  The  others,  when  they  have 
done  working,  and  before  they  begin  to  cut  through,  should  be  all 
put  into  an  oven,  just  sufficiently  hot  to  kill  the  worms. 

The  method -of  winding  the  silk  off  the  balls,  is  first  to  find  their 
ends,  which  is  not  difficult,  and  then  put  about  a  dozen  or  fifteen 
of  them  into  a  bason  of  hot  water,  wherein  is  dissolved  a  little  Gum 
Tragacanth, commonly  called  Gum  Dragon;  and  thus  they  will  be 
easily  wound.  Sometimes  the  balls  are  gummy,  in  which  case 
they  should  be  thrown  into  a  hot  clean  lie  of  wood-ashes,  and  after 
that  into  scalding  pure  water,  which  will  cause  them  to  wind  freely. 

When  the  animal  is  protruded  from  the  egg,  it  is  a  small  black- 
ish worm,  very  active,  and  naturally  crawls  about  in  search  of  food  ; 
at  this  period  it  should  be  fed  with  the  youngest  and  most  tender 
leaves  ;  in  eight  or  ten  days  it  will  encrease  in  size  to  about  a  quai> 
ter  of  an  inch  in  length.  It  is  then  attacked  with  its  first  sickness, 
which  is  a  kind  of  lethargic  sleep,  for  about  two  or  three  days  con- 
tinuance ;  during  which  time  it  changes  its  skin,  preserving  the 
same  bulk.  It  undergoes  similar  sickness  and  changes  three  or 
four  times,  at  intervals  of  about  eight  days,  before  it  arrives  at  its 
full  size  ;  which,  is  from  an  inch  and  quarter  to  an  inch  and  half  in 
length  ;  and  the  intervals  between  these  changes,  and  consequently 
the'periods  of  its  arrival  at  maturity  for  work)  are  said  to  vary  in  dif- 
ferent climates,  which  is  very  probable. 

After  it  has  formed  its  cocoon,  or  ball  of  silk,  and  undergone  its 
change  in  the  heart  of  it,  it  conies  forth  a  heavy  dull  looking  moth 
with  wings,  but  these  it  seldom  uses  for  flying,  it  only  flutters  and 
crawls  slowly  about,  in  quest  of  its  mate ;  soon  after  copulation  the 
female  lays  its  eggs,  and  both  die  without  tasting  food  in  this  stage 
of  their  existence. 

When  in  the  worm  or  caterpillar  state,  they  are  of  a  blackish, 
or  a  milk  or  pearl  colour,  the  former  are  esteemed  the  best.  The 
body  is  divided  into  seven  rings,  to  each  of  which  are  joined  two 
very  short  feet.  It  has  a  small  point  like  a  thorn  exactly  over  the 
anus.  There  are  a  considerable  variety  of  breeds,  some  of  which 
possess  qualities,  much  superior  to  others.  This  is  a  particular  of 
much  importance  to  be  adverted  to,  at  the  time  of  beginning  to 
breed  ;  for  it  will  make  a  great  difference  in  the  profit  to  the  under- 
taker. The  eggs  when  obtained  should  be  kept  in  a  cool,  dry  place, 
neither  exposed  to  heat,  nor  to  excessive  frosts,  till  wanted  for 
hatching  the  ensuing  season. 


276  THE  NURSERY.  [MARCH. 

The  Morus  nigra  or  black  mulberry,  is  more  esteemed  for  its 
fruit  than  the  white,  and  when  cultivated  for  such,  layers  or  cut- 
tings from  good  fruit-bearing  trees,  ought  to  be  preferred,  to  raising 
them  by  seed  ;  for  monoecious  trees,  until  arrived  at  a  good  age, 
bear  male  flowers  chiefly  and  very  few  fruit.  The  cuttings  if  tak- 
en off  in  March,  rightly  chosen,  and  skilfully  managed,  will  do  very- 
well  ;  though,  in  general,  they  do  not  take  as  freely  in  this  way  as 
many  other  trees  ;  however,  if  placed  under  bell-glasses,  they  will 
strike  with  great  certainty :  but  where  there  is  no  such  conve- 
niency,  the  ground  about  them  should  be  covered  with  moss,  to 
prevent  its  drying  ;  and  where  this  is  carefully  done,  they  will  want 
but  little  water,  and  will  succeed  much  better  than  with  having  too 
much  wet. 

The  Morus  rubra  or  red  American  mulberry,  is  admired  by 
some,  on  account  of  the  pleasing  acidity  of  its  fruit,  and  is  said  to 
answer  the  end  of  feeding  silk  worms  very  well.  It  is  cultivated 
like  every  other  kind,  by  layers,  cuttings  and  seed. 

The  white  mulberry  prospers  best  in  a  moist  rich  loam,the  black, 
in  a  dry  sandy  soil,  and  the  red  in  a  mean  between  both  these 
kinds. 

The  Paper-Mulberry,  and  method  of  making  Paper  of  its  Bark. 

The  Morus  fiafiyrifera,  or  paper  mulberry.  This  tree  makes 
very  strong  vigorous  shoots,  but  seems  not  to  be  of  tall  growth  :  it 
drives  up  an  abundance  of  suckers  from  the  roots,  by  which  it  is 
easily  propagated.  The  leaves  are  large,  some  of  them  entire, 
others  cut  into  two,  three  or  four  lobes,  sporting  themselves  into 
various  forms,  and  scarcely  two  to  be  found  alike -on  the  same  tree, 
especially  while  young ;  they  are  of  a  dark  green,  and  rough  to 
the  touch  on  the  upper  surface,  but  pale  green  and  somewhat  hairy 
on  the  under  side,  falling  off  on  the  first  approach  of  frost  in  autumn. 
Their  fruit  is  little  larger  than  peas,  surrounded  with  long  purplish 
hairs,  when  ripe,  changing  to  a  black  purple  colour,  and  full  of 
sweet  juice. 

It  is  a  native  of  Japan,  and  the  South  Sea  Islands,  and  according 
to  Mr.  Miller,  of  China  and  South  Carolina  whence  he  received  the 
seeds,  the  inhabitants  of  Japan,  have  for  ages  been  in  the  habit  of 
making  paper  from  its  bark  :  they  cultivate  the  trees  for  this  pur- 
pose, on  the  mountains,  much  in  the  same  manner  as  we  do  osiers, 
cutting  them  all  down  for  use  every  autumn  after  the  leaves  are 
fallen. 

The  finest  and  whitest  cloth,  worn  by  the  principal  people  at  Ota- 
heite,  and  in  the  Sandwich  islands,  is  made  of  the  bark  of  this  tree  ; 
which  they  frequently  dye  red.  The  bread  fruit  tree,  makes  u 
cloth  inferior  in  whiteness  and  softness,  worn  there  chiefly  by  the 
common  people. 

Paper-making,  having  a  connection  in  this  instance,  with  objects 
of  my  attention,  and  the  probable  use  it  may  be  of  to  the  communi- 
ty, induces  me  to  give  additional  publicity  to  the  following  method 
of  manufacturing  it  from  the  bark  of  the  paper  mulberry -tree  :  tLc 


MARCH.]  THE  NURSERY.  277 

more  especially,  as  such  has  been  attempted  last  year,  and  with  good 
success,  by  the  laudable  exertions  of  Mr.  WILLIAM  YOUNG,  pro- 
prietor of  the  Brandy  wine  paper-mills,  in  the  state  of  Delaware. 
It  is  extracted  from  MARTYN'S  edition  of  Miller's  Gardener's  Dic- 
tionary, and  quoted  by  him  from  K&mfer.  I  am  not  certain  what 
kind  of  mulberry  Mr.  Young  had  used  for  that  purpose,  nor  whe- 
ther it  was  the  bark  of  the  roots  or  branches  he  manufactured,  but 
some  of  the  paper  I  had  seen  printed  on,  and  it  promised  well.  It 
is  very  probable  that  either  species  might  be  manufactured  into  pa- 
per, but  I  am  induced  to  think  that  the  paper-mulberry,  from  the 
vigorous  growth  of  its  young  shoots,  is  more  likely  to  answer  the 
end  than  any  other. 

"  The  young  shoots  being  cut  down  in  autumn  after  the  leaves 
are  fallen,  and  divided  into  rods  of  three  feet  in  length,  or  shorter, 
are  gathered  into  bundles  tc  be  boiled.  If  the  shoots  are  dry,  they 
must  be  softened  in  water  twenty-four  hours.  The  bundles  are 
bound  very  close  together,  and  placed  erect  in  a  large  copper,  pro- 
perly closed  :  the  boiling  is  continued  till  the  separation  of  the  bark 
displays  the  naked  wood.  Then  the  stalks  are  loosed  out  of  the 
bundles  and  allowed  to  cool  ;  after  which,  by  a  longitudinal  incision, 
the  bark  is  stripped  off,  and  dried,  the  wood  being  rejected.  When 
this  bark  is  to  be  purified,  it  is  put  three  or  four  hours  in  water, 
when  being  sufficiently  softened,  the  cuticle,  which  is  of  a  dark  co- 
lour, together  with  the  greenish  surface  of  the  inner  bark,  is  pared 
off.  At  the  same  time  the  stronger  bark  is  separated  from  the 
more  tender  ;  the  former  making  the  whitest  and  best  paper  ;  the 
latter  a  dark,  weak  and  inferior  kind.  If  any  bark  appears  that  is 
old,  it  is  set  aside  for  a  thicker  paper,  of  worse  quality.  Into  this 
last  class  they  throw  the  knotty  parts  of  the  bark,  and  those  which 
have  any  fault  or  blemish. 

"  The  bark  is  now  boiled  in  a  lie  that  is  clear  and  strained  ;  care 
being  taken  to  stir  the  substance  as  soon  as  it  begins  to  boil,  with  a 
strong  reed,  and  to  pour  in  of  the  lie  gradually  as  much  as  is  ne- 
cessary for  stopping  the  evaporation,  and  restoring  the  liquor  that 
is  lost. 

"  The  boiling  is  to  cease  when  the  materials  can  be  split  by  a 
slight  touch  of  the  finger,  into  fibres  and  down. 

"  Next  it  is  to  be  washed,  which  is  a  thing'of  some  moment ;  for 
if  washed  too  short  a  time,  the  paper  will  be  strong  indeed,  but  too 
rough,  and  of  an  inferior  quality  ;  if  too  lon£,  it  will  be  whiter,  bul 
of  a  tat  consistance,  and  less  fit  for  writing.  Being  sufficiently 
washed,  the  materials  are  put  upon  a  thick,  smooth,  wooden  table', 
and  stoutly  beat,  by  two  or  three  men,  with  battons  of  hard  woCd, 
into  a  pulp  ;  which  being  put  in  water,  separates  like  grains  of 
meal.  Thus  prepared,  it  is  put  into  a  narrow  vat ;  an  infusion  of 
rice,  and  a  mucous  water  of  the  infusion  of  the  root  of  Manihot  beT 
ing  added  to  it.  These  three  are  to  be  stirred,  with  a  clean  slender 
reed,  till  reduced  into  a  homogenous  liquor  of  a  clue  consistence. 
The  prepared  liquor  is  now  put  into  a  larger  vat ;  from  whence  the 
sheets  are  poured  out,  one  by  one,  and  placed  in  heaps  upon  a  table, 
covered  with  a  double  mat ;  a  small  thread  of  reed  being  placed 


278  THE  NURSERY.  [MARC*. 

between  the  sheets  at  the  edge,  and  projecting  a  little,  so  that  they 
may  be  taken  up  singly  when  wanted  j  the  heaps  are  covered  with 
a  plank  of  wood  the  size  of  the  paper,  upon  which  stones  are  put, 
at  first  of  a  light  weight,  but  afterwards  heavier,  that  all  the  wet 
may  be  pressed  out  by  degrees.  The  following  day,  the  weights 
being  removed,  each  sheet  is  taken  up  by  itself,  and  the  operation 
is  finished." 

The  preceding  is  the  process  employed  by  the  Japanese,  and 
whether  we  regard  the  expedition  or  labour,  or  the  quantity  and 
quality  of  the  product,  it  seems  to  admit  of  much  improvement. 

Instead  of  reducing  the  subject  toa/m//z,  by  battons,  in  the  man- 
ner above  described,  that  might  be  done  more  effectually  by  grind- 
ing it,  in  the  way  practised  with  rags. 

The  colour  might  be  rendered  as  elegantly  white,  as  that  of  any 
other  substance,  by  means  of  an  immersion,  first  in  oxyginated  mu- 
riatic acid,  afterwards  in  a  solution  of  alkali,  and  finally,  washing  it 
in  pure  water.  By  these  means  it  is  probable,  that  the  portions 
thrown  aside  for  paper  of  inferior  qualities,  might  be  wrought  into 
that  of  prime  excellence. 

The  decoction  of  rice  and  of  the  root  of  Manihot,  can  have  no 
possible  advantage  over  the  size,  commonly  used,  for  giving  to  the 
paper  the  necessary  firmness  and  texture. 

The  Calabrian  or  Manna  Ash. 

There  are  two  particular  species  of  ash,  from  which  that  useful 
drug  called  manna  is  collected  in  the  kingdom  of  Naples,  Sec.  and 
which,  might  be  cultivated  in  the  southern  states,  to  advantage ; 
therefore,  I  am  induced  to  give  some  account  of  them. 

1.  The  Fraxinus  Omits,  or  floAvering  ash,  which  is  the  principal 
kind  cultivated  for   manna.     The  leaflets  are  ovate-oblong,  serrate, 
petioled  ;  flowers  with  petals. 

2.  The  Fraxinus  rotundifolia,  or  round  leaved  ash,  which  also 
produces  it,  but  not  in  as  great   quantities  as  the  former.     Leaflets 
roundish,  acutish,  doubly  serrate,  subsessile  ;  flowers  with  petals. 
Both  these  kinds  may  be  raised  from  seed  as  directed  in  page  264,  or 
by  grafting  or  budding  them  on  any  other  species  of  ash.     They 
are  natives  of  Italy,  Sicily,  and  the  southern  parts  of  Europe. 

They  also  cultivate  in  Sicily,  the  Fraxinus  excelsior  or  common 
European  ash,  for  that  purpose  ;  which  induces  me  to  think,  that  if 
the  above  kinds  were  grafted  /ow,  on  any  of  our  American  species, 
it  would  not  prevent  their  yielding  as  good  rnanna,  as  if  established 
on  their  own  roots.  Doctor  Cullen  supposes  "  Manna  to  be  a  part 
of  the  sugar  so  universally  present  in  vegetables,  and  which  exudes 
on  the  surface  of  a  great  number  of  them."  The  qualities  of  these 
exudations  he  thinks  are  "  very  little,  if  any,  different."  The 
principal  trees  known  to  produce  these  mannas,  in  different  climates 
and  seasons,  are  the  larch,  orange,  walnut,  willow,  mulberry,  and 
some  different  kinds  of  oak  ;  which  latter,  are  found  growing  be- 
tween Merdin  and  Diarbecker?  and  also  in  Persia  near  Khounsar. 


MARCH.]  THE  NURSERY.  279 

In  Sicily  the  three  spices  above  mentioned,  with  the  view  of  ob- 
taining manna  from  them,  but  more  particularly  the  first,  are  plant- 
ed on  the  declivities  of  hills,  having  eastern  aspects.  After  ten 
years  growth,  the  trees  first  begin  to  yield  manna,  but  they  require 
to  be  much  older,  before  they  afford  it  in  any  considerable  quantity. 
Although  the  manna  exudes  spontaneously  from  the  trunks  and 
branches,  yet  in  order  to  obtain  it  more  copiously,  incisions  arc 
made  through  the  bark,  by  means  of  a  sharp  crooked  instrument ; 
a  slice  of  which,  is  taken  off,  about  three  inches  in  length  and  two 
in  breadth  ;  they  leave  the  wounds  open,  and  by  degrees  the  manna 
runs  out.  The  season  thought  to  be  most  favourable  for  instituting 
this  process,  is  a  little  before  the  dog-days  commence,  when  the 
weather  is  dry  and  serene.  The  incisions  are  first  made  in  the 
lower  part  of  the  trunk,  and  repeated,  at  the  distance  of  an  inch  or 
two  from  the  former  wound,  still  extending  them  upwards  as  far  as 
the  branches,  and  confining  them  to  one  side  of  the  tree  ;  the  other 
side  being  reserved  till  the  year  following,  when  it  undergoes  the 
same  treatment.  On  making  these,  a  thick  white  juice  immediate- 
ly begins  to  flow,  which  gradually  hardens  on  the  bark,  and  in  the 
course  of  eight  days,  acquires  the  consistence  and  appearance,  in 
which  the  manna  is  imported  ;  when,  it  is  collected  in  baskets,  and 
afterwards  packed  in  large  chests.  Sometimes  the  manna  flows  in 
such  abundance  from  the  incisions,  that  it  runs  upon  the  ground,  by 
which  it  becomes  mixed  with  various  impurities,  unless  prevented, 
which  is  commonly  attempted,  by  interposing  large  concave  leaves, 
stones,  chips  of  wood,  Sec.  The  business  of  collecting  it,  generally 
terminates  in  those  countries  in  September,  when  the  rainy  season 
sets  in. 

That  manna  is  got  in  quantities  on  the  leaves  of  trees,  is  an  opi- 
nion taken  from  the  doctrine  of  the  ancients,  and  received  as  in- 
contestible  without  consulting  nature  ;  for  all  those  who  are  em- 
ployed in  the  gathering  of  it,  know  of  none  that  comes  from  the 
leaves ;  therefore,  that  with  which  the  Israelites  were  so  peculiarly 
favoured,  could  only  have  been  produced  through  miraculous  means, 
and  is  consequently  out  of  the  province  of  the  naturalist.  The  best 
manna  is  what  exudes  from  the  tree  very  slowly,  and  is  collected 
clean,  this  is  always  more  dry,  transparent,  and  pure  ;  for  when 
it  flows  copiously  it  concretes  into  a  course,  brown,  unctuous  mass* 

Methods  of  propagating  Trees  and  Shrubs  by  Layers. 

There  are  few  trees  or  shrubs,  if  any,  but  may  be  increased  in 
this  way.  The  nursery  gardeners  who  want  to  propagate  large 
quantities  of  various  hardy  kinds,  of  which  they  cannot  easily  pro- 
cure seeds,  and  which  by  experience  they  do  not  find  to  grow  free- 
ly by  cuttings  ;  establish,  what  they  call,  stools,  of  the  different  kinds 
intended  to  be  propagated,  particularly  of  the  deciduous  tribe,  and 
also,  some  evergreens.  For  this  purpose,  they  plant  in  different 
quarters,  stout  healthy  plants,  at  the  distance  of  four  or  five  feet 
irom  one  another  every  way,  and  head  them  down ;  these  throw 
out  near  the  earth  a  number  of  young  shoots,  some,  of  which  may 


280  THE  NURSERY.  [MARCH. 

be  laid  in  the  autumn  or  spring  following  ;  these  stools,  as  they 
are  commonly  called,  continue  for  many  years,  always  laying  down 
the  shoots  of  the  last  season,  and  every  year  successively  they  pro- 
duce abundance  for  the  ensuing  year's  laying,  still  taking  them  off, 
cither  in  autumn  or  spring  as  they  become  well  rooted.  The  elm, 
linden,  mulberry,  and  maple,  do  extremely  well  in  this  way,  but  it 
is  seldom  practised  on  any  of  the  pine  family.  The  far  greater 
number  of  kinds  will  be  well  rooted  and  fit  to  take  off  in  one  year 
after  laying,  some  not  till  the  second,  and  others  not  until  the  third 
year  ;  but  the  latter  are  very  few. 

The  ground  in  these  quarters  should  always  be  kept  free  from 
weeds,  be  manured  occasionally,  and  dug  every  autumn  and  spring, 
being  careful  not  to  disturb  the  layers. 

After  the  layers  are  taken  up,  the  stools  must  have  all  the  wound- 
ed parts  taken  away,  and  any  old  branches  cut  off,  pretty  close  to  the 
stems  :  the  next  season  these  will  produce  new  shoots,  which  may 
be  laid  the  autumn  or  spring  following. 

The  best  season  for  laying  all  the  kinds  that  do  not  root  freely,  is 
autumn,  and  the  young  shoots  of  the  preceding  summer's  growth, 
should  be  preferred ;  these  should  be  tongued  as  hereafter  di- 
rected. The  free  rooting  kinds  may  be  laid  either  in  autumn  or 
spring,  as  convenient. 

Though  branches  may  be  laid  at  any  time,  yet  the  best  season  for 
laying  hardy  trees,  that  shed  their  leaves,  is  October  or  November  ; 
for  such  as  are  tender  early  in  March  ;  evergreens  may  either  be 
laid  at  the  latter  period  or  in  June  or  July. 

When  the  branches  or  twigs  cannot  be  bent  down  into  the  ground 
lay  them  in  boxes  or  pots,  filled  with  good  earth  and  elevated  to  the 
necessary  places  by  blocks,  tressels,  or  benches.  Too  much  of  the 
head  of  the  layers  must  not  be  left  on,  and  the  smaller,  the  less 
should  be  left  out  of  the  ground,  except  they  are  twigs  of  the  for- 
mer years  growth,  and  intended  for  timber  trees,  in  which  case 
they  should  not  be  topped. 

Many  trees  and  plants  will  not  put  out  roots  from  old  wood- 
branches  ;  yet  if  the  young  shoots  of  the  same  year  be  laid  in  July, 
they  will  often  root  very  freely  :  but  as  those  shoots  will  be  soft 
and  pithy,  they  must  not  have  too  much  wet,  which  would  cause 
them  to  rot ;  cover,  therefore,  the  surface  of  the  ground  with  mossj 
which  will  prevent  its  drying  too  fast,  and  a  little  water  will  suffice. 

In  many  kinds  of  the  young  shoots  of  the  same  year,  if  laid  in 
June  or  July,  they  will  be  well  rooted  by  the  November  or  spring 
following,  and  may  then  be  taken  off. 

When  layers  are  to  be  made  from  green-house  shrubs,  or  other 
plants  in  pots,  the  laying  should  be  generally  performed,  either  in 
their  own  pots,  or  in  others  placed  convenient  for  that  purpose. 

Sometimes  the  branches  of  trees  are  so  inflexible  as  not  to  be 
easily  brought  down  for  laying ;  in  which  case  they  must  be  half 
cut  through,  as  practised  in  plashing  hedges,  and  by  that  means 
brought  down ;  or  when  they  are  got  too  old  for  plashing,  or  that 
the  nature  of  the  wood  will  not  bear  that  operation,  they  may  be 
thrown  down  on  one  side,  by  opening  the  earth  and  loosening  or 
cutting  the  roots  on  the  opposite. 


&ARCH.J  THE  NURSERY.  281 

There  are  several  methods  of  performing  this  operation. 

1.  Having  well  dug  the  ground  and  made  it  very  light,  take  some 
of  the  most  flexible  and  free  growing  shoots,  and  lay  them  into  it, 
about  six  inches  deep,  pegging  them  down  with  hooked  sticks,  if  ne- 
cessary, leaving  the  end  of  the  layer,  a  foot  or  a  foot  and  a  half,  or 
more  if  the  twig  be  young  and  healthy,  out  of  the  ground,  with  its  head 
as  erect  as  possible  ;  keep  them  moist  during  the  summer  season, 
and  if  of  a  free  rooting  kind,  they  will  take  root  and  be  fit  to  be  taken 
off  and  removed,  in  the  autumn  or  spring  following ;   if  not,  they 
must  remain  another  season. 

2.  Tie  a  piece  of  wire  tight  round  the  bark  of  the  layer,  at  the 
place  you  intend  to  lay  in  the  ground,  and  half  an  inch  below  a  bud  ; 
twist  the  ends  of  the  wire,  so  that  they  may  not  untie,  as  the  shoot 
swells,  prick  the  parts  above  and  below  the  wire  with  an  awl  in  se- 
veral places,  and  then  lay  it  in  the  ground  as  before  directed.  This 
method  will  succeed  when  the  other  fails. 

3.  Slit  the  shoot  underneath  a  joint  or  bud,  up  the  middle,  and 
about  an  inch  long,  or  a  little  better,  according  to  the  size  and  na- 
ture of  the  layer,  forming  a  sort  of  tongue,  nearly  the  same  as  di- 
rected for  carnation  layers  ;  laying  that  part  in  the  earth  and  raising 
the  top  upright,  so  as  thereby  to  separate  the  tongue  of  the  slit  from 
the  other  part   and  keep  it  open  ;    then  apply  the  earth  as  before. 
This  is  the  most  universally  practised  and  successful  mode,  when 
any  preparation  of  the  shoot  is  necessary  to  promote  its  rooting. 

4.  Twist  the  part  of  the  branch  intended  to  be  layed  in  the  earth, 
as  you  would  a  willow  twig,  this  greatly  facilitates  the  emission  of 
fibres  ;  and  layers  of  numerous  trees  and  shrubs,  may  be  forwarded 
exceedingly  in  rooting  by  this  method. 

5.  Cut  the  bark  nearly  all  round,  a  little  below  a  joint  or  bud, 
taking  out  small  chips  thereof  in  several  places  below  the  cut,  and 
lay  that  part  in  the  earth.     Some  sorts  will  root  more  freely  by 
this,  than  any  other  mode. 

6.  Thrust  an  awl  through  the  shoot  at  a  joint  in  several  places, 
laying  that  part  in  the  earth,  and  it  will  emit  fibres  from  the  wounds. 

After  laying,  in  either  of  the  above  methods,  there  is  no  particu- 
lar culture  necessary,  except  in  the  heat  of  summer  to  give  occa- 
sional waterings,  to  keep  the  earth  moist  about  the  layers,  which 
will  greatly  promote  their  rooting  ;  and  which  if  effected  the  first 
season,  they  should  be  taken  off  in  the  autumn  or  spring  following. 

Additional  Observations  on  Planting. 

Plants  are  always  most  prosperous  when  propagated  by  seed, 
which  is  nature's  favourite  method. 

Evergreen  plants  are  best  fit  for  transplanting  from  the  seed- 
beds into  nursery  rows,  when  they  have  attained  the  height  of,  from 
four  to  six  inches,  and  deciduous  kinds,  when  from  six  to  twelve 
inches  high. 

Layers  should  not  be  suffered  to  remain  on  the  mother  plants, 
longer  than  until  sufficiently  rooted ;  which  will  be  effected  by 

oo 


282  THE  NURSERY.  [MARCH. 

some,  in  six  cr  seven  months,  if  laid  in  spring  ;  by  the  far  greater 
number  in  one  year,  and  by  others,  not  in  less  than  two  or  three. 

Tonguing,  or  twisting  the  layers,  &c.  is  necessary  for  such  kinds 
as  do  riot  sirike  freely  ;  but  not  for  those  that  do. 

All  kinds  of  seedlings,  should  be  transplanted  in  spring,  the  deci- 
duous earlier  than  the  evergreens. 

October  or  November,  is  the  best  time  for  the  Jinal  transplanting 
of  all  kinds  of  hardy  deciduous  trees,  if  the  ground  in  which  they 
are  to  be  planted  is  dry,  and  not  subject  to  become  too  wet  in  win- 
ter ;  but  early  spring  planting  does  best,  in  moist  soils. 

Evergreens  of  every  kind  succeed  best  when  planted  in  spring, 
provided  it  be  done  to  each  respective  kind,  immediately  before  its 
vegetation  commences. 

Watering  is  very  useful  when  given  in  small  quantities,  and  fre- 
quently ;  but  the  reverse,  when  in  large  quantities,  and  but  sel- 
dom. 

Every  kind  of  tree,  whether  deciduous  or  evergreen,  grows  to  a 
larger  size  when  finally  planted  out  at  the  age  of  four  years,  having 
remained  one  or  two  in  the  seed-bed,  and  two  or  three  in  the  nur- 
sery-rows,  than  at  any  other  subsequent  period. 

Walnuts,  oaks,  and  every  other  tree,  that  has  a  tendency  to  drive 
down  perpendicular  or  tap-roots,  always  grow  to  larger  timber, 
when  the  seeds  are  sown,  where  intended  to  remain,  and  never* 
transplanted. 

Propagation  of  Trees  and  Shrtibs  by  Cuttings, 

Various  trees  and  shrubs  may  be  propagated  by  cuttings,  and  this 
month,  especially  in  the  middle  states,  is  a  good  time  for  planting 
all  the  hardy  deciduous  and  evergreen  kinds,  that  grow  in  that  way  ; 
observing  to  plant  the  former  in  the  early  part  of  the  month,  and 
the  latter  towards  the  end  of  it. 

When  you  intend  to  propagate  trees  for  timber,  or  for  a  tall 
stately  growth,  be  very  particular  never  to  take  the  cuttings  from 
horizontal  branches,  for  they  will  ever  have  an  inclination  to  grow 
in  a  spreading  manner ;  always  make  choice  of  perpendicular 
shoots,  and  particularly,  those  that  terminate  the  branches;  these 
will  most  certainly  produce  the  straightest  and  handsomest  trees, 
and  be  little  inferior  to  those  raised  from  seed ;  of  this  I  have  had 
ample  experience,  and  found  it  uniformly  to  be  the  case. 

But  when  you  intend  the  plants  for  hedges,  wildernesses,  or 
thickets,  the  same  precaution  is  not  necessary ;  though  in  propa- 
gating any  kinds  of  erect  growing  shrubs  for  detached  plants  in 
the  pleasure  garden,  I  would  recommend  it,  as  they  will  be  less 
subject  to  spread,  and  injure  other  herbaceous  flowering  plants 
growing  near  them. 

Large  shoots  cut  into  lengths,  are  often  used,  and  will  do  tolera- 
bly well,  provided  they  are  selected  as  above  ;  but  I  would  ever  pre- 
fer what  gardeners  term  cock-shoots,  or  those  retaining  the  termi- 
nating buds.  The  soft  and  pithy  sorts,  will  succeed  better,  with 
having  an  inch  or  two  of  the  former  year's  wood  annexed  to  the 


MARCH.]  THE  NURSERY.  283 

cuttings,  but  all  the  hard  wooded  kinds,  are  much  better  with- 
out it. 

For  this  purpose,  dig  one  or  more  beds,  or  shady  borders,  Sec. 
where  the  ground  is  somewhat  mellow,  and  not  wet ;  let  the  earth 
be  well  broken  with  the  spade,  and  rake  the  surface  smooth. 

Take  off  the  cuttings,  with  your  knife,  from  the  trees  or  shrubs 
that  you  want  to  increase  ;  let  them  be  of  the  last  summer's  shoots, 
cutting  them  off  from  about  six  or  eight  to  ten  or  fifteen  inches 
long,  according  as  they  may  occur  in  the  different  sorts  of  trees, 
&c. ;  plant  them  in  rows,  each  cutting  about  half  or  two  thirds  of 
its  length,  into  the  ground,  close  the  earth  well  about  them,  and  in 
dry  weather  let  them  be  occasionally  watered. 

The  Tacamahaca,  white,  black,  trembling,  Lombardy,  Canada, 
Athenian,  Carolina,  heart-leaved,  smooth-leaved,  and  various  leaves 
poplars,  and  all  the  varieties  of  willow,  may  be  propagated  in  this 
way  ;  also,  the  Plane-tree,  Tupelo-tree,  Mulberry,  and  Alder  ;  with 
the  Sea-Buckthorn,  Elder,Tamarisk,  some  kinds  of  Solanum,  Honey- 
suckles, Diervilla,  Privet,  Trumpet-flower,  Virgins-bower,  Caroli- 
na Kidney-bean  tree,  Passion-flower,  Jasmine,  Periploca,  Yew,  Ju- 
niper, Savin,  Arbor-Vitac,  Portugal  and  English  Laurels,  and  an 
immense  number  of  other  trees  and  shrubs. 

Cuttings  of  all  sorts  planted  a  year  ago,  and  that  are  well  rooted, 
may  now  be  transplanted,  or  quartered  out  into  open  nursery  rows, 
to  advance  in  proper  growth,  and  to  have  occasional  training  for  the 
purposes  intended. 

Grafting  Forest-Trees  and  Ornamental  Shrubs. 

The  latter  end  of  this  month,  will  be  a  good  time  to  graft  the  va- 
rious kinds  of  forest  trees,  flowering  and  ornamental  shrubs,  which 
you  mean  to  propagate  in  that  way ;  such  as  Elms,  Ash,  Oaks, 
Hollies  of  various  kinds,  Robinia's  double  flowering  thorns,  althea's 
and  Cherries,  Sec.  there  are  very  few  hard  wooded  plants  but  will 
take  in  this  way,  when  grafted  on  stocks  of  their  own  families,  and 
indeed  there  are  many  instances  of  plants  taking  on  stocks  of  a  dif- 
ferent genus,  as  the  pear  on  the  whitethorn,  the  peach  on  the 
plum,  &c.  &c, 

Sowing  -various  kinds  of  Tree  and  Shrub  Seeds. 

For  the  different  kinds  of  trees  and  shrubs  that  may  be  propaga- 
ted by  seeds,  and  not  herein  mentioned,  see  the  catalogues  annexed 
to  the  end  of  this  book. 

Transplanting  young  Trees  and  Shrubs. 

All  hardy  kinds  of  deciduous  trees  and  shrubs,  may  now  be  trans- 
planted, either  into  nursery  rows,  or  finally  where  intended  to  re- 
main ;  always  observing  to  do  this  in  mild  weather,  and  when  the 
ground  works  freely  and  is  in  a  good  condition  to  receive  them.  In 
the  middle,  and  particularly  in  the  eastern  states,  the  removal  of 


234  THE  NURSERY.  7  [MARCH. 

evergreens  should  not  be  commenced  before  the  beginning  of 
April,  and  then  finished  towards  the  middle  of  that  month,  if  the 
season  proves  favourable.  Hollies  are  best  removed  towards  the 
end  of  April. 

Weeding  Seedling-Trees  and  Shrubs. 

Look  over  the  seed-beds  of  young  trees  and  shrubs ;  if  weeds 
t  appear  on  them,  let  them   be   carefully   picked  out  by   hand  in 
lime,  before  they  mix  their  roots  with  those  of  the  plants. 

Watering  Seedling-Trees,  &c. 

Ill  dry  warm  weather  it  will  be  proper  to  refresh  the  seed-beds  of 
small  young  trees  and  shrubs  with  water  now  and  then ;  a  little  at 
each  time  will  do  ;  let  this  be  clone  early  in  the  morning. 

Digging"  -vacant  Ground,  Vc. 

All  requisite  digging  and  trenching  of  vacant  quarters  of  ground 
in  the  nursery,  designed  for  plantations  of  young  trees,  shrubs,  &c. 
this  spring,  should  now  be  completed,  as  soon  as  possible,  in  due 
time  for  the  reception  of  the  respective  plants  intended  ;  which,  in 
the  deciduous  kinds  particularly,  should  be  mostly  or  generally 
finished  by  the  middle  or  latter  end  of  this  month :  and  the  ever- 
greens soon  after  that  time.  See  AfiriL 

Finish  all  digging  between  the  rows  of  young  trees,  See.  in  this 
inonth  if  possible  ;  and  also  in  all  parts  where  planting  is  intended 
this  spring,  provided  that  the  ground  will  work  freely. 

Propagating  Gooseberries  and  Currants. 

The  only  proper  method  of  propagating  gooseberries,  and  cur- 
rants, is  by  cuttings  ;  suckers  should  never  be  resorted  to,  except 
in  cases  of  necessity,  for  such,  will  always  produce  others,  nume- 
rously from  their  roots,  which  carry  off  the  nourishment  that 
ought  to  go  to  the  support  of  the  fruit ;  and  besides,  they  form  such 
thickets  as  to  smother,  and  deprive  them  of  the  benefit  of  a  free 
circulating  air. 

The  proper  cuttings  for  planting,  are  the  shoots  of  the  last  sum- 
mer's production,  of  straight  clean  growth  ;  they  should  be  taken, 
from  healthy  trees,  and  such  as  are  remarkable,  according  to  their 
kinds,  for  bearing  the  finest  fruit :  let  each  be  shortened  from  about 
ten  to  twelve,  or  fifteen  to  eighteen  inches  long,  according  to  its 
strength. 

Previous  to  planting,  cut  off  every  bud  as  close  as  possible  to  the 
shoot,  except  three,  four,  or  five,  near  the  top  ;  which  are  to  be  left-, 
to  form  the  head  of  the  plant.  Some  people  imagine,  tfat  the  buds 
on  those  parts  inserted  in  the  earth,  grow  into  roots,  which  is  by 
no  means  the  case,  nature  never  having  designed  them  for  such  ; 
the  roots  or  fibres,  always  strike  out  through  the  clean  and  smooth 


JCARCH.]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  285 

bark,  but  generally,  a  little  below  a  hud,  and  sometimes  at  the  lower 
extremity  of  the  cutting,  from  between  the  bark  and  the  wood.  In 
some  kinds  these  buds  decay  and  die  away,  but  in  gooseberries  and 
currants  they  always  rise  ki  suckers,  and  from  these  others  innu- 
merably ;  which  always  rob  the  fruit,  and  often  render,  even  the 
best  kinds  not  worth  their  room  in  the  garden. 

Your  cuttings  being  thus  prepared,  plant  them  in  rows  eighteen 
inches  or  two  feet  asunder,  and  about  eight  or  nine  inches  apart  in 
the  rows,  always  inserting  them  at  least  six  inches  into  the  earth,  * 
and  if  the  shoots  are  sufficiently  long,  eight  or  nine ;  leaving  from, 
four  to  ten  inches  according  to  circumstances,  of  a  clean  stem,  be- 
tween the  surface  earth,  and  lowest  left  bud,  upon  which  to  estab- 
lish the  head.  Having  had  one  or  two  years  growth  in  these  rows, 
they  may  be  planted  out,  either  in  autumn,  or  early  in  spring, 
•where  intended  for  fruiting ;  but,  autumn  is  the  most  preferable 
season. 

Gooseberries,  of  all  other  fruit-trees,  require  the  richest  soil. 
The  situation  should  neither  be  too  high,  or  too  low,  nor  the  soil 
much  inclined  to  gravel  or  sand,  a  deep  rich  loam  is  their  fa- 
vourite. Where  this  fruit  is  expected  in  the  best  perfection,  the 
ground  between  and  about  the  trees,  must  be  kept  free  from  weeds, 
and  dug  every  spring  and  autumn,  and  strongly  manured  once  a 
year,  with  old  well  rotted  cow-dung  :  they  must  be  judiciously  prun- 
ed, and  each  tree  kept  to  a  single  stem,  without  any  suckers ; 
•which  must  be  dug  up,  or  stripped  off,  whenever  such  appear.  But 
all  the  culture  on  earth,  will  not  produce  good  fruit,  unless  you 
have  good  kinds  ;  for  there  are  crab  gooseberries,  as  well  as  crab 
apples,  and  as  great  a  variety  of  tjie  one  kind  of  fruit,  as  of  th§ 
pther. 


THE  PLEASURE,  OR  FLOWED  GARDEN- 


Hyacintlis. 

THE  choice  kinds  of  Hyacinths,  should  now  be  protected  from 
severe  frost,  for  if  permitted  to  penetrate  so  far  into  the  soil,  as  to 
reach  the  bulbs,  especially  about  the  time  that  the  plants  begin  to 
appear  above  ground,  it  will  produce  a  singular  effect,  by  causing 
some  of  them  to  shoot  forth  or  discharge  their  stems  or  blossoms ; 
but  if  at  this  time  the  roots  become  entirely  frozen  they  are  in  dan- 
ger of  being  destroyed,  or  at  least  so  weakened  as  to  produce  but 
indifferent  flowers. 


286  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [MARCH. 


Tulips. 

When  your  choice  tulips,  appear  above  ground,  if  on  examina- 
tion any  distemper,  or  canker,  is  discernable  on  the  foliage,  about 
this  time,  either  above  or  a  little  below  the  surface  of  the 
soil,  it  should  be  carefully  cut  out,  with  a  sharp  knife,  and  the  wound- 
ed part  left  exposed  to  the  sun  and  air,  which  will  presently  heal 
it :  a  fine  dry  day  should  be  made  choice  of  for  the  foregoing 
operation. 

If  the  surface  of  the  beds  appear,  to  be  of  too  close  and  solid  a 
texture,  it  should  be  carefully  stirred  up,  about  two  inches  deep, 
which  will  admit  the  air  more  freely  to  the  stems,  give  vent  to  their 
exudations  and  encourage  their  growth. 

Should  the  weather  prove  extremely  severe,  a  slight  covering  of 
mats,  placed  on  arched  hoops  over  the  beds,  will  be  very  serviceable 
to  them.  But  this  care  or  attention,  is  not  necessary  for  the  com^ 
mon  kinds,  growing  promiscuously  in  the  borders,  &c. 

Ranunculus's  and  Anemone's. 

Continue  to  protect  your  choice  kinds  of  early  planted  Ranuncu- 
lus's and  Anemone's  as  directed  in  page  153,  they  will  now  require 
particular  attention,  as  the  rudiments  of  their  flowers  will  be  ad- 
vancing, which  would  suffer  greatly,  if  too  much  exposed  to  nipping 
frosts. 

Finish  planting  the  Ranunculus's  and  Anemone's  that  are  yet 
kept  out  of  ground  for  a  successional  bloom  ;  which  is  to  be  done 
agreeably  to  the  directions  given  in  October. 

Ranunculus  roots  will  remain  in  the  ground  several  days  after 
planting,  before  they  begin  to  vegetate  ;  during  this  period,  they 
become  very  much  swelled,  by  imbibing  the  moisture  of  the  soil, 
and  are  in  this  state,  extremely  susceptible  of  injury  from  frost, 
much  more  so,  than  when  vegetation  has  actually  taken  place. 

As  soon  as  the  bed  is  planted,  if  hard  frosts  are  likely  to  ensue,  a 
sufficient  quantity  of  dry  straw  should  be  placed  near  it,  ready  for 
covering,  when  necessity  requires  ;  which  should  be  kept  on,  only 
during  severe  frost,  or  such  as  would  be  likely  to  penetrate  to  the 
roots  ;  as  the  effects  of  covering  too  long  or  too  much,  would  be  as 
destructive  as  the  reverse,  by  causing  the  roots  to  become  mouldy, 
than  which,  nothing  can  be  more  prejudicial. 

Anemone's  are  somewhat  hardier  than  Ranunculus's,  and  there- 
fore do  not  require  so  particular  care,  but  if  such  is  afforded  them, 
it  will  cause  them  to  blow  in  greater  perfection. 

Planting  Bulbsy  of  various  kinds. 

As  early  in  this  month  as  possible,  finish  planting  all  your  hardy 
kinds  of  bulbous  roots,  such  as  Hyacinths,  Tulips,  Polyanthus-Nar- 
cissus, Jonquils,  Star  of  Bethlehem,  &c.  &c. ;  as  they  must  be  con- 


MARCH.]  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

siderably  weakened  by  being  kept  too  long  implanted,  observe  the 
directions  given  in  pages  74  and  75,  under  the  article  Tutifi*. 

Auricula's. 

The  first  favourable  weather  that  occurs  in  this  month,  divest 
the  auricula  plants  of  their  exterior  decayed  leaves,  and  by  the 
middle  of  the  month,  the  operation  of  earthing  up,  as  it  is  termed, 
should  commence  ;  that  is  to  say,  the  surface  earth  of  the  pot 
should  be  taken  away,  about  one  inch  deep  and  fresh  compost,  with 
the  addition  of  a  little  loam,  should  be  substituted  in  its  stead ;  this 
will  contribute  greatly  to  the  strength  of  the  plants,  and  the  vigour 
of  their  bloom  ;  at  the  same  time,  it  will  afford  a  favourable  oppor- 
tunity to  separate  such  offsets  as  shall  appear  possessed  of  a  suf- 
ficiency of  fibres  to  be  taken  off  at  this  early  season :  these  offsets 
when  properly  planted  in  small  pots,  should  be  placed  in  a  frame, 
in  some  warm  sheltered  situation,  till  their  roots  are  established. 

The  fine  auricula's  should  now  be  protected  from  very  severe 
frost,  cold  cutting  winds,  or  excessive  rains,  for  these  would  injure 
them  and  prevent  their  blowing  in  good  perfection,  but  they  must 
have  plenty  of  air  in  mild  weather,  and  not  be  debarred  from  warm 
moderate  showers  of  rain,  which  will  now  prove  beneficial. 

When  the  weather  proves  very  dry,  let  them  be  refreshed  mo- 
derately with  water,  just  to  keep  the  earth  a  little  moist  abouttheir 
roots,  but  too  much  would  materially  injure  them.  For  their  fur- 
ther treatment  see  next  month,  &c. 

Solving   Auricula  and  Polyanthus  Seeds. 

If  you  have  neglected  last  month,  to  sow  auricula  and  polyanthus 
seeds,  to  raise  new  varieties,  sow  them  as  early  as  possible  in 
this,  agreeably  to  the  directions  given  in  page  152. 

Carnations. 

Being  provided  with  some  of  the  finest  and  most  valuable  carna- 
tions, for  with  the  common  sorts  it  will  not  be  worth  while  to  take 
much  pains ;  you  should  proceed  to  the  potting  of  them  between 
the  middle  and  latter  end  of  this  month. 

The  proper  compost  for  those  flowers,  is  as  follows,  viz. 

One  half  fresh,  sound,  loamy  earth,  taken  from  the  surface  of  a 
rich  pasture  ground,  turf  and  all,  and  not  more  than  four  or  five 
inches  deep. 

One  third,  or  a  little  more,  of  old  horse-dung,  such  as  had  bee» 
a  year  previously  used  for  hot-beds. 

One  sixth  coarse  sea,  or  river  sand. 

These  ingredients  ought  to  have  been  mixed  together  in  autumn, 
laid  in  a  heap  about  two  feet  thick,  in  an  open  exposure,  and  turned 
three  or  four  times  during  winter  ;  so  as  that  all  the  parts  may  be 
well  incorporated  and  have  the  benefit  of  the  frosts  :  early  in  March 
it  should  be  gathered  into  a  round  conical  heap,  to  drain  and  be- 


THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [MARCH; 

come  dry,  and  when  sufficiently  so,  and  wanted  for  use,  pass  if 
through  a  coarse  screen  or  sieve,  to  reduce  its  parts,  and  take  out 
stones,  or  any  other  extraneous  substance  which  it  contains. 

The  pots  made  use  of  for  spring  potting,  should  be  ten  inches  wide 
at  the  top,  five  inches  at  the  bottom,  and  eight  inches  deep  in  the 
side,  with  a  hole  in  the  centre  of  the  bottom,  an  inch  in  diameter. 

The  pots  are  first  to  be  near  half  filled  with  compost,  previously- 
placing  an  oyster-shell  or  such  like,  with  its  hollow  side  down- 
wards, over  the  hole  in  the  bottom  of  each  :  the  compost  is  to  be 
higher  at  the  sides  than  at  the  centre  of  the  pots,  and  the  plants 
intended  for  them,  which  are  supposed  to  have  been  wintered  in 
small  pots,  containing  three  plants  each,  are  to  be  carefully  turned 
out  with  the  earth  adhering  to  them  in  a  ball ;  and  after  rubbing  off 
half  an  inch  of  the  surface  of  the  old  mould  round  the  plants,  above 
their  fibres,  cleaning  them  and  cutting  of  the  points  of  their  de- 
cayed leaves,  the  ball  is  to  be  carefully  placed  in  the  centre  of  the 
pot,  and  the  space  between  it  and  the  sides  filled  up  with  the  pre- 
pared compost. 

If  your  plants  have  been  wintered  one  plant  in  each  pot  only,  a 
size  much  smaller  than  the  above,  will  be  sufficient  to  shift  them 
into,  but  when  three  plants  grow  and  flower  together  in  a  large 
pot,  they  appear  to  more  advantage. 

This  being  done,  give  the  plants  a  little  water,  and  observe  that 
the  earth  comes  no  higher  up  their  stems  than  it  did  in  the  former 
pots,  nor  should  the  compost  come  nearer  than  within  an  inch  of 
the  top  of  the  rim,  after  it  has  been  gently  shaken  or  struck  against 
the  ground  in  finishing  ;  as  an  inconvenience  will  attend  its  being 
too  full,  whtn  the  operation  of  laying,  comes  to  be  performed,  which 
requires  some  additional  mould  on  the  surface,  for  the  layers  to 
strike  into. 

When  the  plants  are  thus  potted  off  for  bloom,  they  should  be 
placed  in  an  open  airy  part  of  the  garden  under  an  arch  of  hoops, 
that  in  case  of  cold  drying  winds,  heavy  rains,  or  cold  frosty  nights, 
mats  may  be  thrown  over,  to  preserve  them  from  the  effects  of 
such  unfavourable  weather.  In  this  situation  they  are  to  remain, 
always  open  to  the  air,  except  in  the  cases  above  mentioned,  and 
be  kept  regularly  watered  with  soft  water,  as  often  as  appears  ne- 
cessary, from  a  fine  rosed  watering-pot.  For  their  further  treat- 
ment see  next  month,  May,  \?c. 

The  plants  which  were  planted  in  large  pots  last  autumn,  where 
they  are  to  remain  to  flower,  should  now  have  the  did  mould  taken 
out,  as  near  to  their  roots  as  possible,  without  disturbing  them,  and 
replaced  with  fresh  compost ;  after  which,  treat  them  as  above. 

The  common  carnations  in  beds,  borders,  8cc.  may  be  removed 
towards  the  latter  end  of  this  month,  and  planted  where  desired. 

Pin  kg. 

The  culture  of  pinks  is  much  less  difficult  than  that  of  carna- 
tions :  they  are  hardier,  more  easily  propagated,  increase  more 
abundantlv*  and  less  liable  to  incidental  casualties  thun  the  latter. 


MARCH.]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  289 

A  good,  fresh,  loamy  soil,  dug  and  well  pulverized,  about  twelve 
or  eighteen  inches  deep,  and  well  manured  and  mixed  with  cow- 
dung,  two  years  old,  is  all  the  preparation  that  is  necessary  for  this 
charming  flower. 

The  plants  designed  for  the  principal  bloom,  should  be  planted 
where  intended  to  blow,  in  September,  or  early  in  October,  as  they 
do  not  flower  quite  so  well  if  removed  later  in  the  season  ;  they 
should  be  planted  at  about  the  distance  of  nine  inches  from  each 
other,  and  the  bed  should  be  laid  rather  convex,  or  rounding,  to 
throw  off  excess  of  rain  ;  but  will  require  only  a  slight  covering  or 
protection  in  case  of  frost,  and  this  only  for  the  superior  kinds. 

The  beds  should  be  kept  free  from  weeds,  and  the  surface  stirred 
up  a  little  if  it  inclines  to  bind. 

They  may  also  be  propagated  now,  freely,  by  slips  from  their 
roots,  or  removed  if  necessary.  If  desired  to  have  them  in  pots, 
you  may  pot  a  few  of  the  finest  kinds,  as  directed  for  carnations. 

Polyanthus's. 

Your  finest  kinds  of  polyanthus's  and  double  primroses,  may  be 
treated  in  every  respect  as  directed  for  Auriculas,  if  desired  in 
pots  ;  if  not,  they  may  be  removed  at  pleasure,  between  the  middle 
and  latter  end  of  this  month,  and  large  roots  divided  for  increase  ; 
but  this  should  not  be  done  to  those  which  you  intend  to  flower 
strongly,  till  their  bloom  is  over,  immediately  after  which,  you 
may  slip  them  or  divide  their  roots.  They  are  impatient  of  heat 
and  drought,  and  love  the  reverse,  shade  and  moisture  :  they  are 
•very  hardy,  and  seldom  perish  except  by  the  summer  heats,  which 
frequently  destroy  them,  unless  the  necessary  precautions  are 
taken. 

Double  Daisies. 

These  beautiful  little  flowering  plants  may,  about  the  end  of 
this  month,  be  taken  from  their  winter  repositories,  and  planted  for 
edgings  in  shady  borders ;  for,  if  planted  in  open  exposures,  the 
summer  heat  will  totally  destroy  them,  unless  they  are  removed 
into  the  shade,  as  soon  as  their  first  bloom  is  over.  The  roots  may 
now  be  separated  for  increase,  as  every  shoot  of  them,  if  slifified  off, 
will  root  freely.  They  may  also  be  removed  into  pots  with  balls 
of  earth  adhering  to  their  roots,  where  they  will  blow  handsomely, 
but  it  would  have  been  better  if  they  were  planted  in  these,  in  Sep- 
tember, or  October. 

Giving'  fresh  Earth  to  various  Plants  in  Pots. 

Give  some  fresh  earth  to  the  pots  of  double  wall-flowers,  double 
Stock  July-flowers,  double  sweet-williams,  rockets,  rose-campions, 
catchfly,  campanulas,  scarlet  lychnis,  and  such  like  plants,  which 
were  potted  last  autumn,  or  before. 

pp 


290  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [MARC»; 

In  doing  this,  clear  the  plants  first  from  decayed  leaves,  and 
take  some  of  the  earth  out  of  the  top  of  the  pots,  but  not  too  deep, 
to  disturb  the  roots  of  the  plants  ;  then  fill  up  the  pots  again  with 
fresh  earth,  and  give  some  water  ;  this  will  strengthen  their  roots, 
and  the  plants  will  shoot  freely,  and  produce  large  flowers. 

Pricking  out  early  Annuals. 

If  any  tender  annuals  were  sown  last  month,  such  as  cockscombs, 
tricolors,  Ipomceas,  sensitive  plants,  ice  plants,  balsams,  &c.  in  or- 
der to  have  them  in  perfection  at  an  earlier  period  than  common, 
make  a  new  hot-bed  towards  the  middle  or  latter  end  of  this,  in 
which  to  prick  them,  to  forward  their  growth.  Let  the  hot-bed  be 
aj>out  thirty  inches  high,  £>nd  make  the  top  even  ;  then  set  on  the 
frame  ;  and  when  the  great  heat  is  over,  let  the  earth  be  put  in  ; 
let  it  be  light,  rich,  and  perfectly  dry,  and  lay  it  equally  over  the 
bed  six  inches  thick  ;  when  warm,  prick  the  plants  therein  at  three 
or  four  inches  distance  each  way,  or  some  may  also  be  pricked  in 
small  pots,  one  good  plant  in  each,  and  plunged  in  the  earth  of  the 
bed  ;  giving  the  whole  a  little  sprinkling  of  water  ;  then  let  the 
glasses  be  put  on,  observing  to  raise  them  behind  a  little  every  day, 
to  admit  air  and  let  out  the  steam ;  shade  the  plants  from  the  sun 
till  they  have  taken  fresh  root. 

When  they  are  rooted  and  begin  to  push,  they  should  have  fresh 
air  every  day  ;  therefore  let  the  upper  ends  of  the  glasses  be  raised 
an  inch,  two,  or  three  in  height,  to  admit  it ;  but  shut  them  down 
towards  the  evening,  and  cover  them  every  night  with  mats  ;  re- 
member to  sprinkle  them  with  water  occasionally,  giving  hut  a  lit- 
tle at  each  time. 

Keep  up  the  heat  of  the  bed  by  occasional  lining  with  hot  dung. 
Thus  these  tender  annuals  are  to  be  continued  forwarding  in  growth 
till  May ;  then,  when  the  frost  is  totally  gone,  finally  transplanted, 
into  large  pots,  flower  borders,  &c, 

Solving  tender  Annuals. 

A  hot-bed  may  be  made  the  beginning  or  any  time  this  month, 
hi  which  to  sow  the  seeds  of  tender  annual  flowers,  such  as  ice 
plant,  sensitive  plant,  Browallia's,  &c.  (See  list  of  Annuals.), 
Make  the  bed,  and  sow  the  seeds,  as  directed  in  last  month.  Or  a 
few  plants  may  be  raised  in  pots  in  any  cucumber  or  melon  hot -bed 
now  in  cultivation,  to  a  proper  size  for  transplanting.  See  ApriL 

The  plants  raised  from  the  above  sowings  will  blow  strong  and 
beautiful  in  May,  June,  July,  Sec. 

Remember  they  are  not  to  remain  in  the  hot-bed  where  raised, 
but  are  to  be  transplanted,  some  into  pots,  and  some  into  the  bor- 
ders. See  April  and  May. 

Sowing  hardy  Annual  Flowers* 

Any  time  this  month,  that  the  ground  is  in  good  condition,  you 
may  sow  in  the  borders  and  other  flower  compartments,  a  variety  of 


MARCH.]  FLOWER  GARDEN,  ,o91 

tiardy  annuals,  such  as  large  and  dwarf  annual  sunflowers,  sweet 
pea  of  every  kind,  larkspur,  flos-adonis,  persicaria,  Tangier  peas, 
Nigilla,  Venus's  looking-glass,  Venus's  navelwort,  double  dwarf 
poppy,  Lobel's  catchfly,  dwarf-lychnis,  snails,  horns,  hedgehogs, 
caterpillars,  mignonette,  china-aster,  horse-shoes,  belvidere,  candy- 
tuft, honey-wort,  convolvulus-minor,  cyanus,  china-hollyhock,  lava- 
tera,  curled  mallow,  winged  pea,  china  pink,  ten  weeks  stock,  and 
many  other  sorts,  ( see  list  of  annuals)  which  will  flower  better  if 
sown  early,  than  if  delayed  to  a  late  period  ;  though  every  of  the 
above  will  succeed  very  well  if  sown  in  the  beginning  of  next  month. 
These  should  be  sown,  each  kind  separate,  in  patches  in  the  dif- 
ferent borders  and  flower-beds,  8cc.  finally  to  remain  where  sown  ; 
or,  a  few,  when  grown  to  a  sufficient  size,  may  be  carefully  trans- 
planted into  such  borders  and  places  as  you  desire.  For  the  me- 
thod of  sowing  them,  see  page  15 1. 

Solving1  various  kinds  of  fibrous-rooted  perennial  and  biennial 
Plants. 

Perennial  and  biennial  flower-seeds,  of  most  kinds,  may  be  sown 
in  the  middle  and  southern  states,  towards  the  latter  end  of  the 
month  ;  in  the  eastern  states,  the  middle  or  latter  end  of  April  will 
be  preferable. 

It  is  to  be  observed,  that  these  kinds  do  not  flower  the  same  year 
they  are  sown  ;  but  all  the  sorts  of  them  will  flower  strong,  and  in 
good  perfection,  the  year  after. 

As  every  one  may  not  know  the  meaning  of  perennial  and  bien- 
nial plants,  the  perennials  are  those  which  continue  on  the  same 
roots  many  years,  producing  new  flower  stems  annually,  such  as 
everlasting  sun  flower,  scarlet  lychnis,  perennial  asters,  &c.  The 
biennials  are  only  of  two  years'  duration,  being  sown  one  year, 
flower  and  perfect  their  seeds  the  next,  and  soon  after  die,  or  be- 
come of  a  dwindling  growth,  such  as  honesty,  tree-primrose,  tree- 
mallow,  Sec. 

Many  kinds  are  proper  to  be  sown  now,  such  as  carnations,  pinks, 
sweet-williams,  wall-flowers,  and  stock  July-flowers  of  all  sorts  : 
also  rose-campion,  scarlet  lychnis,  columbines,  Greek  valerian,  po- 
lyanthus, auriculas',  scabious's,  and  Canterbury  bells. 

The  seeds  of  hollyhocks,  French  honeysuckles,  rockets,  honesty, 
or  satin-flower,  tree-primrose,  broad-leaved  campanula,  and  fox- 
gloves ;  snap-dragon,  bee-larkspur,  with  seeds  of  most  other  sorts 
of  perennial  and  biennial  plants,  may  now  be  sown. 

For  an  account  of  the  various  sorts  to  be  raised  from  seed,  see 
the  Catalogue  of  Plants  at  the  end  of  the  book. 

All  the  above,  and  other  hardy  perennial  and  biennial  flower- 
seeds,  are  to  be  sown  in  beds  of  light  earth  in  the  open  ground. 

For  the  method  of  sowing  them,  see  the  Flower  Garden  for  next 
month. 


292  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [MARCH. 


Dig  the  JB orders,  &c. 

Dig  the  borders  and  flower  compartments,  Sec.  and  rake  them, 
smooth  :  they  will  then  be  ready  to  receive  the  seeds  of  annual  flow- 
ers, and  plants  of  ether  kinds  ;  besides,  they  will  appear  fresh  and 
neat. 

Transplanting  fiercnnial  Plants. 

Where  there  are  vacancies  in  any  of  the  beds,  borders,  or  other 
parts  of  jthe  garden  they  may  now  be  filled  up  with  many  different 
kinds  of  perennial  and  biennial  flower-plants,  and  Mill  all  blow  the 
same  year. 

Many  principal  sorts  may  now  be  planted,  such  as  lychnis's,  rose 
campions,  rockets,  catchrfiy,  campanulas,  carnations,  pinks,  and 
swec- -williams,  double  feverfew,  golden-rod,  perennial  sun -flowers, 
perennial  asters,  and  French  honeysuckles ;  also  columbines,  Can- 
terbury-bells, monk's-hood,  fox-gloves,  tree-primroses,  scabious, 
snap-dragon,  Lobelia's  Irises,  bee-larkspur,  double  ragged  robin,  va- 
lerian, and  most  others  of  the  like  sorts. 

Plant  also  dwarf  fibrous-rooted  flowers  in  the  borders,  Sec.  they 
will  take  root  freely  in  a  short  time  ;  such  as  polyanthus's,  double 
chamomile,  London-pride,  violets,  hepatica's,  thrift,  primroses, 
saxifrage,  gentianella,  lily  of  the  valley,  &c. 

In  planting  the  intended  different  kinds,  dispose  them  variedly  ; 
the  larger  growing  sorts  more  or  less  back,  and  the  smaller  for- 
ward towards  the  front  and  middle. 

Give  water  at  first  planting,  and  afterwards  occasionally  in  dry 
weather,  till  the  plants  are  fresh  rooted ;  by  which,  they  will  grow 
freely,  and  all  flower  the  same  year  in  their  proper  seasons. 

Hoe  and  rake  the  Borders. 

Loosen  with  a  hoe  or  small  spade,  the  surface  of  those  beds  or 
borders,  which  were  dug  and  planted  with  flowers  of  any  kinds  last- 
autumn,  or  any  time  since. 

Let  this  be  done  in  a  dry  day,  hoeing,  or  lightly  digging  and  stir- 
ling  the  earth  carefully  between  the  plants,  taking  care  of  the  shoots 
of  bulbous  roots,  &c.  which  are  now  just  peeping  through  the 
surface  ;  clearing  away  all  decayed  leaves  of  the  plants,  weeds,  and 
every  sort  of  rubbish,  and  then  let  the  beds  or  borders  be  neatly 
raked  even  and  smooth. 

By  thus  loosening  the  surface  of  the  borders,  the  first  growth  of 
seed-weeds  will  be  retarded,  it  will  greatly  promote  the  strength  of 
the  flowers,  and  the  whole  will  appear  clean  and  agreeable. 

Pruning  Shrubs >  and  digging  the  Clumfis  in  the  Shrubbery. 

Finish  pruning  all  sorts  of  flowering  shrubs  and  evergreens  which 
require  it,  observing  the  directions  of  the  two  former  months. 


MARCH.]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  293 

Dig  the  ground  in  the  clumps  or  borders  if  not  done  in  the  for- 
mer month,  which  will  prove  beneficial  ;  the  ground  being  turned 
up  fresh,  will  appear  neat,  and  the  plants  will  shew  themselves 
more  agreeably. 

Planting  deciduous  Flowering  Shrubs,  ornamental  and  Forest  Trees. 

Where  deciduous  flowering  shrubs,  or  trees,  are  wanted  in  any 
of  the  pleasure-grounds,  they  may  now  be  planted  with  good  suc- 
cess, such  as  common  and  persian  lilac's  snow-drop  tree,  fringe- 
tree,  bladder  nut,  rose-acacia,  bladder-senna,  angelica-tree,  Azalea, 
honeysuckles,  Calycanthus,  New-Jersey  tea,  Judas-tree,  clethra, 
papaw,  leather-wood,  fern-leaved  Comptonia,  Amorpha,  dog-wood, 
double  flowering  thorns,  cherries  and  peaches,  snowy-medlar,  Eu- 
onymus  in  sorts,  Fothergilla,  althea-frutex,  Franklinia,  Guilandi- 
nia,  Sassafras,  swamp  Magnolia,  Benjamin-tree,  witch-hazel,  St.  Pe- 
ter's-wort,  Diervilla,  roses,  and  all  kinds  of  hardy  deciduous 
shrubs  ;  and  also,  the  tulip-tree,  lime-tree,  poplars  of  every  kind, 
catalpa,  chesnuts,  of  every  sort,  sour  and  sweet-gum,  elms,  ma^ 
pies,  walnuts,  hickory's,  plane-tree,  hornbeam,  beech,  nettle-trees, 
ash,  honey-locust,  oaks,  poplars,  See.  &c. 

In  planting  trees  for  timber,  allow  them  the  proper  distances  for 
the  purposes  intended  :  if  for  close  plantations,  or  by  way  of  cop- 
pices or  underwood  for  gradual  thinning  and  falling  for  poles  and 
other  small  purposes  every  seven,  eight,  or  ten  years  ;  you  may 
plant  them  in  close  rows,  only  four,  five,  or  six  feet  distance  ;  and 
when  they  have  attained  growths,  proper  for  the  first  thinning,  se-r 
lect  the  handsomest  plants  at  regular  distances  to  stand  for  timber, 
and  thin  the  rest ;  but  when  designed  to  have  the  whole  to  stand  for 
a  full  plantation  of  large  standards  before  any  are  thinned,  plant  their; 
fet  from  ten  to  fifteen  or  twenty  feet  distance, 

Directions  for  planting  all  sorts  of  Trees  and  Shrubs. 

All  flowering  and  ever-green  shrubs,  ornamental  trees,  Sec.  do 
signed  for  the  shrubbery,  and  other  plantations,  should  be  planted 
at  such  distances,  that  they  may  not  crowd  each  other  as  they  grow 
up  ;  for  they  always  show  themselves  best  when  they  stand  sepa* 
rate  at  moderate  distances.  Shrubs  of  all  kinds,  designed  for  de* 
tached  clumps  particulary,  should  be  planted  not  less  than  three,  to 
four  or  five  feet  asunder  ;  that  the -different  kinds,  according  to  their 
growths,maygenerally  rema  in  distinct ;  but  where  a  thickety  growth 
is  required  in  particular  compartments,  a  closer  plantation  may  be 
formed  of  different  common  shrubs. 

Let  all  the  tree  kinds  be  allowed 'proper  room,  proportionate  to 
their  respective  growths,  and  according  as  they  are  designed  for 
open  or  close  plantations,  or  clumps,  groves,  avenues,  or  thick-, 
ets,  See. 

In  planting  shrubs  and  trees  of  every  kind,  let  all  convenient  ex- 
pedition be  made  in  doing  it,  so  that  they  may  be  planted  as  soon. 
as  possible  after  they  are  taken  up,  or  brought  from  the  nursery, 
fir  elsewhere  j  that  their  roots  may  not  be  dried  by  the  sun  and 


294  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [MARCI. 

wind  ;  but  when  brought  from  any  distance,  and  that  they  cannot 
be  immediately  planted,  untie  the  bundles,  lay  the  roots  in  a  trench, 
find  cover  them  with  earth,  to  lie,  till  the  places  allotted  are  ready- 
to  receive  them. 

In  preparing  for  planting,  dig  a  round  aperture  for  each  shrub, 
or  tree,  from  half  a  yard  to  two  or  more  feet  wide,  according  to 
the  size  of  the  roots,  and  a  spade  deep,  capacious  enough  to  receive 
them  freely  ;  and  loosen  the  bottom  well.  Then  having  the 
shrubs,  &c.  ready,  prune  off  broken  or  bruised  roots,  with  any  ir- 
regular productions,  off  the  heads  ;  and  place  them  in  the  holes  up- 
right, break  the  earth  well,  and  throw  it  in  equally  about  the  roots, 
which  cover  a  proper  depth,  shaking  each  plant  gently  as  the  earth 
is  filled  in,  to  cause  it  to  settle  close  between  all  the  roots  and  fibres  ; 
tread  it  moderately,  to  fix  the  plant  firmly  in  an  upright  position, 
making  the  top  of  the  earth  a  little  hollow,  round  each,  to  hold  wa- 
ter when  given  in  dry  weather ;  and  if  they  are  watered  as  soon  as 
planted,  it  will  settle  the  earth  about  all  the  roots  more  effectually, 
and  promote  their  fresh  rooting  :  it  would  be  of  advantage  in  gene- 
ral, but  more  particularly  to  any  of  the  more  tender  or  curious 
shrubs,  Sec.  to  lay  some  long  litter  on  the  surface,  to  preserve  the 
moisture  about  the  roots  in  dry  weather. 

Immediately  after  planting,  fix  stakes  to  such  tall  plants  as  re- 
quire support,  and  let  them  be  fastened  thereto. 

Planting  Evergreens. 

Evergreen  trees  and  shrubs,  may  be  planted  with  good  success, 
any  time  this  month,  in  most  of  the  southern  states,  but  in  the 
middle  states,  that  should  not  be  attempted  before  the  last  week 
therein,  nor  in  the  eastern  states  before  the  beginning  or  middle  of 
April :  these  kinds  are  always  most  successfully  planted,  when 
done  immediately  before  their  respective  vegetations  commence  ; 
which,  is  a  rule  that  ought  to  be  carefully  observed.  See  the  Aur- 
•sery^  and  Pleasure-Garden  for  next  month. 

Planting  Roses. 

You  may  plant  roses  any  time  this  month,  that  the  weather  will 
permit ;  and  indeed  there  is  a  particular  advantage  in  planting 
some  every  ten  days,  even  to  the  middle  of  May  ;  for  the  flowering 
of  them  may  be  retarded  in  this  way,  and  the  bloom  of  those  de- 
lightful shrubs  continued  ipr  a  much  longer  period,  than  if  all  were 
planted  at  the  same  time  ;  but  such  as  are  planted  after  the  twentieth 
of  April,  should  the  season  prove  dry,  will  require  shade  and  wa- 
ter until  they  have  taken  fresh  root.  The  early  planting,  however, 
will  be  the  most 'successful:  in  growth,  and  flower  in  greater  perfec- 
tion than  the  others. 

Planting  box  Edgings. 

Bex  of  all  other  plants,  makes  the  neatest  and  most  beautiful 
edgings,  and  this  is  a  very  successful  time  to  plant  it,  particu- 


TIARCH.]  FLOWER  GARDEN".  295 

larly  in  the  middle  states  ;  in  the  other  states,  it  should  be  planted? 
on  the  spur  of  the  earliest  spring  vegetation  ;  for  although  it  is  an. 
evergreen,  its  taking  and  growing  freely  by  slips  or  cuttings,  causes 
it  to  agree  with  early  planting,  better  than  those  kinds  that  do  not 
easily  propagate  in  that  way  ;  and  moreover,  it  is  very  hardy,  and 
seldom  injured  by  winter  frosts. 

To  make  neat  edgings,  you  should  get  some  short  bushy  box, 
and  let  it  be  slipped  or  parted  into  moderately  small  slips,  of  not 
more  than  from  eight  to  ten  inches  long,  if  any  of  them  have  roots 
or  fibres,  the  better,  but  the  cuttings  or  slips  will  all  grow  if  planted 
early,  and  kept  moderately  and  occasionally  watered.  The  long 
woody  roots  of  such  as  have  them  must  be  trimmed,  and  all  the 
plants,  slips,  or  cuttings,  made  pretty  much  of  a  length. 

The  method  of  planting  is  this  :  stretch  your  line,  if  for  a  straight 
edging,  along  the  edge  of  the  bed  or  border,  let  that  part  be  trod- 
den lightly  and  evenly  along,  to  settle  it  moderately  firm,  and  with 
the  spade  make  it  up  full  and  even,  according  to  the  line ;  then  on 
the  side  of  the  line  next  the  walk,  let  a  small  neat  trench  be  cut 
out  about  six  inches  deep,  making  the  side  next  the  line  perfectly 
upright,  turning  the  earth  out  towards  the  walk  or  alley. 

The  box  is  to  be  planted  in  this  trench  close  against  the  upright 
side  next  the  line,  placing  the  plants  so  near  together  as  to  form 
immediately  a  close  compact  edging,  without  being  too  thick  and 
clumsey,  and  with  the  top  of  the  plants  as  even  as  possible,  all  an 
equal  height,  not  more  than  an  inch  or  two  above  the  surface  of  the 
ground  ;  and  as  you  proceed  in  planting,  draw  the  earth  up  to  the  out- 
side of  the  plants,  which  fixes  them  in  their  due  position  ;  and  when 
you  have  planted  the  row  out,  then  with  your  spade  cast  in  the 
earth  almost  to  the  top  of  the  plants,  and  tread  it  neatly  and  closely 
thereto  :  when  the  edging  is  planted,  let  any  inequalities  of  the  top 
be  cut  as  even  and  neat  as  possible,  with  a  pair  of  shears. 

Where  there  are  any  gaps  in  the  former  planted  edgings? 
let  them  now  be  made  good  ;  for  when  ragged  and  uneven  they  have 
a  disagreeable  appearance. 

Or  where  any  old  edgings  of  several  years  standing  have  been 
permitted  to  run  up  rude  and  spreading,  nothing  in  a  garden  looks 
more  unsightly  ;  and  should  be  taken  up,  slipped,  trimmed,  and  re- 
planted in  a  neat  regular  order. 

For  an  account  of  the  various  plants  generally  used  for  edgings 
and  the  methods  of  planting  them,  see  the  Flower  Garden  next 
month.  They  may  all  be  planted  towards  the  latter  end  of  this,  if 
the  weather  proves  favourable. 

Plant  Hedges. 

Finish  planting  all  the  kinds  of  deciduous  hedges,  as  early  in  the 
month  as  the  weather  permits,  and  if  the  season  proves  very  fa- 
vourable, you  may  in  the  last  week  thereof,  plant  evergren  hedges, 
For  the  methods  of  doing  which,  see  the  Nursery  for  this  month. 


296  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [MARCI: 


Clean  the  Pleasure  Garden. 

Every  part  of  this  garden  should  be  now  well  cleaned  and  put 
into  the  best  order.  Give  the  flower  borders,  beds,  &c.  a  general 
spring  dressing,  by  digging,  hoeing,  and  raking  ;  let  the  edgings 
of  box,  &c.  be  regulated,  where  disorderly,  and  the  gravel-walks  be 
well  cleared  from  weeds  and  litter,  and  occasionally  rolled. 

Keep  the  grass  lawns,  walks,  &c.  now  well  cleared  from  litter 
and  worm-cast  earth,  which  appears  unsightly,  and  spoils  the  com- 
pact evenness  of  the  sward  :  give  them,  therefore,  occasional  roll- 
ings with  u  heavy  roller,  whereby  to  preserve  a  clean,  even,  firm 
surface,  neat  to  appearance,  and  that  can  be  mowed  close  and  regu- 
lar with  greater  facility. 

The  edges  of  all  the  grass  walks  and  lawns,  should  now  be  cut 
even  with  an  edging-iron,  (see  page  70)  which  will  add  greatly  toi 
the  general  neatness. 

Making  Grass+Walks  and  Lawns. 

The  sooner  in  this  month  that  you  can  make  any  grass-walks, 
lawns,  or  grass-plats,  that  may  be  necessary,  the  better  ;  as  the 
roots  will  have  time  to  establish  themselves,  before  the  great 
droughts  and  heats  commence.  Turf,  when  it  can  conveniently  be 
got,  is  always  preferable  to  sowing  grass-seed,  but  in  extensive  lawns, 
the  latter,  of  necessity,  must  be  resorted  to.  The  best  turf  for 
those  purposes,  is  that  of  a  close-fed  pasture  or  common,  Where 
the  sward  is  tough,  and  the  grass  short  and  fine. 

If  you  have  much  to  lay,  you  should  be  provided  with  a  turjing- 
iron.  This  instrument  is  formed  with  an  iron  plate  for  the  cutter* 
six  or  seven  inches  wide,  rounding  at  the  edge,  very  sharp,  and 
about  a  foot  long,  pretty  much  in  the  form  of  a  spade ;  and  at  the 
tread,  it  is  forged  or  connected  to  a  long  bent  iron  handle,  the  bend- 
ing so  formed  as  to  admit  of  the  plate  or  cutter  resting  flat  on  the 
ground,  in  the  proper  position  for  flaying  the  turf;  the  iron  handle 
at  top  being  either  formed  like  the  handle  of  a  spade,  or  having  a 
socket  near  the  plate  to  place  a  crooked  wooden  and  properly  head- 
ed handle  therein.  With  this  instrument,  turf  can  be  taken  oft> 
with  much  more  convenience  and  expedition,  than  with  a  spade ; 
but  when  it  cannot  be  conveniently  had,  a  spade  may  do  very  welL 

It  will  also  be  necessary  in  order  to  go  completely  about  your 
work,  to  have  a  racer  or  sward-cutter.  This  should  have  a  stout 
wooden  handle,  about  four  feet  long  and  bent  a  little  in  the  lower 
end,  like  a  boys  common  ;  having  about  four  or  five  inches  of  the 
point  end  of  an  old  sythe,  placed  transversely  in  the  lower  extremity, 
with  the  point  downwards,  projecting  an  inch  and  a  half,  with 
the  edge  forward  and  made  fast  in  a  slit  in  the  handle,  with  a  couple 
of  rivets  ;  so  that  when  pushed  before  you,  it  may  expeditiously  cut 
the  sward  as  you  race  it  along. 

Having  this  instrument,  strain  a  line  tight,  first  lengthways,  then 
strike  the  racer  into  the  swarcl  close  to  the  line,  run  it  along,  it  will 


MARCH.]  THE  GREEN-HOUSE.  397 

expedition  sly  cut  its  way  and  divide  the  turf  to  a  proper  depth  ;  di- 
rectly place  the  line  a  foot  farther,  and  race  it  out  as  before,  and  so 
proceed  to  as  many  widths  as  may  be  wanted  ;  then  with  the  line 
placed  cross-ways,  race  out  the  sward  in  yard  lengths.  Being 
thus  divided,  the  turf-cutter  with  his  turfing  iron,  proceeds  to  cut 
them  up,  about  an  inch  and  a  half  thick,  which  he  can  do  with 
great  expedition,  and  according  as  they  are  cut,  each  should  be 
rolled  up  with  the  grass  side  inward,  as  close  and  firm  as  possible, 
for  the  more  ready  carrying  and  removing  them  without  breaking. 
Let  the  ground  where  the  turf  is  to  be  laid,  be  made  as  even  as 
possible,  that  it  may  settle  equally  thereafter,  and  rake  the  surface 
smooth.  In  laying  them,  make  the  edges  join  close  every  way,  and 
as  soon  as  laid,  the  whole  should  be  immediately  well  beaten,  with 
a  wooden  beater,  and  afterwards  rolled  with  a  heavy  stone,  or  iron 
roller. 

Gravel  Walks, 

Now  is  the  time  to  begin  to  turn  gravel  walks  where  the  surface 
is  dirty,  &c,  especially  in  the  middle  states,  observing,  that  this  is 
to  be  done  where  necessary,  in  all  parts  of  the  Union  as  early  as 
possible  in  spring. 

The  gravel  walks  which  display  a  dirty  surface,  or  are  annoyed 
with  weeds,  should  be  turned  as  early  in  this  month  as  the  weather 
gets  dry  and  comfortable,  in  order  to  render  them  neat  and  conve- 
nient for  walking  on.  For  the  method  of  doing  which,  as  well  as 
that  of  their  general  formation  and  treatment  see  the  Flower-Gar* 
den  for  next  month,  to  which  I  particularly  refer  you,  and  advise 
as  much  of  that  work  to  be  done  in  this,  as  the  weather  and  hurry 
of  business  will  permit. 

Such  gravel-walks  as  were  broken  up  and  laid  in  ridges  the  be- 
ginning of  winter,  which  is  a  very  bad  practice  as  noticed  in  page 
69,  should  now  be  levelled  down,  formed,  dressed,  and  rolled,  as  di- 
rected next  month. 

The  necessity  of  due  attention  being  paid  to  all  your  walks,  on 
the  opening  of  spring,  is  so  evident,  that  it  is  scarcely  necessary  to 
urge  it ;  the  having  them  neat  and  newly  dressed,  will  give  a  gay 
and  sprightly  appearance  to  the  whole  garden, 


THE  GREEN  HOUSE. 


THE  Green-house  plants  should  now  have  plenty  of  air  ad- 
mitted  to  them  at  all  favourable  opportunities,  particularly  as  the 
weather  gets  warm  towards  the  latter  end  of  the  month,  but  due 


298  THE  GREEN-HOUSE.  [MARCH. 

attention  must  be  paid,  in  any  sudden  changes,  which  are  very  fre- 
quent at  this  season,  to  preserve  them  from  cold,  cutting,  or  frosty 
winds ;  during  the  prevalence  of  which,  the  windows,  Sec.  should 
be  kept  close,  for  such  weather  would  ruin  some  of  the  tender 
kinds,  and  would  be  of  bad  consequence  to  all.  It  need  hardly  be 
said  that  the  windows  and  doors  must  be  kept  close  every  night, 
and  should  imperious  necessity  require  it,  in  the  early  part  of  the 
month,  the  flues  heated  at  night  to  counteract  the  power  of  severe 
frosts. 

Look  over  the  tubs  or  pots  every  other  day,  and  see  where  water 
is  wanting,  and  let  such  as  require  it  be  supplied  therewith,  taking 
care  to  use  moderation  in  that  case.  Water  will  be  serviceable  to 
most  of  the  plants,  but  especially  to  all  the  woody  kinds,  which  will 
now  require  more  frequent  refreshments,  if  fine  mild  weather,  but 
always  in  moderate  quantities  ;  and  be  still  careful,  on  the  whole,  not 
to  give  too  much  water  at  a  time,  for  that  would  prove  the  destruc- 
tion of  many  kinds,  and  would  be  prejudicial  to  the  plants  in  gene- 
ral, especially  if  a  cold  season,  and  while  they  are  confined  in  the 
green-house. 

Keep  every  plant  in  the  house  free  from  decayed  leaves  ;  that  is, 
where  such  appear  let  them  be  immediately  picked  off';  for  these, 
if  generally  permitted  to  remain  would  injure  the  plants  ;  besides, 
they  appear  disagreeable. 

Any  decayed  or  mouldy  shoots  should  be  cut  clean  off  to  the  firm 
live  wood,  and  where  dust,  or  any  sort  of  filth,  appears  on  the  leaves 
of  the  plants,  let  them  be  cleared  therefrom  :  if  those  of  the  oranges, 
lemons,  and  other  large-leaved  kinds,  are  foul,  have  a  sponge  dipped 
in  water,  and  clean  them  therewith,  one  by  one,  and  let  the  small 
leaved  sorts  be  cleaned  by  watering,  out  of  a  watering-pot,  all  over 
their  heads. 

Oranges,  Lemons,  and  Myrtles. 

Where  any  of  the  oranges,  lemons,  and  myrtles,  Sec.  have  naked 
or  irregular  heads,  you  may  now  towards  the  latter  end  of  the 
month,  if  mild  fine  weather,  begin  to  reduce  them  to  some  regu- 
larity. The  branches  or  head  may  either  be  cut  close,  or  shortened 
less  or  more  to  the  place  where  you  desire  shoots  to  rise,  to  form  the 
head  regular,  for  they  will  break  out  in  the  old  wood. 

When  any  trees  are  thus  headed  down,  it  would  also  be  an  ad- 
vantage to  shift  them,  especially  such  as  are  of  a  weakly  growth, 
in  order  to  add  a  little  fresh  earth  about  their  roots  >  and  the  me- 
thod is  this :  let  the  tree  be  taken  out  of  its  tub  or  pot,  but  preserve 
the  ball  of  earth  entire ;  then  trim  off  with  your  knife  any  very 
matted  roots,  or  dry  fibres  round  the  outside,  and  also  some  of  the 
loose  old  earth  from  the  bottom  and  sides  of  the  ball ;  and,  having 
fresh  compost  ready,  put  some  into  the  bottom  of  the  pot  or  tub  ; 
place  the  tree  therein,  fill  up  round  the  ball  with  fresh  earth,  and 
give  it  a  little  water. 

But  in  heading  down  any  of  the  green-house  plants,  if  time  will 
not  permit,  or  that  you  think  it  not  necessary  to  shift  them  as  above, 
do  not,  however,  fail  to  loosen  the  earth  in  the  top  of  the  tub  or  pots, 


MARCH.]  THE  GREEN-HOUSE.  099 

arid  a  little  way  down  round  the  sides,  and  draw  this  loose  earth 
out;  then  fill  up  the  tub  again  with  new  compost,  and  give  some 
water. 

But  where  any  orange  or  lemon  trees,  are  in  a  very  weak  or 
sickly  unprosperous  growth,  it  would  be  advisable  about  the  latter 
end  of  this  month,  or  beginning  of  next,  to  prune  the  heads  and 
shift  them  into  entire  new  earth  ;  taking  the  plant  clean  out  of  the 
pot,  all  the  old  earth  shaken  entirely  from  its  roots,  and  all  mouldy 
and  decayed  roots  cut  off;  then  let  the  whole  root  be  washed  in 
water,  and  plant  it  again  immediately  in  a  tub  or  pot  of  new  earth, 
taking  care  not  to  place  it  too  deep  ;  and  give  water  moderately. 

After  this  shifting,  it  would  be  a  great  advantage  to  the  same 
plants,  if  you  have  the  conveniency  of  a  glass-case,  Sec.  in  which 
previously  to  make  a  hot-bed  of  tan  or  dung,  but  tan  is  much  pre- 
ferable, and  if  in  this  bed  the  trees  are  plunged,  they  will  shoot 
sooner,  and  more  freely,  both  in  root  and  top,  to  recover  good 
strength,  and  a  renewed  head  of  branches  of  prosperous  growth, 
early  in  the  following  summer. 

Heading  down  Myrtles,  &c. 

Where  myrtles,  or  other  similar  exotics,  have  decayed  branches, 
or  their  heads  thin,  straggling,  and  irregular,  they  may  now  also  be 
headed  down,  more  or  less,  as  it  shall  seem  proper,  and  either  shift 
them  into  some  fresh  earth,  as  directed  above  for  the  oranges,  or 
some  of  the  top-mould  within  the  pots  taken  out,  and  a  little  round 
the  sides  ;  then  fill  up  with  fresh  earth,  and  water  them. 

These  trees,  with  this  management,  will  shoot  out  again,  and  in 
four  or  five  months  time,  will  be  furnished  with  entire  new  heads. 
Supply  them  duly  with  water. 

Shifting  Plants,  that  want  it,  into  larger  Pots. 

Any  of  the  oranges,  lemons,  or  myrtles,  or  other  green-house 
plants,  that  want  larger  pots,  may  be  shifted  therein,  with  some 
fresh  earth,  towards  the  end  of  this  month,  when  the  weather  is 
mild. 

In  performing  this,  let  each  plant  intended  for  shifting,  be  turned 
out  of  its  present  pot  with  the  ball  of  earth  entire  ;  but  let  any 
thickly-matted  or  dry  mouldy  roots,  on  the  out-side  of  the  ball,  be 
pared  off  with  a  sharp  knife  ;  then  set  them  in  their  new  pots,  and 
fill  up  the  spaces  with  fresh  earth. 

Water  them  immediately  after  this,  set  them  in  their  places 
in  the  green-house,  and  they  will  shoot  freely  both  at  root  and 
top. 

Care  of  Geraniums,  &c. 

Examine  the  geraniums  and  other  plants  of  a  similar  growth  ; 
the  young  shoots  being  somewhat  succulent,  are  more  liable  to  in- 
jury from  the  effects  of  a  severe  winter,  or  great  damps,  than  the 


300  THE  GREEN-HOUSE.  [MARCH. 

harder-wooded  exotics,  so  as  sometimes  many  of  them  decay  or 
mould  ;  and  which,  where  they  occur,  should  now  be  pruned  away  : 
likewise  pick  off  all  decayed  leaves. 

Giving  fresh  Earth  to  the  Pots  of  Green-house  Plants. 

The  oranges,  and  green -house  plants  in  general,  which  do  not 
require  shifting,  should  at  this  time,  have  some  fresh  earth  added 
to  the  tops  of  their  pots  or  tubs  ;  it  will  encourage  the  plants  great- 
ly, and  it  is  soon  done. 

First  loosen  the  old  earth,  in  the  tops  of  the  tubs,  or  pots,  quite 
to  the  surface  of  the  roots,  but  so  as  not  to  disturb  them,  and  loosen 
it  also  down  round  the  sides  a  little  way  ;  then  take  out  the  loose 
earth,  and  fill  up  the  pots  wittj  some  that  ia  new,  and  give  them  a 
moderate  watering. 

Sow  Seeds  of  Green-house  Plants,  &c. 

A  hot-bed  may  be  made  the  beginning  of  this  month  to  sow  the 
seeds  of  tender  plants,  either  of  the  green-house  or  stove  kinds. 
The  bed  should  be  made  either  of  hot  dung,  or  fresh  tanner's  bark, 
and  covered  with  frames  and  glasses  ;  or  if  made  of  hot  dung,  lay 
eight,  ten,  or  twelve  inches  of  tan-bark  at  top,  either  new  or  old, 
both  in  which  to  plunge  the  pots,  Sec.  and  to  continue  longer  a  re- 
gular heat. 

The  seeds  should  be  sown  in  pots  of  light  earth,  and  these 
plunged  to  their  rims  in  the  tan,  and  moderately  watered  at  times, 
as  you  see  occasion. 

Where  tan  cannot  be  obtained  readily,  make  the  bed  of  hot  dung, 
three  feet  high  ;  set  a  frame  on,  and  when  the  burning  heat  is  over, 
lay  on  four  or  five  inches  depth  of  earth  ;  then  fill  some  middling 
small  pots  with  fine  light  mould,  sow  the  seeds  therein,  and  cover 
them  lightly  with  sifted  earth  ;  then  plunge  the  pots  in  the  earth 
on  the  bed,  and  put  on  the  glasses. 

Let  the  pots  in  general  be  frequently  sprinkled  with  water,  and 
when  the  plants  appear,  give  them  fresh  air,  by  raising  the  glasses 
behind  a  little  way.  Observe  to  keep  up  the  heat  of  the  bed,  by 
applying  a  lining  of  fresh  hot  dung,  when  it  declines  much,  and 
protect  them  occasionnaily  from  the  two  powerful  influence  of  the 
niid-day  sun. 

{Sowing  Kernels  cf  Oranges  for  Stocks. 

Now  is  the  time  to  sow  the  kernels  of  oranges  and  lemons,  in 
crder  to  raise  stocks  to  bud  any  of  those  kinds  of  trees  upon. 

The  best  method  of  sowing  these  kernels  is  this  :  fill  some  mid- 
dle-sized pots  with  very  good  earth  ;  sow  the  kernels  in  the  pots, 
and  cover  them  half  an  inch  deep  with  earth  ;  then  plunge  the  pots 
into  a  hot-bed,  and  let  them  be  frequently  watered.  See  the  Green-, 
next  month. 


MARCH.]  THE  HOT-HOUS.E.  301 


Propagating  by    Cuttings,  Layers,  &c. 

Propagate,  by  cuttings  and  slips,  various  shrubby  green-house 
plants,  as  myrtles,  geraniums,  fuschia's,  oleanders,  hydrangea's, 
jasmines,  coronilla's,  justicia's,  &c.  the  young  shoots  planted  in 
pots,  and  placed  in  a  hot-bed,  will  soon  strike  root  and  grow  free- 
ly ;  or  where  there  is  the  convenience  of  bark -beds,  either  in  a  hot- 
house, or  under  any  glass  frames,  Sec.  these,  and  many  other  sorts, 
if  plunged  therein,  may  be  struck  very  expeditiously  ;  or,  if  at  the 
same  time  some  are  covered  with  a  hand-glass,  it  will  still  more 
expedite  their  rooting  ;  giving  proper  waterings. 

Likewise  propagate  shrubby  kinds  by  layers,  and  also  different 
sorts  by  suckers,  &c. 


THE  HOT-HOUSE. 


Fruiting  Pines, 

It  is  OIY  a  due  proportion  of  air  admitted  into  the  Hot-house, 
that  the  goodness  of  the  pine  plants,  in  a  great  measure  depends. 
The  want  of  it  will  cause  them  to  grow  with  long  leaves  and  weak 
stems,  which  plants,  never  produce  good  fruit.  . 

On  the  other  hand,  air  admitted  in  too  great  a  quantity,  or  at  im- 
proper times,  will  injure  the  plants,  and  cause  them  to  grow  yel- 
low and  sickly. 

In  the  depth  of  winter,  during  the  time  that  the  plants  are  nearly 
in  a  state  of  inaction,  the  hot-house  will  require  but  very  little  air ; 
yet  it  will  absolutely  be  necessary  to  take  every  favourable  oppor- 
tunity to  let  out  the  foul  air,  and  admit  fresh,  when  it  can  be  done 
with  safety  to  the  plants ;  the  letting  down  the  glasses  a  little  way, 
even  fora,  few  minutes,  in  the  middle  of  the  day,  is  of  more  impor- 
tance than  inexperienced  persons  .can  conceive,  especially  when 
there  is  a  little  sun  and  a  mild  wind.  But  at  this  season,  particu- 
larly in  the  advanced  part  of  the  month,  to  have  regard  to  the  words 
give  air  on  the  botanical  thermometers,  is  not  necessary,  for  a  lit- 
tle may  with  much  safety  be  given,  although  the  spirits  should  not 
rise  higher  than  62°  of  Fahrenheit,  or  six  or  eight  degrees  above 
temperate. 

It  will  be  necessary  to  continue  a  regular  degree  cf  heat  in  the 
house,  as  directed  last  month,  by  keeping  up  a  fire-heat  every  even- 
ing, night,  and  morning,  but  more  particularly  in  severe  weather  ; 


302  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  [MARCH. 

and  a  constant  heat  in  the  bark-bed.  As  the  heat  of  the  weather  in- 
creases,'and  the  sun  becomes  powerful,  the  morning  fires,  in  par- 
ticular, must  be  regulatedly  accordingly. 

The  fruiting-plants  will  now  generally  shew  fruit,  they  must 
therefore  have  very  particular  care,  and  not  be  suffered  to  want  a 
sufficiency  of  bottom  heat,  air,  or  a  reasonable  portion  of  water. 

Examine  the  bark -bed,  and  see  if  there  is  a  proper  heat ;  for  upon 
that  depends  the  success  of  having  handsome  and  full-sized  fruit. 
The  great  article  is  to  preserve  a.  free  growth  in  the  fruit,  from  their 
iirst  appearance  to  the  time  of  their  maturity  ;  this  must  be  done 
by  keeping  the  bark-bed  to  a  proper  degree  of  heat  ;  that  is,  it 
should  be  quite  lively,  for  a  faint  heat  will  not  answer  the  purpose  j 
therefore,  on  examining  the  bed,  if  you  find  it  much  decreased,  let 
preparation  be  made  for  its  revival  as  soon  as  possible. 

Provide,  for  that  purpose,  a  quantity  of  new  bark  from  the  tan- 
ners, the  beginning  of  this  month.  The  middle-sized  bark  is  to  be 
chosen,  and  such  as  has  been  at  least  a  fortnight  or  three  weeks  out 
of  the  tan-vats. 

The  quantity  of  fresh  bark  necessary  to  provide  at  this  time, 
should  be  equal  to  near  one  third  of  what  the  bark-pit  will  contain. 
This  when  brought  home,  if  very  full  of  moisture,  and  but  little  or 
no  heat,  should  be  thrown  up  in  a  heap,  to  remain  eight  or  ten 
days,  to  drain  and  prepare  for  fermentation.  But  if  very  wet,  it 
should  be  first  spread  thin  in  an  open  sunny  place  for  two  or  three 
days  to  dry,  and  be  then  thrown  in  a  heap. 

When  your  bark  is  ready,  and  that  the  bark-pit  is  declined  in 
heat,  the  latter  end  of  this  month,  or  earlier  if  necessary,  proceed 
to  fork  up  and  renew  it  as  directed  in  page  169,  and  immediately 
replunge  the  pots.  The  whole  of  this  work  should  be  begun  and 
finished  the  same  clay  if  possible. 

The  heat  of  the  old-bark,  not  being  quite  exhausted,  will  cause 
the  ntw  immediately  to  ferment,  and  if  well  proportioned,  and  mix- 
ed, and  that  it  is  done  towards  the  end  cf  the  month,  it  will  retain  a 
kindly  growing  heat  till  the  fruit  is  ripe.  Tor  further  particulars, 
5ee  January  and  February. 

Succession  Pines. 

As  the  length  of  the  day  and  power  of  the  sun  increases  these 
plants  will  begin  to  grow  freely,  and  from  that  time  it  will  be  neces- 
sary to  keep  them  in  a  regular  growing  state ;  for  if  young  plants 
receive  a  check  afterwards,  it  generally  causes  many  of  them  to 
start  fruit.  From  this  time  forward  they  will  require  a  little  water 
occasionally,  just  what  is  only  sufficient  to  keep  the  earth  in  a  mo- 
derate state  of  moisture,  for  too  much  would  injure  them. 

About  the  middle  of  the  month  or  soon  alter,  will  be  an  eligible 
season  for  shifting  them  3  in  the  doing  of  which,  shake  off  the  whole 
ball  of  earth,  and  cut  olf'  all  the  roots  that  are  cf  a  black  colour, 
carefully  preserving  such  only,  as  are  white  and  strong.  Then  put 
the  plants  that  are  intended  to  fruit  next  season,  in  pots  of  eight  or 


MARCH.]  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  303 

nine  inches  diameter  at  the  top,  and  seven  deep,  with  fresh  mould 
entire. 

The  bed  at  this  time  should  be  renewed  with  a  little  fresh  tan, 
and  forked  up  in  order  to  promote  its  heating,  and  the  pots  plunged 
therein  immediately.  The  Hot-house  should  be  kept  pretty  warm 
till  the  heat  of  the  tan  begins  to  rise,  as  it  will  be  the  means  of  caus- 
ing the  plants,  to  strike  both  sooner  and  stronger. 

As  soon  as  the  bed  gets  warm,  give  the  plants  a  sprinkling  of  wa- 
ter over  their  leaves  ;  and  when  you  perceive  them  to  grow,  give 
water  according  as  they  require  it ;  and  as  the  weather  increases 
in  heat,  give  air  in  proportion. 

Parlous  Shrubby  and  Succulent  Plot-House  Plants. 

The  various  kinds  of  shrubby  and  succulent  exotics,  will  require 
the  same  treatment  this  month  as  directed  in  the  last,  page  170, 
.  Scc.but  particularly  observing  to  give  them  air  in  proportion  as  the 
heat  of  the  weather  increases,  and  water  according  to  their  respect- 
ive necessities,  as  noticed  in  February. 

Propagation  of  Exotic  Trees,  Shrubs  and  Plants. 

This  is  a  very  proper  time  to  sow  such  seeds  of  rare  plants  as  you 
are  able  to  procure  :  those  that  are  in  good  condition  and  whose 
nature  it  is  to  vegetate  the  first  season,  will  rise  freely,  but  many- 
kinds  will  not  grow  for  three,  four,  five  or  six  months  after  sowing ; 
and  others  not  for  a  year ;  therefore,  it  will  be  necessary  to  have 
patience,  and  to  take  care  all  the  time  of  the  whole,  as  well  the  pots 
in  which  the  plants  do  not  rise,  as  those  that  do  ;  if  you  have  room 
to  plunge  them  into  the  bark-pit,  or  into  hot-beds  at  work  or  made 
for  the  purpose,  it  will  greatly  facilitate  their  growth. 

You  may  now  propagate  many  kinds  by  suckers,  cuttings,  and 
layers,  which  should  be  duly  attended  to,  paticularly  such  as  are 
scarce  and  difficult  to  be  otained. 

Raising  early  Flowers,  Fruits,  &c.  in  tks  Hot-House. 

Pots  of  any  desirable  flowering  plants  may  still  be  introduced,  to 
forward  an  early  bloom,  such  as  pinks,  fuschia's,  hydrangea's,  roses^ 
carnations,  and  many  others.  See  February,  &c. 

Also  pots  of  strawberries  and  vines,  as  in  the  two  former  monthsr 
to  continue  the  supply  of  early  fruit. 

Likewise  a  few  more  kidney-beans,  Sec.  See  last  month  and 
January. 

In  hot-houses  where  vines  are  trained  in,  from  plants  growing  on 
the  outside,  and  conducted  up  under  the  glasses,  Sec.  they  will  to- 
wards the  end  of  this  month,  or  earlier  according  to  the  degree  of 
heat  kept  up,  be  well  advanced  in  young  shoots,  having  fruit,  which 
shoots  should  be  carefully  trained  along  in  regular  order,  and  all 
the  improper  and  superfluous  growths  cut  away. 


304  [APRIL, 


APRIL. 


THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN. 

PREVIOUS  to  entering  upon  the  work  of  the  Kitchen-Gar- 
den, See.  for  this  month,  it  will  be  proper  to  observe,  that  a  great 
portion  of  the  open  ground  culture  and  sowing,  necessary  to  be 
done  in  some  places  in  April,  has  been  fully  treated  of  in  March, 
in  order  to  accommodate  those  citizens  of  the  middle  states,  whose 
gardens,  from  the  nature  of  soil  and  situation,  admit  of  early  sow- 
ing, as  well  as  a  desire  in-many,  to  have  their  crops  at  as  early  a 
period  as  possible,  either  for  sale,  or  family  use  ;  and  also  for  the 
general  accommodation  of  the  more  southerly  states ;  that  month  be- 
ing their  principal  season  for  gardening.  But  in  the  eastern  states 
generally,  and  in  such  parts  of  the  middle  states  as  the  ground  is 
naturally  of  a  binding  and  heavy  nature,  this  will  be  the  most  eligi- 
ble period,  for  sowing  their  general  garden  crops  ;  always  observ- 
ing, to  sow  the  hardy  kinds  as  early  in  the  month  as  the  soil,  sea- 
son, and  situation  will  admit  of;  in  order  that  the  young  plants 
may  be  established,  before  they  are  overtaken  by  the  summer  heat 
and  drought ;  but  never,  or  on  any  account,  should  a  stiff  or  moist 
ground  be  wrought,  till  it  gets  so  dry  as  to  fall  to  pieces  in  the 
working,  nor  delayed  till  it  binds  and  becomes  hard.  Let  the  spade 
not  be  applied,  till  every  particle  of  water,  that  is  not  in  contact  with 
the  clay,  is  either  drained  away,  or  drawn  off  by  the  air ;  nick  that 
time,  and  you  will  then  find  the  earth  to  work  freely,  and  not  sub- 
ject to  bind  afterwards  ;  for  if  a  clay  is  worked  before  this  critical 
period,  it  kneads  like  dough,  becomes  more  tough,  and  never  fails 
to  bind  when  drought  follows,  which  not  only  prevents  the  seeds  to 
rise,  but  injures  the  plants  materially  in  their  subsequent  growth, 
by  its  becoming  impervious  to  the  moderate  rains,  dews,  air,  and 
influence  of  the  sun,  which,  are  all  necessary  to  the  promotion  of 
vegetation. 

On  the  other  hand,  a  light  sandy  soil  will  be  rather  4>enefitted  by- 
working  it  when  moist,  as  such  will  have  a  tendency  to  make  it 
more  compact,  and  consequently  more  retentive  of  moisture. 

The  nearer  the  ground  approaches  to  a  sand,  the  less  retentive 
will  it  be  of  moisture  ;  the  more  to  a  clay  the  longer  will  it  retain 
it  ;  and  the  finer  the  particles  of  which  the  clay  is.  composed,  the 
faster  will  it  hold  every  small  particle  of  water,  and  consequently 
be  longer  in  drying,  and  become  harder  when  dry  :  but  earth  of  a 
consistence  that  will  hold  water  the  longest,  without  becoming  hard 
•when  dry,  is  that  of  all  others,  the  best  adapted  for  raising  the  gene- 
rality of  plants,  in  the  greatest  perfection.  This  last  described,  is 
called  loam,  and  is  a  medium  earth,  between  the  extremes  of  clay 
and  sand. 


AJ.RIL.]  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  305 

The  great  art  of  improving  sandy  and  clay  soils  ;  is,  to  give  to  the 
former,  such  dressings  of  clay,  cow-dung,  and  other  kinds  of  ma- 
nure, as  will  have  a  tendency  to  bind  and  make  it  more  compact, 
and  consequently  more  retentive  of  moisture  ;  and  to  the  latter, 
coats  of  sandy  earth,  pond-mud,  horse-dung,  and  such  other  com- 
posts as  may  tend,  to  separate  its  particles  and  open  its  pores,  there- 
by easily  to  discharge  any  superabundance  of  moisture,  and  cause 
it  to  approach,  as  near  as  possible,  to  a  loam  ;  which  may  be  greatly 
assisted  by  summer  and  winter  fallowing ;  for  the  winter  frost,  and 
summer  heat,  being  the  plough  and  spade  of  nature,  have  a  power 
to  separate  the  particles  of  earth,  by  the  expansion  of  the  particles 
of  water,  lodged  between,  and  in  contact  with  them,  more  effectually, 
than  the  ploughs  and  spades  made  by  the  hand  of  man ;  but  when 
art  and  nature  act  in  co-operation,  the  business  is  more  speedily 
accomplished.  This  is  the  foundation  stone,  of  horticulture  and 
agriculture,  and  merits  the  serious  consideration  of  every  person 
.concerned. 

Let  it  not  be  understood,  that  I  am  an  advocate  for  late  sowing 
or  planting ;  I  am  the  reverse,  when  it  can  be  done  under  favour- 
able circumstances. 

The  above  remarks  are  applicable  generally,  to  all  the  other 
open-ground  departments,  as  well  as  to  the  Kitchen-Garden  ;  but 
particularly,  in  as  much  as  they  have  relation  to  the  sowing  of 
seeds. 

Care  of  Cucumbers  and  Melons,  &c. 

Examine  your  cucumber  and  melon  beds,  and  if  any  have  de- 
clined in  heat,  especially  in  the  early  part  of  the  month,  line  them 
with  fresh  dung,  as  directed  in  page  9  :  this  will  be  necessary,  in 
order  to  obtain  plentiful  crops  of  fruit. 

As  the  sun  is  now  become  very  powerful,  all  kinds  of  plants, 
which  you  have  in  hot-beds,  will  require  abundance  of  air,  and  oc- 
casional shade  ;  for  if  the  beds  were  left  close  shut,  only  for  a  few 
hours,  during  the  prevalence  of  a  hot  mid-day  sun,  the  whole  would 
be  schorched  to  death  :  therefore,  you  ought  never  to  leave  the 
garden  at  such  times,  without  first  raising  the  glasses,  and  giving 
shade  to  the  plants  if  thought  necessary. 

Making  new  Hot-beds  for  Cucumbers  and  Melons. 

In  order  to  have  successional  crops  of  encumbers  and  melons, 
you  may  in  the  early  part  of  this  month,  make  new  hot-beds,  either 
for  the  reception  of  plants  or  for  sowing  the  seeds  ;  observing 
the  directions  given  in  the  former  months,  as  well  for  these,  as  the 
due  attention  which  fruiting  and  other  plants  require. 

Making  Hot*bed  Ridges ,  for  Cucumbers  and  Melons, 

Make  hot-bed  ridges,  about  the  middle  of  this  month,  for  the  cu- 
cumber and  melon  plants  raised  last  month,  in  order  to  be  planted 

R  r 


306  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  [APRIV: 

under  hand  or  bell-glasses.  For  this  purpose,  make  trenches  three 
feet  wide,  and  two  deep,  in  a  warm  dry  part  of  the  garden,  and  fiil 
them,  to  the  surface,  with  good  fresh  horse  dung,  as  directed  in  Ja- 
nuary for  other  hot-beds ;  then  you  may  either  earth  them  direct- 
ly, or  in  two  or  three  days  after,  when  the  dung  will  be  settled,  and 
the  heat  arisen  to  the  top  of  the  bed,  laying  from  seven  to  nine 
inches  thick  of  ligTit  rich  earth  over  every  part. 

When  this  is  done  and  all  the  surface  made  smooth,  lay  on  your 
hand  or  bell -glasses,  in  the  middle  of  the  ridge,  four  feet  asunder, 
and  keep  them  close  down,  till  the  dung  has  thoroughly  warmed  the 
earth,  then  proceed  to  put  in  the  plants. 

You  may  plant  under  each  glass  two  strong  melon  plants,  or  three 
cucumbers  ;  observing  if  possible,  to  remove  and  plant  them  with 
balls  of  earth  about  their  roots. 

As  soon  as  they  are  planted,  let  them  be  moderately  watered,  and 
directly  set  on  the  glasses  :  if  sunny  weather,  and  the  sun  power- 
ful, shade  them  a  little  with  a  mat  over  each  glass  ;  and  repeat  the 
waterings  occasionally,,  once  or  twice  a  week,  according  to  the  de- 
gree of  warmth  in  the  bed,  and  temperature  of  the  weather";  but 
let  moderation  be  always  observed,  in  performing  this  work,  espe- 
cially when  newly  planted. 

When  the  plants  are  well  taken  with  the  ground  and  growing 
freely,  give  them  plenty  of  air,  by  raising  the  glasses  on  one  side, 
and  when  they  have  grown  so  large  as  to  run  out  under  the  glasses, 
let  these  be  raised  on  brick-bats,  stones  or  pieces  of  wood,  to  give 
full  liberty  to  the  plants,  and  do  not  take  them  off  totally,  till  to- 
wards the  end  of  May. 

Cucumber  and  melon  seeds  may  be  sown  about  the  middle  of 
this  month,  on  ridges  made  as  above,  and  protected  with  glasses  ; 
these  will  be  much  earlier,  than  if  sown  in  the  beginning  of  May, 
in  the  open  ground,  and  much  more  profitable  to  market'gardeners> 

Planting  Cauliflowers. 

la  order  to  have  cauliflowers  in  good  perfection,  you  must  be- 
provided  with  stout  early  plants,  such  as  are  strong,  and,  in  the 
middle  states,  perfectly  fit  for  planting  out,  early  in  this  month  : 
being  furnished  with  these,  select  a  piece  of  very  rich  loam,  rather, 
inclining  to  moisture,  but  by  no  means  wet,  and  such  as  will  not  be 
subject,  either  to  burn  or  become  stiff  and  bound  by  severe  drought, 
always  avoiding  sa^id,  or  clay,  as  much  as  possible  ;  give  it  at  least, 
four  or  five  inches  deep  of  well  rotted  cow-dung,  or  if  this  cannot 
be  had,  other  old  manure  ^  dig  or  trench  it  one  good  spade  or 
eighteen  inches  deep,  incorporating  the  manure  effectually  there- 
with, as  you  proceed  in  the  digging  or  trenching. 

Then  in  the  first  week  of  this  month,  take  up  your  plants,  which 
\yere  managed  as  directed  in  the  preceding  months,  with  a  trans - 
planter  or  hollow  trowel,  one  by  one,  preserving  as  much  earth  as 
possible  about  their  roots,  and  plant  them  down  to  their  leaves,  in 
rows  three  feet  asunder,  and  the  same  distance,  plant  from  plant,,  in 
the  rows,  forming  a  little  hollow  (bason  like)  about  eight  inchei 


THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  307 

•over,  and  two  deep,  round  every  plant,  to  receive  water  occasionally, 
till  fit  for  earthing  up  ;  and  which,  immediately  previous  to  landing 
the  plants,  should  be  filled  with  good  compost  earth,  if  convenient. 
Then  give  each  a  -little  water,  which  repeat  at  intervals  of  three 
or  four  days,  till  in  a  vigorous  growing  state,  and  afterwards  occa- 
sionally. Or,  after  having  first  manured  and  dug  the 'ground,  you 
may  make  trenches  as  if  for  celery,  in  the  direction  of  north  and 
south,  and  in  the  bottom  of  each,  lay  four  inches  deep  of  well  rotted 
cow-dung,  cast  thereon  five  or  six  inches  of  earth,  and  point  over 
the  whole  with  your  spade,  mixing  the  earth  and  dung  effectually  : 
in  these  trenches  plant  your  cauliflower  plants  at  the  above  distances, 
and  give  occasional  waterings  as  before. 

To  attempt  planting  cauliflowers  in  poor  ground,  would  be  labouv 
in  vain ;  they  love,  nay  they  require  a  deep,  very  rich,  and  moist 
loam,  and  agree  exceedingly  well,  with  large  quantities  of  manure. 

You  should  be  provided  with  hand-glasses,  garden-pots,  or  covers 
made  of  two  boards,  each  a  foot  long,  and  nailed  together  at  right 
angles,  to  cover  every  plant,  at  night  and  in  very  severe  weather, 
for  two  or  three  weeks  after  planting  ;  observing  to  take  them  off, 
early  each  morning,  except  the  weather  is  desperate,  and  never  to 
keep  a  dark  covering  over  the  plants,  longer  than  necessity  re- 
quires. 

This  occasional  protection  is  necessary,  to  keep  them  in  a  con- 
stant and  uninterrupted  state  of  vegetation,  for  if  stunted  at  this  pe- 
riod, by  frost  or  too  much  cold,  many  will  button,  and  very  few  pro- 
duce large  flowers. 

The  early  cauliflower  plants,  under  hand-glasses,  should  have 
earth  drawn  up  to  their  stems.  This  will  be  of  great  service  in  pro- 
moting a  strong  forward  growth. 

The  hand  or  bell-glasses  may  still  be  continued  over  these  plants 
on  nights,  android  wet  weather  •;  but  in  warm  days,  and  when  there 
are  mild  rains,  let  them  be  exposed  to  the  free  air  :  when  the  plants 
are  considerably  advanced  in  growth,  the  glasses  should  be  raised 
proportionably  high  on  props  ;  first  drawing  a  border  of  earth,  two 
or  three  inches  high,  or  more,  round  each  plant ;  then  place  the 
props  upon  that,  and  set  the  glasses  thereon  ;  but  towards  the  end 
of  this  month,  or  beginning  of  next,  they  should  be  taken  entirely 
away. 

The  above  instructions  will  suit  any  part  of  the  union,  except  as 
to  time  of  planting,  which  should  in  every  place  be,  on  the  eve  of 
the  first  brisk  spring  vegetation,  when  no  clanger  can  be  appre- 
hended from  subsequent  frosts  ;  and  where  this  can  be  done  in 
December,  January,  or  February,  with  safety,  so  much  the  better. 

Young  cauliflower  plants  raised  from  seed  sown  last  month, 
should  now  be  pricked  out  into  nursery -beds,  or  some  in  a  hot-bed, 
to  forward  them  for  final  transplanting.  See  page  176, 

Sowing  Cauliflower  Seed.     * 

Cauliflower  seed  may  be  sown  any  time  this  month,  in  the  open 
ground,  to  raise  plants  for  heading  in  October,  &c. 
For  the  further  treatment  of  cauliflowers,  see  May. 


308  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEK.  \.APRIL. 


Cabbages. 

As  early  in  this  month  as  possible,  plant  out  your  general  crops 
of  cabbage  plants,  observing  to  set  all  the  early  heading  kinds,  at 
the  distance  of  two  feet  and  a  half  every  way,  and  all  the  late  sorts, 
at  that  of  three  feet. 

As  to  soil  and  preparation,  the  nearer  you  approach  in  both,  to 
that  directed  for  cauliflowers,  the  larger  cabbages  you  will  have  ; 
but  where  they  are  desired  very  early,  you  must  adapt  the  soil  and 
situation  to  that  purpose. 

Some  of  the  cabbage  and  savoy  plants,  which  were  sown  in  March, 
for  a  succession  of  young  summer  and  autumn  cabbages,  and  a 
forward  autumn  crop  of  savoys,  should  be  thinned  out  and  pricked 
into  nursery-beds,  to  get  strength  before  they  are  planted  out  for 
good. 

Let  this  be  done  when  the  plants  have  leaves  one  or  two  inches 
broad  :  prepare  beds  of  good  earth  about  three  feet  and  a  half  wide, 
in  an  open  situation,  and  let  the  largest  plants  be  drawn  out  regu- 
larly from  the  seed-bed,  and  planted  in  those  prepared  for  them,  at 
four  or  five  inches  distance  every  way.  Water  them  immediately, 
and  repeat  it  occasionally,  in  dry  weather. 

The  smaller  plants  which  are  left  in  the  seed-beds,  should  be 
cleared  from  weeds  :  give  them  a  good  watering,  to  settle  the  earth 
about  their  roots,  loosened  in  drawing  out  the  others ;  they  will 
then  grow  strong,  and  in  two  or  three  weeks,  be  in  fine  order  for 
transplantation. 

Sowing  Cabbage  Seeds. 

Sow  now  a  general  assortment  of  cabbage  seeds,  such  as  early- 
York,  early  sugar-loaf,  and  early  Battersea,  to  succeed  those  sown 
in  March,  and  large  late  Battersea,  large  late  sugar-loaf,  flat  Dutch, 
drum-head,  large  English,  large  Scotch,  flat-sided,  and  Savoys,  for 
autumn  and  winter  use.  Sow  also,  the  seed  of  the  red  pickling 
cabbage,  to  succeed  those  sown  in  the  former  months.  The  earlier 
you  sow  all  these  kinds,  the  larger  and  better  cabbages  will  you 
have. 

Sow  these  seeds  tolerably  thin,  in  open  beds  or  borders,  and  keep 
them  free  from  weeds,  till  fit  for  planting  out ;  or  if  they  are  trans- 
planted into  other  beds,  when  about  four  inches  high,  it  will  greatly 
strengthen  them,  and  render  them  in  a  much  better  condition  for 
final  transplanting. 

Solving  Borecole^  or  Fringed  Cabbage. 

The  varieties  of  this  are  :  1,  Green  curled.  2.  Red  curled.  3. 
Thick-leaved  curled.  4.  Finely  fringed.  5.  Siberian,  or  Scotch 
Kale. 

For  the  garden,  these  may  be  treated  in  every  respect  as  winter 
cabbages  ;  they  are  extremely  hardy,  and  never  so  delicious,  as 
When  rendered  tender  by  smart  frosts  j  they  are  very  valuable 


APRIL.]  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  3Q9 

plants  to  cultivate,  particularly  in  the  more  southerly  states,  as  they 
will  there,  be  in  the  greatest  perfection  during  the  winter  months  ; 
they  will  also,  if  planted  in  a  gravelly  soil  and  in  a  sheltered  warm 
situation,  bear  the  winter's  of  the  middle  states,  and  may  be  kept 
in  great  perfection,  in  the  eastern  states,  if  managed  as  directed  in 
page  184,  which  see.  The  deliciousness  of  their  sprouts  in  spring, 
surpasses  every  thing  of  the  kind,  which  they  produce  in  great 
abundance.  The  seeds  of  either  sort  may  be  sown  any  time  this 
month,  and  treated  in  every  particular  as  directed  for  cabbages. 

The  green  and  red  Borecole,  is  also  a  very  useful  green  food  for 
sheep  ;  because,  it  is  not  only  hardy,  but  if  sown  in  time,  will  grow 
three  or  four  feet  high,  and  may  in  deep  snows  be  got  at  by  these 
animals,  who  frequently  suffer  much  for  want  of  food  in  such 
cases. 

Turnep.  Cabbage,  end  Tumefi-rooted  Cabbage. 

The  turnep  cabbage  produces  its  bulb  or  protuberance,  which 
approaches  to  roundness,  on  the  stem  above  ground,  immediately 
under  the  leaves.  It  is  eatable  when  young,  and  about  the  size 
of  a  tolerably  large  garden  turnep.  The  bulb  or  protuberance, 
must  be  stripped  of  its  thick  fibrous  rind,  and  then  it  may  be  treated 
and  used  as  a  turnep.  Some  of  their  bulbs  grow  to  twenty  three 
inches  in  circumference  and  weigh  upwards  of  twelve  pounds. 
The  seeds  may  now  be  sown  and  the  plants  afterwards  treated  as 
you  do  cabbage,  only  that  in  earthing  up  the  plants,  when  grown  to 
a  good  size,  you  must  be  cautious  not  to  cover  the  globular  part, 
which  is  to  be  eaten.  They  are  much  more  hardy  than  turneps, 
and  in  Europe  are  cultivated  for  the  feeding  of  cows  and  sheep,  as 
well  as  for  table  use ;  in  either  case  they  treat  them  as  they  do 
cabbages,  or  sow  them  like  turneps,  and  afterwards  hoe  them 
out  to  proper  distances. 

The  Turnep-rooted  cabbage,  has  an  oblong  thick  root  pretty 
much  of  the  form  of  the  winter  radish,  but  very  large  and  is  a 
valuable  article  to  cultivate  for  cattle  ;  as  it  produces,  with  proper 
care,  from  twenty-five  to  thirty  tons  per  acre.  It  is  extremely 
hardy,  and  very  seldom  injured  by  frost,  and  would  be  found  an 
excellent  sheep  food  in  April,  where  the  frosts  are  not  overlv  des« 
perate.  It  merits  attention  from  the  farmer  and  is  frequently  used 
for  culinary  purposes,  in  the  same  manner  as  the  Turnep-cabbage, 
The  tops  and  sprouts  make  delicious  greens  in  spring. 

Brussels'  Sprouts  and  Jerusalem  Kale, 

The  "Brussels'  sprouts  is  an  open  headed  cabbage,  grows  very 
high,  and  is  remarkable  for  producing  a  great  quantity  of  excellent 
sprouts  in  spring. 

The  Jerusalem  Kale,  is  one  of  the  most  hardy  plants  of  the  cab- 
bage tribe,  it  never  heads,  but,  the  leaves  after  being  pinched  by  a 
smart  frost,  make  most  delicious  greens,  and  boil  greener  than  any 
other  of  the  cabbage  kind  ;  it  bears  a  very  severe  winter,  and  affords 
a  grateful  supply,  when  most  other  plants  perish. 


310  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  [APRIL. 

Both  these  kinds  are  cultivated  in  the  same  manner  as  cabbages, 
their  seeds  may  now  be  sown  ;  but  let  it  be  observed,  that  they 
stand  the  winter  frosts  better,  when  planted  in  a  gravelly  soil,  than 
in  any  other. 

Broccoli. 

There  are  several  varieties  of  the  Broccoli,  which  are  all  but  late 
heading  varieties  of  the  cauliflower,  such  as  the  Roman  or  purple, 
the  Neapolitan  or  white,  the  green,  and  black  broccoli,  with  some 
others;  but  the  Roman  and  Neapolitan  are  in  most  estimation. 
The  seeds  should  be  sown  in  the  early  part  of  this  month,  if  not 
before,  and  afterwards,  when  of  clue  size,  pricked  out  in  beds  at  the 
distance  of  four  inches  apart,  and  watered;  there  to  remain  till  ar- 
rived of  sufficient  strength  for  planting  in  the  quarters,  where  intend- 
ed to  produce  their  flowers  or  heads. 

The  early  purple  broccoli,  if  sown  early  in  this  month  and  plant- 
ed as  you  do  cabbage,  in  good  rich  ground,  will  produce  fine  heads 
in  October  or  November,  very  little  inferior  to  cauliflowers,  and  by 
many  preferred  to  them  ;  the  white,  will  not  flower  so  early,  and  in 
the  middle  and  eastern  states,  must  be  taken  up  in  November  and 
managed  as  directed  in  that  month,  by  which,  a  supply  of  this  very 
delicious  vegetable,  may  be  had  in  great  perfection  during  all  the 
•winter  and  spring. 

In  such  of  the  southern  states,  as  their  winters  are  not  more  se- 
vere than  in  England,  they  will  stand  in  the  open  ground,  and  con- 
tinue to  produce  their  fine  flowers,  from  October  to  April.  In  the 
middle,  and  especially  in  the  eastern  states,  if  the  seeds  are  sown 
early  in  March,  on  a  hot-bed,  and  forwarded  as  is  done  with  cauli- 
flowers and  early  cabbage  plants,  and  planted  out  finally  in  April,  it 
would  be  the  most  certain  method  of  obtaining  large  and  early  flow- 
ers. All  these  kinds  produce  heads  exactly  like  the  cauliflower, 
only  that  some  are  of  a  purple  colour,  some  green,  some  black, 
and  the  white  kind,  so  exactly  resembles  the  true  cauliflower,  as  to 
be  scarcely  distinguished  therefrom,  either  in  colour  or  taste. 

If  any  plants  were  raised  in  the  preceding  months,  let  some  of 
them  be  pricked  out  now,  into  nursery  beds,  to  get  strength  for 
planting  out  finally. 

Peas. 

Continue  to  sow  successional  crops  of  peas,  every  ten  or  twelve 
clays,  as  directed  in  pages  126  and  178,  to  which  I  refer  you  for 
instructions. 

You  may  now  sow  the  dwarf-sugar  and  the  dwarf  Spanish-peas  ; 
they  are  both  plentiful  bearers,  and  do  not  require  to  be  rodded,  as 
they  never  rise  more  than  from  twelve  to  eighteen  inches  high. 
They  are  to  be  sown  in  drills  two  feet  asunder,  very  thin,  and  co- 
vered about  two  inches  deep. 

Leadman's  dwarf  pea,  is  perhaps  the  most  prolific  and  profitable 
cf  the  whole  family  ;  it  bears  most  abundantly,  and  is  very  delicious  ; 
it  rises  to  the  height  of  from  two  and  a  half,  to  three  feet  accord- 
ing to  the  soil,  and  may,  or  may  not  be  rodded,  but  if  having  some 
support,  the  produce  will  be  the  greater. 


APRIL.]  THE  KITCHFN-GARI>EN. 

The  tall  crooked  sugar  pea,  is  particularly  worthy  of  cultivation, 
and  should  now  be  sown  ;  its  green  pods  when  young,  are  boiled 
like  kidney-beans,  and  are  uncommonly  sweet  and  delicious  :  these 
grow  to  a  considerable  height,  and  require  rods,  from  seven  to 
eight  feet  high,  and  to  be  sown  in  drills,  at  least,  four  feet  asunder. 

If  you  sowed  no  peas  in  the  preceding  months,  the  early-frame, 
early  Golden,  and  Charleton  hotspur  kinds,  should  now  be  sown 
for  first  crops  ;  and  for  succession,  the  Glory  of  England,  Spanish 
morotto,  white,  green,  and  grey  rouncivals  ;  or  the  tall  marrowfat, 
Imperial,  sugar-poland,  and  blue  Prussian  kinds.  The  nine  last 
sorts,  should  be  planted  in  drills  at  the  distance  of  four  feet  at  least, 
and  be  rodded  or  sticked,  to  the  height  of  six  feet  or  more,  by  which 
you  may  expect  very  abundant  crops.  Rods  from  four  to  five  feet 
high,  will  answer  for  the  early  frame  and  hot-spur  kinds,  and  also, 
for  the  pearl-peas  and  Essex-reading,  all  of  which  are  very  prolific 
bearers.  For  the  other  varieties,  see  the  catalogue  of  garden  seeds, 
annexed  to  this  work. 

Draw  earth  to  such  rows  of  peas  as  are  up,  and  advanced  a  little 
in  height ;  which  will  strengthen  the  plants,  and  forward  them 
greatly  in  their  growth. 

This  earthing  should  always  be  performed,  for  the  first  time, 
when  the  plants  are  about  three  or  four  inches  high. 

Be  very  particular  to  rod  or  place  sticks,  to  such  rows  of  peas, 
as  have  attained  the  height  of  five  or  six  inches  ;  if  this  is  not  time- 
ly attended  to,  the  crops  will  be  greatly  injured  ;  for  peas  are  never 
so  productive  as  when  rodded,  before  they  begin  to  fall  to  either 
one  side  or  the  other.  For  the  method  of  doing  which,,  see  page 
179. 

Planting  and  Earthing  ufi  Beans* 

In  the  early  part  of  this  month,  you  may  plant  long-pod  and 
Windsor  beans,  with  every  other  variety  of  that  species.  These 
are  always  most  productive,  when  planted  early  ;  but  if  you  are  de- 
sirous of  a  succession  of  this  kind  of  bean,  as  long  as  possible,  your 
late  crops  must  be  of  the  early  Mazagan,  early  Lisbon,  or  greea 
Genoa  kinds,  but  more  particularly  the  latter  ;  as  it  bears  our  sum- 
mer heat,  better  than  any  of  the  whole  family.  For  particulars, 
see  page  179. 

Such  beans  as  are  advanced  in  growth,  to  the  height  of  four  or 
five  inches,  must  have  some  earth  drawn  up  to  their  stems,  which 
will  greatly  refresh  and  strengthen  them. 

Lettuces* 

Transplant  lettuces  of  every  kind  that  require  it,  where  they 
stand  too  close ;  both  those  of  the  winter  standing,  or  such  as  were 
sown  in  any  of  the  former  months,  and  are  now  grown  to  a  suffi- 
cient size. 

Choose  a  spot  of  good  ground  for  these  plants,  and  if  moderately 
dunged,  it  will  prove  beneficial  to  their  growth :  dig  the  ground 
evenly  one  spade  deep,  and  rake  the  surface  stnoothj  then  plant  tlie 


312  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  [APRIL. 

lettuces  about  ten  or  twelve  inches  distant  each  way  ;  water  them 
immediately,  and  repeat  it  occasionally  in  dry  weather,  till  they 
have  taken  good  root. 

For  the  method  of  planting,  the  kinds  most  deserving  of  cultiva- 
tion, and  other  particulars,  see  page  180. 

Continue  to  sow  a  variety  of  the  best  kinds  of  lettuce,  once  every 
two  weeks,  that  there  may  be  a  regular  succession.  Dig  a  spot  of 
rich  ground  for  them,  in  an  open  situation,  sow  the  seed  even,  not 
too  thick,  and  rake  them  in  lightly.  Scatter  a  few  seeds  among 
other  general  crops,  and  they  will  grow  large  and  fine. 

Small  Sallading. 

Sow  small  sallading,  generally,  about  once  every  week  or  fort- 
night; the  sorts  are  lettuce,  cresses,  mustard,  rape,  and  radish,  Sec. 

Dig  a  bed  of  light  mellow  earth  for  these  seeds,  arid  rake  the 
surface  fine.  Draw  some  flat  shallow  drills  ;  sow  the  seeds  there- 
in,, each  kind  separate,  and  cover  them  lightly  with  earth. 

Water  them  moderately  if  the  weather  should  be  dry,  which 
will  greatly  promote  their  growth. 

For  more  particulars  respecting  small  sallading,  see  pages  118 
and  183. 

Radishes. 

Thin  the  general  crops  of  radishes  where  they  have  arisen  too 
thick,  leaving  the  plants  about  two  or  three  inches  asunder,  and 
clear  them  from  weeds. 

Radish  seed,  both  of  the  short-topped,  salrnon-coloured,  and  white 
Naples  sorts,  should  be  sown  at  three  different  times  this  month  ; 
by  which  means  a  constant  supply  of  young  radishes  may  be  ob- 
tained, allowing  about  twelve  days  between  each  time  of  sowing  ; 
choosing  at  this  season  an  open  situation  for  the  seed  :  sow  it  even- 
ly on  the  surface,  cover,  or  rake  it  well  in,  and  the  plants  will  come 
up  in  a  few  days,  and  be  of  a  proper  size  for  drawing,  in  three  or 
four  weeks. 

The  crops  of  early  radishes,  in  general,  should  be  often  watered 
in  dry  weather  ;  this  will  promote  their  swelling  freely,  and  will 
prevent  their  growing  hot  and  sticky. 

Sow  a  thin  sprinkling  of  radish  seed,  among  other  low  growing- 
crops,  such  will  generally  be  found  very  good. 

Turnep-rooted  radishes,  of  both  the  white  and  red  kinds,  should 
now  be  sown,  and  treated  as  directed  in  page  181.  Thin  such  of 
them  as  were  sown  last  month,  to  two  or  three  inches  apart.  You 
may  likewise,  sow  some  of  the  white  Spanish  radishes  but  the  ge- 
neral time  for  sowing  that,  and  thc^black  winter  kind,  is  June,  July 
and  August. 

Stowing  Spinach. 

Continue  now  to  sow  seed  cf  the  round  leaved  Spinach,  every  ten 
or  twelve  days,  agreeably  to  the  directions  given  in  page  181, 
which  see.  Hoe  the  spinach  sowed  in  the  former  months,  and 
thin  the  plants,  to  three,  four,  or  five  inches  distance. 


APRIL.]  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  313 


Carrots  and  Parsneps. 

Carrots  may  now  be  sown  for  a  full  crop  ;  but  in  order  to  have 
tolerable  sized  roots  in  some  reasonable  time  in  summer,  let  the 
seed  be  sown  the  beginning  of  the  month. 

Where,  however,  a  supply  of  young  carrots  are  required,  it  is 
proper  to  perform  three  different  sowings  this  month  ;  the  first,  in 
the  beginning,  the  second,  about  the  middle,  and  the  third,  towards 
the  latter  end. 

Parsneps  may  also  be  sown  in  the  beginning  or  middle  of  this 
month  ;  but  if  later,  the  crop  will  not  succeed  well,  at  least  not  to 
have  large  swelling  roots  in  full  perfection. 

For  the  method  of  sowing  both  carrots  and  parsneps,  see  page 
182. 

Note.  There  are  several  varieties,  of  the  garden  carrot ;  differ- 
ing in  the  colour  of  their  roots  ;  such  as  the  orange,  white,  yellow, 
and  dark  red.  These  variations  may  be  continued,  by  taking  care 
not  to  mix  them  together  iu  the  same  garden.  There  is  another 
variety  called  the  horn-carrot,  differing  in  the  form  of  its  root,  the 
lower  part  terminating  in  a  round,  abrupt  manner,  and  not  tapering 
off  gradually,  like  the  others  ;  this  is  the  earliest  sort,  is  of  an 
orange  colour,  and  very  delicious  ;  and  should  always  be  sown  for 
a  first  crop.  The  long  orange  carrot,  is  the  best  for  a  principal 
crop.  They  all  delight  and  thrive,  in  a  deep,  rich,  sandy  loam. 

Celery. 

The  young  celery  plants,  arising  from  the  seed  sown  in  February 
or  March,  for  an  early  crop,  will  be  fit  to  prick  out  now,  some  in  the 
beginning,  and  others  towards  the  middle  or  latter  end  of  the 
month,  into  a  nursery-bed  of  rich  light  earth,  or  in  a  hot'bed,  to 
forward  them  still  more. 

Prepare  a  spot  of  ground,  form  it  into  three  or  four  feet  wide 
beds,  and  rake  the  surface  smooth  ;  then  thin  out  a  quantity  of  the 
best  plants  from  the  seed-bed,  and  plant  them  into  the  above,  at 
about  three  inches  distance  ;  or  you  may  prick  some  of  the  earliest 
into  a  moderate  hot-bed  to  forward  them  ;  give  a  gentle  watering, 
and  repeat  it  occasionally  till  the  plants  have  taken  fresh  root. 
They  should  remain  in  these  beds  a  month  or  five  weeks,  to  get 
strength  before  they  are  planted  out  finally  into  the  trenches. 

As  these  early-sown  plants,  after  they  become  fit  for  use,  will 
not  continue  loag  before  they  run  up  for  seed,  there  should  not  be 
more  of  them  raised  or  planted  out,  than  are  necessary  for  an  early 
supply. 

Sow  some  celery-seed  in  the  first  or  second  week  of  this  month, 
to  raise  plants  for  a  general  crop,  and  to  succeed  those  which  were 
sown  in  March. 

Dig  for  this  purpose,  a  bed  of  rich  light  earth,  and  make  the  sur- 
face even ;  sow  the  seed  thereon  tolerably  thick,  and  rake  it  in 
lightly  ;  in  dry  weather  give  frequent  moderate  waterings,  both  be- 

s  s 


314  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  [APRIL, 

fore  and  after  the  plants   come  up,  •which,  being   very  essential, 
should  not  be  omitted. 

The  best  kinds  to  sow,  are  the  solid,  and  red  stalked  celery,  both 
of  which  are  very  fine,  and  blanch  delightfully. 

Those  who  have  not  the  convenience  of  a  hot-bed,  to  raise  early 
plants,  and  wish  to  have  celery  as  soon  as  possible,  will  find  the 
following  method,  of  some  importance.  Make  choice  of  a  piece 
of  very  rich,  light  loam,  that  lies  well  to  the  sun  ;  give  it  a  good 
coat  of  manure,  and  dig  it  carefully  in,  one  spade  deep  at  least  ; 
then  at  the  distance  of  four  feet,  form  trenches,  north  and  south, 
about  ten  inches  deep,  eight  wide  at  bottom,  and  the  edges  sloping 
outward  regularly,  towards  the  center  of  the  ridges,  formed  by  the 
earth,  thrown  up,  the  better  to  admit  the  sun  to  the  seeds  and 
plants  ;  in  the  bottom  of  these  trenches,  lay  three  inches  of  -very  old 
horse  dung;  cast  over  this,  the  same  depth  of  earth,  and  with  your 
spade,  dig  and  incorporate  both  well  together  ;  cover  the  whole 
with  mould  previously  made  fine  with  the  rake,  and  draw  a  shallow 
drill  with  your  finger,  in  the  centre  of  each  trench,  not  more  than 
a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep  ;  in  which  sow  your  seed  very  thin,  and 
draw  the  earth  lightly  over  it,  just  to  cover  the  seed  and  no  more. 
This  should  be  done  as  early  in  this,  or  the  preceding  month,  as 
the  ground  can  be  got  to  work  freely. 

When  the  plants  are  up,  they  must  be  kept  free  from  weeds,  and 
when  grown  a  couple  of  inches,  thinned  to  the  distance  of  five  from 
one  another,  always  leaving  the  strongest  and  most  promising. 
When  about  eight  inches  high,  draw  to  their  roots  on  each  side, 
three  inches  deep  of  mould,  and  let  them  grow  on,  till  of  sufficient 
size,  to  earth  them  up  for  blanching;  then  they  are  to  be  earthed 
in  the  general  way.  Plants  thus  treated,  will  arrive  at  perfection 
three  weeks  earlier,  than  those  managed  in  the  common  method. 


The  forking,  dressing,  sowing,  and  planting  of  asparagus,  if  not 
done  last  month,  should  be  performed  the  first  week  in  this,  parti- 
cularly, the  forking  and  dressing  ;  for  the  shoots  will  be  advancing 
rapidly,  and  if  not  done  in  time,  they  will  be  greatly  injured,  either 
by  omitting  it  altogether,  or  performing  it,  at  an  untimely  season. 
New  plantations  ought  to  be  made,  in  the  early  part  of  the  month  ; 
the  seed  may  be  sown  at  any  time  therein,  but  the  earlier  the  bet- 
ter. For  the  methods  of  doing  the  whole,  see  pages  184,  185,  and 
186. 

Beet  Seed. 


Beets  of  every  kind  may  now  be  sown,  with  good  success.     For 
the  kinds,  and  methods  of  sowing  them,  see  page  187. 

Sowing  Onion  and  I*cck  Seeds. 

Onion  seed,  if  sown  in  the  first  week  of  this  month,  agreeably  to 
the  directions  given  in  page  187,  will  arrive  at  a  tolerable  size  for 


APRIL.]  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  315 

use,  the  same  season  ;  but  if  sown  for  the  purpose  of  raising  seed 
onions,  or  small  bulbs,  for  planting  next  year,  the  middle  of  the 
month  will  be  the  proper  time,  or  even  towards  the  latter  end. 
Seeds  for  the  latter  purpose,  should  be  sown  pretty  thick,  and  in 
poor  gravelly  ground ,-  otherwise,  they  will  grow  too  large,  or  run 
to  tops  and  not  bulb  well. 

You  may  now  sow  a  principal  crop  of  leeks,  either  in  drills,  or  as 
directed  for  onions  in  page  1S7  ;  if  in  drills,  they  may  be  landed,  as 
you  do  celery,  when  arrived  at  full  size ;  or  if  in  beds,  they  should 
be  transplanted,  in  June  or  July,  as  then  directed. 

Planting  Seed  Onions, 

All  your  seed  onions  ought  to  be  planted,  if  not  done  in  the  pre- 
ceding months,  as  early  in  this  as  possible ;  for  they  nevor  succeed 
so  well,  as  by  early  planting.  Seepage  189. 

Garlick^  Rocombole^  Shallots  and  Chives. 

These  useful  culinary  and  medicinal  plants,  if  not  attended  to  in 
the  former  months,  should  now  be  planted  as  early  as  possible, 
and  as  directed  in  page  190. 

Turnefis. 

You  may  sow  any  time  this  month,  a  full  summer  crop,  of  the 
early  Dutch,  early  stone,  or  early  green  turneps ;  they  will  suc- 
ceed very  well,  and  being  of  a  quick  growth,  will  arrive  at  good 
perfection,  before  they  are  overtaken  by  the  violent  summer  heats. 

Sow  the  seeds  in  open  quarters  or  beds,  after  the  ground  has 
been  well  dug  and  sufficiently  manured,  tolerably  thin,  and  as  even- 
ly as  possible  ;  if  the  ground  is  dry,  tread  down  the  seed  regularly, 
and  rake  it  in  with  a  light  and  even  hand. 

Hoe  and  thin  the  turneps,  which  were  sown  last  month,  leaving 
the  plants  six,  seven,  or  eight  inches  distant  from  each  other,  ac- 
cording to  the  richness  of  the  soil. 

Sahafy. 

Salsafy,  or  Tragc+iogon  fiorrifoliiim,  is  a  plant  by  some  highly 
valued,  for  its  white  eatable  root,  which  grows  a  foot  or  more  long, 
and  in  shape,  like  a  carrot  or  parsnep.  Some  have  carried  their 
fondness  for  it  so  far,  as  to  cull  it  a  vegetable  oyster.  Its  method 
of  cultivation,  &c.  you  will  find  in  page  190  :  the  seed  maybe  sown 
with  good  success,  any  time  this  month. 

Scorzonerciy  or  Vijier's-Grass. 

There  are  nineteen  species  of  scorzonera  described ;  but  the 
Scorzonera  hispanica.  is  that,  principally,  cultivated  in  gardens,  for 
its  roots  ;  which,  if  sown  in  this  month,  in  drills,  and  covered  about 


316  THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN.  [APRIL. 

half  an  inch  deep,  will  produce  fine  eatable  roots,  for  autumn  and 
winter  use;  they  are  boiled  and  eaten  like  carrots,  &c.  and  are 
greatly  esteemed  by  many.  When  the  plants  are  up,  they  must 
be^  thinned,  to  five  or  six  inches  apart,  and  be  kept  perfectly  free 
from  weeds.  They  may  also  be  sown  broad  cast,  in  three  or  four 
feet  wide  beds,  and,  when  up,  thin  them  to  six  or  seven  inches  dis- 
tance, every  way. 

Skirret. 

The  Slum  Sisanim^  or  skirret,  is  greatly  esteemed  as  a  garden 
vegetable,  its  root  is  composed  of  several  fleshy  tubers,  as  large  as  a 
man's  finger,  and  joining  together  at  top.  They  are  eaten  boiled,  and 
stewed  with  butter,  peper  and  salt ;  or  rolled  in  flour  and  fried  ;  or 
else  cold  with  oil  and  vinegar,  being  first  boiled.  They  have  much 
of  the  taste  and  flavour  of  a  parsnep,  but  a  great  deal  more  palat- 
able. 

This  plant  is  cultivated  two  ways,  first  by  seed,  and  second  by 
slips  from  the  roots  :  the  former  method  I  think  the  more  eligible, 
because  the  roots  which  are  raised  from  seeds,  generally  grow 
larger  than  those  raised  by  slips,  and  are  less  subject  to  be 
sticky. 

The  seeds  should  be  sown  the  latter  end  of  March,  or  in  the  be- 
ginning of  this  month,  either  broad-cast,  or  in  drills  ;  the  ground 
should  be  light  and  moist,  for  in  dry  land  the  roots  are  generally 
small,  unless  the  season  proves  wet. 

The  seeds  may  be  sown  broad-cast,  or  in  drills,  and  covered 
half  an  inch  deep ;  they  will  rise  in  five  or  six  weeks,  when  they 
must  be  carefully  wed,  and  thinned  to  the  distance  of  six  inches 
asunder.  In  autumn,  when  the  leaves  begin  to  decay,  the  roots 
will  be  fit  for  use,  and  continue  so,  till  they  begin  to  shoot  in  the 
spring.  They  may  be  taken  up  on  the  approach  of  winter,  and  pre- 
served like  carrots. 

To  propagate  this  plant  by  offsets,  dig  up  the  old  roots  in  spring, 
before  they  begin  to  shoot,  and  slip  off  the  side  shoots,  preserving 
an  eye  or  bud  to  each  :  plant  them  in  rows  one  foot  asunder,  and 
six  inches  distant  in  the  rows,  and  in  autumn,  they  will  be  fit  for 
use,  as  before.  Or,  you  may  separate  the  roots,  that  you  have  pre- 
served all  winter,  and  plant  them  in  the  same  manner. 

Solving  Common,  and  Large-rooted  or  Hamburg  Parsley. 

Sow  a  full  crop,  of  the  common,  and  curled  parsley  ;  and  also  of 
the  large  rooted  parsley,  as  directed  last  month,  in  page  191. 

Sea  Kale. 

If  you  have  yet  omitted  sowing  the  Crambe  maritima,  or  Sea 
Kale,  it  may  be  sown  the  beginning  of  this  month.  For  its  gene- 
ral culture  see  page  191,  Sec. 


APRIL.}  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN. 


Coriander  and  Chervil. 

Coriander  and  chervil,  may  yet  be  sown,  as  directed  in  page  191, 
which  see.  The  latter  particularly,  is  by  many,  esteemed  in  sal- 
lads  and  soups. 

Dressing,  Planting,  and  Solving  Artichokes. 

In  the  early  part  of  this  month,  if  omitted  in  the  last,  you  may 
give  a  spring  dressing  to  your  artichokes,  and  it  will  be  a  very  pro- 
per time  to  make  new  plantations,  of  that  delicious  vegetable,  or  to 
sow  the  seed  of  it.  For  full  instructions,  as  to  the  performance  of 
all  the  above,  see  pages  195,  196,  Sec. 

Cardoons  and  Alexanders. 

Cardoons  and  Alexanders  may  yet  be  sown,  as  directed  for  the 
former,  in  page  197,  and  for  the  latter,  in  page  198.  For  their  fur- 
ther culture,  see  June  and  July. 

Propagating  -various  Pot  and  Medicinal  Herbs. 

For  the  various  kinds,  of  pot  and  medicinal  herbs,  and  the  differ- 
ent methods  of  propagating  them,  either  of  which,  will  answer  ex- 
tremely well  in  this  month,  but  more  particularly  that  of  sowing 
the  seeds,  see  page  198,  Sec. 

Dill,  and  Azorian  Fennel. 

For  an  account  of,  and  the  method  of  propagating  Dill  and  Fino- 
chio,  or  Azorian  Fennel,  see  page  199. 

Horse  Radi&h. 

Horse-Radish  may  now  be  planted,  with  good  success,  but  the 
earlier  in  the  month  that  it  is  done,  the  better.  For  the  method 
of  propagating  it,  see  page  20 1 . 

Rhubarb. 

For  the  general  culture  of  rhubarb,  see  page  203.  The  seed,  if 
neglected  to  be  sown  in  the  former  months,  will  still  succeed,  by 
sowing  it  in  the  early  part  of  this  ;  but  the  plants  from  late  sow- 
ings particularly,  will  require  to  be  shaded,  when  up,  from  too  pow- 
erful sun-shine,  till  they  have  attained  strength. 

In  the  first  week  of  this  month,  it  may  be  successfully  propa- 
gated, by  offsets  from  the  root. 


318  THE  KITCHEN-GAftDEN.  [APRIL. 


Jerusalem.  Artichoke. 

Jerusalem  Artichokes  may  still  be  cultivated ;  as  directed  last 
month,  in  page  205. 

Potatoes. 

If  omitted  in  the  last  month,  plant  potatoes  in  the  beginning 
of  this,  as  directed  in  page  200. 

Nasturtium. 

The  Trojiceolum  majiis,  or  large  Nasturtium,  is  very  deserving  of 
cultivation,  as  well  on  account  of  the  beauty  of  its  large  and  nume- 
rous orange-coloured  flowers,  as  their  excellence  in  sallads,  and 
their  use  in  garnishing  dishes.  The  green  berries,  or  seeds,  of 
this  plant,  which  it  produces  abundantly,  make  one  of  the  nicest 
pickles  that  can  possibly  be  conceived  ;  in  the  estimation  of  many, 
they  are  superior  to  capers. 

There  are,  of  the  nasturtium,  a  major  and  minor  kind ;  the  for- 
mer, being  of  a  large  running  growth,  and  the  most  productive,  is 
the  proper  sort  for  the  above  purposes. 

A  drill  may  be  drawn  for  them,  as  practised  for  peas,  and  the 
seeds  dropped  therein,  at  the  distance  of  two  or  three  inches  from 
one  another,  and  covered  with  earth  near  an  inch  deep.  When  the 
plants  are  grown  about  six  inches,  they  should  have  sticks  placed 
to  them  to  run  upon.  Or  they  may  be  sown  near  hedges,  fences, 
or  pailings  of  any  kind,  on  which  they  can  climb,  and  have  support; 
for  they  will  always  be  more  productive  in  this  way,  than  when 
suffered  to  trail  on  the  ground. 

Liquorice. 

The  early  part  of  this  month,  is  a  very  good  season,  in  the 
middle  states,  for  planting  liquorice.  For  its  general  culture,  see 
page  201,  &c. 

Sowing  Okra. 

The  Hibiscus  esculenta^  or  Okra.  The  green  capsules  of  this 
plant,  is  an  admirable  ingredient  in  scups,  and  its  ripe  seeds,  if 
burned  and  ground  like  coffee,  can  scarcely  be  distinguished  there- 
from. Numbers  cultivate  it  for  that  purpose,  and  even  say,  that  it 
is  much  superior  to  foreign  coffee,  particularly,  as  it  does  not  affect 
the  nervous  system,  like  the  latter. 

Between  the  middle  or  latter  end  of  this  month,  is  a  proper  lime 
to  sow  the  seed,  in  the  middle  states ;  and  in  the  eastern  states,  the 
early  part  of  May  ;  or  generally,  it  may  be  sown,  with  certainty 
of  success,  at  the  time  that  Indian  corn  is  planted.  Draw  drills 
about  an  inch  deep,  and  four  feet  asunder,  into  which,  drop  the 
seeds  at  the  distance  of  eight  inches  from  one  another,  or  rather, 
drop  f.vo  or  three  in  each  place,  lest  the  one  should  not  grow,  and 
cover  them  near  an  mcb  in  depth*  As  they  advance  in  growth,  earth 


APRIL,]  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEX.  319 

them  up,  two  or  three  times,  as  you  do  peas,  and  they  will  produce 
abundantly.  Some  plant  or  sow  them  much  thinner,  in  the  rows  ; 
but  by  the  above  method,  you  will  have,  more  in  quantity,  and  as 
good  in  quality. 

Capsicums  or  Red-Peppers. 

Sow  capsicums,  towards  the  end  of  this  month,  on  a  warm  bor- 
der, to  produce  plants,  for  planting  out  towards  the  latter  end  of 
May,  or  beginning  of  June ;  the  large  heart-shaped  capsicum,  is 
in  the  greatest  estimation  for  pickling,  but  the  small  upright  kinds, 
are  the  strongest  for  pepper :  if  they  are  desired  at  an  early  sea- 
son, sow  them  on  a  slight  hot-hed,  the  beginning  of  this  month,  and 
with  due  care  they  will  be  fit  to  transplant,  where  they  are  to  re- 
main, towards  the  middle  of  May.  In  the  eastern  states,  the  tenth 
of  May  will  be  soon  enough  to  sow  them,  in  the  open  ground,  but 
in  the  southern  states,  they  may  be  sown  any  time  this  month. 

Tomato's  or  Love-apples. 

The  Solanum  Lycopcrsicum^  Tomato,  or  Love-apple,  is  much  cul- 
tivated for  its  fruit,  in  soups  and  sauces,  to  which  it  imparts  an 
agreeable  acid  flavour ;  and  is  also  stewed  and  dressed  in  various 
ways,  and  very  much  admired. 

The  seeds  may,  towards  the  latter  end  of  this  month,  be  sown 
on  a  warm  border,  pretty  thick,  and  about  the  end  of  May  will  be 
fit  to  plant  out ;  or  they  may  be  sown  where  intended  to  remain  for 
fruiting.  They  will  require  such  support  as  directed  for  Nastur- 
tiums, in  page  3 18,  and  must  be  planted  in  rows,  five  feet  asundtr, 
and  a  foot  or  fourteen  inches  distant,  plant  from  plant,  as  they  run 
greatly.  Some  lay  various  lands  of  old  branches  in  their  way,  for 
them  to  run  upon  ;  however,  the  better  they  are  supported,  the 
more  numerous  will  their  fruit  be. 

This  fruit  may  be  had  much  earlier,  by  sowing  the  seeds,  in 
the  first  week  of  this  month,  if  not  done  in  March,  on  a  slight  hot- 
bed, and  forwarding  them  in  that  way  ;  they  bear  transplanting 
well,  and  may  be  set  out  finally  about  the  middle  of  May. 

Egg-Plane. 

The  Solanum  Melongena^  or  Egg-plant.  There  are  two  varieties 
of  this  plant,  the  white  fruited  and  purple,  cultivated  for  culinary 
purposes ;  the  latter  kind  is  preferable,  and  when  sliced  and  nicely 
fried,  approaches,  both  in  taste  and  flavour,  nearer  to  that  of  a  very 
nice  fried  oyster,  than,  perhaps,  any  other  plant. 

This  delicious  vegetable  may  be  propagated,  by  sowing  the  seed, 
on  a  slight  hot-bed,  the  beginning  of  this  month,  or  in  March  ;  and 
towards  the  middle  or  latter  part  of  May,  they  should  be  planted 
in  a  rich  warm  piece  of  ground,  at  the  distance  of  two  feet  and  a 
half  asunder,  every  way,  for  the  purple,  or  two  feet,  for  the  white 
kind  ;  and  if  kept  clean,  and  a  little  earth  drawn  up  to  their  stems, 


320  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  [APRIL. 

-when  about  a  foot  high,  they  will  produce  plenty  of  fruit.  Or,  the 
seed  may  be  sown  about  the  end  of  this  month,  on  a  warm  border, 
and  planted  out  finally,  in  the  beginning  of  June  ;  but  these  will  be 
rather  late,  and  not  produce  fruit  so  abundantly,  in  the  middle  or 
eastern  states,  as  by  the  former  method.  If  any  were  sown  last 
month,  let  them  be  pricked  out  into  a  fresh  hot-bed,  the  middle  of 
this,  at  the  distance  of  four  or  five  inches,  to  gather  strength,  and 
prepare  them  for  planting  out,  about  the  fifteenth  or  twentieth  of 
May. 

Solving  Cucumber  ^  Squashes^  Musk  and  Water  Melons. 

In  the  middle  states  where  the  ground  is  light,  dry,  and  warm, 
you  may  in  the  last  week  of  this  month  sow  cucumbers,  squashes, 
water-melons,  and  early  musk-melons  in  the  open  ground,  agreea- 
bly to  the  directions  given  next  month.  If  the  weather  proves  fa- 
vourable, and  that  they  are  not  attacked  by  frost  after  being  up, 
they  will  succeed  very  well ;  but  if  you  have  hand  or  bell  glasses  for 
their  protection,  there  is  no  doubt  of  their  success. 

It  is  generally  observed,  that  cucumbers,  squashes,  and  melons 
of  every  kind,  may  be  sown  in  the  open  ground,  as  early  as  Indian 
corn ;  but  they  are  certainly  somewhat  more  tender,  and  cannot  be 
sown  in  the  middle  states,  with  great  certainty  of  success,  before 
the  eighth  of  May. 

Kidney -Beans. 

Towards  the  latter  end  of  this  month,  you  may  plant  a  first  crop 
of  Kidney -beans,  in  the  open  ground.  Select  a  warm,  dry,  and 
favourably  situated  spot,  and  having  dug  and  manured  it  properly  ; 
draw  drills  an  inch  deep,  and  two  feet  or  thirty  inches  asunder,  drop 
the  beans  therein,  two  inches  apart,  and  draw  the  earth  equally  over 
them  ;  do  not  cover  them  more  than  an  inch  deep  ;  for,  at  this  early 
time,  they  are  liable  to  rot,  if  cold  or  wet  ensue.  The  kinds  pro- 
per to  be  sown  now,  are  the  early  cream-coloured,  speckled,  yellow, 
and  white  dwarfs. 

Endive. 

Those  who  are  fond  of  endive,  as  a  sallad,  may  now  sow  some  of 
the  seed,  as  directed  in  June  ;  and  blanch  it,  when  of  sufficient  size, 
in  the  manner  prescribed  in  August.  But  in  the  early  summer 
months,  lattuce  has  almost  generally  superceded  the  use  of  it. 

Sorrel. 

Sow  now  a  sufficient  supply  of  the  broad-leaved,  garden  sorrel, 
and  also,  of  the  round-leaved  or  French  sorrel ;  these,  or  either  of 
them,  may  be  sown,  on  narrow  beds  or  borders,  and  covered  lightly, 
or  raked  in  ;  when  the  plants  are  up  keep  them  free  from  weeds, 
and  in  June,  you  may  transplant  them,  either  in  rows  along  the 
borders,  or  into  three  or  four  feet  wide  beds,  at  the  distance  of  nine 
inches,  plant  from  plant,  every  way. 


APRIL.]  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  321 


Garden  Or  ache. 

The  ^triplex  hortensis^  or  Garden  Orache,  is  cultivated  for  culi- 
nary purposes,  being  used  as  spinach,  and  is  by  some  persons  pre- 
ferred to  it.  The  French  particularly,  are  very  partial  to  this  plant. 
There  are  three  or  four  varieties  of  it,  differing  only  in  colour ; 
one  is  of  a  deep  green,  another  of  a  dark  purple,  and  a  third  with 
green  leaves  and  purple  borders.  The  green  leaved  variety,  how- 
ever, is  that  cultivated,  as  an  esculent  herb,  and  is  sown  at  the  same 
time,  and  treated  in  every  respect  like  spinach. 

Caraway* 

The  Carum  Carui,  or  common  caraway,  is  a  biennial  plant : 
it  produces  its  seed,  which  is  highly  aromatic  and  grateful  to  the 
stomach,  the  second  year  after  sowing,  and  then  generally  dies. 
It  may  now  be  sown  on  a  bed,  either  broad-cast  and  raked  in,  or  in. 
drills,  and  covered  half  an  inch  deep  ;  when  up,  thin  the  plants  to  six 
inches  distance,  and  in  the  June  twelve  months  following,  it  will 
produce  its  seed.  Some  of  the  plants  that  have  not  seeded  abun- 
dantly, will  continue  to  bear,  the  second  season.  Young  plants, 
rise  in  abundance,  where  the  seeds  fall  when  ripe,  and  these  will 
shoot  and  produce  seed  the  following  summer. 

Destroy   Weeds. 

Weeds  will  now  begin  to  appear  plentifully,  from  seed,  in  every 
part  of  the  garden.  The  utmost  diligence  should  be  used  to  de- 
stroy them,  while  they  are  young,  before  they  get  the  start  of  the 
crops  ;  especially  towards  the  middle  and  latter  end  of  the  month  ; 
when,  if  a  forward  season,  they,  will  be  advancing  in  a  rapid  growth. 

Pay  particular  regard,  at  this  time,  to  your  small  crops ;  as 
onions,  carrots  parsneps,  and  the  like ;  weeds  grow  much  quicker 
than  they  do  ;  and  if  they  are  not  wed  in  time,  either  by  small  hoe- 
ing, or  hand-weeding,  such  will  occasion  much  labour  and  trouble 
to  clear  them,  and  sometimes,  totally,  destroy  the  crops. 

Take  the  opportunity  of  dry  weather,  and  hoe  the  ground  be- 
tween the  rows  of  beans,  peas,  cabbages,  cauliflowers',  and  other 
crops  that  stand  wide,  to  destroy  the  weeds. 

A  large  piece  of  ground  may  soon  be  gone  over  with  a  hoe, 
when  the  weeds  are  small ;  but  when  they  are  permitted  to  grow 
large,  it  requires  double  labour  to  destroy  them. 

Madder. 

The  Rubia  tinctorum^  or  dyer's  madder,  being  an  article  of  much 
importance  in  manufactures,  Sec.  ought  to  command  some  atten- 
tion, in  the  United  States  ;  where  it  will  grow,  to  as  good  perfec- 
tion, as  in  any  country  on  earth.  It  is  not  wise,  in  a  nation,  to  be 
under  the  necessity  of  importing  articles,  of  considerable  consump- 

T  t 


322  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN. 

tion,  that  might  be  cultivated  at  home,  to  great  advantage  ;  and  al- 
though, it  does  not  immediately,  come  "within  the  province  of  the 
gardener,  I  cannot  let  slip  the  opportunity,  of  giving  the  best  infor- 
mation in  my  power,  for  bringing  it  to  perfection. 

The  plant  has  a  perennial  root,  and  an  annual  stalk.  The  root 
is  composed  of  many  long  thick  succulent  fibres  ;  these  are  joined 
at  the  top  in  a  head,  like  the  roots  of  asparagus,  and  strike  very 
deep  into  the  ground,  being  sometimes  more  than  three  feet  in 
length.  From  the  upper  part,  or  head  of  the  root,  come  out.  many 
side  roots,  which  extend  just  under  the  surface  of  the  ground,  to  a 
great  distance,  whereby  it  propagates  very  fast;  for  these  send  up 
a  great  number  of  shoots,  which  if  carefully  taken  off  in  spring, 
soon  a^ter  they  are  above  ground,  and  managed  as  hereafter  direct- 
ed, they  become  so  many  plants.  These  roots  are  of  a  dark  colour 
on  their  out-side,  and  have  a  yellowish  red  pith  in  the  middle,  which 
is  tough  and'  of  a  bitterish  taste  ;  from  the  root  arises  many  large, 
four-cornered,  jointed  stalks,  which  in  good  land,  will  grow  five  or 
six  feet  high,  and  if  supported,  sometimes  seven  or  eight ;  they 
are  armed  with  short  herbaceous  prickles,  and  at  each  joint,  are 
placed  five  or  six  spear-shaped  leaves,  about  three  inches  long,  and 
near  one  broad,  in  the  middle,  drawing  to  a  point  at  each  end  ;  their 
upper  surfaces  are  smooth,  but  their  mid-ribs,  on  the  under  side, 
are  armed  with  rough  herbaceous  spines ;  the  leaves  set  close  to 
the  branches  in  whorls.  From  the  joints  of  the  stalk  come  out  the 
branches,  which  sustain  the  flowers ;  they  are  placed  by  pairs  op- 
posite, each  pair  crossing  the  other;  these  have  few  but  small 
leaves  towards  the  bottom,  which  are  generally  by  threes,  and 
upwards  by  pairs  opposite  ;  the  branches  are  terminated,  by  branch- 
ing spikes  of  campanulate  yellow  flowers,  which  are  cut  into  four 
segments.  These  appear  in  June,  and  are  followed  by  round- 
ish, dark  coloured  seeds,  compressed  and  indented  on  the  side, 
•where  joined  to  the  pedicle,  or  partial  flower-stalk,  and  are  about 
the  size  of  asparagus  seed. 

I  am  the  more  particular  in  the  description,  as  there  are  seven 
different  species  of  Rubia  or  madder  ;  lest  the  wrong  kind  should 
be  cultivated,  and  produce  a  discouraging  disappointment,  to  the 
industrious  and  deserving  cultivator. 

It  is  well  known  that  Madder  is  so  essential  to  dyers  and  callico- 
printers,  that  neither  business  can  be  carried  on  without  it.  The 
consumption  of  it  is  so  great  in  England,  that,  upon  a  moderate 
computation,  more  than  one  hundred  and  eighty  thousand  pounds 
sterling,  is  annually  paid  for  what  is  imported  from  Holland,  exclusive 
of  their  supplies  from  other  parts ;  and  as  in  a  little  time,  manufactures 
of  these  kinds,  must  of  necessity,  progress  in  America,  the  sooner 
some  attention  is  paid  to  this  article,  the  better.  The  profits  aris- 
ing from  its  culture,  would  at  present,  be  very  considerable,  perhaps 
more  so,  than  when  more  generally  attended  to. 

The  land  best  adapted  for  the  culture  of  Madder,  is  a  deep,  loamy 
substantial  soil,  not  too  stiff  and  heavy,  nor  overly  light  and  sandy  ; 
this  should  be  twice  ploughed  in  autumn,  and  left  rough  during  winter, 
that  the  frost  may  mellow  und  pulverize  it ;  then  ploughed  again-  in 


APRIL.]  THE  KITCHFN-GARDEN.  533 

Apriljimmediately  before  planting,  taking  care  every  time,  to  plough 
it  as  deep  as  possible. 

The  time  of  planting  is  about  the  latter  end  of  April,  or  immedi- 
ately when  the  young  buds  begin  to  appear  above  ground,  or  as 
soon  as  possible  after.  The  young  shoots  are  then  taken  from  the 
sides  of  the  mother  plants,  with  as  much  root  as  possible,  and  are 
planted  in  rows  thre  feet  asunder,  and,  plant  from  plant,  in  the  rows 
twelve  inches  distant ;  observing  to  plant  each  slip  down  to  its  top  or 
crown. 

In  the  first  year  of  planting  madder,  it  is  customary  to  plant  kid- 
ney-beans, lettuces,  or  other  low  dwarf-growing  crops,  between  the 
rows  ;  but  it  is  absolutely  necessary,  to  keep  the  ground  clean  from 
weeds.  In  November  the  haulm  t>eing  decayed,  cut  it  off,  and  then 
draw  three  or  four  inches  of  earth  over  the  crowns  of  the  plants  ; 
this  may  be  performed  either  with  the  plough  or  hoe,  and  let  them 
remain  so  all  winter. 

The  second  year  in  the  beginning  of  April,  the  earth  on  the  top 
of  the  rows  should  be  scuffled  over  and  raked,  to  destroy  the  young 
weeds,  and  make  the  surface  smooth  and  mellow  ;  as  well,  as  to 
permit  the  rising  buds  to  shoot  freely. 

The  second  summer,  the  same  care  must  be  taken  of  the  mad- 
der as  the  first,  and  nothing  planted  between  the  rows  ;  and  in  No- 
vember, the  crowns  of  the  roots  are  to  be  covered  as  in  the  pre- 
ceding year.  Some  lay  down  the  haulm,  and  cover  it  with  earth, 
for  the  greater  protection  of  the  roots  ;  but  this  is  a  very  pernicious 
practice,  for  it,  in  a  little  time,  becomes  mouldy,  and  seldom  fails 
to  communicate  this,  to  the  crowns,  which  materially  injures  them, 
and,  consequently,  the  whole  roots. 

The  madder  roots  should  never  be  taken  up,  till  they  have  had, 
three  summer's  growth ;  and  the  culture  of  the  third,  is  the  same 
as  of  the  second  year,  during  the  spring,  summer,  and  autumn. 

In  the  September,  or  October  of  the  third  year,  when  the  haulm 
is  perfectly  decayed,  the  roots  are  carefully  taktui  up,  and  dried, 
first  for  a  few  days  in  the  air  ;  they  are  afterwards  put  on  a  kiln, 
and  dried  effectually,  with  a  slow  heat ;  after  which,  it  is  pounded 
by  stampers,  kept  in  motion  by  a  mill  or  wheel,  which  is  turned, 
by  either  water,  wind,  or  horses,  then  sifted  and  packed  up  in 
casks,  as  hard  as  possible. 

Madder  may  be  cultivated  from  seeds  by  sowing  them  in  rows, 
as  directed  for  the  plants  ;  observing  to  sow  three  or  four  seeds, 
where  a  plant  might  be  expected,  and  cover  them  a  little  better 
than  half  an  inch  deep  :  when  grown  an  inch  or  two,  pull  out  the 
weakest,  and  leave  the  best  to  remain,  at  proper  distances,  for  full 
growth. 

Those  who  are  desirous  of  further  information,  on  this  subject, 
may  consult  MARTYN'S  edition  of  Miller's  Gardener's  Dictionary. 
I 

Fuller's  Teasel. 

The  JDifisacus  fallonum,  or  Fuller's  Teasel,  is  cultivated  in  great 
•quantities  in  the  west  of  England,  for  raising  the  nap  on  woolen 


324  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  [APRIL. 

cloths,  by  means  of  the  crooked  awns  upon  the  heads  ;  which  in  the 
wild  sort,  are  not  cufficiently  hooked.  For  this  purpose  they  are 
fixed  round  the  circumference  of  a  large  broad  wheel,  which  is 
made  to  turn  round,  and  ihe  cloth  is  held  against  them.  The  heads 
are  collected  in  August,  as  soon  as  they  begin  to  turn  brown,  and 
exposed  daily  to  the  sun,  till  they  become  perfectly  dry  ;  care  being 
taken  to  protect  them  from  rain. 

This  plant  is  propagated  by  sowing  the  seed,  either  in  March  or 
April,  upon  a  soil  that  has  been  well  ploughed,  and  it  is  observed, 
that  good  wheat  land,  is  well  adapted  for  the  production  of  Teasels. 
The  ground  being  ploughed  and  made  fine,  from  one  peck  to  two  of 
seed,  is  generally  sown  upon  an  acre,  and  harrowed  in,  with  a  light 
harrow.  When  the  plants  are  up,  hoe  them  in  the  same  manner, 
as  practised  for  turneps,  cutting  down  all  the  weeds  and  singling 
out  the  plants,  to  about  six  or  eight  inches  distance :  as  they 
advance,  and  the  weeds  begin  to  grow  again,  hoe  them  a  second 
time,  cutting  out  the  plants  to  about  a  foot  asunder.  Keep  them 
free  from  weeds  during  the  summer  and  autumn,  and  the  second 
year  after  sowing,  the  plants  will  shoot  up  stalks  with  heads,  which 
will  be  fit  for  collecting,  about  the  time  before  mentioned  ;  observ- 
ing, that  they  are  to  be  collected  as  they  turn  brown  and  ripen,  and 
not  all  at  once. 

They  may  also,  be  cultivated  by  sowing  the  seeds,  in  April,  in  a 
seed-bed  pretty  thick,  where  they  are  to  be  kept  free  from  weeds, 
and  in  the  September  or  March  following,  planted  into  the  ploughed 
field,  being  previously  well  harrowed  and  prepared  ;  where  they  are 
to  be  set  regularly  in  lines,  at  about  a  foot  asunder  every  way. 
Soon  after,  they  will  shoot  up,  and,  the  autumn  following,  produce 
their  heads.  This  article  is  indispensible,  where  manufactories  of 
cloth  are  carried  on. 

Wood,   Weld,  or  Dyer's    Weed. 

The  Res s da  Luteola,  or  Dyer's- weed,  is  used  for  dying  all  sorts 
of  bright  yellows,  and  lemon  colours  ;  and  is  a  profitable  article  to 
cultivate  for  the  use  of  dyers.  Its  favourite  soil  is  a  tolerably  rich, 
sandy  ground,  where  it  will  grow  to  great  perfection.  The  seed 
should  be  sown  in  April,  at  the  rate  of  two  quarts  to  an  acre  ;  when 
the  plants  are  up,  they  must  be  set  out  with  the  hoe,  like  turneps, 
to  the  distance  of  six  inches,  plant  from  plant,  and  kept  free  from 
weeds  during  the  season.  The  May  following  they  will  shoot,  and, 
if  the  soil  be  good,  grow  three  feet  high,  and  in  June,  when  in  full 
flower,  the  plants  are  to  be  pulled  up,  and  set  in  small  handfuls  to  dry 
in  the  field :  when  dry  enough,  they  may  be  tied  in  bundles  and 
housed,  being  careful  to  put  them  up  loosely,  that  the  air  may  pass 
between,  to  prevent  fermentation.  A  small  patch  may  be  left  for 
seed,  which  is  not  to  be  pulled  up,  till  perfectly  ripe.  Some  people 
sow  weld,  with  oats,  and  barley,  as  they  do  clover  seed  ;  and  after 
these  crops  are  off,  weed  them  as  well  as  possible,  suffering  no  cat- 
tle to  enter  the  field,  till  the  June  twelve  months  after  so\ving, 
when  the  weld  is  pulled  and  dried  as  before^ 


APRIL.]  325 


THE*  FRUIT  GARDEN. 


Planting  Fruit  Trees. 

SUCH  fruit-trees  as  are  not  yet  burst  into  leaf,  may  be  trans- 
planted in  the  early  part  of  the  month  ;  but  any  that  are  either  in 
leaf  or  flower,  will  suffer  considerably  by  such  unseasonable  remo- 
val. However,  when  late  planting,  is  from  some  cause  unavoidable, 
and  having  a  previous  knowledge  thereof;  it  would,  in  that  case, 
be  highly  proper  to  take  up  the  trees,  some  time  before,  to  check 
their  shooting,  and  lay  them  by  the  roots  in  a  trench  of  earth,  till 
they  can  be  planted. 

Where  such  planting  is  intended,  in  the  middle  states,  let  it  be 
clone  in  the  first  week  in  the  month,  but  in  the  eastern  states,  it 
may  be  continued  to  the  second  ;  particularly,  with  apples,  pears, 
and  plums,  and  even  many  other  kinds,  should  the  season  prove  late. 

After  planting,  give  each  tree  a  plentiful  watering,  which  will 
cause  the  earth  to  settle  close  about  its  roots,  and  prepare  them  for 
pushing  fresh  fibres :  repeat  it,  once  every  week  or  ten  days,  till 
the  new  roots  are  established.  For  the  method  of  planting,  see  the 
fjruit-Garden,  and  Orchard  in  March. 

New  planted  trees  in  general,  but  particularly  such  as  are  planted 
late  in  the  spring,  should  be  frequently  watered  in  dry  weather; 
once  a  week  or  ten  days,  will  be  sufficient.  In  doing  this,  give 
a  copious  watering  to  reach  the  roots  effectually :  and  let  their 
heads  be  sometimes  watered  as  well  as  their  roots. 

To  preserve  the  earth  moist  about  the  roots  of  new  planted  trees, 
let  some  mulch  or  half  rotted  litter,  be  spread  on  the  surface  of  the 
ground  ;  this  will  keep  out  the  effects  of  sun  and  wind,  and  the  earth 
will  retain  a  due  moisture,  with  the  assistance  of  a  moderate  water-, 
ing  now  and  then. 

Destroy  insects  on  Fruit  Trees. 

Insects  often  do  much  damage  to  fruit  trees,  if  not  prevented. 
This  is  the  time  they  begin  to  breed  on  the  buds,  leaves,  and  new 
advancing  shoots  of  young  trees,  and  also  frequently  on  those  of 
older  growth.  Proper  means  should  be  used  to  destroy  them  in 
time,  before  they  spread  over  the  general  branches. 

Where  you  perceive  any  of  the  leaves  of  these  trees  to  have  a 
crumpled,  deformed,  clammy  appearance,  &c.  it  is  a  certain  sign  of 
insects.  Let  the  worst  of  these  leaves  be  taken  off  as  soon  as  they 
appear  :  and  if  the  ends  of  any  of  the  young  shoots  are  also  attack- 
ed, prune  away  such  infected  parts  :  and  if  furnished  with  a  garden 
watering  engine,  it  would  be  greatly  serviceable  therewith  to  dash 
the  branches  with  water  in  dry  weather ;  which,  and  the  above 
precautions,  if  proceeded  to  in  time,  will  do  a  great  deal  in  pre- 
venting the  mischief  from  spreading  considerably. 


326  THE  FRUIT-GARDEN.  [APRIL. 

Or  where  wall  trees  are  much  infested,  first  pull  off  all  the  curled 
or  crumpled  leaves  ;  then  get  some  tobacco-dust,  or  fine  snuff,  and 
scatier  some  of  it  over  aK  the  branches,  but  most  on  those  places 
where  the  insects  are  troublesome.  This  should  be  strewed  over 
the  trees  in  the  morning,  when  the  twigs  and  leaves  are  wet,  and 
let  it  remain.  It  will  greatly  diminish  the  vermin,  and  not  injure 
the  leaves  or  fruit. 

But  fruit  trees  are  also  sometimes  attacked  by  insects  of  the  cater- 
pillar tribe,  contained  numerously  in  a  minute  embryo  state  in  small 
webs,  deposited  on  the  branches,  Sec.  animated  by  the  heat  of  the 
weather,  they  soon  over-run  and  devour  the  young  leaves,  whereby 
neither  the  trees  nor  fruit  prosper  in  growth  ;  and  which  should  be 
attended  to,  especially  in  young  trees,  by  picking  off  the  webs,  Sec. 
before  the  insects  animate  considerably  ;  and,  if  accommodated  with 
a  watering  engine,  as  above  suggested,  you  might  play  the  water 
strongly  upon  the  trees ;  so  as,  in  the  whole,  to  diminish  the  in- 
crease and  spreading"depredations  of  the  vermin,  as  much  as  pos- 
sible. 

Pruning. 

Pruning  of  all  kinds  of  fruit  trees,  should  be  finished,  in  the  first 
week  of  this  month,  if  neglected  so  long,  especially,  the  forward 
blossoming  kinds.  See  page  206. 

Protecting  the  blossoms,  &c.  of  Wall-Trees  from  Frost. 

Your  early  kinds  of  fruit-trees,  particularly  those  planted  against 
walls,  may  in  forward  seasons,  require  protection  for  their  blossoms 
and  young  setting  fruic,  from  night  frosts  ;  the  doing  of  which,  will 
be  found  of  importance.  For  the  method,  see  page  212. 

Where  the  sheltering  of  these  trees  is  practised,  it  should  be 
continued  occasionally  all  this  month  ;  for  although  there  are  ge- 
nerally, some  fine  warm  days  and  nights,  yet  the  weather  is  so  very 
uncertain  at  this  season,  that  we  often  have  such  severe  hard  frosts, 
as  to  prove  the  destruction  of  the  blossoms  and  young  fruit,  on  such 
of  the  above  trees,  as  are  very  forward  and  fully  exposed. 

They  may  be  protected  with  mats  every  cold  night,  and  taken 
down  in  the  morning  :  if  cuttings  of  evergreens  are  used,  as  ad- 
vised last  month,  let  them  remain  constantly,  till  the  fruit  are  past 
danger. 

General  Sjiring  treatment  of  Fruit-Trees, 

For  the  general  spring  management  of  Fruit-trees,  see  the  Fruit- 
Garden  and  Orchard  last  month. 

Grafting, 

For  the  various  methods  of  grafting,  Sec.  see  the  Nursery  for  last 
month,  and  also  for  this. 


APRIL.}  THE  ORCHARD.  327 


Raspberries. 

New  plantations  of  raspberries  may  be  made  in  the  first  week  of 
this  mouth,  but  it  would  have  been  much  better,  if  that  business  had 
been  performed  in  the  last,  except  in  the  eastern  states  ;  where  it 
may  now  be  done,  with  good  success,  as  directed  in  page  214,  which 
see. 

Strawberry  JSeds. 

Strawberry  beds  should  now  be  kept  perfectly  free  from  weeds. 
The  runners  produced  from  the  plants  should  be  constantly  cleared 
away  as  they  advance.  But  where  new  plantations  are  wanted,  let 
some  of  the  strongest  remain  till  June,  to  form  young  plants,  then 
to  be  transplanted,  as  directed  in  that  month. 

Water  the  beds  of  fruiting  plants  frequently,  in  dry  weather, 
when  they  begin  to  advance  for  bloom  ;  for,  if  they  are  not  supplied 
with  that  article,  in  a  dry  time,  the  fruit  will  be  smaller,  and  of  less 
abundant  production  ;  observing,  to  give  the  water  between  the 
plants,  and  not  over  them.  New  plantations  may  be  made,  in  the 
first  week  of  this  month.  For  the  method,  see  page  215. 

Early  Fruits  in  forcing. 

Let  the  same  care  be  taken  of  the  early  fruits  of  all  kinds  now  in 
forcing,  as  directed  last  month  and  February  ;  but  be  very  particular 
to  give  air  in  proportion,  to  the  increasing  heat  of  the  weather. 


THE  ORCHARD. 

THE  Orchard  had  been  so  fully  treated  of  in  the  last  month,, 
beginning  at  page  2 16,  as  well  as  in  January  and  February,  that 
there  is  little  to  be  said,  respecting  it,  in  this  ;  except  to  advise  the 
completion  of  all  that  was  directed  to  be  done,  in  the  former,  as 
early  in  this,  as  possible.  Late  planting  of  deciduous  trees,  whe- 
ther fruit  or  forest,  seldom  succeeds  well,  especially  in  warm  cli- 
mates ;  and  to  ensure  the  best  possible  success,  every  thing  should 
be  attended  to,  in  due  season,  but  more  particularly  planting  ;  for 
"  time  waits  for  no  body."  Apples  and  pears  however,  may  be 
planted,  with  tolerable  success,  in  the  middle  states,  but  more  par- 
ticularly in  a  backward  season,  any  time  before  the  middle  of  April  ; 
though  it  is  necessity  alone,  that  could  warrant  their  removal,  at  so 
late  a  period. 

Let  it  be  oserved  as  a  general  rule,  always  to  plant  or  transplant 
your  fruit-trees,  before  a  leaf  expands  or  a  blossom  appears  :  it  is 
true,  that  some  plant  later,  but  never  with  equal  success. 


328  THE  VINEYARD.  [APRIL. 

The  grafting  of  various  kinds  of  fruit-trees,  may  be  performed  in 
the  early  part  of  this  month,  as  directed  in  the  Nursery >  for  March, 
page  241,  Sec. 


THE  VINEYARD. 

VINE  cuttings  preserved  since  the  time  of  pruning,  as  direct- 
ed in  page  239,  may  yet  be  planted  in  the  method  pointed  out,  in 
page  240  ;  and  all  the  other  work  directed  to  be  done  in  the  Vine- 
yard, in  March,  should  now  be  finished  as  early  as  possible.  Rooted 
plants  may  also  be  planted  out  into  rows,  at  proper  distances,  but 
the  earlier  in  the  month,  the  beter. 

If  neglected  last  month,  you  must  early  in  this,  before  the  buds 
begin  to  shoot,  either  plough,  dig,  or  deeply  hoe,  the  ground  between 
the  vines.  This  is  indispensible  :  the  surface  must  always  be  kept 
loose,  clean,  and  free  from  weeds,  or  the  consequence  will  be,  the 
having  of  few  fruit,  and  these  of  a  bad  and  insipid  quality.  Keep- 
ing the  earth  loose  and  pulverized  by  frequent  working,  will  cause 
it  to  attract  the  dews,  imbibe  the  rains  freely,  when  such  occur, 
and  consequently,  to  be  constantly  stored  with  a  sufficient  supply 
of  nourishment,  for  the  plants  and  fruit ;  and  moreover,  the  reflec- 
tion of  the  sun,  from  the  clean  surface,  will  dry  and  dissipate  the 
clamps,  that  would  otherwise  cause  the  fruit  to  become  mildewed, 
and  render  their  quality  crude  and  insipid. 

In  looking  over  the  vines  about  the  end  of  the  month,  observe 
to  displace  such  young  shoots  or  prominent  buds,  as  appear  use- 
less, or  promise  to  be  injurious  to  those  intended  for  bearing  fruit. 
Many  small  weakly  shoots,  generally,  arise  from  the  old  stocks  or 
branches,  that  seldom  produce  fruit,  and  are  supernumerary  ;  such 
should  be.  rubbed  off  close,  except  in  places  where  a  supply  of  new 
wood  or  shoots  for  next  year's  bearing  are  wanted  ;  in  which  case, 
a  suitable  number  should  be  carefully  preserved.  This  operation 
ought,  at  this  time,  to  be  performed  with  the  finger  and  thumb, 
nipping  or  rubbing  them  off,  close  to  where  produced. 

Where  two  shoots  arise  from  one  bud,  take  the  worst  away,  the 
remaining  one  will  grow  stronger,  and  its  fruit  be  numerous  and 
large  in  proportion. 

The  vines  should  now  have  stakes  placed  to  them,  such  as  arc 
directed  to  be  made  in  page  41,  and  any  old  or  decayed  poles,  re- 
placed with  new,  if  not  done  in  the  former  months  ;  in  order  to  tie 
and  train,  the  young  advancing  shoots  thereto. 

Any  vei-y  long  shoots  of  the  last  year,  left  upon  strong  and  estab- 
lished stocks,  for  fruiting  more  abundantly,  as  directed  in  page  140  ; 
may  about  the  first  of  this  month,  when  the  sap  has  arisen,  and  the 
shoots  become  pliant,  be  bent  round  the  stake,  in  the  form  of  a 
hoop,  and  made  fast  thereto  with  a  willow  twig.  &c.  by  this  method  it 


APRIL.]  THE  NURSERY.  329 

will  break  out  into  fruit  more  abundantly,  and  produce  a  less  luxuri- 
ancy  of  wood,  than  if  left  in  the  ordinary  way  ;  but  it  must  be  bent 
gently,  so  as  not  to  crack  the  bark,  lest  it  should  bleed  and  be  weak- 
ened thereby,  or  become  totally  abortive. 


THE  NURSERY. 


AS  it  is  my  plan  to  avoid  repetitions  as  much  as  possible,  in 
order  to  make  room  for  more  important  matter ;  and  having  gone 
pretty  extensively  into  the  Nursery  business  in  March,  I  must  re- 
fer you  to  that  month,  for  general  instructions  rejecting  the  cul- 
ture of  trees  and  shrubs.  You  will  there  find  the  various  methods, 
and  proper  periods  for  grafting ;  the  modes  of  raising,  planting,  and 
training  all  sorts  of  live  hedges  ;  the  different  ways  of  cultivating 
various  kinds  of  shrubby  plants,  forest  and  fruit-trees,  by  layers, 
suckers,  cuttings,  and  seeds,  &c.  a  repetition  of  which,  in  this  place, 
would  only  swell  the  book  to  no  purpose. 

Let  it,  however,  be  observed,  that  the  sowing  of  all  kinds  of  tree 
and  shrub  seeds  (except  those  that  have  had  a  year's  previous  pre- 
paration,) and  also  grafting  ;  may  successfuly  be  practised  in  the 
middle  states,  in  the  early  part  of  this  month,  and  in  the  eastern 
states,  till  near  the  latter  end  thereof ;  and  that  the  earlier  in  the 
month  such  can  be  done,  provided  the  ground  is  in  good  condition, 
and  the  weather  favourable,  the  better.  Propagation  by  layers, 
suckers,  and  cuttings,  may  also  be  practised  in  the  early  part  of  this 
month,  both  in  the  middle  and  eastern  states,  and  indeed,  in  the 
latter,  it  is  the  most  eligible  season  for  the  performance  of  that 
work. 

Tran  sfi  Ian  I  ing . 

All  hardy  evergreen  trees  and  shrubs,  seedlings  and  others,  may 
be  taken  up  and  transplanted,  in  the  first  week  of  this  month,  (ear- 
lier in  the  southern  states,  and  not  much  later  in  the  eastern,)  with 
great  certainty  of  success. 

Pines  and  firb  of  all  kinds,  may  now  be  removed.  Likewise 
cedars,  junipers,  Kalmia's  and  Rhododendrons  ;  Pyracantha's,  hol- 
lies, evergreen  oaks,  and  Yews ;  and  also,  alaternus's,  phillyrea's, 
arbor-vita's,  and  evergreen  privet,  with  many  others. 

The  seedlings  are  to  be  planted  as  directed  in  March  ;  the  others, 
as  in  page  293,  and  immediately  after,  they  should  have  a  good  wa- 
tering, to  settle  the  earth  about  their  roots.  Likewise,  any  decidu- 
ous shrubs  and  trees  of  the  late  shooting  kinds,  may  yet  be  trans- 
planted, if  done  eariy  in  th.c  month. 

u  u 


530  THE  NURSERY,  [APRIL, 


Care  of  new  planted  Trees  and  Shrubs. 

Water  the  new  plantations  of  evergreens  and  flowering-shrubs, 
&c.  but  in  particular  those  which  were  lately  planted  out  from  the 
seed  beds.  Three  times  a  week  will  be  sufficient  for  these  ;  and 
for  those  deciduous  kinds  that  have  been  transplanted  in  autumn  or 
early  in  spring,  once  a  week  will  do  ;  always  observing,  during  this 
month,  to  give  the  water  very  early  in  the  morning. 

J^'etv  Graf  fed  Trees. 

Examine  the  new  grafted  trees ;  the  clay  is  sometimes  apt  to  fall 
off,  or  crack,  so  as  to  admit  air  and  wet,  to  the  grafts. 

When  that  is  the  case,  the  old  clay  must  be  taken  entirely  off, 
and  immediately  apply  some  more,  that  is  fresh  and  well  wrought : 
let  this  be  closed  in  every  part,  so  that  neither  air  nor  wet  can  enter. 

Where  ther-j-are  any  shoots  produced  from  the  stocks  below  the 
grafts,  rub  them  off  close ;  for  these,  if  permitted  to  grow,  would 
starve  tire  young  shoots :  be  careful  also,  to  eradicate  all  root  suckers. 

Budded  Trees. 

Budded  trees  should  also  be  looked  over  obout  this  time  ;  for 
those  that  were  worked  last  summer,  will  now  be  making  their  first 
shoots,  and  therefore,  demand  some  attention. 

The  first  shoots  from  the  innoculated  buds  are,  in  some  seasons, 
apt  to  be  attacked  by  insects  or  blights  ;  and  these,  if  not  prevented, 
will  injure  them  greatly,  and  sometimes  entirely  spoil  them  ;  but 
by  timely  attention,  it  may  be,  in  a  great  measure,  prevented : 
where  the  ends  of  the  young  shoots  appear  crumpled,  and  the 
leaves  curled,  let  them  be  carefully  taken  off,  for  they  are  full  of 
small  insects.  By  this  practice  the  vermin  may  be  prevented  from 
spreading  farther. 

Likewise  observe,  that  all  shoots  which  put  out  from  the  stock, 
except  the  proper  inserted  bud,  must  be  rubbed  off  constantly,  as 
they  are  produced,  that  its  whole  efforts  may  go  to  the  support  of 
the  bud-shoots  only. 

The  Management  of  Seed-beds. 

Water  occasionally  the  seed-beds  of  all  kinds  of  trees  and  shrubs 
in  dry  weather  :  this  must  be  practised  both  before  and  after  the 
plants  begin  to  appear. 

Observe  at  all  times  to  water  these  beds  with  moderation  ;  a  lit- 
tle and  often,  must  be  the  rule.  Likewise  be  very  careful  not  to 
apply  the  water  over  hastily  at  any  time,  for  that  would  be  apt  to 
\vash  the  earth  away  from  the  seed,  and  also  from  the  young  plants, 
now  beginning  to  come  up  :  be  particularly  careful  as  to  the 
more  tender  and  delicate  sorts  :  generally  let  the  refreshments  of 
water  be  repeated  moderately  once  every  two  days,  .in  warm  dry 


AfKii,.j  THE  NURSERY.  331 

weather ;  which  will  be  of  great  service   to  all  kinds  of  seedling 

plants. 

Shade  will  also  prove  -very  beneficial  in  the  middle  of  hot  sunny 
days,  to  many  of  the  choice  kinds  of  seedling-trees  and  shrubs,  about 

the  time  of  their  first  appearing,  and  for  some  time  after. 

These  young  plants  may  be  shaded  from  the  sun  occasionally, 
by  fixing  hoops  across  the  beds  ;  then  let  mats,  canvas,  or  the  like, 
be  drawn  over  the  hoops  as  often  as  occasion  requires. 

Where  there  are  boxes,  pots,  or  tubs  of  seedling  plants,  let  them 
be  placed  in  a  shady  situation,  about  the  middle,  or  towards  the 
latter  end  of  this  month,  where  they  may  have  the  morning  and  af- 
ternoon sun  only  ;  carefully  protecting  them  from  its  mid-day  in- 
fluence. 

All  beds  of  seedling  trees  and  "shrubs  whatever,  must  be  kept 
perfectly  clean  from  weeds.  This  should  be  carefully  attended  to, 
ior  the  weeds  are  of  much  quicker  growth  than  the  young  seedling 
plants,  and  would  soon  get  the  start  of  them,  if  permitted  to  stand. 
Therefore,  let  such,  as  soon  as  they  appear  in  the  beds,  be  pricked 
•out,  before  they  get  .to  any  great  head,  performing  it  by  a  very 
careful  hand-weeding. 

Hoeing  and  Weeding, 

Hoe  and  destroy  weeds  between  the  rows  of  young  trees  ;  they 
will  now  rise  abundantly  from  seeds  ;  but  by  applying  the  hoe  to 
them  while  young,  they  may  be  very-  expeditiously  destroyed. 
Choose  dry  weather,  let  the  hoe  be  sharp,  take  advantage  of  the 
weeds  while  they  are  small,  and  cut  them  up  clean  within  the 
ground. 

There  is  nothing  like  destroying  weeds  in  due  time  ;  for  when 
they  are  suffered  to  grow  large,  they  are  extremely  hurtful  to  all 
young  trees  and  shrubs,  and  in  particular  to  those  plants  which  are 
not  far  advanced  in  their  growth  ;  besides,  if  suffered  to  ripen  and 
shed  their  seeds,  these  lay  the  foundation  of  a  world  of  trouble  af- 
terwards, which  might  be  avoided,  by  timely  exertions  and  care. 

Grafting  Hotties,  bV. 

Graft  hollies,  with  cuttings  of  the  variegated  kinds.  The  first 
fortnight  in  this  month,  is  the  proper  time  to  perform  that  work,  in 
the  middle  states. 

The  common  green  holly  is  the  proper  stock  to  graft  the  varie- 
gated kinds  upon  :  and  the  stocks  for  this  purpose  must  not  be  less 
than  three  or  four  year's  growth  from  the  seed  ;  but  those  of  five 
or  six  answer  perfectly  well. 

Get  some  cuttings,  or  grafts,  of  the  best  variegated  kinds  ;  they 
must  be  shoots  of  the  last  summer's  growth.  Let  them  be  grafted 
with  exactness,  according  to  the  general  method  of  whip-grafting. 
See  page  245. 

Likewise,  graft  any  other  curious  varieties  of  trees,  on  stocks  of 
their  own  kinds. 


332  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [APRIL. 

But  in  most  fruit-trees  and  other  deciduous  kinds,  where  any 
grafting  remains  to  be  done,  no  time  should  be  omitted  in  forward- 
ing it  early  in  the  month. 

Inarching. 

Inarching  may  be  performed  now,  on  ever-greens,  and  on  any 
kinds  of  trees  or  shrubs,  that  you  desire  to  propagate  that  way. 

This  method  of  grafting  is  principally  intended  for  those  kinds, 
which  are  not  easily  raised  by  common  grafting  or  bidding  ;  or  by 
seeds,  layers,  or  cuttings,  or  any  of  the  other  general  methods. 

The  ever-green  kinds  may  be  inarched  towards  the  end  of  this 
month  ;  but  deciduous  sorts  generally  succeed  best  when  done  about 
the  middle  of  it.  For  the  method,  see  page  249. 


THE  PLEASURE,  OR  FLOWER  GARDEN. 


Choice  Hyacinths. 

THE  earlier  sorts  of  hyacinths  will  begin  to  open  and  shew 
colour,  in  the  beginning  of  this  month  ;  it  will  be  proper  to  screen  the 
finer  sorts,  from  the  two  powerful  effects  of  the  sun,  which  if  not 
prevented,  would  bleach  and  tarnish  their  colours,  particularly  the 
reds  and  deep  blues  ;  but  if  they  are  properly  defended  from  it, 
their  colours  will  be  preserved,  and  they  will,  in  some  measure,  be 
kept  back,  so  as  to  be  in  full  bloom  with  the  later  sorts,  especially 
if  the  roots  of  the  early  kinds  have  been  planted,  about  an  inch  deeper 
than  the  rest :  it  is  a  very  desirable  object,  in  a  grand  display  of 
this  delightful  flower  to  have  a  uniform  bloom. 

It  will  be  necessary  to  support  the  stems,  as  they  advance  in  height ; 
for  this  purpose,  small  sticks  or  wires,  painted  green,  should  be 
forced  into  the  ground,  immediately  behind  the  bulbs,  either  in  an 
erect  position,  or  leaning  a  little  backwards,  to  which  the  stems  are 
to  be,  rather  loosely,  tied  with  small  pieces  of  green  worsted,  as  soon 
as  they  begin  to  bend,  or  are  in  danger  of  being  borne  down  by  the 
weight  of  their  bells  ;  *  this  operation  must  be  repeated  as  they  ad- 
vance in  height,  for  it  is  impossible  to  do  it  at  one  time,  so  as  to 
answer  the  purpose.  When  the  greater  part  of  the  bed  appears  in 
colour,  a  covering  or  awning  should  be  erected  over  it,  and  the 
walk  to  be  in  front :  for  the  support  of  the  awning,  a  strong  frame  of 
wood  should  be  erected,  ten  feet  high  in  the  centre,  and  seven  feet 
at  each  side,  and  covered  with  strong  sheeting,  which  will  keep  out 
the  rain  and  admit  a  tolerable  degree  of  light ;  it  should  come  down 

*  The  Florist's  usual  name  for  the  Corolla  of  the  Hyacinth. 


APRIL.]  FLOWER-GARDEN.  333 

close  to  the  bed  on  the  north  side,  in  order  to  preserve  it  from  cold 
winds,  which  are  prejudicial  to  the  bloom. 

The  covering  ought  to  be  so  constructed,  by  means  of  lines  and 
pullies,  as  to  be  easily  and  expeditiously  rolled  up,  or  let  down  as 
Occasion  requires,  to  afford  the  plants,  ths  full  benefit  of  light  and 
air,  at  all  favourable  opportunities  ;  that  is  to  say,  when  the  air  is 
mild,  and  light  clouds  intervene,  so  as  to  blunt  the  sun's  rays. 

A  bed  of  Hyacinths  never  requires  to  be  watered  at  any  period  ; 
the  rains  that  happen  after  planting,  are  generally  more  than  suf- 
ficient, both  for  the  roots  and  bloom  ;  and  after  the  bloom  is  over, 
they  are  rather  prejudicial  than  otherwise,  except  when  very  mo- 
derate. 

Although  covering  in  the  manner  described,  presents  and  exhi- 
bits the  bloom  to  the  greatest  advantage,  yet  it  evidently  has  a  ten- 
dency to  weaken  and  injure  the  bulbs,  and  ought  Hot,  therefore,  to 
be  continued  more  than  two  or  three  weeks  at  most  ;  but  as  soon 
as  the  general  bloom  declines,  the  bed  should  be  immediately  ex- 
posed to  the  open  air,  and  the  hoops  replaced  as  before,  that 
mats  may  be  laid  on  occasionally,  for  protecting  the  beds  from  heavy 
torrents  of  rain,  which  would  prevent  the  bulbs  from  ripening 
well,  and  render  them  very  subject  to  decay,  after  having  been  tak- 
en up. 

The  common  hyacinths  in  open  beds  and  borders,  will  require  no 
other  care  at  this  time,  than  to  support  their  flower  stems,  as  direct- 
ed above  ;  without  which,  they  will  generally  fall  down,  and  much 
of  their  beauty  be  lost. 

A  Description  of  the  Properties  of  a  Fine  DOUBLE  HTACINVH. 

The  stem  should  be  strong,  tall,  and  erect,  supporting  numerous 
large  bells,  each  suspended  by  a  short  and  strong  peduncle,  or  foot- 
stalk, in  a  horizontal  position,  so  that  the  whole  may  have  a  com- 
pact pyramidal  form,  with  the  crown,  or  uppermost  bell  perfectly 
erect. 

The  bells  should  be  large  and  very  double  that ;  is,  well  filled 
with  broad  bold  petals,  appearing  to  the  eye  rather  convex,  than  flat 
or  hollow :  they  should  occupy  about  one  half  the  length  of  the 
stem. 

The  colours  should  be  clear  and  bright,  whether  plain  red,  white, 
or  blue,  or  variously  intermixed  and  diversified  in  the  eye  ;  the  lat- 
ter, it  must  be  confessed,  gives  additional  lustre  and  elegance  to  this 
beautiful  flower. 

Strong  bright  colours  are,  in  general,  preferred  to  such  as  are 
pale  ;  there  are,  however,  many  rose-coloured,  pure  white,  and 
light  blue  hyacinths,  in  high  estimation. 

Observations.  Some  sorts  consist  cf  petals  of  different  colours, 
such  as  light  reds,  with  deep  red  eyes  ;  whites,  with  rosey,  blue, 
purple,  or  yellow  eyes  ;  light  blues,  with  deep  blue  or  purple  eyes; 
and  yellow,  with  purple  in  the  eye,  &c.  Others  again  have  their 
petals  striped,  or  marked  down  the  centre,  with  a  paler  or  deeper 
colour,  which  has  a  pleasing  effect. 


334  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [APRIL. 

It  some  times  happens,  and  with,  some  sorts  more  frequently 
than  others,  that  two  stems  are  produced  from  the  same  root,  one 
is  generally  considerably  taller  than  the  other ;  when  this  is  the 
case,  the  weaker  may  be  cut  off  near  the  ground,  soon  after  it 
makes  its  appearance,  or  suffered  to  bloom,  and  its  bells  be  inter- 
mixed with  the  lower  ones  of  the  taller  stem,  so  clextrously  as  to 
appear  like  one  regular  pyramid  of  bulls. 

i 
Tulips. 

Towards  the  end  of  this  month,  some  of  your  choice  tulips  will 
begin  to  shew  colour ;  they  should,  when  the  greater  part  of  the 
blossoms  begin  to  open,  be  shaded  from  the  sun,  in  the  same  man- 
ner as  directed  for  your  elegant  hyacinths  ;  for,  when  its  heat  is 
considerable,  it  will  cause  the  colours  to  run  and  intermix,  in  such 
a  manner,  as  to  destroy  the  elegance  and  beauty  of  the  flowers  ; 
some  sorts  are  more  particularly  liable  to  this  than  others,  and  will 
be  spoiled  in  five  minutes. 

The  awning  should  be  always  kept  rolled  up,  or  totally  off,  ex- 
cept, when  the  sun  is  powerful :  for  if  kept  too  long,  or  too  closely 
covered,  the  colours  of  the  flowers  would  become  faint  and  weak, 
and  the  grandeur  of  effect,  would  be  lost,  or  considerably  lessened. 

Strong  winds,  are  extremely  injurious  to  tulips,  when  in  flower, 
by  dashing  them  against  one  another,  and  thereby  bruising  their 
petals  ;  from  the  effects  of  which,  they  must  be  guarded,  by  letting 
down  the  awning  at  such  times  quite  to  the  ground,  on  the  windy 
side ;  a  line  of  bass  mats  sowed  together,  and  their  upper  edge 
nailed  to  the  frame  on  that  side,  may  answer  the  purpose,  if  the 
cloth  is  not  of  sufficient  length. 

Tulips  never  require  to  be  artificially  watered,  in  the  hottest  and 
driest  seasons,  at  any  period  from  planting  to  taking  up  the  roots  ;  ' 
nevertheless,  moderate  rains  will  be  very  beneficial  to  them  in 
spring,  and  cause  them  to  produce  a  strong  bloom  :  after  flowering, 
too  much  wet  is  very  prejudicial  to  the  roots.  Immediately  after 
the  flowers  are  on  the  decline,  the  bed  must  be  fully  exposed  to  the 
open  air. 

Lines  of  small  twine,  painted  green,  should  pass  from  one  end  of 
the  bed  to  the  other,  corresponding  with  the  rows  of  flowers,  fasten- 
ed at  the  ends  and  middle  to  nice  painted  sticks,  placed  therein  for 
that  purpose  ;  to  these  the  stems  of  the  flowers  are  to  be  loosely 
tied  with  short  pieces  of  green  worsted,  which  will  preserve  a  pleas- 
ing regularity  of  appearance,  without  stiffness  and  formality.  The 
covering  may  be  continued,  at  the  necessary  intervals,  for  three 
weeks  with  safety  ;  but  continuing  it  too  long,  will  injure  them. 

When  vacancies  occur  in  the  beds,  by  the  decay  of  some  roots, 
which  might  look  aukward,  you  may  immerse  the  lower  end  of  the 
stems  of  flowers  from  other  quarters,  in  phials,  filled  with  water, 
and  sunk  into  the  bed,  so  as  not  to  appear  above  ground  ;  these  will 
continue  in  bloom,  when  shaded,  for  several  days,  and  may  be  re- 
placed with  others,  which  will  till  those  vacancies,  and  make  a  tole- 
rable appearance. 


APRIL,]  FLOWER-GARDEN.  335 

Common  tulips  will  require  no  other  care,  in  the  borders,  &c, 
than  keeping  them  free  from" weeds. 

A  description  of  the  properties  of  a  fine  Variegated  Late  TULIP. 

The  stem  should  be  strong,  elastic,  and  erect,  and  about  thirty 
inches  above  the  surface  of  the  bed. 

The  flower  should  be  large  and  composed  of  six  petals  ;  these 
should  proceed  a  little  horizontaly  at  first,  and  then  turn  upwards, 
forming  almost  a  perfect  cup,  with  a  round  bottom,  rather  wider  at 
the  top. 

The  three  exterior  petals,  should  be  somewhat  larger  than  the 
three  interior  ones,  and  broader  at  their  base  :  all  the  petals  should 
have  perfectly  entire  edges,  free  from  notch  or  serrature  ;  the  top 
of  each,  should  be  broad  and  well  rounded  ;  the  ground  colour  of 
the  flower,  at  the  bottom  of  the  cup,  ought  to  be  a  clear  white,  or 
yellcw ;  and  the  various  rich  coloured  stripes,  which  are  the  prin- 
cipal ornament  of  a  fine  Tulip,  should  be  regular,  bold,  and  distinct 
on  the  margin,  and  terminate  in  fine  broken  points,  elegantly  fea- 
thered or  pencelled. 

The  centre  of  each  leaf  or  petal,  should  contain  one  or  more  bold 
blotches,  or  stripes,  intermixed  with  small  portions  of  the  ori- 
ginal or  breeder  colour,  abruptly  broken  into  many  irregular  obtuse 
points.  Some  florists  are  of  opinion,  that  the  central  stripes,  or 
blotches,  do  not  contribute  to  the  beauty  and  elegance  of  the  Tulip, 
unless  confined  to  a  narrow  stripe,  exactly  down  the  centre,  and 
that  they  should  be  perfectly  free  from  any  remains  of  the  original 
breeder  colour :  it  is  certain  that  such  appear  very  beautiful  and 
delicate,  especially,  when  they  have  a  regular  narrow  feathering  at 
the  edge  ;  but  the  greatest  connoisseurs  in  this  flower,  unanimously 
agree,  that  it  denotes  superiority,  when  the  Tulip  abounds  with  rich 
colouring,  distributed  in  a  distinct  and  regular  manner  throughout 
the  flower,  except  in  the  bottom  of  the  cup  ;  which,  it  cannot  be  dis- 
puted, should  be  clear,  of  a  bright  white,  or  yellow,  free  from  stain 
or  tinge,  in  order  to  constitute  what  is  considered  a  perfect  flower. 

Tulips  are  divided  into  two  classes,  -viz.  early  and  late  blowers. 
The  late,  are  infinitely  the  finest  and  most  valuable,and  are  of  course 
entitled  to  the  principal  attention  of  the  curious.  They  are  divided 
into  six  distinct  families,  or  rather  divisions  of  the  same  family,  viz, 

1.  Primo  JBaguet's,  which  are    tall;    the    colours,  brown     on 
white. 

2.  Baguet  Rigaut's,  these  are  not  so  tall  j  and  have  strong  stem* 
and  large  cups ;  the  colours  as  before. 

3.  Incomparable  Verports.     The  characteristics  of  these  are,  the 
form  of  the  cups,  which  are  very  handsome  ;  the  colours  a  shining 
brown  on  white. 

4.  Bybloemen's.     These  have  a  white  ground,  with  a  variety  of 
colours. 

5.  Bizards.  The  colours  of  these,  are  on  a  yellow  ground,  various, 
and  consisting,  in  the  whole,  of  three  or  more. 


536  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [APRIL. 

6.  The  Cherry  and  Rose  ;  the  name  denotes  their  colours,  which 
are  on  a  white  ground. 

Breeders,  are  self  or  plain  coloured  tulips,  obtained  by  sowing 
the  seed,  which  in  time,  by  being  planted  in  a  proper  compost  of 
lime  rubbish  and  poor  soil,  accidentally,  break  out  into  stripes  and 
variegations,  by  which  new  varieties  are  annually  obtained. 

I  have  been  the  more  particular  in  my  account  of  that  glorious 
flower,  the  Tutifia  gcsncriana,  or  garden  tulip,  as  it  is  now  in  more 
general  estimation,  than  any  other  flower  whatever. 

Mr.  SAMUEL  CURTIS,  Florist,  of  Walworth  near  LONDON,  had 
sent  me  last  autumn,  upwards  of  two  hundred  varieties  of  the  most 
elegant  sorts  of  tulips,  and,  at  the  same  time,  informed  me,  that  it 
is  very  common  for  him  to  receive  from  fifty  to  eighty  pounds 
sterling,  for  a  single  root,  of  a  new  variety.  Such  is  the  present 
rags  for  tulips  in  England. 

For  the  most  suitable  soil,  and  best  method  of  planting,  see  the 
Flower-Garden  for  October. 

Ranunculuses. 

April  showers,  and  frequent  rains  in  May,  are  essentially  neces- 
sary to  the  growth  and  vigour  of  Ranunculus's  :  if  these  fail,  soft 
water  must  be  administered  in  sufficient  quantities  between  the 
rows,  by  means  of  a  common  watering  pot,  with  a  long  tube  or 
spout  held  low,  so  as  not  to  wash  the  earth  into  holes  :  for  it  is  bet- 
ter to  avoid  watering  the  plants  themselves,  as  it  might  chill  them 
too  much,  and  stagnate  their  juices.  The  consequences  of  omit- 
ting to  water,  when  necessary,  are  these,  viz.  The  plants  will 
make  little  progress  ;  the  blossom  buds  of  the  strongest  will  be 
small,  and  the  weaker  plants,  will  not  bloom  at  all ;  the  grass  or 
foliage,  will  put  on  a  sickly  yellowish  appearance,  from  which  it 
will  not  recover  during  the  season  ;  and  lastly,  the  roots  when  taken 
up,  will  be  small  and  lean. 

But  such  kinds  of  watering^however  necessary,  are  by  no  means 
so  salutary  to  these,  or  any  other  flowers  or  plants,  as  fine  warm, 
natural  showers  ;  as  they  can  neither  be  so  equally  dispensed,  nor 
are  the  plants  naturally  disposed  to  receive  them,  when  the  atmo- 
sphere is  dry;  because  their  pores  and  fibres  are  contracted,and  they 
are  as  it  were,  in  the  expectancy  of  dry  weather. 

Since  it  is  evident  that  artificial  waterings  are,  in  all  respects,  so 
much  inferior  to  natural,  it  is,  therefore,  better  to  wait  a  day  or  two, 
in  hopes  of  a  change  of  weather,  than  to  be  too  hasty  in  affording 
these  succours,  although  the  plants  may  appear  to  suffer  for  the 
moment,  by  the  omission  ;  for  if  such  a  change  should  fortunately 
take  place,  they  will  receive  infinitely  more  benefit  from  it,  than 
when  both  themselves  and  the  soil  are  already  saturated  or  replen- 
ished with  water,  not  so  congenial  to  vegetation,  as  that  ordained 
by  nature  for  the  purpose.  For  their  further  treatment  see  the 
Flower-Garden  in  ATay. 


APRIL.]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  337 


Anemones. 

The  beds  of  Anemones,  for  the  present,  will  require  exactly  the 
same  treatment  as  the  Ranunculuses  ;  therefore,  it  is  not  necessary 
to  say  more  in  this  place,  respecting  them. 

Auriculas. 

The  Auriculas,  towards  the  middle  of  this  month,  will  be  ad- 
vancing in  their  flower  stems.  If  any  plant  is  possessed  of  more 
than  one  or  two  principal  stems,  it  is  advisable  to  pinch  off  the  pips, 
or  flower-buds,  of  the  smallest  and  weakest ;  in  order  to  render  the 
blossoms  of  the  remaining,  larger  and  more  vigorous,  than  they 
would  be,  if  this  was  omitted  to  be  done  in  due  time. 

When  the  pips  become  turgid,  and  begin  to  expand,  they  must 
be  preserved  from  rain ;  nor  should  the  early  plants  be  suffered  to 
remain  in  a  situation  exposed  to  cold  winds  :  on  the  contrary,  they 
ought  to  be  selected  from  the  rest,  and  removed  to  a  shady  corner, 
where  they  should  have  hand-glasses  suspended  over  them,  or 
placed  on  brick-bats  or  the  like,  to  admit  air,  and  yet  preserve  the 
expanding  bloom  from  rain. 

The  farina  or  mealy  dust,  which  overspreads  and  ornaments  the 
surface  of  those  flowers,  contributes  exceedingly,  to  their  lustre 
and  beauty ;  this  must  therefore,  be  preserved  upon  them ;  the 
least  shower  of  rain  would  easily  wash  it  off ;  it  is  also  liable  to  be 
blow n  away  by  the  winds ;  and  the  sun,  if  permitted  to  shine  freely 
on  the  flowers,  would  occasion  them  soon  to  fade. 

Therefore,  where  it  is  required  to  have  the  more  curious  or 
choice  varieties,  to  blow  in  the  best  perfection,  the  pots  containing 
the  plants  should,  according  as  the  flowers  begin  to  open,  be  imme- 
diately removed  and  placed  on  the  shelves  of  the  auricula  stage,  or 
where  the  flowers  may  be  protected  occasionally,  from  such  wea- 
ther as  would  deface  the  bloom.  The  stand  or  stage,  should  have 
from  three  to  five  ranges  of  shelves,  in  proportion  to  the  number  of 
pots,  about  six  inches  wide,  rising  theatre-like,  one  above  another, 
from  the  front ;  having  the  back  generally  placed  against  a  shady 
wall,  pale,  or  other  building  ;  it  must  be  constantly  covered  at  top, 
water-tight,  sloping  to  the  back  part ;  but  the  front  and  ends  should 
only  be  covered  occasionally,  by  having  some  canvas  or  mats  fas- 
tened thereto  by  way  of  curtain,  so  contrived  that  it  may  be  readily 
let  down  and  drawn  up  at  pleasure  ;  which,  when  the  air  is  very 
sharp,  or  in  high  winds,  or  driving  rains,  must  be  letdown  to  shel- 
ter the  flowers  ;  but  when  the  weather  is  mild  and  calm,  let  the 
front  and  ends  be  constantly  open.  Or  this  may  also  be  used  occa- 
sionally to  shade  the  flowers  from  the  sun,  where  it  has  access  in 
the  heat  of  the  day ;  observing  however,  generally,  not  to  let  the 
screen  remain  longer  than  is  necessary  for  the  defence  of  the 
bloom. 

Regular  waterings  should  be  given  during  the  time  the  plants  are 
on  the  stage  ;  examjne  them  once  every  day,  to  see  where  water  is 

x  x 


SS8  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [APRIL, 

wanted  ;  and  let  such  pots  as  stand  in  need  of  that  article  be  imme- 
diately supplied  with  it.  In  doing  this,  suffer  no  water  to  fall  on 
the  flowers,  for  that  would  wash  off  the  afore-mentioned  farinaceous 
bloom,  and  greatly  deface  their  beauty. 

The  waterings  should  be  modertae,  and  frequent ;  for  these 
plants  being  rather  of  a  succulent  nature,  cannot  bear  too  much, 
•without  material  injury. 

Keep  the  surface  of  the  pots  perfectly  neat,  free  from  weeds  and 
every  sort  of  litter;  suffer  no  decayed  leaves  to  remain  on  the 
plants,  but  let  such,  as  soon  as  they  appear,  be  taken  of. 

By  thus  placing  your  auricula  pots  on  a  covered  stage,  it  not  on- 
ly preserves  the  flowers  much  longer  in  beauty,  but  you  also,  more 
readily  view  them,  and  they  show  themselves  to  much  greater  ad- 
vantage than  when  placed  on  the  ground. 

The  shelves  and  back  of  the  stage,  should  be  painted  black,  or  of 
some  dark  colour,  by  way  of  contrast  to  the  white  eyes,  &c.  of  the 
flowers  :  and  if  a  large  looking-glass  be  placed  at  each  end  of  the 
stage,the  effect  produced  will  be  very  pleasing,  by  apparently  length- 
ening the  stage  each  way,  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach.  * 

A  row  of  fine  Polyanthus's  in  pots,  may  likewise  be  introduced  on 
the  auricula  stage,  it  will  add  to  the  variety  and  form  a  pleasing 
contrast. 

The  tallest  flowering  auricula's,  should  stand  on  the  most  distant 
shelf,  and  the  shortest  in  front ;  those  stems  which  are  weak  and  bend, 
ought  to  be  supported  with  small  wires,  fixed  in  the  earth  behind 
them,  so  as  not  to  be  easily  discerned.  If  the  roof  of  the  stage 
is  covered  with  glass,  it  will  be  an  additional  advantage  to  the 
plants. 

A  Description  of  the  Properties  of  a  fine  Variegated  AURICULA^ 

The  stem  should  be  strong,  erect,  and  elastic,  and  of  a  proper 
height,  that  the  bunch  or  truss  of  flowers,  may  be  above  the  foliage 
of  the  plant. 

The  peduncles  or  foot-stalks,  should  also  be  strong  and  elastic, 
and  of  a  proportional  length  to  the  size  and  quantity  of  the  pips, 
which  should  not  be  less  than  seven  in  number,  that  the  bunch 
may  be  rather  round,  close,  and  compact. 

The  component  parts  of  the  pip,  are  the  tube,  with  its  stamens 
and  anthers  ;  the  eye,  and  the  exterior  circle  containing  the  ground 
colour,  with  its  edge  or  margin  :  these  three  should  be  all  well  pro- 
portioned, which  will  be  the  case,  if  the  diameter  of  the  tube  be  one 
part,  the  eye  three,  and  the  whole  pip  or  flower,  six,  or  nearly  so. 

AIL  the  admirers  of  this  charming  flower  agree,  that  the  pips 
ought  to  be  round  ;  but  this  seldom  happens  ;  and  we  must  be  con- 
tent if  they  are  so  nearly  round,  as  not  to  be  what  is  called  starry. 

The  anthers  or  summits  of  the  stamins,  ought  to  be  large,  bold, 
and  fill  the  tubs  well,  and  the  tube  should  terminate  rather  above 
the  eye  ;  the  eye  should  be  very  white,  smooth,  and  round,  without 
any  cracks,  uncl  distinct  from  the  ground  or  self-colour* 


FLOWER  GARDEN.  339 

The  ground  colour  should  be  bold  and  rich,  and  equal  on  every 
side  of  the  eye,  whether  it  be  in  one  uniform  circle,  or  in  bright 
patches  ;  it  should  be  distinct  at  the  eye,  and  only  broken  at  the 
outward  part,  into  the  edging  ;  a  fine  black,  purple,  or  coffe-colour, 
contrast  best  with  the  eye  ;  a  rich  blue,  or  bright  pink,  is  pleasing, 
but  a  glowing  scarlet,  or  deep  crimson,  would  be  most  desirable,  if 
well  edged  with  a  bright  green  ;  but  this  is  very  rare. 

The  green  edge,  or  margin,  is  the  principal  cause  of  the  varie- 
gated appearance  in  the  flower ;  and  it  should  be  in  proportion  to 
the  ground  colour  ;  that  is,  about  one  half  of  each. 

The  darker  grounds  are  generallly  covered  with  a  white  pow- 
der, which  constitutes  much  of  the  beauty  of  the  flower. 

Comfiost  for  Auriculas* 

The  compost  proper  for  Auriculas,  should  consist  of  the  follow- 
ing ingredients,  in  the  annexed  proportions,  viz. 

One  half,  rotten  cow-dung,  two  years  old. 

One  sixth,  fresh  sound  earth,  of  an  open  texture. 

One  eighth,  earth  of  rotten  leaves. 

One  twelfth,  coarse  sea  or  river  sand. 

One  twelfth,  moory  earth. 

One  twenty-fourth,  ashes  of  burned  vegetables. 
These  ingredients  should  be  well  incorporated,  and  placed  in  an 
open  situation,  perfectly  exposed  to  the  action  of  the  sun  and  air  ;  it 
should  be  laid  in  a  regular  heap  or  mass  from  fifteen  to  eighteen 
inches  thick  and  turned  frequently :  in  this  state  it  should  remain 
a  year  or  six  months,  turning  it  once  every  two  months,  and  keeping 
it  always  free  from  weeds  :  before  it  is  used,  it  should  be  passed 
through  a  coarse  screen,  to  free  it  from  stones,  Sec.  and  to  incorpo- 
rate it  the  more  effectually. 

JVt'W  Foiling'  Auriculas,  and  Increasing  them  by  Slifis, 

The  most  advisable  time  to  transplant,  or  to  slip  auriculas,  or  as 
It  is  usually  termed,  to  pot  them,  is  immediately,  or  very  soon  after 
their  bloom  is  over  ;  and  this  should  be  repeated  annually  ;  for,  it 
preserves  the  health  and  consitution  of  the  plants, by  affording  them 
a  fresh  supply  of  nourishment,  and  affords  an  opportunity  of  cur- 
tailing the  fibres,  if  grown  too  long,  or  if  any  are  decayed  and 
mouldy ;  or  of  cutting  off,  the  lower  part  of  the  main  root,  if  in  a  rot- 
ting or  decayed  state,  which  is  frequently  the  case.  By  this  treat- 
ment, the  plants  are  brought  into  a  state  of  action  and  fresh  vege- 
tation, which  will  cause  a  continued  circulation  of  the  juices,  during 
the  summer. 

The  pots  should  be  hard  baked,  and  for  blooming  plants,  ought 
to  be  seven  inches  in  diameter  at  top,  four  and  a  half  at  bottom,  and 
about  seven  deep  :  but  smaller  plants,  and  offsets,  should  have 
shallower  pots,  and  of  a  proportinate  size  ;  and  very  large  plants, 
must  have  pots  in  proportion.  These  before  being  used,  if  new, 
should  be  immersed  in  water,  for  five  or  six  hours,  or  more. 


340  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [APRIL. 

In  potting  or  transplanting  auricula's,  the  plant  ought  to  be  care- 
fully turned  out  of  the  former  pot,  and  the  earth  shaken  from  its 
fibres,  which  should  be  trimmed,  if  found  long  and  numerous,  and 
also  any  part  of  the  old  main  root,  that  appears  in  a  sickly  or  de- 
cayed state,  must  be  cut  clean  out,  whether  on  the  lower  part,  or 
side  ;  and  if  near  the  leaves,  a  cement  should  be  immediately  ap- 
plied, consisting  of  bees  wax  and  pitch,  in  equal  quantities,  melted 
together,  and  laid  on  when  soft,  but  not  hot,  to  make  it  adhere  more 
firmly.  Place  a  hollow  oyster  shell,  or  the  like,  over  the  hole  in 
the  bottom  of  each  pot,  with  the  convex  side  upwards,  and  then 
more  than  half  fill  it,  with  the  compost ;  let  it  be  higher  in  the 
middle  than  at  the  sides  :  the  plant  is  next  to  be  placed  thereon, 
with  its  fibres  regularly  distributed  all  around,  and  the  pot  filled 
up  ;  adding  a  little  coarse  sand,  close  round  the  stem  of  the  plant, 
on  the  surface  :  the  bottom  of  the  pot,  should  then,  be  gently  struck, 
two  or  three  times,  against  the  ground,  in  order  to  close  the  earth 
about  the  roots  ;  this  will  cause  it  to  sink  half  an  inch,  below  the 
top  of  the  pot,  which  will  prevent  the  loss  of  water,  when  adminis- 
tered. 

N.  B.  The  true  depth  to  plant  an  auricula,  is  within  about  half 
an  inch  of  the  bottom  of  its  lowest  or  outside  leaves. 

Any  offsets  that  have  formed  one  or  more  fibres,  of  an  inch  or 
two  in  length,  may  be  slipfied  off  the  old  plant,  and  replanted  round 
the  sides  of  large  pots,  or  singly  in  small  ones,  filled  with  the  same 
compost ;  and  if  handglasses  are  placed  over  them,  such  will  cause 
their  fibres  to  grow  more  rapidly  ;  but  they  ought  not  to  be  long 
continued  on,  lest  the  plants  should  be  drawn  and  weakened 
thereby. 

After  potting,  give  each  plant  a  little  water,  and  place  the  pots  in 
a  shaded  situation,  where  they  may  have  the  morning  sun  till  ten 
o'clock,  and  the  afternoon,  from  four  or  five,  but  by  no  means  under 
the  drip  of  trees  ;  there  they  are  to  remain  till  October,  taking  care 
to  keep  them  regularly  watered,  and  free  from  weeds.  The  pots 
may,  or  may  not,  be  plunged  in  the  earth,  but  in  the  latter  case,  they 
will  require  more  attendance. 

Care  qfSted&ng  Auriculas. 

Seedling  auriculas,  which  were  sown  last  autumn,  or  this  spring, 
now  demand  attention  ;  these  plants,  when  newly  come  up,  or  while 
quite  young,  must  be  carefully  protected  from  the  full  sun  in  the 
heat  of  the  day,  and  frequently  refreshed  with  water. 

The  boxes  or  tubs  in  which  they  are  growing,  should  be  removed 
to  a  shady  border,  toward  the  latter  end  of  this  month,  or  beginning 
of  next:  the  place  should  be  open  to  the  morning  sun  till  about  nine 
o'clock,  but  shaded  the  rest  of  the  day, -and  the  plants  watered  fre- 
quently in  dry  weather,  As  soon  as  any  of  them  appear  with  six  leaves 
such  should  be  carefully  taken  out  from  the  rest,  and  planted  in  pots 
or  boxes  filled  with  compost,  about  two  inches  asunder  ;  and  if  grown 
by  the  beginning  of  August,  so  large  as  to  touch  each  other,  they 
may  then  be  transplanted  into  separate  small  pets,  to  remain  all 
winter, 


APRIL.]  FLOWER  GARDEN,  341 

Polyanthuses. 

Polyanthuses  blow  at  the  same  time,  and,  the  fine  kinds,  require 
nearly  the  same  treatment  as  auriculas,  both  with  respect  to  soil 
and  situation  ;  they  are  like  the  latter,  very  impatient  of  heat  and 
drought,  and  agree  with  a  much  greater  portion  of  moisture  :  they 
are  fond  of  shade,  and  will  not  succeed  well,  when  exposed  to  our 
summer  heats  in  a  warm  situation  ;  at  least,  so  as  to  blow,  even  in 
tolerable  perfection,  the  ensuing  season. 

The  fine  kinds  may  be  grown  in  the  same  sized  pots,  and  in  the 
same  compost  as  auriculas,  with  the  addition  of  more  loam  ;  and 
the  common  or  more  indifferent  sorts,  may  be  planted  in  coal  shady 
beds  or  borders,  being  tolerably  hardy,  and  having  more  to  fear 
from  the  summer  heats  than  the  winter  frosts. 

Their  propagation  is  by  slips  and  seed,  at  the  same  time  and  in 
the  same  manner,  as  directed  for  auriculas. 

A  Description  of  the  Properties  of  a  fine  POLTAN^HUS. 

Its  properties  are,  in  most  respects,  similar  to  those  of  a  fine  au- 
ricula ;  that  is,  the  stem,  peduncles,  or  foot-stalks,  and  formation  of 
the  bunch  or  truss;  therefore,  a  description  of  its  pips,  or  corollas, 
only  remains  to  be  given  in  this  place. 

The  tube  of  the  corolla  above  the  calyx,  should  be  short,  well 
filled  with  the  anthers  or  summits  of  the  stamens,  and  terminate 
fluted,  rather  above  the  eye. 

The  eye  should  be  round,  of  a  bright  clear  yellow,  and  distinct 
from  the  ground  colour  ;  the  proportion  as  in  the  auricula  through- 
out ilie  flower. 

The  ground  colour  is  most  admired,  when  shaded  with  a  light 
and  dark  rich  crimson,  resembling  velvet,  with  one  mark  or  stripe 
in  the  centre  of  each  division  of  the  rim,  bold  and  distinct  from  the 
edging  down  to  the  eye,  where  it  should  terminate  in  a  fine  point. 

The  pips  should  be  large,  quite  flat,  and  as  round,  as  may  be  con- 
sistent with  their  beautiful  figure,  which  is  circular  ;  excepting  those 
small  indentures  between  each  division  of  the  rim,  which  divide  it 
into  several  heart-like  segments. 

The  edging  should  resemble  a  bright  gold  lace,  bold,  clear,  and 
distinct,  and  so  nearly  of  the  same  colour  of  the  eye  and  stripes,  as 
scarcely  to  be  distinguished  :  in  short,  the  polyanthus  should  pos- 
sess a  graceful  elegance  of  form,  a  richness  of  colouring,  and  sym- 
metry of  parts,  not  to  be  found  united  in  any  other  flower. 

Fine  double  primroses,  are  cultivated  by  offsets,  in  the  same  way 
and  at  the  same  time  as  polyanthuses,  and  require  similar  care  and 
management  in  pots ;  they  are  somewhat  more  tender^  and  conse* 
quently  must  be  treated  accordingly. 

Carnations, 

If  you  have  omitted  the  potting  or  transplanting  of  carnations 
last  month,  where  necessary,  let  it  be  donje  in  this,  us  early  as  pos* 
sible,  agreeable  to  the  rules  laid  down  in  page  287, 


342  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [APRIL, 

Keep  the  pots  perfectly  free  from  weeds,  and  the  plants  from  de- 
cayed leaves,  and  let  the  earth  on  the  surface  be  stirred,  if  it  binds 
hard  ;  for  this  will  encourage  the  plants  to  shoot,  and  will  also  give 
an  air  of  neatness.  Water  the  pots  often  in  warm  weather,  for  they 
will  require  a  little  every  second  day,  or  oftener  if  the  season  proves 
dry,  which  should  not  be  omitted,  otherwise  the  plants  will  shoot 
weakly,  and  produce  but  slender  flower-stalks. 

When  the  flower-stalks  have  advanced,  let  them  be  supported  as 
directed  in  May. 

Carnations  may  yet  be  finally  planted  into  the  borders,  or  beds, 
where  intended  to  flower,  but  that  should  be  done  in  the  beginning 
of  the  month  :  removing  them  with  balls,  and  watering  them  as. 
soon  as  planted. 

Management  of  Pots  of  Perennial  Plants  in  general. 

Give  fresh  earth  to  such  pots  of  perennial  plants,  as  were  not 
dressed  and  new  earthed  in  March.  For  the  method  of  doing  which, 
see  page  289. 

The  plants  will  receive  great  benefit  from  this  dressing  ;  and 
•where  it  was  not  done  in  that  month,  it  should  not  be  put  off  longer 
than  the  beginning  of  this. 

If  you  have  plants  of  any  kind  in  small  pots,  that  require  to  be 
shifted  into  lager,  it  may  be  performed  early  in  the  month  ;  in  do- 
ing of  which,  turn  each  plant  out  of  the  former  pot,  with  the  ball  of 
earth  entire  ;  trim  the  outside  roots,  and  pare  away  some  of  the 
old  earth  ;  having  fresh  mould  or  compost,  replant  it  into  a  larger 
pot,  filling  the  deficiency  with  new  earth,  and  give  some  water  im- 
mediately. 

Be  very  particular  in  dry  weather  to  supply  all  your  plants  with 
a  sufficiency  of  water  ;  this  is  a  material  article  and  should  not  be 
omitted.  Water  should  be  always  given  as  often  as  the  earth  be- 
gins to  appear  dry  in  the  pots,  as  there  is  no  other  general  rule  by 
which  it  can  be  administered.  . 

Pinks. 

Pinks  may  yet  be  transplanted,  slipped,  and  managed  as  directed 
in  March,  page  288. ...but  it  will  be  necessary  to  do  this,  as  early  in 
the  month  as  possible. 

Tender  Annuals. 

Such  tender  annuals  as  you  have  in  an  advanced  state,  are  to  be 
managed  as  directed  in  page  290;  always  observing  to  give  them 
more  and  more  air,  in  proportion  to  the  increasing  heat  of  the  wea- 
ther, and  shade  to  the  young  and  weakly  plants  from  the  inid-day 
sun,  when  too  powerful.  As  they  advance  in  growth,  it  will  be  ne- 
cessary to  raise  the  frames,  in  order  to  give  them  full  liberty  to 
shoot,  closing  the  vacancy  below  if  thought  necessary. 

But  where  there  is  the  convenience  either  of  a  drawing  frame,  or 
glass-case,  for  the  purpose  of  drawing  the  tall  growing  tricolours, 


APRIL.]  FLOWER  GARDEN.  345 

and  other  curious  annual  plants,  it  may  be  effected  to  greater  ad- 
vantage. 

The  drawing  frame  is  either  composed  of  two,  three,  or  more  dif- 
ferent frames,  all  of  the  same  length  and  breadth  ;  and  each,  about 
nine  or  ten  inches  deep,  except  the  upper  glass-frame,  which  should 
be  ten  inches  deep  in  front,  and  eighteen  at  the  back ;  being  all  of 
equal  dimensions  in  width  and  length,  made  in  a  very  exact  manner, 
to  fit  one  on  the  top  of  another,  appearing  as  but  one  frame,  when 
thus  joined  ;  and  are  to  be  made  use  of  in  the  following  manner  : 

Begin  first  with  the  deepest  frame  ;  then,  when  the  plants  have 
reached  the  glasses,  let  the  said  frame  be  taken  up,  and  in  its  place 
set  one  of  the  others,  and  immediately  fix  the  deepest  frame  upon 
that,  as  above ;  and  then,  when  they  have  filled  that  space,  let  ano- 
ther frame  be  added  ;  observing,  as  above,  to  let  the  deepest  or 
sloping  frame  be  always  placed  uppermost,  in  order  to  receive  the 
glasses. 

The  Glass-Cases  for  this  purpose,  are  generally  made  about  six, 
seven,  or  eight  feet  wide,  and  as  long  as  may  be  convenient ;  the 
height  should  be  five  or  six  feet  in  front,  and  seven  or  eight  in  the 
back. 

The  front  ought  to  be  of  glass-sashes,  perfectly  upright,  and 
facing  the  south  ;  the  back  may  be  either  of  wood  or  brick,  and 
both  ends,  of  the  same  materials,  but  if  of  glass,  the  better  ;  and 
the  top  must  also  be  of  glass-sashes,  sloping  from  the  back  to  the 
front. 

Within  this,  a  hot-bed  is  to  be  made,  for  which  a  pit  must  be  form- 
ed nearly  the  whole  length,  raised  by  brick-work  or  planking,  above 
the  floor  ;  having  the  whole  about  two  feet  and  a  half  deep,  and  from 
four,  to  five  or  six  feet  wide  :  this  is  to  be  filled  with  hot  dung,  or 
tanner's  bark,  carrying  it  up  a  few  inches  higher  than  the  top  of 
the  pit,  to  allow  for  settling  ;  and  if  a  dung-bed,  lay  earth  or  tan- 
bark  at  top,  five  or  six  inches  thick. 

The  pots  are  to  be  placed  upon  this,  plunging  them  to  their  rims 
in  eauth,  as  before  mentioned  ;  but  if  the  bed  be  made  of  tan,  plunge 
them  therein,  having  no  occasion  for  earth  upon  such  beds. 

In  this  frame,  or  glass-case,  let  the  plants  have  fresh  air  daily  ; 
and  give  sufficient  supplies  of  water:  and  towards  the  latter  end  of 
May,  they  will  be  advanced  to  a  large  size,  and  may  be  removed,  in 
their  pots,  into  any  principal  compartment  in  the  pleasure  ground,, 
Sec.  or  placed  among  the  green-house  plants. 

When  tender,  or  curious  annuals,  have  been  omitted  to  be  sown 
in  the  former  months,  a  slight  hot-bed  may  be  made  for  them,  m 
the  beginning  of  this,  to  forward  them  as  much  as  possible.  The 
seeds  are  to  be  sown,  as  directed  in  page  154. 

Sowing  annual  Flower  Seeds- 

All  the  varieties  of  annual  flower-seeds,  that  are  capable  of  bear- 
ing the  open  air  and  of  arriving  at  perfection  in  our  climates,  may 
now  be  sown  with  good  success.  In  the  early  part  of  the  month,  you 
may  sow  the  following;  kinds,  with  many  others,  too  tedious  to 


344  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [APRIL; 

mention  in  this  place,  viz.  Alkekengi,  China  Asters,  in  sorts,  Mcl- 
davian-baum,  Belvidere  or  Summer  Cypress,  Candy-tuft  in  sorts, 
Lobel's-Catchfly,  Cyanus,  in  sorts,  Flos-Adonis,  Bladder-Ketmia, 
Heart's-ease,  Convolvulus  tricolor,  Larkspurs,  in  sorts,  Lavatera,  in 
sorts,  and  Lupins  of  every  kind  ;  Dwarf  Lychnis,  Curled,  Oriental, 
and  Peruvian  Mallows,  Nigelh's,  Roman  Nettle,  Sweet,  Tangier, 
and  Winged  Peas,  Annual  and  Ten-week  Stocks,  Strawberry  Spi- 
nach, Persicaria,  Sunflower,  and  Venus's  Looking-glass  ;  Snails, 
Horns,  Hedge-hogs,  Caterpillars  and  Horse-Shoes ;  Venus's-Na- 
velwort,  Purple,  and  Yellow  Hawkweed ;  Cassia  Chamxchrista, 
Polygala  sanguinea,  and  Silene,  in  sorts,  &c.  Sec.  About  the 
middle  of  the  month  you  may  sow,  Sweet  Alyson,  Love  lies  bleed- 
ing, Prince's  Feather,  Mignonette,  Tree,  and  Spike  Amaranthus  ; 
Cock's-comb's,  Cape  Marigold,  Bastard  Saffron,  and  Honey-wort  ; 
Sweet  Sultan,  China-Hollyhock,  and  China  Pinks  ;  Marvel  of  Pe- 
ru, Nolana,  Palma  Christi,  Annual  Snapdragon,  Zermia  and  Xeran- 
thcmum,  &c.  and  in  the  last  ten  days  of  the  month,  you  may  sow 
either  of  the  proceeding,  and  also  the  following  kinds,  viz.  White, 
purple,  and  striped  Globe  Amaranthus,  Tricolor  Amaranthus, 
Double  Balsams  and  Martynia  annua;  Browallia,  Scarlet  Ipomcea, 
Capsicums  in  sorts,  Serpent  Cucumber,  and  Squirting  Cucumber ; 
White  and  Purple  Egg-plant ;  Cleomc,  purple,  white,  and  dwarf 
Dolichos,  with  many  other  kinds ;  for  which,  see  the  general  Cata- 
logue of  annuals.  The  whole  of  the  preceding  sorts,  may  be  sown 
in  small  patches  in  the  borders,  interspersing  the  kinds,  so  as  to 
form  a  well  assorted  variety,  and  a  long  succession  of  bloom.  If  to  be 
sown  in  patches  observe  the  directions  given  for  sowing  hardy  annual 
floivc r  seeds,  in  page  150,  Sec.  which  will  now  be  perfectly  applicable 
to  these.  Such  as  you  wish  to  sow  in  small  beds  for  transplanting, 
let  them  be  sown  as  directed,  for  perennial  and  biennial  flower  seeds, 
in  page  345,  observing  always,  to  give  each  kind,  a  depth  of  cover- 
ing, in  proportion  to  the  size  of  the  seed. 

Let  the  beds  or  patches,  be  frequently  watered,  in  dry  weather, 
both  before  and  after  the  plants  appear  ;  and  when  they  have  been 
up  a  few  weeks,  let  all  the  large  growing  kinds  be  thinned,  where 
they  have  risen  too  thick  ;  observing  to  transplant  into  other  places, 
where  wanted,  some  of  the  best  you  pull  up,  of  the  kinds  that  suc- 
ceed in  that  way  :  thin  the  others  as  directed  in  May,  8cc. 

Any  of  the  smaller  growing  kinds,  such  as  mignonette,  ten- week 
stock,  Brawallia,  sensitive  plant,  ice  plant,  &c.  may  be  sown  in  pot's, 
and  if  duly  watered  and  kept  clean,  will  arrive  at  good  perfection  ; 
but  the  two  last,  will  require  the  protection  of  glasses  for  some 
time. 

Sowing  Carjiation  and  Pink  Seeds. 

Carnation  and  Pink  seeds,  may  be  sown,  any  time  this  month. 
As  it  is  from  seed,  that  all  new  varieties  are  obtained,  you  should 
sow  some  every  year  ;  and  if  you  have  but  one  good  variety  from, 
each  sowing,  there  can  be  no  reason  to  complain  ;  as  this,  may  after- 
wards be  abundantly  propagated,  by  layers,  or  slips.  The  fine 
double  kinds  seldom  ripen  seed,  but  semi-doubles  c!o  very  plcnti- 


FLOWER-GARDEN. 

fully :  from  the  seeds  of  the  latter,  especially,  when  growing  near 
the  finest  varieties,  you  may  expect  some  good,  and,  perhaps,  va- 
luable flowers.  For  this  purpose,  prepare  a  small  bed  of  good 
rich  ground,  sow  the  seeds  on  the  surface,  tolerably  thick,  each  sort 
separate,  and  sift  over  them  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  of  fine  light 
earth.  If  the  weather  should  prove  dry,  water  the  beds  occa- 
sionally, the  plants  will  soon  rise,  after  which,  it  will  be  necessary 
to  keep  them  free  from  weeds,  and  refresh  them  now  and  then  with  a 
little  water.  For  their  further  management,  see  the  work  of  the 
follovfing  months. 

Sowing'  Perennial  and  Biennial  Flower  Seeds, 

You  may  now,  with  good  success,  sow  the  seeds,  of  most  kinds 
of  perennial  and  biennial  fibrous  rooted  flowers,  that  prosper  in  the 
open  ground;  such  as  those  mentioned  last  month,  in  page  291, 
together  with  Monk's-hood,  Nettle-leaved  Campanala,  Lobelias* 
Phloxes,  Double  Soap  wort,  Sneeze-wort,  Goat's-rue,  and  Red  Gar- 
den Valerian  ;  Crimson  Monarda,  Chinese  Ixia,  Verbascume, 
Night-smelling  Rocket  and  Aletris,  or  star-root ;  Asclepiases,  of 
various  sorts,  Calceolarias,  Maryland  Cassia,  Clinopodiums  and 
Coreopsises  ;  Dracocephalums,  Galega  virginica,  Gerardias,  Cucu- 
balis,  Hedysarums  and  Heucheras ;  Hibiscuses,  Liatrises,  Oeno- 
theras  and  Podalyrias  ;  Penstemons  Rudbeckias,  Saxifragas,  and 
Silphiums ;  Solidagoes,  Spigelias,  Spiraeas,  Chelone,  Trilliums^ 
and  Veronicas,  with  many  other  kinds ;  for  which,  see  the  Ca/a- 
logue  of  fibrous  rooted  perennial  plants,  &c. 

These  seeds  may  either  be  sown  on  borders,  or  on  three  or  four 
feet  wide  beds,  of  rich  earth,  and  covered  evenly  with  fine  light 
earth  ;  the  largest  not  more  than  from  half  to  three  quarters  of  an 
inch  deep,  and  the  smallest  from  an  eighth  to  a  quarter  of  an 
inch. 

But  in  sowing  these  or  any  other  kinds,  you  may  draw  shallow 
drills,  proportioning  the  depth,  to  the  size  of  the  seeds,  and  sow 
them  therein,  drawing  the  earth  lightly  over  them  ;  observing  that 
it  is  much  better  to  cover  too  light,  than  too  deep  ;  for,  if  covered 
shallow,  they  will  vegetate  when  moist  weather  ensues,  but  if  over- 
ly deep,  never.  Or  you  may  practise  the  following  method  :  first 
rake  the  surface  of  the  bed  smooth,  and  with  the  back  of  a  rake,  or 
a  common  trowel,  draw  or  push  off  the  fine  top  mould,  either  into 
the  allies,  or  the  divisions  intended  to  be  left  between  each  kind, 
and  to  a  depth  in  proportion  to  the  size  of  the  seed  intended  to  be 
sown  in  each  space ;  then  sow  it  on  the  surface,  and  cast  the 
drawn  off  earth  evenly  over  it,  after  which,  pick  or  rake  away 
the  lumps  with  a  fine  rake,  and  pat  the  surface  lightly  and  smooth, 
With  the  back  of  the  trowel. 

Should  dry  weather  ensue,  it  will  be  necessary  to  sprinkle  the 
beds,  frequently,  with  water,  both  before  and  after  the  plants  ap- 
pear, and  to  be  very  particular  in  keeping  them  free  from  weeds. 
Some  of  the  more  delicate  kinds  when  up,  may  not  be  able  to  bear 
the  mid-day  sun,  whilst  young,  and  will,  consequently,  appear  in 


346  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [APRK. 

a  declining  state ;  these  must  be  shaded  and  protected  from  its 
influence,  by  occasional  coverings  of  mats,  until  they  have  established 
their  roots,  and  obtained  sufficient  strength  to  withstand  its  force. 

Planting  and  Propagating  Perennial  Flowering-Plants. 

In  the  early  part  of  this  month,  you  may  continue  to  remove  and 
transplant,  most,  sorts  of  fibrous,  and  tuberous  rooted  perennial  flow- 
ering plants,  and  to  slip  and  increase  many  of  them  by  offsets. 
The  following,  together  with  those  mentioned  in  page  292,  may 
yet  be  removed  with  good  success  ;  that  is,  such  of  them  as  have 
not  previously  begun  to  shoot  flower  stems,  viz.  Dracocephalums 
of  various  kinds,  but  particularly  the  ~virgirdcu7n  and  dentatum,  which 
are  very  beautiful ;  Penstemons,  Podalyrias,  Gentianas  of  sorts, 
Hibiscuses  in  great  varieties,  Cypripediums  and  Phloxes  ;  Monar- 
das,  Coreopsises,  Sisyrinchiums  and  Gerardias  ;  Aletrises,  Aco- 
nites, Ranunculus  aconitifolius,  Dictamnuses,  arid  Doclecatheon 
Meadia ;  Galega  virginica,  Hedysarums,  Hemerocallises,  Napsea, 
Pxonia,  Saponaria,  Silphiums  and  Rhexias,  with  many  others  ;  for 
which,  see  the  general  Catalogue.  A  great  number  of  the  above 
kinds,  may  now  be  taken  up  out  of  the  woods  and  fields,  and  trans- 
planted into  the  flower-borders  and  pleasure-grounds  ;  which  will 
keep  up  a  regular  succession  of  bloom,  during  the  whole  summer 
and  autumn.  Their  english  names,  with  the  principal  varieties  of 
each  family,  will  be  found  in  the  Catalogue  of  perennials,  annexed 
to  this  book. 

Let  the  plants  be  taken  up  carefully,  with  balls  of  earth  about 
their  roots,  and  planted  where  necessary  ;  then  water  them,  and  re- 
peat it  in  dry  weather,  till  they  begin  to  grow  freely  :  they  will 
flower,  generally,  the  same  year,  and  those  that  are  truly  perennial, 
v/ill  continue  to  reward  your  labours,  annually,  with  a  new  display 
of  their  beauty,  as  long  as  you  deserve  that  compliment,  by  render- 
ing them  a  fostering  care. 

Here  again,  would  I  call  attention,  to  the  necessity  of  introducing 
into  our  gardens  and  pleasure  grounds,  a, variety  of  our  beautiful 
field  flowers  ;  and  not  to  suffer  those  departments  to  appear  deso- 
lated, in  the  autumnal  months,  whilst  nature  displays  a  profusion  of 
its  glory  in  the  fields,  woods,  meadows  and  swamps;  but  in  doing 
this,  let  it  be  observed,  to  give  each  kind,  a  Boil  and  situation  as 
nearly  similar  to  that  in  which  it  grew  in  its  wild  state,  as  the  na- 
ture and  extent  of  your  ground  will  admit.  See  page  72,  para- 
graphs the  third  and  fourth. 

Note.  In  page  55,  &:c.  you  will  find  general  designs,  both  an- 
tient  and  modern,  for  laying  out  pleasure  grounds,  flower-gardens, 
and  all  kinds  of  ornamental  planting,  to  which  I  refer  you. 

Double  Daisies. 

Double  daisies  may  now  be  propagated  abundantly,  by  dividing 
and  slipping  the  roots  ;  but  these  should  be  planted  in  shady  borders, 
•r  rather  in  shallow  frames,  where  they  can  be  protected  from  the 


APRIL.]  FLOWER-GARDEN.  347 

too  powerful  influence  of  the  summer  sun,  which  would  absolutely 
destroy  them,  if  left  to  its  mercy.  These  frames  will  also  be  con- 
venient, for  the  laying  of  boards  and  mats  over  them,  for  the  winter 
protection  of  the  plants  ;  without  which,  most  of  them  would  perish. 
They  may  be  either  planted  fea  small  pots  sunk  in  the  earth,  or  in 
rows  in  the  beds,  ten  inches  asunder,  and  plant  from  plant,  six 
inches  distant  in  the  row.  Water  them  immediately,  and  give 
them  shade  for  a  few  days. 

Planting  deciduous  Flowering  and  ornamental  Shrubs. 

Such  deciduous  kinds  of  trees  and  shrubs  as  are  yet  to  be  re- 
moved, should  be  transplanted  in  the  first  week  or  ten  days  of  the 
month,  in  the  middle  states,  and  not  delayed  longer  in  the  eastern 
states,  than  the  fifteenth.  For  the  various  kinds  and  methods  of 
planting  them,  see  page  293. 

Propagating  Flowering  Shrubs  and  Evergreens. 

For  the  methods  of  propagating  all  kinds  of  hardy  flowering 
shrubs  and  evergreens,  see  the  Nursery  in  March;  and  also  the 
work  of  the  Nursery  in  this  month,  June  and  July,  &c. 

Planting  E-vergreens. 

Every  kind  of  hardy  evergreen  trees  and  shrubs,  may  be  removed 
in  the  beginning  of  this  month,  with  the  best  possible  success  ;  but 
the  earlier  the  better.  See  page  329,  and  the  general  catalogue  of 
hardy  evergreens. 

Neither  the  English  broad-leaved  laurel,  Portugal  laurel,  sweet 
bay,  Laurustinus,  Arbutus  or  strawberry  tree,  nor  the  evergreen 
cypress,  can  withstand  the  severity  of  the  winter  frosts,  in  the  mid- 
dle or  eastern  states,  with  very  few  exceptions,  in  the  former  ;  and, 
therefore,  must  in  these  places  be  treated  as  green-house  plants. 
In  most  parts  of  the  southern  states,  they  succeed  extremely  well ; 
but  all  kinds  of  trees  and  shrubs  will,  there,  require  to  be  planted 
much  earlier  in  the  season. 

In  transplanting  large  evergreens,  if  the  plants  can  be  convenient- 
ly taken  up,  and  brought  with  balls  of  earth  about  their  roots,  it 
should  be  done,  placing  them  in  the  holes,  with  the  balls  entire  :  or 
previously,  pour  some  water  into  each  hole,  and  with  your  spade 
let  it  and  earth  be  worked  up  together,  then  plant  the  roots  in  the 
pap,  and  fill  the  earth  in  about  them,  tread  it  down  gently,  round  the 
stem,  and  form  it  a  little  hollow  at  top,  in  order  to  retain  about  the 
roots,  any  water  that  may  afterwards  be  given  when  necessary. 

Such  as  are  not  treated  in  this  way,  must  have  a  plentiful  water- 
ing, immediately  after  being  planted,  to  settle  and  close  the  earth 
about  the  roots  ;  and  if  some  mulch  is  laid  on  the  surface  round 
each  plant,  it  will  be  very  serviceable  in  preventing  the  sun  and 
wind  from  drying  the  earth  too  fast. 


348  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [APRIL. 

Stakes  should  be  immediately  placed,  to  such  as  require  them, 
firmly  fixed  in  the  ground,  and  the  plants  tied  thereto. 

Planting  Roses. 

Roses  of  every  sort  may  still  be  planted  with  great  success.  But 
for  some  remarks  worthy  of  attention,  see  that  article  in  page  294. 

Planting  Edgings. 

There  is  no  plant,  that  makes  so  neat  and  permanent  an  edging, 
as  box ;  it  may  be  planted,  for  that  purpose,  in  the  first  week  of  this 
month,  but  if  slips  or  cuttings  are  to  be  used,  they  will  require  very 
frequent  waterings,  till  they  throw  out  and  establish  fibres  or  young 
roots.  Rooted  plants,  however,  or  slips  with  the  roots  attached  to 
them,  will  succeed  well  in  the  early  part  of  the  month,  if  watered 
occasionally.  For  the  method  of  planting  and  forming  box  edg- 
ings, see  page  294. 

Thyme,  hysop,  winter-savory,  and  lavender,  are  sometimes  plant- 
ed for  edgings  ;  but  these  grow  rather  out  of  compass,  or  get 
stubby  and  naked,  by  close  clipping. 

Pinks  may  likewise  be  occasionally  planted  for  edgings;  and 
•will  grow  in  tolerable  close  order  for  a  year  or  two,  and  produce 
abundance  of  flowers. 

Thrift,  if  neatly  planted,  makes  handsome  edgings  to  borders,  or 
flower-beds,  both  in  its  evergreen  property,  and  as  a  pretty  flower- 
ing plant  in  summer.  This  may  be  planted  either  in  a  close  edg- 
ing as  directed  for  box,  or  with  a  dibble,  setting  the  plants  near 
enough  to  touch  one  another,  so  as  at  once,  to  form  a  tolerable  close 
row,  or,  however,  not  above  two  or  three  inches  apart,  giving  oc-f 
casional  waterings  for  a  week  or  two,  if  necessary. 

London-pride,  that  is,  the  Saxifraga  umbrosa,  will  make  a  very 
neat  edging,  and  is  to  be  planted  as  directed  for  thrift. 

Double  daisies  are  made  use  of  in  many  parts  of  Europe  for  edg- 
ings, and  form  very  neat  ones,  but  they  are  not  able  to  bear  the 
heat  of  our  summers,  which  seldom  fail  to  destroy  them,  when  fully 
exposed  thereto  ;  nor  can  they  survive,  without  some  slight  pro- 
tection, the  severe  winters  of  the  middle  and  eastern  states. 

Any  of  our  Sisyrinchiums^  but  particularly  the  mucronaturn^  will 
make  beautiful  edgings,  they  keep  blowing  a  long  time,  look  very 
gay,  and  may  now  be  propagated  by  parting  their  roots,  and  plant- 
ing them,  as  directed  for  thrift.  They  are  indigenous,  and  bear  our 
summers  and  winters  well. 

Strawberries  may  be  occasionally  used,  to  make  edgings  for  large 
Walks,  and  answer  the  double  purpose,  of  pleasure  and  profit. 

Where  box-edgings  want  trimming,  it  should  now  be  done,  al- 
though this  is  not  the  general  season  for  clipping  them  ;  but  not- 
withstanding, when  they  appear  in  need  of  it,  let  them  be  hand- 
somely dressed  with  a  pair  of  garden  shears,  which  will  add  mucji 
|p  their  neatness. 


APRIL.]  FLOWER-GARDEN.  349 

The  Sisyrinchium,  will  bear  trimming  extremely  well,  and  con- 
tinue to  produce  flower-stems  and  flowers,  notwithstanding. 

Where  any  of  the  above  edgings  have,  for  want  of  care,  grown  , 
into  rude  disorder,  they  should  be  taken  up,  slipped,  or  divided,  and  ' 
replanted  in  a  close  regular  manner. 

Tuberoses. 

The  Polianthes  tuberosa,  or  Tuberose.  It  is  said  that  this  beauti- 
ful flower,  was  first  brought  into  Europe  from  the  East  Indies,  by 
Father  Theophilus  Minuti,  and  to  have  been  cultivated  by  him  at 
Boisgencier,  near  Toulon,  in  France,  about  the  year  1590.  The 
double  flowering  variety,  was  obtained  from  the  seed,  by  Monsieur 
Le  Cour,  of  Leden,  in  Holland  ;  who,  for  many  years,  was  so  tena- 
ceous  of  the  roots,  even  after  he  had  propagated  them  in  such  plen- 
ty, as  to  have  more  than  he  could  plant,  that  he  caused  them  to  be 
cut  in  pieces,  to  have  the  vanity  of  boasting,  that  he  was  the  only 
person  in  Europe  that  possessed  this  flower.  It  appears  from  Eve- 
lyn's KalendaT)  that  it  was  cultivated  in  England  in  1664  ;  from 
whence,  no  doubt,  it  was  imported  into  America. 

To  have  this  fragrant  flower  in  tolerable  early  perfection,  you 
may  about  the  first  of  this  month,  or  any  time  in  March,  plant  a 
lew  roots  in  pots  of  light  rich  mould,  one  in  each,  first  stripping 
off  the  offsets,  for  if  these  are  left  on,  they  will  draw  away  a  consi- 
derable part  of  the  nourishment,  whereby  the  bloom  will  be  greatly 
weakened.  The  upper  part  of  the  roots,  when  planted  in  fiats, 
should  only  be  covered  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep  :  imme- 
diately plunge  the  pots  to  their  rims  in  a  hot-bed,  and  give  but 
very  little  water,  if  any,  until  the  plants  are  up  and  growing  freely, 
but  afterwards,  they  will  require  a  good  supply.  As  the  weather 
gets  warm,  give  them  plenty  of  air,  and  also  sufficient  head-room, 
till  the  middle  of  May  j  then,  place  them  where  designed  to  flower ; 
first  tying  the  advancing  stems,  to  small  green  painted  sticks,  to 
prevent  their  being  dashed  about  by  the  winds. 

The  time  for  planting  these  roots  in  the  open  ground  is,  in  the 
southern  states,  between  the  first  and  twentieth  of  this  month,  the 
more  northerly,  the  later  ;  in  the  middle  states,  the  last  week  in 
April,  or  first  ten  days  of  May  ;  and  in  the  eastern  states,  between 
the  fifteenth  and  twentieth  of  May. 

Prepare  for  them  beds  of  rich  sandy  loam,  which  being  well  trench- 
ed or  dug,  divest  the  roots  of  all  the  larger  offsets,  or  of  the  whole, 
if  the  flowers  are  the  exclusive  objects,  and  plant  them  in  rows  one 
foot  asunder,  and  eight  inches  distant  from  one  another  therein  ; 
making  small  drills  for  their  reception,  and  covering  their  crowns, 
or  upper  parts,  about  an  inch  or  an  inch  and  a  half  deep,  with  fine 
loose  earth  ;  they  will  require  no  further  care,  but  to  keep  them 
free  from  weeds,  and  to  support  their  flower  stems,  till  November, 
when  the  roots  are  to  be  taken  up,  and  managed  as  then  directed, 
except  to  cut  oft'  the  stems  after  the  bloom  is  over.  The  offsets 
are  to  be  planted  in  like  manner,  but  someweat  closer,  to  produce 
blowing  roots,  for  the  ensuing  season,  as  the  old  ones  seldom  flower 
>vcll  the  second  year,  though  they  will  increase  abundantly. 


350  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [APIUL. 


Scarlet  Amaryllis. 

The  Amaryllis  formosissima,  Scarlet  Amaryllis,  or  Jacobaca  Lily  ; 
is  a  flower  of  extraordinary  beauty.  The  flower-stems  are  frequent- 
ly produced  towards  the  sides  of  the  bulbs,  generally  not  more  than 
two,  which  rise  successively,  so  that  after  the  flower  produced  on 
one  is  decay  cc*  another  stalk  arises  nearly  opposite  to  succeed  it; 
but  there  is  usually  not  more  than  one  flower  on  the  same  stalk. 
The  flowers  are  large,  and  of  a  very  deep  red  ;  the  under  petals 
hang  down,  the  upper  curl  up,  and  the  whole  flower  stands  nodding 
on  one  side  of  i(^e  stalk,  making  a  most  beautiful  and  grand  appear- 
ance. Sometimes,  but  rarely,  two  flowers  proceed  from  the  same 
spathe.  It  is  a  native  of  South  America.  *. 

Its  management  and  season  of  planting,  is  in  every  particular  the 
same  as  directed  for  the  Tuberose :  it  flowers  generally  in  about  a 
month  after  its  being  planted,  and  its  bulbs  do  not  ripen  sufficiently 
for  taking  up  before  November.  It  is  increased  by  offsets  from  the 
roots,  which  are  to  be  treated,  as  those  of  the  tuberose.  In  order 
to  have  a  succession  of  the  flowers,  you  may  in  the  middle  states, 
plant  some  of  their  roots  in  the  open  ground,  once  a  week,  from  the 
twentieth  of  April  to  the  middle  of  June.  And  if  the  roots  are 
strong  and  are  preserved  in  saw  dust,  or  the  like,  they  will  keep 
good  and  blow  well,  even  when  planted  at  that  late  period.  How- 
ever, the  roots  will  not  be  so  strong,  the  ensuing  season,  nor  the 
increase  so  numerous,  as  if  they  had  been  planted  in  due  time. 

These  can  be  made  to  J^wer,  during  any  of  the  winter  months, 
by  planting  some  of  the  strongest  bulbs,  which  were  taken  up  in  No- 
vember and  kept  dry  till  the  time  of  planting,  in  pots  of  light  good 
earth,  and  plunging  them  into  the  bark-pit  in  the  Hot-house,  or 
into  a  good  hot-bed  :  in  a  month  or  five  weeks  after,  or  sooner, 
if  the  heat  be  regular  and  brisk,  they  will  produce  their  very  ad- 
mirable flowers. 

Geraniums ,  Myrtles,  Balm  of  G Ulead,  &C. 

For  the  methods  of  cultivating  the  above,  and  other  Green-house 
plants,  see  the  article  Green-house,  in  this  month,  and  in  March. 

Gravel  Walks. 

New  Gravel  walks  may  be  made  any  time  this  month  ;  in  the 
making  of  which,  be  very  particular  in  the  choice  of  good  and  suit- 
able gravel  ;  as  to  colour,  you  must  be  governed  by  fancy  and  con- 
venience, but  as  to  quality,  it  should  be  coarse  and  lively,  containing 
a  due  proportion  cf  light  sandy  loam,  to  make  it  bind  close  and 
fiv-m,  at  all  seasons  ;  but  not  so  redundant  in  loam  or  clay,  as  to 
stick  to  the  feet  in  wet  weather  ;  nor  so  sandy,  as  to  become  open 
ami  loose  in  dry  weather.  As  to  the  dimensions  and  distribution 
of  gravel  walks,  see  page  59,  See.  Agreeably  to  the  designs  there  laid 
down,  or  lu  any  other  fancy  of  your  own,  stake  out  the  width  of  the 


APRIL.]  FLOWER-GARDEN.  351 

walk,  and  proceed  to  level  the  boundary  on  each  side,  corresponding 
to  the  adjacent  ground,  and  form  the  cavity  of  the  walk  for  the  re- 
ception of  the  gravel ;  observing  that  the  whole  space,  to  make  a 
permanent  and  good  walk,  should  be  dug  ten  or  twelve  inches  deep, 
to  allow  for  a  proper  depth  of  gravel,  both  to  prevent  weeds  rising 
from  the  ground  below,  and  worms  from  casting  up  the  earth  there- 
from ;  and  also  to  allow  a  proper  depth  for  turning  the  gravel, 
occasionally,  when  the  surface  becomes  foul :  the  earth  dug  out 
from  the  cavity  of  the  walk,  may  be  used  to  raise  and  level  any 
hollow  parts  on  each  side,  or  contiguously  situated  ;  which,  with 
the  edgings,  if  of  Box,  should  always  be  completed  before  you  be- 
gin to  lay  the  gravel. 

The  walks  being  thus  laid  out,  you  may  first  lay  any  stony  rub- 
bish, such  as  brick-bats,  small  stones,  Sec.  for  several  inches  deep 
in  the  bottom,  which  will  greatly  obstruct  worm-casts,  drain  off 
any  extra  moisture,  and  thereby  prevent  the  surface  from  becoming 
mossy  or  foul :  the  proper  gravel  is  then  to  be  laid  on,  six  or  eight 
inches  thick  ;  and  as  you  proceed  in  laying,  observe  to  rake  off  the 
coarse  parts  into  the  bottom  and  to  raise  the  middle  of  the  walk, 
higher  than  the  sides  in  a  gradual  rounding  form,  just  as  much, 
and  no  more,  as  is  sufficient  to  carry  off  the  wet  to  each  side.  The 
proportion  to  be  observed  is,  a  walk  of  four  feet  wide  should  be  one 
inch  and  a  half  higher  in  the  middle  than  at  the  sides,  and  for  every 
foot  after,  that  such  increases  in  width,  add  to  this  a  quarter  of  an, 
inch  for  the  centre  elevation.  Rounding  the  walk  too  much  would 
make  it  very  uneasy  to  walk  on,  and  of  an  unpleasing  appearance. 
Never  lay  more  in  one  day  than  you  can  finish  off  and  roll  effectually. 
Gravel  walks  should  now,  if  not  done  in  March,  be  broken  up  and 
turned ;  for  such  turnings  will  not  only  destroy  weeds  and  moss, 
but  will  render  them  much  more  agreeable  to  walk  on  ;  besides, 
the  fresh  and  lively  surface,  will  be  sightly  and  pleasing. 

Before  you  begin  to  turn  the  gravel,  the  edges  of  the  walks,  if 
of  grass,  should  be  first  neatly  dressed  with  an  edging-iron  such 
as  described  in  page  70  ;  or,  if  planted  with  box,  they  ought  to  be 
handsomely  trimmed  with  garden  shears :  any  borders  near  the 
walks  should  be  neatly  dug,  and  the  surface  raked  smooth  ;  for 
when  the  edges  and  borders  are  put  in  proper  order,  they  add 
much  to  the  general  neatness.  Proceed  then  to  dig  the  walk  five 
or  six  inches  deep,  or  whatever  depth  the  fine  gravel  will  admit  of, 
turning  the  surface  clean  to  the  bottom,  and  the  fresh  gravel  below 
to  the  top,  rounding  and  dressing  the  walk  neatly  after  you,  and 
rolling  the  whole  effectually  when  done. 

In  turning  or  laying  down  gravel-walks,  always  chose  dry  wea- 
ther, and  let  the  work  be  done  in  the  most  complete  order  ;  as  these 
contribute  very  materially  to  the  beauty  of  the  whole  garden. 

Roll  the  walks  once  a  week  regularly,  after  being  either  turned 
or  new  laid  ;  such  will  render  them  firm  and  neat,  and  also  greatly 
prevent  the  growth  of  weeds.  It  is  a  general  rule  among  neat 
gardeners,  who  are  allowed  sufficient  help,  to  roll  and  sweep  the 
gravel-walks  every  Saturday.  During  the  summer,  it  is  of  much 


352  THE  GREEN-HOUSfc.  [APRIL, 

advantage  to  give  a  good  rolling  after  rain,  which  will  preserve  a 
compact  smooth  surface. 

Grass  Walks  and  Laivns. 

Grass  walks  and  lawns  may  yet  be  laid,  in  the  middle  and  eastern 
.states,  if  done  in  the  beginning  of  this  month  ;  but  if  delayed  till 
the  weather  becomes  dry,  it  will  scorch  the  turf  and  render  the 
surface  disagreeable.  For  the  method  of  laying  and  making  them, 
see  page  296. 

The  Grass-walks  and  lawns  should  be  well  rolled,  in  the  early 
part  of  the  month  ;  and  afterwards,  as  the  grass  advances  in  growth, 
it  should  be  mowed  as  often  us  the  scythe  can  lay  hold  of  it,  for 
this  is  a  season  in  which  most  people  delight  to  walk  out ;  conse- 
quently the  walks  ought  to  be  kept  in  good  order.  Besides,  were 
this  neglected  in  spring,  the  grass  would  become  coarse  and  rank, 
and  be  some  time,  before  it  could  be  restored  to  its  proper  texture. 

Always  mow  this  short  grass  when  wet,  either  by  dew  or  rain, 
otherwise,  it  will  be  impossible  to  cut  it  close  or  even.  For  the  ge- 
neral care  of  grass-walks  and  lawns,  see  page  70. 

The  edges  of  all  your  lawns  and  grass-walks  should  now  be  neatly 
cut,  with  an  edging-iron,  if  omitted  in  last  month  ;  but  this  should 
be  particularly  done  to  those  edgings  next  gravel  walks,  always  be- 
fore the  gravel  is  turned  or  newly  laid  on,  and  afterwards  occasion- 
ally. 

Sticking  and  Trimming  Flow cr -plants. 

Examine  all  the  beds  and  borders,  and  place -convenient  sticks  to 
such  advancing  plants,  as  require  support ;  tying  them  neatly 
thereto,  which  should  be  repeated,  occasionally,  as  they  progress  in 
growth.  Let  them  be  made  or  cut,  in  proportion  to  the  usual  height 
of  each  respective  kind,  for  it  is  aukward  to  see  a  tall  stick  set  for 
the  support  of  a  plant  of  humble  growth. 

Weeds. 

Weeds  of  every  kind,  both  from  roots  and  seeds,  will  now  make 
rapid  progress  :  particular  care  must  be  taken  to  keep  the  beds  and 
borders  free  from  them,  as  on  this,  in  a  great  measure,  depend* 
much  of  your  success,  and  the  beauty  of  your  improvements. 


THE  GREEN-HOUSE. 

Gi-viiig  Air  to  the  Plants. 


MANY  of  the  Green-house  plants  will  now  begin  to  shoot  freely ; 
therefore,  it  will  be  necessary  to  give  as  much  air  as  possible,  con- 
sistent with  their  safety.  Open  the  windows  every  morning  when 


APRIL.]  THE  GREEN-HOUSE.  353 

the  weather  is  mild  and  calm,  and  let  them  continue  so,  till  the  cold 
of  the  afternoon  begins  to  increase ;  provided,  that  the  air  conti- 
nues moderately  warm  all  the  time.  ,Too  much  confinement  at 
this  season,  especially  towards  the  end  of  the  month,  when  the  heat 
of  the  weather  increases,  would  do  infinite  injury  to  the  plants  in 
general,  but  especially  to  the  early  shooting  kinds  ;  for  if  drawn  up 
weakly  in  the  house,  they  would  not  be  in  so  good  a  condition  to 
bear  a  removal  into  the  open  air  in  the  early  part  of  next  month,  as 
if  their  vegetation  had  been  retarded  by  the  admission  of  a  due  and 
salutary  circulation  of  air,  in  the  house,  at  all  favourable  opportu- 
nities. 

Watering. 

The  plants  will  now  require  frequent  waterings,  giving  only  a 
little  at  a  time  ;  but  especially  the  oranges,  lemons,  myrtles,  olean- 
ders,  African  heaths,  jasmins,  coronillas,  justicias,  arbutus,  laurus- 
tinus,  and  most  of  the  woody  kinds  :  and  also  the  herbaceous  green- 
house exotics,  will  require  to  be  occasionally  refreshed  with  mode- 
rate waterings. 

Let  the  whole  plants,  in  general,  be  often  looked  over,  to  see  where 
water  is  wanted,  and  let  such  as  need  it,  be  supplied  therewith,  ac- 
cording to  their  respective  necessities  ;  for  it  is  now  an  indispensi- 
ble  article.  But  moderation  and  discretion  ought  to  be  observed,  in 
the  dispensing  of  it,  especially,  while  the  plants  are  in  the  house, 
and  particularly  to  the  succulent  tribe.  The  latter,  such  as  Aloes, 
Agaves,  Euphorbias,  Cactuses,  Crassulas,  Stapelias,  Mesembryan- 
themums,  &c.  being  naturally  replete  with  moisture,  do  not  require 
much  water  ;  to  those  and  other  plants  of  the  same  nature,  it  should 
be  given,  only  when  the  earth  in  the  pots  appears  very  dry,  as  too 
much  would  rot  them. 

Shifting  Plants  into  larger  Pots  and  Tubs. 

Such  of  your  plants  as  require  to  be  shifted,  into  larger  pots,  or 
tubs,  may  now  be  brought  out  in  a  mild  warm  day,  and  taken  out  of 
the  pots  or  tubs  in  which  they  have  stood,  with  the  balls  of  earth 
entire,  about  their  roots  ;  then  cut  away  such  roots,  on  the  outside, 
as  are  matted  or  appear  dry  or  decayed,  and  also,  some  of  the  earth 
round  the  ball. 

Having  good,  sound,  fresh  earth,  in  readiness,  put  some  into  each 
new  pot  or  tub,  previously,  placing  a  hollow  oyster  shell,  or  such 
like,  with  the  concave  side  under,  over  each  hole  in  the  bottoms  ; 
then  set  each  plant,  with  its  ball  of  earth,  prepared  and  dressed  as 
above,  into  the  middle  of  the  pot  or  tub,  and  fill  it  up  with  fresh  com- 
post, so  as  that  the  new  earth  may  cover  the  crowns  of  the  roots, 
an  inch  deeper  than  before. 

According  as  the  plants  are  thus  potted,  let  them  be  immediate- 
ly watered,  and  returned  to  their  places  in  the  green-house,  admi- 
nistering the  water  occasionally  afterwards,  as  their  respective  ne- 
cessities may  require. 

z  z 


354  THE  GREEN-HOUSE.  [APRIL, 


Fre&h  Earthing  the  Plants. 

Such  of  the  plants,  as  do  not  require  shifting,  into  larger  pots, 
Sec.  should  be  refreshed  with  new  earth,  as  directed  in  page  300  ; 
after  which,  give  them  a  moderate  watering  and  replace  them  in 
the  green-house,  as  before. 

Trimming  and  Cleaning  the  Plants. 

Where  any  decayed,  straggling,  or  ill  placed  branches  appear, 
either  cut  them  off  close,  or  prune  them,  so  as  to  give  the  plants* 
a  neat  and  becoming  form. 

Pick  off  all  decayed  leaves  as  they  appear,  and  suffer  no  weeds 
of  any  kind  to  grow  in  the  pots  ;  keep  them  free  from  moss,  Sec.  by 
stirring  the  surface  earth  frequently  :  wash  and  clean  the  floor  of  the 
green-house,  and  let  every  thing  in  and  about  it,  appear  neat  and 
lively. 

Where  any  large  leaved  kinds,  have  contracted  foulness,  wash 
them,  one  by  one,  with  a  spunge  dipped  in  soft  water;  the  small 
leaved  sorts,  may  be  taken  out  of  the  house,  in  a  warm  day,  and 
water  poured  over  them,  out  of  a  watering  pot,  which  will  not  only- 
wash  off  the  dust,  but  greatly  refresh  them  ;  then  replace  them 
as  before. 

Heading  do^m  Shrubby  Plants. 

Myrtles,  oranges,  lemons,  geraniums,  and  several  other  woody 
plants,  that  have  got  into  a  bad  state  of  health,  may  now  be  headed 
down  ;  observing,  that  any  of  the  budded  kinds,  should  not  be  cut 
off,  below  where  they  were  worked,  except  in  cases  of  absolute  ne- 
cessity ;  that  is,  when  the  wood  is  either  dead  so  far,  or  in  such  a 
state,  that  no  hopes  remain  of  its  producing  new  shoots  ;  under  such 
circumstances,  you  may  head  them  down  to  the  fresh  wood. 

By  this  means  they  will  put  out  plenty  of  strong  shoots,  near, 
or  from  the  stems,  and  form  full  regular  heads,  in  two  or  three 
months. 

Shifting  or  fresh  earthing  the  plants,  as  before  directed,  will  be 
accessary  upon  this  occasion. 

Inarching. 

Towards  the  latter  part  of  the  month,  you  may  inarch  oranges, 
lemons,  citrons,  limes,  shaddocks,  pomegranates,  and  almost  every 
other  kind  of  shrubby  plants,  agreeable  to  the  directions  given  in 
page  249. 

By  way  of  curiosity,  or  as  required,  you  may  inarch  a  branch  of 
an  orange,  or  lemon  tree,  that  has  young  fruit  on  it,  on  one  of  the 
common  seedling  stocks  :  it  will  be  well  united  by  the  end  of  Au- 
gust, when  it  may  be  separated  from  the  mother  plant,  in  a  full  bear- 
ing state. 


THE  GREEN-HOUSE.  355 


Solving  Seeds  of  Green-House  Plants,  &c. 

As  early  in  this  month  as  possible,  sow  the  seeds  of  Geraniums, 
myrtles,  oleanders,  Coronillas,  lemons,  oranges,  balm  of  Gillead, 
Aloes,  Cannas,  Bucldleias  and  Cactuses  ;  Callicarpa,  Caparis,  Cel- 
cias  Mimosas,  Mesembryanthemums,  Centaureas  and  Chrysoco- 
mas ;  Cinerias,  Cistuses,  Coluteas,  Cyclamens,  Dolichoses,  Ericas 
and  Euphorbias ;  Ferrarias,  Gardenias,  Genistas,  Heliotropiums, 
Indigoferas,  and  Lyciums ;  Melias,  Melianthuses,  Oleas,  Passiflo» 
ras,  Solanums,  and  Proteas,  Salvias,  Silcnes,  Spartiums,  Teu- 
criums,  Yuccas,  and  Xeranthemums,  with  many  others ;  for 
which,  see  the  Catalogue  of  Green-house  plants.  For  the  method 
of  sowing  them,  see  page  300.  Many  kinds  will  not  vegetate 
for  two,  three,  four  or  six  months,  and  some,  not  sooner  than 
twelve  ;  therefore,  attend  the  pots  carefully,  and  your  patience  and 
trouble,  will  be  ultimately  rewarded. 

Propagating  Green-house  Plants  by  Cuttings,  Suckers,  and 
Layers,  &c. 

There  are  few  shrubby  plants,  but  may  be  propagated  by  layers ; 
these  should  be  laid  in  the  pots  or  tubs,  agreeably  to  the  methods 
directed  in  page  279. 

Suckers  may  now  be  taken  off,  where  they  appear,  and  be  planted 
in  separate  pots,  or  several  small  ones,  in  the  same  pot. 

The  far  greater  number  of  all  the  green-house  plants,  may  now 
be  plentifully  propagated  by  cuttings  or  slips  ;  such  as  Laurusti- 
nus,  myrtles,  Geraniums,  Balm  of  Gillead,  and  Fuschia  coccinea ; 
Jasmines,  Gardinias,  Hydrangeas,  English  and  Portugal  Laurels ; 
Oleanders,  Passion-flowers,  Justicias,  Lagerstrcemia,  Heliotropiums, 
Coronillas  and  Melianthuses  ;  Acuba  and  Camilla  Japonica,  Budd- 
leias,  Solanums,  Teucriums,  Proteas,  and  Salvias,  with  almost  every 
other  kind,  if  planted  in  hot-beds,  and  carefully  shaded  and  water- 
ed. Such  as  do  not  root  freely,  should  have  bell-glasses  placed 
over  them,  in  the  hot-bed  till  rooted;  this  is  the  most  effectual  way 
to  insure  the  growth  of  many  hard-woocled  kinds. 

The  roots  of  herbaceous  plants  may  now  be  separated  and  plant- 
ed in  different  pots,  for  increase  ;  the  succulent  kinds,  may  also 
he  propagated  by  slips,  cuttings,  and  suckers,  such  as  Cactuses, 
Stapelias,  Mesembryanthemums,  &c.  The  succulent  sorts  should 
not  be  planted,  for  a  few  days  after  having  been  taken  off,  that  the 
wounds  may  heal ;  during  which  time,  they  may  lie  on  a  shelf  in 
the  green-house,  and  when  fit,  plant  them  in  pots  of  good  sandy- 
earth. 

The  young  orange  and  lemon  stocks,  raised  last  year,  for  bud- 
ding, should  now,  if  not  done  before,  be  planted  into  separate  and 
suitable  sized  pots ;  and  if  then  plunged  in  a  hot-bed,  till  they  have 
taken  fresh  root,  it  v/ill  greatly  promote  their  growth.  Some  of 
the  strongest  will,  probably?  be  of  sufficient  size  to  bud  in  August, 
and  all  of  them  at  that  time  twelve  months. 


356  THE  HOT-HOUSE,  [APRIL, 


Cafie  Bulbs. 

Many  of  the  Cape  Bulbs,  mentioned  in  page  159,  will  be  now  in 
flower ;  they  should  all  be  kept  in  the  front  parts  of  the  green- 
house, and  have  plenty  of  air  ;  without  which,  they  will  spindle  up 
and  never  show  either  strong  or  brilliant  flowers  ;  such  as  are  in 
blow  however,  are,  when  the  sun  shines  too  powerfully  on  them, 
to  be,  for  the  moment,  removed  out  of  its  rays,  or  it  will  facilitate 
their  decline. 


THE  HOT-HOUSE. 


Pine 

In  this  month  it  will  be  easy  to  distinguish,  which  of  the 
Pines  are  likely  to  produce  the  best  fruit ;  this  is  not  always  com- 
mon to  the  largest  plants.  A  few  of  the  most  promising  being 
marked,  a  small  iron  rod,  made  with  a  sharp  angular  point,  may  be 
thrust  down  the  centre  of  each  sucker  arising  therefrom,  which  be- 
ing turned  two  or  three  times  round,  will  drill  out  the  heart  and  pre- 
vent its  growth.  Thus  the  plants,  being  sufficiently  supplied  with 
water,  and  having  nothing;  to  support  but  the  fruit,  will  sometimes 
grow  amazingly  large.  But  this  method  is  not  to  be  practised  on 
too  many  plants,  as  it  would  be  attended  with  the  entire  loss  of  all 
the  suckers. 

Watering  the  Pines, 

In  the  West  Indies,  where  Pines  grow  in  the  greatest  perfection, 
rains  are  very  unfrequent,  during  the  period  that  this  fruit  is  com- 
ing to  maturity,  but  the  dews  are  remarkably  heavy  ;  therefore  it 
is  principally  supplied  with  moisture  from  the  latter  ;  in  imitation 
of  which,  you  should  raise  artificial  dews,  in  the  hot-house,  by  wa- 
tering the  walks  and  flues  frequently,  in  dry  weather.  This  will 
be  found  extremely  beneficial,  not  only  to  the  Pine  Apple,  but  to  all 
other  plants,  which  are  natives  of  similar  climates  ;  and  by  this 
management,  they  will  require  much  less  water,  than  they  other- 
wise would.  However  regular  waterings,  taking  care  to  give  but  a 
little  at  a  time,  just  to  keep  the  earth  moderately  moist,  will  be 
necessary. 

To/i  and  Bottom  Heat. 

Continue  to  support  the  requisite  heat  in  the  hot-house,  by  aid 
of  moderate  evening  fires,  and  u  constant  good  heat  in  the  bark-bed : 


APRIL>]  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  357 

the  fruiting  plants,  in  particular,  will  require  this.  If  the  bark  was 
not  turned  and  fresh  tan  added  thereto,  in  March,  it  should  be  done 
in  the  first  week  of  this  month,  as  there  directed.  But  if  then  at- 
tended to,  th,cre  is  no  necessity  for  it  now,  as  the  pit  will  yet  con- 
tinue to  be  in  excellent  order. 


Air  should  now  be  admitted  in  proportion  to  the  er.creasingheat 
©f  the  season  ;  a  great  deal  depends  on  this  article  ;  for  without  due 
attention  to  its  utility  and  great  influence  on  the  plants,  they  may, 
if  deprived  of  a  sufficiency,  be  soon  rendered  of  little  value. 

Every  warm,  sunny  day,  when  the  wind  is  not  cold,  let  some  of 
the  glasses  or  lights,  be  opened  a  little  way,  and  more  in  propor- 
tion to  the  heat  of  the  day  ;  but  this  should  not  be  done  before  nine 
or  ten  o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  they  ought  not  to  be  continued 
open  longer,  than  while  the  air  in  the  house  keeps  up  to  a  proper 
degree  of  warmth. 

Towards  the  end  of  the  month,  you  will  find  that  a  sufficiency  of 
air  cannot  be  admitted  by  the  upright  glasses  ;  therefore,  it  will  be 
very  necessary,  to  have  your  roof  lights  constructed  so  as  to  slide 
up  and  down,  by  means  of  pullies.  Seventy  or  seventy-two  degrees 
of  Fahrenheit,  will  be  a  good  medium  for  sun-heat  ;  but  always 
when  it  rises  above  that,  give  abundance  of  air,  and  in  the  early 
part  of  the  month,  this  is  done  with  more  safety,  by  sliding  open 
a  sufficient  number  of  the  roof-lights. 

Succession  Pines, 

The  succession  pines,  especially  those  intended  for  fruiting  next 
season,  should  be  shifted  as  early  in  this  month  as  possible,  if  not 
done  in  March.  For  the  method  of  doing  it,  and  the  manner  of 
treating  them  after,  see  page  302. 

The  crowns  and  suckers  of  last  season,  should  now,  also,  be  shift- 
ed into  larger  pots,  and  managed  in  like  manner. 

Treatment  of  the  other  "various  Stove  Plants. 

The  general  treatment  directed  for  the  pines,  may  be  given  in 
common,  to  most  other  stove  plants.  With  respect  to  shifting,  or 
adding  fresh  earth  to  the  pots,  that  should  now  be  done  in  the  same 
manner  as  directed  for  the  green-house  plants;  after  which,  if 
there  be  room  in  the  bark  -bed,  let  the  pots  be  immediately  plunged 
to  their  rims  therein  ;  and  by  the  assistance  of  the  kindly  heat,  the 
plants  will  root  freely  in  the  new  earth,  which  will  give  them 
strength,  promote  their  health,  revive  their  colour,  and  prepare 
them  the  better,  for  a  removal,  into  the  open  air,  towards  the  end 
of  next  month. 

The  woody  kinds  will  now  require  frequent  and  gentle  waterings  ; 
the  herbaceous,  occasionally  ;  but  the  succulent  sorts,  should  get 


35$  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  [APRIL, 

only  a  little,  now  and  then,  as  the  earth  in  the  pots  seems  to  stand 
in  need  of  it. 

When  any  of  the  stove  plants  have  contracted  much  dust  or 
other  foulness,  such  must  be  cleaned  off  immediately  ;  all  decayed 
leaves  should  constantly  be  picked  away,  and  the  utmost  cleanness 
preserved  in  all  the  house. 

Where  insects  appear  on  the  pines,  or  on  any  of  the  other  plants, 
immediate  attention  ought  to  be  paid  to  the  destruction  of  them  ; 
for  in  a  short  time,  if  neglected,  they  would  overrun  the  house  and 
ruin  many  of  the  plants.  For  the  methods  of  extirpating  them,  see 
article  Hot-house  for  February •,  page  1 60,  &c. 

The  paying  of  due  attention  to  all  the  plants,  giving  them  suita- 
ble care  and  culture,  preserving  them  in  good  health,  and  keeping 
the  house  constantly  clean,  and  the  plants  free  from  decayed  leaves 
and  filth,  is  the  surest  method  of  not  being  much  troubled  with  in- 
sects. 

Propagating  -various  Stove  Exotics. 

You  may  now  propagate  by  cuttings,  layers,  suckers,  or  seeds, 
the  various  plants  of  this  department.  Plant  the  cuttings  in  pots, 
plunge  them  in  the  bark-bed,  and  the  kinds  that  grow  by  that  me- 
thod, which  are  very  numerous,  will  strike  root  freely  ;  and  indeed 
there  are  very  few  sorts  but  may  be  cultivated  in  this  way,  if  cover- 
ed close  for  some  time  with  bell-glasses,  to  preserve  a  moist  at- 
mosphere around  them,  till  they  establish  themselves  in  the  earth, 
and  are  able  to  draw  therefrom,  a  sufficient  supply  of  juices,  to  re- 
place those  which  might  be  exhaled  by  the  open  dry  air. 

You  may  in  like  manner,  strike  cuttings  of  many  sorts  of  green- 
house plants,  and  of  any  curious  and  valuable  shrubs,  of  the  open 
ground  departmennts. 

Sow  seeds  of  all  hot-house  plants,  that  you  are  able  to  procure, 
and  wish  to  cultivate ;  let  them  be  sown  in  pots,  and  if  room  can 
be  had,  plunge  these  in  the  bark -bed,  give  them  occasional  water- 
ing, and  you  may  expect  many  kinds  to  come  up  shortly,  and  seve- 
ral others  not  for  months.  The  laying  of  panes  of  glass  over  these 
pots,  will  facilitate  the  growth  of  the  seeds,  by  opposing  the  ascend- 
ing moisture,  and  retaining  it  about  the  surface  of  the  earth ;  but 
bell-glasses  would  more  effectually  answer  this  end. 

Care  of  several  Fruiting,   Flowering,   and  Esculent  Plants   in  the 

Stove. 

Pay  due  attention  to  the  regular  watering,  of  the  strawberries, 
kidney-beans,  cucumbers,  and  flowers,  now  forcing  in  the  stove  ; 
and  early  in  the  month,  introduce  others  to  succeed  them. 

Continue  to  keep  the  grape-vines,  now  fruiting,  free  from  all 
unnecessary  shoots,  and  such  as  are  produced  from  the  axillas  of 
the  leaves,  Sec.  and  train  the  others,  close  and  regular. 


HAY.]  359 

MAY, 

WORK  TO  BE  DONE  IN  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN". 

Early  Melons  and   Cucumbers, 

THE  early  melons  will  now  shew  fruit  abundantly  ;  they  must 
have  plenty  of  air,  and  protection  from  the  mid-day  sun  ;  for  a  few 
hours  sunshine  at  this  season,  if  the  glasses  were  close  shut,  would 
destroy  the  whole  crop.  The  lights  should  be  taken  off,  and  the 
plants  fully  exposed  to  the  open  air,  about  the  twentieth  or  towards 
the  end  of  the  month  ;  therefore,  the  plants  ought  to  be  previously 
and  gradually  innured  thereto.  Should  the  beds  happen  to  be  great- 
ly declined  in  heat,  about  the  first  of  this  month,  a  fresh  lining  of 
hot  dung  ought  to  be  applied;  for  at  this  period  of  their  fruiting,  a 
brisk  bottom  heat  is  necessary  to  the  free  swelling  of  the  fruit. 
The  advantage  of  this,  will  soon  appear  very  evident.  A  slight 
covering  ought  to  be  kept  over  the  glasses  every  night,  till  about 
the  tenth  of  the  month,  after  which,  they  will  need  it  no  longer  ; 
these  should  be  taken  off  early  every  morning,  for  light,  and  plenty 
of  air,  will  now  be  absolutely  necessary. 

According  as  the  melons  set,  place  a  piece  of  board  or  shingle 
under  each  fruit ;  this  will  preserve  them  from  the  damp  of  the 
earth. 

About  the  middle  of  the  month  the  frames  may  be  raised,  by 
means  of  any  kind  of  support  at  the  corners,  and  the  plants  be  suf- 
fered to  run  out  under  them,  and  by  the  end  thereof,  you  may  take 
them  totally  away. 

A  regular  supply  of  water  will  be  very  necessary;  and  although 
melons  do  not  require  as  much  of  it  as  cucumbers,  yet  a  sufficiency 
must  be  given. 

The  early  cucumbers,  will  now  be  in  full  fruiting,  and  will  re- 
quire plenty  of  air  and  water ;  they  may  be  fully  exposed  to  the 
open  air,  in  the  middle  states,  about  the  twentieth  of  the  month,  and 
in  the  eastern  states,  about  the  end  thereof. 

Making  Hot-bed  Ridges  for  Cucumbers  and  Melons. 

The  cucumbers  and  melons,  which  were  sown  last  month,  or 
late  in  March,  may  in  the  first  week  of  this,  be  planted  in  hot-bed 
ridges,  as  directed  in  page  305  ;  or,  the  seeds  may  be  sown  there- 
on, in  the  following  manner. 

The  ridges  being  made  and  earthed  as  directed  in  April,  page 
305,  mark  out  the  holes  for  the  seed,  four  feet  asunder,  and  in  form 
«f  a  shallow  bason,  about  an  inch  deep,  and  nine  or  ten  inches  wide. 
In  the  middle  of  each,  sow  eight  or  nine  seeds,  and  then  put  on  bell 
er  hand-glasses.  After  the  plants  have  been  up  ten  or  twelve  days, 


360  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  [MAY. 

they  must  be  thinned,  leaving  only  three  of  the  strongest  in  each 
hole,  drawing  a  little  earth  about  their  stems,  and  giving  a  light 
watering,  to  settle  it  close  to  the  roots. 

When  the  plants  have  two  rough  leaves,  they  must  be  stopped 
or  topped,  as  directed  in  page  113,  which  see.  This  operation  is 
very  necessary  to  throw  them  into  a  fruiting  state,  before  they  run 
tcomuch  into  vine. 

As  the  plants  advance  in  growth,  they  must  have  gentle  and  fre- 
quent waterings,  and  plenty  of  air  admitted,  by  the  raising  of  the 
glasses  on  props;  under  which,  suffer  them  to  run  out,  as  they  in- 
crease in  growth.  The  glasses  may  be  totally  taken  off  about  the 
end  of  the  month. 

Sowing  Melons  and  Cucunders,  in  the  cfien  Ground. 

About  the  tenth  of  this  month  will  be  a  good  time,  in  the  middle 
states,  to  sow  a  general  crop  of  Melons,  in  the  open  ground  ;  from 
a  week  to  a  month  earlier,  to  the  southward,  according  to  the  re- 
spective situations  ;  and  between  the  fifteenth  and  twentieth,  in  the 
eastern  states.  It  is  remarked  that  musk  and  watermelons,  cu- 
cumbers, pumpkins,  squashes,  gourds,  and  all  the  varieties  of  these 
families,  may  be  sown,  at  the  periods  in  which  people  generally 
plant  Indian  corn  ;  but  in  order  to  have  them  as  early  as  possible 
in  the  open  ground,  a  few  patches  may  be  sown  ten  days  or  more, 
before  the  dates  above  mentioned  ;  which  with  good  care  may  suc- 
ceed very  well,  especially  if  the  season  proves  favourable. 

For  the  varieties  of  the  Musk  or  Cantaleupe  Melons,  prepare  a 
piece  of  rich  sandy  ground,  well  exposed  to  the  sun  ;  manure  it  and 
give  it  a  good  digging,  then  mark  it  out  into  squares  of  six  feet 
every  way  ;  at  the  angle  of  every  square,  dig  a  hole  twelve  inches 
deep  and  eighteen  over,  into  which  put  seven  or  eight  inches  deep, 
of  old  hot-bed  dung,  or  very  rotten  manure ;  throw  thereon  about 
four  inches  of  earth,  and  mix  the  dung  and  earth  well  with  the 
spade,  after  which,  draw  the  remainder  of  the  earth,  over  the  mixture 
so  as  to  form  a  round  hill,  about  a  foot  broad  at  top.  Some  people 
vise  hot  stable  dung,  under  an  idea  that  its  heat  would  promote  the 
vegetation  of  the  seed  ;  this  is  a  mistaken  notion,  as  in  a  few  hours 
it  loses  all  it  had,  for  want  of  a  sufficient  quantity  being  together, 
to  promote  fermentation,  and  becomes  a  dryish  wisp,  unfit,  at  least, 
for  the  present,  to  afford  either  heat  or  nourishment  to  the  plants. 

When- your  hills  are  all  prepared  as  above,  plant  in  each,  towards 
the  c'ciitre,  eight  or  nine  grains  of  good  melon  seed,  distant  two 
inches  from  one  another,  and  cover  them  about  half  an  inch  deep. 

When  the  plants  are  up  and  in  a  state  of  forwardness,  producing 
their  rough  leaves,  they  must  be  thinned  to  two  or  three  in  each 
hill,  the  extra  number  in  some,  may  serve  to  fill  up  deficiencies  in 
others:  draw  earth,  from  time  to  time,  round  the  hills,  and  as  high 
about  the  roots  of  the  plants  as  the  seed  leaves  ;  when  fit,  stop- 
them  as  directed  in  page  115  ;  after  which,  keep  the  ground,  by 
hoeings,  perfectly  free  from  weeds,. 


MAY.]  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN. 


Squashes. 

Squashes  of  every  kind,  may  be  cultivated  as  directed  for  cucum- 
bers and  melons,  should  be  sown  at  the  same  time,  and  at  similar 
distances  ;  with  this  difference,  that  two  plants  of  these,  will  be  plen- 
ty for  each  hill,  and  that  they  are  easier  pleased  in  soil,  and  prepa- 
ration, than  the  others. 

Water  Melons. 

In  order  to  have  water  melons  in  good  perfection,  you  must  fix 
upon  a  piece  of  very  light,  rich,  sandy  soil ;  prepare,  sow,  and  ma- 
nage it,  in  every  respect,  as  directed  for  cucumbers  and  melons, 
only  let  the  hills  be  nine  or  ten  feet  distant  every  way. 

Pumjikins  and  Gourds. 

Pumpkins  will  require  to  be  ten  feet  distant  hill  from  hill,  two  or 
three  plants  will  be  sufficient  in  each,  they  are  not  so  tenacious  of  a 
particular  soil  as  either  melons  or  cucumbers,  but  will  grow  freely 
in  any  dry  and  tolerably  rich  ground  ;  they  are  to  be  sown  at  the 
same  time  as  directed  for  sowing  melons  and  cucumbers  in  the  open 
ground ;  and  should  be  kept  constantly  clean  and  free  from  weeds. 

The  various  kinds  of  gourds,  which  are  more  cultivated  for  orna- 
ment than  use,  may  be  sown  where  they  can  be  trained  to  trelaces, 
fences,  walls,  or  to  cover  arbors. 

When  you  intend  to  cultivate  either  melons,  cucumbers,  squashes, 
pumpkins,  or  the  like  kinds,  on  a  large  or  extensive  scale,  you  can 
prepare  the  ground  with  a  plough,  which  will  save  much  labour ; 
and  also,  afterwards,  as  the  weeds  advance,  plough  and  harrow, 
between  the  plants  till  they  begin  to  run,  after  which,  the  hoe  must 
be  used. 

Sweet  Potatoes. 

The  Convolvulus  Batatas,  or  sweet  potatoe,  is  a  native  of  both 
Indies,  also  of  China,  Cochin-china,  &c.  But  it  is  affirmed  that  it 
was  unknown  in  the  Philippine  and  Molucca  islands,  before  the 
Spaniards  brought  it  there.  In  Amboina,  Banda,  Ternate,  Sec.  the 
inhabitants  add  Castela  to  the  name,  as  having  received  it  from  the 
Castilians  or  Spaniards.  It  was  first  brought  into  Spain  from  the 
West-Indies,  or  Spanish  Main,  and  was  there  cultivated,  long  before 
the  Solanum  tuberosum^  or  common  potatoe,  was  known  in  Europe. 

The  sweet  potatoe  requires  a  very  light,  sandy,  and  tolerably 
rich  soil,  to  bring  it  to  good  perfection.  The  time  to  plant  it,  in 
the  middle  states,  is  the  first  ten  days  in  May  ;  or  more  generally 
it  is  planted  about  the  eighth  or  tenth  of  the  month.  It  is  remarked 
that  the  earlier  and  more  forward  crops,  are  always  most  produc- 
tive and  best  foe.  eating  ;  and  several  people  to  accomplish  this  end, 
first  sprout  them  in  hot-beds,  and  then  plant  them  out  in  the  fol- 
lowing manner. 

3  A 


362  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN. 

The  ground  being  first  well  pulverized  by  ploughing  and  har- 
rowing, Sec.  is  afterwards  laid  out  by  the  plough  in  squares,  of  four 
or  live  feet  each,  and  at  the  intersections  of  the  scores  or  furrows, 
hills  are  made,  in  the  manner  directed  for  melons  and  cucumbers,  in 
page  360  ;  into  each  of  these,  one  or  two  good  sets  are  planted,  and 
covered  about  an  inch  deep,  or  a  little  better ;  as  they  advance  in 
growth  the  hills  are  enlarged  by  drawing  the  earth  up  round  them 
with  a  hoe  ;  or,  by  first  cross  ploughing  the  ground,  harrowing  it 
with  a  very  narrow  harrow,  and  then  finishing  and  rounding  the 
hills  with  a  broad  hoe.  They  ought  to  be  kept  constantly  free  from 
weeds,  and  the  frequent  enlargement  of  the  hills,  will  encourage 
the  growth  and  increase  the  number  of  roots. 

When  they  are  cultivated  upon  a  small  scale,  in  gardens,  all  this 
work  may  be  performed  with  a  spade  and  hoe. 

Indian  Corn. 

The  Zea  Mays>  or  Indian  corn,  is  frequently  required  from  the 
gardener,  for  early  use.  For  this  purpose,  procure  some  seed  of  the 
earliest  kind,  and  select  a  piece  of  dry,  sandy,  and  tolerably  rich 
ground,  in  a  warm  exposure.  After  preparing  it  as  if  for  peas,  Sec. 
form  shallow  drills  about  two  inches  deep,  at  the  distance  of  six  feet 
from  each  other ;  drop  the  seed  therein  two  feet  and  a  half  asunder, 
and  two  grains  in  each  place  ;  strew  a  little  wood-ashes  in  the  drills, 
then  cover  the  seed  as  you  would  peas.  As  the  plants  advance  in 
growth,  earth  them  up  two  or*  three  times.  For  an  early  crop, 
you  may  plant  the  seed,  in  the  middle  states,  about  the  first  of  this 
month,  or  ten  days  earlier  should  the  season  prove  very  favour- 
able. 

This  method  is  exclusively  intended  for  the  garden  culture,  of 
the  small  early  kinds. 

Early  Cauliflowers. 

The  early  cauliflower  plants,  as  they  advance  in  growth,  should 
have  the  earth  drawn  up  about  their  stems,  and  in  dry  weather  be 
occasionally  watered  ;  which  will  cause  the  heads  to  grow  to  a  much 
greater  size,  than  they  otherwise  would. 

Towards  the  latter  end  of  the  month,  the  plants  will  begin  to  shew 
their  flowers,  when  they  should  frequently  be  looked  over,  and  as 
these,  appear  in  an  advanced  growth,  not  before,  let  some  of  the 
largest  leaves  be  broke  down  over  them,  to  defend  them  from  sun 
and  wet,  whereby  they  will  be  preserved  in  their  natural  colour, 
firmness  and  beauty  ;  for  if  left  fully  exposed  to  the  weather,  it 
would  change  their  peculiar  whiteness,  to  a  yellowish  hue,  and  oc- 
casion them  to  open  sooner,  than  if  treated  in  this  manner. 

Planting  Cauliflowers. 

The  plants  from  the  late  spring  sowings,  should  now,  according 
as  they  arrive  at  a  sufficient  size,  be  planted  out  as  directed  in  page 


"THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN. 

306.     Very  few  of  these  will  produce  flowers  till  October,  but  then> 
you  may  expect  some  fine  heads. 

Solving  Cauliflower  Seed* 

You  may  now  sow  cauliflower  seed,  for  a  late  crop.  Should  the 
plants  from  this  sowing,  not  produce  heads  before  November,  they 
are  then  to  be  taken  up  and  managed  as  directed  in  that  month  ; 
by  which  means,  they  will  continue  to  produce  fine  flowers  all  win- 
ter>  when  such  will  be  very  acceptable. 

Cabbages. 

Draw  earth  about  the  stems  of  your  early  cabbages,  and  all  others 
that  are  advanced  in  growth  ;  this  will  strengthen  them  considera- 
bly, and  cause  them  to  produce  fine  large  heads. 

The  earliest  will,  towards  the  middle  or  latter  part  of  this  month, 
begin  to  form  their  heads ;  when  they  may  be  greatly  forwarded  in 
their  whitening,  by  tying  their  leaves  together.  For  this  purpose, 
get  some  strong  bass,  or  small  osier  twigs,  go  over  the  plants  row 
by  row,  and  tie  such  as  begin  to  turn  their  leaves  inward  for  head- 
ing ;  first  gathering  all  the  leaves  up  regularly  :  do  not,  however, 
bind  them  too  close,  for  that  would  occasion  their  rotting. 

This  method  may  be  practised  with  a  few  early  plants,  but  by  no 
means,  with  the  principal  crop  ;  as  those  treated  in  that  way,  never 
produce  such  large  and  firm  heads  as  they  would  if  left  to  nature : 
however,  market  gardeners,  may  derive  some  advantage  from  it,  as 
the  early  produce  will  always  command  the  highest  price. 

Continue  to  plant  out  your  spring  cabbage  plants,  for  autumn 
and  winter  use  agreeably  to  the  directions  given  in  page  308.  Plant 
also,  at  this  time,  a  full  crop  of  red  pickling  cabbage  and  savoys.  All 
these  will  require  an  open  situation  ;  they  never  thrive  or  head 
well  near  trees,  walls,  or  shade  of  any  kind,  and  the  richer  your 
ground,  the  larger  sized  heads  will  you  have.  You  may  plant  some 
between  rows  of  forward  kidney-beans,  and  other  low  growing 
crops,  which  will  occupy  the  ground  when  those  are  off. 

Let  all  be  planted  out,  if  possible,  in  moist  or  cloudy  weather, 
and  immediately  after,  give  each  a  little  water,  unless  the  ground  is 
.already  sufficiently  saturated. 

Sow  now  some  early  York,  sugarloaf  and  other  close  quick -heart- 
ing kinds,  for  summer  and  autumn  use.;  likewise  savoys,  large 
drum-head,  flat-dutch,  and  any  other  of  the  large  late  heading  sorts, 
for  autumn  and  winter  cabbages,  and  also  some  of  the  red  pickling 
cabbage.  Sow  these  seeds  as  directed  in  page  308  ;  and  transplant 
young  advancing  seedlings,  into  beds  as  there  directed,  watering 
them  immediately,  and  giving  them  shade  for  a  few  days  if  neces- 
sary. 

Solving  Borecole. 

You  may  now  sow  a  principal  crop  of  green  and  red  curled  Bore- 
cole, for  autumn,  winter,  and  spring  use  ;  for  an  account  of  which, 
.see  pages  184,  and  309. 


3$4  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  [MAY. 

By  sowing  the  seed  early,  you  will  have  tall  strong  stems,  and 
large  bushy  heads,  sometimes  growing  to  the  height  of  four  feet  ; 
but  the  largest  are  always  obtained  from  the  spring  sowings  ;  how- 
ever, it  is  usual  to  continue  sowing  successive  crops  of  them  to  the 
end  of  July. 

The  seed  should  be  sown,  in  beds  of  open  ground,  tolerably  thin 
and  covered  lightly  or  raked  in  regularly.  In  dry  weather  it  will 
be  of  use  to  water  the  beds  occasionally,  both  before  and  after  the 
plants  are  up.  When  about  three  inches  high,  it  will  be  proper  to 
thin  the  seed-bed,  and  prick  out  a  quantity  therefrom,  at  four  inches 
distance,  that  the  whole  may  obtain  proper  strength  for  final  trans- 
planting. 

Towards  the  end  of  the  month,  those  sown  in  April,  should  be 
planted  out  into  beds  of  rich  sandy  soil,  in  the  manner  directed  for 
cabbages,  at  three  feet  distance  every  way,  and  afterwards  be  kept 
free  from  weeds  and  the  earth  drawn  to  their  stems  as  they  advance 
in  growth.  Those  intended  for  winter  use  should  never  be  planted, 
In  a  rich  fat  loam  ;  as  there,  they  would  become  too  succulent,  and 
consequently,  could  not  bear  the  frost,  as  well  as  if  growing  on  a 
gravelly  soil.  Such  as  are  designed  for  autumn  use,  may  be  plant- 
ed in  any  convenient  open  bed,  that  is  tolerably  rich. 

Brussels'  S/irouts  and  Jerusalem  Kale. 

The  Brussels'  sprouts  and  Jerusalem  Kale,  are  both  cultivated 
in  the  same  manner,  at  the  same  time,  and  for  similar  purposes,  as 
the  Borecole.  They  may  be  now  sown  and  treated  like  the  latter, 
with  this  difference,  that  two  feet  or  rather  two  and  a  half,  will  be 
a  sufficient  distance  for  the  final  transplanting  of  the  Jerusalem 
,Kale,  as  it  never  grows  as  tall  as  either  of  the  other  kinds. 

Turnefi  Cabbage  and  Turnep.  Rooted  Cabbage. 

For  an  account  of  both  these  varieties,  see  page  309.  The  seeds 
of  the  turnep  cabbage  may  now  be  sown  and  the  plants  afterwards 
treated  as  directed  for  cabbages ;  only  observing  not  to  earth  them 
up  above  the  swelling  bulb  on  the  stem.  The  turnep  rooted  kind, 
should  be  sown  on  a  bed  of  strong  rich  ground,  as  you  would  tur- 
neps,  and  treated  like  them  in  every  respect ;  observing,  to  thin 
the  plants  with  the  hoe,  when  advancing  in  growth,  to  the  distance 
of  about  sixteen  inches  apart.  Their  roots  will  be  much  larger  and 
better,  when  treated  in  this  way,  than  if  transplanted. 

The  early  sown  plants,  of  the  former  kind,  may  now  be  planted 
out,  and  afterwards  treated  as  above  observed, 

Broccoli. 

The  early  sown  broccoli  plants,  should  now  be  planted  out  into 
beds  of  good  rich  earth,  in  an  open  situation  ;  the  purple  kind  at 
two  feet  and  a  half  distance,  every  way,  and  the  white  at  the  clis» 
tance  of  ihree  feet, 


MAY.]  THE  KITCHEN-GARDE^.  355 

Broccoli  seeds  of  both  these  kinds,  as  well  as  of  any  other  variety 
which  you  would  wish  to  cultivate,  should  be  sown  early  in  this 
month  for  a  second  principal  crop,  for  winter  and  spring  use.  Sou- 
thern in  a  bed  or  border  of  rich  earth,  in  an  open  exposure,  each 
kind  separate  and  rake  them  in  regularly. 

In  the  middle  and  eastern  states,  where  the  frost  is  too  powerful, 
for  the  standing  out  of  these  plants  during  winter,  on  its  approach, 
they  must  be  taken  up,  and  planted  in  earth  up  to  their  leaves, 
either  in  cellars,  or  under  sheds,  where  they  can  be  protected 
from  wet  and  very  rigorous  frosts,  and  they  will  continue  to  produce 
their  fine  heads,  during  all  the  winter  months  ;  which  are  equal  to 
any  cauliflowers.  On  the  opening  of  spring,  plant  out  the  stalks 
of  the  purple  kind,  and  they  will  produce  abundance  of  the  most 
delicious  sprouts  ;  the  white,  do  not  answer  for  that  purpose. 

These  plants  even  if  hung  up  in  a  cellar,  would  shoot  forth  their 
flowers  or  heads,  pretty  much  about  their  usual  time.  For  a  more 
particular  account  of  them,  see  page  3 10. 

Management  of  Beans  in  Blossom. 

The  early  Mazagan,  long-podded,  Windsor,  and  all  the  varieties 
of  that  species  of  bean,  should  be  topped,  when  arrived  at  full 
bloom  and  the  lower  pods  beginning  to  set ;  this  will  greatly  pro- 
mote the  swelling  of  the  pods,  as  well  as  their  early  maturity  ;  for, 
having  no  advancing  tops  to  nourish,  their  whole  efforts  must  go  to 
the  support  of  the  fruit. 

This  should  be  performed  on  the  beans  in  general,  which  are 
now  in  full  blossom  ;  observing  to  let  the  stems  be  first  advanced 
to  such  a  due  height,  as  to  have  a  sufficient  quantity  of  pods  ;  the 
early  Mazagan  bean  may  be  topped  when  about  two  feet  high,  and 
the  larger  sorts  when  from  about  two  feet  and  a  half  or  yard,  to 
three  and  a  half  high,  according  to  the  growth  of  the  different  va- 
rieties, and  may  be  done  with  the  finger  and  thumb. 

But  with  respect  to  the  small  early  beans,  if  you  would  have  them 
come  in  as  soon  as  possible,  you  should  top  them  when  the  blos- 
soms at  the  bottom  of  the  stalks  begin  to  open. 

Be  very  particular  to  earth  up  the  stems  of  your  beans,  two  or 
three  times  in  the  course  of  their  growth  ;  as  this  is  absolutely  ne- 
cessary to  their  good  success,  and  plentiful  production. 

Sowing  Peas. 

To  have  a  regular  supply  of  peas,  let  some  be  sown  at  least  twice 
in  this  month  ;  but  where  a  constant  succession  is  wanted,  three  or 
four  sowings  will  be  necessary. 

The  best  sorts  to  sow  now  are  the  marrowfats,  Glory  of  England, 
Spanish  morotto,  green  and  white  rouncivals,  Imperial,  and  Sugar 
Poland,  these  being  the  finest  and  largest  sorts  ;  likewise  any  of 
the  hotspur  kinds,  and  Prussian  blue,  &c.  those  that  arc  sown  any 
time  in  this  month  will  yield  tolerable  good  crops. 


366  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  [MAY, 

The  earlier  in  the  month,  however,  that  those  or  any  other  kinds 
of  peas  are  sown,  the  more  abundantly  will  they  produce 

You  may  now  sow  some  of  the  tall  sugar  peas,  as  directed  in 
page  311,  to  which,  and  its  preceding  page,  I  refer  you  for  more 
general  instructions  on  this  subject. 

Sow,  early  in  the  month,  the  dwarf  sugar  and  dwarf  Spanish  peas, 
and  also,  Leadman's  dwarf ;  as  directed  in  page  310.  These  are 
all  very  delicious,  great  bearers,  and  do  not  require  sticks,  particu- 
larly, the  two  former  :  and  when  sown  at  this  season,  are  gene- 
rally, more  productive  than  the  taller  growing  kinds. 

Hoe  and  earth  up  the  peas,  which  were  sown  in  April ;  this  will 
greatly  strengthen  them  and  promote  a  plentiful  bearing  ;  and  also, 
pay  due  attention  to  the  sticking  or  placing  pea-pods,  to  the  young 
rising  crops,  as  soon  as  they  have  attained  the  height  of  five  or  six 
inches.  There  is  a  great  advantage  in  allowing  sticks  of  a  suitable 
height,  to  the  various  kinds  ;  for  the  produce  is,  generally,  not  only 
much  superior,  but  by  far  more  abundant,  often  to  more  than  double 
the  quantity,  produced  by  those  that  are  permitted  to  trail  on  the 
ground.  The  sticks  should,  not  only,  be  sufficiently  tall,  but  also 
branchy,  that  the  plants  may  readily  take  hold  ;  and  they  should  be 
prepared  fan  fashion,  so  as  the  side  branches  may  extend  only  along 
the  rows. 

They  should  be  placed  when  in  single  rows,  on  the  sunny  side  of 
the  drills,  as  the  plants  will  naturally  incline  that  way,  and  more 
readily  lay  hold  of  the  sticks  ;  or  there  may  be  double  rows  of  sticks 
placed  to  them,  as  directed  in  page  179. 

Transplanting  Lettuce. 

Take  advantage  of  moist  weather,  to  transplant  such  of  those 
sown  in  the  two  former  months,  as  are  now  fit  for  it.  The  ground 
should  be  fully  exposed,  not  encumbered  with  trees,  or  near  any 
kind  of  shade  whatever ;  for  these  plants  never  form  good  heads 
in  such  situations,  but  start  to  seed  immediately. 

Dig  the  ground  neatly  and  rake  the  surface  smooth,  then  dibble 
in  the  plants,  in  rows,  ten  or  twelve  inches  asunder,  and  near  the 
same  distance  from  one  another  in  the  rows  ;  water  them  imme- 
diately and  repeat  it  occasionally  till  they  have  taken  good  root. 

Such  as  are  intended  to  remain  for  heading,  where  sown,  should 
now  be  thinned  to  about  ten  or  twelve  inches  distance,  every  way, 
and  those  growing  among  other  general  crops,  ought  not  to  be  left 
Bearer  to  each  other  than  three  feet. 

Sowing  Lettuce  Seed. 

.  Lettuce  seed  of  various  good  kinds,  should  be  sown  two  or  three 
times  this  month,  that  there  may  be  a  constant  and  regular  supply 
of  this  very  wholesome  vegetable.  The  white  Silicia,  Grand  Ad- 
miral, India,  Aleppo,  Imperial,  Large  Royal,  and  green  Egyptian 
Cos,  are  very  proper  kinds  to  sow  now  ;  the  Aleppo  and  Egptian  Ccs, 
do  not  head  like  the  other  kinds,  but  if  tied  up  as  you  do  endive, 


HAY.]  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  367 

they  will  blanch  beautifully,  and  are  extremely  crisp  and  delicious. 
The  white  and  brown  Dutch,  Mogul,  New-Zealand,  and  large  cab- 
bage kinds,  are  excellent  sorts,  and  will  succeed  well  if  sown  in  the 
early  part  of  this  month. 

An  open  situation  must  be  chosen,  in  which  to  sow  the  seeds  ;  the 
ground  should  be  light  and  rich,  and  each  sort  sown  separately  and 
very  thin  ;  for  if  drawn  up  close  in  the  seed  bed,  they  will  never 
head  well. 

The  beds  wherein  these  are  sown,  should  be  frequently  refreshed 
with  water,  in  dry  weather,  to  promote  the  vegetation  of  the  seeds, 
and  encourage  the  growth  of  the  young  plants. 

Tying  up,  early  Lettuces. 

The  various  kinds  of  Cos  or  Roman  lettuce,  which  are  now  be- 
ginning to  gather  and  whiten  in  the  heart,  should  be  tied  up  with 
strings  of  bass,  which  will  forward  their  whitening,  and  render  them 
crisp  and  tender  for  eating ;  but  this  must  be  done,  only  by  degrees, 
or  as  they  are  wanted,  for  it  greatly  promotes  their  shooting  to 
seed. 

Sowing1  small  Sallading. 

Sow  a  variety  of  small  sallading  every  week  or  ten  days,  for  these, 
at  this  season,  shoot  on  to  seed  very  rapidly ;  such  as  cresses  OF 
pepper-grass,  lettuce,  rape,  radish,  mustard,  Sec.  Sow  the  seeds 
in  shallow  drills  on  shady  borders,  cover  them  lightly,  and  give 
them  occasional  waterings. 

Kidney -Beans* 

A  principal  crop  of  kidney-beans  should  be  planted,  in  the  first 
week  of  this  month,  and  successional  crops,  about  the  middle,  and 
also  towards  the  end  thereof. 

Any  of  the  dwarf  kinds  may  now  be  planted  ;  such  as  the  black, 
brown,  or  red  speckled ;  yellow,  cream-coloured,  negro,  canter- 
bury, white,  Dutch,  and  Eattersea  dwarfs.  The  cream-coloured* 
brown  speckled,  yellow,  and  white,  are  the  earliest  sorts,  and  should 
be  particularly  chosen  for  the  first  crop. 

Select  for  these,  a  piece  of  light  rich  ground,  for  in  such  they  will 
always  be  most  productive.  Let  drills  be  made  for  them,  with  a 
hoe,  about  two  feet  and  a  half  asunder,  and  an  inch  and  a  half  deep ; 
drop  the  beans  therein,  at  the  distance  of  two  or  three  inches  from 
one  another,  draw  the  earth  evenly  over  them,  and  rake  the  surface 
lightly  to  give  the  bed  a  neat  appearance. 

These,  upon  a  more  extensive  scale,  may  be  cultivated  to  great 
advantage,  and  to  the  saving  of  much  labour,  by  the  plough ;  in 
which  culture,  the  rows  will  require  to  be  three  or  four  feet  asun- 
der, for  the  convenience  of  ploughing  and  harrowing  between  them, 
for  the  destruction  of  weeds,  and  also  for  the  landing  of  them  with 
that  instrument. 


368  THE  &ITCHEN-GARt)EN.  [MAT. 

The  various  kinds  of  running-or  climbing  kidney-beans,  may  also* 
now  be  sown  in  drills,  made  four  or  five  feet  asunder,  and  the  seeds 
planted  double  the  distance  from  one  another  of  the  dwarf  sorts. 
The  large  white  Dutch,  common  white,  and  cream-coloured  run- 
ners, are  excellent  sorts  for  this  purpose  ;  they  are  very  productive, 
boil  well,  and  eat  very  tender. 

When  the  plants  come  up,  and  begin  to  push  their  runners,  then 
let  some  tall  sticks,  or  poles,  be  placed  to  each  row,  for  them  to 
climb  upon.  The  runners  will  soon  catch  hold,  and  twine  them- 
selves naturally  round  the  sticks  or  poles,  to  the  height  of  eight  or 
ten  feet,  or  more  ;  or  if  some  are  planted  in  a  row  close  against  a  wall, 
or  any  high  fence  or  building,  you  may  suspend  strong  pack-thread 
from  above,  six  inches  distance,  fastened  tight  at  both  ends,  the  lower 
of  which  may  be  tied  to  the  main  stem  of  the  beans  ;  and  the  run- 
ners will  readily  ascend  round  the  strings. 

The  Scarlet  runner,  though  in  Europe  considered  one  of  the  best 
bearers,  and  very  good  for  the  table,  is  here,  neither  productive  nor 
esteemed  ;  and  is  cultivated  exclusively,  for  the  beauty  of  its  flow- 
ers, and  for  covering  arbours,  &c. 

Carolina  and  Lima  Beans. 

What  is  commonly  called  the  Carolina  bean,  is  only  a  small  and 
early  variety  of  the  Lima  bean  :  it  may  be  planted  in  the  first  week 
of  this  month,  or  in  the  last  of  April,  if  a  favourable  season  and  the 
ground  sandy  and  dry  ;  they  may  be  cultivated  in  the  same  manner 
as  above  directed  for  the  running  kidney-beans  :  or,  in  hills,  as  they 
are  called,  at  the  distance  of  four  feet  every  way ;  planting  five  or 
six  good  beans  in  each  hill,  a  few  inches  apart,  and  covering  them 
about  an  inch  and  a  half  deep.  When  the  plants  are  up  a  few 
inches,  or  before,  if  more  convenient,  place  two  or  three  tall  poles 
to  each  hill  for  them  to  climb  on,  and  as  they  advance  in  growth, 
draw  the  earth  round  the  hills  up  to  their  stems. 

The  Lima  beans,  should  not  be  sown,  in  the  middle  states,  be- 
fore the  first  week  of  this  month,  when  vegetation  is  very  brisk ; 
for  they  ar every  subject  to  rot,  if  planted  in  cold  weather,  especial- 
ly if  the  ground  be  replete  with  much  moisture. 

They  delight  in  a  light,  sandy,  and  tolerably  rich  soil;  and  should 
be  planted  in  hills,  as  directed  for  the  Carolina  beans,  but  at  the 
distance  of  six  feet  or  upwards,  hill  from  hill,  four  or  five  beans  in 
each  ;  and  the  poles  for  their  support,  ought  to  be  strong  and  near 
ten  feet  high.  They  are  very  productive,  will  continue  bearing, 
till  overtaken  by  the  frost,  and  are  extremely  delicious. 

Radishes. 

Hoe,  or  weed  and  thin,  the  advancing  crops  of  radishes,  as  di- 
rected in  page  312;  and  continue  to  sow  a  fresh  supply  every  two 
weeks,  as  at  this  time,  they  soon  shoot  to  seed  after  growing  to  any 
tolerable  size. 


THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  369 

The  salmon-coloured,  white  Naples,  and  white  turnep-rooted,  are 
the  best  kinds  to  sow  now  ;  you  may  likewise,  sow  some  of  the 
white  Spanish  radish,  they  bear  the  warm  weather,  rather  better 
than  the  other  kinds)  but  are  not  so  crisp  and  tender.  The  purple 
and  short-top  kinds,  will  yet  do  very  well. 

At  this  season  these  seeds  must  be  sown,  in  an  open  exposure, 
on  beds  of  rich  loose  loamy  earth,  for  if  on  a  clay  or  gravelly  soil, 
they  would  become  sticky  and  good  for  nothing :  in  order  to  have 
them  crisp  and  nice,  they  should  be  frequently  watered  in  dry 
weather. 

Planting  Radishes  for  Seed. 

Transplant  radishes  for  seed  when  the  roots  are  just  in  their 
prime  :  if  showery  weather,  it  will  be  a  particular  advantage. 

Choose  for  this  purpose^  some  of  the  best  kinds,  long,  perfectly 
straight  rooted,  and  with  short  tops ;  having  also  regard  to  the  co- 
lour of  the  root,  that  is,  if  of  the  purple,  or  short  topped  kind,  those 
that  are  of  a  clear  pale  red  are  preferable,  as  they  generally  eat 
more  crisp  and  mild,  than  such  as  are  of  a  darker  colour. 

When  intended  to  save  seed  of  the  salmon  radish,  always  prefer* 
the  best  and  brightest  coloured  roots,  to  preserve  the  kind  in  its 
purity,  and  particularly  those  that  have  the  shortest  tops. 

The  principal  reason  why  radishes  for  seed  are  directed  to  be 
transplanted  is,  that,  having  drawn  up  a  quantity  for  that  purpose, 
you  can  the  more  readily  judge  of  the  goodness  of  the  roots,  taking 
only  what  are  of  the  right  sort,  otherwise,  the  transplanting  of 
them  would  be  unnecessary,  and  those  not  so  treated,  would  pro- 
duce a  much  greater  quantity  of  seed. 

Plant  the  roots  by  dibble,  in  rows  four  feet  asunder,  in  an  open 
situation,  one  foot  from  each  other  in  the  row,  and  give  them  a 
good  watering  immediately  after. 

Select,  also,  some  of  the  best  formed  white  and  red  turnep-rooted 
radishes,  of  moderate  growth,  hoe  the  others  out  and  let  these  re- 
main for  seed  ;  or  if  necessity  requires,  you  may  transplant  them  ; 
in  that  case,  plant  the  bulbs  or  roots  entirely  in  the  earth,  leaving 
the  tops  free  and  then  water  them. 

Spinach. 

When  spinach  is  required  in  continuation,  some  of  the  round 
leaved  sort,  may  be  sown  in  a  cool  moist  loamy  soilj  every  eight  or 
ten  days  ;  for  during  the  summer  months,  it  starts  to  seed  imme- 
diately. 

Weed  and  thin  the  spinach  sown  last  month,  especially,  what  had 
been  sowed  in  the  broad  cast  way  ;  and  of  your  early  crops,  both 
of  the  round-leaved,  and  prickly-seeded  kinds,  leave  a  sufficiency  of 
the  best  plants  for  seed. 

Sowing  Carrots. 

Carrots  may  yet  be  sown,  especially,  in  the  eastern  states, 
with  a  good  prospect  of  success,  if  done  in  the  first  week  of  this 

3  B 


370  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  [MAT. 

month)  and  even  in  the  middle  states,  if  the  season  is  anyway  back- 
ward. For  the  proper  soil  and  method  of  sowing  them,  Sec.  see 
pages  182  and  313. 

Cleaning  and  thinning  Carrots  and  Parsnefis. 

Carrots  and  parsneps  will  now  be  advancing  fast  in  their  growth, 
and  should  be  properly  encouraged  :  clear  them  from  weeds,  and 
thin  the  plants  out  to  due  distances. 

This  work  may  be  done  either  by  hand  or  hoe  ;  but,  for  extensive 
crops  particularly,  small  hoeing  is  the  preferable  method,  as  being 
the  most  expeditious,  and  by  loosening  the  surface  of  the  ground 
with  the  hoe,  it  will  greatly  promote  the  free  growth  of  the  plants. 

Whatever  method  is  pursued,  it  will  be  necessary  to  free  the 
plants  from  weeds,  and  to  thin  them  to  proper  distances,  that  they 
may  have  full  liberty  to  grow  and  enlarge  their  roots.  The  gene- 
ral crops  of  carrots  should  be  thinned  to  about  six  or  seven  inches, 
plant  from  plant,  and  the  parsneps  to  from  eight  to  ten,  in  order 
that  each  kind  should  attain  its  utmost  perfection. 

« Such  crops  of  carrots,  however,  as  are  intended  to  be  drawn  gra- 
dually for  the  table,  while  young,  need  not  be  thinned  at  first,  to 
more  than  four  or  five  inches  distance,  as  the  frequent  pulling  up  of 
some,  for  table  use,  will  in  a  little  time  afford  the  others  sufficient 
room  to  grow  large.  But  'the  main  crops,  should  be  thinned  at 
once  to  the  proper  distances. 

Pricking  out  and  Planting  Celery. 

Some  of  the  early  celery  plants,  from  the  seed-beds,  should  now 
be  pricked  out,  to  obtain  strength  previous  to  a  final  planting  in 
trenches ;  by  this  mothod  those  left  in  the  beds  will  have  room  to 
grow  strong  and  stout.  They  should  be  planted  at  the  distance  of 
three  inches  from  one  another,  in  beds  of  rich  loose  earth,  watered 
immediately,  and  afterwards  occasionally,  till  growing  freely  :  when 
they  have  acquired  sufficient  strength  in  these  beds,  they  are  to  be 
planted  in  trenches  for  full  growth  as  directed  in  June. 

Let  those  remaining  in  the  seed-beds  be  watered,  to  settle  the 
earth  about  their  roots,  which  had  been  loosened  in  the  act  of  pull- 
ing out  the  others. 

When  of  sufficient  size  and  strength,  plant  out  into  trenches,  some 
of  your  earliest  sown  plants,  as  directed  in  the  Kitchen-Garden  for 
June. 

For  the  best  method  of  obtaining  celery,  in  early  perfection,  with- 
out the  assistance  of  a  hot-bed,  see  page  314. 

Sowing  Celery  Seed. 

Sow  more  celery  seed,  for  a  principal  later  crop  ;  let  this  be  done 
as  directed  in  page  313.  In  hot  sunny  weather,  the  shading  of  the 
bed  with  mats,  from  ten  to  four  o'clock,  would  greatly  facilitate  the 
growth  of  the  seed  ;  occasional  waterings  also,  will  be  very  service- 
able, and  in  a  dry  season  indispensible. 


THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  371 


Asparagus. 

Asparagus  is  in  the  best  state  for  cutting,  when  the  shoots  are 
from  two  to  four  inches  above  ground,  and  the  top  buds  or  heads 
remaining  close  and  compact ;  soon  after,  they  become  open  and 
of  less  estimation.  For  the  proper  method  of  cutting  them,  see 
page  184. 

Keep  the  asparagus  beds  perfectly  free  from  weeds,  and  let  it  be 
remembered,  to  terminate  the  general  cutting,  as  soon  as  you  per- 
ceive the  coming  up  roots  begin  to  appear  small,  or  weaker  than 
usual;  for  if  continued  cutting  too  late  in  the  season,  it  would  great- 
ly exhaust  the  roots,  and  the  next  and  succeeding  years'  produce,, 
would  be  diminished  in  proportion. 

Beets. 

Weed  or  hoe  your  early  crops  of  beet,  and  thin  them,  if  in 
beds,  to  one  foot  asunder,  or  if  in  drills,  to  eight  or  nine  inches  plant 
from  plant.  Continue  to  sow  more,  especially  of  the  red  beet,  for 
a  succession  crop,  which  will  succeed  very  well,  if  sown  in  the  early 
part  of  the  month.  A  full  and  abundant'  supply  of  this  very  excel- 
lent vegetable,  ought  to  be  cultivated  in  every  garden.  For  the 
methods  of  sowing,  see  page  18.7. 

Onions* 

The  onions  which  were  sown  at  an  early  season,  with  an  expec- 
tation of  their  growing  to  a  sufficient  size  for  table  use,  the  first 
year  from  seed,  should  now  be  perfectly  cleared  from  weeds,  and 
the  plants  thinned  to  about  three  inches  from  one  another,  being 
careful  to  leave  the  largest  and  best ;  they  should  be  thinned  at  an 
early  period,  and  kept  totally  free  of  weeds,  from  the  moment  of 
their  appearance  above  ground,  to  the  period  of  their  perfection. 

This  work  may  either  be  performed  by  hand,  or  with  a  small 
hoe ;  the  latter  is  the  quickest  method,  and  the  stirring  the  ground 
therewith,  will  be  of  great  service  to  the  growth  of  the  plants .: 
have  for  this  purpose  a  small  one-hand  hoe,  about  two  inches  broad, 
or,  in  want  of  this,  an  old  table  knife,  bent  a  little  at  the  end,  about  an 
inch,  by  heating  in  a  fire,  will  answer  very  well  for  small  or  mode- 
rate crops. 

The  plantations  arising  from  seed  onions,  should  now  be  kept 
very  clean,  and  also  the  late  sown  crops,  intended  to  produce  small 
bulbs  for  next  year's  planting. 

Turneps. 

Hoe  and, thin  your  advancing  crops  of  turneps,  and  sow  some 
more  of  the  early  Dutch,  or  early  stone  kinds,  for  a  succession  :  this 
sowing  should  be  performed  in  the  first  week  of  the  month,  in  or- 
der that  the  roots  should  have  time  to  grow  to  a  good  size,  before 


372  THE  KITCHEN-GARNEN  [MAY. 

their  being  overtaken  by  the  great  summer  heat  and  drought,  which 
are  very  inimical  to  them.  In  the  doing  of  this,  take  advantage 
of  moist  or  cloudy  weather,  or  immediately  after  rain,  and  sow  the 
seed  on  a  bed  of  good  mellow  ground,  thin  and  even  ;  tread  it  down 
find  rake  it  in  regularly. 

Hamburgh  Parsley^   Scorzonera^  and  Salsqfy. 

The  young  crops  of  Hamburgh,  or  large-rooted  parsley,  scorzo- 
nera,  and  salsafy,  must  now  be  carefully  cleaned  from  weeds,  and 
the  plants  should  be  thinned  or  hoed  out  to  proper  distances,  that 
their  roots  may  have  room  to  swell :  thinning  them  to  about  six 
inches  asunder. 

Early  in  this  month,  you  may  sow  principal  crops  of  salsafy  and 
scorzonera,  for  autumn  and  winter  use  ;  for  these  that  are  sown 
now,  will  not  be  so  subject  to  run  to  seed,  as  those  which  were 
sown  in  the  former  months,  and  their  roots  will  be  in  excellent  or- 
der for  the  table,  during  the  entire  autumn  and  winter.  For  a 
more  particular  account  of  these  plants,  see  pages  190,  191,  and 
315. 

Cafisicums,  or  Red-Pejifiers. 

Early  in  this  month  you  may  sow,  in  a  warm  exposure  on  a  bed 
of  rich  earth,  seeds  of  the  various  kinds  of  capsicums,  which  you 
desire  to  cultivate  ;  the  large  heart  shaped  kind  is  that,  which  is 
more  generally  used  for  pickling  ;  the  plants  from  this  sowing,  may 
be  planted  out  in  rows,  about  the  first  of  June. 

The  early  plants  raised  in  hot-beds,  should,  in  the  middle  states, 
be  planted  out  finally,  as  soon  after  the  twentieth  of  this  month,  as 
moist  or  cloudy  weather  may  occur  ;  the  rows  must  be  two  feet,  or 
a  little  better  asunder,  and  the  plants  one  foot  distant  from  one  ano-. 
ther  :  Avhen  planted,  give  each  some  water,  and  afterwards  keep 
the  ground  free  from  weeds. 

You  may  likewise  at  this  time,  sow  the  seeds  in  drills  at  the  above 
distance,  covering  them  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep  ;  and  when 
grown  an  inch  or  two,  thin  them  to  proper  distances ;  but  as  they 
bear  transplanting  extremely  well,  it  will  be  attended  with  less 
trouble,  to  raise  them  in  the  seed-bed,  and  afterwards  plant  them 
out. 

Tomatoes. 

Sow  the  seeds  of  tomatoes  in  the  first  week  of  the  month,  on  a 
warm  sandy  soil,  either  to  remain  for  fruiting,  or  for  transplanting 
as  directed  in  page  319. 

Plant  out  from  the  hot-beds,  about  the  middle  of  the  month,  or 
a  little  later,  if  the  season  is  not  favourable,  those  plants  which  are 
forwarded  therein,  and  at  the  distances  mentioned  in  page  319.  Or 
they  may  be  planted  close  to  palings  or  fences  of  any  kind,  to  which 
they  may  be  trained ;  but  a  support  of  some  kind,  will  be  neces-? 
sary,  in  order  to  have  them  in  the  best  perfection,  and  in  abundant 
Bearing. 


MAY.]  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  373 


Egg-Plant. 

If  omitted  to  sow  the  seed  of  the  egg-plant  last  month,  as  there 
directed,  some  should  be  sown  in  the  first  week  of  this,  on  a  rich 
warm  border,  to  raise  plants  for  planting  out,  when  about  three  or 
four  inches  high,  as  directed  in  page  319. 

About  the  middle  of  this  month,  or  soon  after,  according  to  the 
season,  you  should  plant  out  for  fruiting,  the  early  plants  of  this 
kind  which  were  forwarded  in  hot-beds.  A  rich  sandy  soil,  is  the 
most  suitable  for  them  :  the  purple  kind  will  require  to  be  two  feet 
and  a  half  asunder ;  and  for  the  white,  two  feet  will  be  sufficient. 
As  they  advance  in  growth,  draw  some  earth  to  their  stems,  in  like 
manner  as  to  cabbage  plants  ;  keep  the  ground  about  them  clean,  and 
you  may  expect  fine  fruit. 

Endive, 

Some  endive  may  now  be  sown,  for  an  early  crop  ;  but  at  this 
season,  it  is  very  subject  to  run  up  to  seed  :  however,  when  such  is 
required,  let  it  be  sown  on  an  open  spot  of  rich  ground,  tolerably 
thick,  taking  care  to  cover  it  evenly,  or  to  rake  it  in  well. 

The  white  and  green  curled  endive,  are  the  proper  sorts  to  sow 
now  ;  when  the  plants  are  about  three  inches  high,  they  should  be 
transplanted  into  beds,  at  the  distance  of  ten  or  twelve  inches,  from 
one  another,  and  immediately  watered,  taking  care  to  transplant  them 
in  cloudy  or  wet  weather,  if  such  should  occur  in  due  season. 

Towards  the  end  of  the  month,  you  may  sow  some  more  to  keep 
up  a  regular  succession,  and  although  it  is  very  difficult,  to  raise  it 
in  good  perfection  at  this  season,  some  families  must  have  it  at  all 
events. 

Okra. 

The  first  week  of  this  month,  is  a  very  proper  time,  to  sow  a  full 
crop  of  okra  ;  and  another  sowing  may  be  made  about  the  middle 
thereof,  for  a  succession  crop ;  the  seeds  will  now  vegetate  freely 
and  the  plants  advance  apace.  For  the  method  of  sowing  them, 
&c.  see  page  318. 

Nasturtiums, 

The  seed  of  the  nasturtium,  may  be  sown  in  the  first  week  of 
this  month,  as  directed  in  page  318  ;  but  the  early  crops  cf  this 
kind,  are  generally  most  successful. 

Sorre?. 

Either  the  common  garden  broad-leaved,  or  the  French  round 
leaved  sorrel,  may  be  sown  in  the  first  week  of  this  month,  as  di- 
rected in  pap-e  320.  Qr,  the  old  standing  roots,  of  either  kind, 


374  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  [MAY. 

may  be  separated  and  planted  for  increase,  in  beds  or  borders,  at 
the  distance  of  ten  or  twelve  inches  asunder  ;  this  would  have  heen 
better  if  done  last  month,  but  they  will  succeed  any  time  in  this,  if 
well  watered  immediately  after  planting,  and  repeated  at  intervals 
for  a  few  days.  When  the  plants  shoot- up  to  seed,  cut  them  down 
close,  and  a  new  crop  of  leaves  will  be  produced  :  this  may  be  re- 
peated, from  time  to  time,  during  the  summer  and  autumn. 

Sowing  Pot-herbs,  &c. 

Common  and  curled  parsley  may  now  be  sown,  where  it  had 
been  omitted  in  the  former  months ;  as  may  also,  the  seeds  of 
chervil,  sweet  basil,  coriander,  pot-marigold,  borage  and  burnet ; 
thyme,  summer,  and  winter  savory,  sweet,  and  pot  marjoram,  to- 
gether with  many  other  sorts  of  p'ot,  aromatic,  or  medicinal  herbs  ; 
observing  the  same  method  as  directed  in  page  199,  which  see. 
All  those,  with  every  other  kind  necessary,  should  be  sown  as  early 
in  the  month  as  possible. 

Propagating  Aromatic,  Pot,  and  Medicinal  Plants,  by  Cuttings  and 

Slips,  &c. 

You  may  yet,  if  attended  to  in  the  early  part  of  this  month,  pro- 
pagate the  various  kinds  of  pot,  physical  and  aromatic  plants,  men- 
tioned in  page  198,  and  in  like  manner,  as  there  directed  ;  but  they 
will  now  require  to  be  frequently  watered,  and  if  shaded  for  some 
time  after  planting,  the  better. 

Supporting  Plants  for  Seed. 

Now  support  the  stems  or  stalks  of  such  plants  as  were  planted 
for  seed.  The  onions  and  leeks,  in  particular,  will  require  this 
care ;  for  the  stalks  of  these  will  be  run  up  to  a  good  height, 
and  if  they^are  not  secured  in  due  time,  the  winds  and  heavy  rains 
will  break  them  down. 

The  best  method  of  supporting  these  plants  is  to  drive  some  firm 
stakes  into  the  ground,  along  the  rows,  placing  them  about  two  or 
three  yards  asunder  :  then  let  some  thin  long  poles,  or  strong  lines, 
be  fastened  from  stake  to  stake,  close  along  each  side  of  the  seed- 
stalks. 

Let  the  advancing  stems  of  the  different  kinds  of  cabbages  and 
other  tall  growing  plants,  that  are  now  shooting  to  seed,  and  are 
subject  to  be  borne  down  by  wind,  or  wet,  be  likewise  supported,  by 
placing  stakes  to  them  and  tying  them  thereto  securely  ;  or  by  any 
other  more  convenient  method. 

Cardoons. 

The  cardoons  which  were  sown  in  March  or  April,  ought  now 
to  be  thinned,  where  they  have  risen  too  thick,  that  the  plants  may 
have  room  to  grow  and  get  strength  by  next  month,  when  they 
should  be  planted,  where  they  are  to  remain  for'landing  up  to  blanch. 


MAY.]  THE  FRUIT-GARDEN.  375 

Thin  them  to  about  four  or  five  inches  distance  ;  or  some  may 
be  pricked  six  inches  asunder  on  a  nursery -bed,  to  remain  till  next 
month,  when  the  whole  should  be  transplanted  finally. 

Give  water  immediately  to  those  that  you  prick  out,  and  if  sunny 
weather,  shade  will  be  necessary  for  a  few  days. 

Destroying   Weeds. 

It  is  in  vain  to  expect  good  crops,  and  folly  to  go  to  the  expense 
of  seed  or  labour,  unless  you  keep  them  free  from  weeds,  and  par- 
ticularly, while  they  are  young  ;  therefore,  more  than  common 
care  should  now  be  taken,  to  destroy  weeds  throughout  the  whole 
garden,  but  more  especially  among  the  young  rising  crops.  It  is 
now  the  most  important  work  in  the  garden :  the  hoe  should  be 
applied  between  all  the  rows  of  peas,  beans,  cabbages,  and  every 
other  kind  growing  in  drills,  and  the  weeds  which  are  close  to  the 
plants,  be  pulled  up  by  the  hand. 

The  onions,  carrots,  leeks,  parsneps,  and  all  other  close  and  low 
growing  crops,  should  be  always  kept  free  from  weeds,  from  the 
moment  they  appear  above  ground,  till  grown  to  their  full  size. 
A  small  hoe  may  be  applied  where  it  will  answer,  but  where  not, 
hand-weeding  must  be  practised. 

Watering. 

Watering  in  dry  weather  is  very  necessary,  but  especially  to  the 
newly  transplanted  crops,  whether  young  seedlings,  or  plants  of 
larger  growth  finally  transplanted  ;  such  as  cabbages,  cauliflowers, 
lettuces,  celery,  Sec.  A  plentiful  watering  should  be  given  to  each 
plant,  immediately  after  planting  out,  and  repeated  occasionally  till 
all  have  taken  root  and  begin  to  grow.  Most  of  the  young  seed- 
ling plants  will  require  it,  now  and  then,  till  they  have  established 
their  roots,  and  extended  them  to  a  sufficient  depth,  to  be  out  of 
the  power  of  drought. 

Water  should  generally  be  given,  late  in  the  afternoon,  or  very 
early  in  the  morning,  but  the  former  is  preferable  ;  that  the  plants 
may  have  as  much  benefit  from  it  as  possible,  before  any  part  is 
exhaled  by  the  heat  of  the  ensuing  day. 


THE  FRUIT-GARDEN. 

Wall  Trees. 

IN  the  early  part  of  this  month,  look  over  your  wall  trees, 
and  where  you  perceive  a  superabundance  of  young  and  unnecessa- 
ry skoots  appearing,  either  rub,  nip,  or  cut  them  clean  off,  close  to 


3/6  THE  FRUIT-GARDEN.  [MAt] 

whence  they  were  produced,  being  particular  to  leave  a  plentiful 
supply,  of  such  as  are  good  and  well  placed  ;  and  when  of  due 
growth,  train  them  in,  at  full  length,  close,  and  regular.  The  long 
fore  right  shoots,  that  is,  such  as  project  directly  towards  the  front, 
ought  generally  to  be  displaced,  except  where  some  are  wanted  for 
laying  in,  to  fill  up  vacant  places ;  and  likewise,  any  extraordinary 
vigorous  growths,  arising  in  the  middle  of  the  tree,  unless  where 
necessary  to  be  preserved,  for  similar  purposes. 

Where  any  considerable  opening  appears,  and  that  but  one  or 
two  shoots  offer  in  such  place,  you  should,  after  these  have  grown 
about  a  foot  long,  shorten  them  to  three  or  four  eyes,  and  they  will 
soon  after  shoot  out  again,  probably,  one  from  each  bud,  to  furnish 
the  vacancy. 

Be  very  particular,  as  to  apples,  pears,  plums,  and  cherries,  not 
to  shorten  or  rub  off,  such  advancing  buds,  as  nature  has  intended 
for  fruiting-spurs,  which,  are  very  distinguishable  by  their  short 
thick  growth. 

JEsfialicrs. 

All  unnecessary,  ill  placed,  and  fore-right  shoots,  on  espalier 
trees  of  every  kind,  should  now  be  rubbed  off  or  cut  away  ;  they 
ore  only  robbers,  and  should  consequently  be  discarded ;  but*  in 
doing  this,  discretion  ought  to  be  observed,  and  an  abundant  sup- 
ply left,  to  furnish  the  trees,  and  to  discharge  such  parts  of  the  as- 
cending juices,  as  are  not  convertible  into  wood  or  fruit. 

Apples,  pears,  plums  and  cherries,  continue  bearing  many  years, 
on  the  same  spurs  or  branches,  and  do  not  require  such  a  general 
annual  supply  of  young  wood,  as  peaches  and  nectarines,  Sec.  which 
always,  with  very  fe\v  exceptions,  produce  their  fruit  from  the  pre- 
ceding year's  shoots ;  yet  a  sufficiency  should  be  left,  to  train  in 
between  the  main  branches,  and  a  leading  or  terminal  one  to  each 
branch,  unless  the  tree  has  already  extended  as  far  as  you  desire ; 
for  it  is  essentially  requisite,  to  leave  a  sufficient  number  of  the 
best  placed  shoots,  to  choose  from  in  the  general  winter  pruning. 
The  shoots  now  preserved,  should  be  trained  in  regularly  to  the 
espalier,  at  full  length  ;  for  the  reasons  assigned  in  the  winter  prun- 
ing, see  the  Fruit-Garden  in  January. 

Where  there  is  any  great  vacancy,  it  is  proper,  towards  the  latter 
end  of  this  month,  to  shorten  some  of  the  adjoining  young  shoots 
of  the  year,  to  three  or  four  buds,  to  cause  them  to  produce  a  supply 
of  lateral  branches  to  fill  the  vacant  places, 

Young  wall  and  espalier-trees,  that  are  advancing  in  a  training 
state,  should  also  be  attended  to  now,  in  their  early  shooting,  to  dis- 
place the  improper  and  ill-placed  growths,  and  retain  all  the  well 
placed  shoots,  both  for  an  additional  supply  of  branches  in  the  gene- 
ral formation  of  the  trees,  and  to  form  future  bearers  for  production 
of  fruit. 

Thinning'  of  Fruit. 

Apricot,  peach,  and  nectarine  trees,  in  favourable  seasons,  some- 
times  set  superabundant  crops  of  fruit,  often  in  thick  clusters,  and 


MAY.]  THE  FRUIT-GARDEN.  377 

in  greater  quantities,  than  they  can  supply  with  a  sufficiency  of  nour- 
ishment ;  and  which,  if  suffered  to  remain,  would  not  only  be  poor 
and  miserable,  but  would  so  exhaust  the  trees,  as  to  render  it  im- 
possible for  them,  to  produce  good  and  sufficient  shoots,  capable  of 
bearing  any  tolerable  quantity  of  fruit  the  ensuing  season,  or  per- 
haps ever  after. 

Therefore,  let  them  now  be  thinned,  leaving  only  a  good,  mode- 
rate, regular  crop,  on  each  tree,  and  the  sooner  it  is  done,  the  bet- 
ter, both  for  the  trees  and  remaining  fruit ;  always  leaving  the  best 
placed  and  most  promising. 

The  young  fruit  that  are  thinned  off,  are  excellent  for  tarts,  &c. 
particularly  the  apricots,  but  the  others  are  also  very  good  for  that 
purpose. 

Some  people  will  consider  this  a  very  disagreeable  task,  both  on 
account  of  casting  away  so  many  fruit,  which  they  might  think 
would  do  very  well,  and  also,  on  account  of  the  time  spent  in  per- 
forming the  work  ;  but  this  is  a  mistake,  as  the  loss  in  number, 
will  be  more  than  repaid  by  the  size,  flavour,  and  excellence  of  the 
remaining  fruit ;  and  besides,  the  trees  will  be  preserved  in  health 
and  vigour,  for  the  production  of  future  crops. 

This  thinning  should  not  be  confined  only,  to  wall  and  espalier 
trees,  but  ought  to  be  extended  generally,  and  for  the  same  reasons, 
to  all  your  standard  peach,  nectarine  and  apricots,  but  more  parti- 
cularly to  such  as  are  young. 

When  trees  are  suffered  to  bear  a  superabundant  crop,  the  extra- 
ordinary efforts  made  to  support  their  too  numerous  offspring,  of- 
ten so  exhaust  them,  as  to  bring  on  diseases,  of  which  several  do 
not  recover,  at  least  for  two  or  three  years. 

Protecting  Cherries  from  Birds. 

As  soon  as  your  cherries  begin  to  ripen,  hang  up  nets  before  the 
wall  trees,  and  cast  some  over  the  espaliers,  supporting  them  with 
sticks  or  branches  at  a  sufficient  distance  to  prevent  the  birds  from 
reaching  the  fruit.  Likewise,  the  casting  of  large  nets,  over  stand- 
ard cherry  trees,  will  prevent  the  depredations  of  birds. 

Cleaning  the  fruit-Tree  Borders. 

The  borders  where  wall  and  espalier-trees  grow,  should  be  kept 
remarkably  clear  from  weeds ;  for  these  not  only  appear  disagree- 
able and  exhaust  the  nourishment,  but  afford  harbour  for  snails, 
slugs,  and  other  crawling  insects,  to  the  detriment  of  the  fruit. 

Therefore,  when  weeds  appear  in  these  parts,  a»d  where  there  is 
room  to  admit  of  hoeing  between  any  crops  that  are  growing 
on  the  borders,  let  a  sharp  hoe  be  applied  to  them  in  a  dry  day,  by 
which  you  may  stop  their  progress ;  and  as  soon  as  hoed,  rake  off 
all  the  weeds  and  rubbish,  leaving  a  clean  smooth  surface. 


3  c 


573  THE  FRUIT-GARDEN.  [MAT, 


Insects. 

At  this  season,  insects  will  probably  appear  on  some  of  your 
fruit  trees  ;  when  that  is  the  case,  there  should  be  immediate  means 
used  for  their  destruction,  before  they  increase  and  become  nume- 
rous. See  page  325. 

Watering  with  common  water,  proves  very  beneficial  to  trees  in- 
fested with  insects;  especially,  if  thrown  against  them  with  some 
force,  by  means  of  a  small  water-engine.  This  will  not  only  dis- 
place caterpillars  and  many  other  insects,  but  greatly  refresh  the 
trees,  especially,  in  dry  weather  ;  and  if  often  repeated  where  in- 
sects appear,  it  will  considerably  diminish  their  number,  and  pre- 
vent their  spreading. 

The  most  eligible  engines,  are  such  as  have  the  pump  and  dis- 
charging pipe,  fixed  in  the  vessel  for  containing  the  water  ;  of  which, 
some  are  of  a  moderate  size  for  carrying  about  by  the  hand,  but 
larger  ones  are  fitted  upon  a  low,  light,  three  wheeled  carnage,  for 
the  more  convenient  removal  from  place  to  place. 

This  engine  may  be  conveniently  used,  for  watering  different 
parts  of  the  garden  in  dry  weather. 

Watering  new  Planted  Trees. 

The  new  planted  fruit-trees,  will  now  be  greatly  benefitted  by 
occasional  waterings,  which  should  always  be  given  in  the  morn- 
ing, and  frequently  over  the  branches,  as  well  as  about  the  roots ; 
this  will  be  of  great  service  in  washing  off  any  dust  and  filth  which 
their  leaves  may  have  contracted,  and  in  opening  their  pores  for  the 
reception  of  the  atmospheric  moisture. 

Strawberries. 

Watering,  at  this  season,  will  be  extremely  salutary  to  strawber- 
ries, by  causing  their  fruit  to  set  and  swell  freely ;  let  it  not  be  given 
over  the  plants,  but  between  them,  lest  it  should  wash  off  the  fecun- 
dating polen  from  the  flowers,  and  thereby  prevent  their  setting 
fruit. 

In  those  beds  where  the  plants  are  kept  apart  from  one  another, 
and  the  fruit  required  in  the  greatest  perfection,  the  young  advanc- 
ing runners  should  be  trimmed  off,  to  encourage  the  bloom  and  en- 
large the  fruit ;  but  when  a  supply  of  those  are  wanted  for  forming 
new  plantations,  a  sufficiency  must  be  left  for  that  purpose. 

The  edgings  of  strawberries,  round  beds  or  borders,  Sec.  should 
be  kept  within  due  bounds,  by  occasionally  cutting  away  their  ad- 
vancing runners. 

Newly '-grafted  and  Budded  Trees. 

For  the  treatment  of  such  trees  as  were  grafted  in  the  preceding 
months,  or  budded  last  summer  or  aulumn,  see  the  Nursery  for 
t.Yij  month. 


i.i  A  v.]  379 


THE  ORCHARD. 

YOU  should  now  pay  attention  to  the  due  formation  of  the 
heads  of  young,  or  new  planted  trees  ;  much  may  be  done  towards 
that,  by  the  timely  displacing  of  irregular  and  unnecessary  shoots, 
and  by  the  shortning  of  luxuriant  ones. 

The  new  planted  trees  will  require  to  be  frequently  watered, 
giving  it  occasionally  to  the  branches  as  well  as  the  roots,  and  al- 
ways about  the  hour  of  sun  setting,  or  a  short  time  before  or  after. 

Such  of  your  peaches,  nectarines  and  apricots,  but  more  especially 
the  young  trees,  as  are  over-burdened  with  fruit,  must  be  deprived 
of  any  superabundance,  by  a  judicious  thinning,  and  only  as  many 
left  on,  as  they  have  sufficient  strength  to  support,  without  injury 
to  themselves. 

Take  particular  care  to  destroy  caterpillars,  &c.  while  yet  in 
small  clusters,  before  they  overrun  the  trees  ;  and  -where  worms 
or  canker  appear  in  either  stems  or  branches,  let  such  parts  be 
treated  as  directed  in  page  1.34. 


THE  VINEYARD. 

THE  vines  will  now  begin  to  shoot  vigorously,  and  produce, 
besides  bearing  and  other  useful  shoots,  numbers  that  are  totally 
unnecessary,  which  ought  to  be  carefully  cleared  away  ;  for  if  left  on, 
they  would  rob  the  fruit,  and  also  croud  and  impoverish  those  shoots 
intended  for  next  year's  bearing.  But  in  doing  this,  you  must  be 
very  particular  not  to  break  off,  in  going  between  the  vines,  such 
fruiting  or  other  shoots  as  are  necessary,  for  at  this  time  they  are 
very  easily  injured  ;  nor  to  annoy  in  the  least  the  blossom  buds, 
•which  will,  early  in  the  month,  be  very  prominent.  Where  suckers 
from  the  roots,  or  shoots  from  the  under  parts  of  the  stems  appear, 
let  them  be  immediately  stripped  off.  The  principal  part  of  this 
•work,  if  attended  to  in  due  time,  may  be  done  with  the  finger  and 
thumb,  but  where  that  will  not  answer,  you  may  now  use  the  knife, 
with  great  safety ;  for  although  these  plants  bleed  copiously  in 
spring  when  destitute  of  leaves,  yet  afterwards  the  exhalation  by 
the  foliage  becomes  so  great,  that  the  absorbent  roots  do  not  sup- 
ply a  fluid  so  fast  as  it  could  be  expended  in  the  growth  of  the  plant 
or  dissipated  into  the  air  ;  hence  the  cause  of  the  drooping  of  va- 
rious kinds  of  plants  in  hot  weather. 

All  the  shoots  that  have  fruit  on,  and  others  that  are  strong,  well 
placed,  and  suitable  for  next  year's  bearing,  should,  when  grown  to 
a  sufficient  length,  be  carefully  and  neatly  tied  up  to  the  stakes,  pre- 
viously observing,  as  before  directed,  to  clear  away  all  unnecessary 
young  growths  arising  in  places  not  wanted,  and  to  leave  a  sufti* 


380  THE  NURSERY  [MAY. 

ciency  of  the  best,  for  a  proper  choice  in  the  general  winter  prun- 
ing. 

It  will  not  be  proper  at  this  time  to  cultivate  the  ground  between 
the  vines,  as  many  accidents  might  happen  thereby,  to  the  blossoms 
and  young  shoots  :  but  towards  the  end  of  the  month,  or  when  alt 
the  vines  have  had  their  first  tying  up,  (for  this  must  be  repeated  as 
they  advance  in  growth,)  you  should  give  the  ground  a  general 
cleaning,  either  by  hoe  or  plough,  Sec.  as  most  convenient. 


THE  NURSERY. 


Destroy   Weeds. 

THERE  is  nothing  more  important  at  this  season,  than  the 
destruction  of  weeds,  in  all  parts  of  the  nursery,  for  if  you  let  any 
of  them  perfect  seeds,  your  ground  will  be  thereby,  stocked  for 
years ;  therefore,  the  hoe  must  be  applied  wherever  you  can  use 
it,  and  always  be  careful  to  rake  and  carry  away  such  as  you  hoe 
or  pull  up,  for  if  left  lying  on  the  surface,  or  in  the  allies,  many  of 
them  would  there  ripen  seed,  which  would  afterwards  considerably 
encrease  your  labour.  Weeds  should  never  be  suffered  to  grow 
between  the  rows  of  trees,  &c.  for  those  rob  them  of  a  great  por- 
tion of  the  necessary  nourishment ;  nor  should  you,  for  the  same 
reason,  ever  plant  any  kitchen  vegetables  between  them,  as  is  prac- 
tised by  some  unskilful  and  covetous  persons. 

The  seed-beds  of  all  young  trees  and  shrubs,  should  now,  in  par- 
ticular, be  kept  remarkably  free  from  weeds,  and  this  must  always 
be  done,  by  a  very  careful  hand-weeding. 

Watering  the  Seed-beds. 

If  the  weather  should  now  prove  dry,  all  the  seed-beds,  but  parti- 
cularly the  evergreens,  such  as  pines  and  firs,  &c.  ought  to  be  fre- 
quently watered,  taking  care  not  lo  administer  it  too  hastily,  lest  it 
should  wash  the  earth  from  about  the  young  roots,  and  expose  them, 
too  much  to  the  sun,  which  would  greatly  retard  their  growth. 

Shading  and  Sifting  Earth  over  Seedlings. 

All  the  slow  growing  and  tender  seedlings,  especially  the  ever- 
greens, should,  after  having  newly  come  up,  be  occasionally  shaded, 
from  the  too  powerful  influence  of  the  mid-day  sun,  which  would 
destroy  a  great  number  of  them,  particularly,  while  their  small  stems 
are  in  a  tender  succulent  state. 

There  is  nothing  that  will  be  more  beneficial  to  the  young  seed- 
lings, at  this  period  of  their  growth,  than  to  sift  some  fine.,  light 


SIAY.]  THE  NURSERY.  581 

earth  over  them,  just  as  much,  and  no  more,  as  will  cover  their 
stems  up  to  the  seed  leaves ;  this  will  keep  their  roots  cool  and 
moist,  and  protect  their  stems  from  the  power  of  the  sun.  The 
pines  .and  firs,  in  particular,  are  very  subject  to  be  cut  off  when 
young,  at  the  very  surface  of  the  ground,  by  the  burning  heat 
thereof,  melting  away  the  yet  soft  and  tender  stems,  while  the 
leaves  do  not  appear  in  the  least  injured. 

Watering  new  Plantationn. 

Watering  will  be  extremely  necessary,  for  all  the  new  planta- 
tions of  the  more  curious  and  valuable  sorts  of  evergreens  and  flow- 
ering shrubs,  and  indeed,  for  as  much  of  the  general  young  planta- 
tions, as  it  can  be  extended  to  with  any  tolerable  degree  of  conve- 
nience. It  should  be  occasionally  given  to  the  leaves  and  branches, 
as  well  as  to  the  roots,  for  it  will  not  only  wash  off  any  dirt  or  filth 
which  they  may  have  contracted,  but  open  the  pores  of  the  plants, 
which  in  dry  weather  are  many  times  almost  closed,  whereby  the 
trees  suffer  greatly  ;  nor  is  the  water  poured  about  the  roots  only, 
capable  of  relieving  them  when  in  that  condition  ;  this  is  one  rea- 
son why  rain  is  much  more  effectual,  than  artificial  watering  : 
these  waterings  should  always  be  given  in  an  evening  after  the  heat 
of  the  clay  is  over,  that  the  water  may  have  time  to  soak  down  to 
the  roots,  and  the  moisture  be  dried  from  the  leaves  by  the  morn- 
ing sun  ;  for  if  watered  in  the  forenoon,  and  that  there  should  be 
a  powerful  sun  soon  after,  the  leaves  are  frequently  scalded  thereby, 
the  spherical  drops  of  water  which  remain  on  their  surface,  causing 
the  rays  to  converge  to  a  focus,  and  act  upon  them  as  a  lens,  or 
burning-glass. 

But  in  watering,  let  it  be  observed  not  to  give  too  much,  as  that, 
in  some  case,  would  be  injurious  ;  a  little,  and  often,  ought  to  be  the 
rule. 

Such  plants  as  you  have  in  pots,  should  be  treated  as  directed, 
hereafter,  for  those  of  the  Green-house  department. 

Profutgating  Evergreens,  &c.  by  Layers, 

About  the  latter  end  of  this  month,  begin  to  propagate  such  ever- 
greens and  other  shrubs,  by  layers  of  the  young  shoots  of  the  pre- 
sent year,  as  do  not  succeed  well  by  layers  of  the  old  wood. 

When  the  young  shoots  are  from  eight,  to  ten  or  twelve  inches 
long,  bring  them  down  to  the  earth,  and  if  strong,  you  may  slit  them 
as  directed  in  page  281,  or  if  weak,  give  them  a  gentle  twist  and 
lay  them  into  the  earth,  from  two  to  six  inches  deep,  according  to 
their  size,  leaving  about  two  or  three  inches  of  the  tops  out  of 
ground :  fasten  them  securely  with  hooked  pegs  and  draw  the  earth 
over  the  parts  laid.  When  done,  give  them  a  moderate  watering, 
and  repeat  it  occasionally,  so  as  to  keep  the  earth  in  a  moist  state, 
to  encourage  their  rooting. 

Trees  and  shrubs  in  general,  root  very  freely  by  this  method, 
which  may  "be  practised  on  the  various  kinds  as  they  advance  in 


382  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [MAY. 

growth,  both  evergreen  and  deciduous,  from  the  middle  of  this 
month,  to  the  end  of  July.  Many  kinds  will  be  well  rooted  by  Oc- 
tober, and  may  then  be  taken  oft'  and  removed.  Such  as  are  not 
rooted  by  that  time,  must  be  suffered  to  remain  another  year. 

JVeivly    Graf  fed  and  budded  Trees, 

Examine  all  kinds  of  trees  and  shrubs,  which  were  grafted  in  the 
preceding  months,  and  such  as  are  well  united,  manifested  by  the 
free  shooting  of  the  grafts,  the  clay  and  bandages  may  be  taken  oft', 
not  however,  in  most  kinds,  until  the  cions  have  grown  five  or  six 
inches  long  ;  the  latter  part  of  the  month  will,  generally,  be  the 
proper  time  for  this  examination. 

Those  that  are  not  as  well  united  as  might  be  wished,  should 
have  the  bandage  slackened  and  fresh  clay  applied  to  them  as  in 
the  first  instance ;  or  the  clay  may  be  applied  without  the  bandage, 
which  will  preserve  the  wounds  from  the  weather,  and  greatly  pro- 
mote the  growth  of  the  bark  over  the  headed  parts  of  the  stocks  : 
this  may  be  left  on  till  it  falls  off. 

Suffer  no  shoots  to  remain,  that  arise  from  the  stocks  below  the 
grafts  ;  all  should  be  looked  over  once  a  week,  and  when  such  ap- 
pear, let  them  be  immediately  rubbed  off,  that  the  whole  nourish- 
ment may  go  to  support  of  the  cions. 

The  trees  which  were  budded  last  summer,  must  also,  be  care- 
fully and  frequently  looked  over,  and  all  improper  shoots  rubbed 
off. 

As  the  shoots  from  the  innoculations  advance  in  growth,  they 
should  be  tied  gently  to  the  spurs  left  for  that  purpose,  at  the  time 
of  heading  the  stocks,  that  they  may  not  be  broke  off  by  winds  or 
other  accidents. 

Seedlings  in  Pots  or  Tubs. 

The  pots  and  tubs  of  the  more  rare  and  delicate  seedling  plants, 
should  now  be  kept  constantly  in  the  shade,  where  they  may  have 
only  the  morning  sun  till  nine  or  ten  o'clock,  and  that  of  the  after- 
noon, after  four ;  they  must  be  frequently  watered  and  kept  free 
from  weeds.  A  little  earth  sifted  over  them  as  directed  for  other 
seedlings,  will  be  of  great  service. 


THE  PLEASURE,  OR  FLOWER-GARDEN. 


Hyacinths, 

CONTIINUE  to  defend  the  beds  of  the  more  curious  hya- 
cinths, yet  in  full  blow,  as  directed  last  month  ;  or,  they  may  be 
defended  either  by  boards,  or  by  mats  had  occasionally  on  hoops 


MAY.]  FLOWER-GARDEN.  383 

placed  archwise  over  the  beds  for  their  support.  These  should  be 
laid  on  every  day,  \vhen  the  sun  shines  powerfully,  about  nine  or 
tea  o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  taken  off  at  four  or  five  in  the  af- 
ternoon. 

When  hyacinths  are  past  flower,  let  them  always  be  fully  exposed 
to  the  weather,  except  in  very  heavy  torrents  of  rain,  from  which 
they  should  be  carefully  protected. 

It  is  the  practice  in  Holland  to  take  up  the  bulbs,  about  a  month 
after  the  bloom  is  completely  over,  in  the  following  manner :  as 
soon  as  the  plants  begin  to  put  on  a  yellowish  decayed  appearance, 
they  take  up  the  roots  and  cut  off  the  stem  and  foliage,  within  an 
inch,  or  half  an  inch  of  the  bulb,  but  leave  the  fibres,  &c.  attached 
to  it ;  they  then  place  the  bulbs  again  on  the  same  bed,  with  their 
points  towards  the  north,  and  cover  them  about  an  inch  deep,  with 
dry  earth  or  sand  in  form  of  a  ridge,  or  in  little  cones  over  each 
bulb :  in  this  state  they  remain  about  three  weeks  longer,  and  dry 
or  ripen  gradually  ;  during  which  period  the  bed  is  preserved  from 
heavy  rains  or  too  much  sun,  but  at  all  other  times  exposed  to  the 
full  air ;  at  the  expiration  of  this  period,  the  bulbs  are  taken  up,  and 
their  fibres,  which  are  become  dry  and  withered,  cut  or  gently 
rubbed  off ;  they  are  then  placed  in  a  dry  room  for  two  or  three 
weeks,  and  are  afterwards  cleaned  from  any  soil  that  adheres  to 
them,  their  loose  skins  taken  off,  with  such  offsets  as  may  be  easily 
separated. 

When  this  dressing  is  finished,  the  bulbs  are  wrapped  up  in  se- 
parate pieces  of  paper,  or  buried  in  sand,  made  effectually  dry  for 
that  purpose,  where  they  remain  till  the  return  of  the  season  for 
planting. 

Another,  and  less  troublesome,  mode  of  treatment  after  bloom, 
though  perhaps  more  hazardous,  is  to  suffer  the  roots  to  remain  in 
the  bed,  till  the  stems  and  foliage  appear  nearly,,dried  up  and  con- 
sumed ;  this  will  seldom  happen  to  be  the  case,  in  less  than  two 
months  after  bloom  ;  the  bulbs  are  then  to  be  taken  up,  cleaned 
from  the  fibres,  soil,  &c.  and  spread  to  dry  and  harden  on  the  floor 
of  an  airy  room,  for  about  three  weeks,  then  to  be  preserved  in  sand 
or  paper  as  before  directed.  Or  they  may  be  deposited  in  dry  bar- 
ley chaff,  saw-dust,  or  kept  on  open  shelves  out  of  the  sun  and  wet ; 
but  too  much  exposure  to  the  air,  often  destroys  many  roots,  and 
materially  injures  the  whole. 

Others  again,  take  up  the  roots  at  the  first  mentioned  period, 
cutting  off  the  flower  stems  but  not  the  foliage,  and  prepare  a  bed 
of  light  earth,  either  where  the  hyacinths  had  grown,  or  in  any 
other  convenient  place ;  forming  it  into  a  high  sloping  ridge,  east 
and  west ;  on  the  north  side  of  which,  they  place  the  roots  in  rows, 
so  as  that  the  bulbs  do  not  touch,  and  in  a  horizontal  manner,  co- 
vering the  roots  and  fibres  with  the  earth,  and  suffering  the  leaves 
to  hang  down  the  ridges  ;  here  they  remain  till  the  bulbs  are  suffi- 
ciently ripened,  and  then  are  taken  up  and  treated  as  before. 


384        •  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [MAY, 


Tulips. 

Continue  to  protect  the  fine  late  tulips,  yet  in  flowers,  as  directed 
last  month  in  page  334,  and  treat  them  in  every  respect  as  there 
advised. 

As  soon  as  the  petals  or  flowers  fall,  the* seed- vessel  of  each 
should  be  immediately  broken  off,  for  if  suffered  to  remain  and  ri- 
pen seed,  it  would  procrastinate  the  maturity  of  the  roots,  and  con- 
siderably weaken  them. 

Towards  the  end  of  the  month,  or  rather  when  the  grass,  or  fo- 
liage, becomes  of  a  yellowish  brown,  not  before,  which  will  happen 
sooner  or  later  according  to  season,  climate,  soil  and  situation,  and 
that  a  few  inches  of  the  top  or  stem  appears  dry,  purplish,  and 
withered,  you  are  to  take  up  the  roots  of  such  as  you  particularly 
esteem  ;  for  this  is  the  critical  period  for  that  work,  because  if 
done  earlier,  they  would  be  weak  and  spungy,  and  deferred  later, 
their  juices  would  become  gross  ;  which  would  appear  manifest  at 
the  succeeding  bloom,  by  too  great  a  redundance  of  colorific  matter 
in  the  petals,  and  the  flowers  would  be  what  is  generally  termed 
foul. 

When  the  roots  are  taken  up,  they  are  to  be  laid  in  a  dry  shady 
place  and  gradually  dried  ;  observing  to  keep  each  variety  of  the 
superb  kinds  separate,  that  in  planting,  you  may  know  how  to  di- 
versify the  bed,  according  to  fancy,  either  as  to  intermixture  of  co- 
lours, or  the  usual  height  and  growth  of  the  plants.  About  five  or 
six  weeks  after  the  bulbs  are  taken  up  and  properly  dried,  it  is  pro- 
per to  take  off  their  loose  skins,  fibres,  and  offsets  ;  the  last  brown 
"skin  which  is  so  intimately  connected  with  the  root,  ought  to  be 
left  on  ;  after  which  they  should  be  preserved,  in  dry  sand,  barley 
chaff,  saw  dust,  or  rolled  up  in  separate  papers,  till  the  time  of 
planting,  for  the  action  of  the  air  during  our  warm  summers  and 
autumns,  would  greatly  weaken  and  injure  them,  by  drying  up  part 
of  their  juices. 

The  smallest  and  weakest  offsets,  particularly  such  as  are  not 
provided  with  a  brown  skin,  ought  to  be  replanted  as  soon  as  they 
are  taken  up,  about  an  inch  and  a  half  deep,  in  a  fresh  sandy  loam, 
and  in  a  dry  situation  ;  or  instead  of  replanting  these  offsets  so  early, 
they  may  be  preserved  from  the  drying  influence  of  the  air,  by 
burying  them  in  dry  sand  till  October,  when  they  are  to  be  planted 
as  already  mentioned. 

Common  tulips,  planted  in  the  borders  of  the  pleasure  ground,  &c. 
need  not  be  taken  up  oftener,  than  once  in  two  or  three  years,  to 
separate  the  offsets,  and  replant  the  bulbs  in  fresh  earth. 

Ranunculuses. 

The  weather  in  this  month  is  generally  very  clear  and  hot ;  the 
ranunculuses  ought  to  be  shaded  at  such  times,  from  the  mid-day 
isun,  by  means  of  lofty  hoops  and  mats,  or  by  some  better  contri- 
vance, that  will  admit  li^ht  and  air  freely  ;  a  frame  and  cover,  simi- 


MAY.]  FLOWER-GARDEN.  585 

lar  to  that  directed  for  hyacinths  in  page  332,  would  answer  best,  if 
expense  and  trouble  were  not  to  be  considered  :  it  will,  however, 
be  absolutely  necessary  to  shade  them,  in  some  manner,  during 
the  period  of  bloom,  otherwise,  they  will  continue  but  a  short  time, 
especially  the  dark  rich  coloured  sorts  ;  for,  in  proportion  as  their 
colours  approach  to  black,  is  the  injury  they  will  receive  from  the 
rays  of  the  sun,  if  it  is  permitted  to  shine  upon  them  in  full  force ; 
some  of  the  very  darkest  cannot  stand  it  a  day  without  being  en- 
tirely deprived  of  their  beauty.  The  light  coloured  sorts  will  bear 
the  sun's  rays  much  better,  reflecting  them  in  proportion  as  they 
approach  to  white ;  green  is  the  only  colour  that  reflects  and  ab- 
sorbs the  rays  of  light  in  equal  proportion,  and  consequently,  is 
more  predominant  in  the  vegetable  kingdom  than  any  other. 

During  the  continuance  of  the  bloom,  the  earth  round  the  roots, 
must  be  occasionally  watered  as  directed  in  page  3  36,  but  when  that  is 
over,  they  will  require  it  but  seldom,  and  not  at  all,  should  gentle 
showers  of  rain  occur  now  and  then,  but  shading  in  the  middle  of 
hot  days,  will  be  very  beneficial  to  the  plants ;  it  tends  to  prolong 
their  vegetation,  and  the  size  and  substance  of  the  roots  are  thereby 
increased.  For  their  further  treatment,  see  the  Flower -Gar  den,  in 
June. 

A  Description  of  the  Properties  of  a  fine  DOUBLE  RANUNCULUS. 

The  stem  should  be  strong,  straight,  and  from  eight  to  twelve 
inches  high,  supporting  a  large  well-formed  flower,  at  least  two 
inches  in  diameter,  consisting  of  numerous  petals,  the  largest  at  the 
outside,  and  gradually  diminishing  in  size  as  they  approach  the 
centre,  which  should  be  well  filled  up. 

The  blossom  should  be  of  a  hemispherical  form  ;  and  its  compo- 
nent petals  imbricated  in  such  a  manner,  as  neither  to  be  too  close 
and  compact  nor  too  widely  separated ;  but  have  rather  more  of  a 
perpendicular  than  of  a  horizontal  direction,  to  display  its  colours 
with  better  effect. 

The  petals  should  be  broad,  and  have  perfectly  entire  well  round- 
ed edges  ;  their  colours  should  be  dark,  clear,  rich,  or  brilliant,  ei- 
ther consisting  of  one  colour  throughout,  or  be  otherwise  variously 
diversified,  on  an  ash,  white,  sulphur,  or  fire  colour  ground,  or  re- 
gularly striped,  spotted,  or  mottled,  in  an  elegant  manner. 

There  are  more  numerous  varieties  of  beautiful  Double  Ranun- 
culuses, than  of  any  other  flower. 

Anemones. 

Gentle  and  moderate  waterings,  will  be  necessary  for  anemones, 
during  their  period  of  flowering,  as  well  as  for  ranunculuses  ;  the 
blossoms  and  petals  of  the  former,  are  of  a  more  soft  and  flexible 
texture  than  those  of  the  latter,  and  are  consequently,  more  liable 
to  receive  injury,  from  high  winds  and  heavy  rains  ;  their  colours 
soon  fade  when  exposed  to  a  strong  sun ;  it  is  therefore,  equally 

SD 


386  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [MAT. 

necessary  to  shade  and  shelter  them  whilst  in  bloom,  in  order  to 
prolong  the  extreme  beauty  of  their  flowers. 

Anemones  continue  longer  after  bloom  in  a  state  of  vegetation, 
than  ranunculuses,  probably,  because  of  their  greater  degree  of  sue - 
culency  ;  and  even  at  the  proper  time  to  take  them  up,  it  will  some- 
times happen,  that  part  of  their  foliage  will  not  be  entirely  divested 
of  greenness  and  moisture ;  when  it  thus  happens,  which  it  does 
more  frequently  in  rainy  or  wet  seasons,  much  skill  is  necessary  to 
ascertain  the  critical  period  to  take  up  the  roots  ;  for  if  they  are 
suffered  to  remain  too  long,  especially  if  the  season  be  moist,  they 
will  shoot  afresh,  and  be  thereby  materially  weakened  and  injured  ; 
it  is  indeed  better  to  take  them  up  too  early,  than  suffer  them  to 
vegetate  in  this  manner,  but  the  roots  will  not  be  so  firm  and  solid 
as  if  done  at  the  exact  time.  The  safest  and  most  effectual  me- 
thod to  preserve  them  from  these  disagreeable  consequences,  is  to 
keep  off  all  heavy  rains,  after  the  bloom  is  quite  over,  by  means  of 
mats  and  hoops,  but  on  no  account  suffer  the  ground  to  become  too 
dry  ;  the  roots  will  then  regularly  and  gradually  mature,  and  the 
foliage  in  due  time  will  become  brown  and  dry,  which  will  point 
out  the  true  time  to  take  up  the  roots,  and  this  will  usually  happen  to 
be  about  a  month  after  bloom. 

For  their  subsequent  treatment,  see  the  Slower-Garden  for  next 
month. 

A  Description  of  the  Properties  of  a  Jine  DOUBLE  ANEMONE. 

The  stem  should  be  strong,  elastic,  and  erect,  not  less  than  nine 
or  ten  inches  high. 

The  blossom,  or  corolla,  should  be  at  least  two  inches  and  a  half 
in  diameter,  consisting  of  an  exterior  row  of  large  substantial  well 
rounded  petals  or  guard  leaves,  at  first  horizontally  extended,  and 
then  turning  a  little  upwards,  so  as  to  form  a  broad  shallow  cup,  the 
interior  part  of  which,  should  contain  a  great  number  of  long  nar- 
row petals,  imbricating  each  other,  and  rather  reverting  from  the 
centre  of  the  blossom  ;  there  are  a  great  number  of  small  slender 
stamens,  intermixed  with  these  petals,  but  they  are  short,  and  not 
easily  discernable. 

The  colour  should  be  clear  and  distinct,  when  diversified  in  the 
same  flower,  or  brilliant  and  striking  if  it  consists  only  of  one  co- 
lour, as  blue,  crimson,  or  scarlet,  8cc.  in  which  case,  the  bottoms  of 
the  broad  exterior  petals  are  generally  white  ;  but  the  beauty  and 
contrast  is  considerably  increased,  when  both  the  exterior  and  inte- 
rior petals  are  regularly  marked  with  alternate  blue  and  white, 
or  pink  and  white  stripes,  Sec.  which  in  the  broad  petals  should  not 
extend  quite  to  the  margin. 

Early  Flowering  Bulbs* 

Any  curious  bulbs  that  are  now  in  flower,  maybe  much  prolonged 
in  bloom  and  beauty,  by  occasional  shade  from  the  sun. 

Spring  crocuses,  snow-drops,  fritillaries,  crown-imperials,  dens 
canises,  and  all  other  earjy  flowering  bulbs  that  have  done  flower- 


MAT.]  FLOWER-GARDEN.  337 

ing,  should,  where  intended,  be  taken  up,  as  soon  as  their  leaves 
decay. 

This  ought  to  be  constantly  practised,  with  such  as  have  stood  un- 
re moved  two  or  three  years  ;  in  order  to  separate  the  offsets,  and 
to  select  the  best  roots  for  new  planting;  for  without  this  c?re  the 
bulbs  would  become  numerous,  and  so  small  as  to  render  the  flow- 
ers very  insignificant.  The  offsets  when  separated,  may  be  imme- 
diately planted  in  beds  or  prepared  borders,  to  encrease  the  stock 
and  enlarge  their  size  ;  or  they  may  be  kept  up,  as  well  as  the  largest 
of  the  roots,  till  found  convenient  to  plant  them. 

All  these  kinds  when  taken  up,  should  be  placed  in  the  shade  to 
dry,  and  when  sufficiently  so,  preserved  in  dry  sand  or  saw  dust, 
Sec.  till  the  time  of  planting  ;  which,  for  these,  should  not  be  delayed 
later  than  October,  nor  even  till  then  if  not  taken  good  care  of,  as 
they  do  not  keep  well  out  of  ground,  especially  if  exposed  long  to 
the  air. 

Autumn  flowering  Bulbs. 

The  autumnal  Crocuses,  Amaryllises,  and  Colchicums,  should 
be  taken  up  as  soon  as  their  leaves  decay,  the  offsets  separated  and 
aJl  replanted  again  before  the  end  of  July  :  they  are  by  no  means  to 
be  kept  longer  out  of  the  ground,  as  that  would  prevent  their  flqw- 
ering  in  due  perfection  in  autumn,  which  is  their  proper  season. 

Care  of  Seedling  Bulbs, 

The  boxes  of  seedling  tulips,  hyacinths,  narcissuses,  and  other 
bulbous  kinds,  arising  from  the  seeds  sown  last  autumn,  should  be 
now  placed  in  the  shade,  carefully  preserved  from  the  mid-day  sun, 
and  the  plants  refreshed  now  and  then  with  a  little  water :  a  small 
portion  of  loose  earth  sifted  over  them,  would  be  of  great  benefit. 

Auriculas  and  Polyanthuses. 

The  first  week  of  this  month,  or  immediately  after  your  fine  auri- 
riculas  and  polyanthuses  have  done  flowering,  is  a  very  proper  time 
to  re-pot  and  slip  them,  as  directed  in  the  Flower-Garden  for  last 
month  ;  after  which,  they  must  be  treated  during  the  summer  and 
autumn,  as  there  advised.  See  pages  339  and  341, 

Carnations. 

The  fine  carnations  in  pots,  should  now  have  due  care  and  good 
attendance,  they  should  be  watered  according  to  their  necessities, 
and  as  their  flower  stems  advance,  small  neat  sticks,  for  their  sup- 
port, should  be  placed  one  in  each  pot,  to  which  they  are  to  be  tied ; 
these  ought  to  be  at  least  three  feet  long,  tapering  a  little  from  the 
bottom  to  top  and  painted  green  ;  they  should  be  substantial  and 
straight,  and  their  lower  ends  are  to  be' forced  into  the  earth  in  the 
centre  of  each  pot,  sufficiently  deep  and  firm,  not  to  be  shaken  looss 


388  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [MAY. 

by  the  wind.  As  the  stems  continue  advancing  in  height,  the  tying 
is  to  be  repeated  at  about  every  five  or  six  inches. 

The  pots  may  now  be  removed  to  the  stage,  and  remain  there  till 
the  time  of  bloom. 

If  any  small,  green,  winged  insects,  appear  on  the  stems  or  fo- 
liage of  the  plants,  they  must  be  effectually  extirpated,  either  by 
washing  the  infested  parts,  with  a  strong  infusion  of  tobacco-water, 
or  dusting  some  Scotch  or  fine  snuff  over  them  early  in  the  morn- 
ing, whilst  yet  wet  with  the  dew  of  the  night. 

The  common  carnations  in  the  borders,  will  require  to  be  kept 
free  from  weeds,  and  us  their  stems  advance,  they  should  be  tied  up 
neatly,  to  sticks  placed  for  that  purpose.  For  the  further  treatment 
of  carnations,  see  the  Flower-Garden  next  month. 

Pinks. 


Your  choice  pinks  in  pots,  will  require  due  attention  at  this  time, 
they  must  be  kept  free  from  weeds,.... frequently  watered,  and  not 
too  much  exposed  to  the  mid-day  sun  in  hot  weather.  For  further 
particulars  see  next  month. 

Tuberose  and  Scarlet  Amaryllis. 

The  first  week  of  this  month  is,  in  the  middle  states,  the  best  pe- 
riod for  planting  the  roots  of  the  tuberose,  and  scarlet  amaryllis  j 
for  the  method,  see  pages  349  and  350. 

Sowing  Annual  Flower  Seeds. 

Most  kinds  of  annual  flower  seeds,  may  yet  be  sown,  if  done  in 
the  early  part  of  this  month  ;  but  the  first  week  thereof,  will  be  a 
very  proper  time  to  sow  the  seeds  of  the  most  tender  kinds,  such 
as  the  various  sorts  of  flowering  Dolichos,  tricolours,  mcsembry- 
anthemums,  Ipomcea  Quamoclit^  Browallia,  sensitive  plant,  and  Vi- 
nca  rosea,  8cc.  the  two  last,  however,  though  often  considered  as  an- 
nuals, from  their  flowering  the  same  season  in  which  they  were 
sown,  are  not  truly  so,  as  they  will  continue  for  several  years,  if 
preserved  in  a  hot-house  ;  to  do  them  justice,  they  should  be  sown 
in  pots  and  forwarded  under  frames  and  glasses,  or  else,  the  sensi- 
tive plant  will  not  display  its  sensibility  so  well,  nor  will  the  Vinca 
rosea  flower  in  due  time :  the  dolichoses  should  be  sown  to  cover 
arbors,  &c.  as  may  also  ihe  Ipomcea  Quamoclit,  convolvulus  pur- 
pureus,  scarlet  kidney-beans,  &c.  or  they  may  be  sowed  in  small 
patches,  and  neat  poles  placed  to  them  to  climb  on. 

For  the  various  kinds,  Sec.  see  page  343,  and  also  the  catalogue 
of  annuals. 

Transplanting  Annuals. 

You  may  now  transplant  various  kinds  of  annuals  from  the  early 
sowings,  into  beds,  borders,  or  pots,  as  you  think  proper,  observing 
to  give  them  shade  and  water,  till  well  rooted,  or  to  transplant  them 
in  moist  or  cloudy  weather. 


MAY.]  FLOWER-GARDEN.  389 


Solving  Perennial  Flower-Seeds,  csV. 

The  seeds  of  most  kinds  of  perennial  and  biennial  flower-seeds, 
may  yet  be  sown,  as  directed  in  page  345  ;  but  they  will  require 
occasional  watering,  till  up  and  well  established  in  the  earth. 

Propagating  Double  Scarlet  Lychnis. 

This  beautiful  flowering-plant  may  now  be  propagated,by  cuttings 
of  the  stalks,  as  well  as  at  an  earlier  period,  by  slips  from  the  root. 
Towards  the  latter  end  of  the  month,  let  some  of  the  young  flow- 
er-stalks be  cut  into  lengths  of  six  or  seven  inches,  and  planted  in 
a  shady  border  of  rich  light  earth,  leaving  one  or  two  joints  of  each 
cutting  above  ground  ;  close  the  earth  well  about  them,  water  them 
gently,  and  if  bell  or  hand-glasses  are  placed  over  them,  their  root- 
ing will  be  greatly  facilitated  thereby. 

The  Hesperis  matronalis,  or  Garden-Rocket. 

The  double  white,  and  double  purple  varieties,  of  the  garden 
rocket,  are  extremely  beautiful  and  fragrant ;  I  have  not  yet  had 
the  pleasure  of  seeing  one  of  them  in  this  country,  nor  have  I  been 
able  to  learn  that  such  is  to  be  found  on  this  side  the  Atlantic  ; 
however,  it  is  to  be  hoped,  we  shall  soon  obtain  that  charming, 
showey,  and  delightful  flower.  It  is  perfectly  hardy  and  may  be 
cultivated  at  this  season,  as  above  directed,  for  the  double  scarlet 
lychnis,  or  by  slips  or  offsets  from  the  root,  taken  off  and  planted, 
either  in  spring  or  autumn  ;  it  does  not  prosper  well,  except  when 
annually  slipped  or  propagated  by  offsets ;  for  the  old  roots  are 
very  subject  to  decay,  especially  the  double  varieties ;  the  single 
sorts  are  much  more  permanent  and  easy  of  culture.  The  ladies 
of  Europe  are  extremely  fond  of  it,  whence  it  obtained  the  name  of 
Dame's-Violet,  or  Queen's  Gilliflower. 

Double  Wall-flow ers  and  Stookgillyjloivers. 

The  fine  double  wall-flowers,  and  double  stockgilly-flowers,  may 
now  be  propagated  by  young  slips  of  the  present  year :  chuse  those 
of  short  and  robust  growths,  from  four  to  five,  or  six  inches  long, 
and  let  them  be  carefully  slipped,  or  cut  with  a  knife  from  the  mo- 
ther plants.  Take  the  lower  leaves  off,  so  that  there  may  be  two, 
three,  or  four  inches  of  a  clean  stem  to  each,  and  plant  them  in  a 
shady  border  or  in  pots,  inserting  them  into  the  earth  up  to  their 
leaves  ;  then  give  some  water,  and  be  particular  to  shade  them 
from  the  mid-day  sun,  till  they  have  taken  root.  Water  them  oc- 
casionally during  summer,  and  in  September,  such  as  are  planted 
in  borders,  may  be  taken  up  with  balls  of  earth  and  potted,  in  order 
to  be  placed  in  frames,  Sec.  for  protection  from  the  winter  frosts. 

The  double  varieties  are  accidentally  produced  from  seed,  and  it 
is  very  rare  to  meet  with  such,  among-  seedling  plants  of  the  wall- 


390  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [MAY. 

flower,  perhaps  not  one  out  of  five  hundred  would  prove  double, 
but  the  gilliflowers  produce  numbers  of  double  flowers  from  seed, 
especially  ifit  is  saved  from  semi-double  varieties  :  the  full  double, 
never  producing  any.  The '  beginning  of  this  month  is  a  very 
proper  time,  to  sow  the  seed  of  either  of  these,  or  of  their  varieties. 

Guernsey  Lily. 

The  Amaryllis  sarniensis,  or  Guernsey  Lily.  The  leaves  of  this 
most  beautiful  flower  will,  generally,  be  decayed  towards  the  end 
of  this  month,  when  the  roots  may  be  taken  up,  and  the  offsets  se- 
parated ;  they  may  be  replanted  in  pots  immediately,  or  if  dried 
first  in  the  shade,  be  preserved  in  dry  sand,  See.  and  planted  any 
time  before  the  end  of  July,  but  are  not  to  be  kept  up  longer,  as 
they  flower  in  September  or  October.  When  the  winter  frost 
approaches,  the  pots  are  to  be  removed  into  a  garden-frame,  where 
they  may  have  occasional  protection  during  the  winter  months,  or 
they  may  be  placed  in  the  front  windows  of  the  Green-house. 
Their  roots  do  not  increase  numerously,  when  removed  oftener 
than  every  third  year,  and  in  the  summer  months,  they  ought  to  be 
kept  in  the  shade,  and  gently  watered  now  and  then  ;  but  as  their 
roots  are  in  a  dormant  state  during  that  time,  too  much  water 
would  totally  destroy  them. 

Transplanting  Perennial  and  Biennial  Seedlings. 

Many  of  the  early  sown  perennial,  and  biennial  flower  plants, 
will  in  the  course  of  this  month  be  fit  to  transplant  into  nursery 
beds ;  where  they  should  be  set  at  the  distance  of  six  inches  from 
one  another,  there  to  remain  to  get  strength  till  September  or  Oc- 
tober, when  they  should  be  removed  with  balls  of  earth  and  finally 
planted  where  intended  to  flower. 

Supporting  Flv&er -Plant*. 

Sticks  must  now  be  placed  to  such  flowering-plants  as  want  sup- 
port ;  in  doing  this,  have  regard  to  the  natural  size  and  height  of 
each  kind,  and  let  the  sticks  be  in  proportion ;  fix  them  down  firm 
on  that  side,  in  which  they  can  be  least  seen  ;  for  although  the  in- 
tent is,  to  keep  the  plants  upright  and  of  neat  appearance,  yet  the 
means  should  be  concealed  as  much  as  possible,  and  similar  care 
ought  also,  to  be  observed,  in  tying  up  the  plants. 

Likewise,  climbing  and  trailing  plants,  of  every  kind,  should 
have  timely  support  of  sticks  or  stakes,  proportioned  to  their  re- 
spective growths,  and  their  stems  or  shoots  conducted  thereto  in  a 
proper  manner. 

Weeds. 

More  than  ordinary  care  should  now  be  taken,  to  keep  all  your 
beds  and  borders,  free  from  weeds,  but  more  especially  those,  in 
which  small  seedlings  are  growing. 


MAYJ  THE  GREEN-HOUSE.  391 

Grass  and  Gravel  Walks. 

The  grass-walks  and  lawns,  should  now  be  duly  mowed  and  roll- 
ed ;  otherwise,  the  grass  will  soon  grow  rank  and  unsightly ;  and 
where  plantain  or  any  other  kind  of  weeds,  are  mixed  therewith, 
they  ought  to  be  picked  or  grubbed  out,  or  else,  many  of  their 
seeds  will  ripen,  and  thereby  increase  their  species,  which  will  over- 
power the  grass  and  render  the  verdure  less  agreeable. 

The  gravel  walks  should  also  be  kept  in  complete  order,  pre- 
serving them  always  free  from  weeds,  and  having  them  occasion- 
ally swept  to  clear  away  all  loose  litter ;  and  likewise  well  rolled, 
generally  once  a  week,  but  particularly  after  heavy  showers  of  rain, 
which  will  consolidate  them,  and  render  the  surface  smooth  and 


even. 


THE  GREEN-HOUSE. 


Air  and  Water. 

DURING  the  first  ten  days  of  this  month,  and,  in  the  middle 
states,  the  last  week  of  April,  the  doors  and  windows  ought  to  be 
kept  open,  night  and  day,  in  order  to  harden  and  prepare  the  plants 
for  a  removal  into  the  open  air ;  an  extraordinary  change  of  wea- 
ther, however,  may  sometimes  render  it  prudent  to  close  them  at 
night,  but  that  should  not  be  done  at  this  season,  except  in  cases  of 
necessity. 

Water  must  now  be  given  to  every  plant,  according  to  its  natura 
and  in  proportion  to  its  necessity,  as  observed  last  month ;  the 
oranges,  lemons,  myrtles,  and  other  woody  kinds,  will  require  it 
frequently  ;  it  is  impossible  to  say  how  often,  the  state  of  the  earth 
in  which  they  grow,  will  readily  denote  that,  it  should  always  be 
kept  moist  but  not  wet.  The  succulent  tribe  must  yet  get  it  but 
sparingly. 

Shifting. 

Such  plants  as  were  not  removed  into  larger  pots  or  tubs,  in  the 
preceding  months,  and  that  still  require  it,  may  now  be  shifted  as 
directed  in  page  353  ;  but  this  must  be  done  in  the  first  week  of 
the  month,  keeping  them  afterwards  in  the  shade,  till  they  begin  to 
grow  freely. 

Loosen  the  earth  in  the  top  of  the  pots  and  tubs,  and  refresh  with 
new  compost,  such  as  had  been  neglected  in  April. 


392  THE  GREEN-HOUSE.  [MAT, 

Pruning  and  Heading. 

You  may  still  prune,  trim,  and  head,  such  of  your  plants  as  are 
in  need  of  that  treatment ;  but  let  it  be  done  early  in  the  month, 
and  as  directed  in  pages  298,  299,  and  354,  which  see. 

Propagating  Green-house  Plants. 

Continue  to  propagate  most  kinds  of  plants,  by  cuttings,  suckers, 
seeds  and  layers,  as  directed  in  pages  300,  and  355.  The  China  and 
Otaheite  roses,  may  now  be  encreased  abundantly  by  cuttings,  they 
will  strike  root  freely,  and  flower  handsomely  in  autumn. 

Seedling  Oranges  and  Lemons. 

The  seedling  oranges  and  lemons,  raised  from  the  late  sowings  of 
last  year,  should  early  in  this  month,  if  not  clone  before,  be  trans- 
planted into  separate  pots  ;  they  ought  to  be  watered  immediately, 
and  shaded  from  the  sun  till  newly  rooted.  If  plunged  into  a  hot- 
bed, or  bark-bed  for  two  or  three  weeks,  and  carefully  shaded  from 
the  mid-day  sun,  it  will  greatly  facilitate  their  rooting,  and  promote 
their  growth. 

The  early  sown  seedlings  may,  towards  the  latter  end  of  the 
month,  be  planted  separately  into  small  pots,  and  treated  in  like 
manner. 

You  may  yet  sow  the  seeds  of  oranges  and  lemons  in  pots  or 
boxes,  for  stocks  ;  they  will  rise  freely  without  any  artificial  heatj 
and  make  tolerable  progress  during  the  season. 

Inarching. 

Inarching  may  now  be  performed  on  oranges,  lemons,  and  any 
other  plants  that  you  desire  to  propagate  in  that  way,  for  the  me- 
thod see  page  249. 

Bringing  out  the  Green-House  Plants. 

About  the  tenth  of  this  month,  two  or  three  days  earlier  or  later, 
according  to  the  season  and  situation,  you  may,  in  the  middle  states, 
begin  to  bring  out  the  more  hardy  kinds  of  green-house  plants, 
such  as  the  Viburnum  Tinus,  Prunus  Lauro-cerasus,  Prunus  lusi- 
tanica,  Nerium  Oleander,  Hydrangea  hortensis,  Myrtles,  Pome- 
granates, Oranges,  Lemons,  Magnolia  grandiflora,  Lagerstrcemia 
indica,  Daphne  indicum,  and  all  the  other  hardy  kinds :  the  more 
tender,  and  tenderest  sorts,  are  to  be  brought  out  successively,  so 
that  the  entire  may  be  abroad  by  the  twentieth  of  the  month. 

In  the  eastern  states  this  work  must  be  delayed  for  a  week  or  two 
longer,  according  to  the  respective  climates,  and  not  attempted, 
while  there  is  any  danger  remaining  from  night  frosts  ;  but  when 
this  is  over,  the  sooner  the  plants  are  taken  out  the  better,  especially 


MAY.]  THE  GREEN-HOUSE.  393 

the  more  hardy  kinds.:  by  no  means  ought  they  to  be  continued  a 
day  longer  in  the  house,  than  their  preservation  from  frost  and  cold 
severe  weather  requires,  as  at  this  season  the  young  shoots,  of  many 
kinds,  will  be  growing  freely,  and  if  deprived  of  the  benefit  of  the 
open  air,  they  would  become  weak  and  sickly. 

Generally,  when  the  plants  are  first  brought  out  of  the  green- 
house, it  would  be  advisable  to  place  them  in  a  warm  situation, 
where  the  wind  can  have  but  little  power ;  about  ten  or  twelve  days 
after,  they  will  be  somewhat  hardened  to  the  open  air,  and  may 
then  be  removed  to  the  places  where  they  are  to  remain  during  the 
season. 

Every  plant  as  soon  as  brought  out,  should  be  cleared  from  all  de- 
cayed leaves,  dust  and  foulness  of  every  kind,  and  the  heads  of  the 
whole,  ought  to  be  watered,  all  over,  by  means  of  a  watering  pot,  or 
a  hand  engine ;  which,  will  greatly  refresh  and  cause  them  to  as- 
sume a  lively  appearance. 

If  not  done  before,  take  out  the  earth  from  the  tops  of  the  pots 
or  tubs,  and  fill  them  up  with  fresh  compost ;  this  will  greatly  en- 
courage their  flowering  and  promote  a  free  growth ;  and  if  their 
stems,  Sec.  had  not  been  pruned  and  dressed  in  the  former  months, 
it  should  now  be  done. 

It  would  be  very  advisable,  immediately  on  bringing  out,  to  place 
the  pots  of  small  growing  plants  on  a  stage,  and  the  larger  kinds  on 
boards  or  planks,  supported  on  bricks  or  pieces  of  timber,  in  order 
to  prevent  the  earth  worms  from  entering  at  their  bottoms  ;  which, 
if  once  admitted,  never  fail  to  destroy  the  texture  of  the  soil,  and 
render  it  like  a  honey-comb  ;  consequently,  it  cannot  long  retain 
moisture,  and  becomes  more  pervious  than  necessary,  to  wind  and 
weathet,  to  the  great  injury  of  the  plants,  and  trouble  of  the  gar- 
dener ;  for  the  pots  or  tubs,  so  perforated,  will  require  to  be  watered 
double  as  often,  as  those  that  are  free  from  earth-worms. 

When  pots  are  plunged  in  the  earth,  there  ought  to  be  a  piece 
of  shingle,  board,  or  slate,  placed  immediately  under  the  bottom  of 
each,  to  prevent  the  roots  from  working  out  through  the  holes 
into  the  surrounding  earth  ;  for  although  their  rooting  in  this  way, 
will  cause  them  to  grow  more  vigorously,  it,  to  many,  when  taken 
up,  proves  very  injurious  ;  therefore  to  avoid  this  evil  as  much  as 
possible,  the  pots  should  be  turned  round,  at  least,  once  a  week  dur- 
ing the  season,  to  break  off  the  extending  fibres  that  may  have 
pushed  through  those  apertures  at  bottom. 

The  hard-wooded  kinds  are,  generally,  not  so  much  injured  by 
this,  as  those  of  a  more  spongy  texture  ;  but  it  is  ultimately,  of 
more  injury  than  service  to  every  plant,  and  therefore,  ought  to  be 
avoided  as  much  as  possible. 

3E 


394 


THE  HOT-HOUSE. 


FIRE-HEAT  should  now  be  totally  discontinued,  except  in 
the  more  northern  parts  of  the  eastern  states,  where  a  moderate 
fire  at  night,  during  the  first  week  of  the  month,  may  in  some  sea- 
sons be  necessary  ;  but  still  continue  for  the  Pine  Apples,  a  con- 
staRt  moderate  heat  in  the  bark -bed,  agreeably  to  the  intimations 
given  last  month. 

Pine 

The  Pine  Apple  plants  will  now  require  frequent  and  moderate 
refreshments  of  water,  which,  during  the  summer  season,  should 
be  given  late  in  the  afternoon ;  let  this  not  be  given  in  too  great 
quantities  at  any  one  time,  for  such,  would  not  only  damp  the  heat  of 
the  bark,  but  also  loosen  the  plants  in  the  pots. 

As  the  weather  increases  in  heat,  give  air  in  proportion,  both  by 
the  front  and  roof-lights1;  but  especially  when  the  thermometer 
rises  above  seventy  degrees  of  Fahrenheit ;  for  that  is  necessary, 
in  order  to  have  large  and  good  fruit.  When  the  weather  gets  very 
hot,  the  front  lights  must  be  kept  open  night  and  day,  but  the 
roof-lights  should  be  closed  every  night,  particularly  in  cloudy 
weather,  to  preserve  the  tan-pit  from  sudden  rains,  and  ought  to  be 
opened  again  early  in  the  morning,  especially  in  warm  weather. 

General  Care  of  all  Exotics  in  the  Hot-House. 

Continue  also,  to  give  plenty  of  air  to  the  plants  in  all  the  hot- 
house departments ;  supply  them  duly  with  proper  waterings  ;  and, 
if  any  want  shifting  into  larger  pots,  let  it  be  done  now  as  soon  as 
possible, 'keeping  the  whole  clear  from  decayed  leaves,  &c.  if  casual 
irregularities  occur  in  the  shoots  or  branches,  prune  or  regulate 
them,  as  may  be  required,  and  cut  away  any  decayed  parts  ;  observ- 
ing the  same  general  directions  as  in  the  tv/o  preceding  months. 

Propagating  the  Plants. 

You  may  still  continue  to  propagate,  such  plants  as  you  desire,, 
by  cuttings,  layers,  suckers  and  seeds,  in  the  manner  directed  in 
March  and  Afiril. 

Any  time  in  this  month  you  may  plant  cuttings  or  slips  of  Cac- 
tuses, Euphorbiums,  Aloes,  Agaves,  Sedums,  Mesembryanthe- 
mums,  Stapelias,  and  other  succulent  plants,  laying  them  in  a  dry 
shady  place  a  week  or  ten  days,  according  as  they  are  more  or  less 
succulent,  before  they  are  planted,  that  the  wounded  parts  may  heal 
over ;  otherwise,  they  are  subject  to  imbibe  too  much  moisture  and 


HAY.]  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  395 

rot :  when  they  are  planted,  they  should  be  placed  in  the  shade,  or 
plunged  in  the  tan-pit  till  newly  rooted,  giving  them  a  little  water 
as  necessity  may  require.  The  hardy  sorts  may  be  planted  in  a 
bed  of  light  sandy  earth*,  where,  if  they  are  screened  with  mats,  for 
sometime,  they  will  freely  take  root. 

Bringing  out  the  Hot-house   Plants. 

About  the  twenty-fifth  of  this  month,  you  may,  in  the  middle 
states,  begin  to  bring  out  the  hardier  sorts  of  hot-house  plants  ;  if 
they  had  been  removed  into  the  green-house  eight  or  ten  days  pre- 
viously, it  would  be  of  service,  as  there,  they  would  gradually  be 
prepared,  hardened,  and  become  in  a  good  condition  for  a  removal 
into  the  open  air.  The  more  tender  kinds  should  not  be  brought 
out,  till  the  first  week  in  June,  but  if  previously  removed  into  the 
green-house,  for  a  week  or  ten  days,  it  would  be  the  better  way  ; 
always  observing,  wherever  they  are,  to  give  them  abundance  of  air, 
to  harden  and  prepare  them  for  the  transition. 

In  the  eastern  states,  the  above  work  is  to  be  deferred,  in  every 
instance,  from  one  to  two  weeks  later,  according  to  climate  and  the 
local  situation  of  the  place  ;  and  to  the  southward  of  the  middle 
states,  it  may  be  done  somewhat  earlier. 

Should  you  have  no  pine-apples  in  your  hot-house,  and  that  there 
are  plants  permanently  growing  in  any  beds  or  borders  therein, 
the  roof-lights  should  be  totally  taken  off,  when  the  other  plants 
are  out,  that  these  may  receive  the  full  benefit  of  the  open  air 
during  the  summer  months,  &c. 

As  to  the  manner  of  placing  and  treating  the  pots  when,  and  after 
being  brought  out,  I  would  advise  the  same  as  recommended  for 
the  green-house  plants,  which  see. 

You  must  be  very  careful  when  you  plunge  any  of  your  pots,  to 
make  it  a  particular  point  to  turn  them  round  in  their  seats,  once  a 
week,  in  order,  that  such  roots  as  run  into  the  ground,  through  the 
holes  in  the  bottoms,  may  be  broken  off;  for,  though  these  would, 
for  the  moment,  encourage  the  growth  of  the  plants,  when  you 
come  to  take  them  up  for  housing,,  the  sudden  deprivation  of  their 
usual  supply  of  nourishment,  would  give  them  such  a  check,  as  se^ 
riously  to  injure  them  ;  and  besides,  they  would  be  but  ill  rooted  in 
the  pots,  and  badly  prepared  to  extract  the  necessary  nourishment; 
during  winter. 


396 


JUNE. 


WORK  TO  BE  DONE  IN  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN, 


Melons  and  Cucumbers. 

ABOUT  the  first  of  this  month,  all  your  melons  and  cucum- 
bers, that  have  been  hitherto  under  the  protection  of  glasses,  or 
paper-frames,  may  be  fully  exposed  to  the  open  air ;  having  been 
previously  and  gradually  inured  thereto.  A  piece  of  shingle  or 
board  should  be  laid  under  each  fruit,  of  the  early  melons,  to  pre- 
serve them  from  the  damp  of  the  earth,  which  would  injure  their 
flavour.  Occasional  refrehments  of  water  will  be  necessary,  but 
particularly  to  the  cucumbers. 

Your  principal  or  general  crops  of  melons  and  cucumbers,  in 
the  open  ground,  should  now  be  kept  totally  free  from  weeds  ;  the 
ground  between  the  plants  must  be  frequently  hoed,  and  the  earth 
drawn  gently  to  the  stems  of  the  latest  sown  ;  the  vines  should  be 
laid  off,  in  a  neat  and  regular  manner,  and  when  any  of  them  are 
too  luxuriant,  check  them,  by  nipping  off  the  extremities  of  the 
runners. 

In  the  last  week  of  this  month,  sow  general  crops  of  cucumbers 
and  melons  for  pickling ;  which  is  to  be  done  in  the  same  manner, 
as  directed  in  page  360.  The  long  oval  musk  melon,  and  the  long 
prickly  cucumber,  are  in  general  estimation  for  this  purpose  ;  but 
the  cluster  cucumber,  on  account  of  its  numerous  bearing,  and 
small  fruit,  is  by  many  preferred. 

Water  Melons. 

If  not  done  before,  thin  your  water  melons,  leaving  but  three  of  the 
best  plants  in  each  hill,  and  draw  the  earth  with  a  hoe  up  round  the 
hiils,  till  the  steins  of  the  plants  are  covered  up  to  the  seed  leaves  ; 
the  ground  between  them  must  be  kept  perfectly  free  from  weeds, 
either  by  hoeing,  or  (if  cultivated  on  a  large  scale,)  by  ploughing- 
and  harrowing,  in  the  early  part  of  the  season. 

Squashes  and  Pumpkins. 

Squashes  and  pumpkins  may  be  treated  in  the  same  way,  as  di- 
rected for  Water  Melons ;  they  are  more  hardy,  and  do  not  require 
so  very  particular  attention  ;  however,  the  ground  must  be  kept 
loose  and  free  from  weed,  for  it  will  be  in  vain  otherwise  to  expect 
proli table  crops. 


JUNE.]  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  397 


Sweet  Potatoes. 

Your  sweet  potatoes,  must  have  earth  drawn  round  the  hills, 
to  enlarge  them  and  encourage  the  growth  of  the  roots,  iay  oft'  the 
vines  regularly,  and  keep  the  ground  very  ckan. 

Cauliflowers. 

The  early  cauliflowers,  will  now  be  producing  their  heads  abun- 
dantly ;  care  must  be  taken  to  break  down  the  leaves  to  preserve 
the  flowers  from  sun  and  rain,  as  directed  in  page  362. 

Those  plants  which  are  still  advancing  in  growth,  or  part  coming 
into  flower,  should,  in  very  dry  weather,  be  frequently  well  watered  ; 
which  will  greatly  enlarge  the  size  of  the  flowers.  For  this  purpose, 
draw  the  earth  round  each  plant,  bason  formed,  to  retain  the  water 
till  soaked  down  about  the  roots.  This  practice  is  absolutely  neces- 
sary in  dry  seasons. 

The  cauliflower  plants  from  late  sowing,  should  now  be  planted 
out  finally,  as  directed  in  page  306  ;  taking  care,  either  to  do  it  in 
moist  or  cloudy  weather,  or  to  give  shade  and  water  after  planting  ; 
a  large  cabbage  leaf  laid  over  each  plant,  will  protect  it  conside- 
rably. 

Cabbages  and  Savoys. 

Take  opportunity  of  moist  or  cloudy  weather,  and  plant  out  a  full 
crop  of  cabbages  and  savoys,  from  the  late  spring  sowings  ;  also,  of 
the  red  pickling  cabbage,  allowing  each  kind  a  sufficient  distance 
according  to  the  nature  of  its  growth,  as  directed  in  the  former 
months. 

But  in  gardens,  where  there  is  no  ground  vacant,  from  other 
crops,  or  where  there  is  a  necessity  of  making  the  most  of  every 
piece  of  kitchen  ground,  you  may  plant  the  savoy  and  cabbage 
plants  between  rows  of  forward  beans,  and  early  cauliflowers,  or 
such  crops  as  stand  distant,  and  are  soon  to  come  oft'  the  ground  ; 
observing  to  give  each  plant  a  little  water  immediately  after  plant- 
ing, unless  the  ground  is  sufficiently  saturated  with  moisture. 

You  may  now  sow  seeds  of  any  of  the  early  heading  kinds  of 
cabbage,  such  as  the  early  Smyrna,  York,  Sugarloaf,  or  Battersea, 
to  come  in  both  for  small  hearts  and  hard  cabbages  in  autumn. 

Borecole,  Brussel'x  sprouts,  Jerusalem  Kale,  and  Turnefi  Cabbage. 

The  early  plants  of  either  of  the  above  kinds,  may  now  be  plant- 
ed out,  as  directed  in  May  ;  the  late  sown  crops,  should  be  thinned, 
and  those  pulled  out,  planted  in  nursery  beds,  four  inches  asunder, 
giving  them  a  good  watering  when  planted,  and  afterwards  occa- 
sionally, till  well  established :  here  they  are  to  remain,  till  of  suffi- 
cient strength  for  planting  out  finally. 


398  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  [JUNE, 


Broccoli. 

Plant  out  finally,  such  broccoli  plants,  as  are  of  sufficient  size ; 
choose  for  this  purpose  a  bed  of  rich  mellow  earth,  and  let  them 
be  planted  at  the  distances  mentioned  in  page  364. 

Thin  the  late  sown  crops,  and  plant  those  pulled  out,  into  nurse- 
ry rows  to  obtain  strength,  giving  them  a  good  watering  imme- 
diately after  planting, 

Early  in  the  month  sow  some  more  seed  for  a  succession  crop, 
to  produce  their  heads  in  February,  &c.  For  particulars  see 
page  364. 

Celery. 

The  celery  plants  that  have  arrived  to  a  sufficient  size,  should 
now  be  finally  planted  out  into  trenches. 

Choose  for  this  purpose  a  piece  of  rich  ground,  in  an  open  expo- 
sure; mark  out  the  trenches  by  line,  ten  or  twelve  inches  wide,  and 
allow  the  space  of  three  feet  between  trench  and  trench,  which  will 
be  sufficient  for  the  early  plantations. 

Dig  each  trench  a  moderate  spade  deep,  laying  the  dug  out  earth 
equally  on  each  side,  between  the  trenches ;  lay  three  inches  deep 
of  very  rotten  dung  in  the  bottom  of  each  trench,  then  pare  the  sides 
and  dig  the  dung  and  parings  with  an  inch  or  two  of  the  loose 
mould  at  bottom,  incorporating  all  well  together,  and  put  in  the 
plants. 

Previous  to  planting,  trim  the  tops  of  the  plants,  by  cutting  off 
the  long  straggling  leaves,  and  also  the  ends  of  their  roots,  leaving 
the  former,  about  six  inches  long,  and  the  latter  two. 

Let  them  be  planted  with  a  dibble,  in  single  rows,  along  the  mid- 
dle of  each  trench,  allowing  the  distance  of  four  or  five  inches  be- 
tween plant  and  plant ;  as  soon  as  planted,  give  them  a  plentiful 
watering,  and  let  them  be  shaded  until  they  strike  root  and  begin  to 
grow. 

Small  sticks  may  be  placed  across  the  trenches,  and  on  these, 
boards  or  pine  planks  laid  lengthwise  ;  or,  pine  or  cedar  boughs 
may  be  laid  taver  the  plants,  which  are  to  be  taken  off,  as  soon  as 
they  begin  to  grow. 

The  plants  when  grown  to  the  height  of  eight  or  ten  inches,  should 
have  their  first  landing ;  this  must  be  done  in  a  dry  day  ;  the  earth 
should  be  broken  small  and  laid  in  gently  to  both  sides  of  the  plants, 
always  taking  care  to  leavs  the  hearts  and  tops  free  ;  reapeating  it 
every  ten  or  twelve  days,  till  they  are  blanched  of  a  sufficient  length 
for  use. 

Peas. 

Though  peas  sown  at  this  time,  do  not  always  succeed  in  bear- 
ing abundantly,  yet  a  few,  to  keep  up  a  regular  succession,  may  be 
sown,  at  two  or  three  different  times  in  the  month,  and  if  the  sea-, 
son  should  prove  somewhat  racist,  there  will  be  a  chance  of  obtain- 
ing a  handsome  crop.     The  large  marrowfat,  glory  of  England  and 


JUNE.]  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  399 

other  large  kinds,  may  now  succeed  tolerably  well,  and  it  will  also, 
be  proper,  to  sow  a  few  of  the  best  hotspur  and  dwarf  kinds. 

If  the  weather  and  ground  be  very  dry,  it  will  be  of  some  use  to 
soak  them  a  few  hours  in  soft  river  or  pond  water  previous  to  sow- 
ing, otherwise  water  the  drills  and  then  sow  them. 

Let  those  crops,  if  convenient,  be  sown  in  moist  ground,  but  not 
in  a  shady  place  ;  in  such  a  situation,  the  plants  would  draw  up  and 
be  good  for  nothing  ;  observe  to  allow  plenty  of  room  between  the 
rows,  for  at  this  season  much  depends  on  their  having  air  and  li- 
berty to  grow. 

Asparagus. 

The  asparagus  now  running  up  to  seed,  should  be  cleared  from 
weeds,  and  also,  your  new  plantations  ;  likewise,  the  seedlings  in- 
tended for  next  year's  planting  ;  for  if  suffered  to  be  overrun  with 
weeds,  it  would  ruin  them. 

Transplanting  Leeks. 

Select  a  piece  of  good  ground  for  this  purpose,  manure  and  dig 
it  well,  then  draw  from  the  seed-beds  a  sufficiency  of  the  stoutest 
plants,  trim  the  long  fibres  of  the  roots,  and  cut  off  the  tops  of  the 
leaves  ;  this  done,  plant  them  in  rows  a  foot  asunder,  and  six  inches 
plant  from  plant  in  the  rows,  inserting  their  shanks  into  the  earth 
up  to  their  leaves  ;  by  this  means  they  will  grow  very  large,  and 
the  part  inserted  in  the  earth  become  white  and  tender. 

Lettuces. 

Transplant  and  sow  lettuces  as  directed  last  month,  in  page  366. 
Let  this  be  done  in  moist  weather,  particularly  the  transplanting  ; 
for  if  in  a  great  drought,  the  plants  wrill  not  succeed  well :  the  place 
must  be  open  and  fully  exposed,  otherwise,  they  will  start  to  seed, 
before  their  arriving  at  any  tolerable  perfection.  If  you  are  under 
the  necessity  of  planting  them  in  dry  weather,  let  it  be  done  late 
in  the  afternoon,  and  immediately  give  them  a  plentiful  wa- 
tering. 

Small  Sallading. 

Continue  to  sow  cresses  and  other  small  sallading,  once  a  week  on 
a  shady  border.  They  should  be  often  refreshed  with  water,  in  dry 
weather,  and  this  ought  to  be  repeated,  both  before  and  after  the 
plants  appear. 

Kidney  Beans. 

Sow  successive  crops  of  Kidney-beans,  in  the  beginning,  middle, 
and  towards  the  latter  end  of  this  month,  as  directed  in  page  367  ; 
cither  of  the  dwarf  or  running  kinds,  may  now  be  planted  with'  good 
success. 

Should  the  ground  happen  to  be  very  dry  at  the  time  of  planting, 
the  drills  ought  to  be  well  watered  previous  to  the  beans  being 


400  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  [JUMK. 

dropped  therein  ;  this  should  not  be  omitted  in  dry  weather,  as  it 
will  greatly  promote  the  sprouting  of  the  seeds,  and  the  crops  will 
rise  sooner  and  be  more  regular. 

Land  up  the  rows  of  kidney-beans  planted  last  month  ;  which 
will  greatly  strengthen  and  bring  forward  the  plants ;  and  place 
sticks  or  poles  to  the  running  kinds,  which  are  now  beginning  to 
advance  in  growth. 

Carolina  and  Lima   Jleans, 

Hoe  and  clean  the  ground  between  your  crops  of  Carolina  and 
Lima  beans  ;  see  that  all  are  properly  supported  with  sticks  or 
poles,  and  draw  up  some  earth  round  the  stems  of  the  plants.  A 
few  of  the  early  Carolina  kind,  may  be  planted  about  the  first  of 
this  month,  for  a  late  crop ;  for  the  method  of  planting,  &c.  see 
page  368. 

Radishes. 

Although  radishes  do  not  generally  succeed  well  at  this  season, 
yet,  a  few  of  the  salmon  coloured  may  be  sown  at  different  times  in 
the  month :  should  the  season  prove  moist,  they  may  do  tolerably 
well.  Some  of  the  short-top  and  white  turnep-rooted  kinds,  may 
also  now  be  sown  ;  and  toward  the  middle  or  end  of  the  month,  you 
may  sow  a  good  crop  of  the  white  and  black  winter  or  Spanish 
radish,  to  draw  early  in  autumn. 

Carrots,  Parsnefi*y  and  Onions. 

The  crops  of  carrots,  parsneps  and  onions,  must  now  be  kept 
clean  and  free  from  weeds  ;  and  if  you  observe  that  your  onions  in- 
cline more  to  tops  than  roots,  you  may  with  a  long  stick  gently  lay 
over  their  tops  on  one  side,  so  as  to  bend  them,  and  in  a  few  days 
after,  lay  them  back  to  the  opposite  side,  which  will  check  the 
ascent  of  the  juices  and  cause  the  bulbs  to  swell. 

Beets. 

The  crops  of  beet,  should  be  kept  very  clean  and  the  plants  thin- 
ned to  proper  distances,  that  they  may  have  room  to  swell  and  grow 
large. 

The  seeds  of  these  plants  are  generally  sown  in  drills,  or  rows, 
a  foot  or  more  asunder  ;  and  where  that  method  was  practised,  you 
can  now  more  readily  clear  out  the  weeds  and  thin  the  plants  ;  ob- 
serving to  thin  them  to  ten  inches  distance  in  the  rows  ;  also,  where 
the  seed  was  sown  broad-cast,  so  as  the  plants  stand  promiscuous- 
ly, they  must  likewise  be  cut  out  to  ten  or  twelve  inches  distance, 
plant  Irom  plant,  and  the  roots  will  grow  to  a  large  size  accordingly. 

You  may  now  sow  succession  crops  of  red,  green,  and  white 
beet ;  and  also  of  the^  Mangel  wurtzel,  or  root  of  scarcity,  they  will 
all  succeed  well  from  this  sowing,  but  the  three  last  kinds  are  gene- 
rally cultivated  for  their  leaves,  see  page  187. 


JUNE  ]  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  40 1 


Turnefis. 

Sow  some  turnep  seed,  early  in  the  month,  for  although  there  is 
no  great  prospect,  at  this  time,  of  obtaining  good  roots,  some  may 
be  got  to  answer  for  soups,  &c. 

Let  the  seed  be  sown  in  an  open  exposure,  immediately  after  the 
earth  is  newly  dug,  and  when  raked  in?  the  ground  should  be 
rolled,  or  clapped  close  with  the  back  of  the  spade.  There  is  no- 
thing that  protects  crops  of  turneps,  cabbages,  See.  from  the  depre- 
dations of  the  fly,  so  well  as  rolling ;  for,  when  the  surface  is  ren- 
dered completely  smooth,  these  insects  are  deprived  of  the  harbour 
they  would  otherwise  have,  under  the  clods  and  small  lumps  of 
earth,  to  which  they  generally  resort  for  shelter,  from  such 
changes  of  weather  as  are  disagreeable  to  them. 

This  method  will  be  found  more  effectual,  than  soaking  the  seed 
in  any  preparation,  or  dusting  the  plants  with  any  composition 
•whatever. 

The  advancing  crops  of  turnep,  should  be  hoed  and  thinned  to 
proper  distances,  and  this  ought  always  to  be  done  at  an  early  pe- 
riod of  their  growth.  As  they  do  not  grow  large  at  this  season, 
six  or  seven  inches  apart,  will  be  sufficient. 

Scorzonera,  Skirrets,  Salsafy,  and  Hamburgh  Parsley. 

Thin  and  clear  from  weeds  the  crops  of  scorzonera,  salsafy,  skir- 
ret,  and  large-rooted  parsley  ;  which  perform  either  by  hand  or 
small-hoeing  ;  thinning  out  the  'plants  to  six  inches  distance,  and 
cutting  up  all  the  weeds. 

Endive  ^ 

Transplant  endive  that  is  now  of  a  sufficient  size  ;  for  the  me- 
thod, see  page  373. 

Sow  another  crop  of  curled  endive,  to  keep  up  a  regular  succes- 
sion, when  wanted ;  and  also,  some  of  thebroad  Batavian  kind,  this 
grows  very  large,  whitens  well,  if  tied  up,  and  is  very  palatable. 
Sow  more  towards  the  end  of  the  month. 

Okra,  Tomatoes,  and  Egg-Plant. 

Earth  up  your  advancing  crops  of  okra  ;  where  too  thick,  thin 
them  to  the  distances  mentioned  in  page  318,  and  keep  the  ground 
free  from  weeds. 

In  the  early  part  of  this  month,  plant  out  a  general  crop  of  toma- 
toes and  egg-plants,  as  directed  in  pages  319,  372  and  373. 

Cardoons. 

Plant  out  cardoons  in  a  bed  of  good  earth,  at  the  distance  of  four 
feet  from  one  another,  every  way.:  they  may  either  be  planted  on 

3  F 


402  THE      FRUIT-GARDEN.  [JUNK; 

the  level,  or  in  holes  made  bason  form,  at  the  above  distances,  pre- 
viously laying  some  rotten  manure  in  each  hole,  and  mixing  the 
earth  therewith  ;  one  good  plant  is  sufficient  in  a  place,  as  they  rise 
to  the  height  of  three  or  four  feet  and  require  a  considerable 
quantity  of  earth  to  blanch  them.  Observe,  before  planting,  to 
dress  the  tops  and  roots  as  directed  for  celery  ;  and  as  they  ad- 
vance in  growth,  they  are  to  be  earthed  up  for  blanching,  keeping 
the  leaves  close  together. 

These  plants  are  a  species  of  Cynara,  or  artichoke  ;  the  stalks  of 
the  leaves  are  used,  when  well  blanched,  in  sallads,  soups,  and  for 
stewing,  &c. 

Red-Peppers^  or  Capsicums. 

In  the  early  part  of  this  month,  you  should  plant  out  from  the 
seed-beds,  full  and  general  crops  of  the  various  kinds  of  capsicums, 
as  directed  in  page  372. 

Plant  Pot  and  other  Herbs,  &c. 

Plant  out  from  the  seed-beds,  the  young  plants  of  thyme,  hysop, 
marjoram,  winter  savory,  Sec.  Sec.  let  this  be  done,  if  possible,  in 
moist  or  cloudy  weather.  Prepare  for  that  purpose  some  beds, 
three  and  a  half  feet  wide,  rake  the  surface  smooth,  and  put  in  the 
plants  in  straight  rows,  setting  them  six  or  eight  inches  distant  every 
way,  and  water  them  immediately.  Many  of  these  kinds  may  be 
planted,  occasionally,  as  edgings,  along  the  sides  of  any  particular 
beds  or  borders. 

All  the  large  growing  kinds  of  medicinal  herbs,  such  as  angelica, 
lovage,  &c.  ought  to  be  planted  a  foot  or  eighteen  inches  asunder, 
in  proportion  to  their  usual  growth.  You  may  yet  make  slips  or 
cuttings  of  lavender,  rosemary,  thyme,  hysop,  &c.  and  plant  them 
in  shady  borders. 

Gathering  Herbs. 

All  kinds  of  herbs,  such  as  mint,  balm,  lavender,  clary,  sage, 
rosemary,  Sec.  that  are  gathered  for  drying,  or  for  distillation  and 
other  purposes,  should  be  cut  of!',  when  just  beginning  to  come  into 
flower,  and  laid  in  the  shade  to  dry  gradually  ;  which  will  render 
them  much  better  for  any  purpose,  than  if  they  were  dried  in  the 
sun. 


THE  FRUIT-GARDEN. 

Wall  and  Espalier  Fruit -Trees, 

WHERE  the  apricot,  peach,  nectarine  and  other  wall  or  espa- 
lier trees,  were  neglected  last  month,  or  not  carefully  attended  to, 
you  may  in  the  early  part  of  this,  thin  the  fruit  as  then  directed ; 


JUNE]  THE  ORCHARD.  403 

rub  off  all  fore-right  or  ill  placed  shoots,  and  train  others  regularly 
at  proper  distances :  be  not  too  officious  with  the  knife  at  this  sea- 
son, nor  pull  off  any  of  the  leaves  from  the  branches,  unless  they 
are  distempered  ;  for  the  pulling  off  the  leaves  will  expose  the  fruit 
too  much  to  the  sun,  and  thereby  greatly  check  their  growth ;  be- 
sides it  would  greatly  injure  the  buds  which  are  formed  at  the  foot- 
stalks of  those  leaves.  For  further  particulars,  respecting  fruit- 
trees,  see  the  Fruit-Garden  for  May,  which,  are  generally  applica- 
ble in  this  month. 

Strawberries. 

The  ^  strawberry  plants  in  general  will,  early  in  the  month,  be 
coming  into  full  bearing,  and  if  watered  occasionly  between  the 
rows  as  directed  in  page  378,  it  will  swell  the  fruit  to  a4much  larger 
size,  and  greatly  encourage  the  bloom  and  setting  of  an  abundant 
crop. 

Should  the  weather  prove  moist  or  cloudy,  this  will  be  a  very 
proper  season,  to  make  new  plantations  of  the  various  kinds  of 
strawberries  ;  observing  the  method  directed  in  page  215.  But  it 
would  be  more  advisable,  at  this  time,  to  plant  some  of  the  best 
runner-plants  of  this  year's  production,  into  nursery  beds  in  shady 
borders,  six  inches  asunder,  there  to  remain  and  get  strength  till 
September  or  October,  and  then  to  plant  them  with  balls  of  earth 
where  they  are  to  stand  for  fruiting.  Frequent  waterings  will  now 
be  very  necessary  for  the  young  plantations. 

Be  particular  in  selecting  the  best  kinds,  and  of  the  stoutest  and 
most  vigorous  growth  ;  dress  or  trim  their  roots,  and  cut  off  all  the 
strings  or  runners,  previous  to  planting. 

Though  it  is  not  common  to  propagate  strawberries  at  this  sea- 
son, yet  if  done,  and  duly  watered  till  they  are  well  rooted,  the 
plants  will  be  stronger,  and  bear  much  more  abundantly  next  season, 
than  if  deferred  till  September,  or  October ;  but  if  the  weather  should 
not  happen  to  be  peculiarly  favourable,  I  would  advise  them  to  be 
planted  for  the  present,  in  nursery  beds,  in  a  shady  border,  as  before 
observed;  taking  good  care  to  water  them  frequently  till  well 
rooted. 

You  may,  however,  any  time  this  month,  plant  out  some  of  the 
young  runner-plants  of  the  Alpine  or  prolific  strawberry,  and  if 
shaded  and  watered  till  they  have  taken  fresh  root,  they  will  soon 
bear  fruit  on  the  present  plants,  and  in  August  and  September,  on 
the  runners  produced  in  the  intermediate  time. 


THE  ORCHARD. 

AT  this  time  there  is  very  little  to  be  done  in  the  Orchard, 
but  a  repetition  of  what  was  recommended  in  page  379,  to^  which  I 
refer  you. 


404  THE  NURSERY.  [JUNE. 

It  would  be  very  proper,  when  you  observe  many  of  your  young 
fruit  punctured  by  insects,  and,  consequently,  in  a  declining  state, 
gently  to  shake  the  trees,  and  pick  and  carry  away  to  the  pigs,  such 
as  fall  to  the  ground,  for  the  reasons  assigned  in  page  136,  Sec 
which  see. 


THE  VINEYARD. 

DURING  the  early  part  of  this  month,  the  Vines  will  be  in 
full  bloom  ;  which,  in  the  middle  states,  generally  happens  '  about 
the  first  week  thereof,  a  little  earlier,  or  later  according  to  the  sea- 
son ;  and  although  the  Vines  may  now  require  some  attendance,  it 
is  dangerous  to  administer  it  until  the  bloom  is  over,  lest  the 
blossoms  should  be  broken  off  thereby,  or  otherwise  injured ;  but 
when  that  period  arrives,  let  the  young  shoots  as  they  advance,  be 
neatly  and  regularly  tied  up  to  the  stakes,  not  too  close,  that  they 
may  enjoy  the  full  benefit  of  the  sun  and  air ;  at  the  same  time, 
displace  all  weakly  and  unnecessary  growths  ;  and  any  young  side 
shoots,  growing  out  of  the  maia  ones,  should  be  nipped  off  at  their 
first  appearance. 

Towards  the  end  of  the  month,  or,  when  the  bloom  is  over  and 
the  fruit  is  set,  if  the  weeds  have  made  much  progress,  they  should 
be  extirpated  by  the  most  convenient  means. 

The  young  vines  of  one,  two,  or  three  years  growth,  should  now 
be  carefully  tied  to  the  poles  placed  for  their  support,  and  never  suf- 
fered to  trail  about  on  the  surface  of  the  earth  ;  the  ground  must  be 
kept  perfectly  free  from  weeds,  as  these  would  rob  the  plants,  of  a 
great  portion  of  their  nourishment,  and  exhaust  the  ground  to  no 
purpose. 


THE  NURSERY. 


Weed,  Shade,  and  Wafer, 

YOU  must  observe  in  this  month,  as  directed  in  the  former, 
to  keep  the  ground  between  your  rows  of  trees,  entirely  free  from 
weeds  ;  for  the;*0  are  very  injurious  to  the  plants,  and  nothing  can 
have  a  worse  appearance  than  a  Nursery  overgrown  with  weeds  ; 
therefore,  this  caution  cannot  be  too  often  repeated.  Observe  also, 
to  keep  the  seed-beds  in  which  the  seeds  of  trees  and  shrubs  were 
gown,  perfectly  clean,  for  these  plants  being  young,  are  soon  greatly 
injured,  if  not  totally  destroyed,  when  overrun  with  weeds. 


JUNK.]  THE  NURSERY.  405 

The  beds  of  small  young  tender  seedlings,  should  now  be  shaded 
from  the  mid-day  sun,  particularly,  the  pines,  firs,  and  other  ever- 
greens in  general ;  and  also,  the  more  delicate  and  rare  deciduous 
trees,  shrubs,  and  herbaceous  plants.  They,  however,  must  not  be 
kept  close  nor  shaded  too  long  a  time,  for  that  would  draw  them  up 
weak  and  tender  ;  therefore,  give  but  a  slight  shading  from  about 
ten  to  four  or  five  o'clock,  and  that  only,  when  the  sun  is  powerful 
and  no  clouds  interrupt  its  rays. 

The  more  choice  sorts  of  new  planted  trees,  that  is,  such  as  were 
planted  late  in  the  spring,  should  have  occasional  waterings  ;  and 
observe  to  renew  the  mulch  about  their  roots,  where  it  is  decayed, 
for  at  this  season,  the  moisture  of  the  earth  will  be  soon  exhaled, 
and  the  young  fibres  dried  up  when  this  is  neglected  ;  besides,  it 
will  save  much  trouble  in  watering. 

The  seedling-beds  of  all  kinds  of  trees  and  shrubs,  but  more  espe- 
cially the  evergreens,  will  require  frequent  waterings  in  dry  wea- 
ther ;  let  it  always  be  given  late  in  the  afternoon,  frequently  and 
modertely,  as  observed  in  page  380. 

Transplanting  Seedling  Pines  and  Firs. 

It  has  been  advised  by  some  writers  on  gardening,  of  considerable 
celebrity,  to  plant  out  in  this  month  pines  and  firs,  &c.  from  the 
seed-beds  ;  and  asserted,  "  that  they  would  be  much  stronger  and 
better  prepared  to  live  through  the  winter,  by  this  treatment,  than 
if  suffered  to  remain  in  the  seed-beds ;  as  their  roots  would  be  fixed 
in  the  ground  and  their  stems  shorter.'*  The  reverse  of  this,  I 
have  experienced  in  upwards  of  twenty  years'  practice,  and  there- 
fore, have  here  noticed  it,  least  my  readers  should  be  led  astray  by 
such  respectable  authorities.  The  true  method  of  treating  these 
and  such  plants  is,  frequently  during  the  summer  months,  as  they 
advance  in  growth,  to  sift  some  loose  earth  over  them,  in  the  seed-* 
beds,  till  it  comes  up  to  the. seed  leaves  ;  by  which  the  stems  are 
protected,  and  as  it  were,  shortened  without  disturbing  their  roots 
or  checking  their  growth  ;  and  besides,  it  tends  to  keep  the  moisture 
confined  to  the  earth,  by  preventing  its  too  sudden  evaporation,  and 
the  loose  sifted  mould,  attracts  the  dews  and  imbibes  the  rains, 
when  such  fall,  by  which  means  the  plants  are  kept  cool,  moist,  and 
in  a  constant  growing  state. 

Propagating  Evergreens,  and  other  Trees  and  Shrubs  by  Layers. 

Most  kinds  of  evergreens  and  deciduous  trees  and  shrubs,  may 
now  be  propagated  by  laying  the  present  year's  shoots  ;  being  soft 
and  tender,  they  will  emit  roots  much  more  freely  than  the  older 
wood  ;  and  several  sorts  that  would  not  root  for  two  years  if  laid  in 
spring  or  autumn,  by  this  method,  will  be  well  rooted  tht  autumn 
twelve  months  after  laying,  and  many  kinds  before  the  ensuing 
winter.  Virgin's  Bower,  Passion-flowers,.  Trumpet-flowers,  com- 
mon Jasmine,  and  most  of  the  climbing  plants,  root  immediately, 
when  laid  in  this  way.  For  the  various  methods  of  performing  this 
operation,  see  page  28  J, 


406  THE  NURSERY.  .  [JUNI. 

After  these  are  laid,  you  should  observe  to  water  them  occasion- 
ally in  dry  weather,  which  will  greatly  promote  their  rooting.  But 
these  waterings  should  not  be  too  often  repeated,  nor  too  abundant- 
ly given  at  a  time,  for  that  would  rot  the  tender  fibres,  as  they  pro- 
ceed from  the  layers  ;  therefore  the  best  method  is  to  lay  mulch  on 
the  surface  of  the  ground,  after  the  layers  are  put  down,  to  prevent 
the  sun  from  drying  it  too  fast ;  then  a  little  water  will  be  sufficient, 
and  the  layers  will  more  certainly  take  root. 

Trim  ufi  Evergreens. 

Evergreens  should  now  be  trimmed  up,  according  to  the  uses 
for  which  they  are  designed  ;  for  if  you  suffer  them  to  grow  rude  in 
summer,  they  cannot  be  so  easily  reduced  afterwards ;  besides,  the 
ruder  they  grow,  the  more  naked  they  will  be  near  the  stems. 

Newly -Grafted  and  Budded  Trees. 

Take  off  the  clay  and  loosen  the  bandages  of  your  grafted  trees, 
and  where  any  have  made  remarkably  vigorous  shoots  and  seem 
to  need  support,  to  protect  them  from  the  power  of  violent  winds, 
but  more  especially,  in  exposed  situations,  let  stakes  be  placed 
thereto,  and  the  shoots  bound  to  them  with  strings  of  bass,  or  such 
like.  _ 

The  vigorous  shoots  from  the  buds  inserted  last  season,  may  un- 
der like  circumstances  require  similar  support,  which  ought  lo  be 
given  when  deemed  necessary. 

Be  very  particular  to  rub  off  such  young  shoots  proceeding  from 
the  stocks,  as  are  independent  of  the  grafts,  or  the  inserted  bud- 
shoots  ;  for  those,  if  suffered  to  remain,  would  rob  the  grafts  and 
budded  shoots  of  a  great  portion  of  nourishment,  and  therefore, 
ought  to  be  displaced  as  often  as  they  appear. 

Budding. 

Budding  might  now  be  practised,  on  most  kinds  of  trees  and 
shrubs,  but  when  done  at  this  time,  the  inserted  buds,  generally, 
grow  in  the  present  year,  and  the  shoots  arising  therefrom,  are  much 
•weaker,  and  worse  prepared  to  withstand  the  winter  frost,  than 
those  produced  in  spring,  from  the  buds  inserted  the  preceding  au- 
tumn ;  and  in  fact,  such  seldom  make  but  indifferent  trees.  There- 
fore, it  will  be  much  better  not  to  attempt  this  work,  except  upon 
a  few  roses  or  other  shrubs,  until  the  latter  end  of  July  and  the  au- 
tumnal months,  as  hereafter  directed.  The  method  of  perform- 
ing the  operation  you  will  find  in  the  Nursery  for  July* 


JUNE.]  407 

THE  PLEASURE,  OR  FLOWER-GARDEN, 

Hyacinths  and  Tulips. 

MOST  of  your  Hyacinths  and  Tulips  will,  in  the  course  of 
this  month,  be  fit  for  taking  up;  and  then  are  to  be  treated  as 
directed  in  pages  383  and  384. 

Ranunculuses. 

When  the  foliage  and  flower-stems  of  the  ranunculuses  appear 
brown  and  dry,  vegetation  has  then  ceased,  and  it  is  the  exact  time 
to  take  up  the  roots,  because  if  they  are  suffered  to  remain  in  the 
ground  till  rainy  weather  ensues,  the  roots  will  begin  to  shoot 
afresh,  and  thereby  sustain  a  considerable  injury.  When  the  roots 
are  taken  up,  their  stems,  &c.  should  be  cut  off  close,  and  they 
should  be  placed  in  a  shady,  airy  room,  or  situation,  to  dry  gradual- 
ly ;  but  before  this  is  perfectly  accomplished  ;  it  will  be  proper  to 
clean  and  separate  them,  because,  when  quite  dried,  they  become 
hard  and  brittle,  and  there  is  great  danger  of  breaking  off  their 
claws  :  some  may  be  separated  into  many  complete  roots,  although 
they  are  so  closely  connected,  as  on  a  superficial  observation,  to 
have  the  appearance  of  only  one  large  root. 

Nothing  remains  to  be  done,  till  the  return  of  the  planting  season, 
except  to  stow  the  sorts  separately  in  bags  or  boxes,  for  the  sake  of 
convenience,  in  a  dry  room  ;  in  which  state,  they  will  retain  their 
vegetative  power  for  two  years,  but  will  be  much  weakened  if  kept 
out  of  the  ground  till  the  second. 

Anemones. 

The  appearance  that  indicates  the  proper  time  of  taking  up  the 
anemones  roots  and  their  subsequent  treatment,  are  the  same  as  for 
ranunculuses,  with  only  the  following  caution,  viz.  that  as  the  roots 
are  exceedingly  brittle,  it  is  necessary  to  handle  them  very  gently 
upon  dressing  or  cleaning  away  their  fibres  and  the  soil  that  ad- 
heres to  them ;  however,  should  only  small  pieces  break  off,  such 
should  not  be  thrown  away,  as  each  will,  in  the  course  of  two  years, 
become  a  blooming  root. 

The  constitution  of  anemones  undergoes  considerable  changes 
with  age,  which  perhaps  is,  in  a  greater  or  smaller  degree,  the  case 
with  all  other  vegetables.  The  anemone  will  not  last  more  than 
twelve  or  fifteen  years*  without  degenerating,  unless  it  be  fre- 

*  The  ranunculus  will  last  about  twenty  or  twenty-five  years  in  perfec- 
tion ;  it  afterwards  degenerates  and  perishes.  Tulips  and  many  other  kinds 
of  flowers  of  vigorous  constitutions,  will  continue  for  a  very  long  time  in 
strength  and  beauty,  so  long-  as  to  render  it  difficult,  if  not  impossible,  to  as- 
certain the  period  of  their  duration. 


408  THE  PLEASURE,  OR 

quently  removed  to  a  different  soil  and  situation,  nor  will  any  re- 
moval protract  or  prolong  its  existence  more  than  thirty  or  forty 
years ;  consequently,  the  collection  should  be  renewed,  frequently, 
by  raising  new  varieties  from  seed.  It  blows,  generally,  in  the 
greatest  perfection,  from  the  fifth  to  the  tenth  or  twelfth  year,  after 
which,  it  becomes  gradually  smaller  and  weaker  ;  and  if  the  flower 
was  originally  very  full  and  double,  with  age  it  looses  that  property 
and  the  petals  diminish  in  number,  become  small  and  irregular, 
and  finally  the  sort  perishes. 

Taking  up  early  Flowering  Bulbs^  in  General. 

All  the  different  kinds  of  spring  flowering  bulbs,  such  as  Fritilla- 
ries,  Crown  Imperials,  Crocuses,  snow-drops,  Sec.  whose  leaves  are 
now  decayed,  may  be  taken  up  and  treated  as  directed,  more  parti- 
cularly, in  the  Flower-Garden  for  last  month. 

Guernsey  and  Belladonna,  Amaryllises, 

The  roots  of  the  Guernsey  and  Belladonna  Amaryllises,  may  now, 
if  their  leaves  are  quite  decayed,  be  taken  up,  their  offsets  separated, 
and  all  the  roots  treated  as  directed  for  the  former,  in  page  390 ; 
with  this  difference,  that  during  the  winter  months,  the  Belladonna 
will  require  rather  more  care  and  protection  than  the  Guernsey 
Amaryllis  ;  but  both  may  be  considered  as  liardy  green-house  plants. 
The  roots  ought  to  be  replanted  before  the  end  of  July,  as  both 
kinds  flower  late  in  autumn.  The  soil  in  which  to  plant  them, 
should  be  a  good  fresh  loam,  mixed  with  about  a  fourth  part  of  fine 
sand,  and  the  roots  are  not  to  be  covered,  when  planted  in  pots, 
more  than  half  an  inch  above  their  crowns. 

These  plants  commonly  flower  in  October,  and  in  some  seasons 
not  till  November  ;  but  on  taking  in  the  green-house  plants,  those 
should  be  removed  with  them,  and  placed  in  the  windows,  where 
they  will  display  their  beautiful  flowers  in  great  perfection. 

In  such  of  the  southern  states,  as  the  winter  frosts  are  not  very 
severe,  both  these  kinds  may  be  planted  in  the  open  ground,  and 
two  or  three  inches  of  tan  laid  over  the  beds  on  the  approach  of 
frost,  to  protect  the  bulbs  therefrom ;  or,  the  beds  may  be  covered 
at  such  times,  with  mats  laid  on  hoops,  placed  archwise  over  them, 
for  that  purpose. 

Hardy  Autumnal  Flowering  Bulbs. 

The  beginning  or  middle  of  this  month  is  still  a  proper  time,  to 
take  up  your  yellow  Amaryllises,  Colchicums,  autumnal  Crocuses, 
and  such  other  autumnal  flowering  bulbs  as  have  their  leaves  de- 
cayed, or  in  a  declining  state. 

These  may  be  planted  again  immediately,  after  separating  their 
offsets,  or  kept  up  dry  till  July  or  early  in  August,  and  then  plant- 
ed where  they  are  to  flower  in  October,  8cc.  The  roots  when  taken 
up  are  to  be  carefully  dried  in  the  shade  as  directed  for  tulips,  &c. 


/UNI.]  FLOWER-GARDEISf.  409 

and  it  will  be  well  to  plant  them  either  in  or  before  the  last  week 
of  July  or  the  first  in  August.  By  planting  them  at  this  time,  they 
v/ill  blow  stronger  than  if  kept  too  long  out  of  the  ground.  All 
these  sorts  in  their  flowering  state,  are  generally  unattended  with 
leaves,  which  spring  up  after  tke  flowers  fade. 

It  is  not  absolutely  necessary  to  take  up  these  bulbs  every  year, 
once  in  two  or  three  years  will  do  ;  but  then  it  must  be  done,  in 
order  to  separate  the  offsets  for  increase,  and  to  plant  the  strong 
roots  in  fresh  earth,  which  will  cause  them  to  shoot  and  flower 
much  more  luxuriantly. 

Cyclamens. 

There  are  five  different  species  of  Cyclamen  described,  viz. 
the  Cyclamen  Coum,  europxum,  persicum,  hederxfolium,  and  indi- 
cum  ;  the  first  a  native  of  the  south  of  Europe,  the  second  of  Au- 
stria, the  third  of  Persia,  the  fourth  of  Italy,  and  the  fifth  of  Ceylon ; 
with  several  varieties  arising  from  these  species.  They  are  all  too 
tender  to  bear  the  winter  frosts  of  the  middle  and  eastern  states, 
and  consequently  must  be  treated  as  green-house  plants ;  where 
they  should  be  kept  in  the  front  windows,  to  have  the  benefit  of  as 
much  light  and  air  as  possible.  The  leaves  being  generally  de- 
cayed about  this  time,  the  roots  may  be  taken  up  and  replanted  im- 
mediately into  a  composition  of,  one  half  good  loamy  earth,  one 
fourth  sand,  and  one  fourth  light  moory  earth,  or  earth  of  rotten 
leaves,  all  being  well  incorporated  together.  They  do  not  require 
to  be  taken  up  oftener  than  every  second  or  third  year,  and  then  " 
only,  to  give  them  fresh  earth,  as  they  never  increase  by  offsets, 
and  are  only  propagated  by  seed,  or  by  cutting  the  roots  through 
across  the  crowns,  which  latter  method  is,  generally,  very  unsuc- 
cessful. 

The  first  and  second  sorts  flower  in  January  and  February,  the 
third  in  March  and  April,  and  the  others  in  September  and  October, 
they  continue  a  long  time  in  bloom,  and  display  flowers  of  a  curious 
structure  and  delicately  beautiful.  The  pots  containing  these  roots 
must  be  ke^tf  during  the  summer  months,  where  they  will  not  be 
mueh  exposed  to  the  sun,  and  in  that  time  should  have  but  little 
water,  as  their  roots  are,  generally,  then  in  an  inactive  state,  and 
would  soon  rot  by  too  much  moisture. 

All  the  sorts  may  be  propagated  by  seed,  which  should  be  sown 
soon  after  being  ripe,  or  early  in  spring,  and  covered  near  half  an 
inch  deep,  they  must  always  be  protected  from  frost  and  also  from 
the  summer  sun  ;  the  September  following,  you  are  to  lay  over  the 
roots,  not  covering  the  leaves,  half  an  inch  or  better  of  good  loose 
sandy  earth,  and  during  the  following  winter  arid  ensuing  summer, 
protect  them  as  before.  Any  time  in  the  summer  of 'the  second 
or  third  year,  that  the  leaves  are  decayed,  take  up  the  roots,  and 
replant  them  in  pots  of  fresh  earth,  covering  them  one  inch  deep  ; 
here  they  remain  till  they  flower,  which  will  generally  be  in  the 
fourth  and  fifth  years  after  sowing,  but  sometimes,  when  taken  good 
care  of,  and  treated  with  a  suitable  composition}  some  of  the  kinds 
will  flower  early  in  the  third  year  from  seed 

3  G 


410  THE  PLEASURE,  OR 


Pink*. 

Your  superb  pinks,  during  the  time  of  bloom,  should  be  defended 
from  the  sun  by  an  awning  of  some  kind,  and  the  soil  ought  to  be 
kept  regularly  moist  by  soft  water,  administered  between  the  plants, 
carefully  avoiding  to  wet  the  blossoms. 

The  most  approved  method  of  propagating  pinks,'  is  by  piping 
them  as  directed  for  carnations  ;  they  seldom  fail  to  strike  sufficient 
root,  in  two  or  three  weeks  :  when  well  rooted,  they  may  be 
transplanted  into  an  open  part  of  the  garden,  on  a  bed  of  common 
garden  mould,  fresh  dug  up,  where  it  will  in  a  few  weeks,  be  easily 
discernible,  which  are  the  most  proper  to  place  on  the  best  bed  for 
bloom.  The  time  to  pipe  pinks  is  immediately  previous  to,  or 
during  the  bloom,  or  indeed,  as  soon  as  the  new  shoots  are  grown 
of  a  sufficient  length  for  that  purpose.  They  may  also,  be  propa* 
gated  by  slips,  taken  off  now,  or  in  the  spring  or  autumB. 

New  sorts  of  pinks  are  produced  from  seed,  but  this  should  be 
gathered  from  such  as  have  superior  properties. 

A  Description  of  the  Profiertie*  of  a  fine  Double  PINK, 

The  stem  should  be  strong  and  erect,  and  not  less  than  twelve 
inches  high.  The  calyx  rather  smaller  and  shorter,  but  nearly  si- 
milar in  form  and  proportion  to  that  of  a  carnation,  as  well  as  the 
formation  of  the  flower,  which  should  not  be  less  than  two  inches 
and  a  half  in  diameter. 

The  petals  should  be  numerous,  large,  broad,  and  substantial,  and 
have  very  finely  fringed  or  serrated  edges,  free  from  large  coarse 
deep  notches  or  indentures  ;  in  short,  they  approach  nearest  to  per- 
fection, when  the  fringe  on  the  edge  is  so  tine,  as  to  be  scarcely 
discernible  :  but  it  would  be  a  very  desirable  object,  to  obtain  them 
perfectly  rose-leaved,  that  is,  without  any  fringe  at  all. 

The  broadest  part  of  the  lamina,  or  broad  end  of  the  petals, 
should  be  perfectly  white  and  distinct  from  the  eye,  unless  it  be  or- 
namented by  a  continuation  of  the  colour  of  the  eye  round  it,*  bold, 
clean,  and  distinct,  leaving  a  considerable  portion  of  white  in  the 
centre,  perfectly  free  from  any  tinge  or  spot. 

The  eye  should  consist  of  a  bright,  or  dark  rich  crimson,  or  pur- 
ple, resembling  velvet :  but  the  nearer  it  approaches  to  black,  the 
more  it  is  esteemed  ;  its  proportion  should  be  about  equal  to  that 
of  the  white,  that  it  may  neither  appear  too  large  nor  too  small. 

Carnations. 

The  calyx  of  many  sorts  of  carnations,  contains  a  great  number 
of  petals,  which,  as  they  increase  in  bulk,  will  distend  and  burst  it, 
if  not  timely  prevented:  this  will  generally  happen  a  few  dayspre- 

*  When  the  corolla  consists  of  petals  of  this  description,  it  is  denominated 
a  Laced  Pink. 


FLOWER-GARDEN.  411 

vious  to  the  proper  time  of  the  blossoms  opening,  and  will,  if  ne- 
glected, by  letting  out  the  petals  on  one  side,  and  thereby  producing 
a  loose  irregular  appearance,  totally  destroy  that  compact,  grace- 
ful circular  form,  which  a  perfect  flower  ought  to  possess,  and  which 
is  one  of  its  greatest  ornaments  :  but  this  disagreeable  effect  may 
be  easily  avoided,  by  fastening  a  small  narrow  slip  of  bladder  round 
the  middle  of  the  pod,  where  it  is  most  swelled,  and  appears  to  have 
the  greatest  inclination  to  burst.  The  slip  of  bladder  should  be 
rather  longer  than  is  required  to  go  once  round,  so  that  one  end  of 
it  may  lay  over  the  other  a  little,  which  by  the  application  of  some 
strong  gum  water,  will  adhere  firmly  together,  and  answer  the 
purpose  completely.  Small  slips  of  wet  bass  may  be  substituted 
for  those  of  bladder,  and  being  tied  with  a  single  knot  round  the 
same  part  of  the  calyx,  will  answer  the  purpose. 

Others,  place  upon  the  calyx,  thin  pieces  of  card  cut  circular,  of 
a  proper  size  to  suit  the  blossom,  with  a  hole  in  the  centre,  adapted 
to  the  size  of  the  pod,  and  cut  quite  through,  from  thence  to  the 
p  eriphery,  in  order  to  admit  the  stem,  after  which,  to  draw  them 
up  round  the  calyx:  these  are  to  be  placed  close  to  the  guard 
leaves,  or  outside  petals,  to  support  them  horizontally  ;  and  will, 
when  extended  just  as  far  as  the  extreme  points  of  the  petals,  give 
the  flower  a  neat  and  pleasing  appearance;  but  these  are  apt  to 
warp,  when  long  exposed  to  the  weather,  especially  after  being  wet, 
and  must,  in  such  cases,  be  either  taken  off  entirely  or  replaced 
•with  new  ones,  as  they  will  no  longer  answer  the  intended  pur- 
pose. 

Either  of  the  above  methods  may,  and  should,  be  resorted  to,  in 
order  to  have  the  fine  large  bursting  kinds  of  carnations  and  pinks, 
to  blow  to  the  greatest  advantage. 

When  the  major  part  of  your  elegant  carnations  are  in  bloom, 
an  awning  should  be  placed  over  the  whole,  so  as  to  be  drawn  up 
or  let  down  by  means  of  pullies.  The  same  frame  that  was  used 
for  tulips  or  hyacinths,  would  answer  this  purpose  extremely  well. 

In  order  that  the  flowers  should  appear  to  the  greatest  advantage, 
it  is  necessary  that  the  pots  should  stand  upon  a  stage  erected 
theatre-like  ;  and  it  would  be  an  additional  advantage,  to  have  the 
flowers  suspended  from  the  sticks,  placed  in  the  pots  for  their  sup- 
port, by  small  pieces  of  fine  elastic  wire,  of  unequal  lengths,  to 
support  them  in  a  natural,  easy,  and  graceful  manner,  neither  too 
near  together  nor  remote  from  each  other;  one  end  of  the  wire, 
should  be  introduced  into  the  stick  by  means  of  a  small  awl,  and 
there  fixed  sufficiently  tight,  to  prevent  its  being  drawn  out  by 
the  weight  of  the  flower ;  the  other  end  of  the  wire  should  be  form- 
ed into  a  small  ring,  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  to  in- 
close the  stem  below  the  calyx  ;  this  ring  should  be  a  little  open 
on  one  side  to  admit  the  stem  freely  without  bruising  it,  which 
would  materially  injure  the  bloom. 

The  pots  must  be  kept  regularly  and  constantly  watered  during 
the  bloom,  and  no  favourable  opportunity  should  be  neglected,  to 
allow  them  the  full  advantage  of  exposure  to  light  and  air ;  but  no 
rain  should  be  admitted  to  the  blossoms,  at  any  period  of  their 
bloom. 


412  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [JUNK. 

It  is  not  advisable  to  let  every  pod  blow,  because  it  would  ren- 
der each  blossom  smaller,  than  if  only  two  or  three  were  left  on  each 
plant :  it  is,  therefore,  proper  in  this  case,  to  cut  off  or  draw  out  the 
small  lateral  pods,  close  to  the  main  stem,  as  soon  as  they  appear, 
in  order  that  the  remainder  may  have  time  to  reap  due  benefit  by 
it;  but  those  sorts  that  have  remarkably  large  short  pods,  abound- 
ing with  petals,  (commonly  called  bursters)  should  be  suffered  to 
bloom  them  all,  or  the  greater  part,  although,  in  general,  three  or 
four  pods  are  as  many  as  ought  to  be  suffered  to  blow  on  one  plant. 

Modern  Florists  divide  the  carnations  into  four  classes. 

1 .  Flakes  ;  of  two  colours  only,  and  their  stripes  large,  going  quite 
through  the  leaves. 

2.  Bizards  ;  with  flowers  striped  or  variegated  with  three  or  four 
different  colours,  in  regular  spots  and  stripes. 

3.  Piquettt's  or  Piquetttes  ;  having  a  white  ground,  and  spotted  or 
pounced  with  scarlet,  red,  purple,  or  other  colours. 

4.  Painted  Ladies  ;  these  have  the  petals  of  a  red  or  purple  colour 
on  the  upper  side,  and  white  underneath. 

A  Description  of  the  Properties  of  a  fine    Variegated   Double 
CARNATION. 

The  stem  should  be  strong,  tall,  and  straight ;  not  less  than  thir- 
ty, nor  more  than  forty-five  inches  high.  The  flower  should  be  at 
least  three  inches  in  diameter,  and  the  petals  well  formed,  neither 
so  many  as  to  appear  crowded,  nor  so  few  as  to  appear  thin.  The 
lower  or  outer  circle  of  petals,  commonly  called  the  guard  leaves, 
should  be  particularly  substantial ;  they  should  rise  perpendicularly 
about  half  an  inch  above  the  calyx,  and  then  turn  off  gracefully  in 
a  horizontal  direction,  supporting  the  interior  petals  ;  which  should 
decrease  gradually  in  size,  as  they  approach  the  centre,  which 
should  be  well  filled  with  them.  All  the  petals  should  be  regularly 
disposed,  and  lie  over  each  other  in  such  a  manner,  as  that  their 
respective  and  united  beauties  may  meet  the  eye  altogether ;  they 
should  be  nearly  flat,  or,  at  most,  have  but  a  small  degree  of  in- 
flection at  the  broad  end  :  their  edges  should  be  perfectly  entire, 
(or  what  is  called  rose  leaved)  without  notch,  fringe,  or  indenture. 
The  calyx  should  be  at  least  an  inch  in  length,  sufficiently  strong 
at  the  top,  to  keep  the  base  of  the  petals  in  a  close  and  circular  body. 
The  colours  should  be  distinct,  and  the  stripes  regular,  narrowing 
gradually  to  the  claws  of  the  petal,  and  there  ending  in  a  fine  point. 
Almost  one  half  of  each  petal,  should  be  of  a  clear  white,  and  free 
from  spots. 

Bizards)  or  such  as  contain  two  or  more  colours,  upon  a  white 
ground,  are  esteemed  rather  preferable  to  Flakes,  which  have  but 
one,  especially  when  their  colours  are  remarkably  rich,  and  very 
regularly  distributed. 

Scarlet,  purple,  and  pink,  are  the  three  colours  most  predomi- 
nant in  the  carnation  ;  the  two  first  are  seldom  to  be  met  with  ia 
the  same  flower,  but  the  purple  and  pink  very  frequently. 


JUNE.]  FLOWER-GARDEN.  413 

/• 

When  the  scarlet  predominates,  and  is  united  with  a  paler  colour, 
or,  as  it  sometimes  happens,  with  a  very  deep  purple  upon  a  white 
ground,  it  constitutes  a  scarlet  JBizard,  of  which  there  are  many "... 
varieties,  some  richer  and  others  paler  in  their  colours,  as  is  the 
case  with  all  the  rest. 

Pink  Bi-zardS)  are  so  called  when  the  pink  abounds.  Purple  Bi~ 
zards,  when  the  purple  abounds.  Crimson  Bizards^  consist  of  a 
deep  purple  and  rich  pink. 

When  the  ipmkjtake  is  very  high  in  colour,  it  is  distinguished 
by  the  appellation  of  the  rosejiake;  but  there  are  some  so  nearly 
in  the  medium  between  pink  and  scarlet,  that  it  can  scarcely  be  de- 
fined to  which  class  they  belong. 

Propagating  Carnations  by  Laying  and  Piping. 

When  carnations,  Sec.  are  propagated  in  the  open  air,  by  their 
shoots  or  layers  connected  with  the  mother  plant,  the  operation  is 
called  laying ;  but  when  they  are  propagated  by  cuttings,  taken 
from  the  original  plant,  and  by  the  assistance  of  artificial  means, 
caused  to  strike  root  in  a  confined  air,  it  is  called  piping  them. 

The  operation  of  laying,  or  piping,  is  to  commence  as  soon  as  the 
plants  are  in  full  bloom ;  nevertheless,  those  who  are  particularly 
desirous  to  preserve  their  bloom  in  the  greatest  perfection,  may  de- 
fer it  till  the  flowers  are  on  the  decline  ;  but  others  anxious  to  have 
their  plants  strong  and  well  rooted  early  in  autumn,  with  a  view 
that  the  layers  may  be  better  prepared  to  endure  the  severities  of  the 
ensuing  winter,  begin  to  lay  at  the  commencement  of  the  bloom  ; 
at  which  time,  the  plants  being  full  of  juices  and  vigour,  the  layers 
are  the  better  nourished  and  supported,  and  soon  strike  root :  but 
it  must  be  allowed  that  the  bloom  is  considerably  impaired,  by  the 
wounds  inflicted  in  the  operation,  particularly  so,  when  performed 
in  an  early  stage  of  it ;  the  old  plants  seldom  survive,  unless  very 
strong  and  sound,  or  some  of  the  upper  young  shoots  be  left,  such 
as  are  too  short  to  be  laid  with  convenience,  these  will  encourage 
and  continue  the  circulation  of  the  juices  if  suffered  to  remain. 

Previous  to  entering  on  the  operation  of  laying,  you  must  be  pro- 
vided with  a  sufficient  number  of  wooden  or  other  pegs,  each  to  be 
about  five  or  six  inches  long,  and  formed  somewhat  like  the  figure 
7,  that  is,  with  a  short  hooked  end.  The  operator  should  likewise 
be  provided  with  a  table  on  which  to  place  the  pots,  for  the  greater 
convenience  in  the  examination,  dressing,  and  laying  of  the  shoots, 
also  with  a  sharp  pen-knife,  and  some  fresh  compost  earth. 

The  layer  may  be  supposed  to  have  four  or  five  joints,  more  or 
less  ;  the  lower  leaves  next  the  root,  are  all  to  be  cut-or  stripped  off 
close,  to  within  two  or  three  joints  of  the  extremity  of  the  layer, 
and  its  extreme  points  are  to  be  shortened  by  cutting  the  tops  off 
with  the  knife,  so  as  to  leave  them  only  an  inch  and  a  half,  or  two 
inches  in  length,  from  the  joint  whence  they  proceed. 

All  the  layers  in  the  pots  are  to  be  thus  treated  or  prepared  be- 
fore any  further  procedure  be  made ;  the  surface  of  the  earth  is 
then  to  be  cleared  of  what  have  fallen  on  it,  and  should  be  stirred  up 


414  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [JUNE. 

about  an  inch  deep  :  the  pot  is  then  to  be  filled  up  nearly  level,  with 
some  light  rich  compost  not  of  too  fine  a  grain. 

The  incision  immediately  follows  :  the  knife  should  have  a  small, 
thin,  and  very  sharp  blade ;  it  is  to  be  introduced  on  that  side  the 
layer  next  the  ground,  in  a  sloping  direction  upwards,  to  commence 
a  quarter  of  an  inch  below  the  second  or  third  clean  joint  from  the 
extremity,  and  continue  through  the  middle  of  that  joint,  and  half 
or  three  quarters  of  an  inch  above  it,  the  small  portion  left  under, 
and  connected  with  the  joint,  is  to  be  cut  off  horizontally,  quite 
close  to  the  bottom  of  the  joint,  but  not  into  it,  as  it  is  from  the  outer 
circle  of  the  bottom  of  the  joint  that  the  fibres  proceed,  consequent- 
ly, that  part  should  not  be  injured. 

After  the  incision  is  made,  which  should  be  through  the  middle 
of  the  joint,  8cc.  and  the  lower  part  dressed  as  before  directed,  the 
layer  is  to  be  gently  forced  down  to  the  earth,  with  great  care  to 
avoid  breaking  it  off,  or  even  cracking  it  at  the  joint,,  which  would 
prevent  a  due  communication  of  the  juices  of  the  old  plant,  so  ne- 
cessary for  the  support  of  the  layer,  till  it  has  formed  sufficient 
root  to  support  itself:  it  would  likewise  render  it  more  likely  to  de- 
cay on  the  application  of  water. 

The  layer  is  to  be  held  down  to  the  surface  of  the  earth,  by  one  of 
the  pegs  before  described,  which  is  to  be  forced  into  the  soil,  close 
behind  the  joint  where  the  incision  was  made,  observing  at  the  same 
time,  to  keep  the  slit  a  little  open  ;  and  it  is  to  be  observed  that  the 
joint  from  whence  the  fibres  are  expected  to  proceed,  should  be 
covered  about  an  inch  deep  with  good  compost  earth,  and  not  deeper ; 
for  the  influence  of  the  air  is  necessary  to  the  free  rooting  of  the 
layer.  The  remainder  of  the  stalk  of  the  layer  should  lay,  as  much 
as  possible,  upon  or  above  the  surface  of  the  pot ;  but  must  by  no 
means  be  covered  too  deep. 

Carnations,  and  pinks  growing  in  the  open  ground,  in  beds  or 
borders,  Sec.  may  be  propagated  by  laying  them  in  like  manner  as 
above  ;  or  either,  may  be  propagated  by  pipings  as  follows. 

Piping  Carnations  and  Pinks. 

For  this  purpose,  it  is  necessary  to  form  a  bed  of  fine  light  mould, 
or  old  compost  earth,  which  should  be  moderately  moistened  and 
rendered  rather  compact  than  otherwise  ;  then  take  a  hand  or  bell- 
glass,  and  with  it  mark  its  dimensions  on  the  surface  of  the  soil,  in 
order  to  know  where  to  stick  in  the  pipings,  so  as  to  lose  no  room, 
or  endanger  their  being  disturbed  when  the  glass  is  placed  over 
them. 

The  cuttings  intended  to  be  piped  are  to  have  two  complete 
joints,  that  is  to  say,  they  are  to  be  cut  ojf  horizontally,  close  under 
the  second  joint :  the  extremities,  or  points  of  the  leaves,  are  like- 
wise to  be  shortened,  as  for  laying,  which  will  leave  the  whole  length 
of  the  piping  about  two  inches :  as  soon  as  thus  prepared,  they  may 
be  thrown  into  a  bason  of  soft  water  for  a  few  minutes,  to  plump. 
They  are  then  to  be  taken  out  of  the  bason  singly,  and  forced  into 
the  earth  in  their  wet  state,  not  more  than  an  inch  deep,  and  about 
two  inches  asunder  every  way. 


JUNE.]  FLOWER-GARDEN.  415 

When  a  sufficient  number  for  the  glass  are  thus  placed  regularly, 
they  are  to  be  very  gently  watered,  in  order  that  the  earth  may  ad- 
here more  closely  to  them  and  thereby  keep  out  the  air,  after  this 
watering  they  are  to  remain  open,  but  not  exposed  to  the  sun,  till 
their  leaves  become  perfectly  dry,  after  which  the  glass  is  to  be 
placed  over  them  carefully,  in  the  same  mark  that  was  made  by  it 
on  the  surface  of  the  soil,  before  the  insertion  of  the  pipings. 

The  bottom  edges  of  the  glass,  or  glasses,  are  to  be  forced  a  little 
into  the  earth,  to  keep  out  the  influence  of  the  external  air  and  to 
preserve  a  moist  atmosphere  about  the  pipings,  till  their  young  ra- 
dicles are  established  and  begin  to  act ;  for  if  fully  exposed  to  the, 
air  before  that  period,  it  would  carry  off"  from  the  leaves,  &c.  a 
greater  portion  of  juices  than  the  young  plants  could,  for  the  pre- 
sent, extract  from  the  earth,  and  consequently  they  must  perish 
thereby.  This  is  the  particular  reason,  why  cuttings  of  every  kind> 
succeed  better  when  thus  treated,  than  when  left  exposed  to  the  in- 
fluence of  the  weather. 

The  pipings  should  have  a  little  of  the  morning  sun,  but  must  be 
shaded  from  it  when  the  heat  increases  ;  this  will  easily  be  effected 
by  placing  mats  upon  a  slight  frame  of  hoops  or  laths,  erected  over 
the  bed,  about  two  feet  above  it. 

The  glasses  should  be  occasionally  taken  off,  for  half  an  hour  at 
a  time,  early  in  the  morning,  or  late  in  the  afternoon  to  admit  fresh 
air ;  if  this  material  point  is  neglected,  the  consequence  will  be  a 
green  mossy  appearance  on  the  surface  of  the  earth,  and  an  univer- 
sal mouldiness  amongst  the  plants,  which  will  destroy  them. 

When  the  fibres  are  formed,  which  the  additional  verdure  and 
growth  of  the  plants  will  demonstrate,  the  glasses  should  be  placed 
over  them  very  lightly,  in  order  that  more  air  may  be  admitted  ;  and 
when  they  become  tolerably  well  rooted,  the  glasses  being  no  longer 
necessary,  should  be  entirely  taken  away  ;  continue  to  water  them 
frequently,  but  moderately,  as  they  progress  in  growth,  and  for 
their  further  treatment,  see  the  Flower-Garden,  for  next  month. 

Some  sorts  of  carnations  succeed  much  better  by  piping  than 
laying,  and  make  healthier  plants  :  it  requires  attention  and  ex- 
perience to  distinguish  such  sorts  from  the  rest,  which  must  depend 
wholly  on  the  discernment  of  the  cultivator. 

Planting  Carnation  and  Pink  Seedlings. 

The  Carnation  and  pink  seedlings  sown  early  in  spring,  may  now 
be  planted  into  nursery  beds,  in  rows,  eight  or  nine  inches  asunder, 
and  plant  from  plant  five  or  six  inches,  there  to  remain  till  Septem- 
ber or  October,  when  they  are  to  be  planted  at  greater  distances  to 
remain  for  flowering. 

Persons  who  are  fond  of  carnations  and  pinks,  ought  to  sow  some 
seed  of  each  sort  every  year,  for  it  is  by  this  means,  that  all  the 
fine  new  varieties,  of  these  charming  flowers,  are  obtained. 

When  new  sorts  are  procured  in  this  way,  they  are  to  be  increas- 
ed by  layers  or  pipings,  and  will  generally  keep  to  their  original 


416  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [JUNE. 

colours  ;  but  when  propagated  by  seed,  very  few  will  be  found  to 
possess  the  same  colours  and  properties  as  the  mother  plant. 

Double  Sweet  William. 

The  fine  kinds  of  double  sweet  william  may  now  be  propagated, 
either  by  slips  or  by  laying  the  young  shoots,  as  directed  for  car- 
nations ;  in  either  way,  they  will  root  freely,  but  if  the  slips  are 
planted,  they  will  require  shade  as  well  as  occasional  waterings,  for 
ten  or  twelve  days  after. 

Transplanting  Annuals. 

You  may  now  transplant  into  the  borders  and  other  places  where 
wanted,  all  the  different  kinds  of  annual  flowers,  that  succeed  in  that 
way,  and  that  stand  too  close  where  they  had  been  sown ;  such  as 
French  and  African  Marigolds,  China  Asters,  Cock's-combs,  Chry- 
santhemums, China  Pinks,  China  Hollyhocks,  Balsams,  Amaran- 
thuses  of  various  sorts,  Gomphrena  globosa,  and  many  other  kinds, 
observing  to  do  this  in  moist  or  cloudy  weather,  if  possible,  and  to 
give  them  shade  and  frequent  refreshments  of  water,  till  newly 
rooted  :  let  them  be  taken  up  and  transplanted,  with  as  much  earth 
as  possible  about  their  roots,  whether  into  flower-pots  or  else- 
where. 

Thinning  and  Supporting  Flowering  Plants^  &"c. 

Wherever  you  have  sown  annual  flower  seeds  in  patches,  See.  and 
that  they  have  grown  too  thick,  you  must  thin  them  to  proper  dis- 
tances according  to  their  respective  habits  of  growth,  so  as  to  allow 
them  full  liberty  to  attain  the  utmost  perfection. 

Place  sticks  for  the  support  of  the  various  kinds,  that  require  it, 
whether  annual,  perennial,  biennial,  or  climbing  plants,  as  directed 
in  page  390,  observing  the  method  there  recommended. 

Cut  off,  close  to  the  ground,  the  decaying  flower-stems  of  such 
perennial  plants  as  are  past  flowering,  and  clear  the  roots  from 
dead  leaves  ;  but  where  intended  to  s.ave  seed  from  any  of  the  kinds, 
leave  for  that  purpose  some  of  the  principal  stems. 

Trim,  dress,  and  tie  up,  any  disorderly  growing  plants,  pick  off 
all  withered  leaves,  and  cut  out  decayed  parts. 

Propagating  Fibrous-rooted  Plants  by  Cuttings. 

You  may  still  continue  to  propagate  the  double  scarlet-lychnis, 
double-rocket,  lychnideas  or  phloxes,  with  many  other  like  kinds, 
by  cuttings  of  the  Bower-stalks,  as  directed  for  the  scarlet-lychnis, 
in  page  389. 

Transplanting  Seedling  Perennials  and  Biennials. 

Transplant  from  the  seed-beds  the  early  sown  perennial  and  bien- 
nial seedling  flower  plants,  that  are  grown  to  a  sufficient  size ;  such 


JUNE.]  FLOWER-GARDEN, 

as  sweet-williams,  sweet  scabious,  Canterbury-bells,  rose-campion 
and  monk's-hood ;  soapwort,  valerian,  Chinese  ixia,  Asclepiases, 
Asters  and  Rhexias  ;  Coreopsis,  Hibiscuses,  Dracocephalums,  &c. 
&c.  &c. 

Prepare  for  these,  three  or  four  feet  wide  beds,  of  good  earth, 
and  plant  them  by  line,  at  six  inches  distance  every  way,  water  them 
immediately,  and  if  the  weather  be  very  dry,  give  occasional  shade 
and  waterings,  till  they  have  taken  root  and  begin  to  grow.  The 
plants  are  to  remain  in  these  beds  until  autumn  or  spring,  and 
are  then  to  be  planted  out  finally  into  the  beds  or  borders,  where 
they  are  intended  to  flower  the  ensuing  year. 

Stock -Gill/Jlowers  and   Wall-fiGivers. 

The  stock-gilliflowers  and  wall-flowers  are  not  sufficiently  hardy, 
to  bear  the  winter  frosts  of  the  middle  or  eastern  states ;  therefore, 
it  will  be  necessary  to  plant  the  seedlings  of  these  kinds  in  some 
convenient  place,  where  a  garden  frame  may  be  placed  over  them 
in  winter,  on  which  to  lay  boards  or  any  slight  covering  for  their 
protection,  as  directed  in  November.  Or  you  may  plant  them  now 
in  the  open  borders  to  grow  till  September,  then  to  be  taken  up 
and  potted,  and  in  November  they  are  to  be  removed  into  their 
winter  quarters  :  or,  they  may,  immediately,  be  planted  into  small 
pots,  which  are  to  be  plunged  in  some  shady  border,  where  you  can 
give  them  water  during  the  season,  according  to  their  necessities- 

Trim  Sox  Edgings* 

Take  advantage  of  the  first  moist  weather  that  happens  after  the 
middle  of  this  month,  in  which  to  clip  and  dress  your  box  edgings  ; 
for  if  done  in  dry  or  parching  weather,  they  are  apt  to  turn  foxy, 
and,  consequently,  loose  much  of  their  beauty. 

The  edgings  should  be  cut  very  neat,  even  at  top  and  both  sides, 
and  ought  not  to  be  suffered  to  grow  higher  than  two  or  three  inches, 
nor  broader  than  two.  When  the  edgings  of  box  are  kept  near 
that  size,  they  look  extremely  neat,  but  if  permitted  to  grow  to  the 
height  of  four,  five,  or  six  inches,  and  perhaps  near  as  much  in 
breadth,  they  then  assume  a  clumsy  and  heavy  appearance,  and  de- 
prive the  beds  and  borders  of  that  apparent  roundness,  so  necessary 
to  set  them  off  to  advantage. 

Dressing  the  I'loiver-Borders  and  Shrubberies,  &c. 

The  flower-borders,  beds,  shrubbery-clumps,  and  all  other  orna- 
mental compartments,  must  now  be  kept  remarkably  clean  and  neat ; 
and  no  weeds  suffered  to  appear,  or  at  least  to  grow  to  any  conside- 
rable size,  in  any  of  those  places.  The  weeds  must  be  extermi- 
nated immediately  on  their  appearance,  either  by  hoe  or  hand,  occa- 
sionally, and  this  should  be  performed  in  a  dry  day  ;  if  with  the  hoe, 
cutting  them  up  within  the  ground,  and  raking  them  off  imme- 
diately, 


418  THE  GREEN-HOUSE.  J>NIT.. 

Examine  the  evergreens  and  flowering  shrubs,  and  where  any 
have  made  disorderly  shoots,  let  such  be  cut  clean  out,  or  shorten- 
ed, as  you  may  deem  expedient;  in  order  to  preserve  the  heads  in. 
due  form  and  of  an  elegant  appearance. 

Watering. 

Occasional  waterings  must  be  given  to  all  your  late  planted 
shrubs  and  flowers,  and  particularly,  to  the  annual,  perennial,  and 
biennial  flower  plants,  newly  planted  out  into  nursery  beds, 

Your  entire  stock  of  plants,  in  pots  and  boxes,  seedlings  and 
others,  must  be  watered  as  often  as  the  earth  about  them  becomes 
dry  and  unfriendly  to  ^vegetation  ;  and  your  carnation  and  other 
layers,  must  be  duly  attended  to  in  this  respect,  to  preserve  the 
earth  about  them,  moderately  moist,  and  only  so. 

For  some  useful  observations,  in  respect  to  watering,  see  page 
38 1, 

Grass  and  Gravel   Walks. 

The  grass  and  gravel-walks,  Sec.  must  be  treated  constantly  dur- 
ing the  summer  and  autumn,  as  directed  in  page  391. 


THE  GREEN-HOUSE. 

General  care  of  the  Green-House  Plants. 

THE  plants  being  now  out  and  fully  exposed  to  the  air,  will: 
require  a  constant  supply  of  water  ;  it  is  impossible  to  say  how  of- 
ten it  ought  to  be  administered,  or  how  much  should  be  given  at  a 
time,  as  the  state  of  weather,  the  different  constitutions  and  habits 
of  the  plants,  and  also  the  size  of  the  pots  or  tubs  as  well  as  of  the 
plants  themselves,  make  a  material  difference  in  that  respect.  The 
only  true  guide  is  the  state  of  the  earth  in  the  pots  or  tubs,  which 
should  always  be  kept  moist  and  in  a  proper  condition  to  promote 
and  encourage  vegetation.  In  very  hot  weather,  the  pkuits  that  are 
in  small  pots,  will  require  some  water,  both  morning  and  evening, 
at  other  times,  once  a  day  will  be  sufficient,  but  as  the  plants  have 
no  other  nourishment  but  what  they  extract  from  the  earth  within 
the  pots  or  tubs,  it  ought  to  be  a  general  rule  to  keep  it  constantly 
moist,  but  not  too  wet. 

The  best  water  for  this  purpose  is  such  as  is  taken  from  rivers  or 
ponds,  where  it  is  fully  exposed  to  the  sun  and  air ;  so  that  if  you  have 
no  other  than  spring  or  well  water,  it  should  always  be  exposed,  in 
cisterns,  &c.  to  the  sun  and  air,  at  least  twenty-four  hours  before  it 
is  used* 


4JUHK.]  THE  GREEN-HOUSE. 

You  never  should  put  sheep-dung,  or  any  other,  in  the  water,  as 
is  practised  by  many  persons  to  the  great  injury  of  their  plants  ;  for 
these  strongly  impregnated  waters,  instead  of  affording  nourish- 
ment) cause  the  leaves  to  change  to  a  pale  sickly  colour,  and  ulti- 
mately bring  on  a  general  debility  :  they  operate  like  hot  liquors 
on  human  bodies,  which  at  first  taking,  seem  to  add  new  vigour, 
yet,  after  some  time,  leave  the  body  weaker  than  before. 

If  mowings  of  short  grass,  or  some  moss,  be  spread  on  the  surface 
•earth,  of  the  large  tubs  or  pots  of  oranges,  lemons,  Sec.  it  will  pre- 
serve the  moisture,  and  defend  the  upper  roots  from  the  .sun  and 
drying  air. 

Such  of  the  pots,  with  plants,  as  are  plunged  in  the  earth,  must  be 
turned  fully  round  in  their  seats,  once  a  week,  to  break  off  such 
fibres  as  extend  through  the  holes  at  bottom,  into  the  surrounding 
earth  ;  for  the  reasons  of  doing  this,  see  pages  393  and  395. 

Some  people  thin,  what  they  consider,  the  superabundant  blossoms 
of  oranges  and  lemons  ;  this  1  do  not  approve  of,  as  ii  is  probable  that 
such  as  would  set  the  best  fruit,  might  be  plucked  off  as  well  as  any 
other  ;  therefore,  it  will  be  the  better  way,  to  suffer  the  whole  bloom, 
to  remain,  and  if  too  abundant  a  crop  of  fruit  should  happen  to  set, 
to  thin  them  soon  after,  to  a  sufficient  number.  However,  where 
some  are  wanted  for  making  orange-flower  water,  the  smallest 
•may  be  picked  off,  where  they  appear  in  clusters,  leaving  the 
largest  and  most  promising.  Any  declining  myrtles  or  other  hard- 
wooded  plants,  may  be  greatly  restored  to  strength  and  vigour,  by 
turning  them  out  of  their  pots,  earth  and  all,  and  placing  the  balls  in 
baskets  made  of  peeled  or  dryed  willows,  and  plunging  these  in  the 
open  borders  till  September ;  when,  they  are  to  be  taken  up,  the 
extending  roots  trimmed  off,  the  baskets  cut  away,  and  the  plants 
with  the  entire  balls  replanted  in  suitable  sized  pots  or  tubs,  after 
which,  they  are  to  be  placed  in  the  shade  till  housed. 

Propagating  the  Plants. 

Myrtles  may  be  propagated  abundantly  towards  the  middle  or 
latter  end  of  the  month,  -by  slips  or  cuttings  of  the  present 
year's  wood,  as  may  also,  Hydrangeas,  Fuschias,  China  and  Ota- 
heite  roses;  Coronillas,  Bupthalmum  fruticosum,  Geraniums,  Jas- 
mines, Heliotropiums,  and  almost  every  other  kind  of  shrubby  or 
under  shrubby  plants ;  observing  when  dressed  and  the  under 
leaves  taken  off,  to  plant  them,  three,  four,  or  five  inches  deep,  ac- 
cording to  their  respective  lengths,  in  wide  garden  pans  or  pots 
filled  with  light  rich  earth,  or  into  beds  of  similar  earth,  where 
they  can  have  occasional  shade  and  waterings  till  rooted.  However, 
the  covering  of  them  with  bell-glasses,  will  greatly  facilitate  their 
rooting  and  promote  their  growth,  which,  for  the  reasons  assigned 
in  page  415,  is  by  far  the  most  eligible  method,  but  particularly 
for  woody  plants,  and  such  others  as  are  not  of  the  succulent  tribe. 

This  is  also  a  very  proper  time  to  propagate  succulent  plants,  of 
most  .kinds,  which  are  to  be  treated  as  directed  in  page  394,  under 
the  article,  propagating  the  plants. 


420  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  [JUNE. 

Transplanting  Seedling  Exotics. 

You  should  now  transplant,  separately,  into  small  pots,  any  ad- 
vanced young  seedling  exotics,  which  were  raised  this  year  from 
seed  ;  giving  them  shade  and  occasional  waterings,  till  newly 
Booted. 

Budding, 

Any  time  this  month  you  may  bud  oranges,  leraons,  citrons  and 
shaddocks  ;  the  buds  are  to  be  taken,  not  from  the  shoots  made 
this  season,  as  they  are  not  yet  sufficiently  ripe,  but  from  those  pro- 
duced last  autumn,  which  will  now  take  freely,  and  produce  hand- 
some shoots  in  the  present  year. 

In  about  three  weeks  or  a  month,  the  buds  will  be  taken,  when 
you  are  to  untie  the  bandages,  and  soon  after,  head  down  the  stocks 
of  such  as.  are  plump,  fresh,  and  well  united,  to  within  four  inches 
of  the  buds,  cutting  off  all  side  branches  and  suffering  no  other 
buds  to  grow  but  the  inserted  ones :  as  the  shoots  advance  tie 
them  to  the  spurs  left  for  that  purpose,  to  prevent  their  being  bro- 
ken off  by  winds,  or  displaced  by  any  other  accidents. 

Budding,  however,  should  not  at  this  time  be  generally  practised; 
for  the  buds  now  inserted  will  start  in  a  few  weeks,  and  the  shoots 
produced  thereby,  will  not  be  as  ripe,  nor,  consequently,  in  as  good 
condition  to  stand  the  winter,  as  those  produced  in  the  early  part  of 
the  season,  from  the  buds  inserted  in  August.  For  the  method  of 
budding,  see  the  Nursery  in  July. 

Cafie  and  other  Green-House  Bulbs. 

The  green-house  bulbs,  and  tuberous-rooted  plants,  natives  of  the 
Cape  of  Good  Hope,  Sec.  whose  leaves  are  now  decayed,  such  as 
Gladioluses,  Ixias,  Watsonias,  Antholizas,  Ornithogalums,  Moreas, 
&c.  may  be  taken  up  and  immediately  transplanted,  or  they  may  be 
kept  up  till  September,  and  if  carefully  wrapped  in  dry  moss,  it  will 
tend  greatly  to  their  preservation  ;  but  there  are  some  kinds  wbich 
will  require  to  be  planted  into  pots  of  fresh  earth  immediately,  such 
as  Cyclamens,  &c.  and  all  the  autumnal  flowering  bulbs,  such  as 
the  Guernsey  and  Belladonna  Amaryllises,  must  not  be  kept 
longer  out  of  the  ground  than  the  end  of  next  month,  as  that  would 
greatly  weaken  their  bloom. 


THE  HOTJIOUSE. 

THE  more  tender  kinds  of  exotics,  which  could  not,  with 
safety,  be  brought  out  into  the  open  air  the  latter  end  of  last  month, 
aliould  now  be  placed  where  intended  to  remain  during  summer. 


JULY.]  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  421 

Their  subsequent  treatment  whilst  out,  being  exactly  similar  to 
that  directed  for  the  green-house  plants,  in  this,  and  the  preceding 
month,  induces  me,  in  order  to  avoid  repetitions,  to  refer  you  to 
those  articles.  But  let  it  be  observed,  that  although  most  of  the 
shrubby  kinds,  will  require  abundance  of  water  at  this  season,  yet, 
that  article,  must  be  administered  with  rather  a  sparing  hand,  to  the 
succulent  tribe. 

Pine  Afifilcs. 

The  Pine-Apple  plants  must  now  have  abundance  of  air,  night  and 
day,  by  keeping  all  the  upright  front  lights  slided  open,  and  also  the 
roof-lights,  except  during  heavy  rains,  when  the  roof-lights  must  be 
kept  close  to  preserve  the  bark-pit  from  too  much  wet.  The  plants 
will,  likewise,  require  frequent  refreshments  of  water,  but  this  should 
not  be  given  too  copiously  at  one  time. 

Some  of  the  most  forward  Pine-apples  will,  about  the  end  of  the 
month,  be  advancing  towards  maturity  ;  be  careful  at  that  time  to 
give  such  plants  but  little  water,  for  too  much  would  spoil  the  fla- 
vour of  the  fruit. 

The  succession  Pines  must,  likewise,  have  abundance  of  air,  and 
a  sufficiency  of  water,  to  keep  them  in  a  regular  and  constant  state 
of  vegetation. 

Propagating  Hot-house  Plants. 

Continue  to  propagate  the  various  kinds  of  plants,  belonging  to 
this  department,  by  cuttings,  layers,  offsets,  suckers  and  seeds,  as 
directed  in  the  preceding  months. 

All  the  succulent  tribe  may  now  be  easily  propagated  by  suckers, 
slips,  cuttings,  &c.  laying  them  when  taken  off  in  a  shady  place, 
for  a  week  or  ten  days,  more  or  less,  according  to  the  degree  of 
succulency,  before  they  are  planted. 


JULY. 

WORK  TO  BE  DONE  IN  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN. 

CLEAN  and  prepare  the  ground,  where  your  early  crops  of 
cauliflowers  and  cabbages  grew,  and  also,  any  other  vacant  spots, 
in  order  to  receive  such  seeds  and  plants,  as  are  proper  to  supply 
the  table  with  good  vegetable  productions  in  autumn  and  winter. 

Melons  and-  Cucumbers^  &c. 

. 

Your  crops  of  melons  and  cucumbers,  should  now  be  kept  very 
clean  and  free  from  weeds,  the  spaces  between  the  hills  must  be 


422  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  [JULY, 

carefully  hoed,  in  dry  weather,  without  injuring  the  vines ;  also, 
hoe  and  weed  the  crops  of  water-melons,  squashes,  and  pump- 
kins, &c.  for  unless  they  are  kept  perfectly  clean,  good  fruit  and 
numerous  productions,  cannot  be  expected. 

Sowing  Melons  for  Mangoes. 

The  first  week  of  this  month  is  a  very  proper  time,  in  the  middle 
states,  to  sow  a  principal  crop  of  melons  for  mangoes  ;  they  are  to 
be  sown  and  managed  as  directed  in  pages  360  and  396.  The  long, 
smooth,  musk  melon,  is  generally  sown  for  that  purpose. 

Sowing  Cucumbers  for  Pickling •,  fcfc. 

Sow  in  the  first  week  or  ten  days  of  this  month,  a  general  crop 
of  cucumbers  for  pickling,  and  treat  them  in  every  respect,  as  di- 
rected for  like  crops  in  May  and  June. 

The  long  green  Turkey  cucumber  is  preferred  by  many  for  this 
purpose,  but  it  is  not  very  prolific  ;  the  long,  and  short  prickly,  and 
particularly  the  green  cluster  cucumber,  being  great  bearers,  will 
be  more  profitable,  and,  are  equally  good  for  use.  Some  of  the  early 
frame,  or  short  prickly  kinds,  may  be  sown,  in  the  middle  or  any 
time  in  the  month,  for  a  late  crop. 

Planting  Cabbages,  Savoys,  Borecole,  &c. 

Talte  advantage  of  moist  or  cloudy  •weather,  and  plant  out  your 
late  crops  of  cabbages,  savoys,  borecole,  broccoli,  turnep-cabbage, 
Brussels'  sprouts,  Jerusalem  kale,  and  any  other  of  the  cabbage 
tribe,  that  you  wish  to  cultivate  :  let  them  be  planted  as  directed  in 
the  former  months,  and,  immediately,  watered,  which  must  be  fre- 
quently repeated  till  they  are  newly  rooted,  and  in  a  free  growing 
state.  The  laying  of  a  fresh  cabbage  leaf  over  each  plant  when 
set,  will  afford  protection  from  the  sun,  for  a  few  days,  which  will 
be  of  considerable  service.  Some  seed  of  the  green  curled  bore- 
cole may  now  be  sown  for  a  late  crop. 

Transplanting  and  'Sowing  Endive. 

Plant  out  to  supply  the  table  early  in  autumn,  a  sufficient  quantity 
of  the  best  and  stoutest  endive  ;  it  requires  a  good,  strong,  and  (at 
this  season)  moist  ground ;  if  well  dunged,  it  will  be  an  additional 
advantage.  Put  in  the  plants  a  foot  asunder  every  way,  and  water 
them  immediately,  which  repeat  every  evening  till  the  plants  have 
taken  root. 

Sow  endive  seed,  in  an  open,  cool,  and  moist  situation,  two  or 
three  times  this  month,  for  the  greater  certainty  of  procuring  a  re- 
gular supply  ;  let  it  be  of  the  curled  kind,  and  sown  tolerably  thin, 
for  when  the  plants  grow  too  close  in  the  seed-beds,  they  are  more 
subject  to  start  soon  to  seed,  than  if  they  had  been  raised  at  mode- 


JULY.]  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  423; 

rate  distances.  Give  occasional  waterings  to  the  seed-beds,  both 
before  and  after  the  plants  appear,  which  will  greatly  encourage 
their  free  growth. 

Kidney -Beans. 

You  may  plant  kidney-beans,  of  the  dwarf  kinds,  any  time  this 
month;  or,  in  order  to. have  a  regular  succession,  some  may  be 
planted  in  the  beginning,  middle,  and  end  thereof.  The  running 
kinds  will  also  succeed  well,  if  planted  in  the  early  part  of  the  month. 
It  will,  however,  be  necessary  at  this  time,  to  water  the  drills,  or  lay 
the  beans  to  soak  in  river  or  pond  water,  about  five  or  six  hours3 
previous  to  planting,  or  if  both  be  done,  k  will  be  still  better. 

Cauliflowers. 

The  late  sown  cauliflowers,  intended  for  winter  use,  may  now  be 
planted  out  finally,  if  not  done  before. 

In  planting  this  crop,  it  would  be  of  essential  advantage  to  take 
opportunity  of  showery  or  moist  weather,  if  such  should  happen  in. 
proper  time  ;  plant  them  in  rows,  two  feet  and  a  half  asunder ;  and 
the  same  distance  in  the  row  ;  let  them  be  directly  watered,  and 
afterwards  at  times,  till  they  have  taken  good  root. 

Smalt    Sallading. 

Continue  to  sow  crops  of  small  sallading  every  eight  or  ten  days,, 
as  directed  in  the  former  months ;  but  these  must  now  be  sown  on 
shady  borders,  or  else  be  shaded  with  mats,  occasionally,  from  the 
mid-day  sun,  and  frequently  watered,  both  before  and  after  the 
plants  appear  above  ground. 

Carrots. 

Towards  the  end  of  this  month  you  may  sow  some  carrot  seedy 
to  raise  young  roots  for  the  table  in  autumn  and  winter.  Chose  an 
open  situation  and  light  ground,  and  let  the  seed  be  sown,  imme- 
diately, while  the  earth  is  fresh  after  being  dug.  When  the  plants- 
are  up,  an  inch  or  two,  thin  them  to  five  or  six  inches  every  way. 

Celery. 

This  is  a  proper  time  to  plant  out  into  trenches  a  full  crop  of 
celery,  for  autumn  and  winter  use  ;  let  this  be  performed,  in  every 
respect,  as  directed  in  page  398,  which  see.  The  red  stalked  celery, 
is  extremely  valuable,  blanches  very  white,  and  is  by  most  people, 
who  have  had  the  opportunity  of  cultivating  it,  preferred  to  any 
other. 

The  following  method  of  planting  out  celery  may  also  be  prac- 
tised, which  for  the  ease  of  preserving  the  plants  in  winter  will  be 
found  extremely  convenient;  besides,  a  greater  quantity  can  be 
raised  on  the  same  compliment  of  land.  Lay  out  the  ground 


424  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  [JULY, 

into  four  teet  wide  beds,  with  alleys  between,  of  three  feet ;  dig  the 
beds  a  spade  deep,  throwing  the  earth  upon  these  alleys  ;  when 
done,  lay  four  or  five  inches  of  good,  well  rotted  hot-bed  or  other 
dung,  all  over  the  bottom  of  the  beds,  dig  and  incorporate  it  with 
the  loose  earth  remaining,  and  cover  the  whole  with  an  inch,  or  an 
inch  and  a  half,  of  the  earth  from  the  alleys  ;  plant  four  rows  in 
each  bed  at  equal  distances,  and  eight  inches  apart  in  the  rows  ; 
after  which,  give  them  a  plentiful  watering,  and  stick  down  small 
branches  of  cedar,  or  of  any  kind  of  evergreen  shrubs  between  the 
rows,  to  shade  them  from  the  sun  till  well  rooted,  when  the  branches 
are  to  be  taken  away.  The  plants  must  be  kept  free  from  weeds, 
till  grown  of  a  sufficient  size  for  earthing,  which  is  done  with  the  as- 
sistance of  boards,  by  laying  them  along  the  rows,  to  support  the 
leaves  while  you  are  putting  in  the  earth  from  the  alleys,  and  re- 
moving them  as  you  progress  in  the  business.  For  the  method 
of  preserving  the  plants  in  winter,  see  the  Kitchen-Garden  in  No- 
vember. 

Land  or  earth  up  your  early  crops  of  celery,  first  breaking  the 
earth  fine  with  the  spade,  and  then  laying  it  up  neatly,  to  both  sides, 
always,  preserving  the  tops  and  hearts  of  the  plants  free,  that  they 
may  continue  in  growth  without  any  interruption  ;  repeat  this  earth- 
ing, at  intervals,  of  eight  or  ten  days,  till  the  plants  are  sufficiently 
blanched  and  of  proper  size  for  use.  Sow  a  little  more  seed  in  the 
first  week  of  the  month,  to  answer  for  a  late  crop,  if  such  should  be 
wanted. 

Turneps. 

Any  time  between  the  twentieth  of  this  month  and  the  middle  of 
August,  a  principal  crop  of  turneps  may  be  sown  for  autumn  and 
\vinter  use  ;  but  the  earlier  they  are  sown  in  that  period,  the  larger 
size  will  the  roots  attain  to.  It  would  be  of  much  importance  to  take 
advantage  of  moist  weather  for  this  purpose,  should  such  happen 
in  due  season. 

As  the  cultivation  of  turneps  upon  an  extensive  scale,  as  well  for 
the  feeding  of  cattle  during  the  winter  months,  as  for  culinary  pur- 
poses, may  and  ought  to  become  an  interesting  object,  to  the  citi- 
zens of  the  United  States,  I  deem  it  the  more  necessary  to  give 
some  information  respecting  the  field  culture  of  that  very  valuable 
root. 

The  turnep  delights  in  a  light,  sandy  loam  ;  if  a  little  moist  the 
better,  especially  in  warm  climates.  Upon  new  or  fresh  ground 
they  are  always  sweeter,  than  on  an  old  or  worn  out  soil.  Though 
Biich  is  the  kind  of  land  best  adapted  to  the  raising  of  turneps,  yet 
they  are  cultivated  upon  every  sort  of  soil  in  use  as  arable  land. 

Much  of  the  sandy  soil  now  laying  waste  in  various  parts  of  the 
Union,  might,  with  the  assistance  of  culture,  and  a  small  portion  of 
manure,  be  profitably  employed  in  producing  turneps  ;  for  such 
ground,  if  dressed  with  a  light  coat  of  clay  or  loam,  would  yield 
excellent  crops  of  this  vegetable. 

The  ground  intended  for  the  production  of  turneps  in  the  en- 
suing season,  ought  to  be  deeply  ploughed,  in  October,  or  Novein- 


JULY.]  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  425 

her,  and  to  be  left  in  that  rough  state,  to  receive  the  benefits  of  the 
winter  frosts,  £cc.  In  the  April  following,  when  it  is  perfectly  dry, 
harrow  it  and  let  it  lie  so  till  the  middle  of  May,  when  it  should 
have  another  deep  ploughing  across,  or  contrarywise  to  the  form- 
er ;  the  first  week  in  June  harrow  it,  and  towards  the  end  of  that 
month,  give  the  field  a  light  coat  of  well  rotted  manure,  and  im- 
mediately plough  it  in  lightly  ;  after  which  the  soil  and  manure  are 
to  be  well  incorporated,  by  harrowing  the  ground  effectually  with  a 
weighty  harrow. 

Ah  !  says  the  farmer,  this  will  never  do,  the  crop  will  not  be 
worth  the  expence... .First,  make  one  fair  experiment,  and  I  am  con- 
fident you  will  not  give  up  the  pursuit :  you  ought  to  take  into  con- 
sideration, that  after  the  turneps  are  off  the  ground,  it  will  be  in  a 
high  state  of  preparation  for  several  successive  crops,  of  various 
kinds,  and  that  without  this,  or  similar  tillage,  it  may  remain  dur- 
ing your  life  in  an  unproductive  state. 

There  are  four  principal  varieties  of  the  turnep,  which  are  culti- 
vated in  the  field  way,  1.  The  white  Norfolk.  2.  The  large  pur- 
ple topped.  3.  The  large  green,  and  4,  the  pudding,  or  tankard- 
shaped  turnep.  The  last  is  in  shape  so  perfectly  different  from 
the  other  sorts,  that  it  might  be  ranked  as  a  distinct  species.  In- 
stead of  spreading  itself  flat  upon  the  ground,  or  burying  itself 
partially  in  the  surface  mould,  it  rises  in  a  cylindrical  form,  eight, 
ten,  or  twelve  inches  high  ;  standing  almost  wholly  out  of  ground. 
In  either  contexture  or  quality,  it  resembles  very  much  the  large 
white  Norfolk  turnep  ;  of  which,  it  is  by  much  the  most  formidable 
rival.  Indeed  for  early  sowing  to  be  eaten  off  in  autumn,  this 
long  rooted  kind  seems  to  gain  a  preference,  as  being  earlier  and 
more  tender  than  any  of  the  other  sorts,  but  it  will  not  keep  as  well 
in  winter. 

The  time  of  sowing  depends  much  on  the  application  ;  when 
turneps  are  intended  for  early  consumption,  they  may  be  sown  soon 
after  the  middle  of  this  month  ;  the  general  mode,  in  the  middle 
states,  is,  to  begin  to  sow  about  the  twentieth  of  July,  and  to 
continue  sowing,  as  convenient,  from  this  time  to  the  middle  of 
August,  or  a  few  days  after. 

If  a  farmer  could  insure  his  first  crop,  I  would  not  advise  him  to 
sow  till  the  last  four  days  in  this  month,  or  even  to  the  third  or  fourth 
day  of  August,  but  liable  as  the  turnep  crop  is,  to  numerous  ac- 
cidents and  miscarriages,  it  is,  prudent  to  have  a  week  or  two  in  re- 
serve for  a  second  sowing,  in  case  the  first  should  fail. 

The  quantity  of  seed  sown  on  an  acre,  by  the  great  turnep  far- 
mers, is  never  less  than  one  pound  ;  more  frequently  a  pound  and  a 
half,  and  by  some  two.  If  every  grain  was  to  come  to  perfection  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  would  be  more  than  sufficient,  but  having  to 
cnco' inter  so  many  accidents,  a  pound  is  the  least  quantity  that 
ought  to  be  sown  on  an  acre. 

The  period  in  which  you  intend  to  sow,  being  arrived,  plough  your 
prepared  turnep  ground  once  more,  lightly  ;  give  it  one  or  two 
strokes  of  the  harrow  all  over,  and  sow  the  seed  immediately  on 
the  fresh  surface.  The  method  of  sowing  is  generally,  by  broad- 

3  i 


426  ™E  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  [JITLY, 

cast,  with  a  "high  and  even  hand  ;  but  some  sow  it  in  rows  by  means 
of  a  machine  called  a  turnep-drill,  which  method  is  greatly  approved 
of,  particularly,  as  by  it  much  labour  is  saved  in  hoeing  and  thinning 
the  plants. 

In  the  former  method  the  seed  is  covered  by  drawing  a  light  har- 
row backward,  that  is,  wrong  end  foremost,  to  prevent  the  tines 
which  are  generally  set  somewhat  pointed  forward,  from  tearing  up 
the  clods  and  burying  the  seed  too  deep. 

One  of  the  most  important  parts  of  the  treatment,  due  to  the 
cultivation  of  the  turnep,  yet  remains  to  be  done,  that  is,  to  roll  the 
field  with  a  heavy  roller  immediately  after  harrowing  in  the  seedy 
provided  that  the  ground  is  sufficiently  dry,  or  as  soon  after,  as  it  is 
in  a  fit  condition.  By  this  means  all  the  clods  are  broken,  and 
much  of  the  seed  that  would  otherwise  be  exposed  to  birds,  See. 
•will  be  covered,  the  surface  rendered  smooth  and  compact 
thereby,  and  consequently,  more  retentive  of  moisture,  which  will 
greatly  promote  the  vegetation  of  the  seed  and  growth  of  the 
plants. 

But  the  all  important  point  is,  that  the  rolling  of  the  ground,  is 
experimentally  found  to  be  the  most  effectual  method,  hitherto  dis- 
covered for  the  preservation  of  the  rising  crop  from  the  destructive 
depredations  of  the  fly.  Th»e  turnep  fly,  is  always  found  most  nu- 
merous in  rough  worked  ground,  as  there,  they  can  retreat  and  take 
shelter  under  the  clods  or  lumps  of  earth,  from  such  changes  ©f 
weather  as  are  disagreeable  to  them,  or  from  the  attacks  of  small 
birds  and  other  animals. 

Experiments  have  been  tried,  on  coating  the  seed,  with  sulphur, 
soot,  Sec.  and  of  steeping  it  in  fain  oil  and  in  solutions  of  various 
kinds,  as  a  security  against  the  fly,  but  the  result  has  not  been 
such,  as  to  establish  any  practise  of  this  nature. 

Hoeing  the  plants,  and  setting  them  out,  as  it  is  called,  comes  next 
under  consideration  ;  the  method  of  doing  this  dexterously  is  dif- 
ficult to  describe,  nothing  but  practise  can  teach  it.  A  boy  in  the 
tnrnep  counties,  by  the  time  he  is  the  height  of  the  hoe  begins  to 
make  use  of  it,  consequently,  every  man  who  has  been  brtd  there 
to  country  business,  is  a  turnep-hoer,  yet  not  always,  even  with  this 
advantage,  an  expert  one. 

The  operation  to  be  performed  dexterously  and  well,  requires  a 
quickness  of  eye  and  a  dexterity  of  hand  that  every  man  is  not 
favoured  with  ;  while  some  men  catch  the  proper  plants  to  be 
singled,  and  set  them  out,  with  a  rapidity  and  neatness  of  execu- 
tion, very  pleasing  to  the  observer. 

The  hoe  is  generally  drawn  round  the  plant  with  a  long  sweep- 
ing stroke,  and  when  the  plants  are  small,  this  is  the  only  stroke 
that  can  be  used  with  propriety ;  but  when  they  are  grovn  out  of 
the  danger  of  being  buried,  a  short  straight  stroke  is  mere  expe- 
ditious. 

Upon  the  whole  it  matters  not,  which  way  the  operation  i ,  per- 
formed, provided  the  ground  be  stirred,  the  weeds  eradicated,  and 
the  plants  set  out  singly  and  at  proper  distances. 


JULY.]  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  427 

The  due  distance  is  from  seven  to  twelve  inches  every  way  ;  this 
must  be  regulated  according  to  the  strength  of  the  land,  the  time  of 
sowing,  and  the  kind  of  turnep  cultivated  ;  strong  ground  and  early 
sowing,  always  producing  the  largest  roots. 

The  width  of  the  hoe,  should  be  in  proportion  to  the  medium  dis- 
tance to  be  left  between  the  plants,  and  this  to  their  expected  size. 

The  critical  time  of  the  first  hoeing  is*  when  the  plants  as  they 
lie  spread  upon  the  ground,  are  nearly  the  size  of  the  palm  of  the 
hand  ;  if,  however,  seed  weeds  be  numerous  and  luxuriant,  they 
ought  to  be  checked  before  the  turnep  plants  arrive  at  that  size  ; 
test  by  being  drawn  up  tail  and  slender,  they  should  acquire  a  weak 
sickly  habit. 

A  second  hoeing  should  be  given  when  the  leaves  are  grown  to 
the  height  of  eight  or  nine  inches,  in  order  to  destroy  weeds,  loosen 
the  earth,  and  finally  to  regulate  the  plants  ;  a  third,  if  found  neces- 
sary, may  be  given  at  any  subsequent  period. 

Here  again,  will  the  farmer  exclaim  against  the  expence  and 
trouble  of  hoeing ;  but  let  him  try  one  acre  in  this  way,  and  leave 
another  of  the  same  quality  to  nature,  as  is  too  frequently  done,  and 
he  will  find  that  the  extra  produce  of  the  hoed  acre,  will  more  than 
six  times  compensate  for  the  labour  bestowed. 

Some  will  expect  that  I  should  take  notice  of  the  Swedish  turnep, 
or  Roota  Baga,  as  it  is  called,  but  this  being  more  allied  to  the  tur- 
nep-rooted  cabbage  than  to  the  common  garden  or  field  turnep,  it 
requires  to  be  sown  in  a  different  season.  The  seed  of  this  species 
ought  to  be  sown  either  in  April  or  May,  in  drills  or  in  the  broad  cast 
way,  at  pleasure ;  as  the  plants  advance  in  growth,  they  are  to  be 
hoed  out  to  the  distance  of  about  sixteen  inches  every  way ;  they  will 
continue  growing  and  increasing  in  size  till  late  in  autumn,  when, 
if  not  used  before,  they  may  be  taken  up  and  preserved  through  the 
winter,  in  like  manner  as  turneps,  than  which  they  are  more  hardy, 
will  keep  better,  and  be  as  fresh  in  May  as  at  Christmas. 

The  flesh  of  the  root  is  yellow,  sweet,  and  firm,  being  nearly  twice 
as  heavy  as  a  common  turnep  of  the  same  size ;  when  dressed  for 
the  table,  it  is  by  most  people  preferred  to  the  garden  turnep,  and  is 
peculiarly  grateful  to  most  sorts  of  cattle. 

In  the  Kitchen-Garden,  the  early  Dutch,  early  stone,  green  top- 
ped, red  round,  white  round,  and  yellow  turneps,  are  excellent  kinds 
to  cultivate  for  table  use,  and  full  crops  of  them  ought  to  be  sown 
between  the  twentieth  of  this  month  and  the  middle  of  August, 

Lettuces. 

Thin  and  transplant  such  lettuces  as  were  sown  last  month,  water 
them  immediately  after,  and  repeat  it  as  often  as  necessary  till  the 
plants  are  well  rooted. 

Sow  more  lettuce  seed  in  the  beginning,  middle,  and  particular- 
ly, in  the  last  week  of  the  month,  in  order  to  have  a  regular  and 
constant  supply  for  the  table.  The  white  Silecia,  brown  Dutch, 
India,  Imperial,  grand  admiral,  and  Saxony  cabbage  lettuce,  are  ajl 
very  good  kinds  to  sow  at  this  time. 


428  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  [JULY, 


Sjunach. 

In  the  last  week  of  this  month,  a  good  crop  of  spinach  may  be 
sown  for  autumn  use ;  it  will  not  then,  be  so  subject  to  run  to  seed 
as  in  the  former  months.  The  round  seeded  kind,  is  always  pre- 
ferable, for  summer  and  autumn  service. 

Radishes. 

Radishes  of  every  kind  may  be  sown  in  the  last  week  of  this 
month,  with  a  good  prospect  of  success,  but  particularly,  the  white 
and  black  Spanish,  or  winter  sorts  ;  of  which,  you  ought  to  sow  a 
full  crop  for  autumn  use. 

Sow,  likewise,  some  of  the  short -top,  salmon,  and  turnep-rooted 
radishes ;  should  the  season  prove  any  way  moist,  they  will  suc- 
ceed tolerably  well.  Let  all  these  kinds  be  now  sown,  on  moist 
loamy  ground. 

Sow  Cabbage  Seed. 

Sow  some  of  the  early  York,  Battersea,  and  sugar-loaf  kinds  of 
cabbage,  for  a  supply  of  young  greens  during  the  autumn ;  the 
hearts  of  these  are  very  delicious,  when  grown  to  a  tolerable  size, 
and  are,  by  many,  very  much  admired  j  when  used  in  that  state, 
they  are  called  coleworts,  having  totally  superseded  the  true  cole- 
wort,  which  was  formerly  cultivated  for  boiled  sallads.  Some  savor 
seed  may,  also,  be  sown  at  this  time  fora  late  winter  crop. 

Artichokes. 

If  you  desire  to  have  large  artichokes,  you  must  in  the  first  week 
of  this  month,  if  not  clone  in  June,  in  order  to  encourage  the  main 
head,  cut  off  all  the  suckers  or  small  heads  which  are  produced  from 
the  sides  of  the  stems  ;  and  these  may  now  be  dressed  for  the  table. 

The  maturity  of  a  full  grown  artichoke,  is  apparent  by  the  open- 
ing of  the  scales  ;  and  it  should  always  be  cut  off,  before  the  flower 
appears  in  the  centre. 

As  soon  as  the  head,  or  heads,  are  collected  from  any  stem,  let 
it  be  immediately  cut  down  close  to  the  ground.  This  practice  is 
too  often  disregarded,  but  such  neglect  is  utterly  wrong ;  for  the 
stems,  if  permitted  to  remain,  would  greatly  impoverish  the  roots, 
and  injure  them  much  more  than  is  generally  imagined. 

Where  cardoons  are  in  request,  and  that  they  were  not  planted 
out  last  month,  it  should  be  done  in  the  first  week  of  this,  as  di- 
rected in  page  40 1 . 

Collecting  Seeds. 

Collect  all  kinds  of  seeds  that  come  to  good  maturity,  cutting 
off,  or  pulling  up  the  stems  with  the  seed  thereon,  as  they  ripen  ; 
find  spread  them  in  some  airy  place  where  they  can  receive  no  wet, 
in  order  that  the  seeds  may  dry  and  harden  gradually  ;  observing 


JULY.]  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  429 

to  turn  them  now  and  then,  and  not  to  lay  such  a  quantity  toge- 
ther, as  might  bring  on  a  fermentation  and  hazard  the  loss  of  the 
whole.  When  they  are  sufficiently  dry,  beat  out  and  clean  the 
seeds,  and  put  them  by  in  boxes  or  bags  till  wanted. 

Leeks. 

You  may  still  continue  to  transplant  leeks,  as  directed  in  page 
399  ;  by  this  method,  they  will  grow  to  a  great  size,  and  be  much 
better  for  use  than  if  suffered  to  remain  in  the  seed-beds. 

Herbs. 

Gather  herbs  for  drying  and  distilling,  as  they  come  into  flower, 
and  dry  them  in  the  shade. 

Sage;  hysop,  thyme,  lavender,  winter  savory,  and  many  other 
kinds  may  still  be  propagated,  by  slips  of  the  present  year's  growth, 
giving -them  shade  and  occasional  waterings  till  rooted.  Plant 
them  two  thirds  of  their  length  into  the  earth. 

Gather  chamomile,  marigold,  and  such  other  flowers  as  may  be 
wanted,  and  that  are  now  in  bloom  :  spread  the  flowers  in  the  shade 
till  sufficiently  dry,  and  then  put  them  up  in  paper  bags,  &c. 

Sowing  Peas. 

In  the  last  week  of  the  month,  sow  a  crop  of  the  early  frame, 
Charleston,  or  golden-hotspur  peas.  Water  the  Drills  and  let  the 
peas  be  soaked  in  soft  water  five  or  six  hours  previous  to  sowing. 
Should  the  season  prove  moist,  you  will  have  a  tolerable  crop 
from  these,  early  in  September. 

Egg-Plant,  Red-Peppers  and  Tomatoes. 

In  the  first  week  of  this  month,  if  not  done  before,  plant  out 
sufficient  crops  of  egg-plants,  red-peppers  and  tomatoes,  as  directed 
last  month  ;  if  the  weather  be  unfavourable  give  them  shade  and 
water  till  well  taken  with  the  ground ;  but  on  no  account  delay  the 
final  planting  of  the  egg-plants  longer ;  the  red-peppers  may  be 
transplanted  any  time  in  the  month,  but  the  earlier  the  better. 

Ordinary   Work. 

Diligently  destroy  weeds,  before  they  seed,  in  every  part  of 
the  ground,  and  immediately  carry  them  away  out  of  the  garden. 
Give  water  to  such  plants  and  crops  as  require  it ;  but,  let  this  be 
done  always  in  an  evening,  that  it  may  have  time  to  soak  down  to 
the  roots,  before  the  sun  appears  to  exhale  it. 

Earth  up  your  advancing  crops  of  cabbages,  and  all  other  plants 
of  that  tribe ;  likewise,  okra,  peas,  kidney-beans,  &c.  this  will 
greatly  refresh  them,  and  protect  their  roots  and  fibres  from  the 
powerful  heat  of  the  sun. 


430  THE  FRUIT-GARDEN.  [JULY. 

Pull  up  the  stalks  of  beans,  cauliflowers,  cabbages,  and  the  haulm 
of  peas  and  other  plants,  which  have  done  bearing,  that  the  ground 
may  be  clear  ;  for  if  these  are  suffered  to  remain,  they  will  har- 
bour vermin  to  the  injury  of  the  adjoining  crops. 


THE  FRUIT-GARDEN. 

Wall  and  Espalier  Trees. 

IN  the  beginning  of  this  month,  you  must  look  carefully  over 
your  wall  and  espalier  trees,  rubbing  off  all  fore-right  shoots,  and 
training  in  all  such  regular  growths  as  are  designed  to  remain, 
close  to  the  wall  or  espalier,  at  regular  distances,  and  in  their  due 
position.  Never  pull  off  any  leaves,  nor  thin  the  branches,  in  or- 
der to  expose  the  fruit  to  the  sun ;  as  the  sudden  exposure  would 
be  extremely  injurious  to  them  ;  by  it,  their  skins  would  be  har- 
dened and  contracted,  and  their  growth  greatly  retarded.  Though 
I  am  not  fond  of  using  the  knife,  too  freely  at  this  season,  which  is 
a  very  common  and  pernicious  practice,  yet  it  will  be  proper  to 
cut  out  irregular  and  disorderly  shoot*  ;  but  this  must  be  done  ju- 
diciously, and  an  abundant  supply  of  young  wood  left  for  the  winter 
pruning,  particularly  on  the  peaches,  nectarines,  figs,  apricots  and 
morella-cherries,  which  generally  bear  their  fruit  on  the  preceding 
year's  wood  ;  the  apricot  bears  on  fruiting-spurs  likewise. 

Pick  off  all  punctured  and  decaying  fruit,  and  give  them  to  the 
hogs  ;  also,  such  as  have  fallen,  in  that  state,  from  the  trees  ;  for 
the  worms  that  are  in  these  fruit,  which  have  been  the  cause  of  their 
decline,  will  soon  arrive  at  their  fly  or  winged  state,  and  attack  the 
remaining  fruit. 

Look  carefully  over  the  fruit-trees,  which  have  been  grafted 
last  spring,  or  budded  in  the  former  season,  and  suffer  no  shoots 
from  the  stocks  to  remain,  for  these  will  rob  the  grafts  of  their 
nourishment. 

Budding  or  Inoculating. 

Budding  may  be  performed  on  some  kinds  of  fruit-trees,  about 
the  middle  of  this  month,  but  as  that  subject  is  fully  treated  of, 
in  tbe  Nursery  department,  1  refer  you  thereto,  for  information. 

Destroy   Wasps,  &c. 

Hang  up  glass  phials,  filled  with  honey  or  sugar  water,  in  dif- 
ferent parts  among  the  wall,  espalier,  and  standard  fruit-trees  ;  in  or- 
der to  destroy  wasps,  ants,  &c.  which  would  otherwise  infest  and 


JILT.]  THE  VINEYARD.  43 1 

devour  the  choice  fruit ;  by  the  sweetness  of  the  water  they  are 
tempted  into  the  phials,  and  frequently  drowned  ;  but  these  should 
be  hung  before  the  fruit  begins  to  ripen,  for  then  the  insects  would 
be  much  sooner  tempted  to  the  water,  than  after  having  tasted  the 
fruit :  where  a  sufficient  number  of  glasses  are  placed  in  time, 
properly  attended  to,  and  the  water  occasionally  renewed,  very 
little  damage  is  done  by  those  insects. 

Clean  the  Borders,  &c. 

Hoe  and  clean  the  ground  about  your  espalier  and  wall  trees,  for 
if  weeds  are  permitted  to  grow  at  this  season,  they  will  rob  the  trees 
of  a  great  portion  of  their  nourishment :  cut  oft'  all  suckers  which 
arise  from  the  roots  of  the  trees,  as  they  are  produced,  for  these  arc 
robbers  and  would  injure  them  much  if  suffered  to  remain. 


THE  ORCHARD. 


LITTLE  remains  to  be  done  during  this  month  in  the  Or- 
chard, but  to  feast  on  its  delicious  productions  :  however,  it  will  be 
very  proper,  to  pick  and  carry  away,  all  decayed  and  fallen  fruit, 
for  the  reasons  assigned  in  the  Fruit-Garden  for  this  month.  Should 
any  of  the  trees  show  canker,  or  much  gum,  you  may  now  cut  out 
the  decayed  part,  clean  to  the  fresh  wood,  and  give  it  a  dressing  of 
the  medicated  tar  prescribed  in  page  39,  giving  this  medication  a 
due  consistence  as  there  directed,  to  prevent  its  melting  away  by 
the  heat  of  the  weather ;  or  you  may  apply  Mr.  Forsyth's  compo- 
sition, for  which  see  page  217. 

Where  it  can  be  done  without  injury,  it  would  be  of  use  to  turn 
pigs  into  the  orchard  at  this  season,  to  eat  up  the  fallen,  decayed 
fruit,  and,  consequently,  to  destroy  the  numerous  brood  ©f  insects 
contained  therein. 


THE  VINEYARD. 


IN  the  middle  states,  the  grapes  are  generally  set  or  formed, 
about  the  first  week  of  this  month;  when,  all  the  loose  hanging 
shoots,  are  to  be  neatly  tied  up  to  the  stakes,  and  the  useless  weak 
growths,  as  well  as  the  suckers  arising  from  the  roots  and  lower 
parts  of  the  stems,  cleared  or  cut  away  j  but  by  no  means  divest 


432  THE  VINEYARD.  [JULY. 

any  of  the  branches  of  their  leaves,  as  some  unskilful  persons  too 
often  practise,  for  these  are  absolutely  necessary  to  the  growth  and 
protection  of  the  fruit :  the  small  side  shoots  growing  on  the  main 
branches  from  the  axillas  of  the  leaves,  should,  if  time  permits,  be 
nipped  off  as  they  are  produced,  which  will  tend  considerably  to 
strengthen  the  principal  shoots. 

When  the  vines  are  suffered,  for  some  time,  to  hang  loose  and 
trail  about  upon  the  ground,  all  their  leaves  grow  upward ;  which, 
on  the  shoots  being  afterwards  bound  in  an  upright  position  to  the 
stakes,  are  turned  upside  down  ;  and  until  these  leaves  resume  their 
natural  position,  which  they  are  commonly  eight  or  ten  days  in  ef- 
fecting, the  fruit  is  at  a  stand,  and  consequently,  loses  the  advan- 
tage of  that  length  of  time,  in  the  principal  season  of  its  growth. 

The  ground  should  be  kept  constantly  free  from  weeds,  either  by 
means  of  the  plough  and  harrow,  or  by  hoe ;  for  where  there  are 
other  plants  suffered  to  grow,  they  not  only  rob  the  roots  of  the 
vines  of  their  nourishment,  but  also  by  perspiring,  cause  a  damp  in 
the  air,  and  prevent  the  sun  and  wind  from  exhaling  and  carrying 
away  the  vapours  arising  from  the  earth,  whereby  the  fruit  would 
be  filled  with  crude  nourishment  and  rendered  of  much  less  value 
for  making  good  wine,  as  well  as  unpalatable. 

Towards  the  latter  end  of  the  month,  the  extremities  of  the  fruit- 
bearing  shoots  may  be  nipped  off,  to  check  the  too  great  luxuriancy 
of  their  growth,  and  to  afford  the  bunches  of  grapes  a  greater  por- 
tion of  nourishment ;  but  this  ought  not  to  be  done  too  close  to  the 
fruit,  as  it  would  check  the  free  ascent  of  the  juices  into  those 
branches,  by  depriving  them  of  the  means  of  discharging  such  a 
portion  thereof  as  is  not  convertible  into  wood  or  fruit :  and  more- 
over, though  the  fruit  might  by  this  means,  be  swelled  to  a  greater 
size,  it  would  be  more  replete  with  watery  particles,  and  less  with 
that  refined  saccharine  juice,  so  pleasing  to  the  palate,  and  so  neces- 
sary for  the  making  of  good  wine. 

Such  shoots  as  are  intended  to  be  cut  down  in  the  pruning  season, 
for  next  years'"  fruiting,  are  by  no  means  to  be  topped,  but  should 
be  suffered  to  grow  at  full  length,  taking  care  to  keep  them  con- 
stantly divested  of  any  side -branches,  which  ought  always  to  be 
rubbed  off  as  they  appear.  Were  those  to  be  topped  at  this  season, 
it  would  force  out  at  an  untimely  period,  many  of  the  flower-buds 
which  nature  had  designed  for  the  ensuing  year,  and  consequently, 
at  that  time,  render  the  vines  barren  and  unproductive. 


JULY.]  433 


THE  NURSERY. 


Budding  or  Inoculating, 

THE  budding  or  inoculating  of  cherries  and  plums,  and  all 
such  other  trees  and  shrubs  as  are  subject  to  become  bark-bound 
in  autumn,  is  generally  commenced  in  the  middle  states  about  the 
fifteenth  of  this  month,  earlier  or  later  according  to  the  season  or 
the  quantity  to  be  budded ;  these  and  others  of  the  like  nature 
should  now  be  attended  to,  as  they  seldom  work  freely  after  the 
twenty -fifth  of  July.  But  this  you  may  always  easily  know  by  try- 
ing the  buds  ;  and  when  they  readily  part  from  the  wood,  and  also 
the  bark  of  the  stock  rises  or  separates  freely,  then  the  work  may 
be  done. 

But  let  it  be  particularly  remarked,  that  every  kind  of  tree  or 
shrub  that  makes  new  autumn  shoots,  or  that  continues  in  a  free 
growth,  or  flow  of  sap,  should  be  budded  either  in  August,  or  before 
the  twentieth  of  September,  according  as  each  kind  is  early  or  late 
in  ripening  its  wood,  that  is,  to  bud  each  sort  before  it  becomes 
bark-bound  ;  and  likewise  observe  that  all  those  kinds,  which  are 
likely  to  become  bark-bound  early  in  autumn,  ought  to  be  budded 
in  this  month,  while  the  juices  flow  freely  in  the  stocks  and  buds. 

If  trees  or  shrubs  are  inoculated  in  the  early  part  of  this  month 
whose  nature  it  is  to  take  a  second  growth  in  autumn,  the  buds  will 
then  start,  and  the  shoots  produced  therefrom,  not  having  a  suffi- 
cient length  of  season  to  ripen  the  wood,  will  either  be  destroyed 
the  ensuing  winter,  or  so  much  injured  as  never  to  make  good 
trees :  therefore,  budding  ouyht  to  be  performed  on  the  respective 
kinds,  at  such  periods  as  there  will  be  no  hazard  of  their  growing 
before  the  ensuing  spring,  when  they  will  have  the  advantage  of  the 
whole  season  for  perfecting  their  wood,  and  of  acquiring  a  sufficient 
strength  and  texture  before  winter. 

Apricols  if  worked  on  plum  stocks,  or  on  those  of  its  own 
kind,  should  be  budded  in  this  month,  but  if  on  peach  or  almond, 
August  will  be  a  preferable  period. 

Pears  may  likewise  be  inoculated  late  in  this  month,  but  as  to 
peaches,  nectarines,  almonds,  and  apples,  if  done  now,  the  insert- 
ed buds  would  shoot  in  the  course  of  the  present  season,  and  conse- 
quently be  of  little  value. 

The  stocks  of  cherries,  plums,  and  pears,  that  were  budded  last 
summer,  or  grafted  in  spring,  and  that  have  miscarried,  may  now 
be  inoculated  with  the  same  kinds  of  fruit,  for  those  will  succeed, 
either  by  grafting  or  budding. 

Budding  generally  succeeds  best  when  performed  in  cloudy  wea- 
ther, or  in  the  morning  or  evening ;  for  the  great  power  of  the 
mid-day  sun,  is  apt  to  dry  and  shrivel  the  cuttings  and  buds,  and 
prevent  the  free  union,  that  might  be  expected  immediately  to  take 
place  in  a  favourable  season  j  at  all  events,  let  the  operation  be  per- 

3  K 


434  THE  NURSERY. 

formed  on  the  north  side  of  the  stocks,  which  will  give  the  buds 
every  possible  advantage  of  the  sun. 

In  performing  this  work,  it  will  be  necessary  to  observe,  that 
where  trees  are  intended  for  walls,  or  espaliers,  the  buds  must  be 
inserted  low  in  the  stocks  ;  that  is,  at  the  height  of  five  or  six  inches 
from  the  ground  :  but  if  intended  for  standards,  the  stocks  may  be 
worked  at  the  height  of  three,  four,  five,  or  even  six  feet ;  or,  the 
low  inserted  buds,  may  be  trained  up  on  single  stems,  to  a  proper 
height  for  standards,  or  half  standards,  and  then  be  headed  for  the 
production  of  lateral  branches. 

Where  there  are  wall  or  espalier  trees,  that  do  not  produce  fruit 
of  approved  kinds,  such  may  be  budded  with  any  favourite  sorts  ; 
this  may  be  performed,  either  upon  strong  shoots  of  the  present 
year,  or  on  clean  young  branches  of  two  year's  growth,  or  more  ; 
several  buds  may  be  inserted  in  each  tree  in  different  parts,  by 
which  means  they  will  be  furnished  with  a  sufficiency  of  new  wood, 
of  the  desired  kinds,  and  in  two  or  three  years,  they  will  bear  abun- 
dantly. 

Should  it  be  found  necessary  to  immerse  the  cuttings  from  which 
you  take  your  buds  in  water,  place  therein  only  about  an  inch  of 
their  lower  ends  ;  the  upper  parts  will  be  more  congenially  refresh- 
ed by  that  means,  than  if  the  cutiings  were  entirely  covered  ;  and 
moreover,  the  buds  which  are  soaked  for  any  considerable^time  in 
water,  will  be  so  saturateo!  with  moisture,  as  to  prevent  their  im- 
bibing the  more  congenial  sap  of  the  stocks,  so  that  they  often 
miscarry.  For  the  proper  stocks  to  work  the  various  kinds  upon, 
see  page  242,  &c. 

When  the  stocks  are  from  about  half  an  inch,  or  a  little  less,  to 
an  inch  or  more  in  diameter^  in  the  places  where  the  buds  are  to 
be  inserted,  they  are  then  of  a  proper  size  for  working. 

In  order  to  perform  the  operation,  you  must  be  provided  with  a 
neat  sharp  budding-knife,  having  a  flat  thin  haft  to  open  the  bark  of 
the  stock  for  the  adimission  of  the  bud,  and  likewise,  with  a  quan- 
tity of  new  bass-strings,  which  is  certainly  the  best  of  all  bandages, 
or  if  such  cannot  be  obtained,  some  soft  woolen  yarn  to  tie  round 
it  when  inserted. 

Observe  that  the  head  of  the  stock  is  not  to  be  cutoff,  as  in  graft- 
ing ;  that  the  bud  is  to  be  inserted  into  the  side,  and  the  head 
suffered  to  remain  until  the  spring  following,  when  it  is  to  be  cut 
off  above  the  bud,  as  directed  in  page  251. 

Methods  of  Budding^  or  Inoculating. 

\ .  Having  your  cuttings,  knife  and  bandages  ready,  fix  upon  a 
part  on  the  side  of  the  stock,  at  whatever  height  you  intend 
to  bud  it ;  with  your  knife,  make  a  horizontal  cut  across  the  bark 
of  the  stock  quite  through  to  the  firm  wood  ;  then  from  the  middle 
of  this  cut,  make  a  slit  downwards  perpendicularly,  about  an  inch 
and  a  half  long,  going,  also,  quite  through  to  the  wood,  so  that  th-c 
two  cuts  together  may  be  in  the  form  of  the  letter  T  ;  then  with  the 
point  of  your  knife  raise  the  bark  a  little  at  the  angles  formed  by 


JULY.]  THE  NURSERY.  435 

the  two  cuts,  in  order  to  make  room  for  the  flat  part  of  the  haft, 
to  enter  and  raise  the  bark. 

This  done,  proceed  with  all  expedition,  to  take  off  a  bud,  having 
immediately  previous  to  the  commencement,  cut  off  all  the  leaves, 
leaving  about  an  inch  of  the  footstalk  to  each  bud,  and  holding  the 
cutting  in  one  hand,  with  the  thickest  end  outward  ;  then  enter  the 
knife  about  half  an  inch,  or  rather  more,  below  a  bud,  cutting  nearly 
half  way  into  the  wood  of  the  shoot,  continuing  it  with  one  clean 
slanting  cut  about  as  much  more,  above  the  bud,  so  deep  as  to  take 
©ff  part  of  the  wood  along  with  it,  the  whole  from  an  inch  and  a 
quarter  to  an  inch  and  a  half  long ;  directly  take  out  the  woody  part 
remaining  in  the  bud,  which  is  easily  done  by  placing  the  point  of 
the  knife  between  the  bark  and  wood,  at  either  end,  but  the  upper 
is  the  more  preferable  and  with  the  assistance  ot  the  thumb,  pull 
off  the  wood  from  the  bark,  which  ought,  if  in  good  condition,  to 
part  freely ;  then  quickly  examine  the  inside,  to  see  if  the  root  of 
the  bud  be  left,  and  if  there  appears  a  small  hole,  the  rudiment  of 
the  young  tree  is  gone  with  the  wood,  the  bud  is  rendered  useless, 
and  another  must  be  prepared  ;  but  if  there  be  no  hole,  the  bud  is 
good ;  then  place  the  footstalk  or  back  part  of  the  bud  between  your 
lips,  and  with  the  flat  haft  of  the  knife,  separate  the  bark  from  the 
stock  on  each  side  of  the  perpendicular  cut,  clear  to  the  wood,  for 
the  admission  of  the  bud,  whfch,  directly  slip  down  close  between 
the  wood  and  bark,  till  the  whole  is  inserted  to  within  the  eighth  of 
an  inch  ;  let  this  part  be  cut  through,  into  the  first  transverse  inci- 
sion made  in  the  stock,  and  the  bud  will  fall  neatly  into  its  place,  then 
draw  the  bud  up  gently  so  as  to  join  the  upper  or  cut  end  of  it,  to 
the  bark  of  the  stock,  where  it  will  most  generally  first  unite. 

Let  the  parts  be  then  bound,  with  a  ligature  of  bass,  previously 
immersed  in  water  to  render  it  pliable  and  tough,  or  in  want  of 
this,  with  woolen  yarn  ;  beginning  below  the  bottom  of  the  perpen- 
dicular slit,  and  proceeding  upwards  close  round  every  part,  except 
over  the  eye  or  bud,  which  is  to  be  carefully  preserved,  and  con- 
tinue it  a  little  above  the  horizontal  cut,  not  binding  it  too  tight 
but  just  sufficient  to  keep  the  parts  close,  exclude  the  air,  sun,  and 
wet,  and  thereby  to  promote  the  junction  of  the  stock  and  bud ; 
finish  by  making  the  ligature  fast. 

2.  Although  it  is  universally  recommended,  by  every  author  who 
has  written  on  the  art  of  Gardening,  to  take  the  woody  part  out  of 
the  bud,  before  its  insertion  into  the  stock,  as  above  directed,  I  find 
such  practise  by  no  means  necessary  ;  for  if  the  bud  be  taken  off 
with  a  less  portion  of  wood  than  in  the  former  method,  and  imme- 
diately inserted  as  above  directed,  it  will  succeed  full  as  well,  if  not 
better,  and  as  to  expedition,  there  is  no  comparison ;  certainly 
double  the  number  can  be  inserted,  in  the  same  period  of  time,  by 
this  method,  as  by  the  former.  It  will  be  found  particularly  con- 
venient for  the  budding  of  lemons  and  oranges,  and  may,  also,  be 
practised  at  periods  in  which  the  first  method  would  be  totally  un- 
successful, that  is,  when  the  buds  are  not  sufficiently  ripe  to  exist 
without  the  young  wood,  or  too.  much  so,  for  the  bark  to  separate 
freely.  This  method  may  be  practised,  when  desired,  at  a  much 


436  THE  NURSERY.  [JULY. 

earlier  period  than  the  former,  and,  also,  as  late  in  the  season  as 
the  bark  of  the  stock  will  rise  freely,  for  the  admission  of  the  bud. 

In  three  weeks  or  a  month  after  inoculation,  you  will  see  which 
of  them  have  taken,  by  their  fresh  and  plum])  appearance,  and  at 
that  time  you  should  loosen  the  bandages,  for  if  kept  on  too  long 
they  would  pinch  the  stocks  and  greatly  injure,  if  not  destroy,  the 
buds.  Those  that  appear  shrivelled,  black,  or  decayed,  are  good 
for  nothing. 

In  this  dormant  state  the  buds  should  remain,  till  the  March  fol* 
lowing,  when  the  stocks  are  to  be  headed  down,  as  directed  in  the 
J\ursery  for  that  month. 

Note.  The  cuttings  should  not  be  taken  off  the  trees  in  the  mid- 
dle of  the  day,  if  the  weather  be  hot  and  dry,  for  at  such  times  they 
•will  perspire  so  fast,  as  soon  to  leave  the  buds  destitute  of  moisture; 
but  if  you  are  obliged  to  fetch  them  from  some  distance,  as  it 
often  happens,  you  should  be  provided  with  a  tin  case,  about 
twelve  inches  long,  and  a  cover  to  the  top,  which  must  have  five  or 
six  holes  ;  in  this 'case,  you  should  put  as  much  water  as  will  fill  it 
about  two  inches  high,  and  place  your  cuttings  therein  in  an  up- 
right position,  so  that  the  parts  which  were  cut  from  the  tree  may 
be  set  in  the  water,  and  then  fasten  down  the  cover  to-  keep  out  the 
air  ;  the  holes  in  the  cover  will  be  sufficient  to  let  the  perspiration 
of  these  branches  pass  off,  which,  if  pent  in,  would  be  very  hurtful 
to  them  ;  you  must  also  be  careful  to  carry  it  upright,  that  the  water 
may  not  reach  to  the  buds,  which  would  so  saturate  them,  as  to 
cleprive  them  of  any  attractive  force  to  imbibe  the  sap  of  the  stock. 

Inoculate  and  Lay  curious  Trees  and  Shrubs. 

Agreeable  to  the  preceding  directions  and  observations,  inoculate 
roses,  jasmines,  and  such  other  kinds  as  you  desire  to  propagate  in 
that  way.  The  moss  rose,  may,  in  particular,  be  increased  by  this 
means,  as  it  is  not  very  free  in  producing  suckers :  this  may  be 
budded  on  stocks  of  any  kinds  of  common  roses,  that  have  been 
either  raised  from  seed  or  suckers. 

The  proper  siock  to  bud  any  of  the  more  curious  kinds  af  jas- 
mines on,  is  that  of  the  common  white  jasmine. 

Continue,  also,  to  propagate  the  various  kinds  of  trees,  and  shrubs, 
by  layers  and  cuttings,  as  directed  last  month. 

Ordinary  Attendance. 

"Weeding,  shading,  and  watering,  must  now  be  particularly  at- 
tended to,  as  directed  last  month  ;  without  which,  much  injury 
will  be  sustained,  especially,  by  the  seedlings,  layers,  and  late 
transplanted  trees  and  shrubs. 

You  should  continue  to  train  your  evergreens,  for  the  purposes 
they  arc  designed  ;  and  when  any  of  your  forest-trees,  shoot  too 
vigorously  near  the  roots,  those  branches  may  be  pruned  off  to  en- 
Courage  their  heads. 


437 


THE  PLEASURE,  OR  FLOWER-GARDEN. 


Bulbous  and  Tuberous  Roots. 

TAKE  up  the  bulbs  of  such  late  flowers  as  were  not  suffi- 
ciently ripe,  nor  their  leaves  decayed  last  month  ;  as  Ornithoga- 
lurns,  bulbous  Irises,  Martagon,  and  other  Lilies  ;  transplant  the 
roots  of  Fritillaries,  Crown  Imperials,  Dens  Canis,  and  such  other 
bulbous  and  tuberous  rooted  flowers,  as  do  not  endure  to  be  kept 
long  out  of  ground  ;  and  this  being  the  season  in  which  their  roots 
are  not  in  action,  is  the  most  proper  time  for  transplanting  them, 
before  they  put  forth  new  fibres,  after  which,  it  would  be  very  im- 
proper to  remove  them. 

Annual  Flowers. 

You  may  still  transplant  any  of  the  late  sown  balsams,  cock's- 
combs,  p.maranthuses,  China-asters,  Sec.  into  the  borders  or  flower- 
beds where  wanted ;  taking  them  up  with  balls,  or  with  as  much 
earth  as  possible  about  their  roots,  and  giving  them  a  good  water- 
ing when  planted ;  which  is  to  be  occasionally  repeated,  till  they 
are  well  rooted  ;  if  some  shade  could  be  afforded  them  for  a  few 
days,  it  would  the  better  insure  their  success. 

Carnations, 

The  choice  carnations  now  in  flower,  should  be  taken  care  of  and 
assisted  in  their  blowing,  as  directed  last  month  ;  you  may  likewise 
assist  those  of  inferior  qualities,  and  that  have  a  tendency  to  burst, 
by  slitting  the  pod,  or  calyx,  a  little  way  at  top,  on  the  opposite  side 
to  where  it  shows  an  inclination  to  burst,  in  two  or  three  different 
places,  so  as  to  promote  the  spreading  of  the  flower  regularly  each 
way.  This  should  be  done  just  as  the  flower  begins  to  break  the 
pod,  with  a  small  pair  of  narrow  pointed  scissars,  or  with  a  sharp 
pointed  knife,  taking  care  not  to  cut  the  calyx  too  deep,  but  rather 
to  open  it  a  little  at  each  place,  and  to  leave  as  much  of  the  bottom, 
of  the  cup  entire,  as  will  be  sufficient  to  keep  the  petals  or  flower 
leaves  regularly  together. 

Some  Florists  take  great  pains  in  the  opening  of  the  flowers,  to 
assist  nature  in  spreading  and  displaying  the  petals,  so  as  to  enlarge 
the  circumference  and  dispose  the  flower-leaves  in  such  a  manner, 
as  to  shew  the  stripes  and  variegations  to  the  best  possibe  advan- 
tage ;  and  for  this  purpose  make  use  of  a  small  pair  of  wire  nip- 
pers, the  points  of  which  are  flattened,  and  bound  round  with  silk  or 
thread  to  prevent  injury.  With  these  they  extract  such  of  the 
petals  as  do  not  please,  and  display  the  others,  so  as  to  suit  their 
fancy. 


458  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [JULY. 

Continue  to  propagate  your  choice  carnations  and  pinks,  by  layers 
and  pipings,  as  directed  in  page  413  ;  for  the  performance  of  which, 
the  early  part  of  this  month  is  a  very  principal  time.  Give  the 
necessary  shade  and  water  to  the  plants  now  in  flower,  and  see  that 
those  layers  which  were  laid  last  month  are  kept  sufficiently  moist, 
to  promote  their  free  rooting. 

When  the  layers  are  properly  rooted,  which  will  be  the  case  with 
most  sorts  in  a  month  after  laying,  provided  due  care  be  taken  to 
keep  them  regularly  moist,  and  to  shade  them  from  the  heat  of  the 
meridian  sun  ;  they  are  then  to  be  taken  off  from  the  old  plant, 
with  about  half  an  inch  of  the  stalk  which  connects  them  to  it,  and 
be  immediately  planted  in  small  pots,  one,  two,  three  or  four  in 
each.  The  pots  should  be  filled  with  the  compost  recommended  in 
page  287,  previously  adding  thereto,  a  little  more  loam  and  coarse 
sand,  and  when  the  plants  are  neatly  planted  therein,  the  pots 
should  be  buried  to  their  rims  in  a  convenient  airy  place,  and  arches 
of  hoops  placed  over  the  bed,  on  which,  to  lay  mats  to  shade  the 
plants  from  the  sun,  till  well  rooted  and  growing  freely  ;  and  these 
mats  are  to  be  afterwards  laid  on  occasionally  as  necessity  may  re- 
quire, to  protect  the  plants  from  two  powerful  sunshine  or  heavy 
torrents  of  rain,  which  are  both  injurious  to  them. 

Here  they  are  to  remain  till  November,  when  they  must  be  re- 
moved into  their  winter  repository,  as  then  directed  ;  during  this 
time,  they  must  have  a  sufficiency  of  water  as  often  as  it  may  ap- 
pear necessary,  to  keep  them  in  a  constant  growing  state  and  good 
health. 

The  layers  of  the  common  kinds  of  carnations,  should  when  tak- 
en off,  be  planted  in  beds  of  rich  earth,  in  rows  about  six  inches 
asunder  ;  where  they  are  to  be  watered  and  shaded  until  well  taken 
with  the  ground  and  growing.  They  may  remain  in  these  beds 
till  September,  October,  or  March,  and  are  then  to  betaken  up  with 
balls  of  earth,  and  planted  where  intended  to  flower. 

Pinks. 

The  most  valuable  kinds  of  pinks  should  be  treated  in  every  re- 
spect as  directed  for  carnations. 

Sensitive  Plant. 

Thfe  Sensitive  plants  which  have  been  raised  in  hot -beds,  may 
about  the  first  of  this  month,  if  not  done  in  June,  be  brought  out 
into  the  open  air,  and  placed  in  a  very  warm  situation,  for  they  de- 
light in  much  heat ;  but  some  ought  to  be  kept  constantly  under 
glasses,  for  when  fully  exposed  to  the  weather,  they  lose  much  of 
their  sensibility. 

The  species  I  particularly  allude  to,  is  the  Mimosa  fmdtca,  or 
humble  and  sensitive  plant,  which  is  thus  characterized  in  the 
flowing  poetry  of  DARWIN. 

«  Weak  with  nice  sense  the  chaste  Mimosa  stands, 
From  each  rude  touch  withdraws  her  tender  hands; 


j>ttLTj  FLOWER-GARDEN'.  439 

Oft  as  light  clouds  o'erpass  the  summer  glade, 
Alarm'd  she  trembles  at  the  moving  shade ; 
And  feels,  alive  through  all  her  tender  form, 
The  whisper'd  murmurs  of  the  gathering  storm  ; 
Shuts  her  sweet  eye-lids  to  approaching  night ; 
And  hails  with  freshened  charms  the  rising  light." 

«  Naturalists,"  says  Dr.  Darwin,  "  have  not  explained  the  im- 
mediate cause  of  the  collapsing  of  the  Sensitive  plant ;  the  leaves 
meet  and  close  in  the  night  during  the  sleep  of  the  plant,  or  when, 
exposed  to  much  cold  in  the  day  time,  in  the  same  manner  as  when 
they  are  affected  by  external  violence,  folding  their  upper  surfaces 
together,  and  in  part  over  each  other  like  scales  or  tiles  ;  so  as  to 
expose  as  little  of  the  upper  surface  as  may  be  to  the  air ;  but  do> 
not  indeed  collapse  quite  so  far :  for  when  touched  in  the  night 
during  their  sleep,  they  fall  still  farther  ;  especially  when  touched 
on  the  foot-stalks  between  the  stems  and  the  leaflets,  which  seems 
to  be  their  most  sensitive  or  irritable  part.  Now  as  their  situation 
after  being  exposed  to  external  violence  resembles  their  sleep,  but 
with  a  greater  degree  of  collapse,  may  it  not  be  owing  to  a  numb- 
ness or  paralysis  consequent  to  too  violent  irritation,  like  the  fainting* 
of  animals  from  pain  or  fatigue  ?  A  Sensitive  plant  being  kept  in  a 
dark  room  till  some  hours  after  day  break,  its  leaves  and  leaf-stalks 
were  collapsed  as  in  its  most  profound  sleep,  and  on  exposing  it  to 
the  light,  above  twenty  minutes  passed,  before  the  plant  was  tho- 
roughly awake,  and  had  quite  expanded  itself.  During  the  night, 
the  upper  or  smoother  surfaces  of  the  leaves  are  appressed  toge- 
ther ;  this  would  seem  to  shew  that  the  office  of  this  surface  of  the 
leaf  was  to  expose  the  fluids  of  the  plant  to  the  light  as  well  as  to 
the  air." 

The  sensibility  of  this  plant  is  worthy  of  admiration,  that  not 
only  in  the  evening,  or  towards  night,  but  at  all  hours  of  the  day, 
with  the  least  touch,  or  concussion  of  air,  the  leaves  just  like  a  tree 
a  dying,  droop  and  complicate  themselves  immediately,  and  pres- 
ently after  recover,  resuming  their  former  position  ;  so  that  a  per- 
son would  be  induced  to  think  they  were  really  endowed  with  the 
sense  of  feeling. 

The  cause  of  this,  seemed  so  hard  to  be  discovered,  that  a  cu- 
rious Malabarian  philosopher,  upon  his  observing  the  nature  of  this 
plant,  without  being  able  to  discover  the  cause  of  its  sensibility, 
ran  mad  ;  just  as  Aristotle  is  said  to  have  flung  himself  headlong  in- 
to the  sea,  because  he  could  not  comprehend  the  reason  of  its 
ebbing  and  flowing. 

These  plants  are  more  or  less  susceptible  of  the  touch  according 
to  the  warmth  of  the  air  in  which  they  grow,  being  always  more 
irritable  in  proportion  to  the  heat  thereof. 

The  light  is  not  the  only  cause  of  their  expansion,  nor  the  dark- 
ness of  their  contraction,  for  they  are  often  closed  in  the  afternoon 
two  or  three  hours  before  the  sun  descends  the  horizon  ;  and  if  the 
frames  in  which  they  are  kept,  be,  in  the  fore  part  of  the  day,  co- 
vered for  hours,  so  as  to  render  the  place  completely  dark,  yet  the 
leaves  will  continue  their  expansion. 


440  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [JULY. 

Those  plants  which  are  placed  in  the  greatest  \varmth  in  winter, 
continue  vigorous  and  retain  their  faculty  of  contracting  on  being 
touched  ;  but  those  that  are  in  a  moderate  warmth  have  little  or  no 
motion. 

There  are  84  species  of  Mimosa  described  ;  2,  with  simple 
leaves  ;  6,  with  leaves  simply  pinnate  ;  3,  with  bigeminate  or  ter- 
geminate  leaves  ;  9,  with  leaves  conjugate,  and  at  the  same  time 
pinnate;  and  64,  with  doubly-pinnate  leaves  ;  several  of  the  species 
are  more  or  less  sensitive,  but  the  far  greater  number  not  at  all. 

Venus's  fly-trap,. 

The  Dionaa  Muscipula,  or  Venus's  fly-trap,  is  one  of  the  most 
extraordinary  productions  of  nature  :  in  this  plant  there  is  an  aston- 
ishing contrivance,  to  prevent  the  depredations  of  insects :  the 
leaves  are  numerous,  generally  bending  downwards,  or  rather 
spreading  upon  the  surface  of  the  earth,  and  placed  in  a  circular 
order ;  each  leaf  is  divided,  as  it  were,  into  two  joints,  the  lower, 
flat,  longish,  two  edged,  and  inclining  to  heart-shaped  ;  some  con- 
sider this  lower  joint  a  winged  petiole,  similar  to  that  on  an  or 
leaf.  The  upper  joint  consists  of  two  lobes,  each  semi-oval,  the 
margins  furnished  with  stiff  hairs  like  the  eye  lashes,  locking  into 
each  other  when  the  lobes  close,  like  the  teeth  of  a  rat-trap,  to 
which  the  lobes,  marginal  hair$,  and  the  manner  of  their  closing, 
bear  a  particular  resemblance.  The  interior  of  the  lobes  is  very 
irritable,  but  more  particularly  so  in  warm  weather,  when  if  an  unfor- 
tunate fly,  or  any  other  small  animal  happens  to  creep  on  it,  the  lobes 
immediately  fold  up  and  confine  it :  the  greater  efforts  the  creature 
makes  to  disengage  itself,  the  more  it  irritates  the  interior  parts, 
and  consequently,  is  the  more  firmly  secured  :  here  it  remains  till 
crushed  or  starved  to  death  ;  when,  the  irritation  having  ceased, 
the  lobes  open  as  before,  and  the  remains  of  the  insect  is  either 
washed  out  by  the  rain,  or  carried  away  by  the  wind.  The  lobes 
will,  also,  close  if  the  interior  be  touched  with  a  straw,  &c. 

This  plant  is  a  native  of  the  Carolinas  where  it  grows  in  swamps : 
it  produces  in  July  and  August,  bunches  of  handsome  white  flow- 
ers, on  stems  of  from  six  to  eight  inches  high,  and  in  the  eastern 
and  middle  states  must  be  treated  as  a  hardy  green-house  plant. 

It  is  propagated  both  by  seeds  and  suckers,  requires  a  swampy 
soil,  with  a  mixture  of  fine  sand,  and  must  be  kept  well  watered  and 
in  the  shade  during  the  summer  months.  This  is  a  very  proper 
period  to  take  off,  and  plant  the  suckers :  the  seed  should  be  sown 
early  in  spring,  forwarded  in  a  hot-bed,  and,  during  the  summer 
months,  the  seedlings  ought  to  be  carefully  protected  from  the 
mid-day  sun. 

The  Tutsan-leaved  Dogsbane. 

The  AfiQcynum  androsoeinifolium^  or  Tutsan-leav'd  Dogsbane, 
is- not  only  interesting  on  account  of  its  beauty  and  fragrance,  but 
also  on  account  of  the  curious  structure  of  its  flowers,  and  their 
singular  method  and  property  of  catching  flies. 


JULY.]     /  FLOWER-GARDEN.  441 

It  is  a/ardy  perennial,  indigenous  in  various  parts  of  the  United 
States,  jfows  in  a  wild  uncultivated  state  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
Philadejhia,  and  usually  to  the  height  of  from  two  and  a  half  to 
three  fqt ;  flowering  from  the  beginning  of  July  to  September;  it 
has  a  cteping  root,  whereby  it  increases  greatly  in  light  dry  soils, 
and  warn  situations,  so  as  even  to  be  troublesome  ;  it  will  not  thrive 
in  wet  .oil.  It  is  propagated  by  sowing  the  seeds  in  spring,  which 
with  u^  it  produces  abundantly,  or  by  parting  its  roots  in  March  or 

Octobft 

TlW  flowers  of  this  plant  have  a  sweet  honey-like  fragrance,  which 
perfunes  the  air,  and  no  doubt  operates  powerfully  in  attracting 
insects ;  when  a  plant  of  this  sort  is  fully  blown,  one  may  always 
find  fies  caught  in  its  blossoms,  usually  by  the  trunk,  very  rarely 
by  th<  leg,  sometimes  four,  or  even  five,  which  is  the  greatest  pos- 
sible rumber,  are  found  in  one  flower,  some  dead,  others  endeavour- 
ing to  disentangle  themselves,  in  which  they  are  now  and  then  so 
fortunate  as  to  succeed. 

Previous  to  explaining  the  manner  in  which  it  appears  that  these 
fiies  are  caugh:,  it  will  be  necessary  to  describe  those  parts  of  the 
flower  which  nore  particularly  constitutes  this  fatal  fly-trap. 

On  looking<nto  the  flower  there  are  perceivable  five  Stamina,  the 
Anthers  of  w.iich  are  large,  of  a  yellow  colour,  and  converge  into  a 
kind  of  cone  each  of  these  Antherse  is  arrow-shaped  ;  towards  the 
top  of  the  c*ne  their  sides  touch  but«do  not  adhere,  below  they  se- 
parate a  litue,  so  as  to  leave  a  very  narrow  opening  or  slit  between 
each  ;  the/  are  placed  on  very  short  filaments,  which  stand  so  far 
apart  tha'a  considerable  opening  is  left  between  them  ;  at  the  bot- 
tom of,  md  in  the  very  centre  of  the  flower,  there  are  perceivable 
two  ge-mena,  or  seed-buds,  the  rudiments  of  future  seed-vessels* 
surrounded  by  glandular  substances,  secreting  a  sweet  liquid  ;  on 
the  summit  of  these  germina,  and  betwixt  the  two,  stands  the  stig- 
D2<i,  in  the  form  of  a  little  urn,  the  middle  of  which  is  encircled  by 
a  glandular  ring,  which  secretes  a  viscid  honey-like  substance,  to 
this  part  of  the  stigma  the  Antherse  interiorly  adhere  most  tenaci- 
ously, so  as  to  prevent  their  separation  unless  considerable  force  be. 
applied:  it  is  probable,  that  the  sweet  viscid  substance,  thus  secret- 
ed by  the  stigma,  within  the  Anthers,  is  that  which  the  fly  endea- 
vours to  obtain  ;  and  to  this  end  insinuates  its  trunk,  first  into  the 
lowermost  and  widest  part  of  the  slit,  betwixt  two  of  the  Anther* 
above  described,  pushing  it  of  necessity  upwards :  when  gratified, 
not  having  the  sense  to  place  itself  in  the  same  position  as  that  in 
which  it  stood  when  it  inserted  its  trunk,  and  draw  it  out  in  the 
same  direction  downwards,  unfortunately  for  it,  it  varies  its  posi- 
tion, and  pulling  its  trunk  upwards,  draws  it  into  the  narrow  part 
of  the  slit,  where  it  becomes  closely  wedged  in,  and  the  more  it 
pulls  the  more  securely  is  it  caught,  and  thus  this  heedless  insect, 
as  THOMPSON  calls  it,  terminates  its  existence  in  captivity  most 
miserable. 

Mr.  R.  W.  DARWIN,  of  Elston,  in  England,  asserts  that,  "  when 
a  fly  inserts  its  proboscis  between  these  anthers  to  plunder  the  ho- 
ney, they  converge  closer,  and  with  such  violence  as  to  detain  the 

SL 


442  THE  PLEASURE,  OR 

fly."  Mr.  CURTIS,  author  of  the  Flora  Londinensis,  Scc.'s  of  opi* 
nion,  that  the  anthers  do  not  converge,  but  that  the  flies  at  caught 
in  the  manner  first  described.  This  difference  of  opinionbetween 
two  respectable  authorities,  may  afford  curious  observersthe  op- 
portunity of  spending  some  leisure  hours,  in  ascertainig,  to  a 
certainty,  which  is  right. 

Transplanting  biennial  and  perennial  Flowering  Plants 

If  not  done  in  June,  you  should  now  transplant  from  th«  seed- 
beds, the  various  kinds  of  perennial  and  biennial  seedling  flooring*- 
plants,  as  directed  in  page  416. 

Auriculas^  and  Polyanthuses. 

Examine  your  auriculas  and  polyanthuses  ;  when  dead  leaves* 
at  any  ti'me  appear  upon  the  plants,  let  them  be  iitmediately  pick- 
ed off,  and  suffer  no  weeds  to  grow  in  the  pots. 

Preserve  those  plants  carefully  from  the  mid-day-sun,  which  at 
this  season  would  destroy  them,  particularly  the  auriculas,  and  keep 
the  earth  in  the  pots  always  moderately  moist. 

When  any  of  them  have  furnished  strong  offsets,  *uch  may  be 
taken  off,  in  the  last  week  of  this  month,  and  planted  ir.  small  pots  ; 
for,  about  that  time,  these  plants  begin  to  grow  afresh\and  advan- 
tage ought  to  be  taken  of  that  critical  period.  The  offsets  will 
require  shade  and  water  till  newly  rooted  :  the  latter  must  be 
sparingly  administered  till  the  plants  take,  and  are  in  a  growing 
state,  before  which,  too  much  water  would  cause  the  root,  to  rot  ; 
but,  notwithstanding,  the  earth  must  still  be  kept  a  little  moht. 

The  auricula  and  polyanthus  seedlings  that  were  sown  last  au- 
tumn or  early  in  spring,  if  having  grown  well,  and  of  sufficient 
size,  should,  in  the  last  week  of  this,  or  first  in  August,  be  trans- 
planted into  boxes  or  pots,  as  directed  in  page  340,  and  placed  in 
tjie  shade  to  grow  on  till  the  middle  of  October,  when  they  may  be 
rather  more  exposed  to  the  sun,  and  early  in  November,  remove 
the  pots  or  boxes  into  a  warm  situation,  to  remain,  till  taken  into 
their  winter  quarters. 

Grass  and  Gravel-  Walks. 

The  same  care  and  attention  must  now  be  paid  to  the  grass  and 
gravel*walks,  and  lawns,  as  directed  in  the  preceding  months. 


Edgings. 

edgings  as  were 
erving  the  same  di 
in  page  417 


Such  box  edgings  as  were  not  clipped  in  June,  should  now  be 
dressed,  observing  the  same  directions  in  every  particular  as  given 

Cliji  Hedges. 


Hedges  in  general,  of  every  kind,  should  be  clipped  in  the  early 
part  of  this  month  ;  for  that  purpose,  advantage  ought  to  be  taken 


JULY.]  1     THE  GREEN-HOUSE.  443 


of  moist  or  cload^  weather  to  do  the  work  in  ;  as  hedges  always 
look  better  after  bang  clipped  in  wet  weather,  than  in  dry. 

Another  dressing  of  the  same  kind  towards  the  latter  end  of 
September,  will  keep  them  in  a  neat  condition  the  year  round. 

Ordinary  Attendance. 

The  principal  f]ovrer-borders,  tyeds,  8cc.  must  now  have  more 
than  ordinary  attention  paid  to  the  keeping  of  them  clean,  as  well 
as  the  shrubbery-clumps  and  other  similar  compartments.  Where 
any  'of  the  flowering-shrubs  or  evergreens,  have  grown  rude  or  dis- 
orderly, let  suci  be  trimmed  or  pruned  into  neat  form  ;  that  is,  if 
any  have  produ;ed  strong  and  rambling  shoots,  cut  out,  shorten,  or 
reduce  them  to  a  phasing  regularity. 

Stake  and  tie  u?  the  stems  of  such  flowering  plants,  as  stand  in 
need  of  support,  to  prevent  their  being  borne  down  by  winds  or 
heavy  rains,  Sec. 

Cut  down  the  stems  of  such  fibrous  rooted  plants  as  are  past 
bloom,  except  a  few  of  the  best,  where  the  seeds  are  wanted  :  Those 
have  always  jin  unpleasing  appearance,  and  ought  to  be  removed  as 
soon  as  possble  ;  by  which  means  the  plants,  though  past  flowering, 
will  appear  more  lively  and  decent,  and  the  advancing  bloom  of 
others,  wUl  show  to  greater  advantage. 


THE  GREEN-HOUSE. 

ORANGE;  lemon,  citron,  and  shaddock  trees,  on  which  there 
are  now  set  a  superabundance  of  young  fruit,  should  have  them 
thinned  to  a  reasonable  number  on  each,  in  proportion  to  its 
strength ;  after  which  they  may  be  divested  of  all  flowers  subse- 
quently produced,  especially,  when  wanted  for  domestic  purposes, 
such  as  to  make  orange-flower  water,  &c. 

It  would  be  of  considerable  utility  to  those  trees,  to  have  the  earth 
in  the  top  of  the  tubs  or  pots  now  taken  out,  for  two  or  three  inches 
deep,  and  replaced  with  fresh  compost ;  this,  would  greatly  en* 
courage  their  autumn  growth. 

Projiagating  the  Plants. 

Still  continue  to  progagate  the  various  kinds  of  Green-house 
plants  which  you  wish  to  increase,  by  cuttings,  layers,  suckers^ 
Sec.  as  directed  in  the  preceding  months  ;  most  kinds  will  yet  suc- 
ceed by  cutting  of  the  present  year's  wood,  if  carefully  planted, 


444  THE  GREEN-HOUSE.        /  [JULY. 

/ 

duly  shaded,  and  moderately  watered ;  such  as  Xenrithemums,  Salivi- 
as, Geraniums,  Pelargoniums,  and  Erodiums,  Herwani\ias,  Phlomises, 
Ericas,  Cineraria  lanata,  Camellia  japonica  and  Atjubajaponica,  Coty- 
ledon orbiculata,  Ononis  natrix,  Polygala  bracteolata.  Lavendulas,  An- 
thyllises,Proteas,  &c.&c.  these  kmds,  with  many  6tiers,  will  now  take 
freely,  in  suitable  earth,  without  the  assistance  cf  a  hot-bed.  Let 
the  cuttings  be  taken  from  healthy  plants  ;  they  should  be  from  four 
to  eight  inches  in  length,  and  of  stout  and  robust  growth.  The 
leaves  should  be  stripped  off  more  than  half  way  up,  and  the  cut- 
tings planted  about  two  thirds  of  their  length  into  pots,  garden- 
pans,  or  beds  of  earth,  adopting  for  each  kind  its  favourite  soil ;  then 
give  shade  and  water,  as  directed  on  former  occasion?. 

The  Ericas,  Anthyllises,  and  other  kinds  that  dotiot  root  freely 
in  this  way,  should  have  bell-glasses  placed  ovez  them,  which  will 
greatly  facilitate  their  rooting. 

Continue  to  propagate  the  various  kinds  of  succulent  plants,  be-i 
longing  to  this  department,  as  directed  in  page  395, 

Transplanting  Seedlings  and  Cuttings 

Such  seedlings  of  Green-house  plants,  as  were  rased  from  the 
spring  sowings,  and  that  are  now,  three  inches  hijh,  or  more, 
should  be  transplanted  into  small  pots  separately,  o*  several  into 
large  pots,  and  immediately  watered  ;  they  must  be  kept  duly  shad- 
ed, till  well  taken  with  the  earth,  and  in  a  growing  stite  ;  and  even 
then,  it  will  be  proper  to  place  them  where  they  can  svoicl  the  mid- 
day sun,  for  the  remainder  of  the  season. 

Many  of  the  cuttings  planted  in  spring,  will  be  veil  rooted  by 
this  time,  and  may  now  be  taken  up  with  as  much  earth  as  possible 
about  their  roots,  planted  separately  in  suitable  sized  pots,  and 
shaded  for  eight  or  ten  days  from  the  mid-day  sun  ;  always  observ- 
ing to  keep  the  earth  in  the  pots  moderately  moist  The  gerani- 
ums in  particular,  may  be  taken  up,  when  too  tliick,  and  trans- 
planted, at  any  time  after  the  cuttings  have  grown  four  or  five 
inches. 

Shifting  into  larger  pots* 

You  may  now  shift  such  of  your  plants,  as  require  larger  pots  or 
tubs ;  this  is  the  best  of  the  summer  months  for  that  purpose,  as 
the  greater  number  will  have  made  their  summer  progress,  and  are 
now  rather  at  a  stand,  previous  to  the  commencement  of  their 
new  autumnal  vegetation. 

The  operation  of  shifting,  is  to  be  performed  in  every  respect  as 
directed  in  page  353. 

Such  plants  as  are  now  shifted,  must  be  immediately  watered 
and  removed  into  the  shade  ;  where  they  can  have  free  air  and 
protection  from  the  sun  in  the  heat  of  the  day  ;  there  to  remain  for 
two,  three,  or  four  weeks,  according  to  the  time  the  respective 
kinds  may  take  to  re-establish  themselves, and  get  into  a  fresh  state 
of  growth,  when  they  may  be  replaced  among  the  general  collec- 
.  lion. 


JULY.]  TOE  HOT-HOUSE.  445 


Loosening  and  giving  fresh  earth. 

It  will  be  very  proper  at  this  time  to  examine  the  pets  and  tubs 
in  general ;  and  where  the  earth  is  inclinable  to  bind,  let  the  surface 
be  carefully  loosened  to  a  little  depth,  breaking  the  earth  small  with 
the  hands,  and  at  the  same  time  add  thereto,  if  not  done  in  any  of 
the  preceding  months,  some  fresh  compost  ;  then  level  the  surface 
neatly. 

This  dressing  will  do  the  plants  more  good  than  many  people 
might  imagine  ;  but  in  particular  to  such  as  are  in  small  pots. 

Gathering  and  sowing  Seeds. 

Collect  all  the  different  sorts  of  seeds  as  they  ripen  ;  spread  them 
upon  paper  in  a  dry  shady  place ;  and  when  sufficiently  hardened, 
let  them  be  carefully  preserved  in  their  pods  or  husks,  or  in  paper 
bags,  till  the  proper  season  for  sowing  them. 

The  seeds  of  Geraniums,  Xeranthemums,  and  of  any  other 
quick  growing  kinds  of  Green-house  plants,  may  now  be  sown,  and 
if  properly  attended  to,  will  attain  to  a  neat  size  before  winter. 


THE  HOT-HOUSE.      - 
Pine-Aisles . 

THE  Pine-apples  being  now  arriving  at  maturity,  it  may  not 
be  unacceptable,  to  give  some  account  of  the  different  varieties. 

Of  the  Bromelia  there  have  been  nine  distinct  species  described, 
viz.  the  B.  Ananas.  B.  Pinguin.  B.  Karatas.  B.  lingulata.  B. 
humilis.  B.  Acanga  B.  bracteata.  B.  nudicaulis,  and  the  B. 
panicuhgera.  But  as  the  first  species  is  the  only  one  cultivated  on 
account  of  its  fruit,  I  shall  confine  myself  exclusively  to  it,  at  least 
for  the  present. 

From  the  Bromelia  Ananas,  or  Pine-apple,  as  it  is  called,  on  ac- 
count of  the  resemblance  of  the  shape  of  its  fruit  to  the  cones  of 
some  species  of  pine-tree,  particularly  to  that  of  the  Pinus  pinca^ 
or  stone-pine,  there  arise  six  principal  varieties,  which  have  been 
cultivated  for  their  fruit,  &c.  1.  The  variety  ovata,  or  Queen-pine. 
2.  The  fiyramidalis,  or  Sugar-loaf  Pine.  3.  The  lucida,  or  King- 
Pine.  4.  The  glabra,  or  Smooth  Pine.  5.  The  serotina,  or  Late 
Pine  ;  and  6.  The  -viridis,  or  Green  Pine. 

The  Queen  Pine,  is  the  most  commonly  cultivated,  but  seems 
daily  to  decrease  in  esteem.  Its  flesh  is  of  a  fine  yellow  colour, 
but  in  the  hot  summer  months  it  is  very  aptnot  to  cut  firm  ;  is  lia- 
ble to  crack  in  the  middle,  and  often  contains  an  insipid  watery  juice  ; 


446  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  [JULY. 

but  when  it  ripens  late  in  the  season  it  is  not  so  subject  to  any  of 
these  defects. 

The  Sugar-loaf  pine  is  easily  distinguished  from  all  the  others, 
by  its  leaves  having  purple  stripes  on  their  inside  the  whole  length. 
The  fruit  is  paler  when  ripe  than  the  former,  inclining  to  a  straw- 
colour.  This  was  brought  from  Brazil  to  Jamaica,  where  it  is  es- 
teemed far  beyond  any  other  kind.  But  of  this  there  are  three  va- 
rieties. 1.  The  brown-leaved.  2.  The  green-leaved,  with  purple 
stripes  and  spines  on  the  edges.  3.  The  green-leaved,  with  pur- 
ple stripes  and  smooth  edges.  The  fruit  of  these  is  of  exquisite 
flavour,  filled  with  a  lively  delicious  juice,  and  the  flesh  of  a  yellow 
colour. 

The  King  Pine,  has  grass-green,  smooth  leaves,  and  produces  a 
pretty  large  fruit ;  but  as  its  flesh  is  hard,  stringy,  and  sometimes 
not  well  flavoured,  it  is  not  much  cultivated. 

The  Smooth  Pine,  is  preserved  by  some  persons  for  sake  of  va- 
riety, but  the  fruit  is  of  little  value. 

The  Late  Pine,  is  not  of  much  importance  for  cultivating,  on 
account  of  its  ripening  at  an  untimely  season,  and  therefore  its  des- 
cription is  considered  unnecessary. 

The  Green  Pine,  is  considered  tolerably  good.  The  fruit  if  suf- 
fered to  ripen  well,  is  of  an  olive  colour ;  to  have  it  green,  it 
must  be  cut  before  it  is  ripe,  and  suffered  to  lie  by,  till  fit  for  use. 
Plants  of  this  kind  may  be  procured  from  Barbadoes,  and  Montser- 
rat ;  but  the  fruit  of  the  Sugar-loaf  is  much  to  be  preferred  to  it, 
and  indeed  to  any  other  kind  yet  introduced. 

There  is,  likewise,  the  Surinam,  or  Silver-striped  Pine,  which 
exceeds  in  beauty  the  whole  tribe  of  variegated  plants.  The  leaves 
are  variously  striped  with  a  dark  green  and  delicate  white ;  and 
the  whole  is  tinged  with  a  lively  red,  which  produces  a  contrast 
that  gives  the  plant  a  gay  and  most  beautiful  appearance.  Nor  is 
there  less  beauty  in  its  fruit,  the  protuberances  cf  which  swell 
large,  and,  when  ripe,  are  variously  marbled  with  red,  green,  yellow, 
and  white ;  which,  together  with  the  variegated  crown  on  the  top 
of  the  fruit,  add  a  singularity  and  elegance  to  the  whole,  beyond 
the  power  of  description.  The  fruit  is  tolerably  good,  and  thre- 
fore,  the  plant,  is  doubly  worthy  of  cultivation. 

Many  other  varieties  of  this  fruit  have  arisen  from  seed,  such  as 
the  Black  or  brown  Antigue,  or  Ripley  Fine,  which  is  a  very  good 
fruit.  The  Granada  Pine  with  marbled  leaves  and  very  large  fiuit. 
The  Bog-warp  Pine,  with  broad  green  leaves.  The  Smpoth,  long, 
narrow  leaved  Pine,  and  the  Surinam  Pine  with  gold-striped  leaves ; 
and  some  assert,  that  there  are  varieties  with  rcd-Schhcd  fruit. 

Compost  proper  for  Pine  Plants. 

Ycu  should,  in  the  first  place,  twelve  months  previous  to  the  time 
of  its  being  wanted  for  use,  pare  off  the  sward  or  turf  cf  a  pasture, 
not  more  than  two  inches  deep,  where  the  soil  is  a  strcrijr,  rich 
loam,  and  carry  it  to  some  convenient  place  to  be  piled  together 
for  rotting  ;  observing  to  turn  it  over  once  a  month  at  least,  spread-* 


JULY.]  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  447 

ing  it  so  as  to  expose  a  considerable  surface  to  the  summer  sun,  as 
well  as  to  the  frosts  in  winter  ;  but  in  v/et  weather  it  will  be  proper 
to  gather  it  up  into  a  high  ridge,  to  prevent  its  rich  juices  being 
dissolved  and  carried  away  by  water.  If  a  quantity  of  sheeps  dung 
could  be  collected  fresh  and  mixed  therewith,  in  the  first  instance, 
it  would  greatly  improve  it. 

1.  Having  the  above  prepared,  and  made  fine  with  the  spade,  but 
not  screened  ;   to  three   barrow  fulls  of  it,  add  one  of  vegetable 
mould  of  decayed   Oak-leaves,  and   half  a  barrow  of  coarse  sand, 
observing,  however,  that  if  the  soil  from  which  the  turf  had  been 
taken,  inclined  any  way  to  sand,  that  should  be  now  omitted.     This 
makes  a  proper  compost  for  Crowns,  Suckers,  and  Young  Plants. 

2 .  To  make  a  compost  for  Fruiting  Plants,  use  three  barrows  of 
the  above  reduced  sward,  two  of  vegetable  mould,  one  of  coarse 
sand,  aud  one  fourth  of  a  barrow  of  soot. 

The  above  composts,  should  be  made  some  months  before  want- 
ed ;  and  very  frequently  turned  during  that  time,  that  the  different 
mixtures  may  get  well  and  uniformly  incorporated.  As  to  the 
quantity  of  sand  to  be  added,  you  must  be  governed  by  the  nature 
of  the  soil  from  whence  the  turf  was  taken  ;  for  too  great  a  portion 
of  sand  would  be  injurious,  and  subject  many  of  the  young  plants 
to  go  into  fruit  before  the  proper  period. 

Where  oak-leaves  are  not  used  in  Hot-houses,  or  for  hot-beds, 
&c.  the  vegetable  mould  may  be  made  by  laying  a  quantity  of 
them  together,  as  soon  as  they  fall  from  the  trees,  in  a  heap  suffi- 
ciently large  to  ferment.  They  should  be  covered  at  first,  for 
some  time,  to  prevent  the  upper-leaves  from  being  blown  away  ; 
the  heap  must  afterwards  be  frequently  turned,  and  kept  clean  from 
weeds  ;  the  leaves  will  be  two  years  before  they  are  sufficiently  re- 
duced to  be  fit  for  use. 

Keep  the  different  heaps  of  compost  at  all  times  free  from  weeds, 
turn  them  frequently,  and  round  them  up  in  rainy  seasons;  but 
they  should  be  spread  out  in  continued  frosts,  and  in  fine  weather. 

Raising  the.  Pines  by  Crowns. 

The  crown  is  perfected  at  the  time  when  the  Pine-apple  is  quite 
yellow  ;  therefore  the  crowns  of  such  fruit,  may  be  planted  in  two 
or  three  days  after  being  taken  off:  but  if  the  fruit  be  cut  green,  as 
is  practised  by  somer  persons  with  the  Queen-pine ;  or  if  only  the 
top  of  the  fruit  be  green  when  cut,  as  is  the  case  frequently  with 
the  sugar-loaf  kinds,  even  when  the  principal  part  is  thoroughly 
ripened,  then  it  will  be  necessary  to  let  the  crowns  of  such  fruit  lie 
five,  six,  or  seven  days  after  they  are  taken  off,  in  a  shady  part  of 
the  Hot-house,  in  order  that  the  wounds  should  dry,  and  particu- 
larly to  give  them  that  degree  of  maturity  to  which  nature  was  not 
allowed  to  conduct  them. 

The  crowns  may  then  be  planted  in  small  pots  and  plunged  into 
the  tan-pit,  where  they  will  soon  strike  root,  and  get  into  a  growing 
state.  But  before  the  crowns  are  planted,  their  lower  or  bottom 
leaves  should  be  cut  off  close  with  a  knife  or  pair  of  scissars,  which 


448  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  [JULY! 


cause  them  to  decay  much  sooner,  and  make   room  for  the 
roots  to  be  produced  with  the  greater  ease. 

The  crowns  will  require  but  very  little  water,  till  they  have  taken 
root,  and  are  in  a  growing  state  ;  when,  it  may  be  administered 
more  freely,  but  always  with  a  sparing  hand. 

Raising  the  Pine  by  Suckers. 

As  the  fruit  of  the  Pine-apple  is  the  principal  object,  and  sole 
reward  of  the  great  expence  attendant  on  its  management,  few  per- 
sons choose  to  permit  the  suckers  to  remain  on  the  plants  till  they 
grow  very  large,  as  they  would  injure  the  fruit,  and  prevent  its 
sweelling  ;  they  are,  therefore,  generally  stopped  in  growth,  or 
taken  off,  as  soon  as  it  can  be  done  with  safety  ;  but  when  a  stock 
of  plants  is  the  object,  the  additional  advantage  which  might  be 
gained  in  the  fruit  is  given  up,  or  at  least  of  as  many  as  will  pro- 
duce the  number  of  suckers  required,  in  order  to  encourage  their 
growth,  and  are  permitted  to  remain  on  the  old  stocks,  or  plants, 
even  for  some  time  after  the  fruit  is  cut.  In  this  situation  the 
suckers  will  grow  very  large,  provided  the  stools  are  plentifully 
supplied  with  water. 

The  suckers  should  not  be  taken  from  the  plants,  till  they  are 
grown  to  the  length  of  about  twelve  inches,  when  their  bottoms 
will  be  hard,  woody,  and  foil  of  round  knobs,  which  are  the  rudi- 
ments of  the  roots. 

In  taking  off  each  sucker,  move  it  two  or  three  times  backward 
and  forward,  in  a  side-way  direction,  and  it  will  come  out  with  its 
bottom  entire,  which  should  be  cut  smooth  aud  deprived  of  any  rag  - 
g-edness. 

Place  these  in  a  shady  part  of  the  riot-house,  for  two  or  three 
days,  and  then  plant  them  in  small  sized  pots,  just  so  deep  as  to 
keep  them  fast  in  the  earth;  after  which  they  are  to  be  treated  as 
directed  for  the  crowns.  The  proper  size  of  the  pots  to  plant  full- 
grown  crowns  and  suckers  in,  is  six  inches  diameter  in  top,  and  five 
and  a  half  deep. 

Care  of  th  e  Fruiting  Pines. 

The  Fruiting-Pines  must  now  have  abundance  of  air,  which  adds 
much  to  the  flavour  of  the  fruit  ;  but  though  the  heat  of  the  day 
at  this  season,  is  very  intense,  yet,  when  north-westerly  winds 
prevail,  the  nights  sometimes  happen,  though  not  frequently,  to  be 
rather  cold  for  the  fruiting-plants  ;  in  which  case,  it  may  be  prudent 
to  close  the  lights  at  night,  taking  care  to  slide  them  open  early 
in  the  morning  ;  this,  however,  must  be  governed  by  circumstan- 
ces, and  by  the  heat  of  the  bark-pit,  which,  if  any  way  brisk,  will 
render  it  the  more  necessary  to  give  plenty  of  air  at  all  times. 

As  the  Pine-apples  come  to  maturity,  care  should  be  taken  to 
cut  them  off  when  in  due  perfection,  and  before  they  become  too 
ripe;  generally  cutting  them  in  a  morning,  each,  with  several  in- 
ches of  the  stalk,  and  with  the  crown  of  leaves  at  top,  till  served 
to  the  table. 


JULY.]  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  449 

When  the  fruit  is  eaten,  it  will  be  proper  to  preserve  the  cronws, 
and  any  young  suckers  growing  round  at  the  base  ;*  particularly  if 
wanted  for  increase. 

Shifting  the  Succession  Pines. 

The  Pine  plants  which  are  to  fruit  in  the  ensuing  season,  should 
be  shifted,  either  in  the  last  week  of  this  month,  or  the  first  in  Au- 
gust, into  full  sized  pots,  of  about  eleven  or  twelve  inches  dia- 
meter at  top,  and  ten  deep  ;  by  doing  this  so  early  in  the  year, 
they  will  have  time  to  make  good  roots  before  spring  ;  for  otherwise 
they  seldom  produce  very  large  fruit;. 

Having  the  pots  and  new  compost  ready,  take  the  plants  out  of 
the  bark -bed,  and  shift  them  in  the  following  method. 

First,  place  a  shell  in  the  bottom  of  the  new  pot,  and  put  in  two 
inches  deep  of  fresh  compost :  then  turn  the  plant  out  of  the  old 
pot  with  the  ball  entire,  and  place  it  immediately  into  the  new  ; 
fill  up  round  the  ball  with  more  of  the  compost,  and  let  the  top 
thereof  be  covered  with  it  an  inch  deep. 

In  this  manner,  let  the  whole  be  shifted,  and  immediately  wa- 
tered ;  then  plunge  them  again  into  the  bark-bed. 

Previous  to  plunging  the  pots,  the  bark-bed  must  first  be  stirred 
up  to  the  bottom,  to  revive  the  declining  heat ;  observing,  at  the 
same  time,  to  add  about  one  third,  or  at  least  one  fourth,  of  new  tan 
thereto,  if  the  old  is  much  wasted,  become  earthy,  or  not  likely 
to  produce  a  sufficient  degree  of  bottom  heat,  to  promote  the  fresh 
rooting  and  growth  of  the  plants. 

Care  of  the  various  Hot-House  Plants. 

The  general  care  and  propagation  of  the  various  exotics  of  the 
Hot-house  department,  are  the  same  now,  as  directed  in  May,  and 
June,  and  therefore,  unnecessary  to  be  repeated  ;  but  it  would  be 
very  proper,  at  this  time,  to  refresh  the  earth  in  the  top  of  the  pots 
or  tubs,  as  directed  in  page  445,  and  also  to  shift  such  of  the  plants 
as  require  it.  The  Hibiscus  Rosa  Sinensis,  Vinca  rosea,  Plume- 
ria  rubra,  Allamanda  cathartica,  Asclepias  curassavica,  Lantanas, 
Begonias,  &c.  may  now  be  easily  propagated  by  cuttings  ;  and 
where  an  increase  of  the  various  kinds  is  wanted,  that  business 
ought  not  to  be  delayed  to  a  later  period,  that  the  cuttings  may  have 
time  to  become  well  rooted  before  winter  ;  nor  should  you  despair 
of  being  able  to  propagate,  any  kind  of  tree  or  shrub  by  cuttings ; 
for,  with  due  care,  there  are  few  but  may  be  increased  that  way, 
especially,  with  the  assistance  of  bell-glasses,  and  a  suitable  bottom 
heat. 

*  The  Brown  Antigua,  the  King,  and  the  Sugar-loaf  kinds,  commonly  pro- 
duce suckers  at  the  top  of  the  stem,  immediately  under  the  fruit ;  but  these, 
are  generally  small,  and  of  much  less  value,  than  those  produced  about  the 
surface  of  the  earth. 

3M 


450  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  [JULY, 


The  Moving  Plant,  or  Sensitive  Hedysarum. 

The  Hedysarum  gyrans,  or  Moving  plant,  that  extraordinary 
phenomenon  of  the  Hot-house  department,  is  peculiarly  worthy 
the  attention  of  every  curious  observer.  Mr.  AIT  ON  in  his  Hor- 
tus  KcwcnsiS)  describes  it  as  a  biennial  plant,  and  SWARTZ,  as  an 
annual ;  but  it  has  survived  several  years  in  that  inestimable  collec- 
tion, the  property  of  WM.  HAMILTON,  Esq.  of  the  Woodlands^  near 
Philadelphia,  whose  variety  of  rare  plants  surpass,  by  far,  any  other 
on  this  side  the  Atlantic,  and  perhaps,  any  private  collection  in 
Europe. 

The  singular  motion  with  which  the  lateral  leaflets  or  appendicles 
of  this  plant  are  endued,  is  thus  described  in  Linnseus's  supple- 
ment. 

"  This  is  a  wonderful  plant  on  account  of  its  voluntary  motion, 
which  is  not  occasioned  by  any  touch,  irritation,  or  movement  in 
the  air,  as  in  the  Mimosa,  Oxalis,  and  Dionsea  ;  nor  is  it  so  evanes- 
cent as  in  Amorpha.  No  sooner  had  the  plants  raised  from  seed, 
acquired  their  ternate  leaves,  than  they  begun  to  be  in  motion  this 
way  and  that ;  this  movement  did  not  cease  during  the  whole 
course  of  their  vegetation,  nor  were  they  observant  of  any  time, 
order  or  direction  ;  one  leaflet  frequently  revolved,  whilst  the  other  on 
the  same  petiole  was  quiescent ;  sometimes  a  few  leaflets  only  were 
in  motion,  then  almost  all  of  them  would  be  in  movement  at  once  : 
the  whole  plant  was  very  seldom  agitated,  and  that  only  during  the 
first  year.  It  continued,  to  move  in  the  stove  during  the  second 
year  of  its  growth,  and  was  not  at  rest  even  in  winter." 

It  is  difficult  to  account  for  this  motion,  which  does  not  seem  to 
depend  on  any  external  cause,  and  which  we  are  not  able  to  excite  by 
any  art.  It  is  not  the  action  of  the  sun's  rays,  for  this  plant  is  fond 
of  shade,  and  the  leaves  revolve  on  rainy  days,  as  well  as  during 
the  night :  exposed  to  too  much  wind  or  sun,  it  is  quiet.  "  Per- 
haps," says  Linnaeus,  "  there  may  be  some  part  in  vegetables,  as 
in  animals,  where  the  cause  of  motion  resides. 

This  plant  is  ^  native  of  Bengal,  near  the  Ganges  ;  and  is  call- 
ed there  Chundali  Borrum  :  It  grows  luxuriantly  in  the  gardens  in 
Jamaica  ;  and  is  easily  propagated  by  sowing  the  seed  in  March, 
and  forwarding  it  in  a  due  temperature  of  heat. 

Dr.  Darwin  says,  "  Its  leaves  are  continually  in  spontaneous 
motion  ;  some  rising  and  others  falling;  and  others  whirling  circu- 
larly by  twisting  their  stems  ;  this  spontaneous  movement  of  the 
leaves,  when  the  air  is  quite  still  and  very  warm,  seems  to  be  ne- 
cessary to  the  plant,  as  perpetual  respiration  is  to  animal  life." 


AUG.]  451 


AUGUST. 


WORK  TO  BE  DONE  IN  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN. 


Savoy s y  Coletvorts,  and  Borecole. 

IN  the  first  week  of  this  month,  finish  planting  your  savoys ; 
they  will  not,  at  this  season,  require  a  greater  distance  than  two 
feet  every  way.  This  plantation  will  be  tolerably  well  cabbaged  in 
November,  and  may,  with  a  little  care,  be  preserved  in  fine  con- 
dition all  winter. 

The  early  York,  Battersea  and  sugar-loaf  plants,  arising  from 
seed  sown  last  month,  should  now  be  planted  out  for  autumn  cole- 
worts,  they  will  yet  form  nice  heads ;  and  some  more,  of  the  same 
kinds,  should  be  sown  in  the  first  week  of  this  month,  from  which 
you  will  have  delicious  hearts  late  in  October,  Sec.  In  the  southern 
states,  where  the  plants  can  stand  out  all  winter,  this  will  be  a  very 
useful  practice.  Plant  also,  your  last  crop  of  borecole. 

Spinach. 

Now  prepare  some  ground,  and  sow  a  good  crop  of  spinach  ;  that 
sown  in  the  first  week  of  the  month,  will  be  fit  for  use,  in  Septem- 
ber, and  what  you  sow  in  the  second,  will  be  in  fine  condition  in 
October. 

In  the  last  week  of  the  month,  you  should  sow  a  principal  crop 
of  the  prickly  seeded  Spinach,  for  early  spring  use ;  this  ought  to 
be  sown  on  dry  gravelly  ground,  for  on  such  it  will  stand  the  winter 
much  better  than  on  any  other.  A  second  sowing  will,  however, 
be  necessary,  for  the  same  purpose  in  the  first  week  of  Septem- 
ber ;  as  it  will  always  be  proper  to  have  a  double  chance.  With 
either,  or  both  of  these  sowings,  you  may  throw  in  a  thin  scattering 
of  brown  Dutch  or  cabbage  lettuce,  and  if  the  winter  is  any  way 
mild,  you  will  have  good  early  plants  in  spring,  which  you  are  then 
to  take  up  and  transplant  into  beds  for  heading. 

»  Sowing  Radishes. 

In  the  early  part  of  this  month,  you  should  sow  a  sufficient  sup- 
ply, of  short-top  and  salmon  radishes,  also,  some  of  the  white  Na- 
ples and  turnep-rooted  kinds  :  these  will  be  fit  for  the  table  in  Sep- 
tember. About  the  middle  of  the  month,  you  ought  to  sow  a  se- 
cond crop  to  come  into  use  in  October. 

A  full  crop  of  the  black  and  white  Spanish,  or  winter  radishes, 
may  be  sown  at  either,  or  both  of  the  above  periods,  for  fall  and 
winter  use. 


452  THE  KITCHEN -GARDEN.  [AUG. 


Asparagus. 

The  plantations  of  asparagus  should  now  be  kept  perfectly  clear 
from  weeds  ;  but  particularly  those  which  were  planted  last  spring  ; 
and  likewise,  the  seedling  beds,  but  this  must  be  done  by  a  very 
careful  hand  weeding. 

Turners. 

The  first  week  in  this  month,  is  a  very  principal  time  for  sowing 
your  general  crops  of  turaep,  for  autumn  and  winter  use,  whether 
in  the  field  or  garden  ;  you  may  continue,  in  the  middle  states,  to 
sow,  as  opportunity  offers,  or  as  the  season  proves  favourable,  till 
the  middle  of  the  month,  after  which,  it  will  be  too  late  to  expect 
any  tolerable  produce.  In  the  eastern  states,  the  last  sowing  ought 
to  be  performed  in  the  first  week  of  this  month,  and  the  earlier  in 
that,  the  better.  If  any  be  sown  after  the  above  periods,  it  ought 
to  be  of  the  early  Dutch  kind  ;  this  will  arrive  at  maturity,  at  an 
earlier  period  than  any  other  sort.  In  the  southern  states,  turneps 
may  be  sown  somewhat  later.  For  general  directions,  see  page 
424,  Sec. 

Celery. 

Plant  now  a  full  crop  of  late  celery ;  let  this  be  done  as  early  in 
the  month  as  possible,  and  as  directed  in  pages  398,  and  423. 

Continue  to  earth  up  your  advancing  crops  of  celery,  once  every 
ten  or  fourteen  days ;  observing  to  do  this  in  a  dry  day,  and  pre- 
viously to  break  the  earth  fine  with  the  spade  ;  take  care  to  gather 
up  all  the  leaves  neatly,  and  not  to  bury  the  hearts  of  the  plants. 

Artichokes. 

The  late  spring  plantations  of  artichokes  should  be  now  looked 
over,  and  treated  as  directed  for  the  older  plants,  in  page  428. 

Small  Sallading. 

Where  a  constant  supply  of  smairsallading  is  wanted,  such  as  let- 
tuce, cresses,  radish,  rape  and  mustard,  they  should  now  be  sown 
every  eight  or  ten  days,  on  a  shady  border,  and  frequently  watered, 
both  before  and  after  coming  up. 

Solving  Peas. 

You  may  any  time  between  the  first  and  fifteenth  of  this  month, 
or  at  each  period,  sow  a  crop  of  the  Early-frame,  Golden,  or 
Charlton  hotspur  peas  :  these,  should  the  season  prove  favourable, 
will  afford  you  tolerable  crops  in  September.  If  the  weather  be 
dry,  soak  the  peas,  arid  water  the  drills,  as  directed  in  page  429. 


AUG.]  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  453 


Planting  Kidney  Beans. 

At  any  time  before  the  middle  of  the  month,  you  may  plant  a 
crop  of  the  early  cream-coloured,  early  yellow,  or  early  speckled 
dwarf  kidney-beans  ;  they  will  yet  succeed  very  well  ;  but  should 
the  ground  and  weather,  be  dry  at  the  time,  the  drills  ought  to  be 
watered,  and  the  beans  soaked  in  soft  water,  four  or  five  hours  be- 
fore planting. 

Solving  and  transplanting  Lettuces. 

Early  in  the  month,  sow  a  good  supply  of  lettuces  for  fall  use  ; 
the  kinds  proper  to  sow  now,  are  the  grand  admiral,  brown  Dutch, 
Imperial,  large  royal,  white  Cos,  Mogul,  and  New-Zealand  lettu- 
ces ;  all  these  kinds  succeed  well  at  this  season.  Sow  them  as  di- 
rected in  the  former  months.  A  succession  crop  should,  also,  be 
sown  about  the  middle  of  the  month. 

In  the  last  week  of  this  month,  sow  some  of  the  brown  Dutch 
and  hardy  green  cabbage  lettuce,  and,  also,  some  of  the  grand  ad- 
miral, to  transplant  into  frames  and  on  warm  borders,  in  October, 
for  winter  and  spring  use  ;  for  the  method  of  protecting  them  from 
frost,  see  November. 

Transplant  from  the  seed-beds,  such  of  your  advancing  young 
crops  of  lettuces,  as  are  grown  to  a  sufficient  size  ;  let  this  be  done 
as  directed  in  the  preceding  months,  and,  if  possible,  in  moist  or 
cloudy  weather  ;  give  them  a  plentiful  watering,  when  planted ; 
and  repeat  it  frequently,  if  necessary.  Be  particular  always  to  sow  and 
plant  your  lettuces  in  an  open  situation,  and  not  to  suffer  them  to 
be  drawn  up,  or  to  remain  too  long  in  the  seed-beds ;  otherwise, 
they  will  never  form  good  heads. 

Endive. 

Tie  up  your  Endive,  which  is  full  grown,  or  cover  them  with 
boards,  or  tiles,  to  blanch  ;  this  must  be  performed  when  the  leaves 
are  very  dry,  otherwise  the  plants  will  rot.  Select  the  large  and 
full-hearted  plants,  and  with  bass,  or  other  strings,  or  with  small 
osier  twigs,  tie  them  a  little  above  the  middle,  not  too  tight,  previ- 
ously gathering  up  the  leaves  regularly  in  tke  hand. 

Transplant,  agreeably  to  the  directions  given  in  page  422,  such 
young  endive  as  is  now  of  a  proper  size,  and  water  it  immediately, 
which  repeat,  occasionally,  till  the  plants  begin  to  grow  freely.  These 
plants  must  be  set  in  an  open  situation,  and  by  no  means  near  any 
kind  of  shade  whatever. 

In  the  early  part  of  this  month,  sow  a  full  crop  of  endive,  for 
late  autumn  and  winter  use ;  the  green  curled  sort,  is  by  much, 
the  most  preferable  for  this  sowing,  as  being  more  hardy,  and, 
keeping  better,  than  any  other  kind.  It  would  be  proper  to  sow 
some  more  of  the  same  sort,  about  the  middle  of  the  month  ;  for 


454  *  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  [AUG. 

these,  provided  they  have  time  to  grow  to  a  proper  size,  will  keep 
better  than  those  which  were  sown  earlier. 

Cardoons,  and  Finochio. 

The  cardoons  which  were  planted  in  June,  will  now  be  arrived  at 
some  considerable,  height  ;  so  that  you  may  begin  to  tie  up  some 
for  blanching :  bind  the  stalks  round,  rather  loosely,  as  practised 
with  endive,  and  draw  the  earth' up  to  their  stems,  as  you  would  to 
celery :  repeat  this  earthing,  from  time  to  time,  as  they  advance 
in  growth,  till  whitened  to  a  sufficient  height. 

Earth  up  Finochio,  which  is  full  grown,  in.  order  to  blanch,  and 
render  it  fit  for  use. 

Melons  and  Cucumbers. 

Your  crops  of  melons  and  cucumbers,  whether  in  an  advancing, 
or  fruiting  state,  should  be  kept  very  clean,  which  will  much  im- 
prove the  flavour,  and  encourage  the  growth  of  the  fruit.  If  the 
•weather  proves  very  dry,  a  gentle  watering,  now  and  then,  given 
in  the  evening,  will  be  of  considerable  service  to  the  late  crops,  but 
more  particularly  to  the  cucumbers. 

Care  of  the  general  Crojis. 

All  your  crops  should  be  kept  free  from  weeds,  using  the  hoe, 
where  it  can  be  done  with  safety,  and  where  not,  they  must  be  care- 
fully hand-wed.  Earth  up  your  advancing  crops  of  cabbages,  peas, 
beans,  and  all  others,  that  require  that  treatment.  Water  all  new 
plantations,  and  such  young  advancing  seedlings  as  may  be  impro- 
ved thereby.  Pull  up  the  haulm  and  stalks  of  peas,  beans,  and 
cabbages,  Sec.  which  have  done  bearing,  and  carry  them  out  of  the 
garden,  as  well  as  all  weeds,  hoed  or  picked  up. 

Herbs. 

Cut  such  herbs  as  are  now  in  flower,  to  distil,  or  to  dry  for  winter 
use,  always  observing  todo  it  when  they  are  dry,  and  spread  them 
in  a  dry,  shady  place  ;  for  if  they  are  dried  in  the  sun,  they  will 
shrink  up,  turn  black,  and  be  of  little  value. 

You  may  now,  if  omitted  in  spring,  or  in  the  preceding  months, 
plant  slips  of  sage,  rue,  lavender,  mastich,  thyme,  hyssop,  and 
winter  savory,  Sec.  but  these  will  not  be  near  so  strong,  nor  so  ca- 
pable of  resisting  the  seventy  of  the  winter,  as  those  planted  at  an 
earlier  period. 

Cut  down  the  decayed  flower-stems  of  any  kinds  that  appear  un- 
sightly ;  and  at  the  same  time  it  will  be  proper  to  shorten  all  the 
straggling  young  branches,  in  order  to  keep  the  plants  in  due  com- 
pass ;  which,  will  cause  them  to  produce  fresh  shoots,  and  nsake 
the  plants  appear  neat,  during  the  remainder  of  the  season.  This 
should  be  done,  if  possible,  in  moist  or  cloudy  weather. 


AUG.]  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  455 


Corn-SaUad. 

The  Valeriana  Locusta,  variety  olitoria,  grows  commonly  in  the 
cornfields,  in  many  parts  of  Europe ;  hence,  it  is  called  corn- 
sallad  ;  and  from  its  being  sufficiently  hardy  to  stand  the  winter, 
and  of  early  growth  in  spring,  has  acquired  the  appellation  of 
Lamb's-lettuce,  from  its  affording  them  an  early  pasturage. 

This  is  an  annual  plant,  and  is  cultivated  as  an  esculent  herb  in 
sallads,  for  winter  and  early  spring  use.  It  should  be  sown  in  the 
middle  states,  in  the  last  week  of  this  month,  or  first  in  September, 
on  a  dry  soil  and  open  situation,  and  raked  in  ;  the  plants  will  come 
up  soon  after,  and  should  be  thinned  to  two  or  three  inches  asun- 
der ;  they  are  used  during  the  winter  and  early  spring  months,  in 
composition  with  lettuce  and  other  sallad  herbs,  and  as  a  substitute 
for  these,  where  deficient. 

Winter  Cresses. 

The  Erysimum  Barbarea,  or  winter  cress,  is  used  for  the  same 
purpose,  sown  at  the  same  time,  and  treated  in  like  manner,  as  di- 
rected above,  for  corn-sallad.  This  plant  is  by  the  market-garden- 
ers, about  Philadelphia,  called  Scurvy-grass,  to  which  it  is  by  no 
means  allied  ;  the  latter  being  the  Cochlearia  officinalis  of  Lin,  which 
has  rather  a  disagreeable  smell,  and  a  warm,  bitter  taste,  by  no 
means  palatable  as  a  sallad.  The  winter  cresses,  if  sown  in  the  last 
week  of  this  month,  or  first  in  September,  on  a  dry  soil,  and  warm 
exposure,  will  afford  an  early  sallad  in  spring,  very  pleasing  to 
some  palates,  and  perfectly  resembling,  in  taste  and  flavour,  and 
somewhat  in  appearance,  the  Sisymbrium  nasturtium,  or  water-cress, 

Lima  and  Carolina  Beans. 

Hoe  and  clean  between  the  hills,  or  rows,  of  Lima  and  Carolina 
beans,  and  cut  off  any  runners  that  are  found  to  trail  on  the  surface 
of  the  ground  ;  which  only  tend  to  rob  the  bearing  vines. 

Southern  States. 

In  the  southern  states,  particularly  the  Carolinas  and  Georgia, 
this  month  being  the  commencement  of  their  rainy  season,  it  is 
common  to  sow  cauliflowersr  cabbage,  carrot,  parsnep,  onion,  leek, 
and  endive ;  and  in  short,  the  general  variety  of  seeds  that  are  sown 
in  the  middle  states,  in  the  months  of  March  and  April.  These 
kinds  arrive  there,  at  a  tolerable  degree  of  perfection,  before  their 
winter  sets  in,  which  is  so  very  mild,  as  scarcely  to  injure  any  of 
their  esculent  crops  ;  and  such  of  them  as  do  not  come  to  maturity 
before  winter,  attain  it  early  in  spring. 


456  THE  ORCHARD.  [AUG. 


Dung-hills  and  Weed-heafis. 

The  dung-hills  should,  during  the  summer  months,  be  kept  free 
from  weeds ;  for  if  the  seeds  of  such  are  permitted  to  ripen  and 
fall,  the  dung  when  carried  into  the  garden  will  poison  the  whole 
ground.  The  manure  produced  by  the  heaps  of  weeds  taken  out 
of  the  garden,  should  not  be  introduced  therein  again,  until  it  is 
three  or  four  years  old,  lest  the  seeds  which  happened  to  ripen> 
should  stock  the  ground  afresh. 


THE  FRUIT-GARDEN. 

THE  care  of  your  wall  and  espalier  fruit-trees,  Sec.  being  the 
same  in  this  month  as  directed  in  the  former,  page  430,  I  refer  you 
thereto,  to  avoid  repetition. 

Should  any  of  the  shoots  be  displaced  by  winds  or  other  accidents, 
let  them  be  immediately  made  fast  again,  in  a  secure  and  neat 
manner. 

fig  Trees » 

The  wall  and  espalier  fig-trees  will  now  be  ripening  their  fruit ; 
they  should  be  kept  neatly  trained,  but  the  knife  must  not  be  used, 
except  to  the  fore-right  and  other  irregular  productions  ;  as  it  is 
from  the  young  shoots  of  this  seasons'  growth,  that  you  are  to  ex- 
pect fruit  next  year  ;  and  these  bearing  principally  towards  their 
extremities,  ought  not  to  be  shortened.  Lay  in  the  shoots  regu- 
larly, not  across  one  another,  and  let  them  be  well  secured,  for  the 
wind  and  rain  have  great  power  over  them,  on  account  of  their 
broad  leaves. 

Budding. 

For  the  budding  necessary  to  be  done  in  this  month,  see  the 
Nursery  department. 


THE  ORCHARD. 

SUCH  of  your  standard  peach,  and  other  trees,  as  are  over- 
burdened with  fruit,  and  likely  to  break  down,  should  be  supported 
with  substantial  stakes  ;  to  which,  the  pending  branches  or^ht  to 
be  bound  by  strong  hay -bands,  taking  care  to  place  part  thereof 


AUG.]  THE  NURSERY.  457 

between  each  stake  and  the  branch,  lest  the  bark  should  be  injured  : 
these  supports  are  to  be  taken  away,  as  soon  as  the  fruit  are  off. 
See  the  article  Orchard,  in  page  431  ;  what  is  there  directed,  is 
very  applicable  at  this  time. 


THE  VINEYARD. 


KEEP  your  vines  in  a  neat  regular  order,  trained  up  and  tied 
to  the  poles,  and  suffer  none  to  trail  upon  the  ground  ;  by  this 
means  the  influence  of  the  sun  and  free  air  will  be  admitted  to  the 
fruit,  which  are  essentially  necessary  to  its  timely  maturity. 

You  should  now  be  very  particular  in  keeping  the  ground  between 
the  vines  free  from  weeds  ;  for  at  this  time  a  clean  surface  answers, 
in  a  great  degree,  to  reflect  the  suns'  heat  upon  the  vines  and  fruit, 
which  will  cause  them  to  ripen  soon,  and  acquire  an  improved  rich- 
ness of  taste  and  flavour :  and  besides,  neither  the  vines  nor  fruit 
will  be  so  subject  to  contract  mildew,  as  if  the  vapours  and  damps 
were  confined  round  them  by  weeds,  or  by  their  own  branches  laying 
trailing  about.  Some  of  the  early  sorts  of  grapes  will  begin  to  ri- 
pen about  the  end  of  this  month,  but  the  general  vintage  may  be 
expected,  some  time  in  September,  early  or  late  according  to  the 
season. 

Continue  to  divest  the  main  shoots  of  all  young  side  productions, 
but  be  careful  not  to  pull  off  or  injure  the  leaves.  Such  fruit  bear- 
ing branches  as  were  topped,  ought  to  be  likewise  divested  of  young 
shoots  as  they  are  produced,  at  least  of  the  greater  number. 


THE  NURSERY. 

Budding. 

THIS  is  the  proper  season  for  budding  or  inoculating  peach- 
es, nectarines,  almonds,  apples  and  pears  ;  also  apricots  on  peach 
or  almond  stocks  ;  but  when  the  apricot  is  to  be  worked  on  the 
plum,  it  ought  to  be  done  in  July. 

Cherries,  plums,  qr/kny  other  fruit-trees,  may  also  be  budded  in 
this  month,  if  the  bark  parts  freely  from  the  stock.  Pears  ought 
to  be  inoculated  in  the  early  part  of  the  month,  or  while  the  sap 
flows  freely  ;  but  the  peach,  nectarine,  almond  and  apple,  will  suc- 

SN 


458  THE  NURSERY.  [AUO 

ceed  any  time  between  the  first  of  August  and  twentieth  of  Sep- 
tember, provided  that  the  stocks  are  young  and  vigorous. 

You  may  now  inoculate  all  such  curious  trees  and  shrubs,  as  you 
wish  to  propagate  in  that  way  :  there  are  very  few  but  will  succeed 
at  this  time,  if  worked  on  good  and  suitable  stocks  ;  but  when  you 
find  the  bark  not  to  part  or  rise  freely,  it  will  be  almost  in  vain  to 
attempt  the  work.  Many  kinds  now  take  a  second  growth,  and 
when  that  is  perceivable,  it  will  be  a  very  proper  time  to  inoculate 
them.  For  general  instructions  on  this  subject,  see  page  433. 

New  Budded  Trees. 

You  should  now  look  carefully  over  the  stocks  which  were  bud- 
ded in  July,  and,  in  three  weeks,  or  at  most  a  month  after  their  being 
worked,  loosen  the  bandages,  lest  the  buds  should  be  pinched  there- 
by ;  and  where  there  are  any  shoots  produced  below  the  buds,  they* 
should  be  rubbed  off.  You  ougl.t,  also,  to  examine  the  trees  which 
were  budded  the  former  year,  or  grafted  in  the  spring,  and  cut  off 
all  the  shoots  that  are  produced  beneath  the  inoculations  or  grafts; 
for  if  these  are  permitted  to  grow,  they  will  starve  the  proper 
shoots. 

Preserving  the  Stones  of  Fruits. 

Preserve  peach,  plum,  cherry,  and  apricot  stones,  Sec.  to  sow  for 
raising  stocks  to  bud  and  graft  on.  These  may  either  be  sown  im- 
mediately, or  preserved  till  October  or  any  of  the  following  months, 
in  common  garden  earth  or  moist  sand  ;  but  it  will  be  necessary  to 
embrace  the  first  opportunity  in  spring,  if  not  before,  to  sow  them 
before  the  stones  open  and  the  radicles  begin  to  shoot,  otherwise  a 
great  number  of  these  would  be  injured  in  the  act  of  sowing.  You 
may  mix  the  stones  with  either  earth  or  sand,  which,  put  into  gar- 
den pots  or  boxes,  and  plunge  these  to  their  edges,  and  no  deeper, 
in  some  dry  border,  till  the  time  of  sowing.  Every  day  that  they 
are  kept  out  of  the  ground  is  an  injury  to  them,  and  if  preserved 
in  a  dry  state  till  spring,  very  few  will  vegetate  for  a  year  after,  and 
the  far  greater  number  not  at  all. 

Weed  and  water  Seedting*)  &c. 

The  seedling  trees  and  shrubs  of  all  kinds  must  now  be  kept  per- 
fectly clean  from  weeds;  for  these,  if  permitted  to  grow  among 
the  young  plants,  vcriild  totally  ruin  them. 

In  dry  vteather  )ou  must  btr  careful  to  give  frequent  waterings  to 
the  seedling  plants,  whether  in  beds,  boxes,  or  pots,  according  to 
their  respective  necessities. 

Keep  the  ground  between  the  rows  of  trees  well  hoed,  and 
train  up  the  various  sorts  of  forest-trees  and  shrubs  for  the  several 
purposes  they  are  designed  ;  but  do  not  trim  the  stems  of  standard 
trees  too  close,  for  it  is  necessary  to  leave  some  small  shoots  to 
detain  the  sap», for  the  purpose  cf  strengthening  those  parts. 


AUG.]  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  459 


•Preparing  Ground  for  Autumn  Planting. 

Towards  the  end  of  this  month  you  should  beg-in  to  clear  and 
trench  the  vacant  quarters,  in  which  you  intend  to  plant  fruit-stocks, 
or  trees  or  shrubs  of  any  kind,  in  October  or  November,  Sec.  that 
the  rain  may  soak  and  mellow  the  ground,  before  the  season  of 
planting;  and  if  the  land  be  of  a  stiff  nature,  the  laying  of  it  up 
in  high  sloping  ridges,  by  exposing  more  surface  to  the  sun,  rain, 
and  dews  will  greatly  improve  it,  and  it  can  be  the  more  expexli- 
tiously  levelled  down,  and  rendered  in  a  fit  condition  for  planting, 
when  necessary. 


THE  PLEASURE,  OR  FLOWER-GARDEN. 

Carnations  and  Pinks. 

TRANSPLANT  the  layers  and  pipings  of  carnations  and 
pinks  that  are  sufficiently  rooted  ;  and  treat  them  in  every  respect 
as  directed  in  page  438,  -which  see.  You  may  yet  lay  pinks  and 
carnations,  if  omitted  in  June  and  July,  taking  care  to  keep  the 
earth  moderately  moist  about  them  till  well  rooted  ;  but  it  would 
be  much  better,  to  have  done  this  in  the  beginning  of  July,  as  in 
that  case,  the  layers  would  be  strong  and  well  established  before 
winter.  For  the  method,  see  page  413. 

Auriculas  and  Polyanthuses^ 

The  first  week  in  this  month  is  a  very  proper  time  to  shift  into 
fresh  compost,  such  of  your  choice  auriculas  as  were  not  new  pot- 
ted in  April,  or  May  ;  for  which  compost,  and  the  method  of 
shifting,  see  page  339,  &c.  You  may  at  the  same  time,  take  off 
any  strong  slips  that  have  fibres  attached  to  them,  and  plant  them 
as  there  directed  ;  this  fresh  earth  will  strengthen  the  plants  great- 
ly, and  improve  their  flowers  the  following  spring.  All  your  auricu- 
las will  require,  at  this  season,  to  be  kept  where  they  can  be  free 
from  the  mid-day  sun,  and  enjoy  that  of  the  morning,  till  nine  or 
ten  o'clock,  and  that  of  the  afternoon  after  four  or  fire. 

The  choice  polyanthuses,  under  similar  circumstances,  should  be 
treated  in  every  respect  as  recommended  for  the  auriculas. 

Transplant  auricula  and  polyanthus  seedlings,  as  directed  in 
pages  340  and  542,  observing  to  give  them  proper  shade  and  occa- 
sional waterings,  and  also  to  close  the  earth  well  about  their  roots, 
otherwise  the  worms  will  draw  them,  out  of  the  ground. 


460  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [AUG. 


Removing  and  planting  Bulbous  roots. 

In  the  first  week  of  this  month,  if  not  clone  in  July,  you  should 
plant  all  the  autumn  flowering  bulbs  which  you  have  yet  out  of 
ground  ;  such  as  CYocuses,  Colchicums,  autumnal  Narcissus,  Ama- 
ryllises, &c.  and  likewise,  any  spring  flowering  bulbs  that  do  not 
agree  with  being  kept  too  long  in  a  dry  state  ;  as  Fritillaries,  Crown 
Imperials,  Snow-drops,  spring  Crocuses,  Martagons,  red  and  white 
Lilies,  bulbous  Irises,  &c.  Any  of  the  latter  kinds,  may  now  be 
taken  up  and  immediately  transplanted;  but  this  should  be  done 
early  in  the  month,  before  they  begin  to  push  out  new  fibres  ;  af- 
ter which,  they  would  be  considerably  weakened  by  a  removal. 
You  may,  also,  at  this  time,  take  up,  separate,  and  transplant,  the 
roots  of  Paeonias,  Flag  Irises,  and  any  other  hardy  kinds  of  fleshy 
or  tuberous-rooted  flowers,  whose  leaves  are  now  decayed.  When 
the  roots  are  taken  up,  the  small  offsets  should  be  separated,  and 
planted  in  beds,  to  increase  the  kinds,  and  the  large  roots  replant- 
ed in  any  beds  or  borders  where  wanted  for  flowering.  Each  re- 
spective kind  is  to  be  covered  from  two  to  four  inches  deep,  gene- 
rally in  proportion  vothe  size  and  strength  of  the  roots. 

«         Transplanting  Seedli?ig  Perennials  and  Biennials. 

Transplant  into  nursery  beds,  the  seedlings  of  the  various  kinds 
of  perennial  and  biennial  flowers,  that  are  now  of  a  proper  size,  as 
directed  in  page  416;  or  such  may  now  be  planted  finally,  where 
they  are  to  flower  next  season.  As  the  wall-flower  and  stock-gilly- 
flower plants  will,  in  the  middle  and  eastern  states,  require  some 
protection  in  winter,  such  should  now  be  transplanted  into  pots, 
or  into  beds  where  frames  may  be  placed  over  them,  on  the  ap- 
proach of  severe  frost. 

Solving  Seeds  of  Bulbous  rooted  Flowers. 

The  seeds  of  Tulips,  Hyacinths,  Narcissuses,  Irises,  Crown 
Imperials,  Fritillaries  and  Lilies,  or  of  any  other  kinds  of 
bulbs,  whose  seeds  are  ripe,  may  now  be  sown,  in  order  to  ob- 
tain new  varieties.  These  if  sown  as  soon  after  being  ripe  as  they 
are  sufficiently  dry  and  hardened,  will  vegetate,  the  ensuing 
spring  ;  but  if  kept  out  of  the  ground  till  that  period,  very  few  of 
them  will  come  up  for  a  full  year  after.  For  the  method  of  sowing 
the  seeds,  Sec.  see  the  Flower-garden  for  next  month. 

Projutgating  Fibrous-rooted  Perennial  Plants. 

Most  of  the  early  flowering,  fibrous-rooted  plants,  whose  flow- 
er-stems had  been  cut  down  in  June  or  July,  will  some  time  in  this 
month,  have  thrown  up  new  suckers  from  the  roots  ;  then  such 
may  be  carefully  taken  off,  and  planted  in  nursery-beds  ;  or  the 
\yhole  roots  may  towards  the  end  of  the  month  be  taken  up  and  di- 


AUG.]      ,  FLOWER-GARDEN.  461 

vicled  into  many  separate  parts,  taking  care  to  do  it  in  such  a  man- 
ner, as  that  every  plant,  or  part,  so  separated,  may  be  furnished 
with  roots.  Trim  or  cut  off  from  each  slip,  or  part,  any  long  or 
bruised  roots  ;  pick  off  all  decayed  or  declining  leaves,  and  plant 
the  sets  or  divisions,  in  a  shady  border,  or  where  they  can  be  con- 
veniently covered  with  mats  or  other  covering,  till  newly  rooted. 

They  should  be  watered  immediately,  and  that  repeated  from 
time  to  time,  till  they  are  well  taken  with  the  ground,  and  in  a  free 
growing  state. 

Pinks,  sweet-william,  rose-campion,  scarlet-lychnis,  gentianella, 
polyanthuses,  primroses,,  double  daisies,  double  chamomile,  dou- 
ble perennial  catchfly,  double  ragged-robin,  perennial  Cyanus,  Mo- 
nardas,  Penstemons,  Phloxes,  Violas,  Campanulas,  Dracocephalums, 
Spiraea  trifoiiata,  and  various  other  kinds,  may  now  be  propagated 
in  this  way. 

Collecting  Flowering  Plants  from  the  Woods^  Fields,  and  Stvamfis. 

Many  beautiful  ornamental  plants  may  now  be  collected 
from  the  woods,  fields,  and  swamps,  which  would  grace  and 
embellish  the  Flower-garden  and  Pleasure-grounds,  if  intro- 
duced thereinto  :  and  that  at  a  season  when  the  general  run  of 
cultivated  flowers  are  out  of  bloom  ;  such  as  Lobelias  of  various 
kinds,  Aletris  farinosa,  Asclepiases,  in  sorts,  Asters,  Cassia  mari- 
landica,  Chelones,  Cucubalus  stellatus,  Cypripediums,  Dodecathe- 
on  Meadia,  Dracocephalums,  Eupatoriums,  Euphorbias,  and  Ga- 
lega  virginiana  ;  Gentianas,  hardy  harbaceous  Geraniums,  Gerar- 
dias,  Glycines,  Gnaphaliums,  Hedysarums,  Helianthuses  .and 
Heucheras ;  Hibiscuses,  Hypoxises,  Irises,  Liatrises,  Lysima- 
chias,  Melanthiums,  Monardas,  Napjeas  and  Ophryses ;  Orchises, 
Oxalises,  Podalyrias,  Penstemons,  Phloxes,  Polygala  senega,  Rhex- 
ias,  Rudbeckias,  Sarracenias  and  Saxifragas ;  Sylphiums,  Sisyrin- 
chiums,  Solidagoes,  Spigelia  marilandica,  Trilliums,  Veratrums 
and  Veronicas  ;  Limadorum  tuberosum,  Lilium  superbum  and 
canadense,  Erythronium  americanum,  together  with  an  immense 
number  of  other  delightful  plants. 

All  the  above,  and  any  other  kinds  you  meet  with,  that  are  wor- 
thy of  notice,  may  be  taken  up,  whether  in,  or  out  of  flower,  with 
balls  of  earth,  brought  home,  and  planted  immediately  ;  on  taking 
them  up,  cutoff  the  flower-stems,(ifany)and  when  planted,  give  water 
and  shade  for  a  few  days  to  the  fibrous-rooted  kinds;  next  year  they 
will  flower  luxuriantly,  after  which,  each  sort  may  be  propagated  in 
its  proper  season.  Observe  in  planting,  to  give  each  respective 
kind,  a  soil  and  situation  as  nearly  similar  as  possible,  to  that,  in 
which  you  found  it  in  its  wikl  state. 

Saxifrage. 

The  double  variety  of  the  Saxifraga  granulata^  or  white  saxi- 
frage, is  a  most  beautiful  flowering  plant,  and  extremely  deserving 
of  place  among  every  fine  collection  of  flowers;  its  root  is  composed 


462  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [AUG. 

of  several  little  grains  or  knobs,  attached  to  a  main  fibre,  and  throw- 
ing out  small  fibres  from  their  base  :  the  stem  is  erect,  round, 
branched,  and  paniclecl  at  top,  usually  from  eight  to  ten  inches 
high,  producing  in  April  and  May,  beautiful  bunches  of  double 
white  flowers :  its  leaves  are  somewhat  fleshy,  lobecl  and  cut ; 
those  next  the  root  on  long  foot-stalks ;  those  on  the  stem  alter- 
nate, subsesile. 

It  is  commonly  cultivated  in  pots,  to  adorn  windows,  rooms,  Sec. 
)3nd  affords  one  of  the  best  specimens  of  what  is  called  a  granulous 
root. 

The  foliage  of  this  species  is  generally  decayed  about  this  time  ; 
therefore  the  roots  may  be  taken  up  in  little  bunches  attached  to 
fibres,  and  planted  immediately  in  pots  of  good  fresh  earth  ;  they 
are  not  to  be  covered  more  than  an  inch  deep  ;  the  pots  must  be 
placed  in  the  shade,  till  October,  and  gently  watered  at  intervals  ; 
late  in  autumn  the  foliage  will  begin  to  appear,  and  on  the  approach 
of  winter,  the  pots  should  be  placed  in  a  garden  frame,  where  they 
may  have  some  slight  protection  from  severe  frosts.  The  plants 
are  tolerably  hardy,  and  in  mild  winters  will  survive  in  the  open 
ground. 

The  Saxifraga  umbrosa^  or  London  pride,  may,  towards  the  end 
of  this  month,  be  propagated  by  slips  from  the  root.  This  makes 
a  good  edging  for  beds  and  borders,  and  is  perfectly  hardy.  The 
flowers  are  produced  in  panicles,  on  stems  of  about  a  foot  high  ; 
they  arc  small  but  numerous,  of  a  white  or  flesh-colour,  spotted 
beautifully  with  yellow  and  red,  having  also  red  pistils.  It  is  a  na- 
tive of  Ireland,  growing  in  a  wild  state  near  the  lake  of  Killarney, 
on  the  mountains  near  Sligo,  on  Croagh  Patrick,  in  the  cor.nty  of 
Mayo,  and  in  various  other  parts  ;  it  is  said,  also,  to  be  indigenous  in 
England,  and  was  such  a  favourite,  for  the  beauty  and  elegance  of  its 
flowers,  as  to  be  generally  called  JVone-sQ-firettij,  and  also  for  its 
thriving  in  London,  better  than  most  plants,  was  called  London 
Pride.  Its  flowers  are  produced  in  May  and  June. 

The  Sajcifraga  sarmentosa,  China  or  Strawberry  Saxifrage  ;  has 
round  variegated  leaves,  and  Strawberry  like  runners  ;  the  uncom- 
mon magnitude  of  the  two  lowermost  pendant  petals,  joined  to  the 
very  conspicuous  glandular  nectary  in  the  centre  of  the  flower,  half 
surrounding  the  germen,  render  this  species  strikingly  distinct; 
and  has  created  a  doubt  in  the  minds  of  Mr.  CURTIS  and  others, 
whether  it  ought  not  to  be  considered  a  distinct  genus. 

It  has  been  generally  treated  as  a  Green-house  plant,  but  with 
me,  it  survived  the  severe  winter  of  1804-5,  in  the  open  ground, 
and  therefore  I  consider  it  perfectly  hardy.  It  flowers  in  May  and 
June,  delights  in  a  dry  soil,  and  may  now  be  propagated  by  its  run- 
ners, which  it  produces  in  great  abundance. 

The  Saxifraga  Cotyledon,  or  Pyramidal  Saxifrage.  This  species 
has  a  fibrous  perennial  root,  crowned  with  cartilaginous  sawed 
leaves  in  a  cluster,  like  house-leek  ;  the  stems  are  generally  about  a 
foot,  or  more,  high,  and  terminated  with  panicles  of  white  flowers  ; 
the  whole  forming  a  beautiful  pyramid.  The  flowers  are  produced 
in  May  and  June,  and  when  kept  in  the  shade,  and  screened  from 


AUG.]  FLOWER-GARDEN.  453 

-wind  and  rain,  will  continue  in  beauty  a  considerable  time.     The 
plant  may  now  be  propagated,  by  offsets,  which  it  produces  freely. 

flowering  Plants  in  Pol*. 

Such  annual  and  other  flowering  plants,  as  are  in  pots,  must  now 
be  carefully  supplied  with  water  ;  some  kinds  requiring  it  twice  a 
day,  in  very  dry  weather,  others  once  a  day,  and  a  few  sorts  not  so 
often.  As  to  the  consumption  of  water,  there  is  an  astonishing 
difference  in  the  constitutions  of  plants,  some  absorbing  and  dis- 
charging it  so  quickly,  as  to  excite  surprise,  and  others  but  very 
slowly  ;  therefore,  you  must  supply  each  respective  kind,  according 
to  its  habit  and  necessity. 

Ordinary  Attendance. 

Give  water,  as  often  as  necessary,  to  all  the  young  plantations  of 
herbaceous  flower-roots  ;  cut  down  the  stems  of  such  as  are  past 
bloom  ;  loosen  the  earth  in  the  tops  of  all  your  pots  containing 
flowering-plants ;  clip  hedges,  if  omitted  in  the  last  month  ;  clip 
box  edgings,  and  trim  the  various  other  kinds  used  for  that  pur- 
pose, into  a  neat  and  becoming  form  ;  but  let  this  be  done  early  in 
the  month,  and,  if  possible,  in  moist  or  cloudy  weather.  Mow 
grass-walks  and  lawns,  once  a  week  or  fortnight,  according  to  the 
growth  of  the  grass.  Sweep,  dress,  and  roll,  the  gravel-walks  once 
a  week ;  hoe  and  clean,  the  flower-borders,  beds,  alleys,  and  shrub- 
bery compartments ;  and  let  the  weeds  be  raked  up  and  carried 
away  immediately  out  of  the  garden,  &c.  Trim  and  tie  up  any 
loose  growing  or  straggling  plants ;  dress  disorderly  growing 
shrubs,  and  inoculate  such  kinds  as  you  wish  to  propagate  in  that 
way. 

Gather  flower-seeds,  as  they  ripen,  and  preserve  them  till  the 
season  of  sowing  ;  most  kinds  will  keep  better  and  longer  in  their 
pods  or  husks,  than  when  rubbed  out. 

Sowing  Auricula,  Polyanthus,  Anemone,  and  Ranunculus  Seeds. 

I  find  in  almost  every  treatise  on  gardening,  that  I  have  met  with, 
even  in  the  celebrated  works  of  Mr-  MILLAR,  directions  for  sowing 
the  above  seeds  in  this  month,  and  September  :  I  have  tried  the  ex- 
periment for  many  years,  but  was  generally  unsuccessful ;  princi- 
pally, on  account  of  the  seeds  vegetating  on  the  approach  of  win- 
ter, and  these  minute  plants  always  being  destroyed  before  spring, 
by  earth-worms,  slugs,  snails,  or  by  other  accidents  ;  therefore, 
have  given  up  that  practice  as  a  bad  one,  and  adopted  sowing  them 
in  December,  as  there  directed,  or  in  January  or  February,  from 
which  sowings  I  have  uniformly  been  successful.  I  have  noticed 
this  subject  here,  in  order  to  correct  what  I  conceive  to  be  an  erro- 
neous practice,  lest  the  pursuing  of  it,  would  disappoint,  and,  con- 
sequently discourage,  those  who  have  a  taste  for  these  elegant 


464  THE  GREEN-HOUSE.  [AUG. 

flowers.  Even  if  preserved  in  a  Green -house,  those  small  plants 
are  subject  to  the  same  accidents,  or  to  be  eaten  by  the  Oniscus}  or 
wood-louse,  before  the  spring  vegetation  commences. 


THE  GREEN-HOUSE. 

Shifting  and  giving-  fresh  earth  to  the  Plants. 

IN  the  first  week  of  this  month,  if  not  done  before,  you  may 
shift  into  larger  pots,  &c.  young  oranges,  lemons,  citrons  and  shad- 
docks, and  also,  such  other  plants  as  are  too  much  confined,  and 
that  have  perfected  their  spring  or  summer  shoots,  previous  to  their 
beginning  to  push  their  autumn  growths  ;  such  is  the  critical  pe- 
riod in  which  plants  ought  to  have  a  summer  shifting!  and  should 
be  particularly  noticed  in  any  climate  or  country  where  such  prac- 
tice is  necessary.  Let  this  operation  be  performed,  as  directed  in 
page  353  ;  after  which,  treat  the  plants  as  recommended  in  page 
444. 

Loosen  the  earth  in  the  tops  of  such  pots  or  tubs,  as  it  appears 
hard  or  stiff  in,  and  add  some  fresh  compost  thereto,  if  not  done  last 
month  ;  this,  and  the  picking  off,  of  any  decayed  leaves,  together, 
with  the  trimming  of  disorderly  branches,  will  give  a  fresh 
and  pleasing  appearance  to  the  collection,  -add  to  the^  beauty,  and 
promote  the  vigorous  growth  of  the  plants. 

Profiagating  the  Plants. 

You  may  still  continue  to  propagate  various  kinds  of  plants,  by 
cuttings,  layers,  and  suckers,  as  directed  in  the  former  months. 

Budding  Oranges  and  Lemons,  &c. 

Any  time  this  month,  you  may  successfully  bud  oranges,  le- 
mons, citrons,  limes,  and  shaddocks  ;  beginning  in  the  first  week 
thereof,  and  continuing  to  the  end  ;  observing  to  work  each  tree  as 
you  perceive  it  to  put  forth  its  fresh  autumn  shoots  ;  some  trees, 
even  of  the  same  species,  will  produce  those  earlier  or  later  in  the 
month,  and  so  soon  as  you  perceive  a  few  of  them  grown  to  two 
or  three  inches  in  length,  seize  upon  that  time  to  perform  the  ope- 
ration, as  then  the  sap  being  in  a  fresh  state  of  circulation,  the  bark 
of  the  stock  will  separate  freely  for  the  reception  of  the  bud,  and 
the  necessary  nourishment  will  be  copiously  supplied. 

Observe,  at  this  time,  to  take  the  buds  from  shoots  produced 
in  the  early  part  of  the  present  season.  The  proper  stocks  are 


AUG.]  THE  GREEN-HOUSE.  465 

those  raised  from  the  kernels,  of  either  of  the  species.  For  the 
methods  of  budding,  and  general  observations  on  that  subject,  see 
page  433,  Sec. 

It  will  be  very  proper  on  budding  those,  or  any  other  kinds  of 
plants  in  pots,  to  place  them  in  the  shade  for  three  or  four  weeks, 
after  the  operation  is  performed  ;  or  at  least  to  turn  the  budded 
side  of  each  plant  to  the  north,  in  order  to  avoid  the  drying  influ- 
ence of  the  sun. 

Cut  off  oranges,  lemons,  jasmins  and  other  exotics,  which  were 
inarched  in  April  or  May,  provided  that  you  find  them  sufficiently 
united.  For  the  method  of  doing  this,  see  the  article  Grafting  by 
Abroach,  or  Inarching,  in  page  249. 

Watering. 

Carefully  attend  to  the  watering  of  all  the  plants,  giving  it  to 
each  as  often  as  necessary,  and  in  proportion  to  its  consumption  ; 
observing  always  to  administer  it  sparingly  to  the  succulent  kinds. 

The  pouring  of  water,  occasionally,  through  the  rose  of  a  wa- 
tering pot,  over  the  branches  of  the  shrubby  kinds,  would  greatly 
refresh  them,  and  wash  off  the  dust  collected  on  the  leaves  ;  which, 
would  give  them  a  clean  and  pleasing  appearance  :  but  this  should 
be  done  late  in  the  evening  when  the  sun  has  lost  its  power  for  the 
day. 

Such  pots  as  are  plunged,  must  be  turned  full  round  in  their 
seats,  at  least  once  a  week,  to  prevent  the  roots  penetrating  into 
the  surrounding  earth,  through  the  holes  in  the  bottoms  of  the 
pots. 

The  Mexican  Ferraria,  or  Tiger  *Floiver. 

The  Ferraria  Tigridia,  of  CURTIS,  or  F.  ha-voniaj  of  LIN.  and 
WILLDENOW,  is  of  such  exquite  beauty,  as  to  merit  particular  at- 
tention. It  is  of  the  Gynandria  class*  and  order  Triandria.  Its  Roof 
is  a  tunicated  bulb,  producing  from  one  to  four  stems,  from  eigh- 
teen inches  to  two  feet  in  height,  composed  of  various  joints,  and 
bearing  at  each,  a  plicated  oblong  lanceolate  leaf,  from  a  sheathing 
petiole  the  length  of  the  intcrnode,  and  at  the  summit  an  in- 
volucrum,  apparently  consisting  of  two  lanceolate,  ancipital,  con- 
duplicate,  nearly  equal  valves,  of  which  the  exterior  is  in  fact 
the  common  spathe  or  involucre,  and  embraces  the  interior  with 
its  contents  ;  the  interior  valve,  which  is  exactly  opposed  to  the 
outer  one,  is  the  proper  spathe  of  the  first  flower  and  embraces  it, 
together  with  the  spathes  and  flowers  that  are  to  come  in  succes- 
sion ;  the  spathe  of  the  second  flower  is  opposed  to  that  of  the  first, 
and  placed  beweeen  it  and  the  pedicel  of  the  first  flower  ;  and  so  of 
the  rest,  every  spathe  being  opposed  to  the  one  of  the  preceding 
flower  and  embraced  by  it.  These  spathes  are  similar  in  shape, 
but  diminish  progressively  and  become  more  membranaceous.  The 
Corolla,  or  flower,  is  large  and  divided  into  six  segments,  of  which 
the  three  outer  are  urceolate  at  the  base,  expanded  above,  and  re- 

3  o 


466  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  [AUG. 

fleeted  at  the  point ;  the  three  inner  ones  smaller  by  half,  biform- 
ed,  singularly  divided  into  a  lower  hastate  and  an  upper  ovate  divi- 
sion, by  a  depressed  intersection ;  the  upper  division  is  of  the 
richest  scarlet  imaginable,  variegated  by  a  bright  golden  yellow. 
The  Filament,  is  a  cuniculated  or  piped  triquetral  column.  The 
Anthers  are  sessile,  erect,  bearing  their  polen  on  the  outside,  con- 
niving at  the  point,  diverging  below  to  admit  the  exit  of  the  stig- 
mas. The  Germen,  is  obtusely  trigonal,  three  celled.  Style,  the 
length  of  the  filamental  column,  through  the  hollow  of  which  it 
passes.  Stigmas,  three,  filiform,  bifid.  Capsule,  oblong,  obtusely 
trigonal  three-celled.  Seeds,  in  double  rows  in  each  cell  and  round. 

HERNANDEZ,  a  Spanish  physician,  who  was  sent  to  Mexico,  by 
PHILIP  II.  King  of  Spain,  informs  us,  that  it  grew  wild  about  that 
city,  and  was  much  cultivated  for  its  excessive  beauty,  and  for  the 
medicinal  virtues  of  its  roots,  being,  as  he  terms  it,  u  a  frigefacient 
in  fevers,  and  also  a  promoter  of  fecundity  in  women." 

This  flower  has  no  scent ;  but  in  splendid  beauty,  it  has  scarcely 
any  competitor.  It  is  born  to  display  its  glory  but  a  few  hours, 
and  then  literally  melts  away ;  but  to  compensate  for  this  sudden 
decline,  it  continues  to  produce  flowers  for  several  weeks.  The 
latter  end  of  this  month  is  generally  the  season  of  its  bloom. 

It  is  properly  a  Green-house  plant,  succeeds  best  in  light  mould, 
and  is  easily  propagated  by  seed,  from  which  the  plants  will  flower 
the  second  year.  The  bulbs  and  offsets  may  be  taken  up  in  Octo- 
ber, when  the  leaves  are  decayed,  and  kept  in  dry  sand,  saw-dust, 
or  rolled  up  in  dry  moss  till  March  ;  but  they  must  be  carefully 
preserved  from  frost.  Or  they  may  be  replanted  immediately  in 
pots  of  fresh  earth,  and  placed  in  the  Green-house  ;  giving  them 
but  very  little  water,  till  they  begin  to  vegetate  in  spring. 

COL.  THOMAS  FORREST,  of  Germantown,  near  Philadelphia,  is 
in  possession  of  this  rare  and,  perhaps,  unparalleled  beauty,  as 
well  as  of  many  other  scarce  and  valuable  plants.  I  saw  it  in  full  bloom 
last  season,  in  his  collection. 


THE  HOT-HOUSE. 


Pine- Apples. 

THE  care  of  the  fruiting  pines  being  the  same  in  this  month  as  in 
the  last,  is  unnecessary  to  be  repeated  ;  as  likewise  the  propagation 
of  the  plants  by  crowns  and  suckers,  as  well  as  the  shifting  ofthose 
succession  pines  which  are  expected  to  produce  fruit  next  season. 

Let  this  shifting,  where  neglected  last  month,  be  done,  if  possi- 
ble, in  the  first  or  second  week  of  this,  that  the  plants  may  have 


AUG.]  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  457 

time  to  establish  strong  roots,  and  to  be  advanced  in  free  and  vigo- 
rous growth  before  winter,  For  the  method  of  shifting,  see  page 
449. 

Besides  the  watering  of  the  pine  plants  in  the  common  way,  it 
will  be  of  great  service  to  them,  in  very  warm  weather,  to  water 
the  walks  and  flues  of  the  Hot-house  occasionally  :  this  should  al- 
ways be  done  late  in  the  evening,  -and  the  glasses  ought  to  be  im- 
mediately closed.  The  great  heat  of  the  house  will  exhale  the 
moisture,  and  raise  a  kind  of  artificial  dew,  which  will  soon  stand  in 
drops  on  the  glasses  ;  the  leaves  of  the  pine  being  succulent,  they 
will  imbibe  the  watry  particles,  and  be  greatly  benefited  thereby. 

Raising  the  Pine  from  Seed. 

New  varieties  of  the  Pine  may  be  obtained  from  seeds,  and  when 
such  is  found  in  the  fruit,  wnich  is  very  uncommon,  even  in  the 
West-Indies,  they  should  be  carefully  preserved  in  dry  sand  till 
March,  when  they  will  vegetate  and  succeed  better  than  if  sown 
at  an  earlier  period.  The  pots  for  this  purpose  should  be  then  filled 
to  within  an  inch  of  their  vims,  with  light  rich  earth,  and  plunged 
into  a  warm  part  of  the  tan-bed,  for  a  day  or  two  before  sowing  the 
seeds,  which  should  be  placed  therein  about  an  inch  apart,  and  co- 
vered not  more  than  a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep.  Cover  the  pots 
immediately  with  pieces  of  glass  that  will  fit  the  tops  very  close  ; 
this  by  preventing  the  mould  from  drying  and  giving  an  additional 
heat  to  it  near  the  surface,  will  soon  cause  the  seeds  to  vegetate. 
After  the  plants  appear,  sprinkle  them  over  with  water  occasionally  ; 
as  they  advance  in  size,  give  them  increased  portions  of  air  and  wa- 
ter, and  by  the  time  they  have  five  or  six  leaves,  they  will  be  able  to 
withstand  the  general  air  of  the  Hot-house. 

By  the  end  of  August  these  seedlings  will  be  grown  to  a  proper 
s'ize  for  transplanting  ;  when  they  should  be  put  into  small  pots, 
filled  with  the  same  mould  recommended  for  crowns  and  suckers 
in  page  446  ;  and  from  that  time  their  treatment  requires  no  differ^ 
ence  from  that  of  those. 

Shifting  the  various  Exotic  s^  &c. 

The  beginning  of  this  month  is  a  very  proper  season  for  the 
shifting  of  Aloes,  Sedums,  Cactuses,  Mesembryanthemums,  and  all 
other  succulent  exotics ;  they  will  now  take  fresh  root  sooner  than 
at  any  other  time  of  the  year  :  you  should  at  the  same  time  take  off 
any  offsets  that  may  be  produced,  and  plant  them  into  small  pots 
filled  with  fresh  sandy  earth,  placing  them  where  they  may  have 
only  the  morning  sun  for  ten  or  twelve  days,  and  observing  to  refresh 
them,  now  and  then,  with  a  little  water. 

The  several  kinds  of  tender  exotics  that  require  it,  should  now 
be  shifted,  in  order  to  establish  strong  and  fresh  roots  before  winter ; 
observing  to  place  them  in  the  shade  immediately  after,  till  they 
shall  have  recovered  the  check  occasioned  by  the  removal.  This 
work  should  be  performed  early  in  the  month  j  for  if  they  are  shift- 


468  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  [SEPT. 

ed  too  late  in  the  season,  they  do  not  recover  before  the  cold  comes 
on,  which  checks  their  growth,  prevents  their  free  rooting,  and 
consequently,  renders  them  not  so  well  prepared  to  maintain  them- 
selves in  winter,  as  if  done  at  an  early  period  ;  and  many  kinds 
that  have  stood  too  long  in  the  same  pots,  without  shifting,  will 
have  their  roots  so  matted,  as  to  grow  mouldy  in  winter  and  decay  ; 
which  has  often  been  destructive  to  many  choice  plants. 

The  other  plants  which  do  not  require  shifting  at  this  season, 
should  have  some  of  the  earth  taken  out  of  the  tops  of  the  pots,  if 
not  done  last  month  and  replaced  with  fresh  compost ;  this  will 
greatly  encourage  their  autumn  growth,  and  should  not  be  neglec- 
ted. 

The  regular  watering  of  the  plants  must  now  be  duly  attended 
to,  for  one  days  neglect,  at  this  season,  might  destroy  many  of  your 
most  valuable  plants.  Keep  all  the  collection  free  from  decayed 
leaves,  and  such  pots  as  are  plunged  in  the  earth,  must  be  turned 
quite  round  in  their  seats  once  a  week,  for  the  reasons  mentioned 
in  the  preceding  months. 

Keep  all  the  pots  and  tubs  free  from  weeds,'  and  continue  to  pro- 
pagate the  various  kinds  by  suckers,  layers  or  cuttings. 

Labeling  the  Plants. 

In  large  collections,  all  the  plants  should  be  labeled,  having  the 
Generic  and  Specific  name  of  the  plant  on  each  label.  These  may 
be  made  of  small  slips  of  pine  or  cedar,  each  from  six  to  ten  inches 
long,  near  an  inch  broad  at  top,  tapering  to  a  point  at  the  lower  end, 
and  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick.  When  the  sticks  are  ready, 
the  parts  to  be  written  on  should  be  rubbed  lightly  with  white,  oil 
colour  paint ;  then,  with  a  black  lead  pencil,  while  yet  wet,  write 
the  generic  and  specific  name  of  the  plant  thereon,  which  will  soon 
dry  and  become  completely  permanent;  the  label  is  then  to  be  stuck 
into  the  pot  near  the  rim,  and  so  deep  as  to  leave  the  writing  easy 
to  be  seen.  These  labels  will  continue  good  for  three  years,  or 
longer. 


SEPTEMBER. 

WORK  TO  BE  DONE  IN  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN. 

SOME  persons  who  write  on  Gardening,  content  themselves  by 
simply  saying  that  such  a  thing,  should  be  sown  in  such  a  month; 
this  gives  a  latitude  in  the  present,  of  thirty  days  ;  so  that  an  inex- 
perienced person,  may  be  led  to  think  that  he  is  within  due  bounds, 
if  he  sows  on  the  30th  of  September,  what  ought  to  have  been 
sown  in  the  first  week,  perhaps  about  the  first  day  thereof,  whilst 
experienced  Gardeners  well  know,  that  a  difference  of  three  or  four 


SEPT.]  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  469 

days,  particularly,  in  this  month,  makes  a  greater  odds  in  crops, 
than  most  people  could  imagine  would  be  consequent  on  the  dif- 
ference of  as  many  weeks. 

I  am  not  an  advocate  for  sowing  seeds  on  a  particular  day  of  the 
week,  or  month,  nor  in  the  full  or  wane  of  the  moon,  nor  when  the 
wind  blows  from  the  east,  west,  or  any  particular  point  of  the  com- 
pass ;  these  ridiculous  and  superstitious  notions,  have  been  long 
since,  deservedly,  banished  out  of  the  well  informed  world ;  but  in 
this  month,  above  all  others  in  the  year,  there  is  an  absolute  ne- 
cessity of  sowing  certain  crops,  within  ajfcw  days  of  particular  pe- 
riods, in  order  to  ensure  the  best  possible  success ;  so  thai  the 
plants  may  not  become  too  strong  before  winter,  and,  consequently, 
be  subject  to  start  to  seed  early  in  spring,  previously  to  their  attain- 
ing due  perfection,  nor  be  too  weakly  to  endure  the  severities  of 


the  ensuing  winter. 


Sjiinach. 


Hoe  and  clean  your  advancing  crops  of  spinach,  and  let  the 
plants  be  thinned  out  to  proper  distances  in  order  to  afford  suffi- 
cient room  for  the  production  of  large  succulent  leaves. 

In  the  first  week  of  this  month  prepare  some  good  dry  ground, 
for  a  full  crop  of  spinach,  for  winter  and  spring  use.  In  the  eas- 
tern states,  particularly,  this  work  should  not  be  delayed  later,  nor 
indeed  in  the  middle  states  if  it  can  be  well  avoided;  but  in  a  favour- 
able season  and  a  warm  soil  and  exposure,  it  may  succeed  very 
well,  in  the  middle  states,  if  sown  so  late  as  the  fifteenth  or  even 
the  twentieth  of  the  month ;  the  more  to  the  southward,  the  later 
it  may  be  sown. 

The  best  sort  to  endure  cold  is  the  prickly  seeded  kind,  which 
is  what  most  people  sow  at  this  season,  its  being  much  hardier  than 
the  round  seeded  sort, of  this  there  are  two  or  three  varieties,  differing 
only  in  the  size  of  their  leaves  ;  but  the  largest  and  most  profita- 
ble sort  is,  what  gardeners  call  the  burdock-spinach.  A  thin  sprink- 
ling of  the  brown  Dutch,  Egyptian  cos,  and  hardy  cabbage  lettuces 
may  be  sown  among  the  spinach,  and  if  the  winter  is  any  way  fa- 
vourable you  may  have  some  good  plants  from  these  to  transplant 
early  in  spring  for  heading.  A  few  of  the  early  short-top  salmon, 
and  white  turnep  rooted  radishes  may  also  be  sown  among  the  spi- 
nach, for  use  in  October  and  November.  Sow  the  seed  thinly  in 
drills  about  eight  inches  distant  from  one  another,  or  broad-cast, 
and  tread  it  in  ;  then  rake  the  ground  effectually  so  as  to  cover  the 
seed  well ;  or  if  it  be  cultivated  on  a  large  scale,  it  may  be  harrowed 
in  with  a  light  harrow,  wrong  end  foremost. 

When  the  plants  are  up  and  have  got  leaves  an  inch  broad,  or  a 
little  better,  they  must  be  thinned,  either  by  hand  or  hoe,  to  three 
or  four  inches  asunder,  and  the  weeds  effectually  cleared  away 
from  among  them  ;  by  this  treatment  the  plants  will  get  stocky, 
gather  strength,  and  be  the  better  able  to  stand  the  winter  frosts. 


470  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  [SEPT, 


Lettuces. 

The  various  kinds  of  lettuces  sown  last  month,  should  be  planted 
out  as  early  in  this,  as  they  have  attained  to  a  proper  size  for  that 
purpose  ;  let  them  be  set  in  beds  of  good  well  prepared  ground, 
about  ten  inches  asunder  and  watered  immediately ;  which  should 
be  frequently  repeated,  if  the  weather  proves  dry. 

In  the  last  week  of  the  month  prepare  a  dry,  warm,  well  shel- 
tered south  border,  on  which  to  plant  the  lettuces  sown  in  the  lat- 
ter part  of  August,  for  standing  over  winter  for  spring  use.  Take 
up  the  best  plants  from  the  seed-bed,  pick  off  the  decayed  leaves, 
trim  the  ends  of  their  roots,  and  plant  them  in  rows  six  inches  asun- 
der every  way ;  if  the  plants  survive  the  winter  every  other  one 
may  be  taken  up  in  spring  and  planted  in  new  beds,  which  will 
give  the  others  abundance  of  room  to  grow  to  the  best  perfection. 
They  are  to  be  protected  during  winter  as  directed  in  November. 
Sow  more  lettuce  seed  in  the  first  week  of  this  month,  to  plant  out 
in  the  beginning  of  October,  for  the  same  purpose.  The  kinds 
proper  to  be  sown  now  are  the  brown  Dutch,  Hemmersmith  hardy 
green,  Egyptian  cos,  and  the  hardy  cabbage  lettuces.  Also,  about 
the  middle  of  the  month,  sow  another  crop  of  the  same  kinds,  to  be 
planted  in  frames  in  October,  for  their  winter  preservation. 

To  have  lettuces  in  good  perfection  in  November,  December, 
and  January,  you  should  about  the  latter  end  of  this  month,  prepare 
one  or  more  beds  of  rich  earth,  in  a  warm  part  of  the  garden, 
where  the  ground  is  dry  and  lies  well  to  the  sun.  Make  the  bed 
or  beds  the  length  and  width  of  one  or  more  cucumber  frames;  plant 
therein  some  good  plants  of  your  best  kinds  of  heading  and  cos  let- 
tuces, and  give  them  water  occasionally  till  weil  rooled  and  grow- 
ing freely. 

Towards  the  middle  of  next  month,  when  the  nights  begin  to 
grow  cold,  place  the  frames  and  glasses  on  the  beds  ;  keep 
on  the  glasses  every  night,  but  let  them  be  kept  totally  off  in  the 
clay  time,  till  the  November  frosts  commence  ;  after  which,  you 
must  be  governed  by  circumstances,  always  admitting  as  much 
air  every  day,  as  the  safety  and  free  growth  of  the  plants  will 
warrant. 

Sonn?ig  Radish  Seed. 

In  the  first  week  of  this  month,  you  should  sow  a  good  supply 
of  the  early  short-top,  white  and  red  turnep  rooted  and  salmon 
radishes ;  also,  a  sufficient  quantity  of  the  black  and  white  winter,  or 
Spanish  kinds  ;  the  latter,  on  the  approach  of  frost,  must  be  taken 
up  and  preserved  for  winter  use  as  you  do  carrots  or  turneps. 

Endive. 

As  early  in  the  month  as  possible,  transplant  a  full  crop  of  green 
curled  endive,  for  late  autumn  and  winter  use  ;  let  this  be  done  as 


SEPT.]  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  471 

directed  in  page  422.     Tie  up  the  leaves  of  full  grown  endive  for 
blanching  as  advised  in  page  453. 

Celery  and  Cardoons. 

Earth  up  celery  as  it  advances  in  growth ;  but  be  careful  to 
avoid  covering  the  hearts  of  the  plants;  this  work  should  always  be 
done  in  a  dry  day ;  lay  up  the  stalks  neatly  without  injuring  them, 
for  if  bruised  they  will  become  mouldy  and  be  subject  to  rot. 

If  your  crops  of  celery  be  scanty,  and  that  you  have  got  strong 
plants,  you  may  about  the  first  of  this  month  plant  them  out  in 
trenches.  Should  the  season  prove  very  favourable,  this  crop  may 
succeed  tolerably  well. 

The  cardoons  will  now  be  considerably  advanced  in  growth,  and 
consequently,  should  be  earthed  up  regularly  for  blanching ;  as 
these  plants  spread  considerably,  they  must  be  tied  up  neatly  with 
bass  strings,  hay-bands,  or  willow  twigs,  &c.  but  not  too  close,  so 
that  the  hearts  may  freely  advance  in  growth  ;  then  gather  the 
earth  up  all  round  each  plant,  first  breaking  it  fine,  and  as  you  lay 
it  up,  pat  it  with  the  back  of  the  spade,  to  make  it  keep  its  place 
and  cast  off  the  rain  :  as  the  plants  progress  in  growth  continue 
earthing  them  still  higher,  till  well  whitened  and  fit  for  use  ;  on  the 
approach  of  frost  they  may  be  protected  as  directed  in  November 
for  celery,  if  not  made  use  of  before  that  time. 

Winter  Cresses,  Corn-Ballad  and  Chervil. 

Sow  corn-sallad  and  winter  cresses  the  beginning  of  this  month, 
if  not  done  in  August,  for  winter  and  early  spring  use  ;  let  these  be 
sown  as  directed  in  page  455.  Likewise,  sow  a  supply  of  chervil 
for  soups  and  sallads  ;  this  maybe  sown  in  drills  nine  or  ten  inches 
asunder  and  covered  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep,  or  broad-cast 
and  raked  in. 

Small  Sallading. 

Continue  to  sow,  once  every  ten  days,  the  different  kinds  of  small 
sallading  as  directed  in  the  preceding  months.  The  seeds  may 
now  be  sown  in  an  open  situation  where  the  earth  is  light  and  rich, 
but  what  you  sow  towards  the  end  of  the  month  should  have  a 
warm  exposure. 

Hoe  Turneps. 

As  your  crops  of  turnep  advance  in  growth,  hoe  and  thin  the 
plants  to  proper  distances  ;  let  this  be  done  in  a  dry  day,  cutting  the 
weeds  up  clean  with  a  sharp  and  middle  sized  hoe.  For  general 
directions  see  page  426. 

Solving  Cabbage  Seed. 

The  proper  period  for  sowing  cabbage  seed,  in  the  middle  states, 
to  produce  early  summer  cabbages,  is  between  the  sixth  and  tenth 


472  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN/  [SEPT. 

of  this  month,  if  intended  to  be  transplanted  into  frames  in  October, 
for  winter  protection,  which  is  the  most  preferable  method  ;  but  if 
they  are  designed  for  remaining  in  the  seed-beds  till  spring,  the 
period  is  between  the  fifteenth  and  twentieth.  However  it  will  be 
very  proper  to  make  two  or  three  sowings  within  that  time,  as  it  is 
impossible  to  say  whether  the  fall  may  be  favourable  or  otherwise^ 
and  therefore  the  better  way,  is  to  be  prepared  in  either  case,  by 
successive  crops. 

The  consequence  of  having  plants  too  forward  or  early  is,  that 
they  are  very  subject  to  run  to  seed  in  the  spring,  soon  after  being 
planted  out ;  and  if  the  seeds  are  sown  too  late,  the  plants  do  not 
acquire  sufficient  strength  before  winter  to  withstand  its  rigour, 
without  extraordinary  care.  But,  in  either  case,  there  is  a  remedy  ; 
that  is,  if  the  plants  are  likely  to  become  too  luxuriant  and  strong, 
transplant  them  once  or  twice  in  October,  and  if  two  backward  and 
weakly,  make  a  slight  hot-bed  towards  the  latter  end  of  that  month, 
and  prick  them  out  of  the  seed-bed  thereon  ;  this  will  forward  them 
considerably. 

At  all  events,  I  would  advise,  particularly  in  the  middle  states, 
the  first  sowing  to  be  made  about  the  tenth  or  before  it,  the  second 
four  days  after,  and  the  third  on  the  eighteenth  day  of  this  month* 
or  at  any  rate  Within  two  or  three  days  of  these  periods,  for  the 
difference  occasioned  at  this  time  by  one  or  two  days,  will  in  a  few 
weeks  be  very  perceiveable  and  striking.  In  the  eastern  states, 
the  first  of  the  month  will  be  a  suitable  period,  for  sowing  a  princi- 
pal crop. 

The  kinds  proper  to  be  sown  now  are  the  early  Smyrna,  early 
York,  early  Battersea,  early  Russia,  and  early  sugar-loaf  cabbages  ; 
it  would  also,  be  very  proper  to  sow  at  this  time,  some  of  the  large 
drum-head,  flat  Dutch,  large  English  and  red  pickling  kinds,  to 
succeed  the  other  sorts,  and  to  produce  fine  large  heads  in  the 
early  autumn  months  ;  but  the  seeds  of  these  late  kinds  may  be 
sown  three  or  four  days  earlier  than  the  former,  as  the  plants  are 
not  so  subject  to  run  to  seed  in  spring. 

Sow  these  seeds  in  beds  of  good  garden  mould,  and  either  cover 
or  rake  them  in,  so  as  that  they  may  be  lodged  about  a  quarter  of 
an  inch  deep  ;  if  the  weather  should  prove  dry,  water  the  beds  occa- 
sionally in  the  evening  till  the  plants  are  up,  and  in  about  five 
weeks  they  will  be  fit  for  transplanting  into  their  winter  quarters, 
as  directed  in  October. 

Many  people  are  of  opinion,  that  it  is  time  enough  to  sow  the 
seeds  of  the  various  kinds  of  late  cabbages  in  spring,  but  they  may 
rest  assured,  that  such  as  are  sown  at  this  time,  will  produce  much 
larger  and  more  solid  heads,  than  the  spring  sown  plants ;  besides, 
they  will  be  fit  for  use  immediately  after  the  early  cabbages  are 
consumed,  and  keep  up  a  regular  and  constant  supply  of  thatexcel- 
lent  vegetable,  whether  for  sale  or  private  use,  till  the  spring  sown 
crops  shall  have  attained  to  full  perfection; 


SEPT.]  .     THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  473 


Solving  Cauliflower  Seed. 

The  critical  period,  in  the  middle  states,  for  sowing  cauliflower 
seed,  is  between  the  twentieth  and  twenty  eighth  of  this  month  ; 
if  sown  earlier  the  plants  would  be  very  subject  to  button  (as  the 
gardeners  term  it)  or  flower  in  April  or  early  in  May,  which  flow- 
ers seldom  exceed  the  size  of  a  common  button,  and  thereby  the 
hopes  and  expectations  of  the  cultivator  is  lost. 

I  would  recommend  to  sow  the  seed  at  three  different  periods, 
say  the  20,  24,  and  28th  of  this  month  ;  for  each  sowing  let  a  small 
spot  of  rich  ground  be  neatly  dug,  mark  out  the  bed  three  and  a 
half  feet  wide,  and  immediately  sow  the  seed  and  rake  it  in  care- 
fully ;  or  you  may  first  rake  the  bed  smooth,  and  with  the  back  of 
the  rake  push  the  loose  mould  evenly  off  the  surface,  for  near 
half  an  inch  deep  into  the  alleys,  one  half  to  each  side,  then  sow  the 
seed,  and  with  a  spade  or  shovel  cast  this  shoved  off  loose  earth 
over  it,  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep,  or  a  little  better:  arid  finish 
by  picking  off  the  lumps  or  small  stones  with  your  hand,  or  draw- 
ing them  off  neatly  and  lightly  with  the  rake  ;  or  you  may  sow 
the  seed  on  the  smooth  raked  surface,  and  sift  over  it  about  a  quar- 
ter of  an  inch  of  light  earth. 

Should  the  weather  prove  dry,  water  the  bed  both  before  and  af- 
ter the  plants  are  up,  and  in  a  month  after  sowing,  they  must  be 
transplanted  into  beds  of  good  rich  earth  covered  with  garden 
frames,  at  the  distance  of  three  inches  from  one  another,  there  to 
remain  during  winter, -and  to  be  taken  care  of  as  directed  in  the  fol- 
lowing months. 

In  the  southern  states,  the  most  forward  of  these,  may  be  finally 
planted  out  in  November,  as  directed  in  page  306,  and  covered 
with  bell  or  hand  glasses  during  winter,  but  in  the  middle,  or  eastern 
states  this  practice  will  not  succeed,  on  account  of  the  severity  of 
the  weather  at  that  season. 

If  the  plants  should  happen  to  be  late  and  of  a  weakly  growth, 
when  you  are  planting  them  into  frames  in  the  latter  end  of  Octo- 
ber, let  a  trench  be  dug  about  ten  inches  deep,  in  a  dry,  warm,  and 
well  sheltered  situation,  the  breadth  of  a  frame  and  the  length  of 
one,  two,  or  more,  according  to  the  quantity  of  plants  ;  then  fill  it 
in  with  new  horse  dung  to  the  height  of  eighteen  inches  from  the 
bottom,  and  set  on  the  frame  ;  earth  the  bed  over  five  or  six  inches 
deep  with  rich  earth,  and  set  the  plants  in  rows  three  inches  apart 
every  way,  immediately  give  them  a  moderate  watering  and  place 
on  the  glasses ;  observing  to  leave  them  open  about  four  or  five 
inches  at  top,  that  the  steam  may  pass  away. 

It  will  also  be  proper  to  lay  a  mat  over  the  glasses  in  sunny 
weather,  till  the  plants  have  taken  fresh  root ;  after  which  the  lights 
must  be  totally  taken  off  by  day,  till  the  weather  becomes  too  se- 
vere, and  every  advantage  must  subsequently  be  taken  to  give  the 
plants  as  much  air  as  possible,  consistent  with  their  preservation. 

The  plants  with  the  assistance  of  this  slight  bottom  heat,  will 
soon  tuke  root,  and  be  greatly  forwarded  thereby,  so  as  to  acquire 

3  p 


474  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.     „  [SEPT. 

a  due   degree    of  strength  before  the  setting  in  of  very    severe 
weather. 

Note.  Late  sown  cabbage  plants,  would  be  greatly  benefited  by 
treating  them  as  directed  above  for  Cauliflowers, 

Late  Cauliflotvers  and  Broccoli. 

If  the  weather  should  prove  dry,  give  occasional  waterings  to  the 
crops  of  late  cauliflowers  and  broccoli,  which  you  expect  to  flower  in 
October,  Sec.  otherwise  the  heads  will  be  small,  especially  if  the 
ground  is  naturally  dry. 

Welsh  Onion  Seed. 

Sow  some  Welsh  onion  seed  for  early  spring  sallad,  &c.  This 
kind  never  bulbs  and  is  very  hardy ;  for  although  the  tops  will 
sometimes  die  down  in  winter,  yet  the  roots  will  continue  sound, 
and  push  up  new  leaves  on  the  eve  of  the  first  spring  vegetation. 

It  will  be  necessary  to  sow  this  seed  in  the  first  week  of  the 
momh,  on  beds  of  light  rich  ground  in  a  warm  exposure,  and  af- 
terwards to  keep  the  rising  plants  perfectly  free  from  weeds. 

Mushrooms. 

This  is  a  proper  time  to  prepare  for  making  beds,  in  which  to 
cultivate  the  jlgaricus  cawfle&tris,  Champignon,  or  common  IVush- 
room.  Of  213  species  of  Agaricus,  enumerated  by  Er.  Withering^ 
this  is  the  only  one  selected  for  cultivating  in  gardens.  The  Gills 
of  this  are  loose,  of  a  pinky  red,  changing  to  liver  colour,  in  contact 
but  not  united  with  the  stem  ;  very  thick  set,  some  forked  next  the 
stem,  some  next  the  edge  of  the  cap,  some  «t  both  ends,  and  gene- 
ally  in  that  case  excluding  the  intermediate  smaller  gills.  CW/z, 
\vhite,  changing  to  brown  when  old,  and  becoming  scurfy,  fleshy, 
and  regularly  convex,  but  with  age  flat,  and  liquifying  in^decay  ; 
jlesh  white  :  diameter  commonly  from  one  inch  to  three  or 
sometimes  four  or  more.  Stem  solid,  one  to  three  inches  high, 
and  about  half  an  inch  in  diameter. 

I  consider  the  description  of  this  species  the  more  necessary,  as 
many  of  the  others  are  poisonous.  This  is  the  most  savory  of  the 
genus,  and  is  eaten  fresh,  either  stewed  or  boiled  ;  and  preserved 
either  as  a  pickle  or  in  powder.  The  sauce  commonly  called 
Catchufi  is  made  from  its  juice  with  salt  and  spices.  DR.  WITH- 
ERING asserts,  that  those  gathered  from  fresh  undunged  pastures, 
are  more  delicate  than  those  which  are  raised  in  artificial  beds. 
MR.  MILLER  is  of  a  different  opinion,  probably  because  the  culti- 
vated ones  are  more  sightly,  and  may  be  collected  more  easily  in  a 
proper  state  for  eating. 

It  will  be  necessary  in  the  early  part  of  this  month  to  provide  a 
quantity  of  fresh  horse  dung,  and  to  throw  it  up  in  a  heap  to  fer- 
ment j  when  it  has  lain  two  or  three  weeks  turn  it  again,  that  all 


SEPT.]  *     THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  475 

the  parts  may  be  equally  fermented,  and  the  violent  heat  passed 
away.  In  this  state  it  should  remain  till  about  the  first  week  of 
October,  when  the  bed  is  to  be  made  as  directed  in  that  month  ; 
or  the  preparation  may  commence  in  August,  and  the  beds  be 
made  any  time  this  month  at  pleasure. 

The  reason  for  the  previous  preparation  of  the  dung,  is  to  pre- 
vent a  too  violent  fermentation  when  the  bed  is  made,  which 
would  totally  destroy  the  spawn  ;  and  moreover,  by  this  manage- 
ment it  will  preserve  a  slow  temperate  warmth  much  longer  than 
if  put  tegether  when  quite  fresh. 

You  must  likewise  provide  a  sufficiency  of  good  mushroom 
spawn;  this  is  frequently  to  be  found  in  rich  pasture  fields,  old 
mushroom  beds,  old  cucumber  beds,  dung-hills  or  dungy  composts, 
but  that  of  the  true  kind  from  the  pastures,  or  old  mushroom  beds 
is  to  be  preferred  ;  it  may  also  be  found  where  horses  are  employed 
under  sheds  in  turning  mills,  riding  houses,  livery-stable  yards,  &c. 

The  spawn  is  a  white  fibrous  substance,  running  and  spreading 
itself  in  the  rich  pasture-grounds  and  in  lumps  of  dryish  rotten 
dung,  and  if  of  the  true  sort,  has  the  exact  smell  of  the  cultivated 
kind. 

Take  up  the  earth  or  dung  in  which  you  find  it,  in  lumps, 
observing  to  preserve  these  entire,  and  lay  them  in  a  dry  shady 
place  till  wanted  ;  you  may  cover  them  with  straw  or  garden  mats, 
for  much  wet  would  totally  destroy  the  spawn.  But  if  the  pieces 
are  wet  or  very  damp  when  collected,  they  must  be  spread  to  dry- 
gradually  ;  the  spawn  is  seldom,  if  ever,  destroyed  by  drought,  es- 
pecially, when  mixed  with  earth  or  dung.  For  the  method  of 
making  and  spawning  the  bed,  &c.  see  the  Kitchen-Garden  for 
October. 

Gather  Seeds. 

Gather  all  kinds  of  seeds  as  they  ripen,  which  may  be  necessary 
in  the  ensuing  season,  and  spread  them  to  dry  on  mats  or  cloths  ; 
when  sufficiently  hardened  beat  them  out,  clean,  and  put  them  up 
carefully  till  wanted  for  sowing. 

Perennial  Herds. 


Towards  the  latter  end  of  this  month,  you  may  safely  transplant, 
*11  kinds  of  hardy  perennial  pot,  aromatic,  and  medicinal  herbs, 
which  will  take  fresh  root  and  be  well  established  before  winter;  but 
this  should  be  done,  if  possible,  in  moist  weather. 

Southern  States. 

In  the  southern  states,  particularly,  where  the  winters  are  mild, 
you  may  sow  at  this  time,  carrots,  and  onions  for  early  spring  use, 
as  well  as  all  the  other  articles  recommended  to  be  sown  in  this 
month  ;  and  also  plant  out  late  crops  of  borecole,  broccoli,  celery, 
cabbages  for  winter,  coleworts,  endive,  Sec.  &c. 


476 


THE  FRUIT-GARDEN. 


Fruit  Trees. 

EXAMINE  your  wall  and  espalier  trees,  and  where  you  find  any- 
long  loose  branches,  train  them  in  and  make  them  firm  in  their  pro- 
per places. 

The  early  kinds  of  fruit  trees  against  the  walls  of  your  forcing- 
houses  should,  towards  the  end  of  this  month,  be  pruned  and  trained 
close  to  the  wall  or  treillis,  that  their  buds  may  be  preparing  be- 
fore the  season  for  applying  artificial  heat. 

Gathering  ripe  Fruit. 

Gather  apples  arid  pears  as  they  ripen,  and  treat  them  as  directed, 
under  the  head  Orchard  for  next  month. 

Prepare  for  Planting. 

Begin  towards  the  end  of  this  month  to  prepare  the  borders,  &c. 
in  which  you  intend  to  plant  fruit  trees,  in  October  or  November  ; 
it  is  of  consequence  to  add  a  good  supply  of  thoroughly  rotted  dung, 
and  to  trench  the  ground  to  the  dep.th  of  eighteen  inches  or  two 
feet,  provided,  that  the  natural  good  soil  admits  thereof. 

Strawberries. 

Of  the  Fragaria  -vexed,  or  Esculent  Strawberry,  there  are  five 
principal  varieties  cultivated  in  gardens  for  their  very  delicious 
fruit.  1.  F.-virginiana,  or  scarlet  strawberry.  2.  F.  vesca pratcn- 
*/«,  of  Alton.)  or  hautboy  strawberry.  3.  F.  chiloensis,  or  Chili 
strawberry.  4.  F.  Alpina,  Alpine  or  monthly  strawberry,  and, 
5.  F.  Ananas,  or  pine-apple  strawberry.  There  are  besides  these, 
the  varieties  sylvestris,  or  common  wood  strawberry,  and  caro- 
lin!anar  or  Carolina  strawberry,  with  many  others,  arising  from 
these,  differing  principally  in  the  colour  of  their  fruit. 

The  first,  or  scarlet  Strawberry,  has  dark  green  leaves  and  of  a 
more  even  surface  than  the  others  ;  the  flowering  stems  are  shorter, 
and  the  fruit  is  frequently  concealed  among  the  leaves.  It  is  the 
earliest  in  ripening  its  fruit,  for  which  reason  it  merits  esteem,  had 
it  nothing  else  to  recommend  it ;  but  the  fruit  is  so  good  as  to  be 
generally  preferred  to  most  others. 

The  second,  or  hautboy  strawberry,  has  larger  and  thicker  leaves 
than  the  scarlet,  oval-lanceolate,  and  rough  ;  the  fruit  is  of  a  pale 


SEPT.]  THE  FRUIT-GARDEN.  477 

red,  much  larger  than  the  scarlet,  and  of  a  musky  flavour  ;  of  which 
there  are  several  varieties  differing  in  shape  and  colour,  but  that 
called  die  globe  hautboy  is  the  best  and  most  improved  fruit. 

The  third,  or  Chili  Strawberry,  has  oval  hairy  leaves,  of  a  much 
thicker  substance  than  any  sort  yet  known,  and  stand  upon  very 
strong  hairy  foot-stalks  ;  the  runners  from  the  plants  are  very  large, 
hairy,  and  extend  to  a  great  length,  putting  out  plants  at  several 
distances.  The  peduncles  are  very  strong  ;  the  leaves  of  the  calyx 
are  long  and  hairy.  The  flowers  are  large  and  are  often  deformed,  and 
when  cultivated  in  strong  loamy  land,  the  plants  produce  plenty  of 
large,  firm,  well  flavoured  fruit,  in  a  light  soil  this  kind  is  not  gene- 
rally very  productive. 

The  fourth,  or  Alpine  Strawberry,  has  small  oval  leaves,  small 
flowers,  and  middle-sized,  oblong,  pointed  fruit;  the  plants  and  fruit  are 
considerably  larger  than  the  wood  strawberry,  and  are  particularly 
valuable  for  their  continuing  to  bear  fruit  successively,  from  June 
till  the  autumn  frosts  put  a  stop  to  them,  but  with  the  help  of  hot- 
beds, Sec.  they  may  be  kept  in  a  bearing  state  the  whole  year  round. 
The  reason  of  its  long  continuance  in  fruit  is,  that  the  runners  which 
it  throws  out  during  the  summer,  shoot  up  into  flowers  and  fruit 
the  same  year.  Of  this  there  are  four  varieties,  the  scarlet  fruited, 
red  fruited,  white  fruited  and  scarlet  blossomed.  This  is  said  to  be  a 
native  of  the  Alps,  in  Europe. 

The  fifth,  or  Pine-Apple  Strawberry,  has  leaves  which  much  re- 
semble those  of  the  scarlet  strawberry;  but  are  larger,  of  a  thicker 
substance,  and  the  indentures  of  their  edges  are  blunter :  the  run- 
ners are  much  larger  and  hairy :  the  peduncles  are  stronger,  the 
flowers  much  larger,  and  the  fruit  approaches  in  size,  shape,  and 
colour,  to  the  Chili  strawberry.  As  this  produces  a  great  quantity 
of  fruit,  when  the  plants  are  kept  clear  from  runners  (and  the  fruit 
is  very  large)  it  is  well  worthy  of  cultivation.  The  fruit  of  this 
variety  has  somewhat  of  the  smell  and  taste  of  the  Pine-apple,  from 
whence  it  takes  its  name. 

In  the  cultivation  of  strawberries,  much  depends  upon  the 
choice  of  plants  ;  for  if  they  are  promiscuously  taken  from  the  beds 
without  care,  a  great  number  of  them  will  become  barren  ;  these 
are  by  the  gardeners  termed  blind,  which  is  when  there  are  plenty 
of  flowers  but  no  fruit  produced  ;  if  these  flowers  are  well  examined 
they  will  be  found  to  want  the  female  organs  of  generation,  most  of 
them  abounding  with  stamina,  but  there  are  few,  if  any  styles  ;  so 
that  it  frequently  happens  among  these  barren  plants,  that  some  of 
them  have  a  part  of  an  imperfect  fruit  formed,  which  will  some- 
times ripen.  The  Hautboy  strawberry  is  more  subject  to  this,  than 
any  of  the  other  kinds.  The  plants  of  either  sort  should  never  be 
taken  from  old  neglected  beds,  where  the  stools  had  been  suffered 
to  spread  or  run  into  a  confused  multitude  of  vines,  nor  from  any 
plants  which  are  not  very  fruitful;  and  those  offsets  which  stand 
nearest  to  the  old  plants,  should  always  be  preferred. 

Strawberries  in  general  love  a  strong  loamy  ground,  in  which 
they  will  thrive,  and  bear  fruit  more  abundantly  than  in  a  light 
soil.  The  ground  should  be  somewhat  moist,  for  if  it  is  very  dry, 


478  THE  FRUIT-GARDEN.  [SEPT. 

all  the  watering  which  is  given  to  the  plants  in  warm  dry  seasons, 
will  not  be  sufficient  to  procure  abundant  crops  ;  nor  should  the 
ground  be  made  overly  rick  with  dung,  for  that  would  cause  the 
plants  to  run  into  suckers,  grow  too  luxuriant,  and  render  them  less 
fruitful. 

Any  time  this  month  that  the  weather  proves  moist,  you  should 
take  advantage  of  it,  for  making  your  general  plantations  of 
strawberries  ;  but  if  dry  and  hot,  it  will  be  better  to  defer  that  work 
to  the  last  week  thereof,  or  first  in  October;  not  later  if  pos- 
sible, as  the  plants  will  be  greatly  benefittedby  having  time  to  form 
good  roots  before  winter.  But  should  the  weather  then  prove  un- 
favourable you  should  proceed  to  planting,  after  which,  plentiful 
and  frequent  waterings  must  be  given,  till  the  plants  are  well 
rooted. 

The  sets  proper  for  planting  at  this  time,  are  those  produced, 
in  the  present  year,  from  the  young  runners  ;  selecting  them  as 
before  noticed  ;  or  such  as  were  taken  off  in  June  and  transplanted 
into  nursery  beds.  When  taken  up,  the  roots  should  be  trimmed, 
the  decayed  leaves  picked  off,  and  also  any  small  vines  or  runners 
issuing  from  the  plants. 

The  ground  should  be  well  dug  and,  if  necessary,  previously 
manured  with  a  sufficiency  of  old  well  rotted  dung,  then  laid  out 
into  four  feet  wide  beds,  with  alleys  between,  of  eighteen  or  twenty 
inches,  for  the  convenience  of  going  in  occasionally  to  weed  and 
water  the  plants,  and  to  gather  the  fruit.  Each  bed  is  to  contain 
four  rows  of  plants,  the  large  kinds  eighteen  inches  distant  in  the 
rows,  and  t.ie  small  sorts  fifteen.  Close  the  earth  well  about  the 
roots  of  each  plant,  and  when  finished,  water  the  whole  plentifully, 
should  the  weather  happen  to  be  dry  at  the  time. 

Tiie  old  strawberry  beds  will  require  to  be  kept  clear  from  large 
overgrown  weeds,  and  in  October  are  to  have  their  autumn  dressing 
as  there  directed. 

N.  B.  If  you  intend  to  force  strawberries  in  the  winter  or  early 
spring  months,  this  is  the  time  to  pot  them  for  that  purpose. 
The  alpine  and  scarletkinds  are  the  best  for  forcing;  they  should  be 
strong  plants,  of  two  years  old,  and  in  a  proper  state  for  full  bearing. 
Provide  as  many  pots  of  about  seven  inches  diameter  at  top,  and 
made  in  proportion,  as  you  think  may  be  sufficient,  and  at  the  same 
time  get  some  good  loamy  earth,  made  fine  with  the  spade,  place 
a  few  inches  thereof  into  the  bottom  of  each  pot,  previously  laying 
a  shell  over  each  hole  as  directed  on  former  occasions,  then  take  up 
each  plant  with  a  ball  of  earth  to  its  roots,  pare  the  ball  neatly  round 
with  the  knife,  clear  the  plant  from  decayed  leaves  and  runners, 
place  it  in  the  pot  and  fill  up  the  spaces  round  the  sides  and  over 
the  surface  of  the  ball  with  fine  earth.  Water  the  whole  when  pot- 
ted, and  remove  them  to  the  shade  for  eight  or  ten  days,  till  newly 
rooted  ;  then  you  may  plunge  them  to  their  rims  in  any  open  part 
of  the  garden,  there  to  remain,  watering  them  occasionally,  till  the 
approach  of  winter,  when  the  pots  are  to  be  placed  under  the  pro- 
tection of  frames  and  glasses,  till  taken  into  the  forcing  depart- 
ments. 


SEPT.]  THE  VINEYARD.  479 

This  practice  is  absolutely  necessary  in  the  middle  and  eastern 
states,  as,  during  winter,  the  earth  is  so  hard  frozen  as  to  render  it  | 
impracticable  to  take  up  the  plants  out  of  the  open   ground,     when; 
wanted,  without  injury  ;  moreover,  when  they  are  potted  at  this  | 
season,  their  roots    will  be  well  established,  before    the  time  of 
forcing  commences,  and   consequently   the  ptants  will   be   much 
more  productive  of  fruit. 


THE  ORCHARD. 


Collecting  ripe  Fruit. 

APPLES  and  pears  that  attain  now  to  full  maturity,  rarely  keep 
as  well  as  those  which  ripen  in  the  ensuing  month,  but  when  it  is 
desirable  to  preserve  them  as  long  as  possible ;  they  must  be  treated 
as  directed  in  October. 

Wh~-n  planting  of  fruit-trees  is  intended  in  the  months  of  Octo- 
ber, or  November,  opportunity  ought  to  be  taken  of  any  leisure 
time  that  may  now  occur,  for  the  preparation  of  the  ground  as  di- 
rected in  March,  under  the  head  Orchard. 


THE  VINEYARD. 


I  am  very  happy  in  having  it  in  my  power  to  exhibit  to  my  fellow 
citizens  and  the  public,  the  annexed  comparative  and  very  interest- 
ing table  of  the  progress  of  vegetation  in  Pennsylvania,  Paris,  the 
ci-devant  Champagne  and  Burgundy ;  the  more  especially,  as  it 
proves  the  decided  advantage  we  possess,  of  a  full  month,  in  the 
season  of  our  vintage,  over  those  famous  wine  countries.  It  also, 
exhibits  the  medium  temperature  of  heat  in  Pennsylvania,  the  West 
Indies,  Paris,  Champagne,  Lorrain,  Arras,  Brussels,  and  Stockholm 
in  Europe,  Algiers  in  Africa,  and  Pondicherry  in  Asia,  which,  no 
doubt,  will  be  very  interresting  to  Meteorologists  and  other  men 
of  science.  But  it  is  of  peculiar  importance,  on  account  of  it« 


480  THE  VINEYARD.  [SEPT. 

forming  a  step  towards  the  ascertaining  of  the  relative  degrees  of 
heat  and  cold,  Sec.  in  the  various  climates  of  the  United  States,  which 
in  practical  horticulture  and  agriculture,  is  of  considerable  mo- 
ment, and  the  want  of  such  information  to  me,  in  the  writing  of 
this  treatise,  is  a  loss  which  I  greatly  deplore.  Without  well  au- 
thenticated information  in  this  respect,  there  is  no  knowing  what 
allowance  to  make  for  the  difference  of  season  in  one  climate  from 
that  of  another,  and  consequently,  the  gardener  or  farmer  in  a  dis- 
tant state  of  the  Union,  will  not  know  how  to  avail  himself  of  the 
practical  experiments  made  in  a  nother,  without  running  a  hazard, 
that  may  prove  unsuccessful,  and  ultimately  deter  him  from  the 
further  pursuit  of  an  object,  perhaps,  of  the  first  importance, 
merely  for  want  of  a  due  knowledge  of  the  proper  allowance  to  be 
made  for  the  difierence  of  season.  Therefore,  it  would  be  of  se- 
rious advantage,  were  such  observations  to  be  made  in  every  state 
of  the  Union,  and  confined  principally,  to  such  perennial  and  per- 
manent vegetable  production,  as  are  common  to  all,  or  to  the  grea- 
ter number.  I  would  propose  some  of  these,  but  as  there  are  so  many 
Agricultural  societies  established,  I  am  apprehensive  that  it  might 
be  deemed  presumptive  in  an  individual.  However,  I  shall 'make 
observations  on  various  plants  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Philadel- 
phia, as  to  the  progress  of  vegetation,  and  with  pleasure  communi- 
cate the  result  to  those  whom  a  desire  for  public  utility,  or  a  recipro- 
city of  advantages,  may  stimulate  to  similar  exertions. 

The  public  are  indebted,  for  the  annexed  table  to  that  indefati- 
gable Meteorologist  and  very  worthy  member  of  society,  MR. 
PETKU  LKGAUX  of  Spring  Mill,  near  Philadelphia ;  it  being  the 
result  of  fourteen  years  observations  made  by  him  at  said  place, 
and  for  four  years  at  Guadaloupein  the  West  Indies;  as  well  as  thp.t 
of  seventy  years  made  at  the  observatory  in  Paris,  andat  the  respec- 
tive places,  by  other  meteorologists. 

Protecting  the  Fruit. 

Your  early  varieties  of  grapes  will  now  be  ripening  very  fast,  and 
will  sometimes  be  subject  to  the  annoyance  of  birds,  which  are 
more  apt  to  attack  the  fruit  a  little  before  sun  rising  and  about  the 
time  of  its  setting,  than  in  any  other  part  of  the  day ;  it  will  be, 
therefore,  prudent,  to  have  boys  with  rattles  to  frighten  them  away, 
particularly  about  those  hours. 

You  should,  also,  destroy  poke,  wild  cherries,  and  any  other  un- 
cultivated productions  growing  near  the  Vineyard,  the  fruit  of 
which  might  invite  a  resort  of  birds.  Should  you  observe  an  extra- 
ordinary resort  of  wasps  in  any  quarter,  and  that  they  are  destruc- 
tive to  tlvj  fruit,  hang  up  phials  of  honeyed  or  sugared  water  in 
such  places,  jn  which,  numbers  of  them  will  be  caught  and  des- 
troyed. 

The  ground  between  your  vines  must  now  be  kept  perfectly 
free  from  weeds,  and  all  the  branches  tied  up  neatly,  in  order  to 
afford  the  fruit  th-  full  advantage  of  air  and  sun,  for  its  due  perfec- 
tion. 


SEPT.]  THE  VINEYARD.  43 1 


The  method  of  making  white  Wines. 

In  the  middle  states,  the  general  vintage  will  happen  some  time 
in  this  month,  earlier  or  later  according  to  the  season  ;  it  will, 
therefore,  be  necessary  to  be  provided  with  a  sufficient  number  of 
clean,  sweet  casks,  new,  if  for  white  wines,  to  prevent  their  colour- 
ing the  liquor,  but  red  wines  may  be  put  into  any  casks,  without 
injury,  provided  they  are  sweet  and  clean.  You  must  also  be  pro- 
vided with  a  vat  for  mashing  the  fruit  in,  and  with  a  suitable  con- 
trivance for  pressing  out  the  juice. 

Let  it  be  observed  that  white  wines  are  made  from  black  as  well  as 
from  white  grapes,  that  the  former,  generally  makes  the  strongest  and 
best  wines,  and  that  it  is  from  the  skin  of  the  black  grapes,  when 
fermented  with  the  juice  and  fmlfa  that  the  red  tinge  is  obtained. 

When  you  perceive  the  grapes  to  be  fit  for  gathering,  which  you 
may  judge  of  by  the  eye  and  taste,  for  when  perfectly  fit  for  eating, 
they  are  then  in  the  best  condition  for  making  wine  ;  make  choice 
of  cloudy  weather,  if  such  should  occur,  and  early  in  the  morning, 
or  very  late  in  the  afternoon,  being  provided  with  a  sufficient 
number  of  careful  people,  each  furnished  with  a  basket  to  hold  the 
fruit,  and  a  crooked  pointed  knife  or  a  pair  of  strong  scissars  to  cut 
off  the  bunches,  let  them  begin  their  work,  collecting  only  such 
bunches  as  are  open,  ripe  and  perfectly  sound,  passing  over  all  that 
are  green,  not  matured,  dry,  rotten  or  bursted.  The  stalk  of  every 
bunch  should  be  cut  off  close  to  the  fruit,  and  the  bunches  laid  gently 
into  the  basket  without  bruising  or  pressing  them  together. 

The  grapes  which  are  not  sufficiently  ripe,  must  be  gathered  at 
another  time,  and  treated  in  like  manner. 

As  the  grapes  are  collected,  they  must  be  immediately  carried  to 
the  press  or  vat,  for  the  sooner  they  are  pressed  after  gathering, 
the  finer  and  whiter  the  wine  will  be,  and  not  only  that,  but  it  will 
be  more  mellow,  have  a  more  exquisite  flavour,  and  be  greater  in 
quantity. 

As  your  Vat  is  a  filling,  the  grapes  are  to  be  trampled  and  mash- 
ed effectually  by  men,  having  their  legs  and  feet  previously  washed 
very  clean  ;  then  let  your  machine  for  pressing  fall  down  thereon, 
which  will  force  out  the  liquor  plentifully,  having  a  cask  conve- 
niently placed  to  receive  it. 

When  the  liquor  ceases  to  run  from  the  press,  raise  it  and  cut 
up  the  cake  to  pieces  with  steel  shovels,  and  press  it  again,  together 
with  all  the  loose  grapes. that  happened  to  be  scattered,  and  you 
will  have  another  plentiful  running  of  good  liquor. 

This  is  called  wine  of  the  first  cutting,  which  will  be  of  a  fine 
cblour  and  flavour,  little  inferior  to  the  other,  having  a  stronger 
body,  and  will  keep  longer  than  that  of  the  first  pressing; 

The  cutting  and  pressing  is  to  be  repeated,  as  often  as  you  find 
the  liquor  to  run,  and  that  from  the  second  and  third  cutting  will  be 
still  good,  of  a  sufficient  body  to  keep  for  a  length  of  time,  and 
with  age  will  acquire  mellowness  and  an  improved  flavour. 


482  THE  VINEYARD.  [SEPT. 

The  liquor  which  first  runs  from  the  grapes  without  any  other 
violence  than  the  weight  of  the  press,  is  called,  Ic  -vin  de  gout^  and 
is  fine,  thin,  and  lively,  of  a  pleasant  flavour  and  relish,  appears 
sparkling  in  the  glass,  but  has  not  body  enough  to  keep  a  long  time 
without  being  mixed ;  but  when  incorporated  with  that  obtained 
from  the  first,  second,  and  third  cuttings,  it  makes  then,  what  is 
called  the  best  Champaign. 

The  different  pressings  being  mixed  as  you  think  proper,  should 
be  immediately  put  into  clean  casks  or  hogsheads,  placed  in  a 
warm  room  or  dry  cellar,  and  filled  to  within  two  inches  of  thebung- 
holes,  which  should  be  covered  with  pieces  of  cloth,  laid  loosely  on, 
to  prevent  dirt  from  falling  into  the  liquor. 

It  is  to  be  observed  that  the  finest  wines  ferment  the  soonest,  the 
rest  in  proportion  to  their  goodness.  The  first  cask  that  ferments, 
take  some  of  the  froth  which  works  therefrom,  and  put  a  little  of  it 
into  those  casks  which  are  backward  in  fermenting,  which  will 
greatly  help  their  working. 

The  fermentation  may  continue  for  eight,  ten,  or  twelre  days,  or 
some  time  longer,  according  to  the  season,  or  quality  of  the  Musty 
but  at  whatever  time  you  perceive  it  to  cease,  which  you  will  see 
by  the  froth  not  rising  as  before,  fill  your  casks  within  about  an 
inch  or  two  of  the  top  and  bung  them  up  tight,  opening  at  the  same 
time  a  small  vent-hole  to  carry  off  what  may  be  thrown  up  by 
the  fermentation's  not  being  quite  ceased. 

Continue  to  fill  up  your  casks  every  three  or  four  days,  as  before, 
until  the  fermentation  completely  ceases,  lest  the  foulness  which 
should  work  through  the  vent-holes,  sink  down  for  want  of  pas- 
sage and  foul  the  wines.  When  all  appearance  of  fermentation  is 
over,  fill  the  casks  and  stop  the  vent-holes  ;  however,  open  the 
latter  occasionally  whilst  there  is  any  chance  of  the  liquor  continuing 
to  work.  Observation  and  discretion  will  best  guide  on  these  occa- 
sions. 

About  the  middle  of  December,  or  so  soon  as  the  wines  have 
settled  and  become  clear,  draw  them  off  into  new,  well  bound  casks, 
previously  well  impregnated  with  salt  and  water,  to  extract  the  in- 
jurious bitterness  of  the  wood ;  after  which,  rinse  the  casks  with 
fair  water,  and  an  infusion  of  peach  leaves  or  flowers,  fill  them  quite 
full  and  bung  them  as  tight  as  possible.  Repeat  this  racking  off  in 
February,  and  likewise  in  the  latter  end  of  March  ;  after  which  it- 
may  remain  so  till  bottled,  desposed  of,  or  used. 

You  must  be  particularly  careful  in  racking  off  the  wine,  to 
draw  it  as  clear  as  possible  from  the  lees,  which  will  render  it  brisk, 
lively,  and  sparkling  in  the  glass  ;  while  the  contrary,  produces  a 
muddy  dreg,  or  sediment,  which  makes  the  wine  thick,  dull,  and 
sometimes  ropy  ;  and  besides,  when  drawn  off  foul,  principles  ca- 
pable of  maintaining  fermentation,  would  be  introduced  into  the 
hogshead,  which  would  be  productive  of  the  decomposition  of  the 
sacharine  part,  and  consequently,  deprive  the  wine  of  its  sweetness. 

The  lees  after  the  wine  is  racked  off,  may  be  distilled  for  brandy, 
and  also  the  cakes  of  pulp  and  skins,  after  being  pressed  and  then  pro- 
perly fermented. 


SEPT.]  THE  VINEYARD.  433 


The  method  of  making  Red  Wines 

Red  wines  must  always  be  made  from  black  grapes,  for  besides 
the  main  pulp  or  core  which  is  white  in  these,  as  well  as  others, 
there  sticks  to  the  inside  of  the  skin  a  considerable  body  of  rich 
pulp  of  a  deep  red,  more  so  in  some  kinds  than  others  ;  this 
gives  the  colour  to  the  wine,  when  extracted  by  a  due  process  of 
fermentation.  The  colour  of  red  wine  is  said  to  be  heightened  by 
gathering  the  grapes  in  the  heat  of  the  day,  but  this  is  productive 
of  a  considerable  deficiency  in  the  quantity,  though  the  quality  may 
be  improved  thereby. 

Taking  these  considerations  into  view,  your  grapes  are  to  be 
collected  with  the  same  care  as  before  directed  in  the  making  of 
white  wines,  and  having  a  sufficient  quantity  gathered. 

Put  them  into  the  vat,  by  degrees,  treading  and  mashing  them 
affectually  as  you  fill  it,  till  quite  full  and  the  liquor  floating  above 
them  ;  then  work  the  pulp  and  the  liquor  effectually  together,  leav- 
ing all  the  parts  as  loose  as  possible,  and  so  let  it  remain  to  ferment. 

You  ought  to  be  provided  with  a  cover  for  the  top  of  the  vat, 
perforated  with  holes  and  made  so  as  to  easily  slip  down  into  it  and 
sink  a  little  under  the  superfices  of  the  liquor,  to  keep  the  skins 
and  pulpy  parts  from  coming  in  contact  with  the  air  during  the  pro- 
cess of  fermentation  ;  for  when  this  is  exposed,  and  it  tends  to  swim 
on  the  top,  it  very  shortly  becomes  acid)  and  communicating  this^to 
the  liquor  greatly  injures  it.  As  the  skins  give  the  colour  to  the 
wine,  nothing  is  better  than  the  keeping  of  them  down,  without  pres- 
sing, during  this  process,  for  to  believe  that  these  and  other  dregs 
floating  on  the  top,  impede  the  evaporation  of  the  spirit,  is  a  thing 
improbable,  since  it  requires  a  good  cork  to  stop  it. 

The  moment  of  drawing  off  the  wine  is  of  great  import,  but 
generally,  however,  without  rule.  It  would  be  impossible  to  pre- 
scribe a  certain  number  of  days  for  an  operation  liable  to  so  many 
vicissitudes,  as  much  through  the  qualities  of  the  grapes,  as  other  cir- 
cumstances. But  as  the  great  object  of  fermentation  is  the  conver- 
sion of  the  Must  or  expressed  juice  into  wine,  no  drawing  should  take 
place  until  that  is  effected.  This  moment  which  might  appear  un- 
certain may  be  ascertained  with  tolerable  precision  by  means  of  a 
tin  tube  open  at  one  end  and  perforated  all  over  with  holes  of  a 
small  size,  that  the  grains  or  stones  of  the  fruit  may  not  pass  through 
when  dipped  into  the  vat,  inside  of  this  a  small  wooden  cylinder 
must  be  placed,  upheld  at  its  bottom  by  a  cork  plate  that  can  work 
up  and  down  freely  in  the  tube  :  this  instrument  is  to  be  plunged 
into  the  vat  and  kept  there,  the  liquor  getting  in  through  the  holes 
of  the  tube,  will  rise  the  cork  to  its  surface,  to  which  cork  the 
wooden  pin  or  cylinder  is  affixed.  This  latter,  must  be  marked  in 
different  heights,  which  will  be  seen  to  rise,  as  the  vinous  fermenta- 
tion increases. 

With  this  instrument  the  precise  moment  in  which  the  wine 
is  to  be  drawn  off  may  be  established  with  great  exactness ;  this  is 
generally  done  whengthe  cylinder  has  attained  to  the  highest  and  be^ 


484  THE  VINEYARD.  [SEPT. 

come  stationary,  the  fermenting  mass  always  swelling  in  bulk  till 
the  vinous  fermentation  is  completely  accomplished,  becoming 
then  stationary,  previous  to  the  commencement  of  an  acetous  fer- 
mentation and  sinking  with  that,  which  if  suffered  without  draw- 
ing off  the  liquor,  would  ruin  all.  BERTHOLET  and  other  authors 
recommend,  not  to  draw  off  the  wine  till  you  are  able  to  perceive 
the  cylinder  begin  to  lower  a  little. 

When  the  liquor  is  drawn  off  into  clean  sweet  casks,  place  them 
in  the  cellar,  fill  them  up  wj  thin  an  inch  or  two  of  the  top,  and  lay  a 
piece  of  leather  with  a  sm  all  weight  on  it  over  each  bung-hole 
that  may  yield  to  a  second  fermentation,  which  generally  takes 
place.  When  the  wine  has  settled  or  ceased  to  ferment,  bung  the 
casks  as  close  as  possible,  and  the  subsequent  treatment  is  exactly 
the  same  as  directed  for  white  wines. 

In  the  making  of  red  wines  it  is  customary  to  mix  with  the 
fruit,  a  small  portion  of  what  is  called  the  Claret  grape,  to  heighten 
the  colour,  as  the  entire  juice  of  this  variety,  is  of  a  deep  red. 

It  is  also  customary,  and  even  necessary,  with  wine  of  a  weak 
body  made  from  newly  established  Vineyards,  or  from  worn  out 
old  ones,  to  add  two  or  three  gallons  of  very  nice  brandy,  and  five 
or  six  of  old  strong  wine  of  the  same  colour,  and  as  near  the  in- 
tended flavour  as  possible  to  every  hogshead  of  60  or  63  gallons  of 
the  new  wine;  this  is  usually  done  after  the  fermentation  is  over. 

In  Spain  and  other  parts  of  Europe,  if  the  season  proves  wet,  or 
if  they  think  the  Must  or  expressed  juice  too  replete  with  watry 
particles,  they  boil  the  whole,  or  part  thereof,  to  evaporate  the 
superabundance,  but  this  is  done  immediately  after  the  juice  is 
expressed,  before  the  least  fermentation  takes  place. 

The  evaporation  ought  not  to  be  by  an  intense  ebulition,  and 
although  the  fire  may  be  ardent,  the  ebulition  may  be  prevented  by 
pouring  some  cold  Must  into  the  kettle  every  time  you  perceive  it 
ready  to  boil. 

The  acid  contained  in  the  Must  being  capable  of  desolving  cop- 
per and  converting  it  into  verdigrease,  you  must,  therefore,  be 
carefu  1  not  to  boil  it  in  any  kettle  but  such  as  is  perfectly  well 
tinned,  and  ome  people,  after  cleaning  the  inside  effectually,  rub  it 
all  over  with  a  wollen  rag  dipped  in  sweet  oil ;  if  these  precautions 
are  neglected,  the  dissolution  of  the  copper  will  give  a  disagreea- 
ble brass  taste  to  the  wine*  and  perhaps  render  it  pernicious  to  the 
health  of  those  who  drink  it. 

The  kettle  should  be  large,  wide  in  the  mouth  and  flat  in  the  bot- 
tom, which  will  produce  a  saving  in  the  consumption  of  fuel  and 
expedite  the  process. 

The  whole  of  the  Must  may  be  boiled,  or  if  only  a  part  thereof 
be  so  reduced,  this  should  be  mixed  with  the  remainder,  and,  if 
intended  for  white  wine,  p«t  into  casks  to  undergo  the  process  of 
vinous  fermentation,  as  before  noticed.  But  if  designed  for  red 
wine,  it  must  be  poured  into  the  vat,  when  of  a  temperate  degree  of 
heat,  on  the  pulp  and  skins,  there  to  undergo  with  them  the  neces- 
sary degree  of  fermentation,  to  extract  the  colour  and  to  form  the 
wine ;  after  which  it  is  to  be  treated  as  before  directed ;  observing  to 


SEPT.]  THE  VINEYARD.  435 

take  similar  pains  in  pressing  the  juice  out  of  the  pulp,  when  suf- 
ficiently fermented,  as  recommended  under  the  article  white  wines, 
but  this  will  not  be  so  difficult. 

The  antiquity  of  the  practice  of  boiling  the  Must  may  be  inferred 
from  the  following  story  related  by  MUTARDI-BEN-GASIF  an  Ara- 
bian Author. 

"  NOAH  being  come  out  of  the  Ark,  he  commanded  each  of  his 
sons  to  build  a  house  :  they  afterwards  busied  themselves  in  sowing 
and  planting  trees,  for  which  they  had  found  kernels  and  necessary 
fruits  in  the  Ark.  NOAH  wanted  the  Vine  only,  nor  could  he  ever 
find  it.  GABRIEL  then  gave  him  notice,  that  it  was  the  DEVIL  who 
had  stolen  it  away,  because  he  had  a  right  to  it.  NOAH  made  him 
come  forward  immediately,  and  said  to  him  ;  Oh  !  thou  accursed  I 
wherefore  hast  thou  carried  the  Vine  away  from  me  ?  because  it 
cloth  belong  to  me,  quoth  SATAN.  Share  it  betwixt  you  replies 
GABRIEL.  I  agree  to  that,  continued  NOAH,  and  I'll  let  him  have 
the  one  fourth.  That  will  not  be  sufficient  for  him  replied  GABRIEL. 
Well  !  I  am  willing  said  NOAH  to  take  one  half  and  he  may  have 
the  other.  That  is  not  still  enough  said  GABRIEL  ;  he  must  have 
two  thirds  of  it  and  thou  only  one,  and  thy  Must  shall  be  boiled  on 
the  fire,  until  it  has  consumed  up  the  two  thirds,  the  use  of  the  re- 
mainder shall  be  granted  unto  thee." 

What  a  pity  !  that  MUTARDI-BEM-GASIF  did  not  inform  us  of 
the  progress  made  by  his  SATANIC  MAJESTY  in  the  cultivation  of 
the  Vine,  to  whom  GABRIEL'S  favours  had  been  extended  so  very 
bountifully,  even  not  to  the  injunction  of  boiling  his  Must. 

General  Remarks. 

Ideal  as  well  as  intrinsic  qualities,  cause  one  kind  of  wine  to 
be  preferred  to  another,  so  that  one  nation  or  country  admires 
what  another  does  not  like,  or  perhaps  despises  ;  and  even  this  ideal 
fancy  is  not  uncommon  among  individuals  of  the  same  country, 
town,  or  place  ;  consequently,  it  would  be  well  to  know  how  to  vary 
the  properties  of  wine  according  to  fancy. 

If  a  taste  of  wine  slightly  acid,  similar  to  that  of  the  Rhenish  is 
desired,  sometartarous  acid  maybe  added  to  the  Must. 

If  the  wine  is  required  sweet,  the  Must  should  be  drained  in  such 
a  manner,  that  it  may  retain  as  little  as  possible  of  the  lees,  and  let 
it  afterwards  ferment  of  itself.  Some  sugared  matter  might  be 
joined  with  it. 

If  the  wine  should  be  wanted  delicate  and  of  a  light  colour,  the 
Must  should  not  be  suffered  to  have  a  long  action  on  the  lees, 
from  which'  it  takes  principles  that  augment  the  fermentation,  and 
desolve  in  consequence  the  mucilaginous  parts,  together  with  the 
colouring  matter. 

Should  a  strong  wine  of  good  body  be  preferred,  the  Must 
ought  to  be  suffered  to  remain  the  longer  on  the  dregs,  in  case 
the  grapes  do  not  afford  it  of  sufficient  strength.  Or  the  boiling  of 
the  Must  in  the  manner  before  observed,  will  accomplish  this. 


486  THE  VINEYARD.  [SEPT. 

If  besides  it  be  desired  to  have  a  heady,  or  intoxicating  wine,  add 
some  tartar  and  sugarded  matter  to  the  Must)  which  will  produce  a 
greater  portion  of  spirit. 

If  the  wine  be  required  to  have  a  great  deal  of  body,  add,  after 
the  ceasing  of  the  fermentation,  a  fresh  sugared  matter,  such  as 
strong  Must  deprived  of  its  tartar. 

It  has  been  suggested  to  me,  that  exposing  the  casks  of  weak 
wine  to  the  winter  frost,  till  the  watry  particles  contained  in  the 
liquor  are  converted  into  ice,  and  then  drawing  off  the  pure  wine, 
would  be  the  best  method  of  giving  it  a  sufficient  body.  If  this 
answers  the  end,  and  it  is  very  probable  it  may,  as  pure  wine 
requires  a  much  greater  degree  of  cold  to  freeze  it  than  water,  the 
middle  and  eastern  states  of  the  Union  possess  an  advantage,  in  that 
respect,  over  most  of  the  wine  countries  of  Europe,  as  the  cold  of 
their  winters  is  not  sufficiently  intense  to  answer  that  end. 

Should  the  wine  be  required  with  much,  little,  or  no  colour,  let 
it  be  remembered  that  this  quality  resides  exclusively  in  the  skin 
of  the  fruit,  so  that  you  may  conduct  the  process  according  to  your 
desire. 

Different  flavours  and  fragrancies  are  communicated  by  the  dif- 
ferent kinds  of  grapes,  and  also  from  other  ingredients  ;  the  odour 
of  Muscadel,  for  example,  is  given  with  the  flowers  of  Elder  and 
other  herbs ;  some  use  peach  flowers  and  consider  them  to  commu- 
nicate an  agreeable  flavour  to  wine. 

The  absolute  and  essential  qualities  in  wine  are  to  have  no  de- 
fect, nor  be  liable  easily  to  contract  any,  to  be  able  to  keep  long,  and 
bear  transportation. 

An  essential  article  in  the  preservation  of  wine  is  to  keep  the 
air  totally  excluded  out  of  the  vessels,  for  which  purpose  DAVAN- 
ZATI  advises,  "  to  take  off  the  rind  of  a  piece  of  dried  bacon,  and 
leave  a  little  fat  adhering  to  it  in  th'e  centre,  after  that  make  use  of 
it  in  the  manner  of  a  bung,  and  cram  it  in  with  might,  that  the 
cask  may  be  well  stopped  up  :  extend  out  the  rind  afterwards  over 
the  cask,  after  having  done  it  over  with  ashes  ;  then  cover  it 
over  again  with  very  dry  ashes  :  and  that  they  may  not  fall  off,  nail  a 
piece  of  stuff  over  the  same.  The  cask  being  then  sufficiently 
shut  up,  the  air  willnot  penetrate  into  it,  and  the  wine  cannot  change 
its  nature." 

I  mention  this  to  show  the  necessity  of  the  casks  being  kept  air 
tight  and  bunged  effectually,  not  doubting  but  many  other  methods 
may  be  used  equally  effectual,  perhaps  much  more  so,  than  that 
recommended  by  DAVANZATI, 

A  wine  cellar  should  be  dry,  so  deep  under  ground  as  that  the 
temperature  of  it  heat,  may  be  nearly  the  same  winter  and  sum- 
mer :  it  should  be  at  a  distance  from  streets,  high-ways,  workshops, 
sewers  and  necessaries ;  if  arched  over,  the  better. 

Of  all  other  methods  wine  is  best  preserved  in  bottles,  well 
corked  and  sealed ;  but  this  should  not  be  done  till  it  is  clear  and 
fine  and  all  fermentation  subsided. 

Tartar  and  the  lees  of  wine,  are  the  principles  of  its  destruction, 
and  none  but  sweet  wines  can  bear  the  existence  of  them ;  by  often 
drawing  it  off  in  order  to  purge  it  of  these,  there  is  too  great  a 


SIM-.]  THE  VINEYARD.  487 

superfices  exposed  to  the  action  of  the  air,  which  greatly  injures 
the  wine. 

To  obviate  this  evil,  the  people  of  Champagne  and  other  wine 
countries,  make  use  of  the  following  expedient,  viz.  To  a  leather 
pipe  from  four  to  six  feet  in  length  and  two  inches  in  diameter  are 
adapted,  at  each  end,  wooden  pipes  nine  or  ten  inches  in  length, 
which  decrease  in  diameter  towards  the  ends,  and  are  fastened  to 
the  leather  pipes  by  means  of  a  piece  of  twine.  The  bung  of  the 
cask  intended  to  be  filled  is  taken  out  and  one  of  the  pipes  put 
into  it.  A  good  cock  is  fixed  in  the  cask  to  be  emptied;  two  or 
three  inches  from  the  bottom,  and  in  this  is  inserted  the  extremity 
of  the  other  pipe.  A  pair  of  bellows  of  two  feet  long,  including  the 
handles,  and  ten  inches  in  diameter,  with  a  wooden  pipe,  to  the 
extremity  of  which  is  fixed  a  small  leather  valve  to  prevent  the  air 
from  rushing  out  when  the  bellows  are  opened,  is  introduced 
through  a  hole  made  in  the  bung  and  fitted  exactly  thereto.  When 
the  bellows  are  worked,  the  pressure  exercised  on  the  wine,  obliges 
it  to  issue  from  the  cask  and  to  ascend  and  pass  through  the  leather 
pipe  into  the  other  cask.  When  the  pipe  is  once  filled,  the  wine 
will  pass  through  without  the  application  of  any  further  force  till 
each  cask  is  half  full,  but  then  by  working  the  bellows  the  artificial 
pressure  of  the  air  on  the  surface  of  the  wine,  will  oblige  the  re- 
mainder to  pass  off,  without  any  agitation  or  shaking.  When  a 
hissing  is  heard  at  the  cock,  it  is  a  sign  that  all  the  wine  has  passed. 
This  operation  may  be  performed  in  another  manner,  without  the 
assistance  of  a  cock,  by  making  one  of  the  wooden  pipes  so  long  as 
to  reach  within  five  or  six  inches  of  the  bottom,  and  introducing  it 
through  the  bung,  together  with  the  pipe  of  the  bellows, 
which  when  worked,  will  force  up  the  liquor  as  before. 

Clarification  of  Wines. 

When  wines  have  been  racked  off  three  or  four  times,  in  the 
preceding  manner,  they  may  be  fined  or  clarified  as  follows.  For 
white  wines,  mix  a  quart  of  new  milk  and  about  an  ounce  of  salt, 
with  two  or  three  quarts  of  wine  and  pour  it  into  the  cask,  then 
with  a  strong  lath  or  flat  stick,  stir  the  wine  in  the  cask  -very  well, 
observing  not  to  put  the  stick  to  the  bottom,  lest  you  disturb  the 
lees  or  sediment.  This  will  be  sufficient  for  63  gallons. 

Some  ibr  this  purpose  use  a  solution  of  isinglass,  about  the- 
quantity  of  an  ounce  to  every  fifty  gallons  of  wine;  but  CHAPTAL 
observes,  "  the  use  of  this  substance  is  dreaded  in  warm  Climates, 
and  its  place  is  supplied  by  whites  of  eggs :  ten  or  twelve  are  suf- 
ficient for  half  a  muid,  or  seventy-two  gallons  English.  They 
should  be  well  beaten  up  and  mixed  with  a  pint  of  new  milk." 

For  a  hogshead  of  red  wine  beat  up  effectually  the  whites  of  ten 
or  twelve  fresh  eggs,  and  incorporate  this  well  with  three  or  four 
quarts  of  wine,  which  pour  into  the  cask,  stirring  it  as  above  direct- 
ed. In  five  or  six  days  after,  the  wines  will  be  fit  to  draw  off  for 
bottling,  &c. 


488  THE  VINEYARD.  [SEPT. 


Methods  of  curing  Raiains. 

R.  Twiss  Esq.  says,  in  his  travels  through  Portugal  and  Spain, 
page  334,  "  Raisins  are  of  two  sorts  ;  those  which  are  called  sun- 
raisins  are  made  thus  :  when  the  grapes  are  almost  ripe,  the  stalk 
is  half  cut  through,  so  that  the  sap  may  not  penetrate  farther,  but 
yet  the  bunch  of  grapes  may  remain  suspended  by  the  stalk  ;  the 
sun  by  darting  on  them  candies  them,  and  when  they  are  dry  they 
are  packed  up  in  boxes." 

"  The  second  sort  are  made  after  this  manner ;  when  the  vines 
are  produced  the  tendrels  or  claspers,  are  preserved  till  the  time  of 
vintage  ;  a  great  fire  is  made,  when  these  tendrels  are  burned,  and 
in  the  lye  made  of  their  ashes,  the  newly  gathered  grapes  are  dipt, 
after  which  they  are  exposed  to  the  sun  to  dry,  which  renders  them 
fit  for  use." 

Mr.  Swinburn  in  his  travels  through  Spain  informs  HS,  that 
the  raisins  dried  on  the  coast  of  Valencia  are  dipt  in  a  lie  of  ivine 
and  ashes. 

Preserving  Grapes  fresh  for  winter  use. 

Grapes  may  be  kept  fresh  a  long  time  by  the  following  method : 
before  the  autumn  frosts  have  killed  the  leaves,  let  the  bunch  with 
the  shoot  be  carefully  cut  off  the  vine  ;  then  let  the  lower  end  of  the 
shoot  be  put  into  a  bottle  filled  with  water  ;  which  hang  up  with 
the  shoot  and  branch  in  a  warm  room,  or  in  a  Green-house 

The  bottle  should  be  filled  with  fresh  clear  water  every  ten  or 
twelve  days,  and  at  the  same  time  a  thin  paring  should  be  cut  off 
the  bottom  of  the  shoot,  whereby  the  pores  will  be  made  to  imbibe 
the  water  with  greater  facility. 

By  this  method  grapes  may  be  kept  fresh  and  good  till  the  middle 
of  February. 

Or  let  the  grapes  hang  on  the  vines  as  long  as  they  will  continue 
on  with  safety ;  the  late  ripening  kinds  will  be  best  for  this  purpose, 
provided  they  are  of  good  flavour  and  have  attained  full  maturity. 
When  the  frosts  begin  to  set  in  sharp  then  gather  them.  Where 
there  are  several  bunches  on  one  branch  cut  it  off,  leaving  about  six 
inches  in  length,  or  more,  of  the  wood,  according  to  the  distance 
between  the  bunches,  and  a  little  on  the  outside  of  the  fruit  at  each 
end  ;  seal  both  ends  of  the  branch  with  some  common  sealing  wax, 
or  with  such  as  wine  merchants  use  for  sealing  their  bottles  with; 
then  hang  them  across  a  line  in  a  dry  room,  which  is  to  be  kept 
perfectly  'free  from  frost,  taking  care  to  clip  out,  with  a  pair  of  scis- 
sars,  any  of  the  berries  that  begin  to  decay  or  become  mouldy,  which 
if  left  would  taint  the  others.  In  this  way  grapes  may  be  kept 
fresh  a  long  time  :  if  they  are  cut  before  the  bunches  are  very 
ripe,  they  will  keep  longer,  but  their  flavour  will  not  be  so  fine. 

Having  plenty  of  fresh  grapes  in  winter  makes  a  great  addition 
to  the  table  and  if  properly  kept  they  "will  be  of  a  much  superior 
flavour  to  the  imported  grapes. 


SEPT.]  THE  NURSERY.  439 

Grapes  may  also  be  kept  in  jars ;  every  bunch  when  well  aired 
and  perfectly  dry,  should  be  wrapped  up  loosely  in  soft  white  paper, 
laid  in  layers,  and  each  layer  covered  with  bran,  which  should 
be  perfectly  well  dried  before  it  is  used  :  first  lay  a  little  of  the  dry 
bran  in  the  bottom  of  the  jar,  then  a  layer  of  the  wrapped  up  grapes, 
and  so  on,  a  layer  of  bran  and  layer  of  grapes  alternately,  till  you 
have  filled  the  jar;  then  shake  it  gently  and  fill  it  to  the  top  with 
bran :  cover  the  top  with  paper,  and  over  this  a  piece  of  bladder 
doubled,  which  tie  firmly  round  to  exclude  the  air  :  then  put  on 
the  top  or  cover  of  the  jar,  observing  that  it  fits  as  close  as  possible. 
These  jars  should  be  kept  in  a  room  where  they  will  not  be  exposed 
to  damps,  frosts,  or  too  much  heat. 

In  order  to  preserve  a  few  of  your  finest  bunches  for  this  pur- 
pose, from  the  depredations  of  birds  and  insects,  let  some  small  bags 
made  of  thin  gauze  or  crape  be  drawn  over  them,  or  rather  let  the 
bunches  be  put  into  the  bags  ;  the  sun  and  air  will  have  free  access 
through  the  crape,  and  when  wet  it  will  dry  very  soon. 


THE  NURSERY. 


Budding^  or  Inoculating. 

CONTINUE  to  inoculate  peaches,  nectarines,  almonds  and 
apples  ;  the  three  former  will  succeed  very  well  if  done  any  time 
before  the  middle  of  the  month,  and  even  later  in  some  seasons, 
especially,  in  the  middle  and  eastern  states  ;  the  budding  of  apples 
should  be  finished  as  early  in  the  month  as  possible  ;  but  these,  or 
any  other  kinds,  may  be  inoculated  as  late  as  you  find  the  bark  to 
separate  freely  from  the  stock.  » 

Untie  the  bandanges  of  such  plants  as  have  been  budded  three 
or  four  weeks  ;  this  must  not  be  neglected,  for  the  swelling  growth 
of  the  stocks,  would  cause  the  bandages  to  sink  into  the  bark,  which 
would  injure  both  stocks  and  buds. 

Prepare  ground  for  Planting. 

If  omitted  in  August,  it  will  be  very  proper  to  embrace  every  lei- 
sure moment  at  this  time,  to  dig  and  prepare  all  vacant  quarters 
and  borders,  in  which  you  intend  to  plant  fruit-tree  stocks,  or  trees 
or  shrubs  of  any  kind,  in  October  or  November  ;  this  will  forward 
your  business,  and,  not  only  that,  but,  the  ground  will  be  mellowed 
and  moistened  by  the  rain,  which  will  be  of  much  advantage  in  ex- 
citing the  plants  to  produce  new  fibres  before  winter. 


490  THE  NURSERY.  [SEPT; 


Transplanting. 

When  absolute  necessity  requires  it,  and  only  in  that  case,  you 
may  in  the  last  week  of  this  month  remove  and  transplant  ever- 
greens, and  such  deciduous  trees  and  shrubs  as  are  much  declined 
in  leaf;  but,  should  the  season  prove  dry,  these  must  be  carefully  and 
frequently  watered,  for  a  month  or  five  weeks  after,  not  giving  too 
much  at  a  time,  nor  too  frequently,  lest  an  over  quantity  should 
rot  the  young  fibres  as  they  are  produced. 

Projiagating  trees  and  Shrubs  by  Cuttings  and  Layers. 

In  the  last  week  of  this  month  you  may  begin  to  propagate  goose- 
berries, currants,  honeysuckles,  and  several  other  hardy  trees  and 
shrubs,  by  cuttings  ;  but  it  will  be  necessary,  at  this  time,  to  plant 
them  in  a  shady  border  :  however,  I  would  not  advise  this  to  be  done 
before  October,  except  in  cases  of  necessity  ;  for  wood  imperfectly 
ripened,  when  cut  off  and  planted  in  this  month,  seldom  can  bear 
the  power  of  the  sun  in  our  climates,  unless  it  is  for  some  time 
after,  covered  and'protected  therefrom. 

The  general  propagation  by  layers  may,  with  great  propriety, 
be  commenced  towards  the  latter  end  of  this  month.  For  the 
method  see  page  279. 

Fruit  Stones, 

Peach,  plumb,  aud  cherry  stones,  Sec.  may  now  be  sown  as 
directed  in  page  144,  or  they  may  be  preserved  as  recommended 
in  page  458  till  October,  November,  or  February  ;  but  in  the  south- 
ern states  they  should  be  sown  in  or  before  January,  if  possible. 

T-rimming  Pines  and  Firs,  &c. 

Where  firs,  pines,  and  other  resinous  trees,  are  grown  so  rude 
as  to"  require  some  of  their  branches  to  be  cut  off,  this  is  the  best 
time  in  the  year  for  so  doing  ;  now  they  are  not  subject  to 
weep  as  in  the  spring,  and  there  will  be  time  for  their  wounds  to 
harden  and  partly  heal  before  winter.  \Valnut-trees  and  maples 
should,  also,  be  trimmed  at  this  season,  where  necessary,  for  the 
same  reasons. 

General  care  of  Young  Nursery -Plants. 

Thoroughly  clean  from  weeds  all  the  seed-beds  and  young  plan- 
tations cf  trees,  shrubs,  &c.  this  must  be  done  occasionally  by 
hand  and  hoe,  taking  opportunity  of  dry  days  when  you  work  with 
the  hoe  ;  hand  weeding  will  be  easier  performed  when  the  ground  is 
moist. 

Continue  to  give  water,  in  dry  weather,  to  all  the  plants  in  pots 
or  boxes,  and  ulso  to  new  plantations  of  flowers,  Sec. 


SEPT.]  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  491 

Towards  the  latter  end  of  the  month  begin  to  pot  off  singly, 
such  young  tender  plants  as  were  raised  from  seed  this  year,  and 
that  stand  too  close  together  where  growing.  These  should  be 
immediate  placed  in  the  shade  for  about  three  weeks  till  newly 
rooted,  after  which  place  them  in  a  warm  exposure  till  the  ap- 
proach of  frost,  when  they  must  be  removed  into  the  Green-house, 
or  placed  under  the  protection  of  frames  and  glasses,  Sec. 


THE  PLEASURE,  OR  FLOWER-GARDEN. 


Carnations  and  Pinks. 

YOUR  late  carnation  and  pink  layers,  must  now  be  taken  off,  as 
soon  as  they  are  well  rooted,  and  be  treated  as  directed  in  July  and 
August ;  the  earlier  in  the  month  that  you  can  do  this,  the  better 
will  the  plants  be  rooted  before  winter. 

Towards  the  end  of  the  month  you  may  transplant  from  the 
nursery-beds,  the  seedling  pinks  and  carnations,  into  such  beds 
and  borders  as  you  intend  them  to  flower  in  ;  observing  to  take 
each  plant  up  with  a  ball  of  earth,  and  to  give  it  some  water  when 
newly  planted. 

Auriculas. 

The  auricula  plants  still  require  due  attention,  but  particularly 
those  shifted  last  month  ;  they  must  yet  be  kept  in  the  shade  and 
moderately  watered,  as  often  as  the  earth  appears  rather  dry,  to 
promote  a  free  growth  and  a  good  supply  of  new  roots  before 
winter. 

If  the  shifting  had  been  neglected  last  month  it  may  yet  be  done, 
but  the  beginning  of  August  is  a  more  eligible  period. 

Particular  care  must  now  be  taken  to  keep  the  auricula  seedlings, 
as  well  as  the  old  plants,  free  from  decayed  leaves  and  weeds  of 
every  kind,  to  keep  the  earth  about  them  in  a  moderate  state  of 
moisture,  that  the  plants  may  grow  freely  and  obtain  strength  before 
winter. 

Sowing  seeds  of  Bulbous  rooted  flowers. 

This  will  be  a  very  proper  time  to  sow  the  seeds  of  Tulips, 
Hyacinths,  and  of  every  other  kind  of  bulbous  rooted  flowers,  that 
have  perfected  seed  in  the  preceding  part  of  the  season.  These 
seeds  should  be  sown  separately,  in  boxes  filled  with  good  sound 
garden  mould,  mixed  with  a  small  portion  of  sand,  or  with  Hyacinth 


492  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [SEPT. 

or  Tulip  compost;  sow  the  seeds  pretty  thick  and  cover  them  about 
half  an  inch  deep.  The  depth  of  earth  in  each  box  should  be  at 
least  one  foot,  the  bottoms  of  the  boxes  should  be  perforated  with 
holes,  each  about  an  inch  in  diameter,  and  covered  with  shells,  in 
order  that  any  extra  moisture  may  drain  oft*  thereby.  The  boxes 
are  then  to  be  placed  in  a  warm  exposure,  and  will  require  no 
water,  or  any  other  attention  than  the  keeping  of  them  perfectly 
free  from  weeds,  and  slightly  protecting  them  from  frost,  till  the 
spring  following  when  the  plants  will  appear.  Early  in  May, 
place  the  boxes  in  the  shade,  but  not  under  the  dropping  or  shade 
of  trees,  and,  in  very  dry  weather,  give  the  plants  a  small  portion  of 
water ;  but  this  should  be  administered  sparingly,  lest  it  should 
rot  the  young  bulbs.  In  June  when  the  leaves  are  decayed  sift 
half  an  inch  of  fresh  earth  over  that  in  the  boxes,  and  on  the  ap- 
proach of  winter  place  them  again  in  a  warm  exposure,  where  you 
can  give  them  some  slight  protection  from  severe  frost.  Continue 
the  same  treatment  winter  and  summer,  till  the  month  of  June  or 
July  in  the  third  year  ;  the  roots  may  then  be  taken  up,  dried  and 
treated  in  the  same  manner  as  directed  for  large  bulbs  or  offsets  in 
pages  383  and  384:  a  few  of  the  strongest  roots  will  flower  the 
fourth  year,  about  one  half  may  be  expected  to  flower  the  fifth,  but 
the  sixth  year  every  healthy  root  will  exhibit  its  bloom,  and  then 
the  hopes  and  expectations  of  the  cultivator  will  be  realized  or 
disappointed.  He  may,  however,  think  himself  fortunate,  if  one 
half  of  the  plants  that  first  appeared,  are  in  existence  at  this  period; 
and  if  he  can  at  last  find  one  Tulip  or  Hyacinth  in  five  hundred 
deserving  a  name,  or  a  place  in  a  good  collection,  he  may  rest  per- 
fectly content. 

The  Tulips  raised  from  seed,  will  each  consist  of  one  plain  colour, 
on  a  white,  dark,  or  yellow  bottom  ;  the  period  of  their  breaking  into 
different  stripes  is  very  uncertain,  so  much  so,  that  is  not  uncom- 
mon to  wait  ten  or  twenty  years  without  the  desired  success,  al- 
though it  sometimes  happens,  fortunately,  to  take  place  the  first, 
second,  or  third  year  after  their  blooming  ;  where  the  collection  of 
breeders  is  numerous  (a  name  given  to  those  self  couloured  Tulips) 
there  may  be  reasonable  expectations  of  procuring  one  or  two 
valuable  flowers  annually :  a  poor  dry  soil  is  most  likely  to  produce 
these  effects ;  and  a  single  instance  has  occured  where  forty 
breeders  out  of  fifty  became  broken  or  variagated  in  one  season,  in 
a  situation  of  this  description. 

New  sorts  of  breeders  are  procured  from  seed,  but  such  only  as 
have  tall  strong  stems,  with  large  well  formed  cups,  and  clear  in 
the  bottom,  are  worth  cultivating. 

Note,  The  various  kinds  of  tender  bulbous-rooted  flowering 
plants,  may  me  propagated  as  above  directed,  but  the  boxes  in 
which  the  seedlings  grow,  must  be  placed  in  a  Greenhouse  or 
Hot -house  in  winter,  according  to  the  respective  necessities  of  the 
various  kinds. 


SEPT.]  FLOWER-GARDEN.  493 


Transplant  Perennial  and  Biennial  Flower  Roots. 

The  latter  end  of  this  month  is  a  very  proper  period  for  trans- 
planting the  various  kinds  of  seedling  perennial,  and  biennial  flow- 
ers, out  of  the  flower-nursery  into  the  beds,  borders,  and  pleasure 
grounds,  where  they  are  designed  to  bloom.  You  may  likewise 
slip  and  plant  out  double  catchfly,  pinks,  London  pride,  lychni- 
deas,  Dracocephalums,  sweet-william,  thrift,  scarlet-lychnis,  Virgi- 
nian spiderwort,  double  rose-campion,  double  rocket,  virginian  lung- 
wort, creeping  Greek  valerian,  and  every  other  kind  of  hardy 
fibrous-rooted  perennials  that  are  past  bloom. 

Cut  down  the  stalks  of  such  flowers  as  are  decayed,  and  where 
they  are  not  to  be  transplanted,  dig  the  ground  about  them  and  add 
some  rotten  dung  or  fresh  earth  to  the  borders,  which  will  greatly 
strengthen  their  roots. 

This  will  also  be  a  very  good  time  to  collect  from  the  fields, 
swamps,  and  woods,  some  of  the  favourites  of  the  MOST-HIGH, 
which  he  has  decorated  with  such  a  profusion  of  lustre  and  beauty, 
that,  "  Solomon  in  all  his  Glory"  was  not  equal  to.  These  are  tt» 
be  taken  up  and  treated  as  directed  in  page  461. 

The  various  kinds  of  tuberous  rooted  flowering-plants  may  now 
be  propagated  by  slipping  or  parting  their  roots,  such  as  Pceonias, 
Spirxa  Filipendula,  flag-Irises,  Helleborus  hyemalis  or  winter 
aconite,  &c.  This  last  should  have  its  roots  planted  in  small 
clusters;  for  small  solitary  flowers  scattered  about  the  borders,  are 
scarcely  seen  at  a  distance,  but  when  these,  snowdrops,  crocuses, 
and  dwarf  Persian  Irises,  are  alternately  planted  in  bunches,  they 
will  have  a  very  good  effect,  as  they  flower  at  the  same  time  and 
are  much  of  a  size.  You  may  also  divide  and  transplant  the  roots 
of  the  Helleborus  niger,  or  Christmas  rose.  Helltborus  viridis,or 
green  Hellebore,  Helleborus  ranunculinus,  and  H.  fcetidus,  stinking 
Hellebore,  or  Bear's-foot.  The  Helleborus  lividus,  purple,  or 
great  three  flowered  black  Hellebore,  is  a  very  desirable  plant,  it  is 
usual  to  keep  this  in  the  Green-house,  where  it  will  flower  in 
February  and  continue  a  long  time  in  bloom.  It  may  now  be  pro- 
pagated in  like  manner  as  the  other  species. 

The  fair  Maids  of  France. 

The  double  flowering  variety  of  the  Ranunculus  aconitifolius^ 
Aconite-leaved  Crowfoot,  or  Fair  Maids  of  France,  is  greatly  es- 
teemed for  the  delicate  beauty  of  its  numerous  flowers.  It  is  per- 
fectly hardy,  and  grows,  generally,  from  a  foot  and  a  half  to  two 
feet  high,  the  stalks  branching  out  at  top  into  several  divisions,  at 
each  of  which  there  is  one  leaf  of  the  same  shape  of  the  root  leaves, 
divided  into  five  lanceolate  lobes  each  ;  the  four  side-lobes  are  upon 
foot-stalks  coming  from  the  side  of  the  principal  stalk,  and  the 
middle  one  terminates  it ;  they  are  deeply  serrate,  and  have  seve- 
ral longitudinal  veins.  The  flowers  are  pure  white,  very  double, 
each  standing  upon  a  single  foot-stalk.  The  root  is  perennial  and 


494  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [SEPT. 

composed  of  many  strong  fleshy  fibres,  formed  like  that  of  the 
Ranunculus  asiaticus  or  garden  ranunculus,  and  increasing  in  the 
same  manner.  It  is  a  native  of  the  Alps  of  Europe,  and  is  very 
scarce  at  present  in  America. 

This  beautiful  plant  flowers  generally  in  the  latter  end  of  May 
and  June,  and  may  be  propagated  by  taking  up  the  roots  now,  or  at 
any  time  after  the  stems  decay,  separating  the  offsets,  taking  care, 
at  the  same  time,  to  preserve  the  crown  of  each  unhurt,  and  plant- 
ing them  in  any  good  garden  earth.  Their  thick  fibres  are  to  be 
spread  around,  and  the  upper  part  of  each  root  is  to  be  covered 
about  too  inches  deep,  if  planted  in  beds  or  borders,  but  if  in  pots, 
one  inch  will  be  sufficient ;  raise  the  earth  in  the  centre  of  the  pot, 
place  the  root  thereon,  spreading  the  fibres  around  and  downward, 
then  fill  in  the  earth  and  cover  as  above.  The  pots  will  require 
some  protection  and  but  very  little  water  during  winter,  for  no 
root  or  plant  will  bear  as  much  frost  when  in  pots,  as  if  planted  in 
the  open  ground.  This  plant  looks  beautiful  in  rooms  and  windows, 
when  in  flower,  as  well  as  in  borders  and  beds. 

Ranunculuses  and  Anemones. 

In  the  last  week  or  ten  days  of  this  month  you  should  plant  a  few 
beds  of  ranunculuses  and  anemones,  for  an  early  bloom,  as  directed 
in  October  ;  but  I  would  not  recommend  the  general  planting  of 
those  roots  sooner  than  next  month;  however,  it  will  be  proper 
at  this  time  to  begin  to  prepare  the  beds,  &c.  as  there  advised. 

Planting  -various  kinds  of  Bulbous  Roots. 

Spring  crocuses,  snowdrops,  fritillaries,  crown-imperials,  dens- 
canises,  dwarf  Persian,  English  and  Spanish  bulbous  Irises,  scarlet 
martagons,  white,  superb,  Canada,  and  red  lilies,  and  all  other  kinds 
of  bulbs  that  do  not  agree  with  being  kept  long  out  of  ground, 
should  now  be  planted  if  possible  :  for  although  these  roots  may  be 
kept  up  much  longer  if  preserved  from  the  air,  in  dry  sand,  saw 
dust,  dry  chaff  or  the  like,  yet  they  would  not  flower  near  so  well 
next  season,  as  if  planted  in  due  time. 

Common  tulips,  hyacinths,  narcissus,  &c.  may  now  be  planted 
in  the  borders  of  the  pleasure  grounds,  in  small  clumps  of  four  or 
five  in  a  place,  covering  the  roots  about  four  inches  deep,  if  the 
soil  be  dry  and  light,  if  stiff  and  heavy,  three  inches  will  be  suffi- 
cient; but  the  latter  kind  of  soil  should  not  be  chosen  for  this 
purpose  if  possible:  where  the  borders  are  naturally  inclined 
to  clay,  proper  earth  should  be  brought  on  barrows,  and  holes 
made  in  the  spots  where  you  intend  planting,  about  a  foot  in  diam- 
ter,  and  at  least,  the  same  in  depth,  which  fill  with  the  good  soil 
and  plant  the  roots  therein,  covering  as  above. 

Van  Thol  and  other  early  tulips,  may  now  be  planted  in  a  warm 
soil  and  exposure,  for  an  early  spring  bloom. 


SEPT.]  FLOWER-GARDEN.  495 


jFlower-Borders  and  Shrubberies. 

Towards  the  latter  end  of  this  month,  begin  to  dig  the  vacant 
beds  and  borders,  where  the  plants  are  mostly  declined  in  their 
flowering,  to  prepare  them  for  the  reception  of  any  plants  or  roots, 
to  kill  weeds,  and  to  give  a  neat  and  becoming  appearance  to  the 
whole  ;  if  they  require  it,  add  some  fresh  earth  or  verry  rotten 
dung  to  them,  and  in  the  planting  of  flowers  in  borders  along  the 
principal  walks,  observe  to  dispose  of  them  in  such  a  manner,  as 
that  there  may  be  a  regular  succession  of  flowers  throughout  the 
season  in  the  different  parts,  planting  the  low  growing  kinds  in 
front  and  the  taller  more  remote  from  the  walks. 

Continue  to  keep  the  general  flower  borders,  clumps,  and  other 
similar  districts  very  clean,  and  in  neat  order,  and  go  round  all  the 
beds,  borders,  and  shrubbery  compartments  once  a  week,  to  cut 
down  decayed  flower-stems,  for  such  detract  much  from  the 
beauty  of  the  plants  in  flower,  as  well  as  from  that  of  the  general 
appearance. 

Regulate  disorderly  growths,  tie  up  straggling  branches,  and 
pick  off  all  decayed  leaves,  likewise  prune  or  cut  away  any  branch- 
es or  twigs  that  appear  in  a  mouldy  or  declining  state,  on  any  of 
the  flowering  plants  or  shrubs. 

Box  Edgings. 

Clip  box  edgings  where  it  was  omitted  in  the  two  former  months, 
but  let  this  be  done  as  soon  now  as  possible,  that  the  box  may  have 
time  to  grow  a  little  and  put  on  a  fresh  appearance  before  winter ; 
it  will  be  best  to  do  this  in  wet  or  cloudy  weather,  if  such  should 
happen  in  due  time. 

In  the  last  week  of  this  month,  should  the  season  prove  moist, 
you  may  begin  to  plant  box  edgings  where  wanted,  as  directed  in. 
page  294,  but  if  the  weather  sets  in  dry  and  hot  immediately  after, 
it  will  be  necessary  to  shade  them  with  boards,  &cc.  for  a  month, 
abojut  that  period  they  will  be  newly  rooted,  and  appear  neat  all 
winter.  However,  should  the  weather  not  prove  favourable  in  this 
month,  it  would  be  more  advisable  to  defer  that  work  till  the 
early  part  of  October. 

If  you  have  low  bunches  of  dwarf  box,  that  the  offsets  are 
generally  rooted,  you  need  be  under  no  apprehension  of  their 
striking  fresh  root  and  growing  freely  at  this  time,  if  kept  regularly 
watered,  but  where  you  form  edgings  of  box  cuttings,  these  will 
require  to  be  carefully  shaded  from  the  sun,  at  least  for  a  month 
after,  if  planted  at  this  season. 

Clip  fledges. 

Such  hedges  as  have  not  been  trimmed  in  the  preceding  month, 
should  be  clipped  in  the  early  part  of  this,  before  the  shoots  get  hard. 

In  clipping  hedges,  always  take  particular  care  to  have  the 
shears  in  perfect  good  order,  that  you  may  be  able  to  make  neat  and 


496  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [SEPT. 

expeditious  work.  'Let  the  sides  of  the  full  grown  hedges  be  al- 
ways clipped  in,  nearly  to  the  former  year's  cut,  and  as  even  and 
straight  as  possible  ;  for  it  looks  awkward  and  not  workman  like, 
to  see  the  sides  ot  hedges,  especially  garden  hedges,  waved  and 
uneven  ;  and  always  observe  to  clip  a  hedge  in  such  a  way  as  to 
slofic  in  a  narrowing  manner  ufiwards,  that  the  top  may  be  a  little 
narrower  than  the  bottom,  and  at  the  same  tin.e  as  even  and  level 
as  possible. 

In  clipping  young  hedges  under  training,  be  cautious  not  to  cut 
them  too  close  above,  but  clip  the  top  oft'  regularly  to  retard  the 
luxuriant  shoots,  and  cause  them  to  branch  out  and  thicken  the 
hedge,  and  also  to  give  the  moderate  growths  an  equal  advantage  of 
air  and  room  to  advance  as  equally  as  possible  ;  cut  the  sides  with 
similar  care  but  closer,  and  always  sloping  inwards  or  narrowing 
towards  the  top;  for  by  thus  exposing  the  sides  and  bottom  of  the 
hedge  to  the  influence  of  the  air,  rain,  and  dews,  all  parts  are 
equally  encouraged  in  growth,  and  the  whole  becomes  close  and 
well  furnished,  but  when  the  top  overhangs  the  bottom,  the  lower 
branches,  for  want  of  those  advantages,  decay  and  the  hedge  be 
comes  thin  below  and,  consequently,  much  more  unfit  to  answer 
the  end  than  if  judiciously  trained. 

Grass  and  Gravel  Walks,  and  Lawns. 

Continue  to  treat  your  grass  and  gravel  walks  and  lawns  as  di- 
rected in  page  391,  and  let  the  rough  edges  of  all  grass  lawns,  &c. 
adjoining  gravel  walks,  and  principal  borders,  be  cut  close  and  neat, 
with  a  very  sharp  edging-iron,  Sec.  which  will  give  an  additional 
neatness,  and  becoming  appearance  to  the  whole. 

Prepare  for  Planting. 

Prepare  now,  at  all  leisure  hours,  the  different  beds,  borders, 
and  composts,  for  your  plantations  of  choice  tulips,  hyacinths,  ane- 
mones, ranunculuses,  and  other  flower-roots,  which  are  to  be  plant- 
ed next  month  ;  also  for  the  various  flowering  shrubs,  Sic.  that 
the  hurry  of  business  may  not  press  upon  you  too  much  at  once, 
and  that  you  may  be  the  better  able  to  do  every  thing  in  its  proper 
season. 

Transplanting  JEvergrecns. 

In  the  last  week  of  this  month,  should  necessity  require,  you  may 
transplant  such  evergreens,  as  seem  to  have  ceased  growing,  pro- 
vided you  can  remove  them  with  balls  of  earth,  or  that  they  are  to 
be  planted  in  shady  places  ;  but  in  either  case  it  will  be  necessary 
to  water  them,  occasionally,  in  dry  weather,  for  three  or  four  weeks 
after  planting  ;  however,  if  the  season  proves  hot  and  dry,  it  will  be 
better  to  defer  that  work  till  October. 


SEPT.]  FLOWER-GARDEN.  497 

The   Vallisneria  americana. 

Some  account  of  the  Vallisneria  americana,  may  not  prove  unaccep- 
table to  the  curious,  the  more  especially  at  it  tends  to  cast  some 
light  on  the  "  loves"  and  sexes  of  plants. 

This  extraordinary  vegetable  production  grows  in  the  river  Dela- 
ware not  far  from  Philadelphia,  and  may,  with  care,  be  introduced 
by  means  of  seeds  or  roots,  into  rivers,  ponds,  and  canals,  8cc. 
Another  species,  the  sfiiralis,  is  found  in  the  East  Indies,  in  Norway, 
and  various  parts  of  Italy.  The  American  species,  flowers  gene- 
rally in  the  latter  part  of  August  or  in  September. 

The  Vallisneria  belongs  to  the  Class  Dioecia,  and  Order  Diandria, 
bearing  male  and  female  flowers  on  separate  plants.  The  female 
plant  produces  long,  tubular,  purple  flowers,  which  stand  singly  on 
the  top  of  a  stalk,  curiously  twisted  in  the  form  of  a  screw,  which  is 
common  to  both  s/iecies  ;  when  the  flowers  are  about  to  expand, 
this  screw  or  spiral  stalk  relaxes  more  or  less  according  to  the 
depth  of  the  water,  and  suffers  the  flowers  to  rise  up  to  the  surface, 
where  they  float,  in  expectation  of  a  visit  from  their  husbands. 

The  flowers  of  the  male  plant  are  very  numerous,  small,  and  of  a 
white  colour ;  they  are  contained  within  a  Spatha  or  sheath,  which 
stands  on  a  short  foot-stalk,  that  never  rises  to  the  top  of  the  water  ; 
the  flowers  being  arrived  at  maturity,  and  fired  with  love,  they 
burst  open  the  Spatha  in  which  they  are  contained,  detach  them- 
selves from  the  Receptacle  to  which  they  are  fixed,  and  rise  up  to 
the  surface  of  the  water,  where  they  float  about,  as  if  in  search  of 
their  mates,  and  suddenly,  with  a  kind  of  elasticity,  open  themselves 
and  discharge  their  Pollen,  which  being  conveyed  to  the  female  flow- 
ers growing  near  them,  or  scattered  thereon,  impregnates  the 
seeds  contained  within  the  Germen. 

The  Pollen  being  discharded  on  the  Stigma,  the  embryo  seeds  are 
impregnated  ;  but  how  this  impregnation  is  effected,  it  is  difficult  to 
say  ;  indeed  while  the  affair  of  impregnation  in  animals  is  involved 
in  so  much  obscurity,  we  can  scarcely  expect  to  discover  more  of 
it  in  vegetables. 

It  has  been  the  opinion  of  some  of  the  early  writers  on  the  sexes 
of  plants,  that  the  Pollen  in  substance  passed  through  the  Style,  and 
so  impregnated  the  seeds  in  the  Ovary ;  but  this  is  a  very  irrational 
supposition,  for  it  is  not  probable  that  the  Pollen,  which  is  nothing 
more  than  a  case  for  the  true  sperm,  should  pass  through  a  part 
which  has  every  appearance  of  being  impervious  to  it. 

Whether  the  sperm  itself  be  conveyed  through  the  Style,  is 
perhaps  what  never  will  with  certainly  be  determined. 

The  hint  of  there  being  different  sexes  in  plants,  seems  first  to 
have  been  taken  from  the  Dioecia  class,  or  such  as  produce  (male) 
flowers  with  Stamina  on  one  plant,  and  (female)  flowtrs  with  Pis- 
tilla  on  another. 

"  If  the  dust  of  the  branch  of  a  male  Palm  Tree,  (says  Aristotle) 
be  suspended  over  the  female,  the  fruit  of  the  latter  will  quickly 
ripen  ;  and  if  the  male  dust  be  carried  along  by  the  wind,  and  dis- 
persed upon  the  female,  the  same  effect  will  follow,  as  if  a  branch 
of  the  male  had  been  suspended  over  it." 

3s 


498  THE  GREEN-HOUSE;  [SEPT: 

"  Naturalists,  (says  Pliny)  admit  of  distinction  of  sex  not  only  in 
trees,  but  in  herbs,  and  all  plants  ;  yet  this  is  no  where  more  ob- 
servable than  in  Palms,  the  femals  of  which  never  propagate  but 
when  they  are  fecundated  by  the  dust  of  the  male." 

te.  Those  who  wish  to  become  scientifically  acquainted  with 
the  Unnffan,  or  sexual  system  of  plants,  will  be  greatly  edified  by- 
consulting  that  very  valuable  work,  the  "  ELEMENTS  OF  BOTAKY", 
published  in  1303  by  BENJAMIN  SMITH  BARTON,  M.  D.  Professor 
of  Materia  Aledica,  Natural  History,  and  Botany,  in  the  University 
of  Pennsylvania. 

DOCTOR  BARTON  has  for  several  years  been  preparing  mate- 
rials for  a  FLORA  PENSYLVANICA,  or  a  scientific  desciiption  of 
the  indigenous  plants  of  Pennsylvania,  which  it  is  to  be  hoped  he 
will  shortly  publish  ;  as  by  it  the  public  will  become  acquainted 
with  many  rare  and  valuable  plants,  not  hitherto  described  ;  and 
also,  with  several  others,  delineated  so  imperfectly  by  European 
writers,  perhaps  from  dried  specimens,  as  not  to  be  known  by  their 
descriptions. 


THE  GREEN-HOUSE. 


IN  the  eastern  states,  between  the  fifteenth  and  latter  end  of  this 
month,  according  to  local  situations,  the  nights  will  be  getting 
cold,  and  consequently,  the  more  tender  kinds  of  Green-house  plants 
must  be  taken  in,  before  they  change  their  colour  by  too  much 
cold,  leaving  the  hardy  sorts  out  as  long  as  there  is  no  danger  of 
their  being  attacked  by  frost. 

Some  people  are  desirous  to  keep  out  their  plants  as  long  as 
possible,  this  is  very  right,  but  it  ought  not  to  be  extended  to  too 
hazardous  a  period,  for  one  night's  frost  would  cause  the  leaves  to 
lose  their  fine  green  colour,  which  perhaps  might  not  be  restored 
during  the  whole  winter,  and  if  any  way  severe,  serious  injury 
might  be  sustained. 

If  the  windows  and  doors  are  kept  open,  day  and  night,  as  long  as 
there  is  safety  in  so  doing,  the  plants  will  be  nearly  as  well  off  as  if 
in  the  open  air,  and  no  danger  is  encountered :  the  mere  differ- 
ence of  five  or  six  days  in  the  taking  in  of  the  plants  \vill  insure 
safety  ;  but  on  the  other  hand,  it  is  not  right  to  be  too  precipitate  in 
housing  them,  before  the  common  appearance  of  the  weather 
indicates  the  necessity. 

For  further  particulars  respecting  the  housing  of  the  plants,  see 
next  month,  which  is  the  period  for  doing  that  business  in  the  mid- 
dle states. 


SEPT.]  THE  GREEN-HOUSE.  499 

In  the  middle  and  other  states,  where  frosts  do  not  frequently  ap- 
pear before  the  middle  of  October,  the  plants  are  to  be  taken  care 
of  as  directed  in  the  preceding  months ;  observing  to  decrease 
the  usual  supply  of  water,  in  proportion  to  the  moistness  and 
coldness  of  the  weather,  for  the  administering  of  it  too  copiously, 
when  there  is  not  a  necessity,  wouid  be  very  injurious.  And  let  it 
be  particulay  observed,  that  as  soon  as  the  cold  nights  set  in,  which 
may  be  about  the  middle  of  this  month,  or  sooner,  the  water  must  be 
given  to  the  plants  in  the  morning,  for  if  given  late  in  the  afternoon, 
as  in  the  preceding  months,  the  chill  occasioned  by  it  and  the  cold- 
ness of  the  nights,  would  change  the  colour  of  the  foliage,  from  a 
fine  green  to  a  yellowish  cast,  whereby  much  of  their  beauty  would 
be  lost,  as  wellasthe  plants  themselves  in  some  degree  injured. 

If  any  are  in  want  of  larger  pots  or  tubs,  they  may  be  shifted 
in  the  beginning  of  this  month,  but  on  no  account  defer  it  later, 
that  the  plants  may  have  time  to  strike  some  fresh  roots  before  winter. 
And  if,  in  consequence  of  a  bad  state  of  health,  any  had  been  plant- 
ed in  baskets  in  the  borders  as  recommended  in  page  419,  they 
must,  early  in  this  month,  be  taken  up  and  re-potted  ;  observing  to 
take  them  up  carefully,  to  trim  off  the  wide  extended  roots,  cut  the 
baskets  away,  and  plant  them  with  the  entire  balls  in  the  pots  or 
tubs  destined  for  their  reception ;  after  which  give  them  water  and 
place  them  in  some  shady  warm  situation,  till  the  time  for  housing 
them. 

Any  young  Green-house  plants,  raised  this  or  last  year  from 
seeds,  slips,  cuttings,  or  suckers,  and  that  are  growing  too  close 
together  in  pots,  Sec.  should,  if  well  rooted,  be  transplanted  in  the 
early  part  of  this  month  into  pots,  singly,  and  be  immediately 
watered  and  placed  in  the  shade  for  a  week  or  too  ;  or  of  such  as 
are  very  small,  two,  three,  or  more,  may  be  planted  in  a  pot,  and 
treated  in  like  manner.  But  those  that  have  been  raised  from  slips 
or  cuttings  and  that  are  not  well  rooted,  and  consequently  not  much 
advanced  in  top  growth,  should  be  suffered  to  remain  in  their  pre- 
sent pots  till  spring  or  autumn  next. 

Any  Green-house  plants  propagated  in  the  open  ground,  or  in 
beds  during  the  course  of  the  summer,  should  be  taken  up 
in  the  first  week  of  this  month,  with  balls  of  earth,  potted  and  treated 
as  above. 

About  the  middle  of  this  month  you  should  plant  your  Ixias, 
Walchendorfias,  Oxalises,  Gladioluses,  Watsonias,  Cyanellas, 
Babianas,  Tritonias,  Massonias,  Melasphzcrulas,  Antholizas,  Mo- 
reas,  Lapeyrousias,  Lachenalias,  Melanthiums,  Geissorhizas,  with 
all  the  other  different  kinds  of  the  more  tender  bulbs,  either  obtain- 
ed from  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  or  elsewhere  ;  especially  such  of 
them  as  shew  the  least  disposition  to  produce  fibres  from  the  roots; 
for  if  kept  out  of  the  ground  much  longer,  after  this  appearance, 
they  would  be  greatly  injured  thereby. 

The  proper  compost  for  the  generality  of  the  above  kinds,  is  one 
half  rich  fresh  loam,  one  half  bog  earth,  or  earth  of  rotten  leaves,  and 
a  small  portion  of  drift  or  river  sand. 

They  are  to  be  planted  in  pots,  from  one  to  five  roots  in  each, 
a  greater  number  if  very  small,  and  covered  aboutan  inch  deep  j  the 


500  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  [SEPT. 

pots  are  then  to  be  placed  in  the  Green-House  windows  and  to  get 
but  very  little  water  till  the  foliage  appear  above  ground,  and 
even  after,  it  is  to  be  but  sparingly  administered,  for  too  much  mois- 
ture would  infallibly  rot  the  bulbs. 

Towards  the  end  of  the  month  take  into  the  Green-house  all  your 
succulent  and  other  tender  plants,  such  as  Stapelias,  Cactuses, 
Aloes,  Cycas  revoluta,  Agaves,  &c.  and  place  them  in  front  near 
the  windows  where  they  can  have  the  benefit  of  the  sun  and  air. 
Collect  your  Geraniums,  at  the  same  time,  and  all  other  plants 
that  tend  to  succulency,  and  arrange  them  in  front  of  the  Green- 
house, there  to  remain  till  it  is  found  necessary  to  take  them  in.  See 
next  month. 


THE  HOT-HOUSE. 


Repairing  the  Lights  and  cleaning  the  House. 

If  the  roof-lights  had  in  the  course  of  the  summer  been  taken 
off  any  of  the  Hot-house  departments,  they  should  be  replaced 
early  in  the  month,  and  all  the  glass-work  of  the  entire  house  or 
houses  put  in  the  best  possible  repair.  Examine  the  wood-work 
and  see  that  all  is  tight  and  in  good  condition  If  new  painting  of 
the  timbers,  sashes  or  any  other  parts  is  necessary,  and  that  it  had 
not  been  done  in  the  preceding  months,  it  should  be  no  longer  ne- 
glected. 

Indeed  it  would  be  of  considerable  advantage  at  this  time,  pre- 
vious to  the  taking  in  of  the  plants,  to  give  a  complete  and  tho- 
rough cleaning,  painting,  and  white  washing  to  the  entire  house  ; 
and  if  infested  with  insects,  to  fumigate  it  effectually  ;  and  also  to 
\vash-the  entire  of  the  inside  with  a  very  strong  solution  of  corrosive 
sublimate,  and  if  thought  necessary,  to  clean  away  every  morsel 
of  old  bark  out  of  the  pits,  carry  it  off  to  a  considerable  distance 
and  replace  it  with  fresh  tan.  Any  plants  remaining  in  this  de- 
partment, may  be  removed  into  the  Green-house  while  this  work  is 
going  on-^and  these  should  be  effectually  washed  and  cleaned,  if 
infested  with  insects,  before  their  being  replaced. 

This  cleansing,  fumigating,  &c.  will  destroy  most,  if  not  all,  of 
the  lurking  insects,  which  have  taken  shelter  in  the  various  parts 
of  the  house,  and  which,  by  and  bye,  if  not  destroyed  would  sally 
forth  and  make  a  formidable  and,  perhaps,  destructive  attack  upon 
your  plants  ;  every  timely  precaution  ought  to  be  taken  to  keep  the 
house  clean  and  sweet,  and  the  plants  free  from  vermin. 

Taking  in  the  Plants. 

The  more  tender  kinds  of  Hot-house  exotics  which  are  arranged 
out  of  doors,  should,  in  the  middle  states,  be  taken  into  the  Green- 


SEPT.]  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  501 

house  about  the  tenth  of  this  month,  and  the  others  successively, 
according  to  their  respective  degrees  of  tenderness,  so  that  the 
whole  collection  may  be  in,  by  the  eighteenth  or  twentieth  thereof, 
or  a  few  days  earlier  should  the  weather  happen  to  be  cold.  Here 
they  are  to  remain,  closing  the  windows  at  night  and  giving  them  all 
the  air  possible  on  warm  and  mild  days,  till  towards  the  end  of  the 
month,  or  sooner  if  you  have  the  bark-pit  renewed,  and  the  Hot- 
house ready  for  their  reception. 

When  you  have  every  thing  in  readiness,  dress  the  plants,  by 
picking  off  all  decayed  leaves,  and  especially  those  which  are  annoy- 
ed with  insects,  cut  away  all  awkward  and  ill  placed  branches,  and 
give  each  pot  a  fresh  top  dressing  of  suitable  compost,  then  plunge 
the  whole  to  their  rims  in  the  bark-pit,  placing  the  smallest  in 
front  and  the  tallest  behind  The  succulent  sorts  and  such  as  you 
have  not  room  for  in  the  pit,  may  be  set  on  shelves  arranged  over 
the  flues,  &c. 

Now  the  plants  being  in  order  and  placed  in  their  winter  quar- 
ters, it  will  be  of  much  importance  to  give  them  plenty  of  air  every 
favourable  day,  by  sliding  open  the  upright  glasses,  arid  also  the 
roof  lights,  if  necessary,  in  order  to  prevent  their  being  drawn  up 
too  tender  before  winter;  for  the  fresh  bottom  heat  will  give 
new  action  to  the  plants,  and  render  abundance  of  air  the  more  neces- 
sary ;  observe,  however,  to  close  the  lights  every  evening  when  the 
house  is  tolerably  warm,  and  to  open  them  as  early  in  the  morning 
as  you  find  the  thermometer  up  to  60  degrees  of  Fahrenheit. 

It  is  scarcely  necessary  to  mention  that  every  plant  must  have  a 
due  supply  of  water  from  time  to  time,  according  to  its  nature  and 
necessity. 

Pine 


Succession  pine  plants  which  are  expected  to  produce  fruit  next 
year,  may  in  the  first  week  of  this  month,  if  omitted  in  July  and 
August,  be  shifted  as  there  directed  ;  but  on  no  account  should  this 
be  delayed  longer.  Where  it  had  been  done  in  the  preceding 
months,  and  at  that  time  no  fresh  tan  added,  it  will  now  be  neces- 
sary to  examine  the  heat  of  the  bark-bed  in  the  succession  house, 
wherein  the  plants  in  general  are  plunged,  and  if  you  find  it  very 
weak,  fork  up  the  tan  to  the  bottom  and  plunge  the  pots  again  imme- 
diately to  their  rims, 

This  will  revive  the  heat  of  the  bed,  and  continue  it  in  a  due 
temperature  till  next  month,  when  the  plants  must  be  removed 
into  the  fruiting-house  and  plunged  in  a  bed  made  wholly  of  new 
tan. 

The  younger  succession  pines,  intended  to  succeed  those,  if  not 
lately  done,  should  now  be  shifted  into  larger  pots,  the  tan  forked  up, 
and  the  pots  replunged  immediately,  after  having  received  a  little 
water. 

Crowns  and  Suckers. 

The  crowns  and  suckers  of  this  year's  production,  will  require  a 
brisk  bottom  heat,  to  enable  the  plants  to  make  good  roots  before 


502  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  SEPT.] 

winter  :  therefore,  examine  the  bed  and  if  it  is  declined  in  heat  fork 
it  up  and  replunge  the  pots  immediately  ;  but  if  these  were  placed 
on  a  dung  hot-bed  it  may  be  necessary  to  renew  the  heat  by  a  lin- 
ing of  fresh  hot  dung  applied  to  the  sides,  or  to  the  sides  ant',  ends  ; 
or  if  the  bed  is  much  sunk,  to  work  it  up  afresh  adding  some  new 
dung  thereto,  laying  on  the  top,  as  before,  several  inches  oi  light 
earth  or  tan,  in  which  to  plunge  the  pots.  After  this  it  will  be 
necessary  to  give  a  considerable  portion  of  air  to  the  plants,  and  to 
raise  the  glasses  behind,  when  you  find  the  steam  rising  in  the 
bed.  When  the  nights  begin  to  grow  cold,  cover  the  glasses 
carefully  with  mats,  and  be  very  cautious  not  to  keep  your  lights 
close  in  sunny  days. 

All  your  succession  pines  should  have  plenty  of  air  at  this  season, 
which  with  a  moderate  and  steady  bottom  heat  will  keep  them  in  a 
growing  and  prosperous  state,  but  by  no  means  are  they  to  be 
forced  too  much,  nor  too  much  confined  ;  as  by  such  treatment 
some  of  the  most  forward  might  start  into  fruit  at  an  untimely  sea- 
son, and  all  would  be  rendered  more  unfit  to  bear  the  vicissitudes  of 
the  winter  season,  than  if  they  were  properly  inured  to  the  air  and 
gradually  hardened  ;  but  still  there  may  be  an  excess  in  this  as  well 
as  the  other,  both  of  which  are  equally  to  be  avoided. 

Procuring  fresh   Tan. 

About  the  latter  end  of  this  month  you  should  procure  a  quantity 
of  fresh  tan  from  the  tan-yards,  for  the  purpose  of  making  new  beds 
in  the  next  month,  for  those  plants  which  you  expect  to  produce 
fruit  in  the  ensuing  year;  and  also  for  the  succession  pines.  When  the 
•tan  is  brought  home  it  will  be  proper  to  throw  it  up  in  a  heap  to  drain 
and  ferment,  for  ten  or  twelve  days  before  it  is  put  into  the  .pits. 
But  if  it  is  very  wet,  as  is  commonly  the  case  when  thrown  up  out 
of  the  tan-vats,  it  should  be  spread  thinly  for  two  or  three  days, 
that  the  sun  and  air  may  draw  off  or  exhale  the  superabundant 
moisture  ;  for  if  used  too  wet,  it  would  be  a  long  time  before  it 
would  acquire  a  sufficient  degree  of  heat. 

Prepare  Composts. 

The  composts  proper  for  pines  are  described  in  page  446,  and  if 
you  have  not  hitherto  prepared  such  as  may  be  wanted  next  season, 
that  business  should  be  delayed  no  longer. 

For  most  of  the  shrubby  tribe  and  herbaceous  plants  of  the 
Hot-house,  prepare  equal  parts  of  good  light  garden  earth,  and 
mellow  surface  loam  from  a  rich  pasture  ground,  with  the  turf; 
add  to  these  a  fourth  of  very  rotten  or  old  hot-bed  dung,  and  let 
the  whole  be  duly  incorporated,  and  exposed  to  the  weather  several 
momhs  before  it  is  used,  turning  the  heap  over  every  five  or  six 
weeks. 


OCT.]  503 


OCTOBER. 

WORK  TO  BE  DONE  IN  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN. 

Winter  Spinach. 

WEED  and  thin  your  advancing  crops  of  spinach  ;  in  doing 
this,  observe  to  leave  the  best  plants,  and  at  the  distance  of  three, 
four,  or  five  inches  asunder,  according  to  the  progress  in  growth 
of  the  successive  crops  ;  leaving  the  greatest  space  between  the 
most  forward  in  growth.  Or  the  plants  may  only  be  moderately  thin- 
ned now,  in  order  to  admit  of  drawing  some  out,  by  degrees,  for  use. 

Some  of  the  spinach  sown  in  August  will  be  now  fit  for  the 
table,  and  if  the  plants  were  left  too  thick,  let  them  be  thinned  out 
regularly,  by  pulling  some  up  by  the  roots  as  they  are  wan  led  for 
use  ;  but  if  the  plants  were  properly  thinned  before,  gather  only  the 
outside  large  leaves,  and  the  others  will  advance  for  culinary  pur- 
poses in  regular  succession. 

Let  it  be  particularly  observed,  that  spinach  will  rot  off  wherever 
the  weeds  spread  over  it,  and  that,  consequently,  it  is  necessary 
to  keep  it  very  clean. 

Lettuce. 

In  the  first  week  of  this  month  transplant  from  the  seed  beds, 
into  others,  of  light  rich  earth,  in  a  warm  exposure,  and  of  such 
dimensions  as  to  be  covered  with  your  frames  on  the  approach  of 
frost,  the  lettuce  plants  arising  from  the  late  August  or  early  Sep- 
tember sowings.  Plant  them  in  rows  five  or  six  inches  distant 
every  way,  so  that  every  second  plant  may  be  taken  up  either  for 
use  or  future  planting,  leaving  the  others  sufficient  room  to  gr^w, 
and  to  head  in  the  greatest  perfection. 

Likewise  plant  some  stout  plants  immediately  in  frames,  for  use 
in  the  latter  end  of  November,  December,  &c.  covering  them  only 
at  night  till  the  severe  frosts  set  in. 

Lettuces  designed  to  remain  where  sown,  till  spring,  should 
be  duly  thinned  as  they  advance  in  growth,  and  always  kept  free 
from  weeds. 

The  various  successive  crops  of  lettuces  should  be  transplanted, 
where  they  are  to  remain  during  winter,  whether  on  warm  borders, 
in  slight  hot-beds,  or  under  frames  and  glasses,  as  early  in  th's 
month  as  they  shall  have  attained  to  two  or  three  inches  in  growth  ; 
and  indeed  a  judicious  gardener  will  always  have  a  regular  succes- 
sion of  these  plants,  to  guard  against  every  kind  of  disappointment, 
and  the  better  to  insure  a  constant  supply. 

In  the  middle  states,  if  the  winter  is  tolerably  mild,  but  parti- 
cularly in  the  southern  states,  lettuces  will  stand  in  warm 


504  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  [OCT. 

south  borders  of  light  sandy  ground,  with  a  very  slight  protection, 
and  afford  an  early  supply  in  spring ;  in  these  beds  or  borders  they 
may  be  planted  at  the  distance  of  three  or  four  inches  every  way, 
and  the  supernumerary  plants  may  be  taken  up  in  March  and 
planted  either  into  hot-beds  for  forcing,  or  into  other  beds  in  warm 
exposures,  for  heading  in  due  season. 

The  lettuces  which  you  plant  in  warm  borders  in  the  open  ground 
may,  on  the  approach  of  winter,  be  protected  by  placing  hoops 
over  the  beds,  on  which  to  lay  mats  or  other  covering  in  severe 
weather ;  or  by  placing  a  frame  of  boards  round  them  on  which  to 
lay  others  slightly  covered  with  litter,  when  necessity  requires ; 
or  by  sticking  in  small  branches  of  pine  or  cedar  between  the 
rows,  which  will  yield  them  considerable  protection,  especially  if 
some  long  dry  straw  be  laid  over  these  in  frosty  or  cutting  weather. 
Or  you  may  stick  clown  forked  sticks,  about  a  foot  high,  lay  long 
poles  from  one  fork  to  another,  and  on  these,  boughs  of  pine  or 
cedar  pretty  thick,  and  likewise  round  the  edges  of  the  beds  ;  those 
branches  being  supported  ten  or  twelve  inches  above  the  plants, 
will  admit  a  free  circulation  of  air,  and  prevent  mouldiness.  This 
protection  is  not  to  be  given  until  the  svere  frosts  commence,  nor 
is  it  then  to  be  taken  entirely  off,  especially  in  sun-shine,  until 
after  the  general  thaw  takes  place  in  spring  :  in  very  mild  dry  days 
when  the  sun  does  not  shine,  or  when  it  is  not  powerful,  you  may 
take  off  the  covering  for  a  few  hours  to  air  the  plants  ;  but  you 
must  as  carefully  guard  against  strong  sun-shine,  especially,  to- 
wards the  latter  end  of  February,  as  against  the  most  severe  frosts ; 
for  after  tender  plants  are  severely  pinched  by  frost,  a  too  powerful 
sun,  litterally  desolves  and  destroys  them  ;  whereas,  if  they  were 
protected  from  such,  till  gradually  recovered,  and  the  commence- 
ment of  free  vegetation,  there  would  not  be  the  least  danger  of  their 
success.  This  is  not  common  to  lettuces  only,  but  to  cabbage  and 
cauliflower  plants,  stock-gilly  flowers,  wallflowers,  and  every  other 
kind  that  can  be  in  the  least  affected  by  frost. 

In  the  beginning  of  this  month  sow  some  of  the  brown  Dutch, 
hardy  cabbage,  Hammersmith  hardy  green,  and  green  cos  lettuces, 
in  a  frame  or  frames,  to  be  kept  where  sown,  during  winter,  under 
the  protection  of  glasses,  Sec.  in  order  to  afford  a  supply  of  young 
plants,  for  forcing  or  planting  out  in  the  early  spring  months. 

Cabbage  Plants. 

The  young  cabbage  plants  arising  from  the  seeds  sown  last 
month,  and  intended  for  the  production  of  early  summer  cabbages, 
should  as  soon  in  this  month  as  they  shall  have  attained  a  sufficient 
size,  be  planted  into  the  beds  in  which  they  are  to  remain  during- 
winter. 

Let  abed  or  beds  be  prepared  for  them  in  a  warm  well  sheltered 
part  of  the  garden,  where  the  sun  has  the  greatest  power  ;  for  al- 
though direct  sun-shine,  when  the  plants  are  in  a  frozen  state,  is 
almost  certain  destruction  to  them,  yet  its  influence  will  prevent 
that  intense  frost  so  prevalent  in  colder  aspects,  and  when  the  plants. 


OCT.]  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  505 

at  such  times,   are  screened  from  the  direct  rays  of  the   sun,  its 
reflected  heat  comforts  without  injuring  them. 

The  beds  should  be  made  the  width  of  your  garden-frames,  and 
the  plants  set  therein  up  to  their  leaves,  in  rows  about  three  or 
four  inches  distant  every  way.  When  thus  transplanted  they  will 
survive  the  winter  much  better  than  in  the  seed-beds  ;  for  their 
long  stems  being  buried  into  the  earth,  are  protected  thereby  from 
alternate  freezing  and  thawing  and  the  effects  of  the  various 
changes  of  weather,  than  which  there  is  nothing  more  injurious  to 
tender  plants.  The  steins  of  these  and  cauliflower  plants,  are  in- 
jured before  the  foliage,  and  it  is  of  importance  to  keep  those  tender 
parts  in  an  equal  temperature,  by  which  they  will  be  preserved 
much  longer,  even  if  in  a  frozen  state,  than  if  they  were  exposed 
to  alternate  frost  and  heat. 

Select  good  plants  from  the  seed-beds  and,  when  planted,  give 
them  a  gentle  watering  to  settle  the  earth  about  their  roots,  observ- 
ing not  to  apply  it  too  hastily,  lest  you  wash  the  earth  into  their 
hearts. 

Put  on  the  frames  immediately,  and  also  the  lights,  but  the  glas- 
ses arc  now  to  be  continued  on,  only  for  fcur  or  five  days,  till  the 
plants  have  taken  fresh  root,  observing  during  that  period  to  shade 
the  plants  with  mats  or  other  protection  from  the  mid-day  sun  ; 
but  when  they  have  taken  sufficient  root,  the  lights  are  to  be  taken 
totally  off,  and  the  plants  left  fully  exposed  till  the  setting  in  cf 
smart  frosts,  except  in  very  cold  nights  or  during  the  prevalence 
of  cold  heavy  rains ;  for  it  is  of  considerable  moment  to  have  the 
plants  tolerably  hardy  on  the  commencement  of  severe  weather. 

But  if  they  happen  to  be  in  a  backward  state,  you  should  keep  on 
the  glasses  every  night  to  encourage  their  growth. 

When  you  have  not  the  convenience  of  glass,  you  may  defend 
the  plants  sufficiently  in  winter  by  means  of  boards  and  mats. 

Or,  in  the  middle  and  southern  states,  you  may  plant  some  in  a 
warm  border,  to  be  defended  in  like  manner  as  before  directed  for 
lettuces ;  and  if  the  winter  proves  tolerably  mild,  they  may  happen 
to  stand  it  pretty  well.  But  if  at  any  time,  particularly  towards 
the  end  of  February,  or  early  in  March,  you  expose  the  plants  to  a 
warm  sun,  while  they,  or  the  earth  in  which  they  stand  are 
in  a  frozen  state,  it  will  inevitably  destroy  them. 

You  should  in  mild  warm  weather,  when  the  sun  is  not  power- 
ful, give  them  an  occasional  airing,  and  the  oftener  this  can  be  done 
so  that  they  are  covered  up  again  in  due  time  the  better. 

Similar  precautions  are  to  be  used  with  plants  in  frames,  that  are 
frozen,  but  such'  as  are  not,  will  be  improved  by  exposing  them 
occasionally,  to  as  much  air  and  sun  as  prudence  may  warrant)  till 
planted  out  finally  in  March,  Sec. 

By  pursuing  this  method  you  will  have  much  earlier  and  larger 
cabbages,  than  can  be  expected  from  plants  sown  in  the  early 
spring  months. 

3  T 


506  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  [OCT. 


Cauliflowers. 

The  cauliflower  plants  are  to  be  treated  in  every  respect  as  di- 
rected for  cabbage  plants,  with  this  difference,  that  as  they  are 
somewhat  more  tender,  they  will  require  the  protection  and  advan- 
tage of  glasses  and  a  good  substantial  covering  to  defend  them  from 
severe  frosts ;  though  in  mild  winters  they,  with  due  care,  will 
survive  under  the  protection  of  garden  frames  covered  with  boards 
and  mats. 

As  the  cauliflower  plants  advance  in  growth,  it  will  be  proper  to 
strew  between  them  some  dry  tan,  saw-dust,  or  chaff,  so  as  to  cover 
the  stems  completely  up  to  the  leaves,  this  will  afford  great  protec- 
tion to  those  parts  which  are  always  found  to  be  the  most  vulnerable 
to  frost,  &c. 

If  you  find  that  in  consequence  of  ?.n  unfavourable  season,  or  of 
your  not  sowing  the  cauliflower  seed  in  due  time,  the  plants  to  be 
rather  backward,  you  should  prick  them  from  the  seed-bed  on  a 
slight  hot-bed  to  promote  their  growth,  but  in  this  case  you  must 
be  particularly  attentive  to  give  them  plenty  of  air,  that  the  plants 
may  be  stout  and  hardy  on  the  approach  of  severe  weather. 

You  should  carefully  protect  the  cauliflower  plants  from  exces- 
sive heavy  rains,  especially  when  the  nights  get  pretty  cold,  for 
such  are  very  injurious  to  them  and  frequently  cause  their  stems 
to  turn  black,  which  always  proves  destructive. 

In  the  southern  states  where  the  winters  are  mild,  and  where  it 
is  difficult  to  have  good  cauliflowers,  except  they  can  be  obtained 
at  an  early  season,  before  the  great  summer  heat  sets  in,  which  is 
very  inimical  to  those  plants,  the  only  sure  way  of  obtaining  them 
in  the  best  perfection  is,  to  be  provided  with  a  sufficient  number  of 
bell  or  hand  glasses,  under  which  to  plant  them  out  finally  about 
the  latter  end  of  this  month* 

The  ground  for  this  early  crop  should  be  very  rich,  tolerably 
light,  in  a  warm  situation,  and  where  water  is  not  apt  to  stand  in 
winter.  The  ground  is  to  be  previously  well  manured  with  old 
hot-bed  or  other  well  rotted  dung,  and  then  dug  one  good  spade 
deep  at  least,  breaking  it  effectually  and  incorporating  the  dung 
well  therewith. 

Then  lay  it  out  into  beds  three  feet  wide,  and  allow  alleys  a  foot 
wide  between  them,  for  the  conveniency  of  going  in  to  take  off, 
put  on,  or  raise  the  glasses,  8cc.  stretch  your  line  along  the  middle 
of  the  bed,  from  one  end  to  the  other,  and  at  every  three  feet  and  a 
half,  mark  the  places  for  the  glasses,  and  for  each,  put  in  three, 
four,  or  more  plants,  according  to  the  size  of  the  glasses,  and  within 
about  six  inches  of  one  another ;  close  the  earth  well  about  their 
roots  and  stems,  and  give  them  a  moderate  watering.  When  the 
whole  are  planted  set  on  your  glasses,  observing  to  place  one  over 
every  patch  of  plants  as  above. 

The  glasses  are  to  be  kept  close  down  for  about  eight  days  till 
the  plants  have  taken  fresh  root  and  begin  to  grow,  when  they  are 
to  be  raised  on  one  side  and  supported  with  pieces  of  wood,  stone, 


CCT.]  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  507 

or  brick-bats,  &c.  about  two  or  three  inches  thick ;  or  they  may  be 
supported  with  notched  wooden  pegs,  or  forked  sticks,  placing 
them  on  the  south  side,  one  prop  under  each  glass.  In  this  man- 
ner they  are  to  remain  night  and  day  until  the  frosts  set  in  ;  but 
if  the  plants  are  much  advanced  in  growth  before  that  period,  which 
will  seldom  be  the  case,  except  in  the  more  southern  states,  it  will 
be  proper  to  set  the  glasses  off  in  the  middle  of  mild,  dry  days,  but 
keep  them  always  over  the  plants  at  night  and  in  wet  or  frosty 
weather;  in  keeping  the  glasses  over  the  plants  to  defend  them  from 
excessive  or  incessant  rains,  if  open  mild  weather,  they  must 
be  raised  two  or  three  inches  on  the  warmest  side,  in  the  manner 
before  observed,  to  admit  a  sufficiency  of  air. 

When  the  frost  sets  in,  close  down  the  glasses,  and  keep  them 
so  during  its  continuance  ;  observing  on  a  favourable  change  to  give 
the  plants  a  little  air  occasionally,  and  to  pick  off  any  mouldy  or 
decayed  leaves.  As  early  in  spring  as  it  can  be  done  with  safety, 
plant  out  the  extra  plants  into  other  beds  similarly  prepared,  or 
rather  as  directed  in  April,  leaving  only  one  or  two  of  the  best 
under  each  glass,  at  the  same  time  draw  the  earth  up  round  the 
stems  of  those  left,  and  raise  the  glasses  on  props  as  the  plants 
advance  in  growth,  till  they  become  too  much  confined ;  then 
take  off  the  glasses  totally,  observing  to  earth  them  up  occasion- 
ally, and  finally  to  treat  them  as  directed  in  May. 

In  places  where  the  winters  are  somewhat  severe,  mats  or  straw 
should  be  placed  over  and  round  each  glass,  during  the  prevalence 
of  hard  frost. 

This  method  may  be  practised  successively  in  warm  soils  and 
exposures  in  the  middle  states  ;  but  it  will  require  more  than  ordi- 
nary care  to  preserve  them  in  good  perfection. 

The  late  spring  sown  cauliflowers,  will  now  begin  to  show  their 
heads  ;  therefore  they  must  be  diligently  looked  over,  two  or  three 
times  a  week,  to  break  down  some  of  the  inner  leaves  upon  the 
ilowers,  which  will  protect  them  from  sun,  frost,  and  wet,  either  of 
which  would  change  their  colour,  and  cause  them  to  be  unsightly. 

Broccoli  Cabbages^  &c. 

Early  in  this  month  give  a  general  hoeing  and  earthing  up,  to  all 
the  late  planted  advancing  crops  of  broccoli,  cabbages,  savoys  and 
borecole  ;  in  order  to  forward  and  strengthen  their  growth  as  much 
as  possible,  before  winter ;  Iikewise3  to  the  late  cauliflowers,  and 
every  other  of  the  cabbage  tribe, 

Mushroow.9, 

Having  the  dung  for  the  mushroom  bed  duly  prepared,  and  the 
spawn  in  readiness  as  advised  in  September,  you  should  in  the  first 
week,  or  rather  about  the  first  day  of  this  month,  begin  to  make 
the  bed. 

With  respect  to  the  situation  in  which  to  make  the  bed,  it  should 
be  in  an  elevated  part  of  the  hot-bed  yard,  or  in  some  dry,  and 


508  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  [OCT. 

well  sheltered  place.  The  bed  ought  to  be  made  entirely  on  the 
surface  of  the  ground,  rather  than  forming  a  shallow  trench  in  which 
to  make  the  bottom  part,  as  practised  by  some  ;  for  by  the  former 
method,  it  can  be  spawned  quite  to  the  bottom,  and  the  lower 
part  will  not  be  chilled  by  standing  water  in  cold  or  wet  weather, 
and  particularly  as  the  part  sunk  in  the  ground  may  be  considered 
as  totally  useless. 

The  width  of  the  bed  at  bottom  should  be  from  three  to  four  feet, 
and  any  length  you  please,  in  proportion  to  the  quantity  of  mush- 
rooms required,  orthe  quantity  of  spawn  with  which  you  are  pro- 
Tided. 

Being  furnished  with  a  three  tin ed  fork,  begin  to  make  the  bed 
by  shaking  some  of  the  longest  of  the  prepared  dung,  evenly  all 
along  the  bottom,  four  or  five  inches  thick ;  then  take  the  clung  in 
general  as  it  comes  and  work  it  into  the  bed,  gradually  narrowing  it 
upwards,  shaking  and  mixing  the  dung  as  you  proceed  and  beating 
it  down  with  the  fork  layer  by  layer:  proceed  in  this  manner  still 
drawing  in  the  sides  of  the  bed  till  it  terminates  in  a  narrow  ridge  at 
top,  so  that  the  bed  may  be  formed  like  the  roof  of  a  house :  be 
careful  that  each  end,  shall  be  sloped  in  like  manner  as  the  sides, 
and  that  all  parts  is  made  full  ar.dyirra  by  beating  it  with  the  fork  as 
you  proceed,  to  preserve  uniformity  and  to  prevent  its  settling  down 
too  much  in  an  unequal  manner :  it  should  be  full  three,  or 
three  and  a  half  feet  perpendicular  height  when  settled. 

When  the  bed  is  finished,  it  should  be  covered  with  long  straw 
laid  on  neatly  to  keep  out  wet,  and  also  to  prevent  its  drying  ;  in 
this  state  it  is  to  remain  about  ten  or  twelve  days,  by  which  time  it 
will  be  in  a  fit  condition  to  be  spawned  ;  but  to  ascertain  the  state 
of  the  bed  with  the  greater  certainty,  put  in  a  few  long  sharp-pointr.d 
sticks  into  several  parts  thereof,  pull  out  and  feel  these  occasionally, 
carefully  attending  to  the  progress  cf  its  fermentation,  and  when 
you  find  the  heat  on  the  decline,  and  temperate,  that  is  the  time  to 
put  in  the  spawn  ;  for  a  violent  heat,  as  well  as  too  much  wet  would 
inevitably  destroy  it. 

The  bed  being  in  a  proper  temperature,  the  covering  of  straw 
should  be  taken  off,  and  the  sides  made  smooth  and  even  ;  then  lay 
all  over  the  bed  about  an  inch  thick  of  light  rich  earth,  not  wet.  In 
this  the  spawn  is  to  be  planted  in  rows  six  inches  asunder,  along  the 
sides  and  ends,  making  the  first  or  lowest  row,  six  inches  from  the 
surface  of  the  ground,  and  proceeding  upwards  row  by  row  to  the 
top,  observing  to  place  the  pieces  of  spawn  about  six  inches  asun- 
der, and  so  far  in,  as  to  touch  the  surface  of  the  dung.  This  done, 
lay  on  the  top  of  the  ridge,  paK  of  the  loose  or  scattered  spawn 
and  shake  some  all  over  the  bed  ;  then  cover  the  whole  about  an 
inch  and  a  half  deep  with  light  rich  earth,  smooth  the  surface  neatly, 
and  lay  on  a  light  covering  of  straw  as  before,  just  so  thick  as  to 
keep  out  wet  and  prevent  the  bed  from  drying. 

As  you  find  the  bed  decrease  in  heat  and  the  weather  grow  cold, 
increase  the  covering  to  a  foot,  eighteen  inches,  two  feet,  or  in  se- 
vere frost,  to  such  a  thickness  as  may  be  effectually  sufficient  to 
prevent  its  reaching  the  bed. 


OCT.]  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  509 

Two  or  three  beds  may  be  made  parallel  to  each  other  in  this 
way,  with  wide  alleys  between  them,  and  if  the  whole  were  to  be 
covered  with  a  shed,  especially  in  the  middle  and  eastern  states, 
it  would  be  found  of  considerable  advantage,  in  effectually  preserv- 
ing them  from  too  much  wet,  which  is  as  essentially  necessary  as 
their  preservation  from  frost. 

If  your  bed  is  in  a  due  temperature,  the  mushrooms  will  begin 
to  appear  in  about  four  or  five  weeks  after  its  being  made,  and 
with  proper  care  will  continue  in  bearing  several  months  :  when  you 
find  it  ceasing  to  produce,  in  consequence  of  cold,  lay  a  covering  of 
hot  stable  dung  seven  o-r  eight  inches,  or  in  hard  frosts,  near  a  foot 
thick  all  over  the  bed,  observing  to  leave  under  this,  between  it  and 
the  bed,  about  three  inches  thick  of  dry  straw,  covering  the  hot 
dung  over  with  the  remainder  of  the  straw  or  litter;  this  will 
revive  the  heat,  give  new  action  to  the  spawn,  and  should  be  repeated 
as  often  during  winter  as  it  may  be  found  necessary,  always  observ- 
ing to  preserve  the  bed  from  wet,  cold  and  frost. 

Sometimes  it  happens,  that  the  beds  do  not  produce  any  mush- 
rooms till  they  have  lain  five  or  six  months,  so  that  they  should 
not  be  destroyed  though  they  do  not  at  first  answer  the  expectation  ; 
for  such,  frequently  produce  great  quantities  afterwards,  and 
continue  bearing  a  long  time. 

A  good  bed  may  continue  productive,  for  three,  four,  five,  or  even 
twelve  months  ;  but  by  that  time  it  is  generally  worn  out ;  the  dung 
then  makes  excellent  manure,  and  the  interior  part  sometimes 
furnishes  very  good  spawn. 

The  great  skill  of  managing  these  beds,  is  that  of  keeping  them 
in  a  proper  degree  of  warmth  and  moisture,  never  suffering  them  to 
receive  much  wet :  during  the  summer  season  they  may  be  un- 
covered occasionally  to  receive  gentle  showers  of  rain,  when  thought 
necessary,  and  in  very  dry  seasons  the  beds  should  be  now  and  then 
opened,  gently  watered,  and  covered  up  soon  after ;  but  the  summer 
covering  need  be  no  thicker  than  what  is  necessary  to  preserve  the 
bed  from  the  drying  influence  of  the  weather. 

This  method  of  propagating  mushrooms  by  the  a/iawn^  or  the 
white  fibrous  radicles,  is  the  most  common ;  but  they  may  also  be 
increased  by  seed.  When  the  latter  method  is  used,  the  gills  are 
cut  out  and  put  into  the  beds  :  or  else  they  are  infused  in  water  and 
the  beds  sprinkled  with  the  infusion. 

When  the  bed  is  in  full  bearing,  it  should  be  examined  two  or 
three  times  a  week,  to  gather  the  produce,  turning  off  the  straw 
carefully,  and  collecting  the  mushrooms  white,  and  of  a  moderate 
size  :  taking  care  to  detach  them  from  the  bottom,  by  a  gentle 
twist,  pulling  the  stems  out  clean,  for  if  broke  or  cut  off,  the  re- 
maining parts  would  become  putrid  and  full  off  maggots,  and  conse- 
quently infectious  to  the  successional  plants. 

Where  mushrooms  are  greatly  admired,  and  expence  not  con- 
sidered an  object,  they  may  be  had  with  more  certainty,  in  greater 
abundance,  and  in  a  regular  succession,  by  making  the  beds  as  be-^ 
fore  directed,  under  a  range  of  glass  framing,  made  in  the  manner 
of  a  hot-house,  or  the  top  sloped  both  ways  like  the  roof  of  a  house ; 


510  THE  KITCHHEN-GARDEN.  [OCT. 

in  such  a  place,  they  could  be  effectually  defended  from  excessive 
wet,  cold,  frost,  and  snow,  and  would  consequently  be  very  produc- 
tive. Likewise,  if  in  this  place  there  is  a  pit,  like  that  in  a  hot- 
house, a  bed  of  dung  may  be  made  therein,  raised  at  top  above  the 
pit  in  a  rounding  manner,  on  which  the  spawn  is  placed,  earthed 
over  near  two  inches  thick,  and  then  covered  well  with  straw.  Or 
in  such  a  pit  you  may,  by  mixing  a  quantity  of  strong  horse  dung, 
moist  stable  litter,  and  rich  loamy  earth  together,  have  the  spawn 
generated ;  by  filling  the  pit  with  this  mixture,  the  dung  predomi- 
nating so  as  to  produce  a  slow  and  lasting  fermentation,  and  covering 
the  whole  over  with  about  an  inch  deep  of  light  earth  and  a  good 
coat  of  straw,  the  spawn  will  be  produced  ;  and  from  this,  abundant 
crops  of  mushrooms,  in  regular  succession  for  several  months. 

You  may  likewise  make  beds  in  the  common  hot -bed  way,  place 
thereon  frames  and  glasses,  and  when  the  violent  heat  is  abated, 
spawn  the  top  all  over,  cover  it  with  an  inch  and  a  half  or  two  inches 
of  earth,  then  thickly  with  straw,  and  lay  on  the  glasses  to  protect 
the  beds  from  rain. 

Mushroom  beds  may  be  made  in  any  month,  when  the  weather  is 
mild  and  dry,  but  those  made  in  the  beginning  of  this,  is  generally 
most  productive,  and  besides,  they  retain  more  heat  on  the  approach 
of  winter  than  if  made  in  September.  However  when  a  second  bed 
is  to  be  made  it  would  be  well  to  make  one  in  each  month. 

Endive. 

Continue  every  week  to  tie  up  some  full  grown  endive  for  blanch- 
ing, as  directed  in  page  453,  tying  no  more  at  a  time  than  in  pro- 
portion to  the  demand  or  consumption ;  for  if  it  is  not  used  soon 
after  being  sufficiently  blanched,  it  becomes  tender  and  is  subject 
to  rot,  especially  if  the  season  proves  wet.  Some  people  blanch 
endive  by  laying  boards  or  tiles  flat  on  the  plants  ;  they  will  whiten 
tolerably  well  by  this  method,  but  their  growth  during  the  period 
of  whitening  is  greatly  checked  thereby,  which  is  certainly  of 
some  importance. 

Others  draw  earth  round  the  endive  plants  efter  their  being  tied 
tip  in  the  usual  manner,  this  may  do  very  well  in  dry  weather,  but 
if  rain  ensues,  many  of  the  leaves  will  rot,  and  the  entire  be  greatly 
injured. 

If  you  have  stout  endive  plants,  and  neglected  in  September  to 
set  out  a  sufficient  number,  that  work  may  be  done  in  the  first 
week  of  this  month,  but  it  ought  not  to  be  deferred  longer  :  these 
late  plants  will  keep  better,  if  the  season  should  prove  favourable 
that  they  may  attain  a  tolerable  size,  than  those  of  a  more  forward 
growth. 

Or  to  preserve  late  endive  for  winter  use,  as  well  from  the 
effects  of  too  much  wet  as  frost,  you  may  in  the  first  week  of  this 
month,  prepare  a  sloping  bank  of  light  earth  in  a  warm  situation, 
the  sloping  side  fronting  the  south  and  the  bed  raised  two  feet 
higher  behind  than  in  front :  on  this  plant,  tolerably  close,  some 
stout  middle  sized  plants,  and  on  the  approach  of  severe  weather, 


OCT.]  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN. 

place  a  frame  and  glasses  over  the  bed,  and  in  hard  frost,  fill 
the  inside  immediately  over  the  plants  with  dry  straw,  thus  they 
will  be  protected  from  wet  and  frost  and  will  whiten  effectually 
under  the  covering  of  straw,  which  should  be  turned  occasionally 
to  prevent  that  part  next  the  plants  and  earth  from  becoming 
mouldy. 

For  further  particulars  respecting  the  preservation  of  endive,  see 
next  month. 

-Raising  young  Mint  and  Tarragon  for  use  in    Winter. 

Where  young  mint  and  tarragon  is  in  request  at  all  seasons, 
you  may,  towards  the  end  of  this  month,  make  a  slight  hot-bed 
and  set  the  plants  therein,  as  directed  in  page  1 1  ;  this  done,  put 
on  the  glasses,  and  observe  to  raise  them  behind  every  day  to  admit 
air,  and  prevent  the  young  rising  shoots  from  being  scorched  by 
the  effects  of  a  too  powerful  sun  beaming  on  the  lights  whilst 
close  shut.  The  young  productions  will  be  fit  for  use  in  about  three 
weeks,  or  a  month,  and  afford  a  supply  for  a  considerable  time. 

Winter-dressing  of  Asparagus  Beds. 

Towards  the  end  of  this  month,  if  the  stalks  of  your  asparagus 
turn  yellow,  which  is  a  sign  of  their  having  finished  their  growth 
for  the  season,  cut  them  down  close  to  the  earth  and  carry  them 
off*  the  ground  ;  clear  the  beds  carefully  from  weeds,  eradicating 
them  effectually  and  drawing  them  into  the  alleys. 

Asparagus  beds  in  general,  will  be  greatly  benefited  by  an  annual 
dressing  of  good  manure,  and  nothing  is  better  or  more  suitable  for 
them,  than  the  dung  of  old  hot-beds  ;  but  if  that  is  not  to  be  had, 
well  rotted  stable  manure  will  answer ;  let  it  be  laid  equally  over 
the  beds,  one,  two,  or  three  inches  deep,  according  to  necessity, 
after  which,  stretch  a  line  and  with  a  spade  mark  out  the  alleys 
from  about  eighteen  inches  to  two  feet  wide,  agreeably  to  their 
original  dimensions. 

Then  dig  the  alleys  one  spade  deep,  and  spread  a  considerable 
part  of  the  earth  evenly  over  the  beds ;  and  as  you  advance,  let  the 
weeds  which  were  raked  off  into  the  alleys,  be  dug  into  the  bottom 
of  the  trenches  and  covered  a  proper  depth  with  earth  ;  observe  to 
make  the  edges  of  the  beds  straight,  full,  and  neat,  and  to  finish 
your  work  in  a  becoming  manner,  giving  a  moderate  rounding  to 
the  beds,  especially  if  the  ground  be  inclined  to  wet. 

In  the  southern  states,  there  may  be  planted  in  each  alley,  a  row 
of  early  cabbage  plants ;  but  in  the  middle  and  eastern  states,  it 
would  be  well  to  fill  them  up  with  straw  or  old  litter,  well  tram- 
pled down,  which  would  in  some  measure,  prevent  the  frost  from 
entering  that  way  to  the  asparagus  roots. 

The  seedling  asparagus  which  was  sown  last  spring,  should 
also  now  have  a  slight  dressing ;  that  is  to  clear  the  bed  from 
weeds,  and  then  to  spread  an  inch  or  two  in  depth  of  dry  rotten 
dung  over  it,  to  defend  the  crowns  of  the  plants  from  frost. 


512  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  •    {OCT. 

The  asparagus  which  is  intended  for  forcing,  will  likewise  re- 
quire to  have  the  stalks  cut  down,  and  the  weeds  drawn  off  into  the 
alleys,  which  must  be  dug  to  bury  them,  and  as  you  proceed  spread 
a  little  of  the  earth  over  the  beds,  after  which,  they  are  to  be  treated 
as  noticed  next  month. 

I  would  not  advise  to  attempt  the  forcing  of  asparagus  sooner 
than  November,  as  before  that  period  the  roots  will  not  be  com- 
pletely matured  ;  however,  you  may  about  the  middle,  or  towards 
the  latter  end  of  this  month,  begin  to  prepare  hot-beds  for  the  re- 
ception of  the  roots,  early  in  November.  See  the  method  in 
page  115. 

Ctlery  and  Cardoons. 

In  dry  weather,  continue  to  earth  up  celery  and  cardoons,  to 
blanch  them,  as  directed  in  page  471.  For  the  method  of  pre- 
serving them  in  winter,  see  next  month. 

Aromatic  and  Medicinal  Herbs,  &c. 

Cut  down  all  the  decayed  flower  stems  and  shoots  of  the  various 
kinds  of  aromatic,  pot,  and  medicinal  herbs,  close  to  the  heads  of 
the  plants,  or  to  the  surface  of  the  ground,  according  to  the  nature 
or  growth  of  the  different  sorts;  at  the  same  time,  clear  the  beds 
very  well  from  weeds  and  litter,  and  cary  the  whole  off  the  ground. 

Lavender,  thyme,  hyssop,  winter  savory,  southern  wood,  sage, 
rue,  and  the  like  undershrubby  kinds,  will  require  only  their 
tops  or  heads  to  be  neatly  dressed ;  but  pot  marjoram,  bauna, 
burnet,  tarragon,  tansey,  penny-royal,  sorrel,  chamomile,  fennel, 
marsh  mallows,  horehound,  mint  of  every  kind,  angelica,  lovage, 
and  every  kind  of  herbaceous  perennial  herbs,  should  be  cut  down 
pretty  close  to  the  ground. 

After  this  it  will  be  proper,  in  beds  where  the  plants  stand 
distant  from  one  another,  to  lightly  dig  and  loosen  the  ground 
between  them ;  or,  in  old  beds  it  would  be  a  great  advantage  to 
spread  some  very  rotten  dung  equally  over  the  surface,  and  with 
a  small  spade  or  trowel,  to  dig  it  in  lightly  between  the  plants ;  if 
they  are  in  beds  with  alleys  between  them,  dig  the  alleys  and  spread 
a  little  of  the  loose  earth  over  the  beds,  leaving  the  edges  full  and 
straight. 

But  the  beds  of  close  growing  running  plants,  such  as  mint, 
penny-royal,  and  the  like  creeping  herbs,  will  not  well  admit  of 
digging ;  therefore  after  the  stalks  are  cut  down  and  the  beds 
cleared  from  weeds,  dig  the  alleys  and  strew  some  of  the  loose 
earth  evenly  over  the  beds;  and  if  the  ground  be  rather  poor,  a 
light  top  dressing  of  very  rotten  dung  will  be  of  considerable 
service. 

This  dressing  will  give  proper  culture,  and  protection  to  the 
roots  of  the  plants,  a  neat  appearance  to  the  whole,  and  in  spring 
the  shoots  will  rise  with  renewed  vigour. 

Early  in  the  month  you  may  plant,  where  wanted,  well  rooted 
young  plants  of  thyme,  hyssop,  winter  savory,  lavender,  or  the 


OCT.]       .  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  513 

like,  into  four  feet  wide  beds,  or  in  any  warm  borders,  in  rows  a  foot 
asunder.  You  may  also  divide  and  plant  roots  of  mint,  chamo- 
mile,  horehound,  and  likewise  any  of  the  preceding,  or  other  herba- 
ceous perennial  herbs  that  you  are  desirous  of  propagating.  For 
further  particulars  see  page  198. 

Small  Sallading. 

Where  a  constant  succession  of  small  sallad-herbs  is  required, 
continue  to  sow  the  seeds  accordingly  every  ten  or  fourteen  days  ; 
particularly,  cresses,  radish,  rape,  mustard  and  lettuce,  to  cut  while 
young.  But  in  the  middle  and  eastern  states,  these  should  be 
sown  at  this  season,  particularly  towards  the  latter  end  of  the  month, 
in  very  warm  borders  under  the  protection  of  frames  and  glasses, 
for  the  greater  certainty  of  having  a  constant  supply.  The  glasses 
should  be  kept  totally  off  every  warm  day,  and  only  put  on  at  night 
or  when  the  weather  is  very  cold  or  excessively  wet. 

In  the  middle  states,  when  the  season  is  favourable,  small  sallad- 
ing  will  grow  free  enough  any  time  this  month  in  warm  borders, 
but  it  will  be  proper  to  have  frames  and  glasses  to  place  over  them, 
if  necessity  should  require  it. 

Elecampane. 

The  seeds  of  the  Inula  Helenium,  or  elecampane,  should  now  be 
sown,  for  if  kept  up  till  spring  few  would  vegetate  till  the  year  fol- 
lowing ;  but  when  sown  either  in  this,  or  the  next  month,  the  plants 
will  rise  freely  in  spring,  and  may  be  planted  out  the  succeding 
autumn. 

Most  people  propagate  this  plant  by  offsets,  which  if  care- 
fully taken  from  the  old  roots  with  a  bud  or  eye  to  each,  will 
take  root  freely,  and  this  is  a  very  proper  period  for  so  doing. 
These  should  be  planted  in  rows  about  a  foot  asunder,  and  the 
same  distance  plant  from  plant  in  the  rows ;  during  the  ensuing 
spring  and  summer,  the  ground  must  be  kept  clean  and  free  from 
weeds,  and  in  autumn  it  should  be  slightly  dug,  which  will  promote 
the  growth  of  the  roots ;  they  will  be  fit  for  use  after  two  years 
growth  but  will  abide  many  years  if  permitted  to  stand  ;  how- 
ever, the  young  roots  are  preferable  to  those  that  are  old  and 
stringy.  It  loves  a  loamy  soil,  not  too  dry. 

This  plant  is  possessed  of  many  medicinal  virtues,  on  which  account 
it  is  very  deserving  of  cultivation.  An  infusion  of  the  fresh  root 
sweetened  with  honey,  is  said  to  be  .an  excellent  medicine  in  the 
hooping  cough. 

Dill,  Alexanders^  Skirrets,  Rhubarb,  and  Sea  Kale. 

The  seeds  of  dill,  alexanders,  skirrets,  rhubarb,  and  sea-kale, 
should  now  be  sown  ;  for  if  kept  out  of  the  ground  till  spring,  many 
of  them  would  not  vegetate  for  a  year  after  ;  but  when  sown  in 
this,  or  the  next  month,  if  the  seeds  are  fresh  and  perfect,  good 

3  tr 


514  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  [OCT. 

crops  may  be  expected  to  rise  therefrom  in  March  or  April.  For 
the  methods  of  sowing  and  treating  them,  see  the  Kitchen- Garde n 
for  March. 

Shallots,  Chives,  Garlick,  and  Rocambole. 

This  is  a  very  proper  season  to  plant  roots  of  shallots,  chives, 
garlick,  and  rocambole ;  for  the  method  of  planting  them,  see 
page  190. 

Horse-Radish  and  Scurvy   Grass. 

You  may  now  plant  roots  of  the  Cochlearia  Amnoracia,  or  horse- 
radish, in  dry,  rich  ground,  agreeably  to  the  directions  given  in 
page  201  ;  but  in  moist  soil,  March  will  be  a  preferable  time. 

This  is  a  proper  season  to  sow  some  seed  of  the  Cochlearia  officinalis, 
or  common  officinal  scurvy-grass ;  from  this  sowing  the  plants  will 
rise  freely  in  spring,  and  generally  succeed  better  than  if  sown  at 
that  season.  I  do  not  mean  what  is  commonly  used  for  an  early 
spring  sallad,  and  generally  called  scurvy-grass  ;  for  the  sowing 
of  which,  I  have  given  directions  in  page  455,  under  the  name  of 
Winter  Cresses. 

Ordinary  work. 

Give  a  general  hoeing  and  weeding  to  all  your  crops,  and  carry 
the  weeds  immediately  out  of  the  garden,  lest  they  shed  their  seeds 
and  lay  the  foundation  of  much  trouble  ;  likewise  clean  all  vacant 
quarters  from  weeds,  and  from  the  decayed  stalks  of  peas,  beans, 
cabbages,  &c. 

Such  spaces  of  ground  as  are  now  vacant,  should  be  dunged  and 
dug,  or  trenched,  that  it  may  have  the  true  advantage  of  fallow  in 
the  winter  season. 

If  the  ground  is  of  a  stiff1  or  heavy  nature,  throw  it  up  into  high 
sloping  ridges,  for  the  reasons  assigned  in  page  1. 

Taking  up,  the  roots  of  Carrots,  Beets,  &c. 

About  the  latter  end  of  the  month  you  may  begin  to  take  up 
the  roots  of  full  grown  carrots,  beets,  parsneps,  turneps,  Jerusalem 
artichokes,  &c.  which  are  to  be  preserved  as  directed  in  November. 

Southern  States. 

In  Georgia,  South  Carolina,  and  the  parts  of  North  Carolina 
south  of  the  35th  degree  of  Latitude,  you  may  now  sow  the  seeds  of 
carrot,  parsnep,  beet,  onion,  parsley,  cresses,  spinach,  and  several 
other  kinds  of  hardy  garden  vegetables:  plant  out  from  the 
seed-beds  cabbage  and  cauliflower  plants.  Sow  peas,  and  plant 
early  Mazagan,  and  Windsor  beans,  with  every  other  variety  of 
the  Vicia  Fab  a. 

In  North  Carolina,  generally,  Tennessee,  and  the  southern  parts  of 
Virginia  and  Kentuckey,  you  may  sow  peas,  plant  the  above  species 


OCT.]  THE  FRUIT-GARDEN.  515 

of  bean,  sow  carrot,  parsnep,  onion,  parsley,  and  other  hardy  seeds  ; 
plant  out  cabbages,  and  also  cauliflower  plants ;  but  the  cauli- 
flowers, if  the  winter  is  any  way  severe,  will  require  the  protection 
of  hand  glasses,  oiled-paper  caps,  frames,  or  the  like,  as  directed 
in  page  506. 


THE  FRUIT-GARDEN. 


Gathering   Winter  Pears  and  Apples. 

GATHER  your  winter  pears  and  apples  as  they  ripen;  but 
for  particulars,  seethe  article  Orchard  for  this  month. 

Priming. 

Towards  the  latter  end  of  the  month,  you  may  begin  to  prune 
such  trees  as  have  completely  shed  their  leaves,  but  by  no  means 
lay  your  knife  to  a  tree,  fora  general  pruning,  till  this  is  the  case. 

In  the  middle  states  I  would  not  recommend  the  pruning  of 
peach,  nectarine,  almond,  and  apricot  trees,  before  the  latter  end  of 
February,  nor  in  the  eastern  states  before  the  first  week  in  March  ; 
but  they  should  not  be  much  longer  neglected.  In  the  southern 
states,  they  may  be  pruned  at  any  time  between  the  periods  in 
which  they  shed  their  leaves  and  the  latter  end  of  January. 

Apples,  pears,  plumbs  and  cherries,  being  perfectly  hardy,  may 
be  pruned,  in  any  part  of  the  United  States,  immediately  after 
they  drop  their  leaves,  or  in  November,  December,  or  January, 
8cc.  But  were  it  not  on  account  of  performing  work,  when  it  can 
mast  conveniently  be  done^  I  would  prefer  early  spring  pruning  of 
all  kinds  of  trees  to  any  other,  on  account  of  the  recent  wounds, 
healing  and  covering  over  with  bark  more  immediately,  when 
vegetation  soon  follows,  than  those  anteriorly  inflicted. 

For  the  method  of  pruning  the  various  kinds  of  wall  and  espa- 
lier fruit-trees,  &c.  see  page  15,  8cc. 

Planting  Fruit -Trees. 

Towards  the  latter  end  of  this  month,  you  may  safely  transplant 
most  sorts  of  fruit-trees,  but  particularly  such  kinds  as  shall  have 
by  that  time  shed  their  leaves.  This  may  be  done  to  advantage 
during  the  entire  of  next  month,  if  the  season  continues  open, 
provided  the  ground  in  which  you  plant  be  dry  and  docs  not  lodge 
water  in  the  winter  months ;  and  likewise,  that  sufficient  pains  be 
taken  to  make  each  tree  fast  in  its  place,  by  nailing  or  binding  it 


516  THE  FRUIT-GARDEN.  [OCT. 

up  in  such  a  manner  as  not  to  be  rocked  about  by  the  winds ; 
otherwise  spring  planting  if  clone  early  in  March  will  be  more  suc- 
cessful, particularly  for  the  peach,  nectarine  and  almond. 

Note.  In  the  more  southern  states  of  the  Union  the  planting  of 
the  more  hardy  kinds  of  fruit  and  other  trees,  should  be  com- 
pleted before  the  end  of  January,  on  account  of  the  early  vegeta- 
tion in  those  regions. 

If  the  borders  wherein  trees  are  to  be  planted,  either  for  the  wall 
or  espalier,  be  new,  they  should  be  trenched  at  least  two  feet  deep  if 
the  good  soil  admits  thereof;  but  if  not,  they  should  be  made  of 
that  depth  by  adding  thereto  a  sufficiency  of  good  mellow  fertile 
soil,  such  as  fresh  surface  loam,  &c.  this  should  be  worked  to  the 
depth  of  two  feet,  at  least,  with  the  soil  of  the  border,  and  it  would  be 
of  great  advantage  to  add  some  good  rotten  dung,  previous  to  the 
trenching.  But  if  a  sufficient  quantity  of  fresh  soil  cannot  be  con- 
veniently obtained  for  the  whole,  you  may  sink  one,  two,  or  three 
wheel  barrows  full,  together  with  some  rotten  dung  in  the  place 
where  each  tree  is  to  be  planted. 

However,  where  the  groundjis  already  of  a  good  quality,  as  that 
of  a  common  kitchen-garden,  Sec.  the  above  assistance  will  not  be 
necessary,  as  trees  will  prosper  sufficiently  well  in  any  soil  that 
is  productive  of  good  garden  vegetables. 

As  to  aspect,  your  latest  ripening  fruits,  particularly  late  peaches, 
should  have  a  warm  exposure,  and  also  some  of  the  earliest  ripen- 
ing of  the  various  kinds  of  fruit,  on  account  of  having  them  in  per- 
fection at  an  early  period.  For  the  method  of  planting,  and  proper 
distances,  Sec.  see  page  213. 

Planting  Gooseberries. 

Towards  the  latter  end  of  this  month,  or  early  in  November,  is 
the  best  time  in  the  year  to  plant  trees  of  this  delicious  and  very 
valuable  fruit. 

You  may  plant  them  round  the  borders  of  the  best  quarters  of 
your  kitchen  garden,  about  two  feet  and  a  half,  or  three  feet  from 
the  walks,  and  from  six  to  eight  feet  distant  from  one  another. 
Or  they  may  be  planted  in  continued  plantations,  the  rows  from  eight 
to  ten  feet  asunder  and  the  plants  six  or  seven  feet  apart,  in  the 
rows.  In  the  latter  case  the  ground  between  the  rows  may  be 
occupied  with  winter  spinach,  corn-sallad,  lettuces,  and  winter  cres- 
ses ;  and  in  spring  and  summer,  with  rows  of  sallading  of  va- 
rious kinds,  dwarf  peas  and  beans,  or  any  other  low  growing  crops  : 
but  it  must  be  particularly  observed,  always  to  keep  the  ground 
under  and  immediately  contiguous  to  each  bush,  free  from  weeds 
or  crops  of  any  kind ;  for  if  damps  and  moisture  are  confined 
about  the  bushes  in  this  way,  the  fruit  will  mildew  and  become 
useless. 

It  will  be  in  vain  to  expect  fine  fruit,  unless  you  have  good  kinds^ 
and  give  them  the  best  ground  possible,  a  plentiful  supply  of  ma- 
nure annually, frequent  culture,  and  regular  pruning. 

The  best  time  to  plant  them  out  finally,  is  when  they  have  had 
oi>e  or  two  years  growth  from  cuttings  j  or  indeed  the  cuttings 


OCT.]  THE  FRUIT-GARDEN.  517 

may  with  great  propriety,  be  planted  where  they  are  to  remain 
for  fruiting:  Old  gooseberry  bushes  seldom  bear  large  fruit  after 
being  transplanted,  unless  they  are  carefully  removed  with  large 
balls  of  earth  round  their  roots. 

Previous  to  planting,  each  young  tree  should  be  pruned  up  to 
one  clean  stem  of  eight,  to  ten,  or  twelve  inches,  before  you  form 
the  head  ;  for  when  they  are  suffered  to  branch  away  immediately 
from  the  bottom,  they  by  spreading  out  so  near  the  ground,  will 
impede  the  growth  of  any  crops  that  grow  near  them,  and  in  the 
occasional  and  very  necessary  business  of  manuring,  digging,  hoe- 
ing, weeding,  Sec.  will  be  very  troublesome  to  work  between. 

For  further  observations  on  the  planting  of  gooseberries,  see 
pages,  130  and  284. 

Pruning  and  Propagating  Gooseberries. 

The  latter  part  of  this  month  and  the  entire  of  the  next,  will  be  a 
very  suitable  season  for  the  pruning  of  gooseberries.  It  is  a  prac- 
tise too  common  in  pruning  these  trees,  to  let  them  branch  out 
with  long  naked  stems,  suffering  them  to  remain  in  that  state  for 
many  years.  When  that  is  already  the  case,  they  should  be  cut 
down,  or  considerably  shortened,  to  promote  a  free  growth  of  healthy, 
young  shoots,  which  will  bear  fruit  abundantly  the  second 
year.  But  for  general  instructions  on  this  head  see  page  24. 

You  may  now  plant  cuttings  of  the  various  kinds  of  gooseberries 
which  you  wish  to  propagate ;  for  the  necessary  instructions,  see 
page  284. 

Note.  New  varieties  of  gooseberries  may  be  obtained  by  sowing 
seeds  of  the  best  kinds  you  are  able  to  procure,  either  in  this,  or 
any  of  the  autumn  months,  in  beds  in  the  open  ground,  or  in  boxes 
of  good  earth.  From  these  sowings  the  plants  will  rise  freely 
in  spring,- and  by  the  autumn  or  spring  following,  may  be  planted 
in  nursery  rows,  to  remain  another  season,  after  which  they  are 
to  be  finally  planted  out  for  fruiting :  or  they  may  remain  where 
planted  from  the  seed-bed  till  they  shew  specimens  of  fruit ;  then 
those  that  are  good  are  to  be  taken  due  care  of,  the  others,  which, 
by  the  bye,  will  be  the  far  greater  number,  may  be  thrown  away. 

If  the  seed  is  kept  out  of  the  ground  till  spring,  scarcely  any  of 
it  will  vegetate  till  that  time  twelve  months  ;  therefore,  it  is  ne- 
cessary either  to  sow  it  in  autumn,  or  to  preserve  it  in  damp  earth 
or  sand,  till  February,  or  March.  If  sown  in  autumn  cover  it  near 
half  an  inch  deep  with  loose,  rich  earth,  but  if  in  spring,  a  quarter 
of  an  inch  will  be  sufficient. 

Planting  Raspberries. 

There  are  many  varieties  of  the  Rubus  idtzus,  or  European 
raspberry,  but  the  most  preferable  are  the  large  common  red,  the 
large  common  white,  the  red  Antwerp,  and  the  white  Antwerp 
raspberries. 


518  THE  FRUIT-GARDEN.  [OCT. 

The  smooth  cane  double-bearing  raspberry,  is  cultivated  in  some 
places,  as  it  produces  one  crop  of  fruit  in  June,  and  another  in 
October ;  but  the  fruit  are  few  and  small,  which  has  occasioned  its 
being  neglected. 

Of  the  Rubus  occidentalism  or  American  raspberry,  we  have  two 
varieties,  the  black  fruited  ;  and  the  red  fruited  ;  the  latter  is  prefera- 
ble in  taste  and  flavour  to  the  black  variety. 

Raspberries  do  not  thrive  well  under  the  shade  of  trees,  nor  in 
such  situations  are  their  fruit  well  flavoured ;  therefore,  they  should 
be  planted  in  a  detached  airy  piece  of  ground,  naturally  good,  or 
artificially  made  so.  As  to  the  choice  of  plants  and  method  of 
planting  them,  I  refer  you  to  page  214. 

Such  as  you  plant  between  the  middle  and  latter  end  of  this 
month,  will  make  new  roots  before  winter,  and  produce  some  good 
fruit  next  season  ;  but  in  the  year  following,  they  will  bear  plenti- 
fully. 

Dressing  and  Pruning  Raspberries. 

When  your  new  plantations  are  finished,  and  all  the  stout,  strag- 
gling suckers,  taken  away  for  that  purpose,  dig  the  ground  of  the 
old  standing  plantations  carefully,  clearing  out  by  the  roots,  the 
remaining  useless  and  scattered  suckers,  leaving  an  ample  supply  of 
the  best  shoots  for  pruning. 

In  .the  middle  and  eastern  states,  I  would  not  recommend  the 
pruning  of  raspberries  before  spring  ;  for  by  deferring  that  work 
to  the  latter  end  of  February,  or  beginning  of  March,  there  will  be 
a  greater  chance  of  the  shoots  not  being  injured  by  frost ;  and 
moreover,  you  can  then  make  choice  of  such  as  received  the  least 
injury.  But  in  the  southern  states  they  may  be  pruned  now  with 
safety  ;  for  the  method  see  page  131. 

It  is  necessary  to  observe  that  the  shoots  which  had  borne  fruit  * 
last  summer,  must  be  cut  down  to  the  ground  either  now  or  in  the 
spring,  as  they  will  never  bear  again  ;  and  that  it  is  from  the  shoots 
of  the  present  season,  immediately  rising   from   the    roots,  that 
you  are  to  expect  fruit  in  the  ensuing  year. 

The  Antwerp  raspberries  being  somewhat  more  tender  and  sub- 
ject to  be  injured  by  frost  than  the  common  kinds,  it  will  be  of  con- 
siderable advantage  to  protect  them  therefrom,  in  the  manner  di- 
rected next  month. 

Propagating  Fruit-trees  by  Layers  and  Suckers. 

The  young  shoots  of  mulberries,  figs,  filberts,  codlins,  vines,  &c. 
may  now  be  laid  in  the  earth,  as  directed  in  page  279,  and  they  will 
be  all  well  rooted  by  this  time  twelve  months. 

Suckers  may  be  taken  off  and  planted  from  codlins,  berberries, 
filberts,  8cc.  digging  them  up  with  good  roots  to  each,  and  planting 
the  largest,  at  once,  where  they  are  to  remain,  and  the  rest  into 
nursery-rows. 


OCT.]  THE  ORCHARD.  519 

Dressing  the  Strawberry  Beds^  and  making  new  Plantations. 

The  old  beds  of  strawberries  should  some  time  in  this  month, 
have  their  winter  dressing  ;  in  doing  of  which,  they  should  be 
cleaned  from  weeds,  and  the  vines  or  runners  taken  off  close  to  the 
plants ;  then  if  there  be  room  between  the  plants,  by  having  been 
kept  to  distinct  heads,  or  single  bunches,  which  is  certainly  the  most 
preferable  method,  loosen  the  earth  to  a  moderate  depth  with  a 
small  s/ade,  or  hoe,  observing  not  to  disturb  the  roots.  And  if  the 
plants  are  in  beds  with  alleys  between,  line  out  the  alleys  and  let 
them  be  dug  a  moderate  depth,  breaking  the  earth  very  fine  and 
spreading  a  sufficiency  of  it  over  the  beds,  between  and  round  the 
roots  of  the  plants,  being  careful  not  to  bury  their  tops.  A  slight 
top  dressing  of  well  rotted  dung,  may  sometimes  be  necessary. 
This  dressing  will  prove  very  beneficial,  and  promote  strength  and 
a  plentiful  crop  the  ensuing  season. 

When  it  was  omitted  last  month,  new  plantations  of  strawberries 
may  now  be  made,  but  the  earlier  in  the  month  the  better,  that 
the  plants  may  have  time  to  establish  new  roots  before  winter. 
For  full  instructions  on  that  head,  see  page  476. 

Preserving-  Stones  and  Kernels  of  Fruits. 

Preserve  in  damp  earth  or  sand,  the  stones  of  the  various  kinds 
of  fruit  you  intend  to  sow  for  stocks,  Sec.  and  let  apple,  pear,  and 
quince  kernels,  be  preserved  in  dry  sand,  till  you  wish  to  sow  them. 
Observe  not  to  place  them  in  the  way  of  mice,  rats,  or  squirrels, 
which  would  immediately  destroy  them  ;  and  when  sown,  every 
precaution  must  be  taken  to  preserve  them  from  these  animals. 


THE  ORCHARD. 


WINTER  pears  and  apples  should,  generally,  be  gathered 
this  month  ;  some  will  be  fit  for  pulling  in  the  early  part,  others 
not  before  the  middle  or  latter  end  thereof. 

To  know  when  the  fruits  have  had  their  full  growth,  you  should 
try  several  of  them  in  different  parts  of  the  trees,  by  turning  them 
gently  one  way  or  the  other  ;  if  they  quit  the  tree  easily,  it  is  a 
sign  of  maturity  and  time  to  gather  them. 

But  none  of  the  more  delicate  eating  pears,  should  be  suffered 
to  remain  on  the  trees  till  overtaken  by  frost,  for  if  they  are  once 
touched  with  it,  it  will  occasion  many  of  them  to  rot  in  a  very 
short  time.  Indeed  it  would  be  needless,  even  wrong,  to  suffer 


520  THE  ORCHARD.  [OCT. 

cither  apples  or  pears  to  remain  on  the  trees,  after  the  least  appear- 
ance of  ice  upon  the  water;  as  they  would  be  subject  to  much  inju- 
ry, and  receive  no  possible  kind  of  benefit  afterwards. 

Observe  in  gathering  the  principal  keeping  fruits,  both  pears  and 
apples,  to  do  it  when  the  trees  and  fruit  are  perfectly  dry,  other- 
wise they  will  not  keep  so  w>.H ;  and  that  the  sorts  designed  for  long 
keeping,  be  all  carefully  hand  pulled,  one  by  one,  and  laid  gently 
into  a  basket,  so  as  not  to  bruise  one  another. 

According  as  the  fruits  are  gathered,  carry  them  into  the  fruitery, 
or  into  some  convenient  dry,  clean,  apartment,  and  lay  them  care- 
fully in  heaps,  each  sort  separate,  for  about  ten  days,  or  two  weeks, 
in  order  that  the  watery  juices  may  transpire ;  which  will  make 
them  keep  longer,  and  render  them  much  better  for  eating,  than  if 
put  up  finally  as  soon  as  pulled. 

When  they  have  lain  in  heaps  that  time,  wipe  each  fruit,  one 
after  another,  with  a  clean,  dry  cloth,  and  if  you  have  a  very  warm 
dry  cellar,  where  frost  is  by  no  means  likely  to  enter,  nor  the  place 
subject  to  much  dampness ;  lay  them  singly,  upon  shelves,  coated 
with  dry  straw,  and  cover  them  with  a  layer  of  the  same. 

Or,  you  may  wrap  some  of  the  choice  sorts,  separately,  in 
white  paper,  and  pack  them  up  .in  barrels,  or  in  baskets,  lined  with 
the  like  material.  Or,  after  being  wiped  dry,  lay  layer  about  of 
fruit  and  perfectly  dry  sand,  in  barrels,  and  head  them  up  as  tight 
as  possible.  In  default  of  sand,  you  may  use  barley  chaff,  bran,  or 
dry  saw  dust. 

Another  method,  and  a  very  good  one,  is  to  be  provided  with  a 
number  of  large  earthen  jars,  and  a  quantity  of  moss,  in  a  perfectly 
dry  state ;  and  when  the  fruits  are  wiped  dry  as  before  directed, 
your  jars  being  also  dry,  lay  therein  layer  about  of  fruit  and  moss, 
till  the  jars  are  near  full,  then  cover  with  a  layer  of  moss. 

Suffer  them  to  remain  in  this  state  for  eight  or  ten  days,  then 
examine  a  stratum  or  two  at  the  top  to  see  if  the  moss  and  fruits 
are  perfectly  dry;  and  if  you  find  them  in  a  good  condition,  stop 
the  jars  up  with  good  cork  plugs,  and  cover  them  with  some 
melted  rosin  to  keep  out  air.  The  pears  and  apples  to  be  used 
this  way  should  be  of  the  latest  and  best  keeping  kinds,  and  such 
as  are  not,  generally,  fit  for  use  till  February,  March,  or  April. 

After  the  jars  are  sealed  as  above,  place  them  in  a  warm  dry 
cellar  or  room  on  a  bed  of  perfectly  dry  sand,  at  least  one  foot 
thick  ;  and  about  the  middle  of  November,  or  sooner  if  there  is  any 
danger  to  be  apprehended  from  frost,  fill  up  between  the  jars  with 
very  dry  sand,  until  it  is  a  foot  thick  round  and  over  them.  Thus 
you  may  preserve  pears  in  the  greatest  perfection,  for  eight,  or 
nine  months,  and  apples  twelve. 

Be  particularly  careful  to  examine  every  fruit  as  you  wipe  it, 
lest  it  is  bruised,  which  would  cause  it  soon  to  rot  and  communicate 
the  infection,  so  that  in  a  little  time  much  injury  might  be  sus- 
tained, in  consequence  of  a  trifling  neglect  in  the  first  instance  : 
but  above  all  things,  place  your  fruit  whatever  way  they  are  put  up, 
completely  out  of  the  reach  of  frost. 


ect.]  THE  VINEYARD.  53} 

The  common  kinds  for  more  immediate  use,  after  being  sweated 
and  wiped  as  before  directed,  may  be  packed  in  hampers  or  barrels 
layer  about  of  fruit  and  straw,  and  placed  where  they  will  neither  be 
exposed  to  damps  or  frost. 

Planting  and  Pruning  Fruit-Trees . 

What  I  have  said  under  the  article  Fruit-Garden,  for  this  month, 
is  perfectly  applicable,  in  as  much  at  it  has  relation  to  the  planting 
and  pruning  of  Orchards  at  this  season.  But  for  general  instructions, 
on  these  heads,  I  refer  you;to  the  article  Orchard,  in  January,  page 
38,  February  page  133,  and  March  page  216,  &c.  After  a  care- 
ful perusal  of  what  is  there  said,  you  will  be  perfectly  able  to  judge, 
(taking  into  consideration  the  nature  of  your  soil  and  local  situa- 
tion of  the  place)  whether  it  is  more  prudent  for  you  to  plant  and 
prune  in  the  autumn,  or  to  defer  that  business  till  the  opening  of 
spring. 

If  any  of  your  fruit  trees  are  cracked  and  rough  in  the  bark, 
when  the  fruit  is  pulled,  scrape  off  the  loose  parts,  and,  with  a 
large  painting  brush,  apply  a  mixture  of  cow-dung  and  urine, 
made  to  the  consistence  of  a  thick  paint,  covering  the  stem  and  any 
other  parts  so  affected  carefully  over  therewith.  This  will  soften 
the  old  rough  bark,  which  will  peel  off  with  it  during  the  following 
winter  and  spring,  leaving  after  it  the  smooth  fresh  bark  only* 
Your  trees  being  freed  from  that  incumberance  and  harbour  for 
worms,  insects,  &c.  will  thrive  much  more  luxuriantly  than  before.- 


THE  VINEYARD. 


HAVING  given  ample  instructions  last  month  for  the  mak- 
ing of  wines,  curing  of  raisins,  and  preserving  the  fruit  fresh  for  a 
length  of  time,  &c.  it  is  unnecessary  to  touch  upon  those  subjects 
in  this  place;  therefore,  have  only  to  refer  you  to  the  article 
Vineyard  in  page  479,  &c.  for  Information  respecting  any  thing  yet 
remaining  to  be  done,  of  what  was  there  recommended. 

In  the  southern  states,  Vineyards  may  now  be  planted,  and  vines 
propagated  by  cuttings,  Sec.  and  indeed  where  the  winters  are  mild 
and  but  litile  or  no  frost,  this  is  the  most  suitable  season  for  sa 
doing,  particularly  towards  the  latter  end  of  the  month.  But  in 
the  middle  states,  the  month  of  March,  and  in  the  eastern  states,  the 
early  part  of  April,  will  be  the  most  preferable,  periods,  in  which  to 
perform  this  business. 

3x 


522  THE  VINEYARD.  [OCT.- 

The  subject  of  planting  and  propagating  the  vine,  being  treated 
of  at  full  length  in  March,  beginning  at  page  226,  I  refer  you  there- 
to for  the  necessary  information. 

In  the  middle  states,  rooted  vines  may  now  be  transplanted,  if 
necessity  requires  it,  but  in  no  other  case  would  I  recommend  it ; 
and  these  should  be  protected  by  laying  litter  round  their  roots, 
or  some  other  suitable  defence  from  the  severity  of  the  frosts. 
Layers,  however,  may  now  be  made  with  good  prospects  of  suc- 
cess ;  and  if  you  find  it  more  convenient  to  procure  cuttings  at  this 
season  than  in  spring,  you  may  plant  them ;  but  observe  that  it 
\vill  be  necessary  to  cover  them  lightly  with  straw,  fern,  kaves  of 
trees,  or  some  other  light  covering  during  winter,  or  many  of 
them  will  miscarry.  Though  these  plants  are  extremely  hardy 
when  once  established,  they  are  rather  tender  in  their  infancy,  and 
every  advantage  of  season  ought  to  be  afforded  them,  especially  in 
those  parts  of  the  Union  where  the  winters  are  severe. 

As  to  the  practice  of  pruning  grape-vines  in  autumn,  it  is  not 
advi'sable,  except  where  the  winters  are  very  mild.  In  the 
southern  states  this  may  be  done,  with  great  propriety,  as  soon  in 
this  or  the  ensuing  month  as  the  foliage  shall  have  been  shed,  but 
by  no  means  before,  as  while  the  leaves  remain  on,  the  vines  will  not 
have  done  growing,  and  consequently  the  wood  will  not  be  sufficiently 
ripe  and  hard. 

For  further  observations,  together  with  the  methods  of  pruning, 
see  page  139,  Sec.  See  also,  the  Vineyard  for  next  month. 

Planting   Hallows  for  tying  ufi  the  Grafle-vinesy  &c. 

In  the  latter  end  of  this,  or  the  early  part  of  next  month,  you 
should  make  plantations  of  willows,  for  the  purpose  of  tying  up 
the  vines  with  the  small  flexible  twigs  thereof. 

Osiers  or  willows  are  also  very  useful  in  a  garden,  for  tying 
the  branches  of  espalier  trees  to  trellises,  binding  up  lettuces* 
cabbages,  endive,  Sec.  far  blanching,  tying  bundles  of  trees  or  shrubs, 
making  garden  baskets,  Sec.  so  that  a  small  plantation,  or  hedge- 
row of  willows  would  be  very  useful  in  every  garden  department. 

The  kinds  most  suitable  for  this  purpose  are  the  Salix  ~viminaLis^ 
or  true  Osier  'r  6\  j&ssc,  or  basket  Osier ;  and  S.  -vitillina^  or  Golden 
Willow. 

Willows  of  those  kinds  particularly,  delight  in-  low  moist  situa- 
tions, (though  they  grow  to  good  perfection  in  a  strong  loam) 
consequently,  soil  that  is  generally  useless  or  ©f  but  little  value, 
may  be  profitably  occupied  by  them.  Make  choice  of  such  ground 
and  plough  it  deep,  if  possible,  for  the  reception  of  the  cuttings  ; 
if  too  wet  for  the  plough,  form  it,  with  a  spade  and  shovel,  into 
four  feet  wide  ridges  with  deep  trenches  between,  casting  up  the 
earth  out  of  the  trenches  to  form  the  ridges  high  and  rounding  ; 
in  each  ridge  plant  two  rows  of  cuttings,  each  row  a  foot  from  the 
edge,  and  the  sets  two  feet  and  a  half  distant  from  one  another  in 
the  row. 


CCT,]  THE  NURSERY.  523 

The  cuttings  or  sets,  should  be  about  two  feet  long,  made  from 
strong  shoots  of  two  or  three  years  growth,  and  about  two  thirds  of 
each  set,  planted  or  drove  into  the  earth,  leaving  the  rest  out  to 
form  the  stool ;  each  of  these  will  throw  out  several  shoots,  and  if 
kept  free  from  weeds,  for  the  ensuing  season,  they  will  provide  for 
themselves  afterwards. 

The  year  old  shoots,  being  what  are  generally  used  for  the  va- 
rious purposes  noticed,  the  whole  produce  must  be  cut  down 
annually,  either  in  autumn  or  spring,  to  promote  such  growths. 
However,  a  sufficiency  may  be  suffered  to  grow  for  two  or  three 
years,  when  sets  are  wanted  for  an  additional  plantation. 

If  the  ground  can  be  ploughed,  it  will  be  attended  with  less  trou- 
ble, and  the  rows  may  be  planted  three  feet  asunder:  the  distance 
of  the  sets  from  one  another,  in  each  row,  should  be  about  two  feet 
and  a  half. 

I  would  advise  to  plant  the  cuttings  with  a  dibble,  in  preference 
to  forcing  them  in,  as  by  the  latter  method  the  bark  would  be 
injured. 

This  work  may  be  done  with  equal  propriety,  and  sometimes 
with  more  success  in  the  early  part  of  spring.  Cuttings  may  also  be 
planted,  at  either  season,  in  the  face  of  moist  ditches,  where  they 
succeed  extremely  well. 


THE  NURSERY. 


Trenching  and  Dressing  the  Ground. 

IN  the  beginning  of  this  month,  continue  to  trench  and  prepare 
the  several  quarters  in  which  you  intend  to  plant  stocks,  to  graft 
and  bud  the  several  sorts  of  fruit  upon ;  and  also  for  the  various 
other  planting  and  sowing  that  may  be  necessary. 

Carry  dung  into  such  parts  of  the  Nursery  as-  it  is  wanted,  and 
spread  it  upon  the  surface  of  the  ground  round  the  stems  of  young 
trees ;  this  will  contribute  to  the  preservation  of  their  roots  from 
frost,  the  rains  will  wash  in  the  salts  to  the  roots  of  the  trees,  and  in 
spring,  you  may  dig  in  the  dung  between  the  respective  rows. 

Propagating  Trees  and  Shrubs  by  Layers. 

Any  time  this  month  you  may  lay  the  various  kinds  of  trees  and 
shrubs  that  you  wish  to  propagate  in  that  way ;  for  the  methods 
of  doing  which,  together  with  several  useful  observations,  see  page, 
2r9  &c. 


524  THE  NURSERY.  [OCT. 

Towards  the  latter  end  of  the  month  take  off  such  layers  of  the 
preceding  year  as  are  well  rooted,  trim  their  stems,  and  plant 
them  in  nursery-rows,  or  elsewhere  as  may  be  necessary. 

This  is  the  best  season  to  lay  elms,  limes,  maples,  and  most 
kinds  of  hardy  forest-trees,  and  flowering-shrubs  ;  for  the  moisture 
of  the  ground  during  winter,  will  prepare  them  for  pushing  out 
roots  early  in  the  spring. 

Propagating  Trees  and  Shrubs  by  Cuttings. 

This  is  a  proper  time  to  plant  cuttings  of  all  hardy  trees  and 
shrubs,  that  will  grow  by  that  method,  especially  in  the  southern 
states  ;  but  it  will  be  necessary  to  plant  them  where  water  does  not 
lodge  iu  winter.  Poplars,  willows,  plane-trees,  honeysuckles,  &c. 
will  grow  freely  in  this  way ;  but  for  more  particulars,  see  page  282. 

Cuttings  of  all  sorts  planted  a  year  ago,  or  last  spring,  that  are 
well  rooted  and  have  shot  freely  at  top,  may  towards  the  latter  end 
of  this  month  be  transplanted,  if  necessary,  into  open  nursery-rows, 
to  advance  in  growth  and  to  have  occasional  training  for  the  purpo- 
ses intended. 

Sowing  Haw  and  Holly  JBerries,  &c. 

In  the  southern  states  you  may  any  time  in  this,  or  the  three 
ensuing  months,  if  the  ground  is  open,  sow  haw,  holly,  yew,  and 
rnezerion  berries,'ash,  hornbeam,  and  any  other  kind  of  seeds  that 
require  a  years  previous  preparation  ;  but  in  the  middle  states,  I 
would  recommend  to  defer  the  sowing  of  these  till  the  latter  end 
of  February,  or  very  early  in  March,  and  in  the  eastern  states, 
as  soon  in  the  latter  month  as  possible.  Indeed  it  would  not  be 
wrong  to  defer  the  sowing  of  them,  even  in  the  southern  states, 
till  January  or  February,  according  to  the  respective  climates, 
always  endeavouring  to  sow  them  before  they  begin  to  vegetate. 

Observe  that  each  kind  has  undergone  a  full  years  peparation, 
previous  to  sowing,  as  directed  in  the  Nursery  for  February,  and 
March)  where  you  will  6nd  ample  instructions,  for  the  cultivation 
of  these  and  many  other  kinds  of  trees  and  shrubs,  and  which  I 
would  particularly  recommend  to  your  perusal  at  this  time. 

Sowing  Oak  Acorns^  Chesnuts^   Walnuts^  Hickery^nuts,  \3c. 

The  best  season  in  the  year  for  sowing  the  acorns  of  every  kind 
of  oak,  is  immediately  after  they  fall  from  the  trees  ;  for  when  kept 
up  much  longer,  especially  in  a  dry  state,  they  lose  their  vegetative 
power. 

The  only  evils  they  have  to  encounter  by  sowing  them  at  this 
season  are,  the  depredations  of  mice,  rats,  and  squirrels,  Sec.  if  these 
animals  can  be  caught,  poisoned,  or  kept  off  by  any  means  that 
may  be  devised,  the  seeds  should  be  sown  immediately ;  but  if  not, 
it  will  be  better  to  preserve  them  till  the  early  spring  months,  in 
sand  or  earth,  or  in  moss,  and  although  they  will  soon  sprout,  their 
progress  in  vegetation  before  the  opening  of  spring,  will  not  be  such 


OCT.]  THE  NURSERY.  525 

as  to  do  them  any  material  injury,  provided  they  are  placed  imme- 
diately in  the  coldest  place  possible  till  winter,  and  further,  that  you 
do  not  break  the  small  radicles  when  planting  them  in  spring. 

The  acorns  if  sown  or  planted  at  this  time,  should  be  laid  within 
one  inch  of  one  another  in  dulls  about  two  feet  apart,  and  covered 
about  an  inch  deep :  here  they  may  remain  till  they  shall  have  had 
two  years  growth,  when  they  must  be  taken  up  and  planted  into 
nursery  rows  at  proper  distances,  there  to  acquire  a  sufficient  growth 
and  strength  for  a  final  transplanting,  which  will  generally  be  the 
case  in  about  two  or  three  years. 

Chesnuts  of  every  kindr  walnuts,  and  hickery  nuts,  may  be 
planted  now,  or  immediately  after  being  ripe ;  they  have  the  same 
enemies  to  encounter  as  the  acorns ;  but  all  these  kinds  will 
keep  well  till  spring  in  dry  sand,  or  even  in  bags  or  boxes,  and  if 
planted  early  in  that  season  will  vegetate  freely. 

But  if  you  find  it  more  convenient  to  plant  the  nuts  in  autumn, 
let  that  be  done,  if  possible,  when  they  are  perfectly  ripe,  and 
in  their  outward  covers  or  husks,the  extreme  bitterness  of  which, 
will  be  a  goodj>reservative  against  the  attacks  of  vermin  of  every 
kind. 

When  you  desire  to  cultivate  the  Juglans  rcgia,  or  European 
walnut,  for  its  fruit,  and  likewise  any  of  the  other  species,  make 
choice  of  the  best  varieties  of  nuts,  such  as  are  large,  thin  shelled, 
and  have  the  finest  flavoured  kernels  ;  for  although  the  best  sorts 
will  vary  or  degenerate,  when  raised  from  seeds,  yet  by  planting  the 
most  valuable  varieties,  there  will  be  the  better  chance  of  having 
good  kinds  continued. 

For  the  method  of  planting,  and  the  subsequent  treatment  of 
chesnuts,  walnuts,  Sec.  seepage  263. 

'Note.  When  oaks,  chesnuts,  or  walnuts,  &c.  are  planted  exclu- 
sively on  account  of  their  timber,  it  will  be  the  better  way,  when  it 
can  conevniently  be  done,  to  sow  or  plant  the  acorns  and  nuts  where 
they  are  intended  to  remain  for  full  and  mature  growth ;  for  trees  of 
either  of  these  kinds,  seldom  attain  to  as  great  magnitude  after 
having  been  transplanted,  as  if  suffered  to  remain  undisturbed  where 
the  seeds  were  sown. 

Transplanting  Stocks  to  Bud  and  Graft  ufion. 

About  the  latter  end  of  this  month,  you  may  plant  out  into  nur- 
sery-rows, all  the  hardy  kinds  of  seedling  stocks,  to  bud  and  graft 
the  different  varieties  of  fruits  upon. 

Let  these  be  planted  out  in  rows  three  feet  asunder,  and  one  foot 
or  more  distant  from  one  another  in  the  rows. 

Plant  also  for  the  purpose  of  stocks,  suckers  from  the  roots  of 
plums,  codlins,  pears,  quinces,  &c.  but  seedlings  are  much  more 
preferable  if  you  are  sufficiently  supplied  therewith. 

Transplant  likewise  from  nursery-beds,  and  layer-stools,  all  the 
well  rooted  cuttings  and  layers  that  were  planted  or  layed  a  year 
ago,  or  in  the  last  spring,  for  the  purpose  of  raising  stocks  for 
fruit-trees  ;  particularly  quinces,  ana1  codlins,  to  bud  and  graft  dwarf 


526  THE  NURSERY.  [OCT. 

pears  and  apples  upon,  in  order  to  form  dwarf  trees  for  walls  and 
espaliers,  planting  them  in  nursery  rows  as  above. 

Planting  hardy  deciduous  Trees,  and  Shrubs 

All  manner  of  hardy  deciduous  trees  and  shrubs,  may  be  planted 
now  into  nursery-rows,  or  finally  where  they  are  to  remain,  imme- 
diately after  they  have  shed  their  leaves,  or  as  soon  as  the  general 
foliage  is  turned  yellow  and  on  the  decline ;  but  observe  that  plant- 
ing at  this  season,  should  always  be  done  in  ground  that  lies  dryin 
winter.  When  that  is  the  case,  the  trees,  shrubs,  &c.  will  establish 
new  roots  before  they  are  overtaken  by  the  heats  of  the  ensuing 
summer,  and  will  require  but  very  little  trouble  in  watering. 

Pruning. 

In  the  latter  part  of  this  month,  you  may  begin  to  prune  and 
reduce  into  proper  form,  most  kinds  of  hardy  forest  and  fruit  trees, 
flowering  shrubs,  &c.  clearing  their  stems  from  lateral  shoots, 
eradicating  suckers,  and  dressing  their  heads  in  a  neat  and  becom- 
ing manner. 

Planting  hardy  E-vergreens. 

Between  the  middle  and  latter  end  of  this  month  you  may  plant 
pines,  firs,  cedars,  junipers,  and  every  other  kind  of  hardy  evergreen 
trees  and  shrubs.  However  I  would  not  advise  to  plant  small  seed- 
lings of  any  kind  at  this  season,  especially  in  the  middle  and  eastern 
states,  as  many  of  them  would  be  thrown  out  of  the  ground  by  the 
winter  frosts,  and  most  of  them  so  loosened  in  the  earth,  as  to  be 
subject  to  great  injury  from  the  parching  winds  in  spring.  Conse- 
quently, March  will  be  a  more  eligible  season  for  this  purpose. 

Sowing  Stones  of  Fruit-Trees. 

If  you  are  not  apprehensive  of  the  ravages  of  mice,  rats  squir- 
rels, Sec.  you  may  now  sow  the  stones  of  plums,  peaches,  necta- 
rines, apricots,  &c.  or  you  may,  if  you  think  it  more  prudent,  pre- 
serve them  in  sand,  &:c.  as  directed  on  former  occasions  till  Feb- 
ruary, or  March. 

These  stones  may  now  be  sown  pretty  thick,  in  drills  two  feet 
asunder,  and  covered  from  one  to  two  inches  deep,  according  to  the 
size  of  the  respective  kinds,  and  lightness  of  the  soil ;  and  at  this 
time  twelve  months,  such  of  them  as  shall  have  attained  to  a  good 
growth  may  be  transplanted  into  nursery  rows. 

Sowing  Beech-mast,  Maples,  &c. 

Beech-mast,  maple,  and  several  other  kinds,  may  now  be  sown 
as  directed  jn  March,  or  they  may  be  preserved  in  dry  sand  till  that 
season. 


OCT.]  FLOWER-GARDEN.  537 

J\ofe.  Many  sorts  of  seeds  may  now  be  sown,  but  as  I  treated  on 
the  subject  of  Nursery  at  considerable  length  in  March,  and  there 
noticed  what  kinds  might  be  sown  with  safety  in  autumn,  I  refer 
you  thereto  for  particular  information. 

Sowing  Afifile^  Crab,  and  Pear-Pumice. 

The  pumice  of  apples,  crabs,  and  pears,  after  having  been  pressed 
for  cyder,  or  perry,  may  be  sown,  kernels  and  all,  in  four  feet  wide 
beds,  laid  on  very  thick,  and  covered  about  an  inch  deep  with  good 
light  earth.  In  spring  the  plants  will  rise  freely  and  produce  you 
a  good  supply,  either  for  stocks,  or  for  making  live  hedges.  See 
page  256. 


THE  PLEASURE,  OR  FLOWER-GARDEN. 


Auriculas,  Pohjanthuses,  and  Primroses. 

THE  auriculas  in  pots,  must  now  be  kept  very  clean,  all 
decayed  leaves  picked  off  occasionally,  and  moderate  waterings 
administered  as  often  as  necessary,  that  the  plants  may  attain  due 
strength  before  winter. 

The  choice  polyanthuses,  and  double  primroses,  are  to  be  treated 
in  every  respect  as  the  auriculas  ;  the  common  kinds,  may  now 
be  planted  in  beds  and  borders  of  good  ground,  where  they  will 
flower  early  in  spring  in  tolerable  perfection,  especially  if  they  have 
a  slight  covering  of  straw  or  light  dry  litter  laid  over  them  during 
severe  frosts. 

The  seedling  plants  of  each  of  the  above  kinds  must  be  kept 
free  from  weeds,  and  filth  of  every  sort;  and  receive  regular  but  gen- 
tle waterings,  to  promote  their  growth  and  strength  as  much  as 
possible  before  winter. 

For  the  methods  of  preserving  the  choice  kinds  of  auriculas, 
polyanthuses,  and  primroses,  during  winter^  see  the  flower-Gar- 
den in  JVoruember. 

Carnations. 

The  carnation  layers  that  were  taken  off  in  August,  or  Septem- 
ber, and  all  other  choice  carnations  in  pots,  should  now  be  kept 
clean,  and  duly  watered,  and  towards  the  latter  end  of  the  month 
be  placed  in  a  warm  situation,  there  to  remain  until  disposed  of 
as  directed  in  November. 

The  seedlings  and  common  kinds,  may  be  transplanted  into 
beds  and  borders  where  wanted* 


528  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [OCT. 


Pinks. 

Your  choice  double  pinks  in  pots,  will  require  the  same  treat- 
ment as  the  carnations;  but  as  pinks  are  extremely  hardy,  they  may 
be  cultivated  in  great  perfection  in  the  open  ground. 

A  good  fresh  loamy  soil,  trenched  about  two  feet  deep,  well 
pulverized,  and  manured  with  a  stratum  of  cowdung,  two  years 
old,  mixed  with  an  equal  portion  of  sound  good  earth,  this  stratum 
to  be  about  six  inches  thick,  and  placed  about  four  inches  below 
the  surface,  is  all  the  preparation  or  compost  that  appears  necessary 
for  this  flower. 

The  bed  should  be  raised  three  or  four  inches  above  the  sur- 
rounding paths,  and  its  sides  may  be  supported  with  an  edging  of 
boards,  to  come  up  even  with,  or  one  inch  higher  than  its  surface ; 
this  last  for  the  sake  of  neatness,  more  than  any  particular  utility  it 
will  be  of  to  the  plants.. 

The  plants  intended  for  the  principal  bloom,  should  be  planted 
in  it,  in  the  first  week  of  this  month,  or  in  September,  as  they  do 
not  blow  quite  so  strong,  if  removed  late  in  the  season  :  they  should 
be  planted  at  the  distance  of  nine  inches  from  each  other,  and  the 
bed  should  be  laid  rather  convex,  or  rounding,  to  throw  off  excess 
of  rain ;  but  it  will  require  no  other  covering  than  a  very  slight  one, 
in  case  of  severe  frosts.  • 

The  bed  should  be  kept  free  from  weeds,  and  its  surface  stirred 
up  a  little,  if  it  inclines  to  bind. 

Carnations  will  prosper  very  well,  if  treated  in  the  above  man- 
ner. 

The  more  indifferent  kinds  of  pinks  may  be  planted  in  the  com- 
mon borders,  Sec. 

Planting  Superb   Tulip.  Roots. 

The  most  proper  season  for  planting  tulip  roots,  in  general,  is 
from  the  middle  to  the  latter  end  of  this  month,  and  indeed  I  should 
prefer  the  middle  to  any  other  period ;  for  about  that  time  you 
will  perceive  a  circle  round  the  lower  end  of  each  bulb,  disposed  to 
swell,  preparatory  to  the  emission  of  fibres,  and  also  a  disposition 
at  the  upper  end  of  some,  to  shew  foliage. 

By  keeping  the  roots  out  of  ground  after  this  predisposition  to 
vegetation,  they  would  be  greatly  weakened  thereby. 

The  situation  for  the  best  bed  of  superior  tulips,  should  be  in  an 
open,  airy  part  of  the  garden,  protected  at  the  same  time,  from 
North  and  West  winds  by  some  distant  shelter  ;  when  that  is  fixed 
upon,  the  ground  should  be  marked  out,  agreeable  to  its  intended 
dimensions,  and  the  soil  taken  out  twenty  inches  deep  ;  the  bottom 
is  then  to  be  filled  up  with  sound  fresh  earth,  ten  inches  thick,  upon 
which  is  to  be  placed  a  stratum  of  two  years  old  rotten  cow-dung  and 
earth  of  the  above  description,  one  half  of  each,  well  mixed  together 
and  laid  on  twelve  inches  thick  ;  upon  this  is  to  be  placed  another 
stratum  of  the  same  kind  of  earth  as  that  of  the  bottom ;  this 
latter,  is  only  to  be  two  inches  thick  at  the  sides,  and  three  in  the 


OCT.]  FLOWER-GARDEN.  529 

middle  of  the  bed,  which  will  give  it  a  small  degree  of  convexity. 

The  bed  should  be  thus  prepared  a  week  or  ten  days  previous  to 
planting  the  roots,  in  order  to  give  it  time  to  settle,  so  as  to  be 
about  two  inches  higher  than  the  circumjacent  paths  ;  but  if  heavy 
rains  intervene,  between  this  preparation  of  the  bed  and  planting, 
it  will  be  proper  to  keep  them  off,  in  order  to  preserve  the  earth 
from  becoming  too  compact,  by  a  redundancy  of  moisture,  for  the 
young  fibres  to  pass  freely  through  it. 

On  the  day  made  choice  of  for  planting,  rake  the  surface  of  the 
bed  smooth,  and  level  any  inequalities,  still  preserving  its  convexity, 
and  mark  the  exact  situation  for  every  root  upon  it.  The  proper 
distance  between  each  root,  is  seven  inches  every  way. 

A  bed  consisting  of  seven  rows,  makes  the  most  grand  appear- 
ance, when  it  is  of  sufficient  length,  with  a  path  round  it  about  two 
and  a  half  or  three  feet  wide  ;  but  where  the  number  of  roots  is 
small,  five  rows  may  suffice,  and  the  path,  in  that  case,  may  either 
extend  quite  round  the  bed,  or  only  on  one  side,  at  pleasure. 

If  the  bed  consists  of  seven  rows  it  should  consequently  be  fifty 
inches  Wide,  which  will  allow  a  space  of  four  inches  between  the 
outside  rows  and  the  sides  of  the  bed  ;  but  if  the  bed  contains  only 
five  rows,  it  will  only  require  to  be  three  feet  wide,  to  give  the  roots 
similar  distances. 

Having  sprinkled  a  li(f!e  clean  sand  where  the  roots  are  to  be 
set,  place  them  with  great  exactness,  and  add  some  very  sandy 
earth,  so  as  to  completely  envelope  each  root  in  a  little  cone  of  it ; 
then  cover  the  whole  very  carefully,  with  strong,  sound,  fresh 
loam,  about  four  inches  thick  or  a  little  better,  if  the  roots  are  strong, 
so  as  to  allow  the  covering  to  be  from  three  and  a  half  to  four 
inches  thick,  after  the  earth  shall  have  settled,  still  observing  to  pre- 
serve the  original  convexity  of  the  bed. 

The  tallest  growing  kinds  should  be  placed  in  the  middle,  and 
the  lower  towards  the  outsides.  No  tulip  root,  whatever  may  be 
its  size  or  strength,  should  be  planted  more  than  four  inches  deep 
from  the  upper  side  of  the  root ;  nor  should  any  blooming  root  be 
planted  less  than  three  inches  deep,  however  small  it  may  be.  The 
soil  made  use  of  for  covering  the  bulbs,  should  be  frequently  turned 
over,  and  thoroughly  exposed  to  the  sun  and  air,  sometime  before  it 
is  made  use  of,  that  it  may  be  rendered  perfectly  sweet,  and  free 
from  the  acrid  quality  that  most  soils  are  subject  to,  when  taken 
considerably  below  the  surface. 

If  the  bed  is  only  to  contain  five  rows,  with  a  path  in  the  front, 
and  not  behind,  then  it  will  be  proper  to  plant  the  smallest  and  low- 
est growing  kinds,  in  the  front,  next  the  path,  and  so  gradually  to 
increase  in  the  size  to  the  fifth,  or  last  row,  which  should  contain 
the  strongest  and  tallest  of  all.  Board  edgings  may  be  placed 
round  the  beds,  as  high  or  an  inch  higher,  than  the  surface  ;  this 
will  not  only  keep  the  earth  from  crumbling  down  from  the  outside 
rows,  but  give  a  degree  of  neatness  to  the  whole. 

When  the  operation  of  planting  is  concluded,  in  order  to  pre- 
serve the  bed  from  heavy  rains,  or  severe  frosts,  it  should  be  arched 
over  with  hcops  at  convenient  distances,  on  which  to  lay  mats  or 

3  Y 


530  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [OCT. 

canvas  on  such  emergencies  ;  but  it  will  not  be  necessary  to  defend 
it  from  moderate  rains  or  slight  frosts :  for  too  frequent  and  long 
covering  will  deprive  the  roots  of  the  due  action  and  influence  of 
the  air,  which  ought  to  be  avoided  as  much  as  possible  :  it  were 
even  better  not  to  cover  at  all,  than  over  do  it  to  the  certain  detre- 
inent  of  the  plants. 

Having  procured  roots  of  the  Jinest  sorts,  and  pursuing  the  pre- 
ceding instructions,  you  may  depend  on  having  those  incomparable 
flowers  in  the  greatest  perfection  possible. 

The  common  kinds  of  tulips,  being  of  little  value,  may  be  planted 
in  small  patches  of  three,  four,  or  five  roots  together,  around  the 
borders  of  the  garden,  or  pleasure  ground,  and  covered  the  same 
depth  as  the  others. 

Planting  the  best  Hyacinth  Roots. 

The  roots  of  hyacinths  may  be  planted,  with  good  expectation  of 
Success,  at  any  time  from  the  beginning  of  this  month,  to  the 
middle  of  November ;  but  I  would  prefer  the  middle  of  the 
present  month,  as  being  the  best  period  in  which  these  roots 
can  be  planted  ;  for  about  that  time  they  will  show  a  natural 
inclination  to  vegetate,  manifested  by  a  swelling  of  the  circle  from 
whence  the  fibres  proceed,  which  will  be  soon  followed  by  an  ac- 
tual appearance  of  their  points,  together  with  that  of  the  foliage  at 
the  other  extremity  of  the  root,  in  the  form  of  a  small  cone  of  a 
greenish  colour. 

The  bed  on  wbich  the  finest  sorts  are  to  be  planted  should  be 
situated  in  rather  a  dry  and  airy  part  of  the  garden,  a  southern  as- 
pect is  to  be  preferred,  sheltered  on  the  North  and  North-West  by 
•walls,  trees,  or  buildings,  at  a  distance  from  it  proportionate  to  their 
elevation  ;  that  is,  the  distance  of  the  bed  from  either,  should  be 
equal  to  the  height  of  the  wall,  fence,  or  hedge,  &c. 

When  the  situation  is  determined  on,  the  dimensions  of  the  bed 
should  be  marked  out,  and  the  soil  entirely  taken  away,  to  the 
depth  of  at  least  two  feet ;  the  earth  in  the  bottom  should  then  be 
dug  and  well  pulverized,  for  about  nine  inches  deep,  and  the  space 
above  filled  with  the  following  compost. 

One  third  sea,  or  river  sand.  One  third  fresh,  sound  earth.  One 
fourth  rotten  cow  dung  at  least  two  }rears  old  ;  and  one  twelfth  of 
earth  of  decayed  leaves. 

The  fresh  sound  earth  of  the  compost,  should  be  of  the  best 
quality  that  the  garden  or  adjacent  country  affords,  and'  entirely 
free  from  noxious  vermin  of  every  description.  These  ingredients 
should  be  well  mixed  and  incorporated  a  considerable  time  before 
•wanted,  and  about  ten  days  previous  to  planting,  the  bed  should  be 
filled  up  with  the  compost,  to  about  thiee  inches  above  the  level 
of  the  path  on  the  south  or  front  side,  and  seven  inches  on  the 
north  side,  so  as  to  form  a  regular  slope,  or  inclination  towards  the 
sun. 

On  planting  the  roots  the  surface  of  the  bed  should  be  covered 
\vith  fresh  sandy  earth  stbout  one  inch  thick  raked  perfectly  smooth 


OCT.]  FLOWER-GARDEN.  531 

and  even,  and  have  the  exact  situation  for  every  bulb  marked  on  it, 
as  follows.  t 


R  B  W  R  B  W  R  B  W  R  B 
W  R  B  W  R  B  W  *  R  B  W 

RBWRBWRBWRB 
W  R  B  W  R  B  W  R  B  W 

RBWRBWRBWRB 
W  R  B  W  R  B  W  R  B  W 


This  plan,  on  minute  investigation,  will  appear  superior  to  any 
other  that  can  be  devised  for  simplicity  and  an  elegant  and  advan- 
tageous display  of  the  colours  ;  each  bulb,  those  of  the  outside 
rows  excepted,  will  be  in  the  centre  of  a  hexagon,  and  the  whole 
at  equal  distances  from  Hch  other.  The  width  of  the  surface  of 
the  bed  is  to  be  four  feet,  the  six  rows  along  it  eight  inches  asunder, 
and  the  outside  rows  each,  four  inches  from  the  sides  of  the  bed.; 
consequently  the  space  between  the  centre  of  each  bulb  will  be 
about  nine  inches  and  a  quarter.  The  letters  R,  B,  W,  denote  the 
colour  of  the  flower  to  be  placed  there,  viz.  Red,  Blue,  or 
White.  Under  these  three  heads,  all  hyacinths  may  be  compre- 
hended, except  a  few  sorts  of  yellow,  which  may  be  classed  with 
the  whites. 

On  planting  the  hyacinths,  a  little  clean  sand  should  be  placed  un- 
derneath, and  likewise  upon  the  roots,  to  prevent  the  earth  adhering 
too  close  to  them ;  the  whole  are  then  to  be  covered  with  sound, 
fresh,  sandy  eerth,  from  three  to  four  inches  deep,  according  to  the 
size  of  the  bulbs  ;  when  this  is  completed,  the  bed  will  be  about  six 
or  seven  inches  above  the  level  of  the  walk  in  front,  pr  on  the  south 
side,  and  about  ten  or  eleven  inches  on  -the  north  side  ;  it 
should  be  supported  all  round  with  a  strong  frame  of  thick  boards, 
or  with  brickwork ;  this  frame  should  be  six  inches,  or  more,  higher 
all  round  than  the  surface,  and  of  course,  sloping  towards  the  front, 
to  support  such  covering  as  may  be  necessary  for  the  preservation 
of  the  roots  from  heavy  rains  and  severe  frosts.  For  their  further 
treatment,  see  the  ensuing  months. 

The  extraordinary  preparation  and  trouble  above  recommended, 
are  only  necessary  to  bring  the  finest  kinds  of  hyacinths  to  the  best 
possible  perfection  ;  but  the  nearer  you  can  make  it  convenient  to 
approach  to  said  method,  in  the  cultivation  of  all  the  other  varie- 
ties, the  greater  perfection  you  may  expect  to  have  them  in :  this 
however,  must  be  governed  by  circumstances,  and  you  need  not 
despair  of  having  very  fine  flowers  in  any  £"oorf,  rich,  kitchen-garden 


532  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [OCT. 

soil,  that  lies  dry  and  inclines  a  little  to  sand  ;  and  even  without  any 
kind  of  protection  during  winter. 

The  common  sorts  of  hyacinths,  of  every  species  and  variety, 
may  be  planted  in  open  beds,  or  in  small  clumps  round  the  borders, 
three,  four,  or  five  roots  in  a  place,  and  covered  from  three  to  four 
inches  deep,  according  to  the  strength  of  the  roots  and  lightness  of 
the  soil. 

Planting  Ranunculuses. 

Ranunculus  roots  may  either  be  planted  before  or  after  winter: 
if  the  soil  and  situation  is  remarkably  cold  and  wet,  it  will  be  better 
to  defer  planting  till  the  first  opening  of  spring,  but  then  the  earr 
liest  opportunity  of  planting  them  should  be  embraced. 

In  favourable  situations,  and  where  due  attention  can  be  paid  to 
the  protection  of  the  roots  from  severe  frosts,  the  early  part  of  this 
month,  is  the  most  preferable  period  and  should  be  embraced,  as 
the  roots  will  have  more  time  to  vegetate,  and  form  themselves,  and 
will  of  consequence,  bloom  stronger,  and  earlier,  than  those  planted 
in  spring. 

The  ranunculuses  are  originally  natives  of  a  warm  climate, 
•where  they  blow  in  the  winter,  or  more  rainy  season  of  the  year : 
they  are  of  course  partial  to  coolness  apd  moisture  exempt  from 
net  and  frost,  which  the  more  delicate  sorts  cannot  bear,  in  any  con- 
siderable degree  without  injury. 

A  fresh,  strong,  rich,  loamy  soil,  is  preferable  to  all  others  for 
ranunculuses. 

The  bed  should  be  dug  from  eighteen  inches  to  two  feet  deep, 
and  not  raised  more  than  four  inches  above  the  level  of  the  walks, 
to  preserve  a  moderate  degree  of  moisture  :  at  about  five  inches 
below  the  surface  should  be  placed  a  stratum  of  two  year  old  rotten 
cow  dung,  mixed  with  earth,  six  or  eight  inches  thick ;  but  the 
earth  above  this  stratum  where  the  roots  are  to  be  planted,  must 
be  free  from  dung,  which  would  prove  of  more  injury  than  benefit, 
if  too  near  them.  The  fibres  will  draw  sufficient  nourishment  from 
it  at  the  depth  above  mentioned  ;  but  if  the  dung  was  placed  deeper 
it  would  not  receive  so  much  advantage  from  the  action  of  the  air, 
which  is  an  object  of  some  importance. 

The  surface  of  the  bed  should  be  raked  perfectly  even  and  flat, 
and  the  roots  planted  in  rows  at  the  distance  of  about  five  or  six 
inches  from  one  another.  It  is  better  to  plant  in  shallow  trenches, 
made  nearly  two  inches  deep,  than  to  make  holes  for  the  reception 
of  the  roots:'  there  should  be  a  little  clean  sand  sprinkled  in  the 
trench,  and  the  roots  placed  with  their  claws  downwards,  each  dis- 
tant from  the  other  about  three  or  four  inches  according  to  its  size 
and  strength  :  when  the  roots  are  thus  laid  in,  fill  the  trenches  up 
level,  with  the  same  earth  that  was  taken  out,  so  as  to  cover  the 
roots  exactly  one  inch  and  a  half  deep,  which  is  the  only  true  depth 
to  produce  a  good  bloom :  it  is  pointed  out  by  nature  in  a  singular 
manner  ;  for  when  these  roots  have  been  planted  either  too  shal- 
low, or  too  deep,  in  either  case,  a  second  root  is  generally  formed 
at  a  proper  depth,  by  which  the  plant  is  weakened  to  such  a  degree. 


OCT.]  FLOWER-GARDEN.  533 

that  it  seldom  survives  a  repetition  of  it.  It  will  be  of  considerable 
service  to  have  the  bed  framed  round  with  boards,  or  brickwork, 
a  few  inches  higher  than  its  surface,  in  front,  and  rising  gradually 
to  the  back  part,  in  order  to  make  it  the  more  convenient  to  protect 
the  roots  from  severe  frosts,  as  directed  in  the  following  months. 

Planting  Anemones. 

Anemones  require  nearly  the  same  treatment  as  ranunculuses, 
are  hardier,  and  consequently,  may  be  planted  in  the  autumn  with 
more  safety ;  the  most  eligible  period  is  between  the  first  and 
fifteenth  of  this  month,  for  if  the  winter  sets  in  early  and  proves 
severe,  late  planted  roots  will  not  have  time  to  vegetate  before 
frosty  weather  takes  place ;  in  which  case,  there  will  be  great  danger 
of  their  perishing,  as  they  are  then  replete  with  moisture,  and  in  a 
state  of  inactivity,  which  renders  not  only  them  but  all  other  roots, 
more  susceptible  of  injury  from  frost,  and  more  subject  to  mouldi- 
ness,  than  after  vegetation  has  commenced.  To  avoid  which,  as 
much  as  possible,  a  suitable  covering  or  protection  must  be  put  on, 
and  taken  off  the  beds,  as  often  and  in  such  proportion,  as  the  exi- 
gency or  circumstances  of  the  case  may  require. 

The  beds  should  consist  of  the  same  kind  of  soil,  and  be  prepared 
in  the  same  manner  as  for  ranunculuses ;  the  roots  should  be  at 
nearly  similar  distances  from  each  other,  and  be  planted  in  the  same 
manner,  except  that  they  require  to  be  covered  rather  deeper ;  that 
is,  they  should  be  planted  two  inches  deep.  It  requires  some  care 
and  attention  to  distinguish  which  side  of  the  root  is  to  be  placed 
uppermost,  especially  if  the  small  thread-like  fibres  had  been 
entirely  cleaned  off,  when  the  roots  were  taken  up. 

The  roots  are  in  general  rather  flat,  and  their  eyes,  from  whence 
the  stems  and  flowers  proceed,  are  easily  distinguished  on  one 
side  of  the  root,  which  of  course  should  be  planted  uppermost.  For 
their  further  treatment,  see  the  ensuing  months. 

Planting  various  kinds  of  Bulbous-rooted  Floivers. 

A  good,  sound,  fresh  soil,  either  of  the  black  or  loamy  kind,  (with 
the  addition  of  a  little  coarse  sea  or  river  sand,  placed  round  the 
roots  on  planting)  and  manured  with  rotten  cow-dung,  two  years 
old  at  least,  if  the  soil  and  situation  be  dry  and  warm,  or  rotten  horse- 
dung  if  it  be  cold  and  moist,  is  all  the  compost  or  preparation  required 
for  the  greater  part  of  those  flowers  ;  observing  that  the  dung  should 
never  come  in  contact  with  the  bulbs,  or  be  placed  at  so  great 
a  depth  from  the  surface  of  the  soil  as  to  lose  the  advantage  of  the 
due  action  of  the  air  upon  it,  which  would  render  it  poisonous 
instead  of  nutricious  :  in  short  it  should  never  be  placed  more  than 
eight  or  ten  inches  deep  upon  any  occasion,  where  it  can  possibly  be 
avoided. 

The  Polyanthus-Narcissus  consists  of  many  varieties,  each 
sort  produces  several  flowers  on  one  stalk,  the  roots  maybe  planted 
any  time  this  month,  about  three,  or  four  inches  deep,  they  sue- 


534  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [OCT. 

ceed  best  in  rather  a  warm  dry  soil  and  situation  ;  but  if  the  soil 
happens  to  be  the  revet  se,  the  bed  should  be  raised  seven  or  eight 
inches  above  the  common  level,  and  in  either  case,  it  would  be 
well  to  cover  the  bed  with  straw  in  case  of  severe  frost,  for  the 
roots  of  these  are  more  tender  and  subject  to  be  injured  by  the 
seventy  of  the  winter,  than  either  hyacinths  or  tulips.  The  bed 
should  be  formed  rather  rounding  to  cast  off  the  wet,  for  which 
a  good  fall  or  descent  should  be  in  some  convenient  direction.  The 
roots  may  remain  two  or  three  years  in  the  ground  without  being 
disturbed  ;  but  then  it  will  be  necessary  to  take  them  up  to  sepa- 
rate their  offsets,  which  by  being  longer  connected  with  the  old 
roots,  would  cause  them  to  blow  small  and  weak. 

Double-Narcissus  (Daffodils)  consist  of  several  varieties  ;  they 
are  hardier  than  the  former,  the  Italian  excepted,  and  may  be 
treated  in  a  similar  manner,  but  are  in  less  danger  from  the  effects 
of  frost. 

Jonquils,  English,  Spanish,  and  Persian  Bulbous  Iris ;  the  three 
first,  consist  of  several  varieties,  they  may  be  planted  from  two  to 
three  inches  deep,  according  to  the  looseness  of  the  soil  and 
strength  of  the  bulbs,  and  treated  in  the  same  manner  as  the  Poly- 
anthus-Narcissus :  they  are  all  hardy. 

Crown  Imperials,  Lilies,  Psonias,  and  the  Ornithogalum  pyra- 
inidale,  or  star  of  Bethlehem,  should  be  planted  now,  if  not  done 
before,  and  covered  about  four  inches  deep  ;  these  do  not  require  to 
be  taken  up  oftener  than  once  in  two  or  three  years,  and  then  only 
to  separate  their  offsets. 

Martagon  s  (lilies  with  revolute  petals)  consist  of  many  species 
and  varieties,  and  may  be  treated  as  other  lilies  ;  they  however  make 
the  best  appearance  in  beds  by  themselves,  and  will  grow  stronger 
if  the  ground  is  well  manured  and  the  roots  planted  from  five  to 
six  inches  deep.  The  lilies  called  Martagons  are,  the  Liiium  dial* 
cedonicum,  or  scarlet  Martagon  Lily,  L.  Catesbxi,  or  Catesby'sLily, 
L.  fiomfionium,  or  Pomponian  Lily,  L.  sujierbum,  or  Superb  Lily, 
L.  Martagon)  or  purple  Martagon  Lily,  L.  canadense,  or  Canada 
Martagon  Lily,  and  L.  jafionlcum^  or  Japan  white  Lily,  with  their 
varieties  j  the  latter  obtained  by  sowing  the  seeds  of  the  different 
species. 

If  not  done  in  the  preceding  months,  you  should  no  longer  de- 
fer the  planting  of  spring  crocuses,  snowdrops,  hardy  Gladioluses, 
Persian  Fritillarias,  Erythroniums,  Pancratium  maratimum,  Or- 
chises, Limadorum  tuberosum,  Snakes-head  Iris,  musk,  feathered, 
pjrupe,  and  other  Hyacinths;  the  Scilla  maritirna,  or  officinal  squill, 
Scilla  peruviana,  or  Starry  Hyacinth,  together  with  ail  the  other 
kinds  of  hardy  bulbous,  or  tuberous-rooted  flowers,  which  you  intend 
planting  before  spring.  These  may  be  planted  separately  in  beds, 
or  along  the  borders  of  the  flower-garden  and  pleasure-grounds, 
and  covered  from  two  to  three  or  four  inches  deep,  over  the  crowns 
of  the  roots,  according  to  their  respective  size  and  strength,  and  the 
lightness  or  stiffness  of  the  soil. 

In  planting  any  of  the  above  or  other  sorts  in  borders,  observe 
that  the  lowest  growing  kinds  are  to  be  planted  next  the  walks,  and 


OCT.]  FLOWER-GARDEN.  535 

the  larger  farther  back,  in  proportion  to  their  respective  growths, 
that  the  whole  may  appear  to  advantage,  and  none  be  concealed 
from  the  view.  Likewise  observe  to  diversify  the  kinds  and  co- 
lours, so  as  to  display,  when  in  bloom,  the  greatest  possible  variety 
of  shades  and  contrasts. 

In  assemblage  with  other  flowers  in  the  borders,  these  should  be 
planted  in  small  clumps  of  six,  seven,  or  eight  inches  in  diameter, 
three,  four,  five,  or  more  roots  in  each,  according  to  size  and  growth, 
and  these  at  suitable  distances  from  one  another,  say  one,  two,  or  three 
yards.  Some  of  the  common  anemones  and  ranunculuses  may 
also  be  planted  with  those  roots  in  the  borders,  either  in  rows  tow- 
ards the  edges,  or  in  small  clumps  or  patches  as  above. 

As  much  elegance  of  taste  and  fancy  is  necessary,  and  may  be 
displayed  in  setting  off  a  border  of  intermixed  flowers  to  advantage, 
as  perhaps  in  any  other  part  of  gardening. 

Sowing  seeds  of  Bulbous  rooted  flowers,  &c. 

You  may  still  continue  to  sow  the  seeds  of  bulbous  and  tuberous 
rooted  flowers,  as  directed  in  page  491. 

Transplant  Perennial  and  Biennial  Flower  Roots. 

The  entire  of  this  month  is  a  very  proper  time  to  divide  and 
transplant  the  various  kinds  of  hardy  perennial  and  biennial  flower- 
roots,  as  noticed  in  page  493,  which  see. 

Observe  to  plant  the  different  sorts  in  a  diversified  order,  the 
low  growing  kinds  next  the  walks,  and  the  largest  more  remote 
therefrom,  so  that  the  whole  may  rise  in  a  regular  gradation,  as 
they  advance  in  growth. 

Collect  ornamental  plants  from  the  woods,  fields,  and  swamps* 
as  directed  in  page  46 1  ;  this  will  be  a  very  good  time  to  procure 
the  late  flowering  kinds,  many  of  which  are  extremely  beautiful. 

Double  Daisies,  &C: 

About  the  middle  of  this  month,  prepare  a  warm  border  in  a 
south  aspect,  on  which  to  plant  the  double  daisies  that  you  pre- 
served in  shaded  situations  during  summer ;  the  bed  should  be 
raised  four  or  five  inches  above  the  common  level,  and  if  surround- 
ed with  a  frame,  the  better ;  take  up  the  roots  with  balls  of  earth 
and  plant  them  on  this  bed  in  rows,  five  or  six  inches  plant  from 
plant,  every  way  ;  give  them  water  immediately,  and  if  shaded 
from  the  sun  for  a  week  or  two,  it  would  be  of  considerable  service. 

Primroses,  polyanthuses,  and  common  auriculas,  may  be  treated 
in  this  way.  For  their  further  management  see  the  ensuing 
jnonths. 

Stock-gillyflowers,  and  Wallflowers. 

Any  double  stocks,  and  wallflowers,  that  you  have  growing  in 
beds,  or  borders;  should  be  potted  in  the  beginnig  of  this  month, 


536  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [OCT. 

if  not  done  in  September,  and  placed  in  the  shade  for  about  three 
weeks,  then  removed  to  a  warm  aspect  there  to  remain  till  it  is 
found  necessary  to  house,  or  place  them  in  a  frame. 

Planting  Bulbous  roots  in  fiots  and  glasses  for  flowering  early. 

In  the  beginning  of  this  month,  you  should  plant  some  of  the 
earliest  kinds  of  tulips,  hyacinths,  polyanthus-narcissus,  Sec. 
in  pots  of  light,  rich,  sandy  earth,  one,  two,  or  three  roots  in  each, 
and  of  different  colours,  in  order  to  force  them  into  an  early- 
bloom  in  winter.  If  the  pots  are  large,  the  roots  may  be  covered 
one  inch  above  their  crowns,  but  if  small  the  bare  covering  of  the 
crowns  will  be  sufficient,  in  order  to  give  the  fibres  the  more  room 
to  extend  themselves. 

Ranunculuses,  anemones,  crocuses,  snowdrops,  dwarf  Persian1 
Irises,  and  any  other  early  blooming  kinds,  may  be  planted  in  pots 
for  the  same  purpose,  covering  them  generally  about  an  inch  deep 
over  their  crowns. 

When  the  roots  are  planted,  the  pots  are  to  be  sunk  to  their 
rims  in  a  good  stout  garden-frame,  on  a  bed  of  very  light,  sandy 
earth,  elevated  above  the  common  level  of  the  ground,  where  they 
are  to  be  kept  gently  moist  and  no  more  ;  but  they  must  be  care- 
fully protected  from  heavy  torrents  of  rain,  which  would  tend 
greatly  to  rot  or  weaken  the  bulbs.  The  glasses  are  to  be  kept 
off,  except  in  rainy  weather  till  the  approach  of  frost,  after  which 
the  bed  must  be  defended  therefrom,  as  directed  in  the  following 
months. 

In  this  month  you  should  put  the  bulbs  of  tulips,  hyacinths, 
jonquils,  narcissuses,  Sec.  in  bulb-glasses  filled  with  water,  to- 
flower  in  rooms  early  in  spring:  the  glasses  should  be  then  placed 
where  they  may  have  as  much  free  air  as  possible,  while  the  weather 
continues  mild  ;  if  they  are  placed  near  the  windows  of  a  Green- 
Kouse,  where  they  may  have  free  air  in  favourable  weather,  and 
be  protected  from  cold  and  frost,  they  will  produce  fine,  strong 
flowers,  and  at  a  very  acceptable  season. 

The  water  should  be  changed  as  often  as  it  turns  greenish,  and 
fhe  glasses  well  washed  inside.  Particular  care  must  be  taken  net- 
to  suffer  the  water  to  be  frozen  in  winter,  which  would  not  only 
injure  the  roots,  but,  burst  the  glasses. 

* 
Potting  RcscS)  &c.  for  Forcing. 

Pot  roses,  honeysuckles,  double  flowering  almonds,  peaches, 
cherries,  and  thorns,  and  any  other  desirable  shrubs,  whether  ever- 
green or  deciduous,  either  for  the  convenience  of  affording  them 
protection  in  winter,  decorating  any  compartments  in  spring  or 
summer,  or  for  placing  some  of  them  in  the  forcing  departments 
in  December,  or  January,  to  force  an  early  bloom.  This  must  be 
-clone  with  care,  not  injuring  ihe  roots,  and  taking  up  as  much  earth 
with  them  as  possible.  When  potted  place  them  in  the  shade  for  ten 
or  twelve  days  after,  or  until  you  find  it  necessary  to  house>  or  other- 
wise  protect  them. 


OCT.]  FLOWER-GARDEN.  537 


Prune  flowering  Shrubs. 

This  is  a  very  proper  season  to  prune  roses,  lilacs,  honeysuckles, 
and  indeed  all  kinds  of  hardy  trees  and  shrubs,  whether  deciduous 
or  evergreen.  Let  this  be  performed  with  a  sharp  knife,  and  not 
, with  garden  shears,  as  sometimes  practised.  But  to  avoid  repeti- 
tion I  refer  you  for  further  instructions  on  this  head  to  page  157. 

All  suckers  which  arise  from  the  roots  should  now  be  taken  clean 
away,  for  when  suffered  to  remain  they  starve  the  old  plants  and 
prevent  their  flowering ;  many  kinds  of  shrubs,  for  instance  the 
lilac,  will  send  forth  great  numbers  of  suckers  from  their  roots, 
which  if  not  annually  taken  off  will  spread  over  the  ground  to  the 
great  injury  of  your  plants.  These  suckers,  if  wanted,  may  be 
planted  in  nursery -rows,  for  a  year  or  two,  and  will  then  answer 
for  renewing  the  old  or  for  forming  new  plantations^ 


Forming  New  Ornamental  Plantations, 


This  being  a  very  proper  season  for  laying  out  and  planting  plea- 
sure grounds,  I  refer  you  for  general  information  on  these  subjects 
to  page  55,  Sec.  which  though  given  in  a  month  not  favourable  for 
such  work,  in  the  middle  or  eastern  states,  I  considered  it  a  period 
in  which  there  would  be  leisure  time  for  contemplating  the  designs, 
and  making  preparations  for  the  carrying  of  them  into  execution, 
on  the  opening  of  spring. 

All  kinds  of  hardy  deciduous  trees  and  shrubs  may  be  planted  as 
soon  in  this  month  as  they  shall  have  shed  their  leaves ;  the  ever- 
green kinds  may  be  planted  towards  the  latter  end  thereof,  always, 
but  particularly  for  the  latter,  making  choice  of  moist  or  cloudy 
weather,  if  such  should  occur  in  due  season^ 

In  this  place  I  think  it  proper  to  remark,  that  I  always  have  had 
better  success  in  the  planting  of  evergreens  in  general,  when  done 
in  the  spring  of  the  year,  immediately  before  their  vegetation  com- 
menced, than  at  any  other  season. 

The  early  part  of  next  month  will  be  an  excellent  time,  to  plant 
all  kinds  of  deciduous  forest-trees,  and  flowering  shrubs,  Sec.  that 
shall  not  have  shed  their  foliage  before  that  time. 

For  general  directions  respecting  the  best  methods  of  planting 
trees  and  shrubs  of  every  kind,  see  page  293. 


Propagate  Trees  and  Shrubs. 

Various  kinds  of  trees  and  shrubs,  growing  in  the  pleasure 
ground,  borders,  &c.  may  now  be  propagated  by  suckers,  layers, 
and  cuttings  ;  but  having  described  the  methods  of  doing  this  in  the 
Nursery  for  March,  a  repetition  is  unnecessary  in  this  place* 

3  z 


THE  GREEN-HOUSE. 


Planting  Box^  and  other  Edgings. 

edgings  may  be  planted  any  time  this  month  with  good  suc- 
cess, if  some  care  be  taken  to  give  them  shade  and  water  for  about 
a  month,  for  the  method,  see  page  295. 

Many  other  kinds  may  now  be  planted  for  edgings,  but  particu- 
larly those  mentioned  in  page  343,  which  see. 

Plant  Hedges. 

This  is  a  fine  season  to.  plant  all  sorts  of  live  hedges,  whether  for 
fences,  shade,  or  ornament;  especially  ground  hedges,  or  such  as 
are  to  be  established  on  the  plain  surface  of  the  earth;  but  having 
treated  on  this  subject  at  full  length,  in  the  Nursery  for  March, 
beginning  at  page  252,  to  which  I  refer  you,  it  is  unnecessary  to 
repeat  here  what  has  been  said  before. 

It  may  however,  be  proper  to  observe,  that  evergreen  hedges 
are,  generally,  more  successful  when  planted  in  spring,  than  at  this 
season;  not  with  standing)  in  cases  of  necessity,  I  would  not  hesitate 
to  plant  them  now. 

Clijifiing  Hedges  and  Edgings. 

If  any  hedges  or  box  edgings  want  trimming,  let  them  be  clipped 
early  in  this  month,  observing  the  directions  given  in  page  495. 

Be  very  particular  to  finish  the  clipping  of  evergreen  hedges,  as 
early  in  the  month  as  possible,  for  if  cut  too  late  the  cold  will  occa- 
sion the  cut  leaves,  and  others  suddenly  exposed  thereto,  to  change 
to  a  rusty  disagreeable  colour,  which  they  will  not  recover  be- 
fore the  ensuing  spring. 

Ordinary   Work. 

Mow  grass-walks  and  lawns  close  and  even,  and  roll  them,  in 
order  that  they  should  appear  neat  all  winter ;  clean  and  roll  your 
gravel  walks  once  a  week  ;  hoe,  weed,  cut,  rake,  and  carry  away 
clean  off  the  ground,  all  weeds,  decayed  flower-stems,  fallen  leaves, 
Sec.  prepare  ground  by  trenching,  laying  it  up  in  ridges,  &c.  for 
spring  planting,  which  will  be  of  considerable  advantage,  both  in 
meliorating  tfce  ground  and  expediting  your  business  at  that  sea- 
son. 


THE  GREEN-HOUSE. 

HAVING  in  the  preceding  month,  page  498,  intimated  the 
proper  time  for  taking  in  the  Green-House  plants,  in  the  eastern 
states;  I  shall  now  notice  the  period  for  doing  that  business  in  the 


THE  GREEN-HOUSE.  539 

middle  states.  In  the  southern  states,  the  plants  may  be  left  cut  a 
few  days  later  than  hereafter  mentioned,  say  from  four  to  ten,  ac- 
cording to  climate,  season,  and  local  situation. 

About  the  first  day  of  this  month,  if  not  done  before,  take  into 
t^e  Green-House,  all  the  more  hardy  species  of  Cactuses,  Aloes 
Mesembryarithemums,  Sedums,  Stupelias,  Agaves,  Cotyledons, 
Cycas  revoluta,  and  other  succulent  and  tender  plants;  place  them 
in  front  where  they  can  have  plenty  of  air  in  mild  weather,  and 
give  them  water  but  sparingly. 

Let  it  be  observed  for  the  benefit  and  ^Rcouragement  of  those 
who  have  no  Hot-Houses,  that  although  all  the  above  generas,  o? 
families,  are  commonly  considered  as  Hot-House  plants,  the  far 
greater  number  of  species  thereunto  belonging,  may  be  preserved 
in  excellent  perfection  in  a  good  Green-House,  and  also  many 
other  plants  hitherto  considered  as  too  tender  to  be  preserved 
therein  :  experience  is  the  true  criterion,  and  where  there  are  du* 
plicates  of  doubtful  plants,  an  ingenious  gardener,  will  make  an  ex- 
periment with  one  of  each.  Several  kinds  of  plants  commonly 
kept  in  Hot-Houses,  would  thrive  much  better  in  a  well  construct- 
ed Green -House. 

Between  the  sixth  and  tenth  of  this  month,  according  to  the  sea- 
son, situation,  and  shelter  of  the  place,  you  should  take  in  your 
orange,  lemon,  citron,  lime  and  shaddock  trees,  and  also  your 
Geraniums,  and  every  other  sort  of  plant  that  slight  frosts  could 
injure,  or  discolour  the  leaves  thereof.  Myrtles  and  the  more 
hardy  kinds  will  not  be  in  much  danger  before  the  middle  of  the 
month  ;  nor  will  the  hardiest  sorts,  such  as  Primus  lusitanica,  or 
Portugal  laurel,  Primus  Lauro-Cerasus,  or  Levant  laurel,  Vibur- 
num Tinus,  or  Laurustinus,  Arbutus  Unedo,  or  strawberry-tree, 
Lagerstrcemia  indica,  Daphne  odora,  Fuchsia  coccinea,  Cupressus. 
sempervirens,  Hydrangea  hortensis,  &c.  before  the  twentieth  or 
twenty-nflh  thereof:  indeed  in  warm  soils  and  situations,  most  of 
these  would  bear  the  winters  of  the  middle  states,  in  the  open 
ground,  if  sheltered  with  mats  or  straw,  &c. 

Before  they  are  taken  in,  pick  off  all  decayed  leaves,  prune  any 
decayed,  ill  formed,  disorderly,  or  irregular  shoots  or  branches, 
and  stir  the  earth  a  little  in  the  tops  of  the  tubs  or  pots.  Such  as 
appear  weakly,  should  have  some  of  the  old  earth  taken  out  and 
the  vacancy  filled  up  with  fresh  compost. 

In  placing  the  plants  in  the  Green-House,  be  particular  to  ar- 
range them  in  regular  order,  the  tallest  behind,  and  the  others  ac- 
cording to  their  height,  in  regular  gradation  down  to  the  lowest  in 
front;  being  careful  to  dispose  the  different  sorts  in  such  varied 
order,  as  that  the  foliage  may  effect  a  striking  contrast  and  variety, 
by  intermixing  the  broad  and  narrow  leaved,  the  simple  and  com- 
pound leaved,  the  light  and  dark  green,  the  silvery,  &c.  in  order 
that  the  whole  collection  may  exhibit  a  conspicuous  and  agreeable 
diversity. 

When  all  are  thus  arranged  give  their  heads  a  good  watering, 
which  will  wash  off  any  dust  they  have  contracted,  refresh  them 
considerably,  and  add  lustre  and  beauty  to  their  foliage  ;  then  waslj 


540  THE  GREEN-HOUSE.  [OCT. 

clean,  and  wipe  dry,  all  the  stage,  benches,  floor,  £^c.  after  which 
the  whole  will  assume  a  neat,  gay,  lively,  and  becoming  appear- 
ance. 

The  plants  now  should  have  as  much  free  air  as  possible,  during 
the  continuance  of  mild  weather,  for  if  kept  too  close  the  damps  oc- 
casioned by  a  copious  perspiration,  would  cause  many  of  their  leaves 
to  become  moufcty  and  drop  off,  s.nd  besides,  they  would  be  less 
hardy  on  the  approach  of  winter:  therefore,  on  every  warm  or  mild 
day  k'_»ep  the  windows  optn  ;  and  even  on  mild  dry  nights,  during 
the  remainder  of  this  month,  you  may  slide  down  the  upper  front 
lights,  so  as  to  admit  a  little  air  at  top.  But  observe  to  keep  the 
•windows  close  shut,  in  cofd  weather,  frosty  nights,  and  during  the 
continuance  of  cold  rains  or  fogs. 

It  will  still  be  necessary  to  water  the  plants  frequently,  but 
moderately,  especially  the  shrubby  kinds ;  the  succulent  sorts  will 
not  require  it  so  cflen. 

Pick  off  from  tim^  to  time,  all  decayed  leaves,  and  keep  every 
part  of  the  house  constantly  clean  and  free  from  filth  of  any  kind. 

The  deciduous  Green-house  plants,  such  as  the  Lagcrstrcsmia 
indica,  Punica  granata,  or  double  flowering*  pomegranate,  Crotqn 
selrfcrum,  or  tallow-tree,  &c.  may.  be  placed  on  a  platform  erected 
at  the  back  of  the  stage,  as  noticed  in  pa:^e  82,  or  they  may  be 
preserved  very  well  during  the  winter,  in  a  dry  warm  cellar,  that 
has  windows  to  admit  light,  air,  £cc.  as  necessity  may  require. 

Preserving  Green"  House  Plants  in  Gar  den-Frames. 

There  are  but  few  Green-House  plants  of  a  small  size,  but  may 
be  preserved  during  winter,  in  great  perfection,  in  garden-frames 
of  the  following  construction. 

The  frame  should  be  erected  on  a  bed  of  earth  in  a  remarkably 
dry  and  warm  exposure  ;  it  should  be  made  of  strong  planks,  four, 
five,  or  six  feet  high  in  the  back  (according  to  the  size  of  the  plants) 
eight  or  nine  inches  high  in  front,  and  four  or  five  feet  wide,  with 
iv.l s  sloping  accordingly.  The  length  should  be  in  proportion 
to  the* number  of  plants  you  have  to  winter,  but  at  every  nine  or 
ten  feet,  there  should  be  partitions  or  stays  in  the  inside  for  the 
support  of  the  back. 

Round  this  frame  you  are  to  form  another,  at  the  distance  of  two 
feet  therefrom*  made  of  any  kind  of  rough  boards,  supported  by 
posts,  and  of  the  same  height.  The  vacancy  between  both  frames 
is  to  be  filled  up  to  the  top  with  tanners  bark,  dry  litter,  leaves  of 
trees,  or  any  other  substance  that  will  keep  the  frost  from  pene- 
trating to  the  plants.  » 

Your  frame  being  thus  made,  plunge  the  pots  containing  the 
plants,  to  their  rims,  in  the  inside,  either  in  tan,  or  light  sandy 
earth,  placing  the  lowest  in  front  and  the  tallest  behind,  and  cover 
the  whole  with  well  glazed  and  well  fitted  sashes.  During  the 
rnost  severe  winter,  the  generality  of  Green-house  plants  may  be 
effectually  preserved  in  this,  or  the  like  frame,  by  laying  on  as  oc- 
casion requires,  a  sufficient  quantity  cf  mats  over  the  glasses,  and 
ever  these  a  covering  of  boards. 


OPT.]  THE  HOT-HOUSE;  541 

The  plants  are  to  have  light  and  air  given  to  them  at  every  fa- 
vourable opportunity,  aixl  should  be  treated,  generally,  as  directed 
for  those  in  the  Green -House. 

Many  other  similar  contrivances  may  be  made,  and  with  the  de- 
sired effect,  as  nothing  more  is  necessary  for  the  preservation  of 
these  plants,  than  light,  air,  a  moderate  share  of  moisture,  and  an 
effectual  protection  from  the  frost. 


THE  HOT-HOUSE. 

Fine-Apfdes. 

IN  the  early  part  of  this  month,  the  pine  plants  that  are  to 
produce  fruit  next  season,  should  be  removed  out  of  the  nursery- 
stove,  &cc.  into  the  fruiting-house ;  but  previous  to  this,  you 
should  take  out  of  the  pit  all  the  old  bark,  and  fill  it  \vifh  new,  fresh 
tan,  previouly  prepared  as  directed  last  month,  page  502  :  ob- 
serve not  to  put  it  into  the  pit  in  too  wet  a  state,  for  in  that  case  it 
would  be  a  long  time  before  it  would  come  to  a  kindly  heat,  and 
sometimes  not  at  all,  so  as  to  answer  the  end. 

Some  people  sift  the  old  bark,  and  use  the  coarse  part  with 
new,  about  one  half  of  each  ;  but  if  you  can  conveniently  procure 
a  sufficiency  of  new  tan  to  fill  the  pit  entirely,  it  will  answer  much 
better  for  this  pui  pose. 

When  the  bed  begins  to  heat  and  that  the  warmth  has  reached 
the  surfice,  bring  in  your  fruiting  plants  and  plunge  them  in  the 
bark  bed  to  their  rims  ;  or  if  you  are  apprehensive  of  the  new  bark 
heating  too  violently  at  first,  plunge  the  pots  only  half  way  for 
about  a  fortnight;  if  however  you  plunge  them  wholly  at  first,  you 
must  examine  the  bed  frequently  and  if  you  find  the  heat  at  any 
time  violent,  then  draw  the  pots  up  half  way,  or  quite  out  of  the 
tan  as  you  see  convenient,  to  prevent  its  burning  the  roots  of  the 
plants,  and  plunge  them  again  as  soon  as  it  can  be  done  with  safety ., 

The  plants  thus  finally  placed  in  the  fruiting  house,  are  to  get 
the  usual  and  necessary  attendance;  air  must  be  admitted  every 
mild  and  warm  day,  and  gentle  waterings  given  when  necessary. 

Towards  the  latter  end  of  the  month,  the  nights  will  be  grow- 
ing very  cold,  and  sometimes  it  may  be  found  necessary  to  kin- 
dle a  small  fire  in  the  evening ;  but  you  should  never  resort  to 
this,  while  the  heat  of  the  house  keeps  up  at  night  to  5'29  of  Fah- 
renheit, which  will  generally  be  the  case  during  the  whole  of  this 
month  if  you  take  care  to  shut  the  house  in  the  afternoon  when 
pretty  warm;  but  should  cold,  cloudy  weather,  continue  for -a  few 
days,  it  may  render  a  little  fire  necessary  notwithstanding. 

Succession  Pines. 

The  succession-house  should  now  be  replenished  from  the  pits, 

&c.  with  the   pines  next  in  growth  to  the  fruiting  plants  taken 


542  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  [OCT. 

out  of  it,  also  the  younger  successions  in  the  next  advancing  stage, 
should  be  placed  in  the  pits,  frames,  or  other  winter  departments. 
All  these  will  now  require  to  be  renewed  with  a  proper  quanti- 
ty of  new  tan,  one  half  at  least,  so  as  to  support  a  regular  heat  for 
u  considerable  time,  the  whole  of  tbe  old  tan  must  be  sifted,  and 
what  goes  through  the  screen,  may  be  used  for  covering  beds  where- 
in are  planted  bulbous  roots  &c.  to  protect  them  from  frost :  as 
much  new  tan  previously  made  sufficiently  dry,  must  be  added  to 
the  coarse  part,  as  will  fill  up  the  pits  again  a  little  above  the  top, 
mixing  both  well  together  as  you  proceed  in  the  filling.  This  done 
plunge  the  pots  as  directed  on  other  occasions. 

General  Care. 

The  pines  and  all  the  other  exotics,  must  have  regular  cave  and 
-ftltendance  ;  let  water  be  given  once  or  twice  a  week  to  some,  oftner 
to  others,  as  you  see  necessary,  being  careful  not  to  give  too  much 
at  a  time.,  for  that  would  not  only  injure  many  plants,  but  destroy 
the  heat  of  the  bark -bed. 

Admit  fresh  air  into  the  house  every  calm,  or  warm  day,  especi- 
ally when  the  sun  shines,  by  sliding  open  some  of  the  glasses  from 
nine  or  ten  o'  clock,  till  two,  three  or  four,  always  observing  to 
close  the  house  in  the  afternoon  while  the  air  is  warm,  to  super- 
cede  the  necessity  of  fire,  as  long  as  possible;  and  if  you  must  have 
recource  to  it,  towards  the  latter  end  of  the  months  use  it  but  mo- 
derately at  this  season. 

The  advantages  of  keeping  the  house  as  cool  as  may  be  consis- 
tent with  the  safety  of  the  plants,  during  this  and  the  next  moHtb, 
are  very  obvious,  all  the  plants  are  gradually  hardened  and  rendered 
thereby  capable  of  bearing  the  vicissitudes  of  the  winter  season,  bet- 
ter than  if  they  were  drawn  up  tender  and  weakly  by  too  much 
heat ;  but  the  pines  in  particular,  if  forced  at  this  season,  would, 
many  of  them,  start  to  fruit  at  an  untimely  period,  which  would 
get  stunted  and  misshapen  before  the  commencement  of  the  free 
spring  vegetation,  and  would  consequently  be  totally  lost,  or  not 
worth  their  room  in  the  house. 

When  the  leaves  of  any  plants  decay,  they  should  be  picked  off, 
and  the  house  kept  constantly  clear  from  fallen  leaves,  cobwebs,  or 
any  other  filth  ;  which  not  only  renders  the  house  neat,  but  is  very 
necessary  to  preserve  the  plants  in  health. 


Wintering  Hot -House  filanis  in  Garden-Frames. 

There  are  few  tropical  plants  but  may  be  preserved  during  win- 
ter, while  in  a  small  state,  in  garden-frames  well  constructed  and 
attended ;  so  that  an  ingenious  and  careful  gardner  may  not  despair 
of  preserving  the  most  rare  plants  in  winter,  without  the  aid  of  a 
Hot-House ;  and  even  where  there  is  one,  and  the  stock  of  plants 
too  numerous,  such  auxiliary  convenience  will  be  found  of  conside- 
rable utility. 


OCT.]  THE  HOT-HOUSE,  543 

A  frr.nie  for  this  purpose  should  be  made  about  nine  or  ten  feet 
•long,  four  to  five  wide,  three  and  a  half  high  in  front,  and  five  in  the 
back  part,  with  sashes  well  glazed  and  fitted  as  close  and  neat  as 
possible,  so  as  to  slide  up  and  down  freely.  This  frame  should  be 
placed  in  a  dry  well  sheltered  situation,  exposed  fully  to  the  south, 
and  where  it  can  have  the  benefit  of  the  sun  during  the  whole  day. 
It  should  be  filled  with  fresh  well  prepared  tan,  to  the  depth  of 
three  feet  when  settled,  and  the  pots  plugged  therein  to  their  rims, 
the  smallest  sized  plants  in  front,  the  largest  towards  the  back 
part. 

The  frame  should  be  entirely  surrounded  with  a  large  quantity 
of  the  fallen  leaves  of  trees  to  its  full  height,  having  siill  more  ia 
reserve  to  add,  as  the  others  sink  and  contract  in  bulk,  in  conse- 
quence of  fermentation  and  pressure;  always  keeping  them  full  up 
to  the  tofi  of  the  frame  on  every  side  ;  the  leaves  will  soon  heat  and 
cause  the  tan  to  ferment,  and  between  both  a  fine  glow  of  warmth 
will  be  kept  up  in  the  frame  during  the  whole  winter  ;  this  with  the 
assistance  of  a  suitable  covering  of  mats,  boards,  £cc.  at  night  and 
in  severe  weather,  will  keep  the  most  tender  plunts  in  health  and 
good  condition. 

Linings  of  hot  horse-dung  may  be  substituted  in  place  of  leaves, 
but  the  latter  is  preferable,  on  account  of  its  slow,  steady  and  long 
continued  heat. 

Oak  Leaves  used  as  a  substitute  for  Tan. 

As  oak  leaves  abound  in  almost  every  part  of  the  United  States, 
it  is  of  some  importance  to  know  that  they  may  be  used  in  forcing 
pits  of  every  kind,  in  place  of  tanners  bark  ;  and  with  advantage, 
their  heat  being  constant,  regular,  and  continuing  for  a  long  time, 
often  for  an  entire  year ;  whereas  bark  generally  turns  cold  soon 
after  its  violent  heat  is  gone  off,  which  obliges  the  gardener  to  fork 
it  up  frequently,  in  order  to  revive  the  heat. 

The  sooner  the  leaves  are  raked  up  after  they  fall  from  the  trees, 
the  better,  as  the  quality  and  fermenting  substance,  will  naturally 
decrease  during  the  time  they  are  exposed  to  the  weather. 

When  raked  up  they  should  be  carried  immediately  into  some 

open  shed,  and  there  thrown  into  a  heap  to  settle  and  ferment 

In  this  place  tread  them  well,  and  water  them  a  little  if  you  find 
they  are  rather  dry.  The  heap  should  be  at  least  six  or  seven 
feet  in  thickness,  and  covered  with  old  mats  as  well  to  promote  a 
general  fermentation  as  to  prevent  the  upper  leaves  from  being 
blown  away  by  the  wind.  They  should  be  suffered  to  remain  in 
this  state  for  four  or  five  weeks,  by  which  time  they  will  be  pro- 
perly prepared  for  the  pits,  and  will  not  settle  down  much  after. 
In  putting  them  into  the  pits,  if  they  appear  dry,  water  them  aliC- 
tle  and  tread  them  in  layers,  exceeding  well,  till  the  pits  are  quite 
full:  then  cover  the  whole  with  tan  to  the  thickness  of  two  inches 
and  tread  it  weil  till  the  surface  becomes  smooth  and  even.  On  thrs 
place  your  pots  of  pines  or  other  tender  plants  in  the  manner  they 
are  to  stand,  filling  up  the  spaces  betwcn  them  with  tan  as  you  pro- 
ceed row  by  row. 


544  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  [NOV. 

After  this,  the  leaves  require  no  farther  trouble  the  whole  season 
through,  as  they  will  retain  a  constant  and  regular  heat  for  twelve 
mouths,  "without  either  stirring  or  turning. 

Leaves  mixed  with  stable  dung  make  excellent  hot-beds,  which 
preserve  their  heat  much  longer  than  when  made  of  dung  only. 


NOVEMBER. 

WORK  TO  BE  DONE  IN  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN. 


AS  this  is  a  period  in  which  much  may  be  done,  tov/ards  the 
laying  out  and  preparing  of  new  Kitchen-gardens  for  the  ensuing 
season,  &c.  I  refer  you  for  general  instructions  on  that  subject,  to 
page  100,  8cc. 

Spinach^  Corn-SaHad,  and  IVtntcr-Cresses. 

You  should  now  be  very  attentive  to  the  keeping  of  your  winter 
spinach  free  from  weeds,  and  to  the  thinning  of  the  plants  where 
they  stand  too  close ;  otherwise  they  will  not  be  sufficiently  strong 
and  firm  to  endure  the  severity  of  the  approaching  frosts. 

Corn-sallad  and  winter-cresses,  should  be  treated  as  directed  for 
spinach,  and  for  the  same  reason  ;  but  the  distance  of  two  or  three 
inches,  plant  from  plant,  will  be  sufficient  for  these.  This  should 
be  done  early  in  the  month,  for  it  is  not  prudent  either  to  thin  or 
weed  succulent  plants  of  any  kind,  immediately  on  the  eve  of  a 
severe  frost,  as  the  sudden  exposure  of  the  shaded  and  tender  parts 
to  it,  would  prove  very  destructive. 

Winter-dressing  of  Asparagus  Beds. 

Where  omitted  last  month,  dress  your  asparagus-beds  as  directed 
in  page  511.  Indeed  there  is  no  better  season  than  the  first  or 
second  week  of  this  month,  for  that  business. 

Lettuces. 

The  lettuces  which  were  planted  in  frames  last  month,  should 
be  still  suffered  to  enjoy  the  free  air  every  day  while  the  weather 
continues  mild  and  dry,  by  taking  the  glasses  entirely  off  eany  in 
the  morning ;  but  let  them  be  put  on  again  in  the  evening,  or  when- 
ever the  weather  becomes  cold  or  wet ;  for  if  these  plants  are  kept 
too  close,  they  will  draw  up  and  become  weakly,  tender j  and  of 
Jit  tie  value. 


NOV.]  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  545 

When  the  weather  is  very  wet  or  cold,  keep  the  glasses  on,  and 
should  the  frost  set  in  rather  too  severe  towards  the  end  of  the 
month,  you  must  give  the  necessary  covering  so  as  to  prevent  the 
plants  from  getting-  frozen  ;  but  be  careful  to  admit  air  to  them  at 
every  favourable  opportunity. 

In  the  first  week  of  this  month,  you  should  plant  into  the  frames, 
if  omitted  in  October,  such  lettuces  as  are  designed  to  be  wintered 
therein,  this  should  on  no  account  be  delayed  to  a  later  period. 

On  the  approach  of  severe  frost  protect  your  lettuces  on  warm 
borders,  Sec.  as  directed  in  page  504. 

N.  B.  Lettuces  make  a  most  delicious  boiled  sallad,  which  in  the 
estimation  of  most  people  who  have  tried  it,  is  much  superior  to 
spinach.  This  observation  escaped  my  recollection  while  writing 
the  work  of  the  summer  months,  where  it  might  have  been  more 
appropriately  inserted  ;  as  then,  thousands  of  heads  start  to  seed  and 
are  totally  lost,  which  might  be  profitably  used  in  this  way.  They 
are  generally  in  an  excellent  condition  for  this  purpose,  at  any  time 
from  the  period  of  their  having  attained  a  sufficient  size,  till  the 
hearts  or  center  stems  have  shot  towards  seeding  six  or  eight  in- 
ches high,  so  that  when  they  are  past  use  for  a  raw  sallad,  they 
are  yet  good  for  a  boiled  one. 

Small  Sallading. 

Small  sallading  of  every  kind  will  now  require  to  be  sown  on  a 
slight  hot-bed,  under  the  protection  of  frames  and  glasses  ;  other- 
wise disappointment  will  ensue,  especially  if  the  cold  sets  in  early. 
In  mild  weather  admit  plenty  of  air  to  give  strength  to  the  plants. 

Garlick  Rocambole,  and  Shallots. 

You  may  now  plant  garlick,  rocambole,  and  shallots ;  the  earlier 
in  the  month  that  this  is  done  the  better.  When  planted  at  this 
season  in  dry,  light,  rich  ground,  the  roots  will  be  much  larger 
than  if  deferred  till  spring.  The  bulbs  of  the  common  garlick  or 
Allium  sativum,  grow  to  a  larger  size  than  those  of  the  rocambole, 
or  Allium  Scorodofirasum^  but  som^  people  conceive  the  latter  to  be 
of  a  better  flavour. 

The  true  shallot,  or  Allium  ascalonicum,  is  considered  to  possess 
the  most  agreeable  flavour  of  any  of  that  genus,  and  is,  conse- 
quently, highly  deserving  of  cultivation. 

For  the  method  of  planting  each  of  the  above  sorts,  see  page  190 ; 
but  in  planting  the  bulbs  produced  on  the  tops  of  the  garlick  and 
rocambole  stalks,  observe  to  cover  them  only  about  two  inches 
deep,  as  they  are  not  so  large  or  strong  as  the  cloves  of  the  roots. 

Cabbage  and  Cauliflower  Plants. 

During  the  continuance  of  mild  weather,  give  your  cabbage  and 
cauliflower  plants  every  advantage  of  free  air,  to  inure  them  by  de- 
grees to  bear  the  cold,  by  taking  the  glasses  off  totally,  in  the 

4  A 


£46  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  [NOV. 

Warm  part  of  the  day,  but  be  attentive  to  lay  them  on  again  at 
liight  and  in  wet  or  cold  weather.  On  coldish  days,  except  there 
is  a  cutting  frosty  wind,  you  may  raise  the  glasses  a  little  behind 
tor  the  admission  of  air  :  however,  if  a  severe  frost  should  set  in, 
in  the  course  of  the  month,  you  must  cover  the  beds  carefully  at 
night,  and  at  other  times  when  necessary,  to  protect  the  plants 
therefrom.  But  having  given  general  instructions  for  the  methods 
of  treating  cabbage  plants  in  page  501,  and  cauliflower  plants  in 
page  50(3,  I  now  refer  you  thereto  for  further  information. 

Observe  that  the  cauliflower  being  much  more  tender  than  the 
cabbage  plants,  will  require  more  care  and  covering  to  protect 
them  from  frost ;  and  that  either,  will  be  greatly  injured  by  being 
deprived  of  light  or  aiv,  longer  than  their  safety  or  preservation  re- 
quire. 

Preserving  Cabbages  and  JBoreCclc,  for  Winter  and  S/iring  use. 

Immediately  previous  to  the  setting  in  of  hard  frost,  take  up 
your  cabbages  and  savoys,  observing  to  do  it  in  a  dry  day  ;  turn 
their  tops  downward  and  let  them  remain  so  for  a  few  hours,  to 
drain  off  any  water  that  may  be  lodged  between  ihe  leaves;  then 
make  choice  of  a  ridge  of  dry  earth  in  a  well  sheltered  warm  ex- 
posure, and  plant  them  down  to  their  heads  therein,  close  to  one 
another,  having  previously  taken  off  some  of  their  loose  hanging 
leaves.  Immediately  erect  over  them  a  low  temporary  shed,  of 
any  kind  that  will  keep  them  perfectly  free  from  wet,  which  is  to 
be  open  at  both  ends,  to  admit  a  current  of  air  in  mild  dry  weather. 
These  ends  are  to  be  closed  with  straw  when  the  weather  is  very 
severe.  In  this  situation  your  cabbages  will  keep  in  a  high  state  of 
preservation  till  spring,  for  being  kept  perfectly  free  from  wet  as 
well  as  from  the  action  of  the  sun,  the  frost  will  have  little  or  no 
effect  upon  them.  In  such  a  place  the  heads  may  be  cut  off  as 
wanted,  and  if  frozen,  soak  them  in  spring,  well,  or  pump  water, 
for  a  few  hours  previous  to  their  being  cooked,  which  will  dissolve 
the  frost  and  extract  any  disagreeable  taste  occasioned  thereby. 

Some  plant  their  cabbages,  after  being  taken  up  and  drained  as 
above,  in  airy  or  well  ventillated  cellars,  in  earth  or  sand  up  to  their 
heads,  where  they  will  keep  tolerably  well,  but  in  close,  warm, 
or  damp  cellars,  they  soon  decay. 

Others  make  a  trench  in  dry  sandy  ground,  and  place  the  cab- 
bages therein,  after  being  well  drained  and  dry,  and  most  of  their 
outside  loose  green  leaves  pulled  off,  roots  upward,  the  heads  con- 
tiguous to,  but  not  touching  each  other  ;  they  then  cover  them  with 
the  dryest  earth  or  sand  that  can  be  conveniently  procured,  and 
form  a  ridge  of  earth  over  them  like  the  roof  of  a  house  ;  some  ap- 
ply dry  straw  immediately  round  the  heads,  but  this  is  a  bad  prac- 
tice, as  the  straw  will  soon  become  damp  and  mouldy,  and  will  of 
course  communicate  the  disorder  to  the  cabbages. 

Upon  the  whole  the  first  method  is  in  my  opinion  the  most  pre- 
ferable, as  there  is  no  way  in  which  cabbages  will  keep  better,  if 
preserved  from  wet;  and  besides,  they  can  be  conveniently  obtain- 
ed, whenever  they  are  wanted  for  use. 


NOV.]  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  547 

The  green  and  brown  curled  borecole  being  very  hardy,  will  re-- 
quire but  little  protection  ;  they  may  now  be  taken  up  and  planted 
in  a  ridge  tolerably  close  together,  and  during  severe  frost  covered 
lightly  with  straw,  this  will  preserve  them  sufficiently,  and  during 
winter  the  heads  may  be  cut  off  as  they  are  wanted  for  use ;  the 
stems  if  taken  up  and  planted  in  rows,  us  early  in  March  as  the 
weather  will  admit,  will  produse  abundance  of  the  most  delicious 
sprouts. 

In  the  southern  states,  and  even  in  warm  soils  and  exposures  in 
the  middle  states,  borecole  will  stand  the  winter  in  open  beds  with- 
out any  covering  whatever. 

Cauit/lovtera  and  Broccoli, 

Your  late  cauliflowers,  and  broccoli,  will  now  be  producing  their 
heads  j  therefore  it  will  be  necessary  to  break  down  some  of  the 
largest  leaves  over  the  flowers,  to  preserve  them  from  the  effects 
of  sun,  rain,  and  IVost. 

Such  plants  of  either  sort  as  are  not  likely  to  flower  before  the 
commencement  of  severe  frost,  should  be  taken  up  and  planted  as 
recommended  in,  the  first  instance  for  cabbages,  where  if  well  pro- 
tected from  wet  and  frost,  they  will  continue  to  produce  fine  flowers 
all  winter. 

Or  they  may  be  planted  in  a  dry  warm  cellar  in  the  same  matt- 
ner  as  directed  for  cabbages,  where  they  will  also  flower  in  winter  j 
indeed  I  have  had  tolerable  gop4  ilawsrs  from  strong  plants  hung 
up  in  a  damp  warm  cellar. 

Preserving  Tumefis^  Carrots^  Parsncjis^  J3cets  and  Salsafy-^  &c. 

Previous  to  the  commencement  of  severe  frost,  you  should  take 
up  with  as  little  injury  as  possible,  the  roots  of  your  turneps,  car- 
rots, parsneps,  beets,  salsafy,  scorzonera,  Hamburg  or  large  rooted 
parsley,  skirrets,  Jerusalem  artichokes,  turnen^rooted  celery,  and 
a  sufficiency  of  horse-radish  for  the  winter  consumption  ;  cut  off 
their  tops  and  expose  the  roots  for  a  few  hours  till  sufficiently  dry. 
On  the  surface  of  a  very  dry  spot  of  ground  in  a  well  sheltered 
situation,  lay  a  stratum  of  sand  two  inches  thick,  and  on  this  a 
layer  of  roots  of  either  sort,  covering  them  with  another  layer  of 
sand  (the  drier  the  better)  and  so  continue  layer  about  of  sand  and 
roots  till  all  are  laid  in,  giving  the  whole  on  every  side  a  roof-like 
slope  ;  then  cover  this  heap  or  ridge  all  over  with  about  two  inches 
of  sand,  over  which  lay  a  good  coat  of  drawn  straw  up  and  down 
as  if  thatching  a  house,  in  order  to  carry  off  wet  and  prevent  its 
entering  to  the  roots;  then  dig  a  wide  trench  round  the  heap  and 
cover  the  straw  with  the  earth  so  dug  up,  to  a  depth  sufficient  to 
preserve  the  roots  effectually  from  frost.  An  opening  may  be 
made  on  the  south  side  of  this  heap,  and  completely  covered  with 
bundles  of  straw  so  as  to  have  access  to  the  roots  at  all  times,  when 
wanted  either  for  sale  or  use. 

Some  people  lay  straw,  or  hay,  between  the  layers  of  roots  and 
immediately  on  the  top  of  them  j  this  I  do  not  approve  of,  as  the 


£48  THE  KITCHHEN-GARDEN.  [NOV. 

straw  or  hay  will  become  clamp  and  mouldy,  and  very  often  occa- 
sion the  roots  to  rot,  while  the  sand  would  preserve  them  sweet  and 
sound. 

All  these  roots  may  be  preserved  in  like  manner  in  a  cellar ;  but 
in  such  a  pLce  they  are  subject  to  vegetate  and  become  stringey 
earlier  in  spring.  The  only  advantage  of  this  method  is,  that  in 
the  cellar  they  may  be  had  when  wanted,  more  conveniently  during 
winter,  than  out  of  the  field  or  garden  heaps. 

Note.  All  the  above  roots  will  preserve  better  in  sand  than  in 
common  earth,  but  when  the  former  cannot  be  had,  the  sandiest 
earth  you  can  procure  must  be  dispensed  with. 

Celery,  Endive,  and  Cardoons. 

Continue  during  the  early  part  of  this  month  to  blanch  your 
celery,  endive  and  cardoons,  as  directed  in  the  preceding  months; 
but  when  the  severe  frosts  approach,  they  must  be  preserved  there- 
from, either  in  the  following  or  some  other  more  convenient  and 
effectual  manner. 

Every  third  row  of  the  celery  may  be  suffered  to  stand  where 
growing,  opening  a  trench  on  each  side  of  every  standing  row, 
within  six  or  eight  inches  thereof,  for  the  reception  of  the  plants 
of  the  other  two  rows,  which  are  to  be  carefully  taken  up  with  as 
little  injury  as  possible  either  to  their  tops  or  roots,  and  planted  in 
those  new  trenches,  in  the  same  order  as  they  formerly  stood. 
The  whole  being  thus  planted,  three  rows  together,  they  are  to  be 
earthed  up  near  the  extremities  of  their  leaves,  and  as  soon  as  the 
frost  becomes  pretty  ketn,  in  a  very  dry  day  cover  the  whole  with 
straw,  and  over  this  a  good  coat  of  earth. 

When  this  plan  is  intended,  the  celery  should  in  the  first  in- 
stance be  planted  in  rows,  east  and  west,  so  that  when  the  whole  is 
covered  for  winter  use  as  above,  the  south  side,  especially  if  pro- 
tected a  little  with  straw,  Sec.  may  be  easily  opened  to  take  out  the 
plants  when  wanted  for  use. 

Or  if  you  have  the  convenience  of  a  deep  garden-frame,  you 
may  almost  fill  it  with  fresh  sand,  and  then  take  up  and  plant  there- 
in, so  close  as  nearly  to  touch  one  another,  a  quantity  of  your  best 
and  largest  celery,  and  so  deep  as  .to  be  covered  within  five  or  six 
inches  of  their  tops ;  place  on  your  glasses  immediately,  and  suf- 
fer neither  rain  or  water  to  reach  the  plants,  except  a  very  gentle 
shower,  occasionally,  in  warm  weather. 

When  severe  frosts  set  in,  lay  dung,  tan,  leaves  of  trees,  or 
other  litter  round  the  sides  and  ends  of  the  frame,  and  cover  the 
glasses  with  mats,  &c.  so  as  to  keep  out  the  frost.  By  this  means 
you  can  have  celery  during  winter  in  the  greatest  perfection  and  as 
convenient  us  you  could  desire. 

Or  celery  may  now  be  taken  up  when  dry,  well  aired,  and  plant- 
ed in  sand  in  a  dry  cellar,  in  the  same  manner  as  directed  for 
planting  it  in  the  frame ;  observing,  in  either  case,  to  lay  up  the 
stalks  and  leaves  neat  and  close,  and  to  do  as  little  injury  to  either 
as  possible, 

The  beds  of  celery  which  Were  planted  as  directed  in  page  423, 
should,  in  the  early  part  of  this  month,  be  earthed  up  to  within  six 


NOV.]  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN. 

or  eight  inches  of  the  tops  of  the  plants,  and  on  the  approach  of 
hard  frost,  additionally  earthed  to  the  very  extremities  of  their 
leaves  ;  then  lay  a  covering  of  dry  sandy  earth  on  the  top  of  each 
bed,  the  whole  length,  so  as  to  give  it  a  rounding ;  on  this,  place  a 
coat  of  dry  straw,  drawn  and  laid  on  advantageously  to  cast  off  the 
wet,  and  of  a  sufficient  thickness  to  effectually  resist  the  frost; 
after  which  cut  a  trench  round  the  bed  to  carry  off  and  prevent  any 
lodgement  of  water.  Here  you  can  have  access  to  your  celery, 
and  it  will  continue  in  a  high  state  of  preservation  during  the  whole 
winter  and  early  spring  months. 

Endive  may  be  preserved  in  a  frame,  or  cellar,  as  directed  for 
celery,  or  as  recommended  in  page  5 10. 

Cardoons  may  be  preserved  either  in  sand  in  a  cellar,  or  by 
banking  up  a  sufficiency  of  earth  to  them  where  they  grow,  and 
covering  the  tops,  8cc.  with  straw  or  long  litter. 

N.  B.  A.11  the  above  work  must  be  performed  in  dry  weather  and 
when  the  plants  are  perfectly  free  from  wet,  otherwise  they  will 
be  very  subject  to  rot. 

Sowing  Rhubarb,  Sea-kale,  and  other  Seeds. 

You  should  now  sow  the  seeds  of  rhubarb,  sea-kale,  skirrets, 
alesanders,  dill,  and  any  other  kinds  of  seed  that  do  not  vegetate 
freely  if  kept  out  of  the  ground  till  spring  j  sow  them  as  directed 
in  March,  and  be  not  under  the  least  apprehension  of  the  frost  do- 
ing them  any  injury. 

Mushrooms, 

The  mushroom  beds  must  be  carefully  protected  from  wet  and 
frost,  as  directed  in  page  507,  Sec. 

Winter  dressing  of  Artichokes. 

The  winter  dressing  of  artichokes  is  an  important  operation,  and 
on  it  depends  much  oi'  their  future  success.  This  should  not  be 
given  them  as  long  as  the  weather  continues  mild,  that  they  may 
have  all  the  advantage  possible  of  growth,  and  be  gradually  inured 
to  the  present  increasing  cold ;  but  it  should  not  be  deferred  till 
the  setting  in  of  hard  frost,  lest  the  entire  work  be  prevented 
thereby. 

In  the  first  place,  cut  all  the  large  leaves  close  to  the  gound, 
leaving  but  the  small  ones  which  rise  from  the  hearts  of  the  plants ; 
alter  this,  line  and  mark  out,  a  trench  in  the  middle  between  each 
row,  from  fourteen  to  sixteen  inches  wide,  presuming  that  the 
rows  are  five  feet  apart,  as  directed  under  the  article  planting  arti- 
chokes, in  page  195.  Then  lightly  dig  the  surface  of  the  beds  from 
trench  to  trench,  burying  the  weeds,  and  as  you  proceed,  gather 
the  earth  round  the  crowns  of  the  plants  to  the  height  of  about  bix 
inches,  placing  it  in  gently,  between  the  young  rising  leaves  with- 
out burying  them  entirely  under  it;  this  done  dig  the  trenches  one 


550  THE  KlTCHENtGARDEN.  [NOV. 

spade  deep,  and  cast  the  earth  thereof  equally  between  and  on  each 
side  the  plants,  so  as  to  level  the  ridges,  giving  them  at  the  same 
time,  a  neat  rounding  form ;  finish  by  casting  up  with  a  shovel  the 
loose  earth  out  of  the  bottoms  of  the  trenches  evenly  over  the  ridges, 
in  order  that  the  water  occasioned  by  heavy  rains,  &c.  may  imme- 
diately run  off;  on  which  account  the  trenches  ought  to  have  a 
gentle  declivity,  as  a  lodgement  of  water  about  the  roots  in  winter, 
is  the  greatest  evil  and  danger  they  have  to  encounter;  even  great- 
er than  the  most  severe  frost  of  our  climates. 

The  beds  are  to  remain  so,  until  there  is  an  appearance 
of  hard  frost,  when  they  should  be  covered  with  light  dry  litter, 
straw,  leaves  of  trees,  fern,  peas-haulm  or  the  like,  the  better  to 
preserve  the  crowns  and  roots  from  its  rigour.  In  this  manner 
the  roots  will  remain  in  perfect  safety  all  winter,  and  in  March 
they  are  to  have  their  spring  dressing  as  directed  in  page  195. 

When  your  artichoke  plantation  wants  manure,  lay  on  a  coat  of 
old  rotten  dung  previous  to  the  digging  of  the  trenches,  and  cover 
it  over  with  the  earth  as  you  throw  it  up  ;  in  the  spring  following 
dig  it  in. 

Forcing  Asparagus. 

This  is  a  very  proper  time  to  begin  to  force  asparagus  in  hot- 
beds;  for  the  method  see  page  115. 

You  should  now,  previous  to  the  setting  in  of  hard  frost,  cover 
the  asparagus-beds,  containing  the  plants  which  you  intend  to  force 
during  the  ensuing  months,  with  as  much  straw,  or  light  litter  of 
some  kind,  as  will  prevent  the  ground  from  becoming  frozen,  so 
that  you  can  take  up  the  roots  with  convenience  and  without  injury 
when  wanted.  This  method  is  preferable  to  taking  them  up  and 
depositing  them  in  a  cellar,  in  sand  or  earth,  which  is  practised  by 
some  gardeners. 

Onions. 

The  young  crops  of  Welch  onion,  or  Allium  Jisiulosum,  should  be 
kept  free  from  weeds;  some  may  be  thinned  out  for  use  in  sallads, 
See.  the  remaining  plants  will  stand  the  winter,  even  if  their  foliage 
decay,  and  produce  a  plentiful  supply  early  in  spring. 

Dried  onions  should  be  occasionally  examined,  and  such  as  show 
a  tendency  to  rot  carefully  picked  out. 

Patience  Dock. 

The  Rumex  Patientia,  or  patience  dock,  being  a  plant  that  af- 
fords an  early  spring  sallad  for  boiling,  and  being  perennial  in  root 
is  deserving  of  a  place  in  the  garden.  The  leaves  are  very  large, 
long  and  succulent,  and  are  produced  in  great  abundance  ;  the  plant 
may  be  propagated  by  sowing  the  seed  any  time  this  month  while 
the  ground  continues  open,  and  the  plants  will  rise  freely  in  spring, 
'or  you  may  sow  the  seeds  in  March  or  early  in  April,  but  those 


wov.]  THE  FRUIT-GARDEN.  551 

sown  at  this  time  will  make  stronger  and  earlier  plants ;  the  seeds 
may  be  sown  pretty  thick  in  drills  eighteen  inches  asunder,  and 
covered  about  half  an  inch  deep ;  when  the  plants  are  about  two 
inches  high,  thin  them  to  the  distance  of  eight  inches  from  one 
another,  and  so  let  them  remain,  always  keeping  them  free  from 
weeds.  It  may  also  be  propagated  by  offsets  from  the  root  taken 
off  in  the  spring  or  late  autumn  months,  and  planted  in  rows  at  the 
above  distances ;  and  by  heading  it  down  frequently  during  sum- 
mer, as  it  starts  to  seed,  you  will  increase  the  crops  of  foliage. 

Dung  and  Trench  Ground. 

In  the  beginning  of  this  month,  dung  and  trench  the  ground  that 
is  intended  for  early  crops,  and  lay  it  up  in  high  narrow  sloping 
ridges,  particularly  if  it  be  any  way  stiff,  or  of  a  heavy  nature,  to 
receive  the  benefit  of  the  winter  frosts,  Sec.  which  will  enrich,  mel- 
low, refresh,  and  sweeten  it ;  besides  by  getting  as  much  of  this 
work  performed  now,  as  can  be  conveniently  clone,  it  will  greatly 
forward  and  assist  your  affairs  in  spring,  when  hurried  by  a  pres- 
sure of  other  business. 

Should  the  frost  set  in,  towards  the  latter  end  of  the  month,  so 
as  to  bind  up  the  ground,  and  prevent  the  operation  of  trenching, 
you  may  cart  or  wheel  manure  into  the  different  quarters,  where 
wanted,  which  will  help  to  forward  your  business  considerably. 


SOUTHERN    STATES. 

Transplant  finally,  cabbage  and  cauliflower  plants,  but  where  the 
winter  frosts  are  rather  severe,  the  latter  will  want  occasional  pro- 
tection of  some  sort ;  plant  early  Mazagan,  Windsor,  and  long-pod 
beans,  and  sow  a  succession  crop  of  early  peas  ;  earth  up  your  ad- 
vancing crops  of  the  cabbage  tribe,  celery,  and  cardoons,  blanch 
endive,  sow  spinage,  radish,  lettuce,  and  likewise  small  sallading  of 
every  kind  on  warm  borders  ;  the  latter  will  require  the  protection 
of  a  frame  and  glasses,  in  cold  or  frosty  weather. 


THE  FRUIT-GARDEN, 

Planting  Espalier  and  Wall  Trees,  &c. 

IN  the  early  part  of  this  month,  plant  apple,  pear,  quince, 
plum,  cherry,  peach,  nectarine,  almond  and  apricot  trees,  either 
for  espaliers,  against  walls,  or  for  half  or  whole  standards  ;  observ- 
ing that  the  ground  in  which  you  plant  at  this  season,  lies  perfectly 
dry  during  winter.  For  further  particulars,  see  the  Fruit-Garden 
for  last  month,  page  515,  and  also  page  213. 


£52  THE  FRUIT-GARDEN.  [NOV. 


Gooseberries  and  Currants. 

This  is  a  very  suitable  and  proper  season  for  the  planting  and 
pruning  of  gooseberries,  and  currants  ;  but  for  particulars  I  refer 
you  to  pages  516  and  517. 

Cuttings  of  either  kind  may  now  be  planted  as  directed  in  page 
284,  but  they  must  be  stout  and  pretty  long,  so  as  to  be  planted 
about  ten  inches  deep,  or  the  frost  during  winter  will  be  very  apt 
to  throw  them  out  of  the  ground. 

Gooseberry  seed  may  now  be  sown  as  directed  in  page  5 1 7,  with 
a  view  to  obtain  new  varieties.  Currants  and  raspberries  may  in 
like  manner  be  raised  from  seed,  and  improved  sorts  obtained 
thereby. 

Raspberries. 

As  long  as  the  weather  continues  open  you  may  transplant  and 
make  new  plantations  of  raspberries,  but  the  earlier  in  the  month 
that  this  can  be  done  the  better ;  especially  if  you  have  to  trans- 
plant the  Antwerp  varieties.  For  further  information  on  the  sub- 
ject of  planting  and  pruning  raspberries,  see  page  517,  &c. 

The  red  and  white  Antwerp  kinds  are  excellent  fruit,  and  less 
hardy  than  the  other  varieties  ;  consequently,  it  will  be  necessary, 
in  the  eastern  and  middle  states,  to  lay  down  the  young  shoots  of 
the  present  season,  immediately  previous  to  the  commencement  of 
hard  frost,  first  cutting  off  close  to  the  ground,  the  shoots  which 
had  borne  fruit  the  preceding  summer.  The  supernumerary 
weakly  shoots  may  also  be  cut  off  and  likewise  the  straggling  lops 
of  those  you  intend  to  lay  down,  or  they  may  now  have  a  general 
and  final  pruning  as  directed  in  page  131. 

This  done  dig  the  earth  between  the  rows,  clearing  out  all  use- 
less suckers  and  weeds,  previously  adding  some  very  rotten  ma- 
nure, if  the  ground  seems  to  need  it,  then  being  provided  with 
some  hooked  wooden  pegs,  and  a  number  oflong,  small  hoop-poles,  or 
the  like,  lay  down  each  row  of  shoots  gently  on  one  side,  on  which 
lay  the  hoop-poles,  lengthwise  the  rows,  pegging  them  down  with 
the  hooked  sticks  so  as  to  keep  the  shoots  close  to  the  earth  ;  after 
which  cover  all  over  with  light  litter,  straw,  hay,  barley  chaff,  fern, 
leaves  of  trees,  or  any  other  light  covering,  that  will  protect  the 
plants  from  the  effects  of  the  various  changes  of  the  weather, 
which,  and  not  the  frost  only,  are  the  causes  of  their  destruction. 
Here  they  will  remain  in  safe  and  good  condition  till  the  beginning 
of  March,  when  the  litter  is  to  be  taken  off,  the  plants  raised  up, 
and  the  ground  receive  its  spring  dressing. 

Some  lay  the  shoots  into,  and  cover  them  with  the  earth;  but 
although  this  has  a  clean  appearance,  and  sometimes  will  answer 
very  well,  the  buds  will  be  more  liable  to  receive  injury  in  this 
way,  than  when  covered  with  light  litter  as  above. 


NOV.]  THE  ORCHARD.  553 

Fig  Trees. 

The  more  tender  kinds  of  fig  trees  which  are  planted  against 
walls,  or  board  fences,  should  now  be  gone  over,  and  all  fruit  found 
thereon,  whether  ripe  or  unripe,  picked  off;  for  these  would  rot  in 
winter,  and  injure  the  young  branches  intended  for  next  years  bear- 
ing. 

At  the  same  time,  nail  up  close  to  the  wall  or  fence  all  the  prin- 
cipal shoots,  the  better  to  secure  them  from  the  frost  and  power  of 
the  wind;  and  if  bass-mats  are  likewise  nailed  up,  so  as  to  cover  the 
trees,  an  important  protection  will  be  afforded  thereby  to  the  young 
shoots.  As  to  pruning,  that  should  not  h-i  done,  either  in  the  middle 
or  Eastern  states  till  March.  See  page  208. 

Fig-trees  growing  in  the  espalier  way,  may  also  be  protected  from 
frost,  by  laying  bass-mats  over  them,  and  making  them  fast,  or 
by  laying  boughs  of  pine  or  cedur  up  to  them.  It  would  also  be  pro- 
per in  a  severe  season  to  lay  some  long  litter  round  the  roots  of  the 
trees. 

Pruning  of  Fruit  Trees. 

Having  in  the  Fruit -gar  den,  for  October,  expressed  my  opinion 
respecting  the  pruning  of  fruit-trees  at  this  season,  it  is  unnecessary 
to  repeat  it  in  this  place.  See  page  515. 


THE  ORCHARD. 

Planting^  We. 

THIS  being  an  eligible  period  for  planting  of  orchards  on  dry 
ground,  and  indeed  they  never  should  be  planted  on  a  cold,  wet,  or 
swampy  soil,  I  refer  you  to  the  article  Orchard  in  March*  where  you 
will  find  ample  instructions  respecting  the  extent,  aspect,  situation, 
and  soil ;  the  preparation  of  the  ground,  the  choice  of  trees  and 
method  of  planting,  &c.  all  which  are  equally  applicable  in  this 
month  as  in  that,  and  a  reference  thereto  will  at  present  supercede 
the  necessity  of  a  repetition. 

Apples,  pears,  quinces,  plums,  cherries,  peaches,  nectarines, 
apricots,  and  almonds  may  now  be  planted;  also,  walnuts,  chesnuts, 
filberts,  persimmons,  berberries,  medlars,  and  every  other  kind  of 
hardy  fruit-trees,  agreeably  to  the  directions  given  in  March. 

Pruning. 

As  you  may  now  commence  the  pruning  of  apple  and  pear  trees, 
Sec.  I  would  strongly  recommend  to  your  perusal  at  this  time,  the  en- 
tire of  the  article  Orchard  in  January ,  beginning  at  page  38,  and  also 
the  same  article  in  February ',  page  133,  8cc. 

4  B 


554  THE  VINEYARD,  [NOV. 

Old  fruit  trees  having  scaly,  rough  bark,  should  in  this  month,  if 
not  done  in  the  former,  be  brushed  over  with  a  mixture  of  cow-dung 
and  urine,  as  directed  in  page  521. 


THE  VINEYARD. 

Pruning  of  Vims. 

THE  pruning  of  grape-vines  at  this  season,  will  answer  extremely- 
well  in  the  southern  states,  and  ought  to  be  duly  attended  to  ;  but 
the  severity  of  the  frosts  in  the  middle  and  eastern  states,  renders 
it  more  prudent  to  defer  this  work  to  the  latter  end  of  February,  or 
if  the  season  proves  late,  the  first  week  in  March  ;  but  upon  no  ac- 
count should  you  delay  it  longer :  indeed  upon  the  whole,  the  late 
February  pruning  will  be  the  safest.  In  the  city  and  neighbourhood 
of  Philadelphia,  vines  that  were  pruned  on  the  first  and  second  days 
of  March,  1805,  wept  copiously  a  few  days  after,  but  some  cold 
weather  ensuing,  they  stopped  bleeding;  this  shews  the  necessity 
of  pruning  in  February,  especially  in  warm  situations  or  exposures. 

Those  who  prefer  pruning  their  vines  at  this  time,  as  well  as 
those  who  from  the  temperateness  of  their  climate  sought  to  do  it, 
will  find  the  necessary  instructions  in  page  139,  Sec. 

Winter  Dressing  of  Vines. 

You  should  now  plough  between  the  rows  of  vines  in  your  vine- 
yard, where  practicable,  having  first  tied  up  all  the  trailing  runners 
to  the  stakes ;  observing  to  lay  up  the  earth  as  much  as  possible  to 
the  stems  of  the  vines  :  to  effect  this  the  better,  the  ground  must 
be  cross-ploughed.  The  one  and  two  year  old  plants,  will  particularly 
require  this  earthing  ;  and  after  the  ploughing  is  finished,  the  earth 
should  be  drawn  up  round  them  with  a  hoe,  the  better  to  preserve 
the  lower  parts  of  the  stems  with  the  buds  from  alternate  freezing 
and  thawing,  which  is  much  more  injurious  to  them  than  a  continued 
frost.  In  this  state  they  are  to  remain  till  the  proper  time  for  pru- 
ning in  spring,  when  the  earth  is  to  be  drawn  from  around  them, 
and  the  plants  dressed  as  directed  in  page  139. 

When  the  ground  does  not  admit  of  this  culture  with  the  plough, 
it  should  be  given  with  the  spade  and  hoe,  as  it  is  of  considerable 
importance,  not  only  to  protect  the  plants,  but  to  destroy  weeds,  and 
meliorate  the  soil,  by  throwing  it  up  loosely  to  the  influence  of  the 
frost  and  weather.  A  dressing  of  manure,  where  wanted,  should  be 
given  previous  to  the  ploughing,  &c. 

This  is  a  very  proper  period  to  manure,  trench,  or  plough  the 
ground  which  you  intend  to  plant  with  grape-vines  next  spring,  as 
observed  in  page  236  ;  leaving  it  as  rough  and  high  as  possible. 

In  the  Southern  states,  vineyards  may  now  be  planted,  vines 
pruned  and  propagated  by  layers  and  cuttings,  and  every  thing  else 
done  in  that  way,  as  directed  in  March  for  the  middle  and  eastern 
states. 


*ov.]  555 

THE  NURSERY. 

Transplanting. 

ALL  the  principal  nursery  transplanting,  should  be  finished  as 
early  in  this  month  as  possible,  in  order  that  the  plants  may  have 
time  to  push  out  new  fibres  before  the  frosts  set  in  ;  for  when  plant- 
ed at  a  late  period,  they  seldom' put  out  fibres  before  spring,  and 
have  to  live  principally  on  their  own  substance  during  winter,  which 
greatly  weakens  them.  However,  where  that  cannot  be  conveniently 
done,  and  that  necessity  requires  it,  you  may  continue  to  transplant 
all  kinds  of  hardy  trees  and  shrubs,  while  the  ground  continues 
open. 

Protecting  Seedlings  and  Tender  Plants. 

In  the  early  part  of  the  month,  you  should  sift  some  dry,  fresh 
earth,  over  the  seedling  pines,  arising  from  the  seed  sown  last 
spring,  so  as  to  nearly  reach  the  foliage,  in  order  to  protect  their  yet 
tender  stems  from  the  inclemency  of  the  approaching  season  ;  and 
immediately  on  the  setting  in  of  hard  frost,  spread  some  dry  straw, 
fern,  leaves  of  trees,  or  other  light  covering,  thinly  over  the  beds,  to 
afford  additional  protection  and  in  some  measure  to  prevent  the 
frost  from  entering  the  ground  as  deep  as  it  otherwise  might:  for, 
without  the  above  care,  many  of  the  plants  would  be  spewed  up  by 
the  frost,  and  most  of  them  be  destroyed  by  the  dry  parching  winds 
of  the  ensuing  spring.  Observe  that  the  covering  must  be  light,  or 
that  it  be  supported  above  the  plants  by  some  means,  or  a  serious 
injury  may  accrue  by  its  rotting  the  foliage,  &c. 

The  top  covering  is  not  necessary,  except  when  the  winter  frosts 
are  severe  ;  but  sifting  earth  between  and  among  the  plants,  so  as 
nearly  to  come  up  to  the  leaves,  will  be  of  use  in  every  climate  and 
country  ;  and  not  only  to  pine  and  fir  seedlings,  but  to  every  other 
sort  that  are  subject,  from  thair  diminutive  first  years  growth,  to  be 
thrown  out  of  the  earth  by  frost,  or  injured  by  drought. 

Any  kinJs  of  sjedlings  that  are  rather  tender,  should  have  hoop 
arches  made  over  the  beds,  and  on  the  approach  of  severe  frosts, 
thick  mats,  &c.  laid  on  these  for  the  protection  of  the  plants. 

All  hardy  plants  in  pots  should  now  be  removed,  to  where  they  can 
have  sufficient  protection  in  severe  weather ;  for  if  left  fully  exposed  to 
the  frost,  the  plants  will  not  only  be  injured,  but  the  pots  burst  by 
the  expansion  of  the  earth  and  water. 

Pots  containing  tolerably  large  and  hardy  exotic  plants,  may  be 
plunged  to  their  rims  in  a  warm  border,  and  covered  six  or  eight  inches 
deep  over  their  edges,  with  tanners  bark,  leaves  of  trees,  long  litter, 
&c.  which  will  considerably  preserve  the  roots  of  the  plants.  But 
the  more  curious  kinds  of  hardy  evergreens  and  other  plants  in 
pots,  should  now  be  removed  into  the  green  house,  or  into  garden 
frames,  with  glasses  and  other  covering,  the  more  effectually  tQ 
protect  them. 


556  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [NOV. 


Digging  between  the  Nursery  Roivs. 

You  should  now  continue  to  dig  the  ground  between  all  such 
trees  and  shrubs,  as  are  to  remain  another  year  in  the  nursery 
rows;  this  will  destroy  the  weeds,  improve  the  plants,  and  add 
neatness  to  the  whole  during  winter  and  spring. 

Care  of  neiv-planted  Trees,  Sec. 

Stake  and  tie  up  all  new  planted  trees,  that  are  in  open  exposures, 
in  order  to  prevent  their  being  rocked  about  by  the  winds,  than 
which  there  is  nothing  more  injurious  to  them. 

Lay  light  litter  of  some  kind,  a  good  thickness,  over  the  roots  of 
the  more  tender  and  choice  kinds  of  trees  and  shrubs,  to  protect  them 
from  frost ;  this  will  be  of  considerable  service  and  encourage  them 
to  shoot  vigorously  in  spring. 

Pruning  Trees  and  Shrubs. 

You  may  now  reduce  to  proper  form,  any  hardy  forest  or  orna- 
mental trees,  flowering  shrubs,  Sec.  cutting  out  any  disorderly  or 
straggling  branches,  and  trimming  up  the  stems  of  such  as  require 
it.  But  the  more  tender  sorts  should  not  be  pruned  till  spring. 

Preparations  for  making  New  Plantations. 

Continue  to  dig  and  trench  the  ground,  or  to  plough  it  extremely 
deep,  where  you  intend  making  new  plantations  in  spring,  by  which 
it  will  be  greatly  improved,  and  your  business  then  forwarded. 

Where  dung  is  wanted,  it  should  be  given  previous  to  the 
digging,  Sec.  and  advantage  ought  to  be  taken  of  dry  weather,  to 
carry  it  in  and  spread  it  on  the  ground.  It  will  be  much  better  to 
give  it  at  this  season,  than  immediately  before  planting,  as  it  will 
have  more  time  to  incorporate  with  the  earth,  and  to  be  deprived  of 
its  rancid  qualities. 


THE  PLEASURE,  OR  FLOWER-GARDEN. 

Planting  Tulip-,  Hyacinth,  Anemone,  and  Ranunculus  roots. 

THIS  is  still  a  very  proper  time  to  plant  the  roots  of  tulips,  hya- 
cinths, anemones,  and  ranunculuses,  but  the  earlier  in  the  month 
it  can  be  done  the  better;  for  it  is  a  fact  well  known  to  every  expe- 
rienced florist,  that  bulbous  and  tuberous  roots,  which  have  time  to 
emit  and  form  fibres  before  winter,  are  much  less  liable  to  be  injured 
by  frost,  than  those  which  are  planted  late,  and  consequently  lie 


KOV.]  FLOWER-GARDEN.  557 

during  that  season  in  an  inactive  state.  Having  in  the  Flower-Gar- 
den for  October,  given  ample  instructions  for  the  performance  of  this 
work,  I  refer  you  thereto,  in  order  to  avqid  unnecessary  repetition. 

Protecting  Tulip,  Hyacinth,  Anemone,  and  Ranunculus  roots. 

As  it  is  not  unfrequent  in  the  eastern  and  middle  states,  for  hard 
frost  to  set  in  towards  the  latter  end  of  this  month,  you  should  pre- 
vious thereto,  lay  a  good  lining  of  fresh  tanners  bark,  horse  dung, 
leaves  of  trees,  or  dry  straw,  round  the  outsides  of  the  beds  contain- 
ing your  choice  hyacinths,  anemones  and  ranunculuses;  this  should 
be  quite  as  high  as  the  upper  parts  of  the  surrounding  frames,  and 
of  a  sufficient  body  to  keep  the  frost  effectually  from  penetrating  j;i 
at  the  sides,  &c.  Tulips  will  only  require  to  lay  a  light  covering  of 
any  kind  over  and  around  the  beds,  such  as  straw,  fern,  leaves,  &c. 
iar  although  the  frost  will  not  kill  the  roots,  yet  by  slightly  protect- 
ing them  therefrom,  the  flowers  will  blow  much  stronger  and  more 
perfect  than  they  otherwise  would. 

Hyacinths,  though  very  hardy,  will  also  be  greatly  improved  in 
their  flowers,  by  protecting  the  bulbs  in  winter  from  severe  frosts, 
which  may  be  affected  by  laying  boards  and  mats  over  the  frames  in 
which  the  finest  sorts  are  planted ;  but  these  should  be  taken  off 
every  mild  day,  or  when  the  sun  is  so  powerful  as  to  prevent  an 
accumulation  of  frost  in  the  beds.  The  less  valuable,  and  common 
sorts,  may  be  protected  as  directed  for  tulips  ;  any  kind  of  light  cover- 
ing will  be  of  use,  and  indeed  they  often  flower  very  well  without  it. 

Two  inches  deep  of  one  or  two  years  old  tanner's  bark,  if  laid 
over  your  beds  of  tulips,  hyacinths,  polyanthus-narcissus,  Set.  in  the 
open  ground,  will  afford  the  roots  considerable  protection ;  but  be 
cautious  not  to  use  for  this  purpose,  new  or  fresh  tan  from  the 
vats,  as  the  astringent  juice  thereof  would  work  down  to  the  roots, 
and  do  them  much  more  injury  than  the  entire  omission  of  cover- 
ing, or  of  affording  them  any  manner  of  protection. 

Ranunculuses  and  anemones  being  much  more  tender  than  tulips 
or  hyacinths,  will  require  in  severe  frost,  a  good  effectual  covering 
of  glasses,  mats,  and  boards  ;  or  in  default  of  glasses,  mats  and 
boards  only,  or  any  other  suitable  protection.  This  covering  is  to  be 
supported  by  the  frames  surrounding  the  beds  wherein  the  roots 
are  planted,  and  it  must  be  taken  off  every  mild  day,  while  there  is 
po  danger  of  the  beds  accumulating  frost,  in  order  to  ventilate  and 
sufficiently  air  the  plants  that  are  up,  so  that  they  may  neither  be 
drawn  too  much,  the  foliage  turn  yellow,  nor  the  roots  become 
mouldy.  But  particular  care  must  be  taken  to  place  the  covering 
on  again,  as  soon  as  the  day  becomes  cold  and  before  the  beds  begin 
to  freeze.  The  ranunculuses  are  somewhat  more  tender  than  the 
anemones,  and  will  require  a  proportional  protection. 

Planting  -various  kinds  of  Bulbous  and  Tuberous  Flower  Roots. 

You  may  still  continue  to  plant  the  various  kinds  of  bulbous  and 
tuberous  flower-roots,  as  directed  in  page  533,  but  the  earlier  in  the 
tnonth  that  you  can  get  this  accomplished,  the  better. 


558  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [NOV. 


'/'•  ••;:>•'.  Planting  PsrcnuUu  ^;:d  Biennial  Flower  Ro.ots. 

Where  omitted  in  the  preceding -months,  you  should  as  early  in 
this  as  possible,  divide  (where  necessary)  and  transplant  the  various 
kinds  of  hardy  perennial  and  biennial  fibrous-rooted  plants,  agreea- 
bly to  the  directions  given  in  pages  493,  and  535. 

jiurieulaS)  Polyanthuses,  Carnations,  and  Primroses,  &c. 

The  pots  containing  your  choice  auriculas,  polyanthuses,.carna^ 
tions,  and  double  primroses,  should  immediately  previous  to  the 
setting  in  of  hard  frost,  be  plunged  to  their  rims  close  together  in  a 
garden-frame,  and  there  defended  from  heavy  rains  and  severe  frost, 
by  putting  on  the  glasses  and  a  suitable  covering  of  mats,  &c.  occa- 
sionally, according  to  the  necessity  of  the  case.  But  observe  that 
as  all  these  kinds  are  of  a  hardy  nature,  they  must  be  fully  exposed 
to  the  weather  every  day  that  is  tolerably  mild  and  dry,  and  even  at 
night  until  the  frost  becomes  rather  rigorous.  However,  it  will  be 
proper  to  line  the  outside  of  the  frame,  as  directed  in  page  557,  for 
ranunculuses  and  anemones,  the  better  to  keep  out  the  most  severe 
frosts  of  the  winter;  for  when  properly  protected,  and  not  drawn  or 
forced  too  much,  they  always  flower  better  than  when  cut  up  by 
severe  weather. 

Where  there  is  not  the  convenience  of  glasses,  mats  and  boards 
may  be  laid  over  the  frame  ;  or,  if  no  frame,  the  pots  may  be 
plunged  close  together  in  a  raised  bed  of  dry  soil,  or  tan,  in  a  warm 
situation,  and  low  arches  made  of  old  cask  hoops,  or  the  like,  erect- 
ed over  them,  on  which  to  lay  thick  mats  in  wet  or  frosty  weather. 
But  in  February,  and  early  in  March,  while  the  frost  is  in  the 
ground,  or  the  leaves  in  a  frozen  state,  and  especially  if  they  had 
been  covered  with  snow,  you  must  be  particular  not  to  expose  them 
to  a  hot  sun,  which  would  be  almost  certain  death  to  them. 

Double  Daisies. 

The  beds  wherein  were  planted  your  double  daisies,  &c.  as  direct- 
ed in  October,  page  535,  should  towards  the  latter  end  of  this  month, 
or  when  the  frost  is  likely  to  become  severe,  be  protected  occasion- 
ally therefrom,  by  a  covering  of  mats,  or  when  very  severe,  boards 
and  mats,  but  let  them  have  the  benefit  of  the  air  as  long,  and  as 
often  as  the  weather  is  mild  ;  observing  always  to  defend  them  from 
heavy  rains  and  snow,  either  of  which  would  have  a  tendency  to  rot 
and  melt  them  away. 

Daisies  will  survive  the  winter  in  a  warm  border,  covered  with  a 
light  coat  cf  clean  straw,  which  should  be  taken  off  and  laid  on  occa- 
sionally in  mild  weather,  to  air  and  harden  the  plants ;  but  these 
will  not  blow  as  well  nor  as  early  in  spring,  as  those  taken  better 
care  of. 

The  daisies  which  were  potted  in  September  or  October  with  a 
view  to  force  them  in  winter,  should  be  particularly  attended  to 
during  the  whole  of  this  month,  in  order  to  strengthen  and  encourage 


NOV.]  FLOWER-GARDEN.  559 

their  growth.  But  if  the  potting  of  them  were  emitted,  it  should  he 
done  in  the  bcginniug  of  this  month  ;  selecting  for  that  purpose  the 
largest  and  best  plants,  and  carefully  removing  them  with  good 
balls  of  earth  round  the  roots. 

Protecting  Seedling  Bulbs. 

You  should  now  plunge  the  pots  or  boxes  in  which  you  sowed  the 
seeds  of  bulbous-rooted  flowering  plants,  and  also  those  containing 
the  one  or  two  year  old  seedling  bulbs,  op  to  their  rims,  or  edges, 
in  a  raised  bank  of  light,  dry  earth,  or  you  may  set  them  on  the 
bank,  and  fill  the  spaces  between  them  with  tanner's  bark,  or  leaves 
of  trees,  well  crammed  in  :  then  on  ihe  approach  of  severe  frost, 
cover  them  all  over  with  dry  straw,  or  peas-haulm,  which  is  to  be 
taken  off  occasionally  in  mild  dry  weather  and  aired,  in  order  to 
prevent  its  getting  mouldy,  and  communicating  the  disorder  to  the 
seeds  or  roots. 

Stbck'giltyflvtDer*  and  Wallflowers. 

Your  double  stock-gillyflowers  and  wallflowers,  in  pots,  should 
now  be  either  taken  into  the  green-house,  or  warm,  close  rooms,  or 
plunged  to  their  rims  in  a  dry,  warm  exposure,  surrounded  with  a. 
deep  garden  frame,  where  they  may  be  protected  during  win- 
ter* These  plants  being  tolerably  hardy,  will  keep  well  by  a 
very  slight  protection  of  boards  and  mats,  or  boards  covered  with 
straw,  or  other  litter,  when  the  frost  is  severe  :  they  will  seldom  be 
injured  before  February,  but  a  warm  sun  about  the  end  of  that  month, 
if  suffered  to  shine  on  them  whilst  the  leaves  or  stems  are  in  a  fro- 
zen state,  would  totally  destroy  them. 

It  would  be  of  additional  advantage  to  lay  three  or  four  inches 
of  old  tanner's  bark  over  the  surface  of  the  pots,  the  better  to  pre- 
serve the  roots  from  the  frost.  The  plants  must  be  aired  occasion- 
ally in  mild  weather,  for  if  kept  too  closely  covered,  they  would  be- 
come blanched,  weak,  and  tender,  and  lose  that  robust  growth  so 
necessary  to  a  good  bloom  of  flowers. 

Planting  Bulbous  roots  in  Pots  and  Glasses. 

You  may  continue  to  plant  the  various  kinds  of  ear*y  flowering- 
bulbs  in  pots,  as  directed  in  page  536,  but  the  earlier  in  the  month 
that  this  is  done,  the  sooner  you  may  expect  them  to  flower.  The 
pots  are  then  to  be  placed  either  in  a  warm  room,  where  there  .is 
plenty  of  light,  or  in  garden-frames,  and  treated  as  directed  last 
month.  Some  of  them  may  be  immediately  placed  in  the  hot-house, 
or  in  a  forcing  frame,  to  be  forced  into  an  early  bloom  for  the  deco- 
ration of  rooms,  windows,  &c.  and  others  placed  in  the  green-house 
for  a  succession. 

The  early  part  of  this  month  is  still  a  very  proper  time  to  set  the 
bulbs  of  early  tulips,  hyacinths,  polyanthus-narcissus,  jonquils,  dwarf 
Persian  isis,  &c,  in  bulb-glasses  filled  with  water,  which  should 


560  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [NOV. 

never  be  sulTered  to  come  higher  round  the  roots  than  about  the 
eighth  of  an  inch,  replenishing  the  water  occasionally  as  it  evapo- 
rates, so  that  it  may  just  touch  the  bottom  of  the  bulbs.  Some 
of  the  glasses  may  be  immediately  placed  in  the  hot-house  for  an 
early  bloom,  the  others  to  be  treated  as  directed  in  page  536. 

Taking  ufi  and  Preserving  the  roots  of  Tuberoses,  and  Scarlet 
Amaryllises,  &C. 

As  soon  in  this  month  as  you  observe  the  frost  to  injure  the 
foliage  of  your  tuberoses  and  jacobsea  lilies  or  scarlet  amaryllises, 
and  other  very  tender  bulbs,  which  generally  lie  dormant  in  winter, 
take,  up  the  roots  and  spread  them  in  a  warm  room,  where  they 
will  be  perfectly  secure  from  frost,  if  in  a  stove-room  the  better; 
in  the  course  of  eight  or  ten  days,  divest  them  of  the  decayed  foliage 
and  root  fibres,  and  continue  them  spread  as  before  till  well  dried, 
always  taking  care  to  preserve  them  from  frost ;  when  sufficiently 
dry  pack  them  up  in  small  boxes,  in  very  dry  saw-dust,  chaff,  dry 
moss,  or  the  like,  and  then  place  the  boxes,  in  some  very  warm 
room  to  remain  during  winter,  where  they  can  be  effectually  secure 
from  frost,  the  least  touch  of  which  would  totally  destroy  the  roots. 

Dressing  the  Beds  and  Borders,  &c. 

The  beds  of  young  succession  or  other  flower-bulbs,  which  were 
not  disturbed  in  the  present  year,  should  now  be  carefully  wed,  raked 
over,  and  if  any  moss  appears  thereon,  it  ought  to  be  picked  off; 
after  which  lay  an  inch  or  two,  as  may  be  deemed  necessary,  of 
good  light  compost  all  over  the  beds ;  this  will  assist  in  defending 
the  roots  from  frost,  and  add  much  to  their  health  and  vigour  in  the 
ensuing  spring. 

Clear  the  beds,  borders,  and  other  compartments,  from  fallen 
leaves  of  trees,  and  the  dead  stalks  of  annual  and  other  plants ;  pull- 
ing up  the  annuals  by  the  roots,  as  they  never  flower  again,  and  cut- 
ting down  the  decayed  perennials  to  the  ground.  After  this,  hoe 
and  clear  the  ground  from  all  manner  of  weeds,  and  where  there 
are  no  bulbs  planted,  slightly  dig  the  ground  without  injuring  any 
plants  growing  therein,  and  rake  the  surface  smooth  and  even.  This 
will  prepare  the  borders,  Sec.  for  the  reception  of  other  plants,  and 
give  a  neat  and  becoming  appearancee  to  the  whole  during  winter. 

Dig  and  neatly  rake  all  the  shrubbery  compartments,  especially 
those  contiguous  to  the  principal  walks,  excepting  such  as  are  laid 
down  with  grass,  or  wilderness  plantations,  this  will  destroy  weeds, 
enliven  the  prospect,  and  encourage  the  growth  of  the  shrubs. 

Planting  Forest  and  Ornamental  Tress  and  Shrubs. 

All  kinds  of  hardy  trees  and  shrubs,  especially  the  deciduous  sorts, 
may  be  planted,  in  dry  soil,  any  time  this  month,  while  the  weather 
continues  mild,  but  the  earlier  in  it  that  this  is  done  the  better.  For 
an  account  of  the  sorts,  see  page  293,  or  the  general  catalogues  ; 


NOV.]  FLOWER-GARDEN.  561 

for  designes  in  ornamental  planting,  see  page  55,  &c.  and  for  the 
method  of  planting,  see  page  293. 

Transplanting  Large  Trees,  £cc. 

It  frequently  happens  that  people  are  desirous  of  removing  large 
favourite  trees  or  shrubs,  from  one  place  to  another,  and  as  this  is 
the  best  time  to  prepare  for  that  business,  I  refer  you  for  the  ne- 
cessary information  to  page  225. 

Prune  Flowering-Shrubs,  £jfc. 

You  may  now  prune  and  reduce  into  due  form,  any  hardy  flower- 
ing shrubs,  and  forest-trees,  whether  evergreen  or  deciduous ;  but 
the  more  tender  sorts  ought  not  to  be  pruned  till  spring.  For  the 
method  of  doing  which,  seepage  157. 

Planting  and  Plashing  Hedges. 

Ground  hedges  of  haw-thorn,  beech,  hornbeam,  honey-locust,  or 
any  other  hardy  kinds  of  deciduous  plants,  may  be  made  any  time 
in  this  month,  while  the  weather  continues  open.  For  ample  in* 
structions  on  this  subject,  see  page  252,  8cc. 

Old  hedges  which  are  overgrown  and  thin,  may  now  be  plashed, 
or  cut  down,  as  directed  in  page  260. 

Ordinary   Wcrk. 

Rake  and  carry  away  out  of  the  walks,  borders,  and  lawns,  the 
fallen  leaves  of  trees  and  other  rubbish  :  stake  and  tie  up  any  large 
new  planted  trees,  to  prevent  their  being  rocked  about  by  the  wind, 
and  lay  mulch,  long  litter,  or  leaves,  round  the  roots  of  such  as  are 
rather  tender,  to  protect  them  from  frost. 

Place  small  stakes  and  bass-mats,  or  long-drawn  straw,  bound 
around  such  plants  of  the  Hydrangea  hortensis,  Prunus  Lauro- 
cerassus,  China  and  Otaheite  roses,  Sec.  as  you  have  planted  out  in 
warm  well-sheltered  borders.  Many  plants  that  are  commonly  kept 
in  Green-houses,  would  abide  during  winter  in  the  open  ground,  if 
thus  protected  ;  but  this  should  not  be  done  till  the  keen  frosts  are 
just  commencing. 

Dress  gravel-walks,  and  mow  grass-walks  and  lawns,  after  which 
roll  them  with  a  heavy  roller,  which  will  render  the  surface  firm, 
smooth  and  neat  during  winter.  Observe  to  do  this  work  in  dry 
open  weather.  Some  people  break  up  their  gravel  walks  at  this 
season,  and  throw  them  in  ridges  to  lie  so  all  winter,  under  an  idea 
of  destroying  weeds,  &c.  but  as  this  renders  walks  unserviceable  at 
a  time  when  a  foot  can  scarcely  be  set  with  pleasure  on  any  other 
part  of  the  ground,  and  that  a  turning  in  spring  would  answer  the 
end  proposed,  this  practice  ought  to  be  abandoned. 

Lay  roses  and  other  shrubs  for  propagation,  and  in  the  early  part 
$f  the  month,  take  off  well  rooted  layers,  and  dig  up  suckers  of  de* 

4  c 


562  THE  GREEN-HOUSE.  [NOV. 

sirable  kinds,  which  plant  immediately  where  wanted,  or  into  nur- 
sery-rows to  obtain  age  and  strength. 

Turn  your  compost  heaps  of  every  kind,  and  spread  them  so  thin 
that  the  frosts  may  penetrate  to  the  very  bottoms  of  them ;  let  the 
lumps  be  well  broken,  and  ull  parts  properly  mixed. 

Provide  materials  and  make  new  composts,  agreeably  to  the  direc- 
tions given  in  the  preceding  part  of  this  work,  in  order  to  have  them 
ready  for  use  in  the  ensuing  year;  for  the  longer  they  are  in  a  state 
of  preparation,  and  the  more  effectually  incorporated,  the  better  will 
all  sorts  thrive  which  may  be  planted  therein. 


THE  GREEN-HOUSE. 

IN  the  beginning  of  this  month,  all  the  hardy  exotic  plants  which 
have  been  permitted  to  remain  abroad  till  this  time,  but  which  re- 
quire protection  in  winter,  should  be  removed  into  the  Green- 
House,  or  into  the  other  places  destined  for  their  preservation.  In 
the  middle  states,  the  Viburnum  Tinus,  Hydrangea  hortensis,  Pru- 
nus  Lauro-Cerassus,  Magnolia  grandifiora,  China  and  Otahfite 
roses,  Lagerstrcemia  indica,  Daphne  odora,  Aucuba  japonica,  double 
flowering  pomegranate,  double  stocks  and  wallflowers,  Cycla- 
men, Belladonna  and  Guernsey  lilies,  with  several  other  shrubby 
and  herbaceous  kinds,  will  seldom  suffer  by  being  left  out  before  the 
middle  of  this  month,  but  leaving  them  much  longer  unprotected 
would  be  imprudent,  unless  your  stock  is  so  numerous  that  you 
wish  to  try  experiments  on  their  hardiness. 

In  mild  weather  your  Green-House  plants  should  have  plenty  of 
free  air  admitted  to  them  every  day,  by  opening  the  glasses,  Sec. 
always  observing  to  close  the  house  in  due  time  in  the  afternoon, 
and  in  wet  or  frosty  weather:  even  in  very  severe  weather, 
you  may  happen  to  find  an  hour  or  two  in  the  middle  of  the  day  in 
which  to  slide  down  the  upper  lights,  to  admit  fresh  air,  and  suffer 
the  foul  to  pass  out ;  this  may  be  often  done  when  it  would  be  quite 
imprudent  to  raise  the  lower  sashes.  But  if  a  very  rigorous  frost 
should  set  in  towards  the  latter  end  of  the  month,  it  may  be  neces- 
sary to  make  a  fire  in  the  evening,  to  prevent  its  penetrating  into 
the  house  ;  however,  this  should  not  be  resorted  to  while  you  can  keep 
out  the  frost  by  means  of  good  shetters  or  by  fastening  mats  in  front 
of  the  windows  at  night ;  for  too  much  heat  at  any  time,  but  parti- 
cularly in  the  early  part  of  the  season,  is  of  serious  injury  to  the 
Green-House  plants,  which  require  nothing  more  than  merely  to  be 
kept  from  frost. 

Occasional,  but  gentle  waterings,  must  now  be  given  to  all  the 
plants ;  some  will  require  to  be  watered  three  times  a  week,  while 
others,  particularly  the  succulent  kinds,  will  not  need  it  more  than 
a  little  once  a  week;  but  as  the  state  of  the  .weather,  sometimes 
makes  a  very  material  difference  in  this,  there  is  no  saying  how 


NOV.]  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  563 

often,  or  how  much  at  a  time,  ought  to  be  administered ;  however 
it  will  be  safer  to  give  a  little  and  often,  than  too  much  at  a  time, 
which  should  now  be  administered  in  the  forenoon  of  fine  days, 
that  the  damp  may  pass  off  before  the  windows  are  shut,  lest  the 
steam  occasioned  thereby  might  create  a  mouldiness,  and  injure  the 
plants. 

Pick  off  all  decayed  leaves  from  the  plants,  and  throw  them  out 
of  the  house ;  for  if  they  are  suffered  to  remain  in  it,  they  will  rot 
and  infect  the  air,  which  foul  effluvia  being  imbibed  by  the  plants, 
will  infect  them  also,  and  bring  on  disease  and  vermin. 

Examine  the  tubs  and  pots  occasionally,  and  if  the  earth  cakes  or 
binds  at  top,  loosen  it  to  a  moderate  depth  ;  and  where  decayed 
branches  or  shoots  occur,  prune  them  off  as  soon  as  observed,  and 
cast  them  out  of  the  house 

The  myrtles  and  other  plants  which  are  in  frames,  or  pits,  must 
now  be  duly  attended  to,  in  like  manner  as  those  in  the  Green- 
House.  The  frames  or  pits,  to  the  full  height  of  the  glasses,  must 
be  lined  round  with  horse-dung;,  leaves,  straw,  fern  or  the  like,  to 
keep  the  frost  from  penetrating  in  at  the  sides  and  ends  ;  the  plants 
must  have  plenty  of  fresh  air  at  all  favourable  opportunities,  and  be 
effectually  protected  at  night  and  in  frosty  weather,  by  laying  a  suf- 
ficient covering  of  mats,  straw,  boards,  Sec.  over  the  glasses,  observ- 
ing not  to  deprive  them  of  the  benefit  of  light  but  while  absolute 
necessity  requires  it. 

Preserving  tender  Bulbs,  i3c. 

As  some  persons  who  have  not  the  convenience  of  a  Hot-house,  may 
be  desirous  of  having  some  tender  exotic  bulbous  and  tuberous  rooted 
plants,  such  as  Crinums,  Pancratiums,  Arums,  Amomum  Zinziber, 
or  true  ginger,  8cc.  These  and  such  like  roots,  may  in  the  begin- 
ning of  this  month,  be  taken  up  and  carefully  dried  as  you  do  tube- 
roses, and  then  packed  up  in  very  dry  sand,  or  in  extremely  dry 
moss,  observing  to  keep  them  during  winter  completely  out  of  the 
reach  of  frost  or  moisture.  About  the  beginning  or  middle  of  April, 
you  may  plant  them  in  pots,  which  should  be  plunged  in  a  tempe- 
rate hot- bed,  and  give  the  roots  but  very  little  water  till  they  pro- 
duce foliage  and  are  growing  freely  :  towards  the  latter  end  of  May 
the  pots  may  be  placed  in  the  open  air,  to  remain  till  the  latter  end 
of  September,  when  they  should  be  taken  in,  and  placed  in  the 
Green-House,  or  in  the  windows  of  some  warm  room  till  this  time ; 
then  to  be  treated  as  above.  Or  you  may  keep  up  the  roots  till  the 
middle  of  May,  anil  then  plant  them  even  in  the  open  ground  ;  after 
which  they  will  grow  considerably  before  autumn,  but  not  flower 
quite  as  strong  as  if  properly  kept  in  a  Hot-house. 


THE  HOT-HOUSE. 

IT  is  to  be  presumed  that  your  tan-pits  have  been  renewed,  and 
all  your  pots  containing  pine  and  other  tender  plants  duly  arrang- 


564  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  [NOV. 

ed  in  the  course  of  the  last  and  preceding  month,  as  then  directed  ; 
but  should  it  happen  by  any  disappointment,  that  this  could  not  have 
been  effected,  it  ought  on  ho  account  to  be  omitted  in  the  first  week 
of  this  month. 

As  the  cold  weather  advances,  the  fires  in  the  stove  should  be  in- 
creased proportionably,  being  careful  not  to  overheat  the  air,  lest 
thereby  the  plants  shoot  too  freely,  which  would  be  a  serious  injury  to 
them  at  this  season,  by  rendering  them  more  tender, and  consequently 
less  able  to  endure  the  vicissitudes  of  the  ensuing  winter;  besides, 
the  most  forward  of  the  pine-plants  might  start  to  fruit,  which 
would  ruin  all  your  expectations :  nor  should  the  air  be  kept  too 
cold,  that  is,  the  spirits  in  the  thermometer  of  Fahrenheit,  suffered 
to  get  lower  night  or  day  than  52  or  54  degrees,  lest  the  pines  be- 
come stunted,  and  many  of  the  curious  exotics  lose  their  leaves, 
and  perhaps  their  extreme  parts  decay,  for  want  of  that  degree  of 
heat  so  necessary  and  so  congenial  to  their  constitutions. 

Give  water  occasionally  to  such  plants  as  want  it,  in  moderate 
proportions,  and  not  too  much  at  a  time,  for  they  cannot  now  dis- 
charge it  so  freely  as  in  summer ;  observing  that  it  stands  at  least 
twenty-four  hours  in  the  stove  before"  you  use  it,  to  acquire  the 
same  degree  of  heat  as  the  air  of  the  house. 

Fresh  air  must  be  admitted  into  the  house  every  mild  and  warm 
day,  while  the  weather  continues  open,  but  especially  when  the  ther- 
mometer is  above  sixty-two  or  three  degrees  ;  you  must  be  atten- 
tive however,  to  close  the  house  immediately  on  any  sudden  unfa- 
vourable change  of  weather,  and  always  sufficiently  early  in  the  af- 
ternoon to  retain  a  considerable  warmth  in  the  house  during  the 
night,  which  will  sometimes  in  the  early  part  of  the  month,  super- 
cede  the  necessity  of  fire,  or  at  least  of  but  very  little. 

The  art  of  managing  tender  exotic  plants,  consists  principally  in 
keeping  the  air  of  the  Stove  or  Hot-house,  in  a  proper  and  regular 
temperature  of  heat,  in  duly  proportioning  the  quantity  of  water  to 
,  the  different  natures  and  necessities  of  the  various  kinds  of  plants, 
in  judiciously  admitting  a  sufficiency  of  air  at  suitable  opportunities, 
and  in  keeping  the  bark-pits  in  a  proper  state  of  fermentation  ;  all 
which  must  be  duly  attended  to,  or  the  desired  success  cannot  be 
expected. 

Pick  off  constantly  all  the  decayed  leaves  from  the  plants,  and 
throw  them  out  of  the  house;  clean  their  leaves  and  stems  from 
filth,  which  many  kinds  are  subject  to  contract ;  wash  off  and  de- 
stroy all  insects  which  infest  any  of  them,  frequently  stir  the  surface 
earth  in  the  pots,  to  keep  it  from  contracting  moss,  Sec.  and  keep 
all  the  house  clean,  sweet,  and  in  neat  order. 

Care  of  Young  Succession  Pines^  and  other  Plants. 

The  young  pines  or  other  plants  Hn  succession  houses  must  have 
the  same  care  as  above ;  and  those  in  bark -beds  under  garden- 
frames  are  to  be  diligently  attended  to ;  the  outside  lining  must  be 
kept  to  the  full  height  of  the  frame  all  around,  and  in  a  regular  and 
constant  state  of  warmth  ;  the  glasses  must  be  carefully  and  suffi- 
ciently covered  every  night,  and  by  day  in  a  very  severe  frost,  but 


PEC.]  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.       t  565 

the  plants  should  have  as  much  light  as  possible,  and  air  whenever 
it  catfbe  given  with  safety  :  decayed  leaves  must  constantly  be  pick- 
ed off,  and  taken  out  of  the  frame,  but  watering  will  seldom  be  ne- 
cessary at  this  season,  as  the  steam  arising  from  the  bed  will  occa- 
sion a  moist  atmosphere  about  the  plants.  Observe  that  the  more 
succulent  kinds,  will  not  keep  as  well  in  such  a  place,  as  in  a  dry- 
stove,  or  on  shelves  in  the  Hot-house. 

The  garden  pits  erected  with  brick  and  furnished  with  flues,  in 
which  you  have  tender  exotic  plants,  must  also  have  a  lining  of  hot 
dung  placed  round  them  to  their  full  height,  in  order  to  prevent  the 
frost  from  penetrating  in  through  the  wall ;  moderate  fires  must  be 
made  in  the  flues  every  evening,  and  in  severe  weather  to  keep  up 
the  internal  heat,  when  that  of  the  pit  is  found  not  to  be  sufficiently 
strong:  the  glasses  must  be  well  covered  with  mats,  Sec.  every 
night,  and  even  by  day  when  the  weather  is  cloudy  and  the  frost 
very  severe. 


DECEMBER. 


WORK  TO  BE  DONE  IN  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN. 

THIS  is  very  frequently  one  of  the  most  severe  of  our  winter 
months,  and  every  judicious  gardener  will  be  well  provided  against 
its  rigour,  by  having  all  his  frames  lined  round  as  directed  in  No- 
vember, and  being  well  supplied  with  the  necessary  mats  and  other 
covering.  If  this  provision  be  neglected,  he  may  be  taken,  as  it 
were  by  surprize,  and  in  one  or  two  nights,  lose  a  great  number  of 
valuable  plants. 

Should  the  weather  prove  mild,  and  the  ground  continue  open, 
in  the  beginning  of  the  month,  which  seldom  happen  in  the  middle 
or  eastern  states,  you  may  complete  any  work  recommended  to  be 
done  in  November,  and  then  unavoidably  omitted  ;  such  as  dressing 
asparagus  and  artichoke  beds,  taking  up  and  putting  into  a  state  of 
preservation,  cabbages,  turnips,  parsnips,  carrots,  beets,  celery,  en- 
dive, cardoons,  salsify,  scorzonera,  &c.  But  the  many  chances  that 
are  against  your  being  able  to  accomplish  this  work  in  December, 
ought  to  induce  you  to  double  your  diligence  in  November,  and 
complete  every  thing  in  due  season. 

Cauliflower  and  Cabbage  Plants. 

Every  mild  day  observe  to  uncover  your  cauliflower  plants  which 
arejunder  frames  and  glasses,  that  they  may  enjoy  the  free  air ; 


566  THE  KITGHEN-CARDEN.  [DEC. 


otherwise  they  will  draw  up  and  become  weak  :  constantly  pick 
off  all  decayed  leaves,  which  if  suffered  to  remain  on  would  be  very 
injurious  to  the  plants,  especially  if  it  should  happen,  as  it  frequently 
does  in  this  month,  that  the  weather  would  be  so  severe  as  to  ren- 
der it  imprudent  to  uncover  the  beds  for  several  days  successively  j 
for  when  these  decayed  leaves  rot,  they  emit  a  rancid  vapour,  which 
mixing  with  the  confined  air  of  the  beds,  renders  it  very  unwhole- 
some for  the  plants. 

When  it  is  not  sufe  to  take  off  the  lights  entirely,  in  the  middle 
of  the  day,  let  them  be  raised  upon  props  two  or  three  inches  at  the 
back  of  the  frames,  to  let  in  fresh  air  to  the  plants. 

The  glasses  must  be  covered  every  night  with  mats,  straw,  fern, 
or  some  other  long,  dry  litter,  and  even  in  the  day  time  when  the 
frost  is  very  rigorous  ;  but  no  opportunity  ought  to  be  missed  to 
admit  light  to  the  plants,  and  to  give  them  air  when  it  can  be  done 
with  safety.  The  frame  containing  them  must  be  carefully  lined  all 
round  the  outside,  as  directed  in  November,  lo  prevent  the  frost 
from  penetrating  in  at  the  sides  and  ends  thereof. 

Some  will  consider  this  rather  troublesome,  but  it  will  be  found 
much  less  so,  than  to  sow  the  seed  in  January  or  February,  and 
nurse,  and  once  or  twice  transplant  the  young  seedlings  during  the 
remainder  of  the  winter  and  spring  ;  besides,  the  autumn  sown 
plants  when  taken  proper  care  of,  will  produce  much  larger  and 
better  heads  than  those  sown  in  winter  or  spring,  and  be  earlier  and 
more  certain. 

The  early  Smyrna,  York,  sugar-loaf,  and  other  tender  kinds  of 
cabbage-plants,  require  exactly  the  same  treatment  as  the  cauli- 
flower, but  being  more  hardy  less  covering  will  be  necessary,  and 
more  air  may  with  safety  be  admitted.  There  is  nothing  more  in- 
jurious to  either,  than  to  be  kept  too  closely  covered  ;  therefore 
no  opportunity,  if  but  for  half  an  hour  at  a  time,  ought  to  be 
omitted  to  admit  light  and  air,  when  it  can  be  done  with  any  tole- 
rable degree  of  safety. 

The  Savoy,  flat  Dutch,  drum-head,  and  other  late  kinds,  will  keep 
when  planted  in  warm  borders,  with  very  little  protection  ;  arches 
made  of  old  hoops,  &c.  should  be  erected  over  them,  on  which  to 
lay  mats,  straw,  branches  of  evergreen  trees,  or  shrubs,  &c.  For 
further  particulars,  see  page  505. 

Care  of  Lettuce  Plants. 

The  care  of  lettuce  plants  being  the  same  now  as  in  the  ensuing 
month,  I  refer  you  for  the  necessary  instructions  to  page  10,  and 
also  to  page  504 


Small  Salladin 


Where  small  sallading,  such  as  cresses,  rape,  mustard,  lettuce, 
radish,  Sec.  is  required  at  this  season,  these  seeds  must  be  sown  in 
a  hot-bed,  protected  with  a  good  frame  and  glasses,  and  also  sum- 


DEC.]  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN.  557 

cient  covering  of  mats.  Sec.  but  care  must  be  taken  not  to  cover  the 
seeds  deeper  with  earth,  than  what  is  barely  sufficient  to  hide 
them. 

Keep  the  glasses  constantly  over  them,  and  admit  air  to  the  plants 
every  day  when  the  weather  is  mild,  by  raising  the  lights  a  little 
behind,  otherwise  they  will  be  apt  to  become  mouldy  and  de^ 
cay.  It  is  almost  unnecessary  to  say  that  the  glasses  must  be  kept 
well  covered  every  night,  and  even  in  the  day  time  during  extreme? 
ly  severe  weather. 

Mushrooms. 

Particular  care  must  now  be  taken  to  preserve  the  mushroom 
beds  from  frost  or  wet,  either  of  which  would  destroy  the  spawn, 
and  render  the  beds  unproductive.  They  must  consequently  be 
covered  with  a  sufficient  depth  of  dry  straw,  and  over  this  mats: 
after  heavy  rains  or  snow  they  should  be  examined,  and  if  you  find 
the  covering  next  the  earth  of  the  beds  wet,  take  it  totally  away  and 
immediately  replace  it  with  dry  straw.  Where  the  necessary  and 
proper  care  is  taken,  there  will  be  a  constant  supply  of  mushrooms 
for  the  table,  even  in  the  most  rigorous  seasons.  Observe  the  gene- 
ral directions  given  in  page  507,  Sec. 

Forcing  Asparagus. 

Hot-beds  may  now  be  made  for  forcing  asparagus.*  to  supply  the 
table  about  the  latter  end  of  January  ;  for  at  this  season,  it  will  be 
full  six  weeks  from  the  time  of  making  the  beds,  before  the  aspa- 
ragus will  be  fit  to  cut,  presuming  the  beds  to  be  kept  of  a  due  tem- 
perature of  heat.  For  the  method  of  making  and  managing  them, 
see  page  1 15,  kc. 

Ordinary    Work. 

If  the  weather  continues  open  carry  dung  into  the  quarters  of  the 
kitchen-garden,  spread  it,  and  trench  the  ground,  laying  it  in  high 
sloping  ridges  to  be  mellowed  by  the  frost,  &c. 

When  the  ground  is  frozen  that  it  cannot  be  dug,  cart  or  carry 
in  manure,  and  lay  it  down  in  convenient  places,  to  have  it  at 
hand  when  the  frost  goes  off;  repair  the  fences  of  the  garden  where 
necessary ;  if  you  have  any  seeds  remaining  in  their  pods  or  cap- 
sules, beat  or  rub  cut  and  clean  them,  so  as  to  be  ready  for  sow- 
ing when  wanted  ;  prepare  all  tools  which  may  be  necessary  in 
spring,  that  there  may  be  no  delay  when  the  season  is  favourable 
for  commencing  your  early  cropping. 

Provide  from  the  woods,  &c.  pea-sticks,  and  bean-poles,  of  every 
size ;  dress  and  point  them,  that  they  may  be  in  complete  rea- 
diness when  wanted ;  collect  all  your  old  sticks  and  poles  which 
are  yet  fit  for  use,  and  lay  them  with  the  new  ones  under  the  pro- 
tection of  some  shed,  to  prevent  their  rotting  by  wet,  &c. 


568  THE  FRUIT-GARDEN.  [DEC, 


SOUTHKUN    STATES. 

In  such  of  the  southern  states  as  have  but  very  slight  frosts  in 
winter,  you  may  in  addition  to  other  necessary  work,  so\v  on  warm 
borders  for  early  crops,  small  quantities  of  carrots,  parsneps,  onions* 
beets,  radish,  lettuce,  spinage,  and  parsley,  Sec.  earth  up  late  celery 
and  cardoons,  tie  up  endive  for  blanching,  and  plant  out  in  rows  up 
to  their  heads  such  of  the  cabbage  tribe  as  are  intended  for  seed, 
covering  their  heads  with  straw  if  found  necessary,  to  preserve  them 
from  frost  or  wet.  Take  care  to  set  each  kind  apart  by  itself,  and 
at  a  considerable  distance  from  any  other,  for  if  contiguous,  the 
farina  of  the  one  when  in  blossom,  would  impregnate  the  seeds  in 
the  ovaries  of  the  other,  whereby  the  whole  would  become  bastai> 
dized,  and  you  would  have  neither  kind  in  its  original  purity. 

Plant  early  Mazagan,  Lisbon,  long-pod,  and  Windsor  beans,  and 
sow  early-frame,  golden,  and  charleton  hotspur  peas;  earth  up 
the  crops  of  peas  and  beans,  which  were  sowed  in  the  preceding 
months,  as  they  advance  in  growth,  and  if  there  is  any  danger  to  be 
apprehended  from  frost,  cover  them  at  night  and  in  severe  weather 
•with  long  dry  straw,  which  can  be  conveniently  removed  when  a 
favourable  change  takes  place,  and  laid  on  again  when  found  neces- 
sary. 

Plant  out  garlick,  rocambole,  and  shallots,  likewise  large  onions, 
for  seed,  and  sow  as  directed  in  March,  the  seeds  of  rhubarb,  sea- 
kale,  skerrets,  alesanders,  dill,  and  such  other  kinds  of  seed  as  do 
not  vegetate  freely  when  kept  out  of  the  ground  till  spring. 


THE  FRUIT-GARDEN. 
Improving   the    Borders^   &c. 

YOU  may  now  carry  well-rotted  old  dung,  rich  earth,  or  com- 
post, and  spread  it  on  the  borders  in  which  are  planted  wall  or  espa- 
lier trees ;  this  will  protect  the  roots  during  winter ;  in  spring, 
when  dug  in,  it  will  add  new  vigour  to  the  trees,  and  the  advantage 
will  be  very  evident  in  the  ensuing  crops.  Standard  fruit-trees  of 
every  kind,  will  be  greatly  improved  by  similar  treatment,  espe- 
cially if  the  ground  is  become  poor,  or  any  way  exhausted. 

Protecting  the  roots  of  new-planted  Trees. 

In  the  early  part  of  this  month,  if  omitted  in  November,  you 
should  lay  wispy  dung,  straw,  or  long  litter  of  some  kind,  over  the 
roots  of  those  trees  which  were  planted  last  spring,  or  in  the  pre- 
ceding months,  to  prevent  the  frost  from  having  too  great  an  effect 
on  their  young  and  yet  tender  fibres  j  this  in  very  rigorous  seasons 


DEC.]  THE  FRUIT-GARDEN.  569 

often  does  considerable  injury  to  young  trees,  and  sometimes  lays 
the  foundation  of  diseases  which  ultimately  destroy  them. 

Figs  in  particular  will  require  this  attention,  and  besides,  the  tops 
and  stems  of  the  tender  kinds,  should  be  covered  with  mats,  or 
other  suitable  protection,  where  the  frosts  are  extremely  severe. 

Pruning  Afililes  and  Pears  on  Espaliers^  &c. 

Apples  and  pears  being  perfectly  hardy,  may  now  be  pruned  if 
the  weather  happens  to  be  mild,  agreeably  to  the  directions  given  in 
page  17  ;  but  if  this  is  not  deemed  necessary  on  account  ol  dispatch- 
ing business  when  it  can  conveniently  be  done,  it  will  be  rather  bet- 
ter to  defer  pruning  till  the  latter  end  of  February,  unless  you  do  it 
before  the  severe  frosts  set  in. 

As  to  the  pruning  of  stone  fruit-trees,  I  would  not  recommend  it 
to  be  done  in  the  middle  or  eastern  states  at  this  season,  for  the 
reasons  assigned  in  page  216,  See.  but  in  the  southern  states  it  may 
be  now  performed  with  the  greatest  safety. 

Gooseberries  and  currants  being  extremely  hardy,  may  be  pruned 
in  any  of  the  winter  months ;  but  where  it  is  intended  to  propagate 
the  best  kinds  from  the  cuttings,  it  will  not  be  adviseable  to  prune 
or  dress  them  when  the  ground  is  so  frozen  as  to  prevent  your  being 
able  to  plant  the  good  cuttings  taken  off  in  pruning. 

Other  necessary  Work. 

You  must  be  careful  to  keep  the  frost  out  of  the  apartments  where 
the  choice  winter  fruits  are  put  up,  for  should  any  of  them  get  fro- 
zen they  would  certainly  decay  soon  after,  and  rot  the  others  about 
them.  Examine  the  fruit  which  you  have  on  shelves  in  dry  warm 
cellars, .once  every  ten  days,  and  take  away  any  that  you  find  taint- 
ed:  continue  over. them  near  a  foot  thick  of  clean  dry  straw,  and 
secure  the  windows  and  doors  from  the  admission  of  frost. 

Take  off  all  moss  from  your  fruit-trees,  and  when  it  is  gathered, 
carry  it  quite  out  of  the  garden,  to  prevent  its  multiplying  by  seed, 
which  it  is  very  apt  to  do. 

Nail  or  tie  up  the  dangling  shoots  which  are  loose  on  walls  or  es- 
paliers, to  prevent  their  being  dashed  about  by  the  winds,  and  con- 
sequently their  bark  injured. 

Repair  all  your  decayed  espaliers,  or  prepare  stakes  and  other 
materials  for  so  doing  as  soon  as  the  frost  gets  out  of  the  ground. 

Make  or  provide  and  paint,  such  new  frame-work  trellises  as  you 
intend  to  erect  next  spring,  and  do  every  other  work  that  may  have 
a  tendency  to  forward  your  business  at  that  season. 

Prejiare  for  Forcing  Fruit-Trees. 

Towards  the  latter  end  of  this,  or  the  beginning  of  next  month, 
put  on  the  glasses  or  lights  on  your  fire-heat  forcing  frames,  such 
as  are  described  in  page  32,  and  immediately  prune  and  nail  up  the 
trees  in  regular  order,  if  not  done  before. 

4  D 


570  THE  ORCHARD.  [DEC. 

By  this  method  the  trees  will  not  be  so  sensible  of  the  sudden 
transition  from  the  depth  of  winter  to  spring,  when  you  kindle  fires, 
as  they  would  if  the  lights  were  not  now  put  on  ;  and  it  will  gradu- 
ally bring  your  trees  to  a  state  of  vegetation,  for  the  works  of  na- 
ture are  performed  by  degrees,  and  not  in  a  hurry.  For  general  in- 
formation respecting  the  constructing  of  forcing-frames  and  houses, 
of  every  kind,  and  the  methods  of  working  them,  see  the  Fruit- 
Garden  for  January,  &c. 

SOUTHERN    STATES. 

In  such  of  the  southern  states  as  have  not  severe  frost  in  winter, 
you  may  now  prune  apples,  pears,  plums,  cherries,  peaches,  necta- 
rines and  apricots  ;  quinces,  raspberries,  currants,  gooseberries,  and 
every  other  kind  of  fruit-tree,  the  orange  family  and  the  fig  ex- 
cepted.  You  may  also  plant  all  the  above,  and  any  other  sorts  with 
great  propriety  at  this  season,  excepting  the  orange  family  only. 
For  the  methods  of  pruning,  see  January,  and  of  planting,  see  March. 


THE  ORCHARD. 

APPLES  and  pear-trees  that  are  in  good  health,  may  now  be 
pruned  agreeably  to  the  directions  given  in  page  38,  &c.  to  which 
I  particularly  refer  you ;  but  it  will  be  better  to  defer  the  pruning 
of  stone-fruit  trees  to  February,  and  of  all  trees  that  are  in  a  bad 
state  of  health  to  the  beginning  of  March,  in  which  month,  (p.  216, 
&c.)  you  will  find  the  best  methods  of  treating  them  for  the  resto- 
ration of  their  health  and  vigour. 

Rub  and  scrape  off  moss  wherever  it  appears  on  your  fruit-trees, 
it  robs  them  of  their  nourishment,  prevents  their  free  perspiration, 
and  is  an  enemy  to  them  in  every  way. 

You  may  now  cart  manure  into  the  orchard,  and  spread  it  over 
the  whole  ground,  if  necessary,  or  over  the  roots  of  such  trees  as 
you  think  are  in  most  need  of  it ;  this  \vill  not  only  be  of  very  con- 
siderable service  to  the  trees,  but  also  to  any  crops  of  grass  or 
grain,  See.  that  you  expect  off  the  place  the  ensuing  seasons. 

It  will  be  of  considerable  advantage  to  new-planted  trees  to  lay 
long-litter,  Sec.  round  their  roots  to  protect  them  from  frost,  as 
directed  in  the  Fruit-Garden  for  this  month. 

The  hedges  which  enclose  your  orchard  and  other  compartments, 
and  that  are  grown  tall,  straggling,  and  thin,  may  now  be  cut  down 
and  plashed,  as  directed  in  page  260  ;  you  need  be  under  no  appre- 
hension of  their  suffering  by  frost,  especially  the  white-thorns. 

SOUTHERN    STATES. 

When  the  ground  continues  open  in  winter,  or  so  much  so,  as 
not  to  interrupt  the  operation  of  ploughing,  you  may  manure  your 


DEC.]  THE  NURSERY.  571 

orchards,  and  plough  such  of  them  as  you  intend  to  lay  down  with 
clover,  or  grass  of  any  kind,  or  to  raise  crops  of  grain  or  potatoes 
in.  You  may  likewise  continue  to  plant  and  prune  all  manner  of 
hardy  fruit-trees,  but  particularly  those  mentioned  in  the  Fruit- 
Garden  for  this  month.  Here  I  would  recommend  to  your  atten- 
tion, the  perusal  of  the  article  Orchard  in  January,  page  38,  Febru- 
ary page  133,  and  March  page  216. 


THE  VINEYARD. 

IN  the  middle  and  eastern  states,  little  remains  to  be  done  in  the 
vineyard  at  this  season  ;  indeed  it  sometimes  happens  in  the  former, 
that  the  ground  is  open  in  the  beginning  of  the  month,  in  which 
case  you  may  plough  between  the  young  vines  and  earth  them  up, 
as  directed  in  November,  if  then  omitted.  It  will  be  of  considerable 
use  to  lay  some  litter  round  the  roots,  and  a  little  way  up  the  stems 
of  such  tender  kinds  as  were  planted  in  the  preceding  spring  and 
autumn,  to  protect  them  from  very  severe  frost,  till  they  are  once 
fully  established.  For  further  particulars  of  what  may  be  done  in 
this  month,  in  and  for  the  vineyard,  as  well  as  in  the  ensuing,  see 
page  41. 

In  the  southern  states  you  may  now  prune  vines,  as  directed  in 
February ;  and  south  of  the  thirty-fifth  degree  of  latitude,  vineyards 
may  be  planted  agreeably  to  the  instructions  given  in  March. 


THE  NURSERY. 

New-Planted  Trees. 

CONTINUE  the  care  of  the  more  curious  and  tender  sorts  of 
new-planted  trees  and  shrubs ;  where  there  was  no  litter  laid  be- 
tween the  rows  in  November,  let  it  be  no  longer  neglected,  and 
bring  it  up  close  to  their  stems,  the  better  to  protect  all  the  roots 
from  frost,  should  the  winter  prove  so  severe  as  to  destroy  their  tops, 
which  may  also  be  protected  as  directed  in  page  574.  The  roots  and 
lower  parts  of  their  stems  being  thus  preserved,  they  will  generally 
shoot  out  freely  in  the  ensuing  spring,  from  near  the  surface  of  the 
ground. 

Seedling'  Trees. 

Seedlings  which  make  but  slow  progress  in  growth  the  first 
year,  such  as  pines,  &c.  must  now  be  taken  due  care  of,  as  directed 
in  page  555. 


572  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  [DEC. 

The  beds  of  acorns  and  of  any  other  tree  seeds,  that  were  sown 
in  the  preceding  months,  would  be  greatly  benefited  by  laying  peas- 
straw,  fern,  leaves,  straw,  or  other  long  litter  over  them,  during  the 
continuance  of  hard  frost ;  but  this  must  be  removed  as  soon  as  the 
frost  is  out  of  the  ground  in  spring,  otherwise  it  will  invite  a  resort 
of  mice,  Sec.  to  destroy  the  seeds. 

Protecting  Trees  and  Shrubs,  &c.  in  Pots. 

The  tall  growing  plants  in  pots,  which  are  plunged  in  warm  bor- 
ders, and  the  pots  covered  with  tan  as  directed  in  page  555,  may  if 
the  kinds  are  rather  tender,  require  an  awning  of  mats  or  strong 
canvas  over  them,  to  protect  them  from  cutting  winds,  which  are 
always  very  injurious  to  tender  plants.  The  other  tender  plants, 
both  shrubby  and  herbaceous,  which  you  have  in  pots  in  frames, 
must  be  duly  attended  to,  as  directed  in  page  563. 

SOUTHERN    STATES. 

Where  the  ground  is  open  and  in  good  condition  for  working,  this 
is  a  very  proper  time  to  sow  hawthorn,  holly,  yew,  mezereon, 
red-cedar,  juniper,  and  pyracantha  berries,  and  all  other  seeds  that 
require  a  years  previous  preparation,  such  as  Stewartia  Mulacoden* 
dron,  ash,  Euonymus,  hornbeam,  Celastrus  scandans,  Nyssa,  and 
many  other  sorts.  For  the  method  of  performing  this  work,  see  the 
Nursery  for  February. 

Continue  to  dig  between  the  rows  of  young  trees  and  shrubs,  and 
forward  the  manuring  and  trenching  of  such  pieces  of  ground,  as 
are  to  be  planted  with  young  trees  in  the  ensuing  months. 

You  may  still  continue  to  make  layers  and  plant  cuttings  of  any 
kinds  of  trees  and  shrubs  that  succeed  by  these  means,  and  also  dig 
up  and  transplant  suckers.  Prune  roses  and  other  hardy  shrubs, 
also  forest  and  young  fruit>trees  in  training.  Plant  out  into  nursery 
rows  the  various  kinds  of  hardy  deciduous  trees  and  shrubs,  as 
directed  in  March ;  but  let  it  be  remembered,  that  these  instruc- 
tions are  exclusively  intended  for  such  parts  of  the  Union  as  have 
not  frost  during  winter,  sufficient  to  prevent  the  ploughing  of 
ground. 


THE  PLEASURE,  OR  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

Tulifis,  Hyacinths,  Anemones,  and  Ranunculuses. 

CONTINUE  to  protect  your  beds  of  choice  tulips,  hyacinths, 
anemones  and  ranunculuses,  as  directed  last  month  ;  this  will  be  in-* 
dispensable  at  present,  as  December  is  generally  one  of  the  most 
severe  and  cutting  months  in  the  year,  It  would  be  unnecessary  in 


DEC.]  FLOWER-GARDEN.  573 

this  place  to  repeat  all  the  instructions  given  in  November  for  that 
purpose,  and  therefore  I  refer  you  to  page  557,  &c.  for  information. 

Some  of  the  Van  Thol,  and  other  early  tulips,  which  were  plant- 
ed in  pots  in  October,  may  towards  the  end  of  this  month,  be  placed 
in  the  Hot-house,  or  in  any  other  forcing  department,  to  produce  a 
winter  bloom  of  flowers.  Early  hyacinths,  spring  crocuses,  snow- 
drops, dwarf  Persian  Iris,  and  polyanthus-narcissus,  may  now  be 
forced  in  like  manner :  but  observe,  that  you  are  to  reserve  a  suffi- 
ciency of  each  sort  for  several  successions,  so  as  to  have  a  constant 
supply  of  flowers  until  those  in  the  open  ground  begin  to  blow. 

When  the  plants  are  just  beginning  to  flower  some  of  them  may 
be  taken  in,  to  decorate  parlours  and  other  rooms. 

Care  of  Auriculas  and  Carnations, 

Your  choice  auriculas  and  carnations  must  now  be  defended  from 
heavy  rains,  frost,  and  snow ;  but  large  portions  of  air  must  be 
admitted  to  them  at  every  favourable  opportunity,  otherwise  the 
auriculas  will  start  to  flower  at  an  untimely  season,  and  the  carnations 
will  draw,  become  weakly,  and  be  good  for  nothing.  Neither  of 
them  are  very  tender,  and  consequently  should  not  be  kept  too 
closely  shut  up. 

Polyanthuses  and  Double  Primroses. 

The  fine  polyanthuses  and  double  primroses,  require  exactly  the 
same  treatment  as  the  auriculas  and  carnations,  which  need  not  be 
repeated;  the  common  polyanthuses  and  primroses,  will  succed 
very  well  in  the  open  borders,  but  will  be  the  better  of  a  slight 
covering  of  straw  during  the  continuance  of  severe  frost. 

Double  Daisies. 

Continue  to  protect  and  treat  your  double  daisies  as  directed  in 
page  558.  You  may  now  place  a  few  of  the  best  plants  which  you 
have  in  pots,  in  some  of  the  forcing  apartments,  to  promote  an  early 
bloom. 

Planting  Bulbous  Roots. 

In  the  early  part  of  this  month,  should  the  weather  continue 
open,  or  that  it  is  practicable  to  work  the  ground,  you  may  plant 
hyacinths,  jonquils,  tulips,  double  narcissus,  star  of  Bethlehem, 
crocrises,  snowdrops,  or  any  other  hardy  kinds  of  bulbs  that  yet  re-» 
main  out  of  ground ;  but  it  is  wrong,  if  it  can  be  avoided,  to  defer  the 
planting  of  them  to  this  time.  However,  it  will  be  better  at  all 
events,  to  plant  the  above  kinds  now,  should  it  be  practicable,  than 
to  keep  them  up  till  spring ;  but  it  will  be  very  proper,  and  indeed 
I  may  say  necessary,  to  cover  the  newly-planted  beds  immediately 
with  straw,  or  other  light  covering,  for  such  roots  as  have  not  pro- 
duced fibres  before  the  setting  in  of  frost,  are  much  more  vulnerable 
to  it,  than  those  that  have. 


574  THE  PLEASURE,  OR  Sec.  [D*:C. 

Polyanthus-narcissus,  anemones,  or  ranunculuses,  should  not  be 
planted  in  the  middle  or  eastern  states  at  this  season,  unless  they 
are  effectually  protected  afterwards  from  rain,  snow,  and  frost ;  I 
would  rather  advise  to  preserve  them  carefully  in  dry  sand  till  the 
early  part  of  March,  or  even  the  middle  of  that  month. 

Protect  Seedling  Bulbs,  &c. 

The  various  kinds  of  seedling  bulbs,  should  now  be  carefully  pro- 
tected as  directed  in  page  559,  otherwise  many  of  them  will  be  in- 
jured.  The  boxes  in  which  were  sowed,  in  the  preceding  months, 
the  seeds  of  bulbous  rooted  flowers,  should  be  treated  in  like  manner. 

Protecting  Stocks,   Wallflowers,  &c. 

Your  double  stock-gillyflowers,  wallflowers,  and  other  plants  of 
similar  constitutions,  which  are  in  frames,  must  have  protection 
from  rain,  snow  and  severe  frost ;  and  it  will  be  necessary  during 
winter,  to  give  them  the  full  benefit  of  the  air  for  a  few  hours  in  the 
middle  of  mild  days,  but  by  no  means  to  expose  them  or  any  other 
tender  plants,  to  a  hot  sun  whilst  in  a  frozen  state. 

Neiv-filanted  Shrubs  and  Trees. 

The  more  tender  or  choise  kinds  of  shrubs  and  trees  which  were 
planted  last  spring,  or  in  the  preceding  month,  should  now  have 
their  roots  well  protected  from  frost  by  laying  some  wispy  dung,  or 
long  litter  all  round  the  plants.  Some  kinds  may  even  require  to 
have  their  tops  matted  round,  or  each  to  be  completely  enveloped 
in  a  coat  of  long  straw,  reaching  from  the  ground  to  the  top  of  the 
plant,  and  terminating  there  in  a  point,  the  whole  assuming  the 
form  ot  a  sugarloaf.  The  straw  is  to  be  supported  by  placing 
slender  sticks  in  the  earth  round  the  shrub,  the  tops  of  which  are  to 
be  tied  together  over  it ;  a  few  willow  twigs  should  be  worked  in 
between  these  sticks  to  prevent  the  straw  from  falling  in,  which 
when  laid  on,  is  to  be  bound  round  by  hay  bands,  willows,  or  the  like. 

Hydrangea  hortcnsis,  China  and  Otaheite  roses,  Prunus 
Lauro-Cerassus,  and  small  plants  of  Magnolia  grandiflora,  Lager- 
strcemia  indica,  double  pomegranate  and  many  other  valuable  shrubs 
may  be  preserved  in  good  condition  by  this  means ;  and  ultimately 
inured  to  the  winter  frosts  without  much  injury  ;  observe  that  the 
covering  is  not  to  be  disturbed  before  the  middle  of  March,  in  the 
middle  states,  or  the  beginning  of  April  in  the  eastern  states  ;  and 
even  then,  it  is  to  be  taken  off  by  piece-meal  and  not  all  at  once, 
for  too  sudden  an  exposure  might  do  them  considerable  injury, 
should  a  hard  frost  or  cutting  winds  ensue.* 

Other  Useful  Work. 

Should  the  weather  prove  open  in  the  early  part  of  the  month, 
you  may  continue  to  prune  hardy  shrubs  and  trees  ;  spread  your 


DEC.]  THE  GREEN-HOUSE.  575 

compost  heaps  if  not  clone  last  month,  and  prepare  more  if  neces- 
sary ;  rake  off  the  fallen  leaves  of  trees,  and  dig  among  your  clumps 
and  shrubbery  plantations. 

In  hard  frosty  weather,  when  little  else  can  be  done  in  the  gar- 
den, than  the  covering  and  uncovering  of  tender  plants,  See.  prepare 
lable  sticks,  to  mark  or  number  the  various  flowers  and  seeds 
\vhen  they  are  planted  or  sown,  and  prepare  all  the  tools  and  every 
other  necessary  convenience  for  your  spring  operations. 


THE  GREEN-HOUSE. 

IT  generally  happens  that  the  weather  is  extremely  rigorous  in 
this  month  ;  therefore,  more  than  ordinary  attention  must  be  paid 
to  the  Green  House  plants.  In  cold  or  frosty  weather  keep  the 
windows  and  doors  closely  shut,  and  close  your  window-shutters 
carefully  every  night,  and  also  in  extremely  rigorous  frosts  except 
while  the  sun  shines  on  the  windows. 

When  Green-Houses  are  so  constructed  as  to  have  no  window- 
shutters,  which  is  certainly  wrong,  large  thick  mats  should  be 
hung  and  nailed,  or  made  fast  by  small  hooks,  in  front  of  the  lights 
every  cold  night,  and  also  in  the  day  time  when  the  weather  is 
very  severe,  and  no  sun.  It  may  sometimes  be  necessary,  even 
when  there  are  shutters,  to  hang  and  nail  up  mats  in  front  of  the 
windows,  to  check  the  piercing  wind.  If  there  are  short  roof-lights, 
they  must  be  covered  with  mats,  or  with  strong  canvass  during  the 
continuance  of  severe  weather  ;  these  may  be  so  contrived  as  to 
roll  up  and  fall  down,  by  means  of  lines  and  pullies,  at  pleasure. 

During  the  continuance  of  severe  frost  accompanied  by  jiicrcing 
cutting  winds,  the  windows  must  never  be  opened,  that  is,  you  must 
neither  slide  the  lights  up  or  down,  but  always  keep  them  and  the 
door  or  doors  close,  and  any  plants  that  are  too  near  the  glass  must 
be  removed  into  the  interior  of  the  house,  especially  at  night  and  in 
cloudy  dark  weather. 

If  you  find  the  frost  likely  to  reach  your  plants,  notwithstanding 
all  this  care,  you  must  heat  the  flues  by  gentle  fires  at  night,  and 
also  in  the  day  time  when  the  frost  is  very  pierceing  and  the  wea- 
ther dark,  and  indeed  without  such  a  convenience  it  is  almost  use- 
less to  attempt  the  erection  or  trouble  of  a  Green-House  either  in 
the  middle  or  eastern  states,  on  account  of  their  extremely  rigorous 
winters.  But  you  must  be  particular  never  to  heat  the  air  above 
40  or  45  degrees,  of  Fahrenheit's  thermometer ;  for  all  the  heat  that 
the  plants  require  at  this  season,  is  only,just  as  much  as  will  pre- 
sereve  them  effectually  from  frost. 

However,  be  very  particular  every  day  when  the  weather  is 
mild  and  the  sun  shining  on  the  windows,  to  slide  down  the  sashes 
even  if  but  half  an  hour,  in  the  middle  of  the  day,  to  admit  fresh 


576  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  [DEC. 

air  and  ventilate  the  house  ;  for  if  the  plants  are  kept  too  close  they 
will  become  tender  and  weak,  and  besides,  it  will  cause  the  leaves 
of  some  kinds  to  turn  of  a  yellowish  sickly  colour,  and  after  to 
get  mouldy  and  drop  off. 

N.  B.  The  plants  must  never  be  deprived  of  light  by  keeping  the 
shutters  close,  a  moment  longer  than  it  is  found  absolutely  neces- 
sary for  their  preservation  ;  and  though  I  am  not  an  advocate  for 
much  fire-heat  in  a  Green-House,  yet  I  would  prefer  it  to  keeping 
the  plants  too  long  in  darkness,  which  has  an  extremely  bad  effect 
upon  them. 

For  particulars  respecting  watering  and  other  information,  I 
would  recommend  to  your  perusal  at  this  term,  the  entire  of  the 
article  Green-House,  in  January,  and  also  in  February,  pages  78 
and  158  ;  the  general  care  during  each  of  these  months  is  nearly 
the  same. 

The  plants  which  you  are  wintering  in  garden-frames,  must  now 
be  carefully  attended,  agreeably  to  the  directions  given  in  page  563. 


THE  HOT-HOUSE. 

THE  frost  generally  sets  in  very  severe  in  this  month,  and  the 
winds  are  keen  and  cutting;  therefore  it  will  be  necessary  to  keep 
up  your  fire  heat  in  proportion  to  the  severity  of  the  weather,  which 
must  be  regulated  by  a  thermometor  ;  never  letting  the  air  of  the 
house  be  colder  than  52  degrees  of  Fahrenheit,  nor  warmer,  at  this 
season^i/ySn?  heat,  than  62  or  thereabouts  ;  for  it  is  very  injudicious 
to  force  the  plants  now  into  a  fresh  state  of  vegetation,  all  that  they 
want  at  present  is  to  be  kept  comfortably  warm  and  rather  in  an  inac- 
tive state  ;  consequently  as  the  heat  of  the  day  in  sunny  weather  in- 
creases, you  must  slacken  your  fires  or  put  them  totally  out,  as 
the  case  may  be,  always  renewing  them  in  the  afternoon  or  whene- 
ver you  find  the  due  warmth  on  the  decline. 

It  will  be  generally  necessary  to  attend  the  fires  till  eleven  or 
twelve  o'clock  at  night,  when,  if  wanted,  a  sufficiency  of  fuel  must  be 
added  to  support  a  proper  degree  of  heat  till  morning;  and  in  ex- 
tremely severe  weather  it  may  sometimes  be  necessary  to  sit  up  all 
night  to  guard  against  untoward  consequences  :  at  all  events  you 
must  be  up  very  early  in  the  morning  to  renew  the  fires. 

If  the  Hot-House  is  furnished  with  shutters  or  covering  of  any 
kind,  as  noticed  in  page  90,  they  will  now  be  of  considerable  use, 
both  for  the  preservation  of  the  plants  and  the  saving  of  fuel.  It 
will,  however,  be  very  proper  to  hang  thick  mats  every  severe 
night  in  front  of  the  upright  sashes,  which  will  prevent  the  wind 
from  rushing  in  immediately  on  the  plants,  through  any  deficiencies 
that  may  be  in  the  work. 

If  the  bark -bed  was  properly  made  or  renewed  in  October,  or  in 
the  beginning  of  November,  it  will  yet  be  in  a  proper  state  of  warmth, 


»sc.]  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  577 

which  is  now  essentially  necessary  ;  if  however,  towards  the  end  of 
the  month  it  is  found  to  be  much  declined  in  heat,  it  should  be  fork- 
ed up,  to  revive  it,  as  directed  in  January,  but  more  particularly  so> 
if  it  contains  pines  for  fruiting  next  season  ;  which  must  be  now 
kept  rather  in  a  slow  state  of  vegetation,  than  dormant. 

Succession  pines,  or  other  plants  in  pits  or  in  the  succession-house, 
require  the  same  care  as  above  ;  observing  not  to  force  them  by  too 
much  heat,  lest  the  pines  start  to  a  fruiting  state  at  an  untimely 
period.  They  are  never  fit  to  produce  handsome  sized  fruit  until 
they  are  two  years  old,  at  which  age  they,  in  October,  should  be 
placed  in  the  fruiting-house,  for  the  ensuing  years  bearing. 

The  pines  and  other  plants  in  the  Hot-House,  Sec.  will  still  re- 
quire to  be  be  watered  occasionally  ;  the  former  not  oftener  than 
once  a  week,  the  shrubby  kinds  in  small  pots  perhaps  twice  a  week, 
but  the  succulent  sorts  should,  at  this  season,  have  hut  very  little 
and  that  only  when  you  are  able  to  perceive  that  they  are  in  absolute 
want  of  it  ;  and  then  let  it  be  given  round  the  edges  of  the  pots, 
and  not  to  the  plants  themselves,  for  if  it  should  stagnate  about 
their  stems  it  would  infaliably  rot  them!  The  varieties  of  Cactus 
Melocactus  or  Turk's  Cap,  with  many  other  of  the  most  succulent 
kinds,  should  at  this  season  have  no  water  given  them,  except  in 
cases  of  great  necessity. 

When  there  happens  to  come  a  fine,  sunny,  calm  day,  it  will  be 
proper  to  admit  some  fresh  air  into  the  house,  by  sliding  some  of 
the  glasses,  in  the  warmest  part  of  the  day,  a  little  way  open,  even  if 
but  for  half  an  hour ;  but  be  sure  to  close  them  again  in  due  time, 
and  especially  if  the  weather  changes  to  cold  or  cloudy.  This  is 
best  effected  at  this  season,  by  sliding  open  a  few  of  the  roof-lights 
if  it  can  be  done  with  convenience. 

Pick  off  such  decayed  leares  as  you  perceive  on  the  various  plants, 
keep  them  free  from  insects  and  filth  of  every  kind,  and  the  whole 
house  as  sweet  and  clean  as  possible. 

Sprinkle  your  flues  and  walks  occasionally  with  water,  to  raise  a 
comforting  steam  of  moisture  in  the  house ;  especially  when  you 
are  obliged  to  burn  fires  constantly  night  and  day.  This  will  pre- 
serve the  plants  from  the  bad  effects  produced  by  the  parching  in- 
fluence of  a  constant  fire-heat,  and  also  tend  to  prevent  an  increase 
of  insects. 

You  may  towards  the  latter  end  of  tin's  month  introduce  into  the 
Hot-House,  pots  of  strawberries  and  flowering  plants  of  various 
kinds  ;  sow  cucumber  seed,  and  plant  kindney-beans,  as  directed 
in  January,  in  order  to  force  them  into  early  perfection.  Pots  or 
tubs  of  bearing  grape-vines  may  also  be  now  introduced  for  early 
fruiting,  if  there  are  none  trained  in  from  the  outside.  Such  vines 
as  are  planted  in  front  of  the  house  and  trained  in  under  the  lights, 
should  have  the  parts  of  their  stems  which  are  exposed  to  the 
weather,  well  wrapped  round  with  hay  or  straw  neatly  tied  on, 
also,  their  roots  covered  sufficiently  with  long  litter  ;  for  their 
juices  being  put  into  full  circulation  by  the  forcing  heat,  renders 
the  exposed  parts  much  more  vulnerable  to  frost,  than  if  the  entire 
plants  stood  inactive  in  the  open  air. 

4* 


578  THE  HOT-HOUSE.  [DEC, 

I  have  now  gone  through  the  work  of  the  several  months,  and 
endeavoured  to  adapt  the  whole  to  the  seasons  and  local  situations 
of  the  different  parts  of  the  Union,  to  explain  and  simplify  the  va- 
rious operations,  and  to  render  the  work  of  as  much  public  utility 
as  in  my  power;  if  I  have  fallen  into  any  mistakes,  or  omitted  any 
thing  useful,  I  shall  consider  myself  under  serious  obligations  to 
those  who  will  be  so  good  as  to  inform  me  of  them ;  and  should  I 
live  to  publish  a  second  edition  of  this  work,  will  be  attentive  to 
make  due  reparation. 


GENERAL  CATALOGUE. 


HAVING  concluded  the  necessary  instructions  for  perform- 
ing; the  principal  horticultural  works  of  the  entire  year  (I  hope  to 
the  satisfaction  and  advantage  of  my  fellow-citizens,  and  the  public) 
I  now  proceed  to  the  General  Catalogue,  which  I  shall  endeavour 
to  arrange  and  subdivide  in  such  a  manner  as  to  be  convenient,  in- 
teresting, and  inductive  to  a  botanical  or  scientific  knowledge  of 
plants  ;  the  importance  of  which  to  society,  in  as  much  as  vegetables 
have  relation  to  medicine,  manufactures,  the  production  of  valuable 
articles  of  necessity  and  commerce,  is  so  well  known  to  every  civili- 
zed nation,  that  it  is  unnecessary  to  recapitulate  it's  advantages.  The 
innocent,  healthful,  and  pleasing  amusement  that  Botanical  studies 
might  afford  to  the  fair  daughters  of  Columbia,  who  have  leisure 
time  to  devote  to  such,  is  also  a  very  important  object,  as  in  that 
way,  many  happy  and  enchanting  hours  might  be  delightfully  spent 
to  useful  and  salubrious  purposes,  which  otherwise  would  hang  hea- 
vily or  be  trifled  away  perhaps  to  disadvantage. 

The  subdivisions  shall  be  given  in  the  order  in  which  they  are 
treated  of  in  the  work,  and  there  are  few,  if  any,  plants  therein, 
some  double  and  monstrous  varieties  excepted,  but  may  be  raised 
from  seed,  if  obtained  fresh  from  their  respective  native  coun- 
tries, or  from  where  they  arrive  at  due  maturity ;  at  present,  an 
immense  number  of  them  are  in  possession  of,  and  for  sale  by  tl}e 
Author  of  this  work,  and  every  effort  shall  be  made  on  his  part 
to  procure  the  greatest  collection  possible,  as  well  of  the  beautiful 
and  curious,  as  of  the  more  important  and  valuable  sorts, 


A  CATALOGUE  OF  KITCHEN-GARDEN  ESCULENT 
PLANTS  AND  HERBS. 

COMMON    NAMES.  BOTANICAL    NAMES. 

ARTICHOKE,  Garden        -          -  Cynara  Scolymus 

1.  Green  Globe.    2.  White  Globe. 

3.  French. 

Artichoke,  Jerusalem  Helianthus  tuberosus 

Asparagus,  the  Garden  Asparagus  officinalis 

1.  Dutch    2.  Gravesend.    3.  Bat- 

tersea.     4.  Large  Jersey. 


580 


A  CATALOGUE  OF  KITCHEN-GARDEN 


Bean,  The  common  Garden 

1.  Early  Mazag-an.  2.  Early  Lis- 
bon. 3.  Long-  podded.  4.  Com- 
mon field  or  Horse.  5.  Dwarf 
Cluster.  6.  White  Blossom.  7. 
Red  Blossom.  8.  Large  Windsor. 
9.  Large  Toker.  10.  Broad  Spa- 
nish. 11.  Mumford.  12.  Green 
Nonpareil.  13.  Turkey  Long- 
pod.  14.  Green  Genoa,  8cc. 

Bean,  The  Dwarf  Kidney 

1.  Early  Yellow  Dwarf.  2.  Early 
Cream-coloured  do.  3.  Early 
speckled  do.  4.  Early  White  do. 
5.  Early  Brown-speckled  do.  6. 
Negro  dwarf.  7.  Large  White 
do.  8.  Purple-speckled  do.  9. 
Black-eyed  do.  10.  Red-speckled 
do. 

Running  Kinds. 

1.  Corn  Beans.  2.  Large  White 
Runners.  3.  Cream-coloured  Run- 
ners. 4.  Round  White  Runners, 
Sec. 

,,  Scarlet  Runners 
„  Lima  Beans 
,,  Carolina  do. 

Beet,  The  Common 

1.  Red  Beet. 

2.  Long  Red  do. 

3.  Turnep-rooted  do. 

4.  Yellow-rooted  do. 

5.  Green  or  White  do. 

6.  Mangel-Wurzel,  or  Root  of 

Scarcity 

Borage,  Common 
Borecole,  Purple-curled 

„  Green-curled 

„  Siberian  or  Scotch 

„  Brussels    Sprouts 

,,  Finely  Fringed 
Broccoli,  Italian 

1.  Early  Purple.     2.  Early  Green. 

3.  Large  Late  Purple.    4.  Large 

White 
Cabbage,  Heading 

1.  Early  Smyrna.    2.  Early  York. 

3.  Early  Heart-shaped.     4.  Early 

Battersea.   5.  Early  Antwerp.    6. 

Early  Dwarf.  7.  Early  Sugar-loaf. 

8.  Large  Late  Sugar-loaf.  9.  Large 

Scotch.     10.  Large  English.  11. 

LargeDrum-head.  12.  FlatDutch. 
5.  Large  Late  Battersea.  14.  Red 

Pickling. 
Cabbage,  Turnep 

,, Turnep-rooted 

,,  Jerusalem  Kale 
Cabbage,  Savoy 

1.  Green.     2.  Yellow.   3.  Milan. 
Calabash,  or  Bottle -gourd 


Vicia  Faba 


Pbateolus  vulgaris,  \.punula 


V.  volubilis 


v.  cocclnca 
Pbaseolus  limensis 

v. 
Beta  vulgaris 

v.  rubra  vulgaris 

v.  rubra  major 

T.  rubra,  radice  rapec 

v.  lute  a  major 

V.  pallidc  virens  major 

„  Ci  da 

Borago  ojpcinalis 

JSrassica  oleracea  lacinlata 
,,  oleracea  selenicea 
,,  oleracea  sabellica 


Brasstca  oleracea  italica 


Brassica  oleracea  capitate 


Brassica  oleracea  Napobrassica 
,,  Napus  sativa 

Brasstca  oleracea  sabauda 
Cucurbit  a  lagenarid 


ESCULENT  PLANTS  AND  HERBS. 


581 


Cardoon,  Spanish 

Carrot,  Long  Orange 
,,  Early  Horn  do. 

Cauliflower,  Early 
,,  Late  do. 

Celery,  Italian  upright 

1.  Solid  staked.  2.  North's  Large. 
3.  Patagonian.  4.  Red-stalked 
Solid. 

Celeriac,  Turnep-rooted  Celery 

Chervil 

Chives  or  Cives 

Coriander 

Corn,  Indian 

Corn-sallad 

Cr£ss,  or  Pepper-grass 

1.  Narrow-leaved.  2.  Broad- leav- 
ed. 3.  Curled-leaved. 

Cress,  Winter,  or  Sallad  Scurvy-grass. 

Cress,  Water 

Cucumber,  Common 

1.  Early  Frame.  2.  Early  Prickly. 
3.  Early  Cluster.  4.  Long  Prick- 
ly. 5.  Long  Green  Turkey.  6 
Long  White  Turkey.  7.  Long 
Roman.  8.  White  Spined. 

Cucumber,  Round  Prickly 

Egg- Plant 

1.  Purple-fruited 

2.  White-fruited 
Endive,  Green -curled 

„  White-curled 

,,  Broad  leaved 
Finochio 

Garlick,  Cultivated 
Gourd-  Squash 
Ground  Nut 
Leek,  Common 

,,  Narrow-leaved 

,,  Broad-leaved 
Lettuce,  or  Sallad 

I.  White   Cos.      2.  Green   Cos. 

3.  Egyptian  Cos.     4.  Black  Cos. 
5.  Aleppo.     6.  India.     7.  Brown 
Dutch.     8.    Common    Cabbage. 
9.  Imperial.     10.  Grand  Admiral. 

II.  Hammersmith  Hardy-green. 
12.  Tennisball,      13.    New  Zea- 
land.   14.  Large  Royal.     15.  Ma- 
deira.    16.  Saxony  Cabbage,  &c. 

Melon,  Musk 

I.  Early  Romana.     2.  Early  Can- 
taleupe.      3.  Early  Small  Zatte. 

4.  Early  Succado.     5.  Black  Por- 
tugal. 6.  Golden  Rock.   7.  Large 
Mogul.      8.  Minorca.      9.  Large 
African.     10.  Rock   Cantaleupe. 

II.  Netted  Green-flesh.  12.  Japan 
Rock.  13.  Nutmeg,  &c. 

Melon,  Water 

1,  Long  Red-flesh.  2.  Long  Yel- 


Cynara  Cardunculus 
JDaucus  Carota 

Brassica  oleracea  botrytis 
Apium  graveolens  dulce 


Apium  graveolens  raftaceum 
Scandix  Cerefolium 
Mlium  Schaenoprasum 
Coriandrum  satiwtn 
Zea  Mays 

Valeriana  Locust  a  olttoria 
Lepidium  sativum 


Erisymiim  Barbarea 
Sisymbriuin  Nasturtium 
Cucumis  sativus 


Cucumis  Anguria 
Solanutn  Melange** 


Cichorium 


Anetbum  azoricurn, 
Allium  sativum 
Cucurbita  MeiopepQ 
Aracbis  hypogaea 
Allium  Porruin 


Lactuca  sativa 


Cucumis  Melo 


Cucurbita  Citrullu* 


582 


A  CATALOGUE  OF  KITCHEN-GARDEN 


low-flesh.  3.  Large  Round  Red- 
flesh.  4.  Green-flesh  do. 

Mushroom 

Mustard,  White 
,,  Black 

Nasturtium,  Large 

Okra 

Onion,  Common 

1.  Strasburg.    2.  White  Spanish. 

3.  Silver-skinned.      4.    Madeira. 
5.  Long-keepiner.     6.  Blood-red. 

7.  Welsh 

8.  Tree 

Orach,  or  English  Lamb's-quarter 

,,  Large  Green-leaved 

,,  Red-leaved 
Parsley,  Common 

„  Curled 

„  Hamburg,  or  Large-rooted 
Parsnep,  Long  Garden 
Patience  Dock 
Pea,  Garden 

1.  Early  Frame.    2.  Early  Golden 

Hotspur.     3.  Early  Charleton  do. 

4.  Spanish  Dwarf.     5  Dwarf  Su- 
gar.    6.    Leadman's    Dwarf.     7. 
Tall  Sugar.    8.  Sugar  Poland.  9. 
Blue  Prussian.     10.  Green  Impe- 
rial Marrow.    11.  Dwarf  Marrow- 
fat.    12.   White  Rouncival.     13. 
Large    Green    do.        14.    Large 
Gray.     15.  Spanish  Morotto.   16. 
Common   Field.      17.    Pearl,    or 
Nonesuch.      18.  Essex  Reading. 
19.   Albany.      20.    Glory  of  En- 
gland.     21.    Large    Marrowfat. 
22.  Dutch  Admiral. 

Pepper,  Red  or  Guinea 

1.  Long-podded 

2.  Heart-shaped 

3.  Bell 

4.  Cherry,  &c. 
Potatoe,  Common 
Potatoe,  Sweet 
Pumpkin,  or  Pompion 

Many  varieties, 

Radish,  Garden 

1 .  F  arly  Frame .  2 .  E  arly  Purple 
Short-top.  3.  Salmon  Short-top. 
4.  Common  Salmon.  5.  White 
Short-top.  6.  White  Turnep- 
rooted  7.  Red  Turnep-rooted. 
8.  White  Winter  Radish.  9. 
Black  Winter  do.  10.  White 
Naples,  &c. 

Radish,  Horse 

Rampion,  Esculent 

Rape,  or  Cole-seed 

Rocambole 

Salsafy 

Scorzonera 


Agaricv.s  campestris 
Sin  apis  alba. 

,,  nigra 

fropoeolum  majus 
^Hibiscus  esculentus 
Allium  Ctpa 


,,Jlstulosum 
,,  canadense 
Atriplex  bortensis 


Apium  petroseli 
„  crispum 
„  lati folium 
Pastinaca  sativa 
JRumex  Patientia 
Pisuin  satiwm 


Capsicum  cnnuum 

v.  longioribus  siliqui 
v.  cordiforme 
v.  telragontcni 
v.  cerasifonne 

Solanum  tuberosum 

Convolvulus  Batatas 

Cucurbita  Pepo 

Rapbanus  sativus 


Cocblearia  Armor acia 
Campanula  Rapunculus 
Brassica  Napus 
Allium  Scorodoprasum 
tfragopogon  porrifolium 
Scorzonera  hispanica 


AROMATIC,  POT,  AND  SWEET  HERBS. 

Sea-Kale,  or  Cabbage  Crambe  maritima 

Shallot  Alliutn  Ascalonicutn 

Skirret  Slum  Sis  arum 

Sorrel,  Broad-leaved  Rumex  Aceto&a 

,,  Round-leaved  ,,  scutatus 

Spinach,  1.  Prickly-seeded  Spinacia  oleracea 

2.  Burdock.     3.  Round-leaved. 

Squash,  Warted  Cucurbita  verrucosa 

Many  varieties, 

Tomatoes,  or  Love-apple  Solatium  Lycopersicum 

Turnep,  Cultivated  Brassica  Rapa 

1.  Early  Dutch.     2.  Early  Stone. 

3.  Early  Green.  4.  Yellow  Round. 
5.  Large  Red-topped.      6.  White 
Round.     7.  Tankard.      8.  Large 
English  Field.     9.  Swedish.     10. 
Long  French. 


AROIvt ATIC,  POT,  AND  SWEET  KERBS.  . 

ANISE  Pimpinella  Anisu-m 

Basil,  Sweet  Ocymum  Basilicum  medium 

,,  Bush  ,,  minimum 

Caraway  Car um  Carui 

Clary  Salvia  Sclarea 

Coriander  Coriandrum  sativum 

Chamomile  Antkemis  nobilis 

Dill  Anethum  graveolens 

Fennel,  Common  Anetbum  Fcsniculum 

,,  Sweet  „  v.  dulce 

Hyssop  Hyssopus  ojficinalis 

Lavender  JLavendula  Spica 

Lovage  Ligusticum  Levisticum 

Marigold,  Pot  Calendula  officinalis 

Marjoram,  Sweet  Origanum  Major  ana 
„  Pot  „  Onites 

„  Winter  Sweet  ,,  beraclcoticum 

Mint,  Spear  Mentba  virides 
„  Pepper  „  piper  it  a 

„  Pennyroyal  „  Pulegium 

,,  Horse  Monarda  pit  net  at  a 

Rosemary  Rosmarinus  officinalis 

Sage,  Common  Sai'via  ojficinalis 

Savory,  Summer  Satureia  bortensis 
,,  Winter  M  montana 

Smallage  Apium  graveolens 

Tarragon  Artemisia  Dracunculue 

Thyme,  Common  fJbymus  vttlgaris 
»  Lemon     v  ,,  serpyllum 


PLANTS  CULTIVATED  FOR  MEDICINAL  PURPOSES,  &c 

Ague-weed,  Thoroughwort  Eupatorium  perfoliatum 

Angelica,  Garden  Angelica  Arcbangelica 

Betony,  Wood  Betonica  officinalis 


584 


A  SELECT  LIST  OF  FRUIT-TREES. 


Bug-loss 

Carduus  benedictus 

Celandine 

Comfrey,  Common 

Cucumber,  Bitter 

Elecampane 

Flax,  Common 

Fenugreek 

Feverfew 

Foxglove 

Gromwell 

Hemlock 

Horehound 

Hound's-tongu* 

Liquorice 

Madder,  Dyer's 

Mallow,  Marsh 

Mugwort,  Common 

Nep,  or  Catmint 

Nettle,  Stinging 

Palma  Christi,  or  Castor-oil  Nut 

Pimpernel, 

Pink -root,  Carolina 

Poppy,  Opium 

Rue,  Garden 

Rhubarb,  True  Turkey 

,,  Common 
Scurvy-grass 
Snake-root,  Virginia 
Southernwood 
Tansey 
Tobacco,  Cultivated 

,,  Common  English 
Weld,  Woad,  or  Dyer's-weed 
Winter  Cherry 
Wormseed,  Goosefoot 
Wormwood 
Yarrow 

„  Sweet  or  Milfoil 


Anchusa  officinalis 
Centaurea  benedicta 
Chelidonum  majiis 
Sympbytum  officinale 
Cueumis  Colocinthus 
Inula  Helenium 
Linum  usitatissimiim 
Trigonella  Feenum  Gracutn, 
Matricaria  Parthenium 
Digitalis  purpurea 
Litbospermum  officinale 
C'onium  maculatum 
Marrubium  vulgar e 
Cynoglossom  officinale 
Glycyrrbiza  gtabra 
Rubia  tinctorinn 
Altbxa  officinalis 
Artemisia  vulgaris 
Nepeta  Cataria     . 
Urtica  urens 
Ricinus  communis 
Anagalis  a/vensis 
Spigelia  marilandica 
Papaver  somniferum 
Rut  a  graveolens 
Rheum  palmatum 

,,  Rbaponticum 
Cochlearia  officinalis 
Aristolochia  serpentaria. 
Artemisia  Abrotanum 
'Tanacetum  vulgare 
Nicotiana  Tabacum 

„  rusticum 
Reseda  Luteola 
Pbysalis  Alkekengi 
Cbenepodium  antbeJminticum 
Artemisia  Absinthium 
Aebillea  Millefolium 

,,  Ageratum 


A  SELECT  LIST  OF  FRUIT-TREES. 

Which,  being  all  hardy,  may  be  cultivated  to  advantage  in 
every  state  of  the  Union ;   especially  if  soil  and  exposure  be  given 


EiruY)    iiiay     uc    L/uiii  >  tii\_vi   \.\j    **v±»m*i**p,^    m 

every  state  01  me  union;   especially  if  soil  and  exposure  be  given 
agreeably  to  their  respective  natures  and  necessities. 

JtT"    These  follow  in  Successive  Columns. 

ALMOND,  Amygdalus  communis  3.  Eve  Apple 

1.  Sweet  or  Jordan  Almond 

2.  Common,  o,  thick- shelled  do. 

3.  Bitter  Almond 
Apple,  Perils  Mains 

Sttnwner  Apples 

1.  Ginetting,  or  Juaeatelng 

2.  Early  Harvest 


4.  Suuiir  ei  Qjieening 
5   M.ipa-et  Ajij>:e 

6.  King  Apple 

7.  A  \v  Apple 

;.   Ei    !ish  C..dlin 

9.  Sweet'i  Ma.ve-st 

10.  Vvyoiiuau's  Harvest 


A  SELECT  LIST  OF  FRUIT-TREES. 


585 


Autumn  and  Early  Winter  Apples. 

11.  Golden  Pippin 

12.  Summer  Blush 

13.  Queen  Apple 

14.  Summer  Pearmain 

15.  Lemon  Pippin 

16.  Fall  Pippin 

17".  Autumn  Pearmain 

18.  Shippen's  Russet 

19.  American  Pippin 

20.  Burlington  Pippin 

21.  Golden  Rennet 

22.  Aromatic  Pippin 

23.  Sheep's  Snout 

24.  Scarlet  Pearmain, 

25.  Orange  Apple 

26.  Vandevere 
Long-keeping  Apples. 

27.  Newtown  Pippin 

28.  Newark  Pippin 

29.  Priestly's  Apple 

30.  Jersey  Greening 

31.  Monstrous  Pippin 

32.  English  Nonpareil 

33.  American  Nonpareil 

34.  Doctor  Apple 

35.  Everlasting  Apple 

36.  Royal  Russet 

37.  Holland  Pippin 

38.  Late  Golden  Pippin 

39.  Crafton  Apple 

40.  Quince  Apple 

41.  Winter  Queening 

42.  Leathercoat 

43-  Lone's  Pearmain 

44.  Spitzbergen 

45.  Rhode  Island  Greening 

46.  Swaar  Apple 

47.  Yellow  Bellflower 

48.  Redling 

Cyder  Apples. 

49.  Harrison  Apple 

50.  Gennet-Moyle 

51.  Vanwinkle 

52.  English  Redstreak 

53.  Hughes's  Virginian  Crab 

54.  Cooper's  Russeting 

55.  Campfield  Apple 

56.  Newtown  Pippin 

57.  Nonesuch 

58.  Red  Sweeting 

59.  Yellow  Sweeting 

60.  John  Apple 

Apricot,  Prunus  Armeniaca  ^ 

1.  Masculine 

2.  Roman 

3.  Breda 

4.  Orange 

5.  Moor  Park 

6.  Algiers 

7.  Brussels 


8.  Large  Early 

9.  Nancy 
10    Persian 

11.  Turkey 

12.  Robinson's 
Berberry,  Herberts  vulgaris 

1.  Red-fruited  with  stones 

2.  Red-fruited  without,stones 

3.  White -fruited 

4.  Black-fruited 
Cherry,  Prunus  Cerasus 

1.  Early  May 

2.  May  Duke 

3.  Archduke 

4.  Black  Heart 

5.  Ox  Heart 

6.  Bleeding  Heart 

7.  Harrison's  Heart 

8.  Morello 

9.  Carnation 

10.  Yellow  Spanish 
"    11.  Lukeward 

12.  Amber  Heart 

13.  Montmorency 

14.  Kentish 

15.  Tradescant's 

16.  Turkey  Heart 

17.  Swedish 

18.  Large  Amber 
19    Imperial 

20.  Holman's  Duke 
Chesnut,  Sweet,  Fagus  Castanea 

1.  Large  Spanish 

2.  American 

Chinquapin,  Fagus  pumila. 
Currant,  Red  and  White,  Ribes  Rubrum 

1.  Common  Red. 

2.  Large  Red 

3.  Large  Pale  Dutch 
.      4.  Large  White 

5.  White  Crystal 
Currant,  Black,  Ribes  nigrum 
Fig,  Common,  Ficus  Car  tea 

For  the  varieties  see  page  211. 
Filbert,  Corylus  Avellana 

1.  White  Filbert 

2.  Red  do. 

3.  Large  Cob-nut 

4.  Common  Hazel-nut 
Gooseberry,  Ribes  Grossularia 

Red  Fruit. 

1.  Ackerley's  Rodney 

2.  ,,  Double  Bearer 

3.  Alcock's  King 

4.  „  Duke  of  York 

5.  Arrowsmith's    Ruler   of    En- 

gland 

6.  Barrow's  Globe 

7.  Blakely's  Swingham 

8.  Boardman's  Royal  Oak 

9.  Bradshaw's  Hero 
4  F 


586 


A  SELECT  LIST  OF  FRUIT-TREES. 


10.  Brundrit's  Atlas 

11.  Champaigne 

12    Ch;xpman's  Peerless 

13.  Dunn's  Glory  of  England 

14.  Down's  Cheshire  Round 

15.  Fail-low's  Lord  Hood 

16.  Fisher's  Conqueror 

17.  Fox's  Lord  Hood 

18.  ,,  Jolly  Smoker 

19.  Gregory's  Conqueror 

20.  Hall's  Porcupine 

21.  Heppard's  Attractor 

22.  Jeffrey's  Reynard  Fox 

23.  Johnson's  Twig'ein 

24.  Keaton's  Britannia 

25.  Ketlow's  Denton  Red 

26.  Leigh's  Defiance 

27.  „  Lord  Howe 

28.  „  Red  Lion 

29.  Livesey's  Bellegarde 

30.  Lomax's  Victory 

31.  Lord's  Fencibles 

32.  M' Mahon's  Republican 

33.  „  Philadelphia  Red 

34.  Mason's  Hercules 

35.  Parkinson's  Pico  de  Teneriffe 

36.  ,,  Scarlet 
37    Perfection 

38.  Rawlingson's  Duke  of  Bridge- 

water 

39.  Rider's  Old  England 
40  Shaw's  Billy  Dean. 

41.  Shepley's  Black  Prince 

42.  Smith's  Bustler 

43.  Supreme  Red 

44.  Taylor's  Volunteer 

45.  Tillotson's  Seedling 

46.  Turner's  Black  King 

47.  „  Patagonian 

48.  Warrington  Red 

49.  Warwickshire  Conqueror 

50.  Whiteley's  Great  Bear 

51.  Worthington's  Glory  of  Eccles 

Yellow  Fruit, 

52.  Blakeley's  Eclipse 

53.  Brundrit's  Sir  Sydney 

54.  Cl lead's  Golden  Lion 

55.  Costerdine's  Yellow 

56.  Davenport's  Defender 

57.  ft  Creeping  Ceres 

58.  Hamnet's  Kilton 

59.  Hill's  Sir  Peter  Teazel 

60.  „  Golden  Gourd 

61.  „  Royal  Sovereign 

62.  Jackson's  Golden  Drop 

63.  ,,  Golden  Orange 

64.  Leigh's  Prince  of  Orange 

65.  M'  Mahon's  American  Eagle 

66.  Parkinson's  Goldfinder 

67.  Rider's  Brandy  Yellow 

68.  Robinson's  Crudus 


69.  Smith's  Golden  Image 

70.  „  Sparkler 

71.  Thorpe's  Moston  Wolfe 

72.  Whittington's  Scepter 

73.  Williamson's  Yellow  Hornet 

Green  Fruit. 

74.  Blakeley's  Green  Chissel 

75.  Boardman's  Green  Oak 

76.  Bundrit's  Tickle  Toby 

77.  Chadwick's  Hero 

78.  Dean's  Lord  Hood 

79.  Fox's  Green  Goose 

80.  High  Sheriff  of  Lancashire 

81.  Hodgson's  Col.  Tarleton 

82.  Jackson's  Green  John 

83.  Johnson's  Willow 

84.  Leigh's  Victory 

85.  M'  Mahon's  Paddy-whack 

86.  ,,  Green  Mammoth 

87.  Miss  Bold 

88.  Mill's  Langley  Green 

89.  Monk's  Charles  Fox 

90.  Nixon's  Green  Myrtle 

91.  „  Mendoza' 

92.  Rawlingson's  Royal  George 

93.  Read's  Sanctification 

94.  Bedford's  Tarqum 

95.  Robinson's  Stump 

96.  Seal's  Diana 

97.  Smith's  Green  Mask 

98.  Taylor's  Nimrod 

99.  Worthington's  Rosamond 

100.  Yates's  Duke  of  Bedford 

White  Fruit. 

101.  Adams's  Snowball 

102.  Atkinson's  White  Hall 

103.  Chapman's  Highland  White 

104.  „  Iron  White 

105.  Davenport's  Lady 

106.  Gibson's  Apollo 

107.  Holding's  White  Muslin 

108.  Holt's  Turtle  Dove 

109.  Kenyon's  White  Noble 

110.  Leigh's  White  Swan 

111.  M'  Mahon's  Snowdrop 

112.  „  Diamond 

113.  Moor's  White  Bear 

114.  Neild's  White  Rose 

115.  Nixon's  White  Heart 

116.  Redford's  Venus 

117.  Whittington's  White  Rose 

118.  Woodward's  White  Smith 

119.  Willich's  Diadem 
Medlars,  Mespilus  germanica 

1.  Dutch 

2.  Nottingham. 
Mulberry,  White,  Morus  alba 

„  Black,  ,,  nigra 

,,  Red,  ,,  rubra 

Nectarine,  Amygdalus  Persica 
1.  Fairchiid's  Early 


A  SELECT  LIST  OF  FRUIT-TREES. 


587 


2.  Elruge  6. 

3.  Scarlet  7. 

4.  Newington  8. 

5.  Red  Roman 

6.  Early  Yellow  9. 

7.  Green  Clingstone  10. 
-8.  Murray  11. 
9.  Golden  12. 

10.  Clermont  13. 

11.  Italian  14. 

12.  Peterborough  15. 

13.  Violet  16. 

14.  Genoa  17. 

15.  Morell's  Large  18. 

16.  Red  19. 

17.  White,  &c.  20. 
Peach,  Amygdalus  Persica  *  21. 

1.  EarlyAvant  22. 

2.  White  Nutmeg  23. 

3.  Red  Nutmeg  24. 

4.  Early  Mignonne  25. 

5.  Early  Ann 

6.  Early  Newington  26. 

7.  Early  Elizabethtown  27. 

8.  White  Magdalen  28. 

9.  Red  Clingstone  29. 

10.  White  do.  30. 

11.  Kennedy's  Carolina  31. 

12.  Royal  George  32. 

13.  Oldmixon  33. 

14.  Late  Heath  34. 

15.  La  Plata  35. 

16.  Georgia  36. 

17.  Congress  37. 

18.  Bourdine  38. 

19.  President  39. 

20.  English  locomparable  40. 

21.  Chancellor  Plum, 

22.  Rambouillet  1. 

23.  La  Teton  de  Venus  2. 

24.  La  Pourpree  3. 

25.  Belle  Chevreuse  4. 

26.  Noblesse  5. 

27.  Bellegarde  6. 

28.  Large  Yellow  Freestone  7. 
2,9.  White  Pavie  8. 
SO.  Monstrous  Pavie  9. 

31.  Clifton's  Nutmeg  10. 

32.  Lemon  Peach  11. 
S3.  Large  Newington  12. 
34.  Carolina  Clingstone,  &c.  13. 

Pear,  Pyrus  communis  14. 

Summer  Fruit.  15. 

1.  Musk  16. 

2.  Green  Chissel  17. 

3.  Jargonelle  18. 

4.  Prince's  Bergaraot  19. 

5.  Epine  d'Ete  20. 


Little  Musk 
Red  Muscadellq 
Griffith's  Summer 
Autumn  Fruit. 
Summer  Bergamot 
Autumn  Bergamot 
Summer  Bon-chretein 
Monsieur  Jean 
Orange  Bergamot 
Brown  Beurre 
St.  Michael's 
Swan's  Egg 
Cooper's  Fall 
Beurre  d'  Ore 
Imperial 
White  Butter 
Gray  Butter 
De  la  Motte 
Crasane 
Blessed  Pear 
Skinless 

Winter  Fruit. 
Colmar 
Chaumontelle 
Winter  Bori-chretieq 
St.  German 
Epine  d'Hyver 
Long  Green  Winter 
Pound 
Imperial 
Green  Rennet 
Red  Cap 
Vergouleuse 
Ambrette 

Spanish  Bon-chretien 
Easter  Bergamot 
Cape  May  Winter 
Prunus  domestica 
Jaune-hative 
Early  Damask 
Small  Black  Damask 
Damask  Violet,  of  Tours 
Orleans 
Fotheringham 
Black  Perdrigon 
White  do. 
Violet  dp, 

Red  Bonum  Magnum 
White  do. 
Cooper's  large 
La  Roy  ale 

Little  Queen  Claudia 
Large  do.  or  Dauphiny 
Drap  d'  Or 
Apricot  Plum 
Maitre  Claud 
Myrobalin 
Green  Gage 


*   The  Peach  and  Nectarine  are  only  varieties  of  the  same  genus,  the  latter 
fraying  a  smooth  skin,  and  a  more  brisk  and  vinous  juice  than  the  former , 


588  A  CATALOGUE  OF  HARDY 

21.  Blue  Gage  3.  Pear 

22.  Red  Gage  4.  Apple 

23.  White  Gage  Raspberry,  Rubus  idxus 

24.  La  Mirabelle  For  the  best  sorts  see  page  517. 

25.  Brignolle  Roan  Tree,  Sorbus  aucuparia 

26.  Red  Diaper,  or  Roch-carbon    Service,  Sorbus  domestica 

27.  Prune  Plum  1.  Apple-shaped 

28.  White  Winter  Damson  2.  Pear-shaped 

29.  Late  Imperatrice  Strawberry,  Fragaria  vesca 

30.  Common  Damson,  &c.  For  the  best  sorts,  seepage  476. 
Plum,  Ghicasaw,  Prunus  cbicasa  Vine,  Vitis  vinifera 

Quince.  Pyrus  Cydonia  For  varieties,  see  page  229,  &c. 

1.  Portugal  Walnut,  English,  Juglans  Regia 

2.  Orange 


A  CATALOGUE  OF  HARDY  DECIDUOUS  TREES  AND 
SHRUBS, 

Which  may  be  cultivated  for  use  and  ornament,  and  generally 
raised  from  seeds ;  though  many  of  them  may  be  propagated  by 
cuttings,  layers,  suckers,  grafting,  and  inoculating. 

As  it  would  be  desirable,  and  of  considerable  utility,  that  plants 
in  general,  should  be  known  by  their  true  Botanical  names,  es- 
pecially in  such  a  country  as  this,  the  population  of  which  is,  in 
a  great  measure,  made  up  of  people  from  «very  nation  in  Europe, 
who  have  given  so  many  local,  trivial  names,  to  the  same  plant,  as 
to  confound  every  advantage  that  might  be  derived  from  an  univer- 
sal one  ;  and  further,  when  certain  trees  or  shrubs  mark  boundary 
lines,  which  is  often  the  case,  the  difference  of  local  names,  may  at 
subsequent  periods,  be  productive  of  much  contention,  and  some- 
times of  serious  injuries,  I  am,  therefore,  induced  to  give  the  Uni- 
versal Botanical  names  first,  in  the  succeeding  part  of  the  general 
catalogue,  not  doubting  but  that  in  the  course  of  some  time,  they 
will  become  as  familiar  as  the  names  Aloe,  Anemone,  Geranium, 
Convolvulus,  Asparagus,  Crocus,  &c. 

%*  The  climbing  or  twining  plants,  best  adapted  for  the  covering  of  walls 
and  arbours,  are  marked  thus  * 

•   s  I 

Acer  rubrum,  Scarlet  Maple 

„  argenteum   .  „  Silvery-leaved  do. 

,,  Negundo  ,,  A.sh-leaved  do. 

„  sacbarinum  -  „  True  Sugar  do. 

„  canadense  ,,  Canadian  Striped  do. 

,,  pensylvanicum  ,,  Pennsylvanian  do. 

„  montanum  ,,  Mountain  do. 

,,  Pseudo-platanus  ,,  European  Sycamore 

Msculusfiava  Yellow-flowering  Horse  Chesnut 

,,  Hippocastanum  ,,  European  do. 

„  Pavia  ,,  Scarlet-flowering 

„  spicata   (of  Bartram)  \  Dwarf  do 

„  macrostacbya  (of  Michaux)  3          »  m ' 


DECIDUOUS  TREES  AND  SHRUBS. 


598 


Amorpbafruticosa 
Amygdalus  nana 
,,  putnila 

,,  Persica,flore  plena 
Andromeda  arborect 
,,  tna.ria.na 
„  paniculata 
,,  racemosa 
,,  calyculata 
^ferruginea,  &c. 
Annona  triloba 
Aralia  spinosa 
* Aristolocbia  Sipbo 
Azalea  nudiflora 
„  v.  coccinea 
,,  v.  rutilans 
„  v. carnea 

v.  alba 
,  bicolor 

,  v.  paplionacea 
v.  partita 
viscosa 
v.  odorata 
v.  vittata 
,  v.  fissa 
,  v.  floribunda 

v.  glauca 
JBetula  nigra 

„  papyracea 
„  excels  a 
,,  populifolia 
„  lent  a 
,,  pinnila 
„  alba 

,,  v.  pendula 
,,  nana 
,,  Alnus 
,,  serrulata 
Herberts  canadensis 
JBignonia  Catalpa 
„  *  radicafts 
,,  *  crucigcra 
Calycantbusjloridus 

,,ferax 
Carpinus  Ostrya 

„  virginiana 

,,  Betulus 

,,  duinensis 
Ceanotbus  americanus 
*Celastrus  scandans 

,,  btillatus 
Celtis  accidentally 

,,  australis 

Cephalantbns  occidentals 
Cercis  canadensis 

„  Siliquastrum 
Chionanthus  virginica 
*Clematis  virginiana 

„  *  crispa 

,,  *  Viorna 


Carolina  Bastard  Indig-o 

Common  Dwarf  Almond 

Double-flowering  Dwarf  do. 

Double-flowering-  Peach 

Tree  Andromeda 

Maryland  do. 

1'aniculated  da. 

Branching-  do. 

Globe-flowered  do. 

Rusty  do. 

Hardy  Papaw,  or  Custard  Apple 

Angelica-tree,  Prickly  Ash 

Climbing  Broad-leaved  Birthwort 

Upright  American  Honeysuckle 

Deep  Scarlet  do. 

Deep  Red  do. 

Pale  Red  do. 

Early  White  do. 

Red  and  White  do. 

Variegated  do. 

Downy  do. 

Viscous  do. 

Common  White  do. 

White-striped  do. 

Narrow-petaled  White  do. 

Cluster-flowered  do. 

Glaucous  do. 

Black  American  Birch 

,,  Paper  do. 

„  Tall  do. 
Poplar-leaved  do. 
Canadian  do. 

American  Hairy  Dwarf  do. 
Common  European  do. 
Drooping  do. 
European  Dwarf  do 
European  Alder 
Pennsylvanian  Alder 
Canadian  Berberry 
Common  Catalpa 
Scarlet  Trumpet  Flower 
Cross-bearing  do. 
Carolina  Allspice,  or   Sweet-scented 

Shrub 

Pennsylvania  do. 
Hop  Hornbeam 
Flowering  do. 
Common  European  do. 
Dwarf  do. 
New  Jersey  Tea 
Climbing-  Staff-tree 
Studded  do. 
American  Nettle-tree 
European  do. 
Marsh  Button-wood 
Judas  Tree,  Red-bud    - 
European  do. 
Fringe  Tree 

Virginian  Virgin's  Bowe? 
Curled  do. 
Leathery.flowered  do. 


590  A  CATALOGUE  OF  HARD.Y 

*Clernatis  orientally  Oriental  Virgin's  Bower 

„  Vitalba     .  English  do. 

Clethra  alnjfolia-  Alder-leaved  Clethra 

,,  paniculata  Paniculatetl  do. 

Colutea  arborcscens  Bladder  Sena 

„  crventa  Oriental  do. 

,,  Pocockii  Pocock's  do. 

Comptonia  asplenifolia  Sweet  Fern,  or  Fern-leaved  Comptonia 

Coriaria  myrtifulia  Myrtle-leaved  Sumach 

Cornus florida  Great-flowered  Dog'wood. 

,,  aiternifolia  Alternate-leaved  do. 

„  sericea  Blue-berried  do. 

„  alba  White-berried  do. 

„  circinata  Pennsylvania  do. 

,,  stricta  Upright  do. 

„  paniculata  Panicled  do. 

,,  sanguined                     ,  Red-twigged  do. 

,,  mascuta  Cornelian  Cherry 

Coronilla  Emeres  Scorpion  Sena 

Crataegus  Aria  White-beam  Tree 

„  torminalis  Wild  Service  or  Sorb 

„  virides  Green-leaved  Virginian  Hawthoi^ 

„  Azarolus  Parsley-leaved  Azarole 

(for  other  species,  see  page  147-.J 

Cvpressv.s  distitba  Deciduous  or  Bald  Cypress 

Cytisus  Laburnum  Laburnum 

„  sessilifolius  Sessile-leaved  Cytissus 

Daphne  Mezereuvn  Red  Mezereon 

,,  v.  album  White  do. 

„  alpina  Alpine  Daphne 

„  Cneorum  Trailing  Daphne 

Diospyros  <virginiana  Persimmon,  or  American  Date -plum 

,,  Lotus  European  Date  Plum 

Dirca  palustris  Marsh  Leather- wood 

.jLlceagnus  angustifolia  Narrow-leaved  Oleaster 

v.  spinosa  Thorny  do.                                     [bush. 

Euonymus  americanus  Evergreen   Spindle-tree,    or  Burning- 

,,  carolinensis  Carolina  Spindle-tree 

,,  atropurpureus  Purple-flowered  do. 

„  europ&us  European  do. 

„  latifolius         .  Broad-leaved  do. 

„  verrucosns  Warted  do. 

Fagus  sylvatica  European  Beech 

,,ferruginea  American  do. 

,,  Castanea  Spanish  Chesnut 

„  v.  ai-nericana  American  do. 

,,  pumila  Chinquapin  do. 

Fothergilla  alnifolia  Alder-leaved  Fothergilla 
Franklinia  alatamaha,  of  Bariram.   7  T-      11-- 
GardaniaFranklini,  (ofU  Heritier}$  Franklima 

Fraxinits  tUgra  Black  American  Ash 

,,  alba  White  do. 

,,  caroliniana  Red  do. 

„  excelsior  Common  European  do. 

„  v.  pendula  Drooping  do. 

„  v.  integrifolis^  Entire-leaved  do. 

„  Ornus  True  Manna,  or  flowering  do.,, 

„  rotundtfolia  Round-leaved  Manna  do. 

Gleditsia  triacantkos  Honey  Locust 

v.  horrida  Long-spined  do. 

V.  monosperina  One-seeded  do. 


DECIDUOUS  TREES  AND  SHRUBS. 


591 


v.  inermis 
Glycintfrutescens 
Guilandinia  dioica 

Halesia  tetraptera 

,,  diptera    . 
Hamamelis  virgmica 
*  Hedefa  quinquefolia 
Hibiscus  syriacus 

Hippopbae  Rhamnoides 

,,  canadensis 
Hydrangea  arb.orescens 

,,  rudiata 

Hypericum  kalmianum 
*yasminum  officznale 

,,fruticans 
Ilex  Prinoides 
Itea  virginica 

„  Cyrilla 
Juglans  nigra 

,,  cinerea 

,,  oblong d 

„  compress  a 

,,  alba 

v.  ovata 

•v.  minima  amara 

,,  Pecan 

„  Regia 
Laurus  Sassafras 

,,  aestivalis 

,,  Benzoin 
Ligustrum  vulgare 
Liquidainber  styraciflua 
Liriodendror*  'Tuliptftra 
Lonicera  Dier villa 

„  Syinpboricarpos 

„  *  Periclymenum 

„  *  Capnfolium 
Magnolia  glauca 

„  acuminata 

„  tripetala 

,,  auriculata 

,,  grandifolia 
*  Menispennum  canadense 

„  *  virginicum 
Mespilus  canadensis 

„  arbutifolia 

,,  Atnelanchier 

„  Cbaimnae-  Mespilus 

,,  Cotonea&ter 

,,  tomentosa 
Mimosa  Julibrissin 
Morns  papyrifera 

„  alba 

„  v.  americana 

„  nigra 

,,  rubra 

Myrica  cerifera 
Nyssa  integrifoli  (of  Alton) 

„  denticulata  (do.} 


Thornless  do. 
Carolina  Kidney-bean  Tree 
Hardy  Buiuloc,  or  Kentucky  Coffee- 
Tree 

Four-winged  Snow-drop  Tree 
Two-winged  do. 
Witch  Hazel 
Virginian  Ivy,  or  Creeper 
Althaea  Frutex,  (many  varieties  double 
and  single) 

Sea  Buckthorn 

Canadian  do. 

Shrubby  Hydrangea 

Downy  do. 

Kalmia-leaved  St.  John't>-.vort 

Common  white  Jasmine 

Common  Yellow  do. 

Deciduous  Holly 

Virginian  Itea 

Entire-leaved  do. 

Black  Walnut 

Butter-nut 

Long-fruited  Hickery 

Shag-barked  do. 

Common  White  do. 

Shell-barked^do. 

Pig-nut  do.  I 

Illinois-nut 

European  Walnut 

Common  Sassafras 

Spice-wood 

Benjamin  Tree 

Common  Privet 

Sweet  Gum 

Tulip  Tree,  Poplar 

Yellow  Upright  Honeysuckle 

St.  Peter's-wort 

Common  English  Honeysuckle 

Italian  Honeysuckle 

Glaucus,  or  Swamp  Magnolia 

Cucumber  Tree 

Umbrella  Tree 

Ear-leaved  Magnolia 

Long-leaved  do. 

Canadian  Moonseed 

Virginian  do. 

Snowy  Medlar 

Arbutus-leaved  do. 

Alpine  do. 

Bastard  do. 

Dwarf  do. 

Quince-leaved  do. 

Smooth  Tree  Mimosa 

Paper  Mulberry 

White  Italian  do. 

White  American  do. 

Black  do, 

Red  do. 

Candleberry  Myrt'e 

Sour-gum,  Tupelo  T.ee 

Water  do. 


592 


A  CATALOGUE  OF  HARDY 


Onor.is  fruticosa 
*Periploca  graeca 
Pbiladelpbits  inodorus 

„  coronarius 
Pinus  Larix 

,,  pendula  (of  Alton) 
„  rubra 
Platanus  occidentalis 

,,  orientalis 
Populus  alba 
„  tremula 
,,  treinuloides 
„  nigra 
„  dilatata 
„  balsamifera 
,,  candicans 
„  l&oigala 
,,  tnonilifera 
„  grxca 
,,  hcteropbylla 
,,  angulata 
Potentilla  fruticosa 
Prinos  verticillatus 

,,  l&vigatus 
Prunus  virginiana 
,,  canadensis 
,,  angustifolia 
,,  pumila 
Padus 
,  rubra 
spinosa 
,  insititia 
Mabaleb 

>  pygrntca  (of  Willdeno=u) 
Ptelia  tnfoliata 
Pyrus  coronaria 
„  angustifolia 

„  prunifolia  ( of  Willdenaw ) 
,,  salicifolia 
„  spectabilis 

$>uercus  obtysiloba  (of  MicLaux) 
,,  tnacrocarpa          (do.) 
,,  lyrata  (do.) 

„  alba  (do.) 

„  prinus,  \.  palustris  (do.) 
v.  monticola        (do.) 
v.  acuminata    .  (do.) 
,  v.  pumila  (do.) 

ttmentosa  (do.) 

,  pbello*  (d°J 

v.  sylvatica 
,  v.  pumila 
cinerca 
imbriearia 
,  laurifolia 


aquatica 

nigra 

tinctoria 

sinuosa 

triloba 

v.  Banisteri 


(do.) 
(do.) 
(do.) 
(do.) 
(do.) 
(do.) 
(do.) 
(do.) 
(do) 
(do.) 
(doj 


Shrubby  Rest-Harrow 

Virginian  Silk  Tree 

Carolina  Syring-a 

Mock-Orange  do. 

White  Larch 

Black  Drooping-  do. 

Red  Larch 

Plane-tree,  Large  Button-wood 

Oriental  do. 

White  Poplar 

Trembling  do.  or  Aspin 

Aspin-like  do. 

Black  do. 

Lombardy  do. 

Balsam  do.  Tacamahaca 

Heart-leaved  Tacamahaca 

Smooth  Poplar 

Canadian  do. 

Athenian  do. 

Various-leaved  do. 

Carolina  do. 

Shrubby  Cinquefoil 

Winter-berry,  Black  Alder 

Smooth-leaved  do. 

Common  Bird  or  Wild  Cherry 

Canadian  do. 

Narrow -leaved  do. 

Dwarf  Canadian  do. 

European  Bird-Cherry 

Cornish  do. 

Black-thorn,  or  Sloe-tree 

Bullace  Plum 

Perfumed  Cherry 

American  Pigmy-plum 

Shrubby  Trefoil 

Sweet-scented  Crab 

Narrow-leaved  do. 

Siberian  Crab 

Willow-leaved  do. 

Chinese  Apple-tree 

Upland  White,  or  Iron  Oak 

Overcup  White  Oak 

Water  White  Oak 

Common  White  do. 

Swamp  Chesnut  Oak 

Mountain  do 

Narrow-leaved  do. 

Chinquapin  do. 

Downy-leaved  do. 

Willow-leaved  Oak 

Common  Marsh  do. 

Dwarf  do. 

Upland  willow  Oak 

Shingle  do. 

Laurel-leaved  Oak 

Carolina  Water  Oak 

Black  Oak 

Champlam  Black  Oak 

Sinuatecl-leaved  do. 

Downy  Black  Oak 

Banister's  Dwarf  Oak 


DECIDUOUS  TREES  AND  SHRUBS. 


593 


$>uercu3  falcata  (ofMichaux) 

„  catesbxi  (do.) 

„  coccinea  (do.) 

,,  palustrit  (do.) 

„  rubra  (do.) 

„  Robur 

„  JEgilops 

,,  Esculus 
Rbamnus  Frangula 

,,  paliurus 

„  catbarticus 
Rbodora  canadensis 
Rbus  glabrum 

„  Copallinutn 

„  typbinum 

,,  Vernix 

,,  radicans 
,,  Toxicodendron 
,,  Metopium 
,,  Coriaria 

,,  Cotinus 
Ribes  oxyacantboidet 

„  cynobasti 

Robinia  Pseudo-Acacia 
,,glutinosa 
,,  bispida 
},  Caragana 
,,  spinosa 
Rosa  berberifolla 
„  lute  a 
„  sulphur ea 
„  blanda 
,,  cinnamonea 
„  arvensis 
,,  pimpinellifolia 
j>  spinosissima 
,,  v.  ^ommunis 
,,  v.fl.  rub. 
„  v.  fl  varieg. 
,,  v.  fl.  plen. 

„  parviflora  (Willd.)     ") 
,, pensylvanica  (Wang.)) 
„  lucida  (Willd.) 
,,  Carolina 
,,  villosa 
„  rugosa 
,,  provinciali* 
j»  v. 

,,  v.  flore  rubra 
,,  v.  incarnata 
„  v.  alba 

„  v.  de  Meaux  major 
„  v  de  Meaux  minor 
„  centifolia 
»  v. 
»  v. 
»  v. 
„  v. 

j>  V. 
»  Y. 


Downy  Red  Oak 

Sandy  Red  Oak 

Scarlet  Oak 

Swamp  Red  Oak 

Red  Oak 

English  Oak 

Large  Prickly-cupped  Oak 

Italian  small        do.      do. 

Berry-bearing  Alder. 

Christ's  Thorn 

Purging  Buckthorn 

Canada  Rhodora 

Smooth  Sumack 

Lentiscus-leaved  do. 

Stag's-horn  do. 

Varnish-Tree 

Poison -vine,  or  Ash 

Poison  Oak 

Gum-beariug  Sumack 

Tanners  Sumack 
Venetian      do. 
Hawthorn-leaved  Gooseberry 

Prickly-fruited  do. 

Common  Locust-tree 
Glutinous -twigged  do. 
Rose  Acacia 

Siberian  Acacia 
Thorny  Robinia 

Single-leaved  Rose 

Single  Yellow  Austrian  Rose 

Double  Yellow      do. 

Hudson's  Bay        do. 

Cinnamon  Rose 

White  Dog  Rose 

Small- Burnet-leaved  do. 

Scotch  Rose 

Common  Scotch  do. 

Red  Scotch  do. 

Striped  flowered  do. 

Double  Scotch  do. 

Small  flowered   American,  or  Penn« 

sylvania  do. 

Shining-leaved  American  do. 
Carolina  Rose 
Apple  Rose 
Wrinkled -leaved  Rose 
Common  Province  Rose 
Childing's  do. 
Red  or  Scarlet  do. 
Blush  Province  do. 
White-Province  do. 
Great  Rose  de  MeauX 
Pompone  Rose 
Hundred-leaved  Rose 
Dutch  Hundred-leaved  do. 
Blush  Hundred-leaved  do. 
Singleton's  Hundred-leaved  do. 
Burgundy  Rose 
Single-velvet  Rose 
Double-velvet  Rose 
4  c 


594 


A  CATALOGUE  OF  HARDY 


»,  v. 

„  gallica 

„  v.  vefsicolor 

„  v. 

";' 

„  damascena 

»  v. 

,,  v.  versicolor 
„  v.  calandarum 
,,  v.  italica 
„  v.  belgica 
„  v. 
»  v. 

,,  pumila 
,,  turbinata 
,,  rubiginosa. 
„  v.  eglantina 
,»  v. 
v. 

V. 
V. 
V. 

v. 

muscosa 
mo&cbata 
v. 

rubrifolia 
lagenaria 
alpina 
pyrenaica 
pendulina 
,  tnontana 
multiflora 
canina 
tomentosa 
collina 
parvifolia 
longjfolia 
a/^cr,  v.  pleno 
v. 


semperflorens  (tender} 
cbinensis  (tender  J 


,,  indie  a  ( tender ) 

„  palustris 
jRubus  odoratus 

,,fruticosus,  v.  plenus 
Salisburia  adiantifolia 
Salix  babylonica 

"  arbutifolia 

,,  vitelltna 

Samtmcus  pubens 
,,  canadensis 


Sultan  Rose 

Stepney  Rose 

Garnet  Rose 

Bishop  Rose 

Lisbon  Rose 

Red-officinal  Rose 

Mundi  Rose 

Marble  Rose 

Virgin  Rose 

Red  Damask  Rose 

Blush  do. 

York  and  Lancaster  do. 

Red  Monthly  do. 

White  Monthly  do. 

Blush  Belgic  do. 

Great  Royal  do. 

Imperial  Damask  do. 

Dwarf  Austrian  Rose         * 

Frankfort  Rose 

Sweet-Briar 

Common  do. 

Double-Flowered  do. 

Mossy  Double  do. 

Marble  Double  do. 

Red  Double  do. 

Royal  do. 

Yellow  do. 

Moss  Province  Rose 

Single  Musk  Rose 

Double  do. 

Red-leaved  Rose 

Bottle-fruited  Rose 

Alpine  Rose 

Pyrenean  Rose 

Pendulous  Rose 

Mountain  Rose 

Many-flowered  Rose 

Dog-Rose,  or  Dog-Briar 

Downy-leaved  dok 

Hill  Rose 

Small-leaved  do. 

Long-leaved  do. 

Double-White  Rose 

Small  Maiden's  Blush  do. 

Large      do.          do. 

Cluster    do.          do. 

Small  Burnet  do.  do. 

Everblowing  Rose 

Pale  China  do.  commonly  called  Ota- 

heite  Rose 
Indian  Rose 
Swamp  Rose 
Flowering  Raspberry 
Double-flowering  Bramble 
Maiden-hair  Tree 
Drooping  Willow 
Arbutus -leaved  do. 
Golden    Willow ;    with    about    fifty 

other  species 
Hairy  Elder 
Canada  Red-berried  Elder 


DECIDUOUS  TREES  AND  SHRUBS. 


595 


,  idgra 

,  v.  viridis 
,  v.  alba 
,  v.  laciniata 
,  racemosa 
Sideroxylon  tenax 

,,  lycioides 
Smilax  cadiica 
Solanum  Dulcamara 
Sorbus  americana 
,,  aucupariq 
„  hybrida 
,,  domestic  a 
Spartium  scopariinn, 
Spiraea  opulifolia 
,,  bypericifolia 
„  crenata 
,,  laevigata 
„  salicifolia 
,»  tomentosa 
Stapbylea  trifoliata 

,,  pinna  ta 
Stuartia  Malacodendron 

,,  pentagyna 
Styrax  grandifolium 

„  laevigatum 
Syringa  vulgris,  v.  alba 
„  v.  purpurea 
,,  persica 
Yatnarix  gallica 
,,  germanica 
Teucriumflavum 
Tilia  americana 
„  caroliniana 
„  euroftea 
*  „  pubescens 

„  alba 

Ulmus  americana 
,,  v.  rubra 
,,  v.  alba 
„  v.  pendula 
„  mollifolia 
,,  putniLa 
„  nemoralis 
,,  campestris, 
„  v.  stricta 
„  v.  latifolia 
„  v.  glabra 
„  v.  fungosa 
Vaccinium  stamineutn. 
,,  glaucum 
,,  disomorphum, 
,,  resinosum 
,,  corymbosuni 
,,  arboreum 
„  Myrtillus 
„  Vitis  idxa 


,,  album 

„  macrocarpon 

„  Oxycoccos 


Common  European  Eldec 

Green-berried  do. 

White-berried  do. 

Parsley-leaved  do. 

European  Red-berried  do. 

Silvery -leaved  Iron-wood 

Willo\v-leaved  do. 

Deciduous  Smilax 

Woody  Nightshade 

American  Service,  or  Roane  Tree 

European  do. 

Bastard  do. 

True  Service,  or  Sorb 

English  Broom 

Nine-bark 

Hypericum-leaved  Spii 

Hawthorn -leaved  Spiraea 

Smooth-leaved  Spirxa 

Willow-leaved  do. 

Scarlet  Spiraea 

Three-leaved  Bladder-Nut 

Five -leaved  do. 

Common  Stuartia- 

Distinct  Styled  do. 

Great-leaved  Storax-Tree 

Smooth-leaved  do. 

White  Lilac 
Blue  Lilac 

Persian  Lilac 

French  Tamarisk 

German  do. 

Tree  Germander 
American  Black  Lime-Tree 
Oblique-leaved  do. 
European  Lime-Tree 
Pubescent  do. 
White  do. 

Large  rough-leaved  American  Elm 
Red  American  do. 
White  American  do. 
Drooping  American  do. 
Tender-leaved  Elm 
Dwarf  do. 

Hornbeam-leaved  do. 
English  Elm 
Cornish  do. 
Witch  or  Scotch  do. 
Smooth-leaved  do. 
Dutch  do. 

Green-twigged  Huckle-ber*y 
Silvery-leaved  do. 
Variable  do. 
Clammy  do. 
Cluster-flowered  do. 
Tree  do. 

European  do.  or  Bill-berry   • 
European  Red  do. 
Obtuse-leaved  do. 
White -fruited  do. 
Common  Cranberry 
European  Cranberry  or  Bog-berry, 
(with  many  other  species) 


596  A  CATALOGUE  OF  HARDY 

Viburnum  nudum  Oval-leaved  Viburnum 

,  opulus  americanum  Guelder-Rose-leaved  do. 

,  prunifolium  Plum-leaved  do. 

,  Uvigatum  Cassioberry  Bush 

,  Cassinoides  Thick-leaved  Viburnum 

Lentago  Pear-leaved  do. 

,  dcntatum  Dentated-leaved  do. 

acerifolium  Maple-leaved  do. 

,  alnifolium  Alder-leaved  do. 

.  arboreum  Tree  do. 

,  Opulus  European  Guelder  Rose,  or  Snow -ball 

Vitex  Agnus  Castus  Chaste  Tree 

Zanthorbiza  apiifolia  Parsley -leaved  Zanthorhiza 

Zantboxylum  fraxinifolium  Ash-leaved  Tooth-ack  Tree 


HARDY  EVERGREEN  TREES  AND  SHRUBS. 

The  kinds  marked  thus  *  are  climbing  plants,  and  those  mark- 
ed thus  t  being  somewhat  tender,  will  require  to  be  planted  in  a 
warm  soil  and  well  sheltered  situation  (in  the  eastern  and  middle 
states)  the  better  to  enable  them  to  bear  the  seventy  of  the  winter 
frosts. 

There  are  a  great  number  of  evergreen  and  deciduous  trees  and 
shrubs,  not  mentioned  in  this  sub-division,  or  in  the  preceding  part 
of  the  General  Catalogue,  that  will  thrive  in  the  open  ground  de- 
partments pretty  generally  in  the  southern  states,  which  in  the 
middle  and  eastern  states,  at  least,  until  gradually  inured  to  the 
climates,  must  be  treated  as  Green-House  plants  ;  in  the  list  of 
which,  they  are  pointed  out  by  a  significant  mark. 

Arbutus  Uva  ursi  Trailing  Arbutus,  Bear -berry 

*Bignonia  pubescens  Pubescent  Bignonia 

Buxus  sempervirens  Box-tree 

,,  v.  arborescens  Tree-box 

,,  v.  angustifolia  Narrow-leaved  do. 

„  v.  suffrutioosa  Dwarf  do. 

* Clematis  cirrhosa  Evergreen  Virgin's  Bower 

Cupressus  Tkyoides  White   Cedar,  or  Arbor- Vitae-leaved 

Cypress 

Daphne  Laureola  Evergreen  Spurge  Laurel 

jEipigxa  repent  Creeping  Epigxa 

Gaultberia  procumbcns  Mountain  Tea,  or  Tea-berry 

*Hedera  Helix  European  Ivy 

Ilex  opaca  Carolina  or  American  Holly 

„  Aquifolium  European  do.    . 

„  v.  heterophylla  Various-leaved  do. 

„  v.  crassifolia  Thick-leaved  do. 

„  v.  recurva  Slender  do. 

,,  v.  ferox  Hedge-hog  do.  (with  numerous  other 

varieties,  striped,  blotched.  &c.) 

Juniperus  virginiana  Common  Red  Cedar 

„  Sabina,  Savin 

„  daurica  Siberian  Juniper 

„  t  tburifera  Spanish  Juniper 


EVERGREEN  TREES  AND  SHRUBS. 


597 


,,  t  cblnensis 

},  f  Oxycfdrus 

„  f  Lycia 

,,  \phanicea 

,,  communif 

,,  v.  suecia 
Kabnia  latifolia 

„  angustifolia 

„  glauca 

,,  -\'hirsuta 
Leaum  tbymifolium 

,,  palustre 

,,  latifulium 
Ligustrum  italicum 
Lonicera  grata 

,,  sempervirens* 
•\Magnolia  grandljlora 
\Phillyrea  media 

,,  fv.  ligustrinifolia 

,,  f  v.  oleaefolia 

,,  fv.  pendula 

,,  f  v.  buxifolia 

,,  f  angustifolia 

„  f  v.  lanceolata 

,,  f  v.  rosmarinifolia 

,  ,  f  latifolia 

„  f  v.  laevis 

,,  f  v.  spinosa 

„  f  v.  obliqua 
Pinus  Tceda,  v.  tenuifolia 

,,  v.  rigida 

,,  v.  variabilis 

„  v.  alopecuroides 

,,  Strobus 

„  inops 

,,  resinosa 

„  Pine  a 

,,  palustris 

,,  Cembra 


,,  Pinaster 

,,  sylvestris 

,,  v.  tartarica 

,,  v.  montana 

„  v.  divaricata 

,,  v.  maritima 

„  Picea 

,,  Balsamea 

„  canadensis 

„  nigra 

,,  alba 

,,  Abies 

Polygala  Cbanuebuxus 
Prittos  glabra 
^Prunus  caroliniana 
Rhododendron  maximum 

>>ferruginea 
,,  dauricum 
,,  birsutum 
,,  cbrysanthwn 


Chinese  Juniper 
Brown-berried  do. 
Lycian  do.  or  Cedar 
Phenecian  do. 
Common  Juniper 
Sxvedish  do. 

Broad-leaved  Kalmia  or  Laurel 
Narrow-leaved  do. 
Glaucus-leaved  do. 
Hairy  do. 

Thyme-leaved  Ledum 
Marsh  Ledum 
Broad-leaved  do. 
Italian  Evergreen  Privet 
Evergreen  Honeysuckle 
Carolina  Trumpet  do. 
Laurel-leaved  Magnolia 
Lance-leaved  Phillyrea 
Privet-leaved  do. 
Olive-leaved  do. 
Drooping  do. 
Box-leaved  do. 
Narrow-leaved  do. 
Common  narrow-leaved  do. 
Rosemary-leaved  do. 
Broad-leaved  do. 
Smooth-leaved  do. 
Prickly  do. 
Ilex-leaved  do. 
Frankincense  Pine 
Three  leaved  Viginian  do. 
Two  and  Three-leaved  do. 
Fox-tail  Pine 
White  Pine 
Jersey  Pine. 
Pitch  Pine 
Stone  Pine 
Swamp  Pine 
Siberian  Stone  do. 
Cedar  of  Labanon 
Pinaster  or  Cluster  Pine 
Scotch  Pme 
Tartarian  Pine 
Mountain  or  Mugho  do. 
Hudson's  Bay  do. 
Sea  Pine 
Silver  Fir 

Balm  of  Gillead  Fir 
Hemlock  Spruce  Fir 
Black  Spruce  Fir 
White  Spruce  Fir 
Norway  Spruce  Fir 
Box-leaved  Milkwort 
Evergreen  Winter-berry 
Evergieen  Bird  Cherry- 
Broad- leaved  Rhododendron,   or 

Mountain  Laurel 
Rusty-leaved  Rhododendron 
Dotted- leaved  do. 
Hairy  do. 
Dwarf  do. 


This  is  not  truly  evergreen. 


598  A  CATALOGUE  OF  HARDY  BULBOUS 

„  Cbam&cistus  Austrian  Rhododendron, 

,,  caucasicum  Mount  Caucasus  do. 

,,  camtscbaticum  '    Kamptschatka  do. 

JRofa  sempervirens  Evergreen  Rose 

1'itscus  aculeatus  Prickly  Butcher's  Broom 

fruticoaa  Stone-crop  Tree 

Cbam<e-Cyparis$'us  Lavender-Cotton 


*Smilax  rotuixlifolia  Canadian  Round-leaved  Smilax 

,,  *  laurifolia  Bay-leaved  do. 

,,  *  tamnoides  Bryony-leaved  rough  do. 

,,  *  bona  nox  Ciliated  or  Prickly  -leaved  Smilax 

j,  *  lanceolata  Spear-leaved  do. 

,,  *  Pseudo  China  Bastard  Chinese  do. 

„  *  Sarsaparilla  Medicinal   Smilax,   or  True  Sarsa- 

parilla 

„  *  virglniana  Lance-leaved  rough  do. 

faxtis  haccata  European  Yew  Tree 

,,  canadensis  Canadian  do. 

Vbuja  occidentalis  American  Arbor  Vitje 

,,  ortentalis  Chinese  do. 

*Vinca  major  Large  Periwinkle 

M  minor  Small  do. 


HARDY  BULBOUS  AND  TUBEROUS  ROOTED  FLOWERING 

PLANTS, 

Which  will  endure  the  winter  frosts  of  the  middle  and  eastern 
states,  in  the  open  ground.     Those  marked  thus*  will  in  severe 

seasons  require  some  kind  of  covering  to  protect  them  from  in- 
tense frosts,  but  particularly  the  Ranunculuses  ai)d  Anemones* 

Adoxa  Moscbatellina  Tuberous  Moschatel 

Alliiim  Molly  Yellow  Garlick  or  Molly 

,,  odorntn-  Sweet-scented  Garlick 

,,  oleraceum  Purple -striped  do. 

,,  rosevm  Rose  do. 

„  descendens  Purple-headed  do. 

,,  magicum  Homer's  Molly  or  Garlicfc 

Amaryllis  lutea  Yellow  Amaryllis 

,,  *  Atainasco  Atamasco  Lily 

* Anemone  hortensis  Garden  Anemone  (many  varieties) 

Arefbusa  bulbo&a  Bulbous  Arethusa 

Colcbicum  autumnale  Meadow  Saffron  (double  and  single) 

,,  inontanum  Mountain  do. 

Claytonia  -virginica  Virginian  Claytonia 

Crocus  vernus  m         Spring  Crocus  (many  varieties) 

„  officinatis  Officinal  do.  or  True  Saffron 

„  susianus  Cloth  of  Gold  Crocus 

Tritillaria  imperialif  Crown  Imperial  (many  varieties) 

„  persica  Persian  Fritillary  or  Lily 

,,  Meleagris  Chequered  Fritillary 

,,pyrenriica  Black  Fritillary 

Brytbroniitm  Dens  Canis  Dog-tooth  Violet 

„  americanum  American  Erythronium 


AND  TUBEROUS  ROOTED  FLOWERING  PLANTS.         599 


Fumaria  Cucullaria 

,,  bulbosa 

,,  cava  ' 

Galantbus  nivalus 
Gladiolus  comvnunus 

„  segetum 
2£yacintbus  orientalis 

,,  tnonstrpsus 

,,  comosus 

„  non  scriptus 
,  cernuus 

serotinus 
,  ametbystinus 
rotnanus 
muscari 
,  botryoides 
racemosus 
Heleborus  byemalis 
Hypoxis  erecta 
Iris  Xifbium 

„  xipbioides  (of  Curtis) 

,,  tuber -osa 

„  persica 

„  *  Sisyrinchium 
Leucoium,  vernum 

,,  eestivum 

,,  autumnale 
Lilium  candidum 

,,  chalcedonicum 

,,  bulbiferum 

,,  potnponiutu 

,,  superbum 

,,  Mart  agon 

,,  canadense 

,,  pbiladelpbicum 

,,  Catesbxi 

„  camscbatcense 
Limodorum  tuber osum 
Narcissus  poeticus 

,,  Pseudo-Narcissus 

,,  bicolor 

,,  minor 

„  biflorus 

„  triandrus 

,,  or  tent  ali  s 

,,  odorus 

„  *  STrtzetfa 

„  Bulbocodium 

,,  Jonquilta 

„  serotinus 

,,  moscbatus 
Ophrys  spiralii 

,,  liltfolia 

„  Manor cbis 

„  hyemalis 

,  paludosa 

,  muscifera 

,  alpina 
monophyllos 
apifera 
Orchis  bifolia 


Naked-stalked  Fumitory 

Bulbous  Fumitory 

Hollow-rooted  do. 

Spring  Snowdrop 

European  Corn-flag 

Round-seeded  do. 

Garden  Hyacinth  (many  varieties) 

Monstrous  or  Feathered  do. 

Two-coloured  do. 

European  Harebells 

Bending  Hyacinth 

Late-flowering  do. 

Amethyst-coloured  do. 

Roman  Grape  do. 

Mask  do. 

Blue  Grape  do. 

Clustered  grape  do. 

Winter  Helebore  or  Aconite 

Upright  Hypoxis 

Spanish  Flag,  or  Bulbous  Iris 

Pyrenean  Flag  do. 

Snake's-head  Iris 

Dwarf  Persian  Iris 

Crocus -rooted  do. 

Great  Spring  Snowdrop 

Summer  do. 

Autumnal  do. 

Common  White  Lily 

Scarlet  Martagon  do. 

Bulb-bearing  or  Orange  do. 

Pomponean  do. 

Superb  Lily 

Purple  Martagon  do. 

Canada  Martagon  do. 

Philadelphia  do. 

Catesby's  Lily 

Kamptschatka  do. 

Tuberous-rooted  Linaodorura 

Poetic  or  White  Narcissus 

Common  Daffodil 

Two-coloured  Narcissus 

Small  Narcissus 

Two-flowered  do. 

Rush-leaved  do. 

Oriental  do. 

Sweet-scented  do. 

Polyanthus  Narcissus 

Hoop-petticoat  do. 

Jonquil  (single  and  double) 

Late-flowering  Narcissus 

Musk-scented  do. 

Spiral  Ophys  or  Lady's  Traces 

Lily-leaved  Ophrys 

Yellow  or  Musk  do. 

Adam  and  Eve  do. 

Marsh  Ophyrs 

Fly  do. 

Alpine  do. 

One-leaved  do. 

Bee  Ophrys 

Butterfly  Orchis 


600 


A  CATALOGUE  OF  HARDY  PERENNIAL 


„  globosa 

„  pyramidcitts 

„  mascula 

„  militaris 

„  latifolia 

,,  ciliaris 

,,  odoratissima 

t,Jlava 
Ornitbogalnm  luteum 

„  pyramidale 

„  stacbyodes 

„  latifalium 

,,  umbellatu'in 
Oxalis  violacea 
Pacnia  officinalis 

,,  albiflora 

t,  laciniata 

,,  hybrida 

„  tenuifolia 

*  Pancratium  maritimum 

*  Ranunculus  asiaticus 

,,  bulbosus,  flo.  plen. 
Sanguinaria  canadense 
Scilla  italica 

„  campanulata 

„  b if  oil a 

„  aututnnalis 

,,  peruviana 

Tbalictrum  anemonoides 
lulipa  gesneriana 

„  sylvestris 


Round-spiked  Orchis 

Pyramidal  Orchis 

Male  or  Early  Spotted  do. 

Man  Orchis 

Broad-leaved  Marsh  do. 

Fringed-flowered  do. 

Sweet-scented  do. 

Yellow  do. 

Yellow  Star  of  Bethlehem 

Pyramidal  do. 

Close-spiked  do. 

Broad-leaved  do. 

Umbelled  do. 

Purple  Oxalis 

Common  Peony 

White-flowered  do. 

Jag-g-ed-leaved  do. 

Mule  do. 

Slender  leaved  do. 

Sea  Pancratium 

Garden  Ranunculus  (many  varieties) 

DouWe  Bulbous  Crowfoot 

Puccoon,  Indian  Paint 

Italian  Squil 

Spanish  Squil 

Two-leaved  Spring  do. 

Autumnal  do. 

Spanish  Starry  Hyacinth 

Anemone-like  Thalictrum 

Garden  Tulip  (many  varieties) 

Italian  Yellow  Tulip 


HARDY  PERENNIAL  AND  BIENNIAL  FIBROUS  ROOTED 
FLOWERING    PLANTS, 

Well  adapted  for  ornamenting  Flower-Gardens   and  borders 
of  Pleasure-Grounds,  Sec. 

Those  marked  thus  *  are  biennial  ;  yet,  seme  of  them  will  con- 
tinue longer,  in  a  favourable  soil,  but  not  flower  so  strong  as  they  do 
the  second  year  from  seed. 


Acbillea  santolina 

,,  Ptannica,Jl.  plen. 
Aconitum  Napellus 

„  lycoctonum 

,,  album 

„  uncinatum 
Actea  racemosa 

,,  spicata 
Adonis  vernal  is 
Agrostcmma  coronaria 

„  Flosjovis 
Mcea  rosea 


Lavender-Cotton-leaved  Milfoil 

Double  Sneezewort 

Blue  Monk's- Hood 

Great  Yellow  do. 

White  do. 

American  do.  or  Wolf's-bane 

Black  Snake-Root 

White  do.  or  Herb  Christopher 

Perennial  Adonis 

Rose  Campion 

Umbelled  do. 

Pommon  Hollyhock 

yig--leaved  do. 


AN"D  BIENNIAL  FIBROUS  ROOTED  PLANTS. 


601 


Alyssum  utriculatum 
Anemone  Hepatica 

„  Pulsatilla 
Anthericum  Liliastrum 
Antirrhinum  purpureum 

„  *  majus 

,,  *  beilidifolium 
Apocynum  androsamifoiium 
Aquilegia  vulgaris 

„  alpina 

,,  canadensis 
Aretbusa  opbioglossoides 

,,  verticillata 
Arum  tripbyllum 

Asclepias  decumbens 

,,  amcena 

,,  syriaca 

„  purpuracens 

„  verticillata 

,,  rubra 

,,  incarnata 

„  variegate), 

,,  Vincetoxicum 
Asphodelus  luteus 

„  ramosus 
Aster  novae  anglix 

,,  undulatus 

„  grandiflorus 

,,  alpinus 

,,  tardiflorus 

„  serotinus 

Astragalus  galegiformis 

,,  uliginosus 

,,  carolinianus 

,,  canadensis 
Atropa  Mandragora 

*  Jiartsia  coccinea 

„  *  v.  lutea 
JBellis  perennis 

„  v.  hortensis 

,,  v.  fistulosa 

„  v.  prolifera 
Betonica  grandiflora. 
Buptbalmum  maritimum 

„  grandiflorum 

,,beliantboides 
Bupleurum  stellatum 

,,  angulosum 
Calthapalustris,  v.  plena 

*  Campanula  Medium 

„  grandiflora 
,,  persicifolia 
,,  carpatica 
,,  pyramidalis 
,,  lilifolia 
ft  rapunculoides 
,,  Tracbelium 
,,  glomerata 
Gardamine praten?ist  v,  plenis 


Bladder-podded  Alyssum 

Common  Hepatica 

Pasque-flower 

Savoy  Anthericum, or  St.  Bruno's  Lily 

Purple  Toad-flax 

Common  Snapdragon 

Daisy-leaved  Toad-flax 

Tutsan-leaved  Dog's-baneS 

European  Columbine 

Alpine  do. 

American  do. 

Fragrant  Arethusa 

Verticillate  do. 

Three-leaved   Arum,   or  Indian 

Turnep 
Pleuresy-root 
Oval-leaved  Asclepias 
Syrian  Swallow-wort 
Purple  Virginian  do* 
Verticillate  do. 
Red  do. 

Flesh-coloured  do. 
Variegated  do. 

Officinal  do.  (with  many  others) 
Yellow  Asphodel,  or  King*s-spear 
Branched  do. 
New  England  Starwort 
Waved  Starwort 
Catesby's  do. 
Alpine  do. 
Late-flowering  do. 
Late  Blue  do.  (with  above  fifty  other1 

species) 

Goat's-rue-leaved  Astragalus 
Violet-coloured  do. 
Carolina  Milk  Vetch 
Woolly  do.  (with  many  others) 
Mandrake 
Scarlet  Bartsia 
Yellow  do. 

European  Daisy          ^ 
Double  Daisy  I   somewhat 

Double  Quilled  do.      f      tendar 
Hen  and  Chicken  do.  J 
Great-flowered  Betony 
Sea  Ox-eye 
Great-flowered  do* 
Sunflower-leaved  do. 
Stary  Hare's-ear 
Angular-leaved  do. 
Double  Marsh  Marigold 
Canterbury  Bells 
Great-flowered  Bell-flowe? 
Peach-leaved  do. 
Heart-leaved  do. 
Pyramidal  do. 
Lily-leaved  do. 
Nettle-leaved  do. 
Great  Bell-flower 
Clustered  do. 
Double  Lady's  Smock 


602 


A  CATALOGUE  OF  HARDY  PERENNIAL 


Cassia  inarilandjcct 
Catananche  cterulea 
Centaurea  alpina 

},  glasti  folia 

,,  montana 

,,  aurea 

,,  alba 
Cbelonc  glahra 

,,  obliqua. 

„  hirsuta 

Chrysanthemum  indicum 
Cbrysoplenium  alternifolium 
Clematis  recta 

,,  integrifolia 

,,  ocbroleuca 
Clniopodlum  incanum 
Convallaria  inajalis    " 

,,  racemosa 

,,  rnultiflora 
Coreopsis  verticillata 

,,  aurea 

,,  auriculata 
Coronilla  varia 
Cucubalus  stellatus 
Cypr-ipedium  album 

„  acaule 

„  canadense 

,,  Calceolus 
Delphinium  elatutn, 

„  pur.iceum 

„  grandiflorum 

,,  intermedium 

„  exaltatum 
Dianthus  barbatus 

,,  cartbustanorum 

,,  Caryophylus 

„  v.  maximus,  ruber  &  'varie-7  • 
gatus  3 

„  del  to  ides 

„  glaucus 

,,  *  cbinensis 
x  ,,-  *  super  bus 
Dictamnus.  albus 

„  v.  flore  rubro 
*  Digitalis  purpurea 

„  *  v.  alba 

,,  lutea 


Dodccatheon  Meadia 
Dracaena  borealis 
Dracocephalum  virginicum 

„  denticulatum 

,,  austriacum 
.,,  grandifiorum 
Echinops  spb&rocepkalvs 

„  Rhro 

Epilcbium  angustifolium 
JEryKgium  alpinum 
£uf>atorium  altissimum 

„  calestinum 


Maryland  Cassia 

Blue  Catananche  (tender) 

Alpine  Centanry 

Woad-leaved  do. 

Mountain  Blue-bottle 

Golden  Centaury 

White-flowered  do. 

Smooth  White  Chelone 

Red  Chelone 

Hairy  White  do. 

Indian  Chrysanthemum 

Alternate-leaved  Golden  Saxifrage 

Upright  Virgin's  Bower 

Entire  leaved  do. 

Yellow-flowered  do. 

Hoary  Wild  Basil 

Lilly  of  the  Valley 

Cluster-flowered  Solomon's-seal 

Many-flowered  do. 

Whorl-leaved  Coreopsis 

Hemp-leaved  do. 

Ear-leaved  do. 

Purple  Coronilla 

Four-leaved  Campion 

White  Lady's  Slipper 

Two-leaved  Purple  do. 

Yellow- flowered  do. 

English  do. 

Bee  Larkspur 

Siberian  Scarlet  Larkspur 

Great-flowered  do. 

Palmated  Bee  Larkspur 

American  Larkspur 

Sweet  William 

Carthusian  Pink 

Clove  Pink 

Carnation 

Maiden  or  Common  Pink 

Mountain  do. 

Chitia  do. 

Superb  do. 

White  Fraxinella 

Red-flowered  do. 

Purple  Fox- glove 

White -flowered  do. 

Small-yellow  do. 

Iron -coloured  do. 

American  Cowslip 

Oval-leaved  Dracaena 

Virginian  Dragon's  Head 

Denticulated  do. 

Austrian  do. 

Great-flowered  do. 

Great  Globe  Thistle 

Small  do. 

Narrow-leaved  Willow-herb 

Alpine  Eryngium 

Tall  Eupatorium 

Blue-flowered  do.  (with  many  others) 


AND  BIENNIAL  FIBROUS  ROOTED  PLANTS. 


60S 


* Euphorbia  Lathyrus 
Furnaria  lutea 
Galega  virginiana 
,,  officinal  is 

*  Gaura  biennis- 
Gentiana  lutea 

„  pur  pure  a 

,,  Saponaria 

,,  acaulis 

,,  villosa 

„  adscendent 

,,  c  Hi  at  a 

,,  pboenicia 
Geranium  macrorbizum 

,,  striatum 

„  maculatum 

,,  aconitifolium 
Gerardia  fla<oa 

,,  pedicularea 
Glauciutn  luteum 
Globularia  vulgaris 

,,  cordifolia 
Glycine  tomentosa 

j,  comosa . 
Gnapbalium  margaritaceum 

,,  plantagineum 

*  HedysaruTn  coronarium 

„  violaceum 

,,  canescens 

,,  paniculatum 
Selenium  autumnale 

,,pubescens 
Helleborus  viridis 

,,  lividus 

,,fcetidus 

„  niger 

„  ranunculinus 
Uelianthus  multiflcrus 

,,giganteus 

,,  altissimus 

,,  atrorubens 
Helonias  bullata 

„  asphodeloides 
Hemerocallis  flava 

^Julva 
Hesperis  matronalis 

„  v.  flore  pleno  albo 

,,  v.  flore  pleno  purpureo 

,,  inodora 

,,  tristis 
Heucbera  americana 

„  dicbotoma 
Hibiscus  palustris 

,,  moscbeutot 

,,  speciosus 

„  virginicus 

„  militaris 
ffoustonia  caerulea 

,,  pur  pur  ea 
Hydrastis  canadensis 
Hypericum  Icevigatum 

„  birsutum 


Caper  Spurge  (and  many  others} 

Yellow  Fumitary 

Virginian  Galeg-a 

Officinal  do.  or  Goat's-rue 

Biennial  Gaura 

Yellow  Gentian 

Purple  do. 

Soap-wort-leaved  do. 

Dwarf  do.  or  Gentianella 

Hoary  Gentian 

Porcelain-flowered  do. 

Fringed-flowered  do. 

Crimson-flowered  do. 

Large-rooted  Crane's-bill 

Streaked  do. 

Spotted  do. 

Aconite-leaved  do. 

Yellow-flowered  Gerardia 

Louse -wort-leaved  do. 

Yellow  Horned  Poppy 

European  Globularia,  or  Blue  Daisy 

Cordate-leaved  do. 

Downy  Glycine 

Tufted  do. 

American  Everlasting- 

Plaintain -leaved  do. 

French  Honeysuckle 

Violet-coloured  Hedysarum 

Rough-leaved  do. 

Panceled  do.  (with  many  others) 

Smooth  Helenium 

Downy  do. 

Green  Hellebore 

Livid  or  Purple  do. 

Stinking  Bear's -foot 

Black  do.  or  Christmas-Rose 

Rammculus-leaved  do 

Many-flowered  Perennial  Sunflower 

Gigantic  do. 

Tall  do. 

Dark-Red  do. 

Spear-leaved  Helonias 

Grass  leaved  do. 

Yellow  Day-Lily 

Orange  do. 

Garden  Rocket 

Double  White  do. 

Purple  Double  do. 

Unsavory  Rocket 

Night  Smiling  do. 

American  Heuchera,  or  Saniclc 

Branching  do. 

Marsh  Hibiscus 

Musk-smelling  do. 

Specious  smooth  do. 

Virginian  do. 

H albert-leaved  do. 

Blue-flowered  Houston!* 

Purple -flowered  do. 

Canadian  Yellow-root 

Smooth  St.  JohnVwort 

Hairy  do. 


604 


A  CATALOGUE  OF  HARDY  PERENNIAL 


„  setosum 
,,  calycinum 
Iberis  rotundifolia 
yeffersonia  binata 
Iris  pumila 
,,  susiana 

t,florentina 
,,  cristata 

3,germanica 

„  Pseud- Acorus 

,,  sibirica 

„  ver  si  color 

„  virginica 
Ixia  cbinensis 
Lavatera  tburingiaca 
Latbyrus  latifolius 
fiiatnt  spesiosa 

„  pilosa 

„  glauca 

„  praalta 

„  noveboracensis 

„  macrostacbya 
Linum  perenne 
Lobelia  cardinalis 

,,  sijjhilitica 
Lunaria  rediviva 

,,  *  onnua 
Lupinus  perennis 
Lychnis  cbalcedonica 

,,  Flos-cuculi 

„  vise aria 
Lypiinacbia  bulbifera 

„  quadrifolia 

,,  racei)iosa 
Lytbrum  verticillatum 

„  Salicarnia 

,,  virgatuvn 
Melantbiutn  virginicutn 

,,  Ixtum 

Melissa  grandiflora 
Mitnulus  r  in  gens 

„  alatus 
Monardafistulosa 

,,  dydima 

,,  punctata 
Napsxa  lavis  , 

,,  scabra 
*  Oenotbera  biennis 

fifruticosa 

„  pumila 
Orchis  spectqbilis 
Orobus  latbyroides 

„  luteus 

Pap  aver  orient  ale 
Passiflora  lutea 
Penstetnon  pubescens 

,,  laevigata 
Phlox  maculata 

„  subulata 

,,  paniculata 

„  undulata 

„  swveolens 


Virginian  St.  John*s»Wort 

Large -flowered  do. 

Round-leaved  Candy-tuft 

Binate-leaved  Jeflfersonia 

Dwarf  Flag  Iris 

Chalcedonian  Iris 

Florentine  do. 

Crested  do. 

German  do. 

Yellow  do. 

Siberian  do. 

Various-coloured  do. 

Virginian  do. 

Chinese  Ixia 

Great-flowered  Lavatera 

Everlasting  Pea 

Hairy-cupped  Liatris 

Hairy-leaved  do. 

Glaucous  do. 

Tall  do.  or  Saw-wort 

Long-leaved  do. 

Long-spiked  do. 

Perennial  Flax 

Scarlet  Cardinal's -flower 

Blue  do. 

Perennial  Honesty 

Biennial  do. 

Perennial  Lupin 

Scarlet  Lychnis  (double  and  single) 

Meadow  do.  (double  and  single) 

Viscous  do.  (double  and  single) 

Bulb-bearing  Lysimachia 

Four-leaved  Loose-strife 

Racemed  do. 

Verticillate  Willow-herb 

Purple  European  do.    I 

Fine-leaved  do. 

Virginian  Melanthium 

Spear-leaved  do. 

Great-flowered  Balm 

Oblong-leaved  Monkey-flower 

Winged-stalked  do. 

Purple  Monarda 

Scarlet  do.  or  Oswego-Tea 

Yellow-flowered  do.  or  Horse-mint 

Smooth  Napxa 

Rough  do. 

Broad-leaved  Primrose-tree 

Shrubby  do.  (not  truly  so) 

Dwarf  do. 

Shewy  Orchis 

Upright  Bitter  Vetch 

Yellow  do. 

Oriental  Poppy 

Yellow  Passion-flower 

Hairy  Penstemon 

Smooth  do. 

Spotted-stalked  Phlox,  or  Lychnadea 

Awl-shaped  do. 

Panicled  do. 

Waved-leaved  do. 

White-flowered  Sweet-scented  do. 


AND  BIENNIAL  FIBROUS  ROOTED  PLANTS. 


605 


,,  Carolina 

„  glabfrrima 

,,  divaricata 

ytpilosa 

„  stolonifera 

„  ovata 

,,  setacea 

,,  sibirica 

„  rostnarinifolia 
Pbysalis  viscosa 

,,  pensylvanica 

„  Alkekengi 
Podalyria  australis 

„  alba 

,,  tinctoria 

Podopbyllum  peltatutn 
Polemonium  reptans 

,,  cxruleum 

,,  v.  fl.  album 
Polygala  Senega 

,,  mariana 
Potentilla  grandiflora 
Primula  vitlgaris 


,,  elatior 

»  officinalis 

»v. 

„  villas  a 

,,  marginata 


„ 


longifolia 
cortusioides 

farinosa 
glutinosa 

,  Auricula* 


Prunella  grandiflora 
Pulmonaria  virginica 

„  paniculata 
Pyrola  rotundifolia 
Ranunculus  Fie  aria 
„  aconitifoltus 
„  acris,jfto.  plena 
„  gramineus 
Rbexia  virginica 

,,  mar  tana 

Rudbeckia  purpurea 

„  laciniata 


„  angustifolia 

„  *  hirta 
Salvia  lyrata 
Saponaria  officinalis 

,,  Ocymoides  * 
garraceniajlava 

„  minor 


,,  purpurea 

Saxifraga  Cotyledon 

,,  Kmbrosa 


Carolina  Phlox,  or  Lychnadea 

Smooth-stalked  do. 

Early-flowering-  do. 

Hairy  do. 

Creeping  or  Daisy-leaved  do. 

Oval-leaved  do. 

Fine-leaved  do. 

Siberian  do. 

Rosemary-leaved  do. 

Clammy  Winter-Cherry 

Pennsylvanian  do. 

European  do. 

Blue  Podalyria,  or  Sophora 

White  do. 

Yellow  do.  or  Bastard  Indigo 

May  Apple 

Creeping  Greek  Valerian 

Blue  European  do. 

White  do. 

Officinal  Milkwort,  or  Rattle-snake 

root 

Maryland  Milkwort 
Great-flowered  Potentilla 
Common  European  Primrose,  (there 

are  many  double  varieties  of  this, 

varying  considerably  in  colour.) 
Oxlip  or  Polyanthus 
Cowslip 

Hose-in-Hose  do. 
Mountain  Primrose 
Silver-edged  do. 
Long-leaved  do. 
Cortusa-leaved  do. 
Bird's-eye  Cowslip 
Clammy  Primrose 
Garden  Auricula  (this  will  require  some 

protection  from  severe  frosts.) 
Great-flowered  Self-heal 
Virginian  Lung-wort 
White  panicled  do. 
Round-leaved  Winter-green 
Pilewort  (double  and  single) 
Fair  Maids  of  France 
Double  upright  Crowfoot 
Grass-leaved  do. 
Hairy-leaved  Rhexia 
Maryland  do. 
Purple  Rudbeckia 
Jagged-leaved  do. 
Bright  do. 
Narrow -leaved  do. 
Rough  do. 
Lyre-leaved  Sage 
Common  Soapwort 
Basil-leaved  do. 
Yellow  Side-saddle  flower 
Small  do. 
Red  do. 
Purple  do. 
Pyramidal  Saxifrage 
London  Pride 
y irginian  Saxifrage 


606          A  CATALOGUE  OF  HARDY  PERENNIAL,  Sec. 


„  granulata 
„  bypnoides 
,,  sarmentosa 
*  Scabiosa  atropurpurea 
Scut  ell  aria  integrijblia 

,,  hyssopifolia 
Sedum  Anacampseros 

,,  Aizoen 

,,  album 
Sempervivum  tectorum 

„  aracbnoideum 

,,  montanum 

„  globiftrutn 
Senecio  aureus 
Sigesbeckia  occidentals 
Silene  virginica 

,,  pensylvanica 

,,  alpestris 
Silphium  perfoliatum 

,,  terebinthinum 

y,  laciniatum 

,,  trifoliatutn 

,,  soiidaginoides 
Sisyrincbiutn  mucronatum 

„  gramineum 

.,  Bermudiana 
Soldanclla  alpina 
Solidago  altissima 

„  latifoiia 

,,  odor  at  a 

,,  lanceolata 

,,jlexicaulis 
v  "  noveboracensts 
Spigelia  tnarilandica 
Spirxa  Aruncus 

,,  Fi/ipendula 

,,  trifoliata 

,,  uhnaria 
Stacbys  intermedia 

,,  lanata 
Statice  specfosa 

,,  Arnieria 
fbalictrttm  aquilegifoltum 

,,  Cornuti 

,,  dioicum 

,,  rugosum 
\feucrium  virginicum 
fradescantia  virginica 
Trillium  sessile 
'  ,,  erectuin 

,, cernuutn 

„  crythrocarpum 

,,  pnsiltum 

friostemn  pe^foliatum, 
%'rollitts  asiaticus 
Valeriana  rubra 
Veratrum  luteum 

,,  wide 
*  Verbascum  Blataria 

,,  r.iyconi 


White  granulous -rooted  do. 

Mossy  do.  or  Lady's  Cushion 

Strawberry  Saxifrage 

Purple  Sweet  Scabious 

Entire-leaved  Scul-cap 

Hyssop-leaved  do. 

Evergreen  Orpine 

Yellow  Stonecrop 

White  do. 

English  Houseleek 

Cobweb  do. 

Mountain  do. 

Globular  do. 

Golden  Grounsel 

American  Sigesbeckia 

Virginian  Catchfly 

Pennsylvania!!  do. 

Austrian  do. 

Square-stalked  Silphium 

Broad-leaved  do. 

Jagged- leaved  do. 

Three-leaved  do. 

Soli  dago- leaved  do. 

Pointed  Sisyrincluum 

Grass-leaved  do. 

Bcrmudian  do. 

Alpine  Soldanella 

Tall  Golden-rod 

Broad-leaved  do. 

Sweet-scented  do. 

Lance-leaved  do. 

Figwort-lcaved  do. 

New- York  do.  &c.  &c. 

Carolina  Pink-root 

Goat's -beard  Spiraea 

Filipendula,  or  Drop  wort 

Thi-ee  leaved  Spirjea 

Meadow  Sweet 

Oblong-leaved  Stachys 

Woolly  do. 

Plantain-leaved  Thrift 

Sea  Pink 

Columbine-leaved     Meadow-rue 

Feathered  Columbine 
CanadianHo. 
Dioecious  do. 
Rough  do. 
Virginian  Teucrium 
Virginian  Spider-wort 
Sessile-flowered  do. 
Erect-flowered  do. 
Nodding-flowered  do. 
Red-fruited  do. 
Dwarf  do. 
Fever- Root 
Asiatic  Globe-flower 
Red  Garden  Valerian 
Yellow-flowered  Veratrum 
Green-flowered  do. 
Moth  Mullein 
Borage -leaved  Mullein 


HARDY  ANNUAL  FLOWERS.  5Q7 

„  *  Phoenicia  Purple  Mullein 

Veronica  virginica  Virginian  Speedwell 

Viola  palmata  Palm  ated  Violet 

,  pedata  Bird's-foot  do. 

,  odorata,flo.  plen.  Double  Sweet-scented  do. 

,  'cordata  Cordate-leaved  do. 

,  debilis  Small  White  do. 

rotundifolla  Yellow  round-leaved  do. 

,  pallida  Pale-flowered  do. 

lanceolata  Lance-leaved  do. 

priniulifolia  Primrose-leaved  do. 

strict  a  Uprigth  do. 

has'- it  a  Halbert-leaved  do. 

obliqua  Oblique -flowered  do. 

cucullata  Hollow-leaved  do. 

canadensis  Canadian  do. 

striata  Striated  do. 

,  pubescent  Downey  do. 

pensyhaniea.  Pennsyjvanian  Yellow  do. 


HARDY  ANNUAL  FLOWERS. 

Those  marked  thus  *,  are  climbing  or  twining  plants  ;  and  such 
as  are  marked  thus  f,  may  be  sown  in  a  dry  light  soil  in  Novem- 
ber, as  well  as  in  the  spring  months  ;  from  the  former  sowing  the 
plants  will  rise  early  in  spring,  and  flower  much  stronger  than 
those  sown  at  the  latter  period. 

f  Adonis  autwinnalis  Flos  Adonis,  or  Bird's  eye 

,,  eestivahs  Tall  do. 

Agrostemma  Call  Rosa  Smooth-leaved  Rose  Campion 

„  f  Gitbago  Corn  Rose  Campion 

Alyssum  halimifolium  Sweet  Alyssum 

Amarantbus  hypocondriacus  Prince's  Feather 

„  caudatus  Love-lies  bleeding 

„  v.  maximus  Tree  Amaranthus 

Anagallis  arvensis  Red  Pimpernel 

Antirrhinum  Elantine  Fluellin,  or  Toad-flax 

„  versicolor  Spiked  Flower'd  do. 

"  viscosum  Clammy  Snapdraggon 

Argemone  mexicana  Prickley  Argemone 

Aster  chinensis  China  Aster  (in  sorts) 

Blitum  virgatum  Slender  Strawberry  Elite 

"  capitatum  Berry-headed  do. 

Bupleurum  rotundifolium  Round-leaved  Hare's-ear 

Calendula  pluviaiis  Small  Cape  Marigold 

,,  bybrida  Large  do. 

Campanula  speculum  Venus's  Looking-glass 
Carthamus  tinctorius                              .  Bastard  Saffron 

Cassia  Channecrista  Dwarf  Cassia 

Celsia  orientalis  Oriental  Celsia 

f  Centaurea  moschata  Purple  Sweet  Sultan 

?,  f  v.  alba  White  de. 


608 


A  CATALOGUE  OF 


„  Amber  boi 
,,  f  Cyanus 
Cerinthe  major 

"  minor 
Cbeirantbus  maritimus 

,,  annuus 
Chenepodium  Botrys 

,,  *  Scopitria 
^Cbironia  angularis 
Chrysanthemum  tricolor 

,,  coronarium 
Cleome  violacea 
*  Convolvulus  purpweus 

,,  tricolor 
Crepts  barbata 

„  ruhra 

\  Delphinium  Consolida 
,,  t  Ajacis 
„  peregrin-inn 

Dracocepbahim  Moldavicct 
,,  canescens 
„  tbymifollum 
„  nutans 
Fumaria    lauca 


,,  Capnoides 

,,  capreolata 
Seliantbus  annuus 

,,  indicus 
Hibiscus  trionum 
Hippocrepis  unisiliqyosd 

,,  multisiliquosa 
Alberts  umbellata 

)t.linifolia 

„  amara 

„  odorata 
f  Impatience  noli  tangere 

*  Ipomaea  lacwosa 

*  Latbyrus  odorafut 

„*  v.  albis( 

„•*  r.  carneo 

,,  *  v.  roseo 

„  *  v.  caeruleis 

„  *  v.  atropurpureo 

j,  *  tingitanits 

,,*  sativus 
Lavatcra  trimestris 

,,crctica 

Lotus  tctragonolobus 
Lupinus  albiis 

,,  varius 

,,  hirsutus 

,,  pilosus 

,,  luteus 

,,  angustifotitts 
Malva  crispa 

,,  penivian  a 

,,  orientalis 
Medicfigo  poly'morpba 

,,  v.  scutellata 

,rv.  intertext* 


Yellow  Sweet  Sultaa 
Blue-bottle  (in  sorts) 
Great  Purple  Honey-wort 
Small  Yellow  do. 
Annual  or  Mediterranean  Stock 
Ten-week  Stock  (in  sorts) 
Sweet-scented  Goosefoot 
Belvedere,  or  Summer  Cypress 
American  Centaury 
Three-coloured  Chrysanthemum 
Garden  Chrysanthemum 
Violet-coloured  Cieome 
Purple  Convolvulus  major 
Dwarf  do.  or  Convolvulus  minor 
Yellow  Hawkweed 
Red  do. 

Branching  Larkspur 
Upright  Garden  do.  (many  varieties) 
Broad-leaved  do. 
Moldavian  Balm 
Hoary  Dragon's  Head 
Thyme-leaved  do. 
Nodding  do. 
Glaucous  Fumitory 
Spongy-flowered  do. 
White-flowered  do. 
Ramping  do. 
Tall  Annual  Sunflower 
Dwarf  annual  do. 
Bladder  Hibiscus,  or  Ketmia 
Single-podded  Horse-shoe  Vetch 
Many-podded  do. 
Purple  Candy-tuft 
Flax-leaved  do. 
White  do. 
Sweet-scented  do. 
Touch  me  not 
Starry  Ipomoea 
Sweet  Pea 
White  Sweet-pea 
Old  Painted  Lady  do. 
New  Painted  Lady  or  Scarlet  do. 
Blue  Sweet  Pea 
Purple  do. 
Tangier  Pea 
Blue  Chickling  Vetch 
European  Lavatera 
Cretan  do. 
Winged  Pea 
White  Lupin 
Small  Blue  do. 
Great  Blue  do. 
Rose  do. 
Yellow  do. 

Narrow-leaved  blue  do. 
Curled  Mallow 
Peruvian  purple  do. 
Oriental  Mallow 
Variable  Medic 
Snail  Medic,  or  Snails 
Hedg-hog  do.  or  Bedghog;? 


TENDER  ANNUAL  FLOWERS. 


009 


Moluccella  spinosa 

,,  Ixvis 
Nigetla  datnascena. 

,,  bispamca, 
Nolanfi  prostrata 
Oenothera  tetraptera 

,,  pur  pure  a 
Papaver  somniferum 

„  v.  flore  pleno 

„  Rboeas 

,,  dubium 

*  Pisum  sativum,  v.  umbellatum 
f  Polygala  lutea 
Polygonum  or  lent  ale 
Reseda  odor  at  a 
Salvia  hispanica 
Scorpiurus  vermiculata 

,,  muricata 

„  sulcata 
Senecio  elegans 
Silejie  Armeria 

,,  quinquevulnera, 

„  pendula 
Tagetes patula,  v.  fl.  pleno 

,,erecta,v.  fl.  pleno 
,,  v.  fistulosa 
Trifotium  incarnatum 
Tropdeolum  majus 
Viola  tricolor 
Urtica  pilulifera 
Xcranthemum  annuum 

„  lucidum 
Zinnia  multiflora 

,,  pauciflora 

„  tenutflora 


Prickly  Molucca  Balm 

Smooth  do. 

Love  in  a  Mist 

Fenel -flower,  or  Devil  in  a  Eush 

Trailing1  Nolana 

Changeable  Primrose-tree 

Purple  flowered  clo. 

Common  White  Poppy 

Double-flowered  do.  (in  sorts) 

Corn  Poppy 

Smooth  Poppy 

Rose  or  Crown  Pea 

Yellow  annual  Milkwort 

Tall  Persicaria 

Mignonette 

Spanish  Sage 

One-flowered  Caterpillar 

T\vo-flowered  do. 

Furrowed  do. 

Elegant  Groundsel,  Purple  Jacobsea 

Lobel's  Catchfly 

Dwarf  do.  or  Mountain  Lychnis 

Pendulous  do. 

Double  French  Marigold 

Double  African  Marigold 

Quilled  do. 

Crimson -spiked  Clover 

Nasturtium 

Heart's  Ease,  Three-coloured  Violet 

Roman  Nettle 

Eternal  Flower 

Yellow  lucid  Xeranthemum 

Red  Zinnia 

Yellow  do. 

Slender-flowered  do. 


TENDER  ANNUAL  FLOWERS,  &c. 

Those  marked  thus  f  being  the  most  tender,  should  not  be 
sown  in  the  ojien  ground  in  the  middle  states,  before  the  first  week  in 
May  ;  nor  the  others,  before  the  latter  part  of  April.  This  mark 
*  is  prefixed  to  the  climbing  or  twining  sorts. 


Allionia  incarnata 
•j"  Amarantbus  tricolor 

,,  melancbolicus 
Amethystea  c<erulea 
Arctotis  antbemoides 

,,  calendulacea 

„  dent at a 
•j-  Brotuallia  elata 

,,  f  detnissa 
Cacalia  coccinea 
"\  Calceolaria  pinnata 
*  f  Cardiospermwm  corindum 


Glacous  Allionia 
Three-coloured  Amaranthus 
Two-coloured  do. 
Blue  Amethyst 
Chamomile  Arctotis 
Marigold-flowered  do. 
Dwarf  Arctotis 

Upright  Browallia  (blue  and  white) 
Spreading  do. 
Scarlet-flowered  Cacalia 
Pinnated  Slipper-wort 
Parsley-leaved  Heart-seed 
4  I 


610 


A  CATALOGUE  OF 


,,  *  f  Hclicacabum 
passia  Senna 
Celosia  cristata 

„  argentea 

,,  coccir.ea 
Cleome  pent:ipbylla 

*  Convolvulus  Nil 
Coix  Lacryma  Jobi 
t  Cucumis  anguimu 

,,  f  pentandra 

„  t  prophet  arum 

„  f  Dudaim 

„  f  Cbate 
f  Cucurbita  ovffera 
Datura  fastuosa 

*  f  Dolicbos  purpiireus 

„  *  t  Labtab 
„  *  f  sescntipedalis 
,,  f  etuaformit 
„  *  t  albu* 

*  Fumaria  vesicarict 
Gompbrena  g'obosa 

Hibiscus  solandra 
Impatience  Bcdsarnina 

*  f  Ipomcea  §>u(imodit 

,,      f  coccinea 

„      f  bederifoita 

„      f  bona  nox 

„      f  triloba 

,,  *  f  <oiolacca 
Lobelia  longiflora 
t  Lopezia  racetnosa  (a) 
Martynia  probosidea. 

,,  diandra 

,,  longiflora 
t  Mesembryantbemutn  limpidutn 

,,  f  chrystalinuin 

,,  t  nodiflorum 

„  4  pinnatifidum 

„  f  pomeridianuni 

,,  f  afetatum 

„  t  glabrum 
f  Mimosa  pudica  (b) 
Mirabilis  Jalapa 

,,  dicbotomo 

tt  longiflora 

,,  •oiscosa 

*  f  Momordica  Balsamina 

,,  *  I  Cbarantia 
„  *  f  trifolia 
»  *  t  ^.«/a 
»»  *  t  c}'lindrica 


(a)  This  beautiful  annual  generally  flowering  at  a  late  period,  should  be 

and  nursed  in  pots,  in  order  to  be  removed  into  the  Green-House  or  Stove  on  tbc 
approach  of  cold  weather  or  frost. 

(b)  This  plant  it  shrubby   and  will  continue  several  years  if  kept  in  a  good 
Hat-House. 


Smooth-leaved  de. 

True  officinal  Senna 

Common  Cock's -comb 

Silvery-spiked  Celosia 

Scarlet  Chinese  do. 

Five-leaved  Cleome 

Blue  Convolvulus 

Job's  Tears 

Snake  Cucumber  or  Melon 

Pentandrous  Cucumber 

Globe  (mottled)  do. 

Apple  shaped  mottled  do. 

Hairy  do. 

Eg1!?  Gourd 

Double  Purple  Stramonium 

Purple  Dolichos 

Black-seeded  do. 

Long-podded  do.  or  Asparagus  Bean 

Jamaica  Horse  or  Sword  Bean 

White-flowering  Dolichos 

Bladder-podded  Fumatory 

Globe  Amaranth  (purple,  white,  and 
striped 

Maple  leaved  Hibiscus 

Garden  Balsam 

Winged-leaved  Ipomoea,  or  Cypress- 
vine 

Scarlet  Ipomoea,  or  Convolvulus 

Ivy-leaved  Ipomcea 

Prickly  do.  * 

Three -leaved  do. 

Violet-coloured  do. 

Long-flowered  Lobelia 

Mexican  Lopezia 

Hairy  Martinia,  or  Cuckold's  Horns 

Two-stamined  do. 

Long-flowered  do. 

Transparent  Fig-Marigold 

Diamond  do.  or  Ice-Plant 

Egyptian  Fig-Marigold 

Pinnate-leaved  do. 

Great  Yellow-flowered  do. 

Dwarf-spreading  do. 

Smooth-leaved  do. 

Sensitive  and  Humble  Plant 

Marvel  of  Peru,  or  Four  o'clock 

Forked  do. 

Sweet-scented  do. 

Clammy  do. 

Male  Balsam  Apple 

Hairy  do. 

Three-leaved  Momordica 

Egyptian  do. 

Long-fruited  do. 


GREEN-HOUSE  TREES  AND  SHRUBS. 


611 


Momordtca  Elaterium 

Oxybaphns  viscosits 
Ppntapetes  pbcenicea 
*  Pbaceotus  vuigaris,  v.  coccineus 

,,  *  \faririoruM 
PJ  or  ale  a  corylifolia 
Ricinus  communis 

Sesatnurti  orientate 
Scorzonera  ti 
Sida  cristata 
Stgesbeckia  orient  alit 
Silent  vespertina 
Spigelia  Antbelmia 
f  Tricosantbes  Anguina 
Xeminesia  Ensiloides 
Zinnia  elegant 


Squirting1  Cucumber  (this  is  perennial 
where  the  winters  are  mild) 

Viscid  Umbrella- wort 

Scarlet-flowered  Pentapetes 

Scarlet-flowering  Kidney  Bean 

Ivy-leaved  do. 

Hazel-leaved  Psoralea 

Palma  Ciiristi.  or  Castor-oil  Plant  (se- 
veral varieties) 

Oriental  Sesamum,  or  Oily-grain 

Tangier  Scorzonera 

Crested  Sida 

Oriental  Sigesbeckia 

Morocco  Catchfly 

Annual  Worm-grass 

Snake  Gourd 

Annual  Xeminesia 

Violet-coloui-ed  Zinnia 


HARDY  AQUATIC  HERBACEOUS  PERENNIAL  PLANTS, 

Valuable  for  ornamenting  ponds,   the   borders  of  lakes,  ri- 
vers, See. 


Hetcrandra  reniformis 
Hydropeltis  purpurea 
Menyantbes  trifoliata 
Nelumbium  luteum 
Nymphoea  advena 

„  odor at  a 

„  alba 

„  lute  a 

Pontederia  cordata 
Saururus  cernuus 
Vallisneria  spiralis 

,.  americana 


Kidney- shaped  Heterandra 
Purple  Hydropeltis 
English  Buck-bean 
Yellow  Indian  Water-Lily 
Three-coloured  Water-Lily 
American  sweet-scented  white  do. 
European  white  do. 
Yellow  do. 

Heart-leaved  Pontederia 
Drooping  Lizard's-tail 
European  Vallisneria 
American  do. 


GREEN-HOUSE  TREES  AND  SHRUBS. 

Those  marked  thus  t  being  hardy  Green-House  plants,  may 
-be  cultivated  in  the  open  ground  in  such  of  the  southern  states  as 
have  mild  winters  ;  and  indeed  many  of  them  may  be  inured  to  bear 
the  winters  of  the  middle,  and  even  some  of  the  eastern  states,  if 
planted  in  warm  soils  and  exposures  ;  especially  if  protected  from, 
rigorous  frosts,  by  a  covering  of  mats,  &c.  till  they  acquire  age  an4 


612 


A  CATALOGUE  OF 


strength.  But  in  Georgia  and  the  greater  part  of  South  Carolina, 
there  are  few  plants,  if  any,  in  the  whole  list,  but  will  succeed  by 
open  ground  culture. 

See  the  Hot-House  catalogue  for  some  plants,  which,  in  cases  of 
necessity,  may  be  preserved  in  a  good  Green-House. 


Aitonia  capensis 
Amy r us  eletnifera 
Anthyllis  Barba  yovis 

,,  Erinacea 

,,  bernianniae 

,,  cytis aides 

„  beteropbylla 
Apocynum  frutescens 
f  Arbutus  Unedo 

„  Andracbne 
Arctotis  aspera 
Ardisia  excelsa 
Arduina  bispinosa 
Aristotelia  Marqui 
Artemisia  argentea 
Asdepias  fruticosa 
f  Ascyrum  Hypericoides 
Aspbalatbus  cretica 

y,  pedunculata 
Asparagus  a&iaticus 

„  retrofractus 
Aster  fruticosus 
f  Atragene  alpina 
Atraphaxis  spinosa 
f  Atripiex  Halimuit 
f  Aucuba  japonica 
f  Azalea  pontica 
t  Baccbarisi'oxfolia 

„  f  halimtfolia 
Banksia  serrata 
Baueria  rubioides 
Bejaria  resinosa 
Bl&ria  ericoides 
Borbonia  crenata 
Buchnera  viscosa 
Buddleia  globosa 
Bupthalrtium  frutescens 
f  Bnpleurumfruticosum 
Bystropogon  canariense 
Cacalia  Kleinia 
Calendula  Tragus 

,,  fruticosa 
t  Calycanthus  praccox 
Camellia  japonica 
Campanula  Jruticosa 

,,  aurea 

Caparis  spinosa 
Cassia  multiglandulosa 
Cassine  capensia 

„  Maurocenia 

„  Peragua 
Casuarina  stricta 
Ceanotbu^  ajricanut 
Cflsia 


Cape  Aitonia 

Gum-Elemi  Tree 

Silvery  Anthyllis,  or  Jupiter's  Beard 

Prickly  Anthyllis 

Lavender-leaved  do. 

Downy-leaved  do. 

Various-leaved  do. 

Shrubby  Dog-'s-bane, 

Strawberry  Tree 

Oriental  do. 

Booad-leaved  rough  Arctotis 

Laurel-leaved  Ardisia 

Two-spined  Arduina 

Shining-leaved  Aristotelia 

Silvery-leaved  Wormwood 

Shrubby  Asclepias 

Hypericum-like  Ascyrum 

Cretan  or  evergeen  Asphalathus 

Small -leaved  do. 

Slender-stalked  shrubby  asparagus 

Larch-leaved  do. 

Shrubby  Aster 

Alpine  Atragene 

Prickly  Atraphaxis 

Shrubby  Orache 

Japan  Aucuba 

Yellow  Azalea 

Peruvian  Baccharis 

Sea  Purslane-leaved  do. 

Serrate-leaved  Banksia 

Madder-leaved  Baueria 

Gummy  Bejaria 

Heath-leaved  Blseria 

Notch-leaved  Borbonia 

Clammy  Buchnera 

Round-leaved  Buddleia 

Shrubby  Ox-eye 

Shrubby  Hare's-ear 

Canary  Bystropogon 

Oleander-leaved  Cacalia 

Bending-stalked  Marigold 

Shrubby  do. 

Japan  Allspice 

Japan  Camellia 

Shrubby  Bell-flower 

Golden-flowered  do. 

True  Caper  Shrub 

Glandulcus  Cassia 

Cape  Phillyrea 

Great  Hottentot  Cherry 

American  Cassine 

Upright  Casuarma 

African  Evergreen  Ceanothus 

Linear  -leaved  Celsi* 


GREEN-HOUSE  TREES  AND  SHRUBS. 


613 


„  urticifolia 
Centaurea  ragusina 
Ceratonia  Siliqua 
Cham&rops  bumilis 
f  Cbeiranthus  Cbeiri 
,,  f  incanus 
„  t  v.  glaber 
„  fenestralis 
,,  tnutabilis 
„  tenuifoilus 
Cbironia  baccifera 

„  decussata 
Cineraria  lanata 

,,  amelloides 
\  Cistus  ladaniferus 
„  f  laurifolius 
„  f  virginianus 
, ,  f  monspeliensis 
,,  f  laxus 
,,  f  salvifoliiis 
,,  f  incanus 
,,  f  albidus 
,,  f  creticus 
,  f  crispus 
,  f  balimifolius 
,  libanotis 
f  umbeitatut 


,  synacus 
,  Futnana 

,formosus 
,  algarvensis 
capensis 


Citrus  Medica 

,  v.  tuberosa 

,  v.  Limon 
v.  acris 
v.  racemosa 
Auranttum 
v.  acre 
v.  sinense 

,  v.  orientale 

,  v.  hunvJe 

,  decumana 

,  japonic a 

,  trifoliata 
Clematis  calycina 

,,  japonica,  fi.  plena 
Cliffortia  ilicifolia 

,,  odorata 

f  Cneorum  tricoccuin 
Coluteafrutescens 
Convolvulus  cairicut 

„  Cneorum 
Conyza  Inuloides 

„  sericea 

,,  Candida 

„  rugosa 

,,  incisa 


Nettle-leaved  do. 
Cretan  Centaury 
.  Carob  Tree 
Dwarf  Fan  Palm 
Common  Wallflower  (in  sorts) 
Stock-gilly flower  (in  sorts) 
White  Wallflower 
Cluster-leaved  Stock-gillyflower 
Broad-leaved  Shrubby  do. 
Narrow-leaved  do. 
Berry-bearing  Chironia 
Cross-leaved  do. 
Woolly  Cineraria 
Blue-flowered  Cape  Aster 
Gum  Cistus 
Laurel-leaved  Cistus 
Oblong-leaved  do. 
Montpelier  do. 
Broad  Waved-leaved  do. 
Sage -leaved  do. 
Hoary-leaved  do.  or  Rock-rose 
White  Cistus,  or  Rock-rose 
Cretan  Cistus 
Curled-leaved  do. 
Broad  Sea-Purslane-leaved  do. 
Rosemary-leaved  do. 
Umbelled  Cistus 
Cluster-leaved  do. 
Syrian  Cistus 
Heath-leaved  do. 
Myrtle -leaved  do. 
Beautiful  do. 
Algarve  do. 
Cape  do, 

Rose -flowered  do. 
Sweet  Citron 
Common  Citron 
Common  Lemon 
Sour  Lemon,  or  Lime 
Clustered  Lemon 
Orange 
Seville  Orange 
China  Orange 
Turkey  Orange 
Dwarf  or  Nutmeg  Orange 
Shaddock 

Japan  Cherry-size  Orange 
Trifoliate  Orange 
Minorca  Virgin's  Bower 
Double-flowered  Japan  do. 
Ilex-leaved  Cliffortia 
Sweet-scented  do. 
Widow-wail 
Scarlet  Coiutea 
Egyptian  Convolvulus 
Silvery-leaved  do. 
Cmstered-flowered  Flea-bane 
Snowy  Flea-bane 
Wolly  do. 
St.  Helena  do. 
Ear-leaved  do. 


614 


A  CATALOGUE  OF 


Cor  chorus  japonicus 
f  Coronilla  valentina 


t,juncea 

„  argentea 

,,  f  Einerut 
Crambefruticosa 

„  strigosa 
Cressa  cretica 
Crotalariafloribunda 

,,  incanescens 
t  Croton  sebiferum 
Cunonia  capensis 
t  Ciipressus  sempervirens 

,,  juniper  aides 

,,  f  pendula 

»>  t  japonica 

,,  f  colutnnaris 
Cnrtisiafaginera 
Cycds  revoluta 
Cynancbum  vimtnale 

,,  cctpense 
Oytissusfoliolosus 

,,  t  birsutus 

„  proLiferus 

,,  f  divaricatus 

„  f  nig  •leans 

,,  argtntens 


Dais  cotinrfolia 
Daphne  odbra 

„  indica 

,,  f  collina 
Dinntbus  arboreut 

3tjrutico$us 

t,juniperinus 
Digitalis  canariensis 

„  Spectrum 
Diosma  rubra 

,thirsuta 

,,  uni  flora 

,,  serratifolia 
Dodoncea  angustifoliai 
Dolicbos  lignosut 
Doraena  japonica 
Draaena  Draco 

,,ferrea 
Ebenus  cretica 
Ecbiumfruticosvm 

,,  candicans 
Elxagnus  oriental™ 
Embotrium  coccineum 

,,  speciosissimutn 

„  urnbellatnm 
Empleurwrn  serrulatum 
Epacris  longi  folia 
Erica  grandiflora 

„  ctrii'tboides 

,,  ampullacea 

„  per&nluta 

t  ventriccsst 


Japan  Corchorus 
Rue- leaved  Coronilla 
Great  Shrub  by  do. 
Linear-leaved  do. 
Silvery-leaved  do. 
Scorpion  Senna 
Shrubby  Colewort 
Rough-leaved  do. 
Cretan  Cressa 
Small-flowered  Crotalaria 
Spreading-  Shrubby  do. 
Chinese  Tallow  Tree 
Cape  Cunonia 
Evergreen  Cypress 
African  do. 
Portugal  do. 
Japan  do. 

New  Caledonia  do. 
Beech-leaved  Curtisia 
True  Sago  Palm 
Naked  Cynanchum 
Cape  do. 
Leafy  Cytissus 
Hairy  do. 
Silky  do. 
Clammy  do. 
Black  do. 
Silvery  do. 
Smooth  do. 
Cotinus-leaved  Dais 
Sweet-scented  Daphne 
Chinese  Daphne 
Neapolitan  Mezereon 
Tree  Pink  or  Carnation 
Shrubby  do. 
Juniper-leaved  do. 
Canary  shrubby  Foxglove 
Madeira  Shrubby  do. 
Red-flowered  Diosma 
Hairy-leaved  do. 
One-flowered  do. 
Serrated-leaved  do. 
Narrow-leaved  Dodonaca 
Purple  Shrubby  Dolichos 
Japan  Doracna 
Dragon  Tree 
Purple  Dracaena 
Cretan  Ebony 
Shrubby  Viper's  Bugloss 
Hoary  tree  do. 
Oriental  Oleaster 
Scarlet  Embothrium 
Specious  do. 
ymbell-flowered  do. 
Cape  Empleurum 
Long-leaved  Epacris 
Great  flowered  Heuth 
Honey  wort-flowered  do. 
Fla?k  Heath 
Biush -flowered  do. 
Porcelain  do, 


GREEN-HOUSE  TREES  AND  SHRUBS. 


615 


,,  Massoni 
„  baccans 
,,  r/etorta 
„  pyramidalit 
„  articularis 
,,  aitonia 
„  empetrifolia 
„  mediterraneg, 
,,  pubescens 
,,  hirtiflora 
,,  ciliarls 


„ 

,,  metulteflora 
,,  longifolia 
,,  coccinea 

Eriocepbalus  africanus 
Erodium  incarnatum 
Escallonia  serrata 
Eucalyptus  obliqua 
Ficus  cor  data 

,,  capensis 
t  Fuchsia  coccinea 
Fusanus  compressus 
G  arofe/z  iafiorida 

„  Rothmannia 
f  Gelseminum  ntditum 
Gaura  mutabilis 
Genista  linlfolia 

,,  canariensis 

,,  f  candicans 

Geranium  anernonefolium  (a) 
Glycine  bimaculata 

,,  rubicunda 

,,  coccinea 
Gnaphalium  eximium 

„  serratuin 

,,  crispam 

„  ericoidcs 
Goodenia  ovata 

,,  Icevigata 

•f"   Gordonia  lasianthus 
Gorteria  rigens 
Grewia  occider.talis 
Haleria  lucida 
Hedysarum  Alhagi 
Hdiotrupi'im  canariense 
Mcnnannia  alnifolia 

,,  lavendulifolia 

,,  altb<eifolia 

,,  odor  at  a 
Hibiscus  prxmorsus 

,,  <etbiopicus 

,,  mutabilis 


Tall  downy,  or  Mason's  do. 

Arbutus-flowered  do. 

Recurved  do. 

Pyramidal  do. 

Articular  do. 

Alton's  do. 

Crowberry-leaved  do. 

Mediterranean  do. 

Downy-flowered  do. 

Rough  flowered  do. 

Ciliated  do. 

Glaucus-leaved  do. 

Nine-pin  do. 

L#ng--leaved  do. 

Scarlet-flowered  do.  (with  upward*  of 

sixty  other  species) 
Cluster-leaved  Eriocephalus 
Flesh-coloured  Crane's-bill 
Serrate-leaved  Escallonia 
Oblique -leaved  Eucalyptus 
Cordate-leaved  Fig 
Cape  Fig 

Scarlet-flowered  Fuchsia 
Flat-stalked  Fusanus 
Fragrant  Gardenia,  or  Cape  Jasmine 
Spotted-flowered  Gardenia 
Carolina  yellow  Jasmine 
Changeable-flowered  Gaura 
Flax-leaved  Broom. 
Canary  Genista 
Hoary  do. 

Anemone-leaved  Geranium 
Purple  Glycine 
Dingy-flowered  do. 
Scarlet  do. 
Giant  Cudweed 
Serrate-leaved  do. 
Curled-leaved  do. 
Heath-leaved  do. 
Ovate  Yellow  Goodenia 
Smooth  do. 
Smooth  Loblolly  Bay 
Great-flowered  Gorteria 
Elm-leaved  Grewia 
African  Fly  Honeysuckle 
Prickly  Hedysarum 
Canary  Turnsole    . 
Alder-leaved  Hermannia 
Lavender-leaved  do. 
Marsh-Mallow-leaved  do. 
Sweet  scented  do. 
Bitten-leaved  Hibiscus 
Dwarf  Wedge-leaved  do. 
Changeable  Rose  Hibiscus 


(a)  The  Genus  of  Geranium  as  constituted  by  Linnxiis,  having  become  unwiel- 
dy by  modern  discoveries,  has  been  divided  into  three  genera  viz.  Erodium  with 
Jive  fertile  stamens  only  ;  Pelargonium,  vjitb  seven  ;  and  Geranium  with  all 
the  ien  fertile,  I  knovj  of  none  of  the  latter  being  shrubby  but  the  above  ;  for  the 
great  variety  ofisbat  were  formerly  called  Geraniums  see  Pelargonium. 


.     • 


616 

Hippla  frutescens 
•j"  Hudsonia  ericoides 
f  Hydrangea  hortensit 

Hyoscyamus  aureus 
Hypericum,  Coris 

„  barlearicum 

,,  monogynum 
Jasminum  odoratissimum 

,,  azoricum 

„  Sambac 

,,  burnt 'le 

,,  grandifloruin 

,,  nervosum 
Iberis  semperflorens 

,,  gibraltarica 
Ilex  Perado 

,,  Cassine 

,,  vomitorea 

,,  crocea 

Illicium  floridanum 
Indigofera  psoraloides 

,,  candicans 

,,  cytisoides 

,,  angu&tifolia, 
Inula  caerulea 
f  Ivafrutesccns 
f  yuniperus  bermudiana 

,,  barbadensis 
Justicia  Adbatoda 

,,  orcbioides 

,,  byssotifolia 

„  madurtnsis 

„  cuneata  , 

,,  Ecbolium 
Ixiafructicosa 
Kiggelfiria.  africana 
Lachnxa  eriocepbala 

,,  conglomerata 
Lager strceinia  indica 

,,  speciosa 

,,  parviflora 
Lavendula  dentata 

,,  pinnata 

,,  multifida 

,,  <oiridis 
f  Laurus  nobilis 

„  Cainpbora 

,,  indica 

,,  fa  tens 

,,  glauca 

„  Cutesbyana 

„  f  -curciliniensis 
Lefa  sambuciha 
Leptoapennum  scoparium 

„  aromriticum 

„  lanigenmi, 

,tjuniptrinum,  izV. 
Ltnum  arboreum 
Liparia  spbarica 


A  CATALOGUE  OP 


Shrubby  Hippia 

Heath-leaved  Hudsonia 

Garden    Changeable    Hydrangea,,   or 

Chinese  Guelder-Rose 
Golden-flowered  Hen-bane 
Heath-leaved  St.  John's-wort 
Warted  do. 
Chinese  do. 
Yellow  Indian  Jasmine 
Azorian  do. 
Arabian  do. 
Italian  Yellow  do. 
Catalonian  do. 
Chinese  do. 

Broad-leaved  evergreen  Candytuft 
Gibraltar  do. 

Thick-leaved  Smooth  Holly 
Dahoon  do. 
South  sea  Tea     • 
Cape  Holly 

Red-flowered  Aniseed  Tree 
Long-spiked  Indigo 
White-leaved  do. 
Angular  stalked  do. 
Narrow-leaved  do. 
Blue-flowered  Shrubby  Inula 
Shrubby  Iva,  or  Bastard  Jesuit's-Bark 
Bermudas  Juniper  or  Cedar 
Barbadoes  do. 
Malabar  Nut 
Broom-leaved  Justicia 
Hyssop-leaved  do.  or  Snap-tree 
Madeira  Justicia 
Cape  shrubby  do. 
Long-spiked  do. 
Shrubby  Ixia 
African  Kiggelaria 
Woolly-headed  Lachnsca 
Cluster-headed  do. 
Indian  Lagerstrcemia 
Specious  do. 
Small-flowered  do. 
Tooth-leaved  Lavender 
Pinnated-leaved  do. 
Canary  do. 
Madeira  do. 
Sweet  Bay 

Camphor  or  Camphire  Tree 
Madeira  Laurel 
Canary  do. 
Glacous  do. 
Catesby's  do. 
Carolina  do. 
Elder-leaved  Leea 
Myrtle-leaved  Leptospermum'or  New- 

ZealamJ  Tea 

Sweet-scented  Leptospermum 
Hoary  do. 
Juniper-leaved  do. 
Tree  Flax 
Globe-flowered 


GREEN-HOUSE  TREES  AND  SHRUBS. 


617 


Lobelia  pinifolia 

,,  hirsuta 
Lupinus  arboreus 
Lyciwn  japonicum 

„  of r  inn 

,,  cocbincbinens& 
f  Lythrumfruticosum 
f  Magnolia  grandifara. 

,,  obovata 

,,  tomentosa 

,,fuscata 
Mabernia  pinnata 

,,  verticillata 

,,  incisa 
Mafoa  angustifolia 

„  bryonifol'ut 

,,  capcnsi* 
Medicago  arborca 
Mclaleuca  genistifolia 

,,  bypericifolia 
Mdia  Azedaracb 
Melianthus  -major 

,,  minor 
Metrosideros  citrina 

,,  angustifolta 

„  lanceolata 
Mimosa  verticillata 

„  myrtifolia 

,,  uliclna. 

,,  ensifoiid 

,,falcata 

„  suaveolens 

,,  bispidula 
Mimulus  aurantiacus, 
Mjrica  cetbiopica 

„  querci folia 

,,  trifoliata 

„  cordifolia 

,,  incisa 

„  Fay  a 
Myrtus  communis 

„  v.  romana 

„  v.  tarentina 

,,  v.  italica 

„  v.  boetica 

,,  v.  lusitanica 

„  v.  belgica 

„  v.  mucronata 


„  tenuifolia 
,,  trinervia 
„  angustifolia 
„  laevis 

Jferiwrn  Oleander 
Nicotinafruticosa 
Qlea  amencana 
,,  europxa 
,,fragran& 
j,  capensis 
,,  apetalu 


Pine-leaved  Lobelia 

Haiiy  Lobelia 

Tree  Lupin 

Japan  Box-thorn 

African  do. 

Chinese  do. 

Shrubby  Willow-herb 

Laurel- leaved  Magnolia 

Japan  purple  Mag-nolia 

Downy-leaved  Japan  do. 

Elliptic-leaved  China  do. 

Wing-leaved  Mahernia 

Whorl-leaved  do. 

Cut-leaved  do. 

Narrow-leaved  Mallow 

Bryony-leaved  do. 

Gooseberry-leaved  do. 

Shrubby  Moon  Trefoil 

Broom-leaved  Meialeuca 

St.  J:)lm's-wort-leaVed  do. 

Bead-Tree,  Pride  of  China 

Great  Honey-flower 

Small  do. 

Harsh-leaved  Metrosideros 

Narrow-leaved  do. 

Lance-leaved  do. 

Whorl-leaved  Mimosa 

Myrtle -leaved  do. 

Furze-leaved  do. 

Sword-leaved  do. 

Sickle-leaved  do. 

Sweet-smelling-  do. 

Little  Harsh  do. 

Orange  Monkey-flower 

African  Candleberry  Myi 

Oak-leaved  do. 

Three-leaved  do. 

Heart-leaved  do. 

Cut-leaved  do. 

Azorian  do. 

Common  European  Myrtl« 

Broad-leaved  do. 

Box-leaved  do. 

Upright  do. 

Orange-leaved  do, 

Portugal  do. 

Broad-leaved  Dutch  do. 

Rosemary-leaved  do.  (with  double- 
flowering,  gold  and  silver  edged, 
&c.) 

Fine-leaved  Myrtle 

Three-nerved  do. 

Narrow-leaved  do. 

Smooth  do. 

Oleander  (single  and  double) 

Shrubby  Tobacco 

American  Olive 

European  do. 

Fragrant  Chinese  do. 

Cape  Olive 

New  Zealand  <J», 


- 


618 


A  CATALOGUE  OF 


,,  exceisa 
Qnonis  fniticosa 

,,  natrix 

,,  j*  rotundifolicl 
Qsteospennum  moni  lifer  um 
Origanum  Dictamnus 
Otbonna  pectinata 

,,  cbe'tri  folia 
Panax  arborea 

,,  aculeata 
Passtrina  filiform  it 

,,  grandifiora 
Passiflora  cxrulea 
Pelargonium  radula 

typeltatum 

,,  acetosum 

,,  tetragonum 

„  glutinoswm 

,,  betulinum 

,,  cordifolium 

,,  bicolor 

„  tricolor 

,,  ceratophyllum 

,,  echinatum 

,,  ternatum 

,,  crassicaule 

„  reniforme 

,,  tomentosum 

„  pulcbellum 

,,  inquinans 

Jj  gibbosum, 

„  zonale 

„  v.  variegatum 

,,  yuercifolium 

„  vitifolium 

„  capitatum 

,,  ecbinatum 

„  ovate 

,,  crispum 

longiflorum 
,  lacerum 
,  betonicum 
,  multicaule 
,  anemontfoliutn 
carnosum         . 
ifulgidum 
papilionaceum 
monstrum 

„  angulosum 

,,  acerifoliunt, 

,,  cotyledonis 

„  scabmm 

„  lanceolatum 


„  odoratissimum, 
,,  alcbimilloides 
,,  grossularioides 
,,  alth<£oides 
,,  coriandrtfoliutn 
,,  tabular  e 


Madeira  do. 

Shrubby  Rest-harrow 

Yellow-flowered  do. 

Round -leaved  do. 

Poplar  leaved  Osteospermum 

D  ittany  of  Crete 

Wormwood-leaved  Othonna 

Stock-leaved  do. 

Tree  Panax 

Prickly  do. 

African  Sparrow-root 

Great- flowered  do. 

Common  palmated  Passion-flov.er 

Rasp-leaved  Geranium 

Ivy-leaved  do. 

Sorrel  do. 

Square -stalked  do. 

Clammy  do. 

Birch-leaved  do. 

Heart -leaved  do. 

Two-coloured  do. 

Three-coloured  do. 

Horn-leaved  do. 

Prickly-stalked  do. 

Tern  ate  do. 

Thick-stalked  do. 

Kidney-leaved  do. 

Downy  Pennyroyal  do. 

Nonesuch  do. 

Scarlet-flowered  do. 

Gouty  do. 

Horse-shoe  do. 

Variegated  do. 

Oak-leaved  do. 

Balm-scented  do. 

Rose-scented  do. 

Prickly-stalked  do. 

Oval-leaved  do. 

Curled-leaved  do. 

Long  flowered  do. 

Jagged-leaved  do. 

Betony-leaved  do. 

Many-stalked  do. 

Anemone-leaved  do. 

Fleshy-stalked  do. 

Celandine-leaved  do. 

Butterfly  do. 

Cluster-leaved  do 

Marsh-mallow-leaved  do- 

Maple-leaved  do. 

Hollyhock-leaved  dOj 

Rough-leaved  do. 

Lance  or  Spear-leaved  do. 

or  nearly  Herbaceous. 

Sweet-scented  Geranium 
Lady's-mantle-leaved  do- 
Gooseberry-leaved  do. 
Althaea-leaved  do. 
Coriander-leaved  do. 
Rough-stalked  do. 


GREEN-HOUSE  TREES  AND  SHRUBS. 


619 


Almost  StemlesS)  Roots  Tuberous. 


„  trlste 


„  lobatum 
Pblomis  Leonurus 
,,fruticosa 
,,  pur  pur  ea 
,y  cbinensis 
,,  Leonid  a 
Pbylica  ericoides 
„  buxifolia 
„  plumes  a 
Pbillyrea 


Phyllis  Nobla 
Pinkneya  pubens 
Pistacia  Lentiscus 
„  t  Terebintbus 
,,  f  officinarum 
Platilobium  formosum 
Plectranibrusfritticosus 
Polygala  tiiyrtifoliq 
„  bracteolata 
,,  Heisteria 
Portulaccaria  afra 
Poterhim  spinosum 
Prasium  majus 

,,  minus 
Protea  argentea. 
,  tnellifera^ 
,  cordata. 
Serraria 
spicata 
,  Scolymus 
,  Conocarpa, 
,  pinifolia 
,  aneino'fiefolid 
,  racemosa 
,  umbellata 
,  plumosa 
,  sericea 
,  grandifiora 

speciosa 
,  Lepidocarpon 
,  fallens 
,  conifer a 
bin  a 
Saligna 
cinerea 
,,  Levisanut 
„  cynaroides 

f  Prunus  Lauro-Cerassus 
„  f  lusitanica 

Ptoralea  pinnata 
,,  bracteata 
„  tenuifolia 


Ni^ht-smelling-  Geranium 
Carrot-leaved  do. 
Vine-leaved  do. 
Scarlet  Phlomis,  or  Lion's  tail 
Shrubby  Phlomis,  or  Jerusalem  Sag-e 
Purple  Phlomis 
Chinese  do. 
Dwarf  Shrubby  do. 
Heath-leaved  Phylica 
Box-leaved  do. 
Woolly-leaved  do. 

See  page  597.  (  a  few  of  these,  especi- 
ally the  variegated  sorts,  should  be 
kept  among  the  Green- House  collecr 
tion) 

Bastard  Hare's-ear 
Pubescent  Pinkneya 
Mastick-Tree 
Common  Turpentine  Tree 
Pistachia  Tree 
Large-leaved  Platilobium 
Shrubby  Plectranthrus 
Myrtle- leaved  Milk-wort 
Spear-leaved  do. 
Heath-leaved  do. 
African  Purslane-true 
Prickly  shrubby  Burnet 
Great  Spanish  Hedge- nettle 
Small  do. 
Silveiy-protea 
Honey-bearing  do. 
Heart-leaved^do. 
Cut-leaved  do. 
Spiked  do 

Small  smooth-leaved  do. 
Toothed-leaved  do. 
Pine-leaved  do 
Fork-leaved  do. 
Downy-flowered  do, 
Umbelled  do. 
Feather-flowered  do. 
Silky  do. 

Great-flowered  do. 
Handsome  do. 
Black-flowered  do. 
Pale -flowered  do. 
Cone-bearing  do. 
Hairy  do. 
Willow-leaved  do. 
Gray  do. 
Branching  do. 
Round-leaved  do. (with  upwards  of  40 

other  species) 
European  or  Levant  Laurel 
Portugal-Laurel 
Pinnated  Psoralea 
Oval-spiked  do. 
Fine-leaved  do. 
Bituminous  do, 


620 


A  CATALOGUE  OF 


,,  glandulosa 

Puhenaa  stipularis 
Punica  nuna 

,,  Granatum, 
Pyms  japonica 
f  S^vercus  Ilex 

,,  f  wrens 

,,  f  Suhor 

,,  f  gramuntia 

,,  Built. >t  a 

,,  f  coccifera 
f  Rhamnus  Alaternus 

„  f  v.  angustifolius 

„  f  v.  to],  variegatus 

,,  glandulosus 

„  oleoides 

,,  Prinoidcs 

PJjouodendron  ponticinn 
Rbus  lucidum 

j,  toTnentosum 

•,,  rosmctrinifolium 
Roella  cillata 
f  Jtuscus  H,popbyllum 

„  f  Hypoglossuin 

„  f  racemosus 

,   androgynits 
Riita  cbalepensis 
Sahia  anrea 

,,Jbrmosa 

,,  pom  if  era 

.,  tnexicana 

„  canariensis 

,,  africann 

Santolina  rosinarinifolia 
Sapindus  Saponaria 

,,  Mokorossi 

,,  abruptus 
Scabiosa  africana. 
Schinus  Molle 
Selago  ovata 

,,  corymbose. 
Senecio  cinerascen: 

,,  ilictfollus 

„  rigidus 

Sideroxylon  incrftne 
Solanum  Pseudo  Capsicum 

„  bonarlense 

„  marginatuin 

,,  tomentosum 

,,  vespertilia 
Sophora  tctraptera 

„  tnicropbylla 
Sparmannia  africana 
GpieZirattmia  africana 
Sparthmi  monospermum 

,,  sph.?rocarpum 

„  t  junceum 

f,  f  multiflorum 

,,  sericeum 

„  nubigenum 
\ 


Striped  flowered  do.  (v/ilh  up^-ai'ds  of 

20  other  species) 
Scaly  Pulteniea 
Dwarf  Pomegranate 
Common  do. 
Japan  Apple 

Evergreen  Oak  (3  varieties) 
Live  Oak 

Cork -barked  Oak,  or  Cork  Tre* 
Holly-leaved  Evergreen  Oak 
Barbary  Oak 
Kermes  Oak 
Broad-leaved  Alaternus 
Narrow-leaved  do. 
Variegated-leaved  do. 
Madeira  do. 
Olire-  leaved  do. 
Prinos-leaved  do. 
Purple  Rhododendron 
Shining-leaved  Suraack 
Woolly-leaved  do. 
Rosemary-leaved  do 
Prickly  RoelJa 

Broad-leaved  Butchers-Broom 
Double-leaved  do. 
Alexandrian  Laurel 
Climbing  do. 
African  Rue 
Golden  Sage 
Shining-leaved  do. 
Apple  bearing-  do. 
Mexican  do. 
Canary  do. 

Blue-flowered  African  do. 
Rosemary-leaved  Lavender  Cotton 
Common  Soap-berry  Tree 
Japan  do. 
Abrupt-leaved  do. 
African  shrubby  Scabiou* 
Peruvian  Mastick  Tree 
Oval -headed  Selago 
Fine-leaved  do. 
Gray  Groundsel 
Ilex-leaved  do. 
Hard-leaved  do. 
Smooth  ./Ethiopian  Iron-wood 
Shrubby  winter  Cherry 
Tree  Nightshade 
White  do 
Woolly  do 
Canary  do 

Winged-podded  Sophora 
Small-leaved  shrubby  do. 
African  Sparmannia 
Ilex-leaved  Spielmannia 
White  single-seeded  Broom 
Yellow  single-seeded  do. 
Spanish  do. 
White  Portugal  do. 
Silky  do. 
Teneriffe  do. 


GREEN-HOUSE  SUCCULENT  Sc  HERBACEOUS  PLANTS.    C21 


f  Sterculia  ptatanifolia 
Strutbiofa  trecta 

„  virgdta 

Tunaceturn  flabtttifbwnc 
jf'arcbonantbus  campboratns 
Taxiis  elongata 
fetragonia  Jruticosa 
^eucriu'infniilcans 

,,  latifotium 

, ,  flu  <vu  m 

„  betonicinn 
Fbca  Bobea 

,,  viridis 

3'bytnbra  spicata 
Vaccinium  Arctostaphylos 
Verbena  tripbylla 
Veronica  decussata 
Viola  arborescens 
f  Vltex  Agnus  Castus 

,,  Ncgundo 
f  Ulex  europaens 
Urtica  nivea 
Xerantbemum  vcstitum 

,,  speciosissimum 

„  canescens 

,,  seiamoides 

,,  retortum 
•{•  1*ucca  gloriosa 

,,  atoifolia 

„  f  draconls 
Zygophyllurn  insuave 

,,  cordifoliuni 

j,  maculatum 


Maple-leaved  Sterctilia 
Smootli  Struthiola 
T vv'iprgy  do. 
Fan-leaved  Tansey 
Shrubby  African  Flea-bane 
African  Yew-tree 
Shrubby  Tetrag-onia 
Narrow -leaved  Tree  Germander 
E road-leaved  do. 
Yellow-flowered  do. 
Hoary  do. 

Broad-leaved  or  Bohea  Tea 
Narrow-leaved  or  green  do. 
Spiked  Thy  m  bra 
Madeira  Whortle-berry 
Three-leaved  shrubby  Verbena 
Cross-leaved  Speedwell 
Shrr.bby  Violet 
Chaste  Tree 
Five-leaved  do. 
European  Furze  or  Whin 
Snowy  Nettie 
Upright  Xeranthemum 
Siuewy  do. 
E  leg-ant  do. 
Superb  do. 
Trailing-  do. 
Superb  Adam's  Needle 
Aloe -leaved  do. 
Drooping-leaved  do. 
Unpleasant  Bean-caper 
Heart-leaved  do. 
Spotted-flowered  do. 


GREEN-HOUSE  SUCCULENT  AND  HERBACEOUS  PERENNIAL, 
AND  BIENNIAL  PLANTS. 


The  succulent  sorts,  whether  herbaceous  or  arboreous,  are 
marked  thus  *,  the  biennials  thus  f,  and  the  most  liardy  thus  \. 
The  latter  kinds  will  generally  abide  the  winters  of  the  middle 
states  in  the  open  ground,  if  planted  in  a  dry  channelly  soil,  in  a 
warm  exposure,  and  their  roots  sufficiently  covered  with  long  litter 
during  the  continuance  of  frost.  The  succulent  kinds,  preserve 
best  in  a  Dry  Stove,  where  such  a  convenience  is  to  be  had  ;  but 
they  will  also  do  very  well  in  a  good  Green-House,  observing  to 
water  them  but  sparingly  in  winter. 


f  Agave  americana 
„  *  v.  Karatto 
f,  *  vivifera 


Great  American  Agave,  or  Aloe 
Hed-sp:ned  do. 
Viviparous  do. 


622 


A  CATALOGUE  OF 


*  Aloe  dicbotoinci 

*  pcrfo'.iata 

*  v.  succotrina 

*  v.  nrhorescens 

*  v.  afHcana 

,,  *  v.  purpurascens 
,  *  v.  gluuca 

*  v.  lineata, 

*  v.  ferox 

*  v.  saponaria 

*  v.  o!.).scura 

*  v.  mitrajformis 

*  v.  brevifolia 

*  aracbnoidet 

*  margariiiftra 

*  verrucosa 

*  maculata 

*  lingua 

*  piicatilis 

*  variegata 

*  viscosa 

*  sp tralis 

*  retusa 
Alstrameria  Pelegrina 
Ancistrum  latebrosum 
Antbericutn  alooides 
Antirrhinum  triornitLopbonnn 
Aristea  capitata 

f  Calceolaria  Fothergillii 
\  Celsia  cretica 

,,  f  Arcturus 
Cineraria  cruenta 
^  Convolvulus  Scatnmonla 

*  Cotyledon  orbiculata 

,,  *  spur ia 

„  *  bemispb  erica 

,,  *  fascicularis 

*  Crasaula  coccinea 

„  *  Cotyledon 
Crotalnria  triflora 
Dianella  cxrulea 
Diaiitbus  albens 
i  Dionaea  Muscipula 
JJidelta  carnosa 
Dracocepbalum  canariensc 
Ely  tr aria  virgata 
Erodium  crassi folium 
„  cbamxdry aides 
i  Erytbrinia  berbacea 
Euphorbia  antiquorum 

canariensis 

beptagona 

mammillarit 

oj/icinarum 

neriifolia 

ineloformis 
\  Ferula  Assa-ftttida 
Iris  cbinensis 
Lobelia  caronopifolia 
Lychnis  coronata 
Mariea  striata. 


Smooth-stemmed  Tree  A'oft 
Pcrfoiiatc  Aloe 
Succotrine  do. 
Narro\v-'eaved  Sword  do. 
Broad-leaved  Sword  do. 
White-spined  glaucous  do. 
Rcxl-spined  glaucous,  do. 
Red-spined  striped  do. 
Great  Hedge-hog  do. 
Great  Soup  do. 
Common  Soap  do. 
Great  Mitre  do. 
Small  Mitre  do. 
Cobweb  do. 
Pearl  do. 

Warted  or  Pearl-tongue  do. 
Spotted  do. 
Tongue  do. 
Fan  do. 

Partridge-breast  do. 
Upright  triangular  do. 
Spiral  do. 
Cushion  do. 

Spotted-leaved  Alstroemeria 
Hairy  Ancistrum 
Aloe-leaved  Anthericum 
Three-bird  Snapdragon 
Tall  Aristea 
Fothergill's  Slipper  wort 
Great-flowered  Celsia 
Scollop-leaved  do- 
Purple-leaved  Cineraria 
Scammony  Convolvulus 
Oval-leaved  Navelwort 
Narrow -leaved  do. 
Thick  leaved  do. 
Cluster-leaved  do. 
Scarlet-flowered  Crassula 
Tree  do. 

Three -flowered  Crotalaria 
Blue  Dianella 
Cape  Pink 
Venus's  Fly-trap 
Succulent-leaved  Dideltsi 
Balm  of  Gillead 
Carolina  Elytraria 
Upright  Crane's-bill 
Dwarf  do. 

Herbaceous  Coral-tree 
Triangular  Spurge 
Canary  Spurge 
Seven-angled  do. 
Warty-angled  do. 
Officinal  do. 
Oleander-leaved  do. 
Melon  do. 
Alsa-foetida  plant 
Chinese  Iris 
Buck's-horn  Lobelia 
Chinese  Lychnis 
Streak-flowered  Marie* 


GREEN-HOUSE  SUCCULENT  Sc  HERBACEOUS  PLANTS.     623 


.Mesembryantbemum  mi  cans  (a) 

,,  bicolorum 

,,  barbatum 

,,  viridtflontsn 

,,  spectabile 

,,  aureum 

,,  noctiflorum 

„  linguif&rme 

,,.splendens 

,,  ttmbellatum 

,,  calamiformc 

,,  digitatum 
cordifoliuin 
bcllidiflorum 
hispidum 
crtusifolium 

,  pomoridianum 

„  grossinn 

,,  canninuin 

,,  dolabriforme 
Micbauxia  campanuloides 
Mimosa  borridula 
Monsonia  speciosa 

„  lob  at  a 
^M.or<KO.  spiralis 

,,  iridioides 
Ndumbium  speciosum 
Nicotiana  undulata 


Two-coloured  do. 
Bearded  do. 
Green -flowered  do. 
Shewy  do. 
Golden  do. 
Night-flowering1  do. 
Broad  Tongue-leaved  do. 
Shining  do. 
Umbelled  do. 
Quill-leaved  do. 
Blunt-leaved  do. 
Heart-leaved  do. 
Daisy-flowered  do. 
Bristly  striped-flowered  do. 
Thick-leaved  do. 
Great  yellow-flowered  do. 
Gouty  do. 
Dog's -chop  do. 
Hatchet-leaved  do.  Sec.  Sec. 
Roug-h-leaved  Mechauxia 
Sensitive  herbaceous  Mimosa 
Large-flowered  Monsonia 
Broad- leaved  do. 
Spiral-flowered  Morxa 
Perennial-leaved  do. 
Red-Indian  Water  Lily  (aquatic) 
New- Holland  Tobacco" 
Blue  Water  Lily  (aquatic) 
Great- flowered  Oenothera 
Long-flowered  do. " 
Rose-flowered  do. 
Three-leaved  Passion-flower 
Herbaceous  Psoralea 
Parnassus-leaved  Crowfoot 
Nubian  Sage 
Blue  do- 
Indian  do. 

Linear-leaved  Selago 
Elegant  double-flowering  Groundsel 
Tree  Houseleek 
Canary  do. 
Clammy  do. 
Gouty  do. 
Gigantic  Catchfly 
Dark-coloured  do. 
Fox-tail  Sophora 
Scarlet  Stachys 
Variegated  Stapelia 
Freckled  do. 
Great-flowered  do. 
Starry  do. 
Star-fish  do. 

Re  volute-flowered  do.  (with  upwards 
of  40  other  species) 

(a}     <Tbe  Mescmbryantfxmums,  though  generally  succulent,  stand  tbe  Green- 
House  extremely  well. 

(b)     Though  this  is  an  annual  plant,  the  double -flowering  variety,  may  be  per- 
manently propagated,  by  slipping  it  annually. 


f  Oenothera  grandijtora 
„  t  longlflora 
,,  rosea 

\  Passiflora  incarnata 
jPsoralea  palcestina 
Ranunculus  parnassifolius 
Salma  nubia 
,,  ccerulea 
,,  indica 
f  Selagn  spuna 

Senecio  elegans,  v.  fl.  plenus  (b) 
*  Sempervivum  arboreum 
,,  *  canariense 
„  *  glutinosum 
„  *  tortuosum 
f  Silene  gigantea 

,,  ornata 

|  Sopbora  alopecuroides 
Stacbys  coccinea 
Stapelia  variegata 
lentiginosa 
grandi  flora 
radiata 
asteria 
revotuta 


624 


A  CATALOGUE  OP 


GREEN-HOUSE  BULBOUS  AND  TUBEROUS  ROOTED  PLANTS, 

The  Far  greater  number  of  which,  are  natives  of  the  Cape  of 
Good  Hope,  and  all  very  ornamental. 


Agapanthus  umbellatu* 
Mbuca  major 

„  minor 
Metris  capensis 
Amaryllis  Belladonna 

,,  equestris 

,,  pur  pur  ea 

,,  sarnierisis 

,,  Pttmilio 

,,  vittata 

„  fulcata 

,,  long  if  alia 

„  orientalit 

„  undulata 

„  revoluta 
jLntholyza  Men  ana. 

„  Merianella 

,,  (ttbiopica 

„  Cunonia 

,,  ringens 

„  pi  ic  at  a 
Bablana  plicata 

,,  villosa 

„  spathacea 

,,  distich  a 

,,  tub  (flora 

,,  strict a 

JBulbocodium  vermum 
Colcbicum  variegatum 
Crinum  tenellum 

,,  linear e 
Cyantlla  capensis 

„  lutea 

,,  alba 
Cyclamen  cotim 

„  europ&um 

„  psrsicum 

„  v.  vernale 

,,  hederaefolium 
Cyrtantbus  obliquus 

,,  angustijolius' 
Eucomis  nana 

„  regia 
,  ,,  undulata 

,,  punctata 
Ferraria  figridla 

,,  undulata 
Geissorhizab  obtusata 
Gladiolus  cardinalis 

„  aecuriger 

..  lineatus 


African  Bl':e  Liiy 

Large  Albuca 

Small  do. 

Wavttd-leaved  Alctris 

Belladonna  Lily 

Barbadoes  do. 

Purple-flowered  Amaryllis 

Guernsey  Lilv 

Dwarf  Amaryllis 

Superb  Amaryllis 

Sickle-leaved  do. 

Loni^-leaved  do. 

Broad-leaved  African  do. 

Waved-flowered  African  do' 

Revolute  Amaryllis 

Red-flowered  Antholyza 

Dwarf  do. 

B mad-leaved  do. 

Scarlet  flowered  do. 

Narrow-leaved  do. 

Piiated-leaved  do. 

Sweet-scented  Babiana 

Crimson  do. 

Stiff-leaved  do. 

Hyacinth-scented  do. 

Long-tubed  do. 

Upright  do. 

Spring-flowering  Bulbocodiuni 

Variegated  Meadow  Saffron 

Dwarf  Crinum 

Linear -leaved  do. 

Purple -flowered  Cyanella 

Yellow-flowered  do. 

White-flowered  do. 

Round-leaved  spring  Cyclamen 

European  Cyclamen 

Persian  do. 

Persian  spring  do. 

Ivy-leaved  do. 

Oblique-leaved  Cyrtanthus 

Narrow -leaved  do. 

Dwarf  Eucomis 

Tongue-leaved  do. 

Waved-leaved  do. 

Spotted  do. 

Mexican  Ferraria  or  Tiger-flower 

Cape  Ferraria 

Yellow-flowered  Geissorhiza 

Superb  Corn-flag 

Copper-coloured  do. 

Pencilled  do. 


GREEN-HOUSE  BULBOUS  ROOTED  PLANTS,  &c.        535 


,,  versicolor 

„  gracilis 

, ,  quadrangular  is 

,,   Watsonius 

,,  birsutus 

,,  recur^us 


tnstis 
,  blandus 
,  undulatun 
viperatus 
Millcri 
angustus 
carneus 
namaquenxis 
,  Jloribundus 
,  alatus 

Hjemantbus  cocci  neus 
,,  puniceus 
,,  pubescens 
„  ci liar is 
„  mitltiflorus 
, ,  •  spirulis 

Hiacinthus  revohttits 
Jijpoxis  plicata 

„  s  tell  at  a 
Iris  pavonia 

,,  papilionaceft 
,,  edulis 
„  tristis 
„  viscaria 
,,  villosa 
,,  ciliata 
Ixia  tricolor 
,,  patens 
7,  bulbifcra 
,  fistulosa 
,  falcata 
,  capillaris 
,  villosa 
,  longiflora 
,  gsandiflora 
,  aristata 
,  crateroides 
,  bicolor 
,  crispa 
,  indnaddpbia 
,  secunda      t 
,  radiata 
„  erecta 
,,  polystacbtd 
,  coluinellari* 
crocdta 
conica. 
rosea 

,  rubro-cyanea. 
,  rocbensis 
,  fcxuosa 

Lacbenalia  tricolor 
,,  quadrieolor 


Changeable  Corn-flag 
Slender  do. 
ScjMare-stalked  do. 
Dwarf  Watson's  do. 
Hoary  do. 
Violet-scented  do. 
Tall  do. 

Square-leaved  do- 
Blush- coloure/1  do. 
Waved-fiowered  do. 
Perfumed  do. 
Miller's  do. 
Narrow-leaved  dd. 
Flesh-coloured  do. 
Thick-leaved  do. 
Larg-e-flowered  do. 
Wing-flowered  do.  &c.  &c. 
Scarlet  Hsemanthus,  or  Blood-flower* 
Waved-leaved  do. 
Downy-leaved  do. 
Fring-ed  do. 
Many-flowered  do. 
Spiral-stalked  do. 
Waved-leaved  Hyacinth 
Pliated-leaved  Hypoxis 
Spotted-flowered  do. 
Peacock  Iris 
Butterfly  do. 
Eatable  do. 
Dull-coloured  do. 
Broad-leaved  do. 
Hairy  do. 
Fringed-leaved  do. 
Three- coloured  Ixia 
Crimson  do. 
Bulb-bearing1  do. 
Hollow-leaved  do. 
Sickle -leaved  do. 
Slender  do. 
Hairy  do. 
Long-flowered  do. 
Great-flowered  do. 
Salver-flowered  do. 
Crimson  do. 
Ringent  do. 
Curled-leaved  do. 
Monadelphous  do. 
One -ranked  do. 
Nodding-fiowered  do. 
Upright  do. 
Many-spiked  do. 
Variegated  do. 
Crocus-flowered  do. 
Orange -coloured  do. 
Rose-coloured  do. 
Red-blue  do. 
Pallid  do. 

Fiexuous  do.  (with  many  other  spe- 
cies and  varieties) 
Three-coloured  LachenaKa 
Four- coloured  do, 
4  L 


626 


A  CATALOGUE  OF 


,,  pendula 

j,  lance<tjoli(t 

,,  violacea 

,,  orcbioides 

,,  palUda 

,,  tiridis 
Lapeyrousia  corymbosa 

,,  juncea 

Lencoiiim  strutnosnin 
IMiuni  japonicum 
jblassonia  ensifoliit 

,,  pus  tula  t  a 

„  I  at  if  alia 

,,  undulatu 
Melantbiutn  unifloruin 

„  junceum 

,,  eucomoides 

„  spicatum 

„  tnonopetaluin 
Melaspbxrula  graminea 
Morxa  longlflora 

,,  tripetala 

,,  tricusfit 

,,  Jlexuosa 

,,  iridi  aides 

„  unguiculatet 
Orchis  bicornis 

,,  came  a 
Ornitbogatum  aureunt 

„  revolutum 

„  niveuin, 

,,  caudatum 

,,  altissimum 


Otbonna  bulbosa 

„  digit  at  a 
Oxalis  versicolor 

„  sericea 

„  cernua 

„  multiflora 

Pancratium  illyricinn 

,,  carolinianum 
SciUa  maritima 

„  v.  radice  rubra 
,,  v.  radice  alba 
•„  peruviana 
,,  japonica 
,,  ainctna 
„  cainpanulata 
„  byacintboidts 
Yricbonema  cruciata 
fritonia  squalida 
,,  fenestrata 
,,  capensis 
„  crisp  a 
,,  deusta 
„  tniniata 
Tulip  a  breyniana 
Walcbendorjia  hirsute* 
„  paniculuta 


Pendulous  Lachcnalia 
Spotted  Copperas-leaved  tlo. 
Violet-coloured  do. 
Spotted-leaved  do. 
Pale -flowered  do. 
Green- flowered  do. 
Level-topped  Lapeyrousia 
C tit-leaved  do. 
Cape  Snowdrop 
Japan  Lily 

Trurnnet -flowered  Massonia 
Shagreen-leaved  do. 
Broad-leaved  do. 
Wave -leaved  do. 
Yellow-floxvered  Melanthium 
Rush-like  do. 
D waif  do. 
Star  flowered  do. 
One-petalled  do. 
Gras-leaved  Melasphsrula 
Cong-flowered  Moraea 
Thi-ee-pelul-like  do. 
Trident-petaled  do. 
Flexuous  do. 
Sword-leaved  do. 
Long-cla\ved  do. 
Yellow-flowered  Cape  Orchis 
Great-flowered  do. 
Golden  Star  of  Bethlehem 
Revolute-flowered  do. 
Snowy  do. 
Long- .piked  do. 
Tail  do. 
Japan  do. 

Bulbous  African  Rag-wort 
Digitate-leaved  do. 

Striped-flowered  Wood  Sorrel 

Si =ky  do. 

Nodding-  do. 

]yi any- flowered  do.  (with  many  other 
species) 

Illyrian  Pancratium 

Carolina  do. 

True  officinal 

Ued-rooted  do. 
White-rooted  do. 

Peruvian  do. 

Japan  do. 

Nodding  do. 

Spanish  do. 

Medeira  Hyacinth  do. 

Channel-leaved  Trichonema 

Sweet-scented  Tritonia 

Open-flowered  do. 

Long-tubed  do. 

Curled -leaved  do. 

Copper-coloured  do. 

Late-flowering  do. 

Cape  Tulip 

Hairy  Walchendorfla 

Panicled  do. 


HOT-HOUSE  TREES  AND  SHRUBS,  &c. 


„  thyrsiflora 
Wutsonia  brew/olio. 
plantaginea 
marginata 
iridifoiia,  v.  fulg-ens 


alctroidcs 
rosea-abla 


927 


Simple-stalked  Walchendorfia 
Short-leaved  Watsonia 
Small-flowered  do. 
Long-spiked  do. 
Scarlet  Flag-leaved  do. 
Lake-coloured  do. 
Aletris-like  do. 
Long-tubed  do. 


HOT-HOUSE   TREES,   SHRUBS,  AND  SUCCULENT  PLANTS. 

Where  there  is  not  the  convenience  of  a  Hot-House,  those 
marked  thus  *,  as  well  as  several  other  kinds,  may  be  preserved  in 
a  good  Green-House. 


Abroma  angusta 
Afrits  precatorius 
Acalypba  v'dlosa 
Acbania  Ma.'vavhcus 

,,  piiosa 
Acbras  matnviosa 

,,  Sapota 

Adansonia  digitata 
A  deli  a  Bernardia 

,,   Ac'idoton 

A  lenantbera  pavoninz 
SEgcipricon  betulinutn 
JEscbjmomsne  grundifioru 

„  cocci n ea 

,,  Sesban 

Agntbopbylliim  aromaticum 
Agave fmtida 

,,  lurldct 

,,  tuber osa 

,,  vwipjra 
Aleurites  trilobj. 
Allamanda,  catbartica 
Alstonia  theceformis 
Amy  r  is  gi  leadens  is 
Anacardium  occidentals 
Andracbne  arborej, 

,,  fnitlcosa 
Annona  muricata 

,,  syuatnosa 

,,  reticulata 

„  tripetala 
Antidesma  alexiteria 
Aquilaria  ovata 
Aracbisfruticosa 
Areca  oleracea 

,,  Catechu 

Argytbamnia  candicans 
Anstolocbia  odoratissiina 
Artocarpus  tncisa 


Map'e-leaved  Abroma 

Jamaica  Wild  Liquorice 

Villous  Acalypha 

Scarlet  Achania 

Hairy  do. 

Mammee  Sapota 

Common  Sapota 

Ethiopian  Sour-gourd 

Villous-leaved  Adeiia 

Box-leaved  do. 

Peacock  Adenanthera 

Birch-leaved  ./Egopricon 

Great -flowered  /Eschynomene 

Scarlet-flowered  do. 

Egyptian  do. 

Aromatic  Agathophyllum 

Fetid  Agave 

Broad-leaved  Vera  Cruz  do. . 

Tuberous-rooted  do. 

Viviparous  do, 

Three-lobed  Aleurites 

Willow-leaved  Allamanda 

Tea-leaved  Alstonia 

Balm  of  Gillead  Tree 

Cashew  Nut 

Tree  Andraclme 

Shrubby  do. 

Rough  Custard  Apple,  or  Sour  Sop 

Undulated  do.  or  Sweet  Sop 

Netted  Custard  Apple 

Cherimola  (of  Miller) 

Lemon-leaved  Antidesma 

Wood  Aloe 

Shrubby  Earth  or  Ground  Nut 

Cabbage  Tree 

Betel  Nut 

Sweet-scented  Argythamnia 

Sweet-scented  Birthwort 

Bread-fruit  Tree 


628 


A  CATALOGUE  OF 


,,  integrifolia 
^rutn  arborescens 

,,  auritum 
Antndo  Batnbos 
*  Asclepias  curdfsavica 

,,  gigantea 

,,  procera 
Assonia  populnea 
Astroniurn.  gra<oeolens 
Airopa  arborescens 
Aver r boa  Bilimbi 

„  Carambola 
Bactris  minor 

„  'major 

JBanara  guianensis 
Banisteria  pttrpurea 

,,  laurifolia 

„  hengbalensis 
Barleria  buxifolia 
Baubinia  variegata 

„  pur  pur  ca 

„  Candida 

,,  tomentosa 
Begonia  nidita 
Bellonia  apinosa 
Bertiera  guianensis 
Besleria  cristata 
Eignonia  pentaphylls. 

,,  Leucoxvl-jji 

„  stans 

,,  indica 

„  cxrulea 

„  longisslma 
Bi\-a  Or  ell  ana 
Blakea  trinervia 
Bocconiafrutescens 
Boehineria  caudata 

,,  r ami/lor a 
Boerha<via  scandans 
Eombax  pcntandrurn. 

„  Ceiba 

,,  heptapbyllum 

,,  gossypiuin 
Bonnctia  Maburia 
Bontia  daphnoides 
Borassus  flabellifonnis 
Bradleja  zcylanica 
Broinciiu 

Brpshnum  Alicastrum 

,,  sfiuriuin 
Bruceaferniginea 
Briinfctsia  americana 
Bubrovna  Guazuma 
Bucbnera  grandiflora 
Bucida  Buceras 
Suddiea  americana 
Bumclia  salicifolia 
Bursera  gi 


In.dian  Jaca  Tree 

Tree  Arum 

Ear-leaved  do. 

Bamboo  Cane 

Curassoa  Asclepias 

Curled-flowered  Gigantic  do 

Bell-flowered  Gigantic  do. 

Cordate-leaved  Assonia 

Stinking-  Astronium 

Tree  Atropa 

Bilimbi  Tree 

Carambola  Tree 

Small  Bactris 

Tall  do. 

Cayenne  Banara 

Purple  Banisteria 

Bay -leaved  do. 

Bengal  do. 

Box-leaved  Barleria 

Variegated  Mountain  Ebony 

Purple  do. 

While  do. 

Downy  do. 

Shining-leaved  Begonia 

Spiny  Bellonia 

Guiana  Bertiera 

Crested  Climbing  Besleria 

Hairy  five-leaved  Trumpet-flower 

Smooth  five-leaved  do. 

Branching-flowered  do. 

Indian  do. 

Blue-flowered  do. 

Wave-leaved  do. 

Arnotto  Tree 

Three-nerved  Blakea 

Shrubby  Bocconia,  Tree  Celandine 

Opposite-ovale-leaved  Boehmeria 

Alternate-broad-leaved  do. 

Climbing  Boerhavia 

Seven-leaved  Silk  Cotton  Tree 

Five-leaved  Prickly-stemmed  do. 

Seven-leaved  many-stamened  do. 

Five-lobed  tomentose  do. 

Cayenne  Bonnet  ia 

Barbadoes  Wild  Olive 

Fan-leaved  Borassus 

Ceylon  Bradleja 

Pine  Apple  (for  species  and  varieties 

see  page  445) 
Jamaica  Bread  Nut 
Milk-wood 
African  Brucea 
Spear-leaved  Brunfelsia 
Elm-leaved  Bubroma 
Great-flowered  Buchnera 
Olive  Bark  Tree 
Long-spiked  Buddlea 
Willow-leaved  Bumelia 
Jamaica  Birch  Tree 


HOT-HOUSE  TREES  AND  SHRUBS,  &c.  629 


1.   Cactuses^  of  a  rotundishform. 

Cactus  mamtnillarls  Small  Melon  Thistle 

,,  v.  spinis  rubicundis  Red-spined  do. 

,,  v.  prolifer  Many-spined  white  do. 

„  Mdocactus  Turk  s  Cap  <lo. 

„  v.  communis  Large  seventeen-angled  do. 

,,  v.  aibispinus  White-spined  14  angled  do. 

,,  v.  recurvuK  Recurved-spmcd  15  .ingled  do. 

„  v.  intortus  Spiral-twisted  14  and  15  angled  do. 

2.   Cereuses,  erect,  sufifwrting  themselves. 

„  Pltajaya  Upright  triangular  Torch  Thistfe 

„  tetragonut  Four-angled  do. 

,,  pentagonus  Five-ang  led  do. 

,,  bexagomts  Six-angied  do. 

,,  bt-ptagonus  Seven-angled  do. 

•epandus  Slender  eight-angled  do. 

Wooiy  up4'i»ht  do. 

Peruvian  eigiil  to  ten-angled  do. 

„  jKojeni  Royeirs  iuao-ai-.gled  do. 

3.   Cereuses  crcej:ing. 

„  grandiflorus  Great  Night  flowering  Cereus 

,,  *  Jiagellifoi'tnis  Pink-flowing  creeping  do. 

,,  *  penduius  Slender  do. 

„  triangularis  Triangular  do.  or  Strawberry -pear 

4.   Ojiuntias,  com/irsssed,  with  proliferous  joints. 

Opuntia  Common  Hardy  Prickly  Pear 

Ficus  indica  Oblong  Indiat;  Fig 

moniiiformis  Necklace  do. 

Tuna  Great  do.  or  Upright  Prickly  Pear 

v.  major  Yellow-spined  do. 

v.  elatior  Black-spined  do. 

cocbenillifer  Cochineal  Indian  Fig 

curassavicus  Small  do.  or  Pinpillow 

Pbjllanthns  Spleenwort-leaved  do. 

spinosissimus  Clustered-spined  do. 

Pereskia  Barbadoes  Gooseberry 

portulacifolius  Purslane-leaved  do. 

alatus  Winged  do. 

Cadia  purpurea  Purple-flowered  Cadia 

eiata  Smooth  Flower-fence 

,,  pulcberrima  Barbadoes  Pric.kly  do. 

brasiliensis  Smooth  Brasiletto 

„  Sappan  Narrow- leaved  Prickly  do. 

„  bijuga  Broad-leaved  Prickly  do. 

Calamus  Rotang     '  Rattan  Cane 

,,  v.  scipionum  Walking-cane  Rattan 

Calopbyllum  Inopbyllum  Sweat-scented  Calophyllum 

Calyptrantbes  resinosa  Resinous  Calyptranthes 

Catnax  guianensis  Guiana  Camax 

Cambogia  Gutta  Gamboge  Tree 

Camcraria  latifolia  Bastard  Manchineel 


630 


A  CATALOGUE  OF 


Canariinn 
Canella  alba 
Capparis  linear  is 
Capraria  iijlora 
Capsicum  baccutum 

„  frutesczr.s 

,,  sinense 
Carica  Papaya 

„  Posoposa 
Carolinea  prln  ceps 
Caryocar  nucifennn 
CaryapLyllus  aromaticuf 
Caryota  urens 

,,  niitis 
Cassia  Fistula 

,,  bicapsularis 

„  javanica 

3,Jruticc>sa 

,,  corytnbosa 
Casuarina  equisetifolia. 
Catcsbcea  spincsa 
Cecropla  peltata 
Cedreta  odor  at  a 
Cedrota  guianensi's 
Cerbera  Abouai 


Centrum  nocturnutn 

,,  latirifolium 

„  -vespertimtm 
C&ionantbus  zeylanica 
Ckrysopbiilvm  Cain  ito 

,,  argenteutn 
Cinchona  ojficinalig 

,,  caribaea 
Citharexyhim  villosum 

,,  cinereum 

„  caudatum 
Clltoria  brasiliana 
Clusia  rosea 

„  fava 

,,  alba 

Cluytia  Ehtteria 
Cqcculoba  Uvifea 

„  tcnuifolia 

,,  pubtscens 
Cocos  mtcifera 

„  acvleata 

,,  gnianensis 
Coffea  arabica 

„  occidentals 
Comocladia  integrifolia 
Connarus  vnonocarpos 
Conocarpus  crecta 
Cony  z  (i  odor  at  a 
Copaifera  officinalis 
Corchorus  htrsutus 
Cordia  nutcropbylla 

,,  Fatagonula 

,,  Collococca 
Corypha  umbraculifera. 


Canarium  Nut  Tree 

Laurel-leaved  Canella 

Linear-leaved  Caper  Tree 

West -India  Tea 

Bird  Pepper 

Shrubby  Capsicum 

Chinese  do. 

West-India  Papaw 

D  \varf  do. 

Digitated  Caroliiica 
.Temate-Jeaved  Caryocar 

Clove  Tree 

Two-seeded  Ceylon  Palin 

Chinese  do. 

Purging-  Cassia 

Six-leaved  do. 

Java  do. 

Shrub  Jjy  do. 

Corymbous  do. 

Horse-tail  Casuarina 

Lily  Thorn 

Trumpet-tree,  or  Snake-wood 
Barbadoes  Bastard  Cedar 

Guiana  Cedrota 

Oval-leaved  Cerbera 

Linear-leaved  do. 

Stellate -leaved  do. 

Night-smelling-  Cestmra 

Laurel-leaved  do. 

Cluster-flowered  do. 

Ceylon  Fring-e-tree 

Broad-leaved  Star-apple 

Narrow-leaved  do. 

Common  JesuitVbark  Tree 

Caribean  do. 

Hairy-leaved  Fiddle-wood 

Ash  coloured  do. 

Long-spiked  do. 

Brasilian  Clitoria 

Rose-coloured  Balsam-tree 

Yellow-flowered  do. 

White-flowered  do. 

Cascarilia  or  Sea-side  Balsam-tree 

Round-leaved  Sea-side  Grape 

Narrow-leaved  do. 

Great-leaved  do. 

Cocoa-nut  Tree 

Great  Macaw  Tree 

Prickly  Pole 

True  Coffe-tree 

Western  Coffee-tree 

Entire -leaved  Comocladia 

Ceylon  Sumach 

Jamaica  Button-tree 

JSweet-scented  Shrubby  Flea-bane. 

Balsam  of  Copaiva  Tree 

Hair)7  Jew's  Mallow 

Jamaica  Broad-leaved  Cordia 

^pear-leaved  do. 

Long-leaved  do. 

Great  Fan  Palm 


HOT-HOUSE  TREES  AND  SHRUBS, 


631 


Cotylodon  latiniatit 

,,  nudlcdillj 
Cratteva  gynandra 

„  fragrant 
Crescentia  Cujetc 

,,  cucnrbitinu 
Crcton  lacciferinn 

,,  coccineum 

,,  line  are 
Gvpania  toir.entosa 

,,  glabra 
Cycas  circinalis 
Cytisus  Cajan 
Dalbergia  lanceolariu 
Daphne  pcndula 

,,  Lagetto 
Datura  arborea 
Dillenia  speciosn 

,,  integra 
Dimorpbafalcala 

„  grandiflr.ra 
Dipteryx  odorata 
Dudon&a  viscosa 
Dolichos  itrens 
l^<jliocarpus  major 
Dracccna  ensifolia 

„  tcrminalfs 

,,  marginata 
Duranta  Plumieri 
Ebretia  tinifolia 

„  spinosa 
ELeagnus  latifolici 
Elaeis  guineensis 
Eltfocarpus  serratus 

,,  dcntatus 
.Elate  svlvestris 
Erinusfrutescens 
Eritbaiisfruticosa 
Erytbrina  Corallodendron 
E::genia  ^fambos 

,,  malaccensis 
Fcgara  Euodia 

,,  Pterota 
Fiigraa  zeylarJca 
Ftcus  nyrnphxifolia. 

,,  religiosa 

,,  bengalensis 

,,  lucida 

,,  indica 

,,  Sycomorus 
Gxrtnera  racemosa 
Gcircinia  Mangostana 

,,  cornea 
Car! en  la  Randla 

,,  latifolia 

,,  gitrmnifera 

,,  dumetcruni 

,,  scandens 

,,ffagrans 
Geojfroya  iiicnnii 
Gesneria 


Cut-leaved  Navel-wort 

Naked-stalked  do.    - 

Thin-leaved  Cratxva 

Sweet-scented  do. 

Narrow-leaved  Calabash-tree 

Broad-leaveddo. 

Gum  Lac  Tree 

Scarlet  Crotou 

Swe<-t-scented  do. 

Downy  Cupania 

Smooth  do.  or  Lcblolly-tre« 

Broad-leaved  Sago  Palm 

Pigeon  Pea 

Lanced  Dalbergia 

Drooping-  Daphne 

Lace-bark  do. 

Tree  Thorn-apple 

Shewy  Dillenia 

Entire-leaved  do. 

Sickle-podded  Diraorpha 

Great-flowered  do. 

Sweet-scented  Dipteryx 

Broad-leaved  Dodonaea 

Cow-itch  Dolichos 

Sweet-scented  Doliocarpus 

S  »vord-leaved  Dragon  Tree 

Canna-leavecl  do. 

Aloe-leaved  do. 

Smooth  Prickly  Duranta 

Tinus-leaved  Ehretia 

Thorny  do. 

Broad-leaved  Oleaster 

Oily  Palm-tree 

Serrated-leaved  Eljeocarpusi 

Dentated-leaved  do. 

Prickly-leaved  Elate 

Shrubby  Erinus 

Shrubby  Erithalis 

Smooth-leaved  Coral-tree 

Narrow-leaved  Eugenia 

Broad-leaved  do.  or  Rose-apple 

Sweet-scented  Fag-ara 

Lentiscus-leaved  do.  or  Iron-wood 

Ceylon  Fagrxrt 

Water-lily-lea\-ed  Fig  Tree 

Poplar-leaved  do. 

Bengal  do. 

Shining-leaved  do. 

Indian  do. 

Egyptian  or  Pharaoh's  Fig; 

Racemed  Gxrtnera 

Man  go  stan  Tree 

Horned  do. 

Round-leaved  Thorny  Gardenia 

Broad-leaved  do. 

Gummy  do. 

Bushy  do. 

Climbing  do. 

Sweet-scented  spinous  do. 

Smooth  Ceoffroya 

Downv  Gesr.em 


632 


A  CATALOGUE  OF 


,,  grandis 
,,  scabra 
Glahrarin  tersa 
G  latfoma  gui-rnensis 
Gfycinc  suaveolens 
Gmelina  asiatica 
Gossypiitm  arboreum 

,,  reUgiosum 
Grias  cauliflora 
Guajacum  officinale 
Guarea  tricbilioides 
Gitettarda  specwslt 
Guii.mdina  Bonduc 
„  Bwducella 
Gustavia  augusta 
Gymnantbes  Ludda 

,,  eliptica 
H.ematoxylum  ca 
Ilaineliia  grandijlora 
Hedysarmn  gyrans 
„  crinitmn 
,,  strobiliferum 
,,  elegans 
Selicteres  baruensis 

,,  Isora 

Heliotropium  fruticositm 
,,  *  penwianum, 
,,  gnapbaloide-s 
JJeritiera  littoralis 
Hernandia  sonora 

,,  oingtra 

Hibiscus  Rosa  sinensis 
„  v.  flore  pleno 
„  populneus 
,,  tiiiaceus 
,,  *   Manibot 
,,  brasiliensis 
Hillia  longiflora 
Hippomane  jMancinella 
,,  biglandnlosa 
,,  spinosa 
Hum  crepitans 
HytnetiiKii  Courbaril 
Hyper  anther  a  Moringa 
Jaquinia  armillaris 
jfasminum  undulatum 
,,  birsutuin 


,,  pubescens 
Jatropha  multifida 
,,   Manihot 
„  variegata 
,,  pandurcefolia 
Ignatia  amara 
Indigofera  argcntea 
,,  sptnosa 
,,  cocci  tiea 
„  Anil 
„  tinctorid 

Jussieua  ereetd 


Great  Gesneria 

Rough  do. 

Silk-wood 

Guiana  Glossoma 

Sweet-scented  Glycine 

Asiatic  Gmelina 

Tree  Cotton 

Spotted- barked  do. 

Arclmvy  Pear 

Officinal  Guaiacum,  or  Lignum  Vitze 

Ash -leaved  Guarea 

She\vy  Guettarda 

Yellow-Bonduc,  or  Nicker-tree 

Gray  Bonduc 

Stately  Gustavla 

Monoicous  Gyninanthes 

Dioicous  do. 

Logv/ood  Tree 

Spanish  Elm,  Prince-wood 

Moving-  Plant 

Cro -:,ked- podded  Hedysarum 

Strobile-bearing-  do. 

Elegant  do. 

Small-fruited  Screw-tree 

Great  fruited  do. 

Shrubby  Heliotropium 

Peruvian  do. 

Gnaphalium-like  do. 

Looking-glass  Plant 

Whistling  Hernandia 

Eff£-fruited  do. 

China  Rose-Hibiscus 

Double-flowering  do. 

Poplar-leaved  Hibiscus 

Lime-tree-leaver)  do. 

Palmate-leaved  do. 

Bras ili an  do. 

Sweet-scented  Hillia 

Machineel  Tree 

Gum  Tree 

Spiny  Manchineel 

Sand-box  Tree 

West-India  Locust-tree 

Horse-radish  Tree 

Obtuse -leaved  Jaqninia 

Wave-leaved  Jasmine 

Hairy  do. 

Slender-twigged  do. 

Pubescent  large-flowered  do. 

French  Physic-nut 

Eatable-rooted  do.  or  Cassava 

Variegated  do. 

Fiddle-leaved  do. 

St.  Ignatius's  Bean-tree 

Silvery-leaved  Indigo 

Thorny  do. 

Scarlet-flowering  do. 

Wild  Indigo 

Dyer's  Indigo  (this  and  the  Anil  ar*" 

suffruticose) 
Upright  Red-stalked  Jussieua 


HOT-HOUSE  TREES  AND  SHRUBS,  Sec. 


633 


coccinea 

,,  pcruviana 

„  fastuosa 

,,  nasuta 
Ixora  coccinea 

,,  alba 

,,  americana 
Kleinhovia  H-,spita 
Lacistema  Myricnides 
Lagcrstramia  regime 

,,  speciosa 
*  Lantana  trifolia 

„  odorata 

„  involucrata 

,,  aculeata 

,,  Catnara 

,,  awe  a 

,,  alba 

Laugeria  odorata 
Laurus  cinnamomum 

,,  Cassia 

,)  Cbloroxylon 

„  *  Per sea 
Laivsonia  inerinis 
Lecythis  grandifloru 
Licuala  sjbinosa 
Ligbtfootia  thexforinis 
Limonia  tnonopkylla. 

,,  *  trlfoliata 

,,  pentapbylla 
Liriodendron  Liliifere 
•>,  Coco 

»»  figo 
Lisiantbus  longlfoliua 

, ,  cordtfoiius 

,,  latifolius 

,,  utnbdlatus 
Lobelia  surinainensis 

,,  acuminata 
,,  stricta 
J^tabca  Piriri 
Macrocnemwn  cocdnfum 
Magnolia  Plumieri 
Malphigia  glabra 
„  nidita 
,,  aquifolia 
„  coccigera 
Mammea  americana 
Manettia  lanceolata 
Mangifera  indica 

,,  jatida 

Meluleuca  Leucadendron 
Melastotna  malabathrica 
,,  trinervia 

*   Jbfelia  setnpervirens 
,,  coinposita 
,,  Azadiracbta  , 

Melicocca  bijuga. 

JMelocbia  odorata 

Mimosa  sensitiva 


Scarlet  Jnsticia 

Peruvian  do. 

Superb  do. 

Dichotomous  do.  (with  many  others) 

Scarlet-flowering  Ixora 

White-flowerhig1  do. 

Jamaica  white-flowering  do. 

Purple-flowering-  Kleinhovia 

Myrica-leaved  Lacistema 

Chang-cable  Lagerstroemia 

Specious  do. 

Three-leaved  Lantana 

Sweet-scented  do. 

Round- leaved  do. 

Prickly  do. 

Various-coloured  do. 

Golden-flowered  do. 

White-flowered  do. 

Sweet-scented  Laugreria 

Cinnamon  Tree 

Wild  Cinnamon 

Jamaica  Laurel 

Allig-ator  Pear 

Smooth  Lawsonia 

Great-flowered  Lecythis 

Thorny  Licuala 

Tea-leaved  Lightfootia 

Simple-leaved  Limorua 

Three-leaved  do. 

Five-leaved  do. 

Lily-flowering-  Liriodendron 

Ovate-leaved  do. 

Lanceolate -leaved  do. 

Long-leaved  Lisianthus 

Heart-leaved  do. 

Broad-leaved  do. 

Ovate-leaved  do. 

Shrubby  Lobelia 

Pointed-leaved  do. 

Upright  do. 

Pipe- wood 

Scarlet  Macrocnemura 

Plumper's  Magnolia 

Smooth-leaved  Barbadoes  Cherry 

Shining-leaved  do. 

Holly-leaved  do. 

Grain -bearing  do. 

American  Mammee-apple 

Lance-leaved- Manettia 

Mango  Tree 

Stinking  do. 

Aromatic  Melnlenca,  or  Cajeput-tres 

Cinnamon-leaved  Melastoma 

Three-nerved  do.  (with  above  60  other 

species) 

Evergreen  Bead-tree 
Indian  (simply  pinnate-leaved)  do. 
White- flowering  do. 
Eijugous  Melicocca 
Sweet-scented  Melochia 
Sensitive  Plant 


4  M 


634 


A  CATALOGUE  OF 


„  fnidiea 
,,  asfrerata 
„  iiilotica 
,,  *  farncsiana. 
„  cornigera 
scandens 


,,  odoratisiimei 
,,  speciosa 
„  Catechu 
,,  laurina 
,,  borrida 

Morinda  umbellata 
Morus  tinctoria 
Muncbhausia  spedosa 
Mur.tingia  Calabura 
Musa  p'aradistaca 

,,  sapientutn 
Myristica  aromatica 
Myroxylon  peruiferum 
Mj/rtus  Pimento, 

,,  tonientosa 

„  biflora 

,,  lucida 

„  acris 
odorum 


,,  coronarium 
Nyctantbes  Arbor  Tristis 
Ochna  Jabotapita 
Ocytnum  grandiflorum 

,,  gratissiwium 
Olea  cernua 
Ompbalea  nucifera 
Opbyoxilii'in  serpentinum 
Ovieda  spinosa 
Pallasia  haliniifolia 
Pandanus  odoratissimus 

Parkinsonia  aculeata 


Humble  and  sensitive  citf. 

Hairy  podded  do. 

Gum  Arabic  Tree 

Farnesian  sweet  Mimosa 

Horned  do.  or  Cuckold  Tree 

Climbing-  Mimosa 

Monodelphous  Egyptian  do. 

Sweet  scented  do. 

Bladder-Senna-leaved  do. 

Catechu  or  Terra  Japonica  Tree 

Laurel-leaved  Mimosa 

Horrid  do.  (with  above  60  other  spe- 
cies) 

Narrow-leaved  Morinda 

Dyer's  Mulberry,  or  Fustick-wood 

Shewy  Monchhausia 

Villose  Muntingia 

Plantain  Tree 

Banana  Tree 

True  Nutmeg-tree 

Balsam  of  Peru  Tree 

All-spice  Tree 

Woolly-leaved  Myrtle 

Two-flowered  do. 

Shining-leaved  do. 

West-India  Wild  Cinnamon 

Sweet-scented  Oleander,  or  South-sea 
Rose 

Broad-leaved  Rose -bay 

Square-stalked  Nyctanthes 

Sweet-scented  Ochna 

Great-flowered  Basil 

Shrubby-Basil 

Madagascar  Olive 

Upright  Omphalea 

Ssarlet-flowered  Ophyoxilum 

Thorny  Ovieda 

Downy-leaved  Pallasia 

Sweet-scented  Pandanus,  or  Screw- 
Pine 

Prickly  Parkins  onia 


\  .   With  undivided  leaves. 


Passijlora  alata 
,,  serratifolia 
,»  laurifolia 
„  inalifonnit 
,,  pallida 
, ,  cuprea 
,,  yuadr  angular  is- 
,,  multijlora 


,,,  lunata. 
,,  Vesper t;  Hit 
,.  rubra 


Wing-stalked  Passion-flower 
Notch  -leaved  do. 
Laurel-leaved  do. 
Apple-fruitedilo. 
Pale  flowered  do. 
Copper-coloured  do. 
Square  -stalked  do. 
Many-flowered  do. 

2.   filth  twQ-ld>ed  leaves. 

Crescent-leaved  do. 
Bat-wing-leaved  do, 
Red-fruited  do. 


HOT-HOUSE  TREES  AltfD  SHRUBS, 


635 


3.   With  three-lobed  leaves. 

rotundifolia  Round-leaved  do. 

punctata  Dotted-leaved  do. 

glaitca  Glaucous-leaved  do. 

minima  Dwarf  do. 

beteropbylla  Narrow-leaved  do. 

subernsa  Cork-barked  do. 

holosericea  Silky -leaved  do. 

4.    With  inultifid-lca-ucs. 


„  serrata 

,,  pedata 
Pavetta  arenosa 
Paullinia  asiatica 

„  triternata 

Pergulana  odoratissima 
Pttina  domingensis 
Petrea  volnbilis 
Pbanix  dact -/I  if  era 
Phyllanthus  Etnblica 
PbytoLacca  dioica 
Pinus  occidentalit 
Piper  ntgrum 

„  Bttel 

,,  Amalago 

„  longnm 

Piscidia  Rtythrinia 
Pitcairnia  bromelitffolia 
Plinin  pedunculata 
Plumbago  rosea 
Plumeria  rubra 

,,  alba 

,,  pudica 
Porttandia  grandiflora 

„  bexaadra 
*  Psidium  pomiferum 

>»  *  pyriferum 

„  grandijlorum 
Psy:boiriit  <oiolacea 
Pterocarpus  Draco 

,,  Santolimit 
Quassia  (imara 

,,  Simaruba 
Rauwolfia  nidita 
Rcnealtnia  exaltata 
Ricberla  grandis 
Jfivina  binmiis 

„  terns 

Robinia  wolacea 
Robinsonia  melianthifolia 
Rolandra  argentea 
Ronddetia  amtricana 
Royena  myrtifolia 

ia  patula 

„  cordifolia 


Serrate-leaved  do. 

Curled-Howered  do. 

Sand  Plant 

Asiatic  Paullinia 

Triternate  do. 

Sweet-scented  Pergruaria 

St.  Domingo  Petitia 

Twining-  Petrea 

Date  Palm-tree 

Shrubby  Phyllanthus 

Tree  Phytolacca 

West-Indian  Pine  Tree 

Black  Pepper 

Betel  do. 

Rough -leaved  Pepper 

Long  Pepper  (with  upwards  of  5C 
other  species) 

Jamaica  Dogwood  Tree 

Scarlet  Pitcairnia 

Pedunculated  Plinia 

Rose-coloured  I^ead-wort 

Red  Plumeria 

White  do. 

Close-flowered  do. 

Great-flowered  Pojrtlandia 

Hexandrous  do. 

Red  Guaya 

White  do. 

Great-flowered  do. 

Violet-coloured  Psychotria 

Dragon's-blood  Tree 

Red  Saunder's  Tree 

Officinal  bitter  Quassia 

Simaruba  do. 

Shining  Rauwolfia 

Lofty  Renealmia 

Grand  Richeria 

Downy  Rivina 

Smooth  do. 

Violet-flowered  Robinia 

Melianthus-leaved  Robinsoni» 

Silvery-leaved  Rolandra 
American  Rondeletia 
JVIyrtle-leaved  Royena 

Spreading  Ruellia 
Jieart-leaved  d». 


C36 


A  CATALOGUE  OF 


Samara  florihu  nda 
Sainyda  rosea 
Santaliim  album 
Sida  arborea 

„  triquetra 

,,  excelsior 

Sideroxi'lon  tomentosuin 
Sipbonia  elastica 
Solandra  grandiflora 
Solatium  inacrocarpon 

,,  campecbiense 

,,  verbascifoliinn 

,,  dippy  I  lum 

,,  indicum 

Spatbelia  simplex 
Spondiaa  Alombin 

„  Mjrobalanus 

,,  dulc is 
Strycbnos  Nux  vomica 


Stv 


Benzoin 


Swnrtzia  grandiflora 
Svtietenia  Mubagoni 
$i>mplocc?  martinicensis 
¥abernxmontana  citrifolia 

„  grandiflora 

,,  cymes  a 

,,  laur  'folia,  &c. 
Tamarimtus  indica 
Tern  in  .•;//.•  t  angustifalia 
ffheabro'mti   Cacao 

,.   Giiazurna    '  " 
ybco{>hrust  a  americana 


tTournefortia  c;nnosa 
,.  volttbitii 

Tricbilia  birta 

„  glabra 

friopterisjainaicensis 
i  Bfirtramiu 

,,  semitriloba 

angustifoiia 
Urena  lobata 

„  si  nu  at  a 

Varronia  curassavica. 
Vinca  rosea 

„  v.  alba 
Volkaineria  aculeata 

„  ineniiis 
Waltberia  atnericana 

,,  indica 

Wintera  aromatica 
Winter  ania  Candla 
Xinienia  americana. 
Xytopbylla  latifolia 

,,  falcata 
Zamia  integri  folia 

,,  debilis 

9)  fur  fur  ace  a 


Bundle-flowered  Samara 

Rose-coloured  Samyda 

"White  or  Yellow  Saunders  Trea 

Great-flowered  Sida 

Triangular-stalked  do. 

Tall  Tree  do. 

Downy-leaved  Ironwood 

Indian-Rubber  Tree 

Great-flowered  Solandra 

Smooth  fleshy-leaved  Nightshade 

Yellow-spined  do. 

Mullein-leaved  do. 

Two-leaved  do. 

Indian  do.  (with  upwards  of  40  other 

species) 

Rims-leaved  Spathelia 
Purple  Hog-  or  Spanish  Plum 
Yellow  Jamaica  do. 
Sweet  Hog  Plum 
Poison  Nut 
Benzoin  Storax 
Great-flowered  S \vartzia 
Mahogany  Tree 
Martinico  Simplocos 
Citron-leaved  Tabernaemontana 
Great-flowered  do. 
Cyme-flowered  do. 
Laurel -leaved  do. 
Tamarind  Tree 
Narrow-leaved  Terminalia 
Chocolate  Nut-tree 
Elm-leaved  do.  or  Bastard  Cedar 
American  Theophrasta 
Balsam  oi'Tolu  Tree 
Broad-leaved  Tournefortia 
Climbing-  do. 
Hairy  Trichilia 
Smooth  do. 
Jamaica  Tnopteris 
Currant-leaved  Triumfetta 
Mallow-leaved  do. 
Narrow-leaved  Turnera 
Angular- leaved  Urena 
Cut- leaved  do. 
Long-spiked  Varronia 
Red  Madagascar  Periwinkle 
White  do. 
Prickly  Volkameria 
Oval-leaved  smooth  do. 
American  Waltheria 
Indian  do. 

Winter's  Bark  Tree 
American  Winterania 
An)erican  Ximenia 
Broad-leaved  Sea-side  Laurel 
Narrow-leaved  do. 
Dwarf  Zamia 
Long- leaved  do. 
Broad-leaved  do. 


HOT-HOUSE  HERBACEOUS  PERENNIAL  PLANTS,  &c.       537 


HOT-HOUSE  HERBACEOUS  PERENNIAL  PLANTS,  Sec. 


Those   marked  thus  *  will  keep  in  a  good  Green-House  : 
such  as  are  marked  thus  t  are  biennial. 


Aletrisfragrans 

,,  byactntboides 

»  gitineensis 
Allionia  •oiolacea 
Alstratneria  Ligtu 
Andropogon  contortum, 

,,  Scbtfnantbus 
JBarlearia  Prionitcs 
t  Baseila  rnbra 

,,  f  alba 

*  Canna  indica 

v.  rubra 
v.  lute a 
V.  coccinea 
v.  patens 
glauca 
angusiifolia 
J)orstenia  Contrajerva 
JLpidendrum  cocbltatum 
,,  en&ifolium 
3,  fragrant 

Gompbrena  perennis 

t   Gossypium  barbadense 

Hedycbium  coronarium 

f  Hedysarum  vtspertilionis 

Hsliconia  Bibai 

,,  psittacorum, 

,,  birsuta 

,,  bumilis 
Kyttingia  triceps 
Lobelia  iongijiora 
Marica  northiana 
Pbaseolus  Caracalla 
Polypodium  aureum 

„  trifoliatum 
Psycbotria  emetica 
Saccbarum  officinarum 
Senecio  Pseudo  China 
Spbaerantbus  indicus 

*  Strelitzia  Reginx 
Iradescantia  discolor 

,,  rtialabanca, 
Witberingia  suUincea 


S\veet-scented  Aletris 

Qeylon  do. 

Guinea  do. 

Violet-coloured  Allionia 

Striped-flowered  Alstrocmeria 

Twisted  Andropog-on 

Sweet  Rush,  or  Camel's-hay 

Herbaceous  Barlearia 

Red  Malabar  Nightshade 

White  do. 

Indian  Reed,  or  Shot 

Red  do. 

Yellow  do. 

Scarlet  do. 

Spreading-flowered  do. 

Glaucous-leaved  do. 

Narrow-leaved  do. 

Angular-leaved  Doi  sterna 

Many-flowered  Epidendrum 

Sword-leaved  do. 

Sweet-scented  do.  (with  various  other 

species) 

Perennial  Globe  Amaranth 
Barbadoes  Cotton 
Sweet-scented  Garland-flower 
Bat-winged  Hedysarum 
Bastard  or  Wild  Plantaia. 
Parrot  Heliconia 
Shaggy  do. 
Low  do. 

Three-headed  Kyllingia 
Long-flowered  Lobelia 
Broad-stemmed  Marica 
Twisted-flowered  Kidney-bean 
Golden  Polypody 
Three-leaved  do 
True  Ipecacuanha 
Common  Sugar-cane 
Chinese  Groundsel 
Indian  Sphaeranthus 
C anna-leaved  Strelitzia 
Purple-leaved  Spider-wort 
Grass-leaved  do. 
Yellow-flowered  Witheringia 


(538  A  CATALOGUE  OF 


HOT-HOUSE  BULBOUS  AND  TUBEROUS-ROOTED  PLANTS. 


Those  marked  thus  *  are  bulbous,  the  others  have  tuberous 
or  fleshy  roots. 

Such  of  the  following,  as  well  as  of  the  Green-House  bulbous 
and  tuberous-rooted  plants,  as  their  foliage  and  rooted-fibres  decay, 
on  the  afifiroach  ofnvinter,  may  then  be  taken  up,  sufficiently  dried, 
and  preserved  in  -very  dry  sand,  moss,  chaff,  or  saw -dust,  and  care- 
fully protected  from  damp  and  frost  till  spring  ;  when  they  should 
be  replanted  in  pots  of  suitable  compost,  and  these  plunged  in  the 
bark-pit  or  in  a  moderate  hot  bed,  to  forward  the  vegetation  of  the 
roots.  Some  kinds  such  as  the  Polianthes  tuberosa,  or  common 
Tuberose,  Amaryllis  formosissima,  or  JacobeaLily,  Sec.  will  bear  to 
be  kept  in  this  dry  state  till  the  first  week  in  May,  or  as  a  more 
general  direction,  to  the  '  period  of  planting  the  first  or  earliest 
crops  of  Indian  corn,  and  then  planted  in  the  open  ground  or  in 
pots,  where  they  will  flower  in  good  perfection.  Other  sorts  have 
a  natural  tendency  to  vegetate  and  keep  their  foliage  during  winter, 
which  foliage  generally  decays  in  the  months  of  June  or  July,  when 
their  roots  may  be  taken  up,  but  those  should  be  replanted  as  soon 
after,  as  they  shew  the  least  disposition  to  vegetate,  by  the  emission 
of  root-fibres  or  thr,  swelling  of  their  leaf-buds.  Others  again,  for 
instance  the  Amaryllis  Belladonna,  have  strong,  fleshy,  root-fibres, 
which  keep  fresh  during  the  seemingly  dormant  state  of  the  bulbs  ; 
these  should  not  be  taken  up  oftener  lhan  every  second  or  third 
year,  and  then  only  to  deprive  them  of  their  offsets  and  give  them 
fresh  compost. 

Amaryllis  formosisai ma  Jacobea  Lily 

regime  Mexican  do. 

an  re  a  Golden  dr. 

reticulata  Tall-stalked  do. 

ornata  Cape-Coast  do. 

Zfylanica  Ceylon  do. 

Amonwm  Zinziber  True  Ginger 

„  Zerumbet  Broad-leaved  do. 

„  syfoestre  Great-wild  do. 

,,  M'toga  Japanese  do. 

„  Caraamomvm  Cardamum 

,,  Granum  Parodist  Grains  of  Paradise 

,,  Galanga  Galangale 

Arum  Colocasia  Egyptian  Arum 

„  bicolorum  Painted  do. 

„  vcnosum  Purple-flowered  do. 

,,  esculentum  Eatable  do. 

,,  sagittaefolium  Arrow-leaved  do. 

Commelina  tuberosa  Tuberous-rooted  Conunelifja 

Convolvulus  Jalapa  True  Jalap  Convolvulus 

*  Crinum  America*um  Great  American  Crinum 

„  *  erubescent  Small  American  Crinum 


GRASSES  AND  OTHER  PLANTS  USED  IN  FARMING.      539 


„  *  asiaticum 

,,  *  nervosum 
Curcuma  rotunda 

,,  longa 

Cyclamen  indicuin 
IJioscorea  saliva 

„  alata 

Gloriosa  superba 

*  Iris  martinicensis 
Kteinpferia  Galanga 

,,  rotunda 
*Limodoruin  altum 

,,  *  Tankeriiilia 

,,  *  virens 

„  *  recurvum 
Litarosea 

,,  c<erulea 
Maranta  arundinacea 

*  Marica  pa'.udosa 

,,  *  pUcata 

*  Pancrattum  mexicanum 

„     caribceum 
„     littorals 
,,     verecundum 
,,      amboinensc 
,,      zeylanicum 

*  Polianthes  tuberosa. 


Asiatic  do. 

Nerved-leaved  do. 

Round-rooted  Turmeric 

L  on  g  -rooted  do . 

Indian  Cyclamen 

Cultivated  Dioscorea,  or  Yam 

Wing-stalked  do.  (with  several  other 

less  valuable  species) 
Superb  Lily 
Martinico  Iris 
Galengfale  Kacmpferia 
Round  do. 
Tall  Limodorum 
Chinese  do. 
Striated-flowered  do. 
Striated-bulbed  do. 
Rose-coloured  Lita 
Blue  do. 

Indian  Arrow-root 
Marsh  Marica 
Small-flowered  do. 
Mexican  Pancratium 
Caribean  clo. 
Tall  do. 

Narcissus-leaved  do. 
Broad-leaved  do. 
Ceylonese  do. 
Tuberose 


GRASSES  AND  OTHER  PLANTS  USED  IN  FARMING. 

THE  following  are  selected,  as  the  most  important  and 
valuable  plants,  used  in  rural  ceconomy:  the  grasses  and  other 
plants  cultivated  for  their  foliage,  are  particularly  such  as  have 
been  found  to  merit  attention;  a  knowledge  of  their  true  names 
is  the  first  step  towards  obtaining  them,  and  when  obtained,  it 
is  of  serious  importance,  to  cultivate  each  sort  in  the  soil  and  situa- 
tion best  adapted  to  its  nature,  which  is  carefully  pointed  out  in  the 
following  list. 

The  judicious  cultivation  of  glasses,  though  the  least  expensive 
aixd  most  profitable  part  of  husbandry  (for  on  it  every  other  part 
may  be  said  to  depend)  has  hitherto  been  too  much  neglected  by 
the  generality  of  our  farmers,  and  in  this,  they  have  been  blind 
to  their  best  interests. 

In  order  to  be  successful,  a  farmer  should  endeavour  to  procure 
and  cultivate,  such  grasses  and  other  vegetable  productions,  as  are 
peculiarly  adapted  to  the  various  soils,  of  which  his  plantation  is 
composed  ;  so  that  every  spot,  from  the  dryest  hill  to  the  wetest 
swamp,  may  be  employed  in  yielding  him  profitable  productions. 

Those  marked  thus*,  are  indigenous,  or  native  plants  of  the 
United  States,  and  such  as  are. marked  thus  f,  of  the  West  Indies 
and  warmer  parts  of  America. 


640 


A  CATALOGUE  OF 


Agros tis stricta  fofWiUdenotoJ Herd-grass  (wet  or  moist  soil) 


Alopecurus  pratensis 
Antboxantbum  odoratum 

f  Arachis  hypogxa 
Avena  elatior 

,,  Jfovetcent 

,,  sativa 


,,  nuda 

,,  or  tent  alis 

*  Bromus  purgans 
CfJ  n  n  a  bis  sativ  a 

j"   Convolvulus  Batatas 

*  Cinna  arundinacea 
Crocus  officinalis 
Cynosurus  cristatut 

*  L,yperus  tsculentus  (a) 

*  Dactylis  glomerata 

„  *  cynosuroides 

Ervtnn  Lens 

*  Ftstuca  fiuitans 

„  *  elatior 
„  *  pratensis 
Glycyrrbiza  glabra 

*  Gossypium  berbaceurn 
Hedysarum  Onobrycbis 
Holcus  lanatus 

„  Sorghum 

„  v.  rubens 

„  saccbaratus 

„  bi color 
Hordeum  vulgare 

,,  hexasticbon 

,,  disttcbon 

,,  v.  nudum 
Linum  usitatissimuin 
Lolium  perenne 

Medicago  sativa 
"  falcata 
,,  lupulina 

*  Nicotiana  Tabacum 

„  *  v.  ang'ustifolia 

,,  *  v.  latissima 
Oryza  sativa  (b) 
Panicutn  miliaceum 

,,  genrianicum 

.,  *  itaiicutn 


Meadow  Fox-tail-grass  (moist  soil) 
Sweet-scented   Vernal-grass    (moderately 

dry) 

American  Earth  or  Ground-nut 
Tall  Oat-grass,  French  Ray-grass  (mode- 
rately dry) 

Yellow  Oat -grass  (erood  dry  ground) 
Cultivated  Oat.     Varieties,  1.  White.  2. 

Black.    3.  Brown,  or  Red.    4.  Potatoe. 

5.  Poland.     6.  Friezlancl,  or  Dutch.    7. 

Siberian  or  Tartarian. 
Naked  Oat,  or  Pilcorn 
Oriental  Oat 

Purg-iug*  Brome-grass  (wet  soil) 
Con.mon  Hemp 
Sweet  Potatoe 

Reedy  Canadian-grass  (wet  soil) 
True  Officinal  Saffron 
Crested  Dog's-tail-grass  (dry  soil) 
Esculent  Cyperus  (a  rich  loam) 
Orchard-grass.     (Orchards  and  good  mo- 
derately dry  meadow  ground) 
Swamp    Cock's-foot-grass    (swamps   and 

moist  soils) 

Common  Hat-seeded  Lentil 
Flote  Fescue-grass  (swamps  and  wet  soils) 
Tall  Fescue-grass  (moderately  moist) 
Meadow  Fescue-grass  (moderately  dry) 
Common  Liquorice 
Common  Cotton 
Saintfoin  (dry  deep  soil) 
Meadow  Soft-grass  (moist  soil) 
Guinea  Com.      Indian  Millet 
Red-seeded  do. 
Broom  Corn.     Guinea  Wheat 
Two-coloured  Holcus 
Spring  Barley 
Winter  Barley,  or  Bere 
Two-rowed  Barley 
Naked  Barley 
Common  Flax 
English   Ray-grass    (rich    and    tolerably 

moist) 

Lucern  (a  rich  dry  sandy  loam) 
Yellow  Medic  (a  dry  soil) 
Hop  Medic  or  Trefoil 
Broad-leaved  Virginian  Tobacco 
Narrow-leaved  do 
Oronoke  do. 
Common  Rice 
Large  common  Millet 
German  Millet 
Italian  Millet 


(a)  Tbis  grass  deserves  to  be  cultivated,  not  principally  on  account  of  its 
foliage  but  of  its  root-timers,  which  are  numerous,  about  the  size  of  beans,  eata- 
ble, and  considered  superior  to  cbesnuts. 

( ' b)  'I'bere  is  a  variety  of  this,  that  grows  well  on  dry  lands,  which  is  now 
cultivated  near  the  Muskingum  and  in  other  parts  of  the  United  States,  and  is 
lively  to  become  of  considerable  importance. 


OF  GRASSES  AND  PLANTS  USED  IN  FARMING. 


641 


,,  f  maximum  (a) 
f  Paspalum  stoloniferum  (bj 
Phalaris  canarlensis 

„  *  arundinacea 

*  Pbleum  pratense 

*  Poa  stolonifera  (of  Haller) 

,,  trivia  Us 

,,  *  pratensis 

3,  aquatica 

„  *  nervata 

„  *  compress  a 

,,  *  viridis 

Polygonum  Fagopyrum 
Poterium  Sanguisorba, 
Rheum  palmatum 
JRubia  tinctorum 
Secale  cereale,  v.  vernum 

v.  hybernum 
f  Solanum  tuberosutn 
Trifolium  pratense 

„  repens 

,,  ocbroleucum 
Trlticum  cestivum 

,,  bybernum 

,,  turgidum 

„  polonicum 

„  Spelt  a 
Vicia  sativa 
f  Zea  Mays 


Guinea-grass 

Peruvian-grass 

Common  Canary 

Reedy  Canary-grass  (wet  soils,  and  to  fix 

Banks} 

Timothy-grass  (a  moist  heavy  soil) 
Creeping  Meadow-grass  (wet  meadows) 
Rough-stalked  do.  (moist  soil) 
Smooth. stalked  do.  (dry  soil) 
Water  Meadow-grass  (swampy  soil) 
Five-nerved  do.  (wet  meadows) 
Blue  grass  (dry  fields) 
Green-grass  (rich  and  tolerably  moist) 
Buck  Wheat 

Field  Burriet  (dry  good  soil) 
True  Officinal  Rhubarb 
Dyer's  Madder 
Spring  Rye 
Winter  Rye 
Common  Potatoe 

Common  Red  Clover  (moderately  dry 
White  Clover  (dry  soil) 
Yellow  Clover  (dry  ground) 
Spring  Wheat 
Winter  Wheat 
Turgid  or  Cone  Wheat 
Polish  Wheat 
Spelt  Wheat 
Common  Vetch  or  Tare 
Indian  Corn 


(a}  This  grass  is  by  much  too  tender  to  bear  the  winter  frosts  of  the  middle 
or  eastern  states,  but  succeeds  well  in  Georgia,  and  in  the  warmest  parts  of 
South  Carolina.  < 

(b)  This  is  nearly  as  tender  as  the  preceding,  and  therefore  not  answerable 
for  the  middle  or  eastern  states.  The  Avena  elatior  or  tali  Oat-grass,  /.y  by 
mista&e  called  Pervian  and  Andes  grass,  in  the  county  of  Delaware,  near 
Philadelphia,  and  in  part  of  the  state  of  Delaware,  where  it  is  cultivated:  it  & 
called  meadow  oats,  about  Lancaster,  Pennsylvania, 


4  N 


542  OMITTED  IN  OCTOBER. 


OMITTED  IN  THE  KITCHEN-GARDEN  FOR  OCTOBER, 


Planting  large  Onions  for  producing  Seed. 

FOR  this  purpose  make  choice  of  a  piece  of  good,  rich,  light, 
ground,  which  dig  a  full  spade  deep,  breaking  it  fine  as  you  proceed; 
when  ready,  select  a  number  proportionate  to  the  quantity  of  seed 
you  intend  to  save,  of  the  firmest,  largest  and  best  shaped  onions, 
and  of  the  most  desirable  kinds,  observing  that  each  variety  is  to  be 
planted  separately,  and  remote  from  any  other. 

T  ie  middle  of  October,  or  any  time  between  that  and  the  end  of 
the  month,  is  the  most  eligible  time  for  planting,  as  the  bulbs  will 
have  time  to  establish  roots  or  fibres,  which  will  greatly  support 
th  !  a  luring  winter,  and  render  them  less  liable  to  injury  from  frost, 
than  if  planted  at  a  later  period. 

Having  your  ground  du^  and  the  roots  in  readiness,  lay  it  out 
into  four  feet  wide  beds,  with  a  fourteen  inch  alley  between  each  ; 
then  strain  a  line  about  six  inches  within  the  side  of  a  bed,  and  with 
a  spade  throw  out  an  opening  or  drill  about  five  inches  deep  the 
length  of  the  bed,  in  which  lay  the  onions  seated  handsom  ly  on 
their  bottoms,  about  nine  inches  distant  one  from  the  other ;  then 
-with  a  rake,  draw  the  earth  into  the  opening  so  as  to  cover  the 
bulbs  from  three  to  four  inches  above  their  crowns  ;  remove 
the  line  a  foot  farther  back,  plant  another  row  as  before,  and  so 
continue  till  the  first  bed  is  planted  containing  four  rows ;  after 
which  proceed  with  the  others  in  the  same  way,  to  tire  end ;  then 
with  a  spade  or  shovel  cast  over  the  beds,'  a  slight  dressing  from 
the  alleys,  and  finish  by  raking  them  neatly,  drawing  off  the  stones 
and  any  large  lumps  of  earth  from  the  surface. 

In  March  the  leaves  will  appear  above  ground,  after  which  they 
are  to  be  kept  perfectly  free  from  weeds ;  many  of  the  roots  will 
produce  three  or  four  stalks  each,  which  towards  the  latter  part  of 
May  will  have  grown  to  their  full  height,  when  you  must  be  pro- 
vided with  a  sufficient  number  of  stakes,  about  four  feet  long,  to 
drive  into  the  ground  in  the  rows  of  onions,  at  the  distance  of  from 
six  to  eight  feet,  stake  from,  stake  in  each  and  every  row,  to  which 
are  to  be  fastened,  double  lines  of  pack-thread,  rope-yarn,  or  small 
cord,  to  run  on  each  side  of  the  stems  of  the  onions  a  little  below 
their  heads,  to  support  and  prevent  them  from  breaking  down 'by 
wind  and  rain ;  and  if  those  are  tied  together  at  intervals  between 
stake  and  stake,  they  will  the  more  effectually  support  the  plants. 
This  is  the, more  necessary,  as  when  the  seeds  are  formed,  the 
heads  become  very  heavy,  and  often  break  down,  even  by  their  own 
weight,  where  they  are  not  well  secured,  in  which  case,  there  will 
be  a  considerable  loss,  both  in  the  quantity  and  quality  of  the  seed. 

When  the  seed  is  ripe,  which  is  very  perceivable  by  the  capsules 
op  •  "'ied  turning  black,  the  heads  are  to  be  cut  off  and 

spread  thinly  upon  coarse  cloths,  in  the  sun  till  quite  dry,  observing 


OMITTED  IN  DECEMBER.  643 

to  keep  them  under  shelter  at  night  and  in  wet  weather  ;  then  beat 
or  rub  out  the  seed,  fan  it  clean,  expose  it  to  the  sun  for  a  day  or 
two  ufter  and  put  it  up  in  bags  till  wanted  lor  sowing. 

Some  people  plant  the  onions  which  they  intend  to  produce  seed, 
in  spring,  but  when  planted  at  that  season  they  are  never  so  pro- 
ductive of  seed  as  those  planted  in  October,  and  are  much  more 
subject  to  blite ;  howevrr,  when  it  is  so  determined,  it  should  be 
done  as  soon  after  the  middle  of  February,  as  it  is  possible  to  get  the 
ground  in  a  fit  condition  to  receive  them,  and  should  not  be  covered, 
more  than  from  two  to  three  inches  over  their  crowns ;  observing, 
to  select  for  that  purpose,  such  roots  as  have  good  properties  and  no 
growths  from  their  tops. 

A  slight  covering  of  straw  or  light  litter  laid  over  the  October 
planted  beds,  on  the  approach  of  hard  frost,  and  raked  clean  off  as 
soon  as  the  leaves  b,  gin  to  appear  in  spring,  would  be  of  use, 
though  it  is  not  absolutely  necessary  to  the  preservation  of  the 
roots, 


(rj>  OMITTED  BY  MISTAKE  IN  THE  PLEASURE  OR 
FLOWER-GARDEN  FOR  DECEMBER. 

Sowing  Anemone  and  Ranunculus  Seeds. 

THE  double  varieties  of  the  Anemone  hortensis,  or  broad-leaved 
garden  Anemone,  and  Anemone  coronaria,  or  narrow-leaved,  as  well 
as  of  the  Ranunculus  fiersica,or  Persian  Ranunculus,  being  generally 
extremely  beautiful,  are  peculiarly  deserving  of  attention  ;  as  all 
those  delightful  flowers,  displaying  such  a  diversity  of  shades  and 
colours,  are  only  seminal  varieties,  and  as  the  number  of  them  may 
be  annually  increased,  and  superior  varieties  obtained,  no  good 
Florist  will  neglect  to  sow  seeds  of  each  sort  every  year. 

The  seeds  of  either  kind,  should  be  procured  from  semi-double 
flowers,  for  the  full  double  seldom  bear  any,  and  those  produced 
by  the  single,  rarely  give  double  flowers.  Care  should  be  taken  to 
save  ihe  seeds  from  flowers  possessed  of  good  properties,  that  is,  such 
as  have  tall  strong  stems,  a  considerable  number  of  well-formed 
petals,  of  rich,  good,  and  brilliant  colours. 

The  seed  of  the  Ranunculus  should  remain  on  the  plant,  till  it 
has  lost  its  verdure,  and  becomes  brown  and  dry,  it  may  then  be 
cut  off  and  spread  upon  paper,  in  a  dry  room  exposed  to  the  air ; 
-when  perfectly  dry,  it  should  be  put  into  a  paper  bag  and  kept  free 
from  all  dampness  till  the  time  of  sowing,  otherwise  it  would  be  in 
danger  of  contracting  a  mouldiness,  that  would  infallibly  destroy  it, 


£44  OMITTED  IN  DECEMBER. 

The  Anemone  seed  must  be  gathered  from  time  to  time,  as  it 
opens ;  for  being  very  downy  and  light,  it  will  otherwise  be  blown 
away  by  the  first  breezes  of  wind,  or  fall  to  the  ground  and  be  lost. 

It  will  be  found  very  difficult  to  sow  Anemone  seed  in  a  regular 
jnanner  :  it  is  united  with,  and  enveloped  in  a  downy  substance,  that 
upon  being  put  together  in  quantity,  adheres  in  such  a  manner,  as 
to  render  it  necessary  to  rub  it  between  the  hands  for  a  considerable 
time,  in  dry  sand,  previous  to  sowing  ;  otherwise,  the  young  plants 
•would  rise  in  clusters  and  not  have  space  enough  to  form  their 
roots. 

When  you  are  ready  to  sow  your  Ranunculus  seed,  take  it  out  of 
the  bag,  and  if  the  weather  be  damp,  spread  it  thin  upon  a  sheet  of 
paper,  before  a  moderate  fire,  till  it  is  just  warm,  and  no  more  ;  then 
rub  it  out  and  clean  it  perfectly  from  any  pieces  of  the  stalk,  dried 
petals  of  the  flower,  or  other  extraneous  matter,  which  if  sown 
with  it,  would  create  a  mouldiness  of  very  destructive  consequence. 

The  last  ten  days  of  December,  any  time  in  January,  or  even  the 
first  week  of  February,  the  seeds  may  be  sown,  but  when  convenient, 
the  early  sowing  is  preferable.  Each  kind  should  be  sown  separately 
in  shallow  frames  (of  either  one,  two,  or  three  lights,  according  to 
the  quantity)  provided  with  glasses,  similar  to  those  made  use  of 
for  cucumbers  and  melons ;  the  soil  should  be  taken  out  at  least 
two  feet  deep,  and  replaced  with  good  and  suitable  soil,  such  as 
is  directed  in  page  532  ;  out  of  which  the  earth  worms  should  be 
carefully  picked,  for  these  are  extremely  destructive  to  the  young 
plan"  ,  which  they  draw  from  a  considerable  distance  into  their 
holes  for  nutriment. 

When  the  pit  is  filled,  so  as  to  reach  about  six  inches  up  the 
sides  and  ends  of  the  frame,  it  should  be  suffered  to  remain  a  few 
days  to  settle ;  then  the  surface  should  be  made  perfectly  smooth 
and  even,  and  the  seed  sown  upon  it  with  the  utmost  regularity, 
in  such  quantity  as  nearly  to  cover  it,  for  accidents  will  befall  many 
of  them  ;  the  glasses  should  be  placed  on  immediately,  and  the 
frame  kept  closely  covered  with  them,  for  two  or  three  days  till 
the  seeds  begin  to  swell,  observing  to  cover  the  glasses  effectually 
at  night  and  in  severe  weather  to  keep  out  the  frost,  and  also  line 
the  outside  of  the  frame  all  round  to  its  full  height,  with  tan,  leaves, 
or  horse-dung,  for  a  similar  purpose :  a  little  light  earth,  should 
then  be  sifted  over  the  seed,  through  a  fine  sieve,  but  not  sufficient 
to  cover  it,  this  should  be  repeated  once  or  twice  a  week  till  the 
greater  part  of  the  seed  disappears.  It  is  proper  to  remark  in  this 
place,  that  such  seed  as  happen  to  be  covered  deeper  than  the 
thickness  of  a  dollar,  will  never  vegetate,  and  must  of  course  inevi- 
tably perish.  . 

MR.  MILLER,  in  his  Gardener's  Dictionary,  recommends  the 
covering  of  Anemone  and  Ranunculus  seeds,  about  a  quarter  of  an 
inch  deep;  he  is  followed  by  MAW  and  ABERCROMBIE,  as  well  as 
several  other  writers  ;  and  although  these  authorities  are  very 
respectable,  yet  with  me,  it  is  very  questionable,  that  either  of  them, 
ever  raised  an  Anemone  or  Ranunculus  in  their  lives,  from  seec$ 
covered  to  that  depth,  but  more  particularly  the  latter. 


OMITTED  IN  DECEMBER. 

It  is  necessary  to  keep  the  seed  moderately  moist,  by  gentle 
occasional  waterings  with  soft  water,  that  has  been  exposed  to  the 
sun,  or  to  fire  heat,  till  the  cold  chill  is  off;  this  should  be  given 
from  the  rose  of  a  small  watering-pot,  which  rose  should  be  ot  a 
hemispherical  form,  and  perforated  with  very  small  holes,  that  will 
discharge  fine  streams  of  water,  in  a  very  distinct  and  regular 
manner  ;  this  should  be  made  of  copper,  it  being  less  liable  to  cor- 
rode than  iron. 

But  although  it  is  necessary  to  the  vegetation  of  the  seed,  that  it 
be  kept  moderately  moist,  too  great  a  degree  of  moistuie  is  never- 
theless injurious,  especially  till  the  commencement  of  the  spring 
heat,  and  indeed  at  any  period. 

When  the  young  plants  begin  to  appear,  which  if  sown  in  Decem- 
ber or  early  in  January,  will  generally  happen  about  the  latter 
end  of  February,  earlier  or  later  according  to  the  temperature  of  the 
weather,  and  the  care  taken  of  the  frame,  refresh  them  occasionally 
with  gentle  waterings,  and  give  them  air  at  every  favourable  oppor- 
tunity :  but  be  sure  to  keep  the  glasses  close  in  very  cold  weather 
and  well  covered  at  night ;  observing  also,  as  the  sun  gets  power- 
ful to  screen  the  plants  from  its  mid-day  influence,  which,  some- 
times, would  in  one  hour,  destroy  the  whole. 

As  the  spring  advances,  more  and  more  air  must  be  admitted, 
and  on  fine  days  the  plants  totally  exposed,  except  to  a  scorching 
sun,  so  as  to  have  them  by  the  latter  end  of  April,  or  as  soon  as  the 
smart  night  frosts  are  over,  so  hardened,  as  to  bear  the  open  air, 
night  and  day ;  observing  to  keep  them  regularly  watered,  and  to 
give  them  the  advantage  of  fine  warm  showers  of  rain,  when  such 
happen  in  due  time. 

This  kind  of  management  is  to  be  continued  till  the  roots  are 
matured,  always  taking  care  to  protect  the  plants,  by  a  screen  of 
hurdles  or  thin  bass-mats  laid  over  the  frame,  from  the  too  powerful 
influence  of  the  sun,  but  never  keeping  this  covering  over  them, 
longer  than  necessary.  Their  maturity  will  be  known  by  the 
foliage  becoming  brown,  dry,  and  nearly  consumed,  which  generally 
happens,  in  the  middle  states,  towards  the  latter  end  of  June,  or 
early  in  July. 

The  speediest  and  safest  method  of  taking  up  these  small  roots, 
is  to  pare  off  the  earth  three  inches  deep,  having  previously  picked 
off  the  dried  leaves,  and  any  other  extraneous  matter  that  may  be 
found  on  the  bed.  The  earth  and  roots  thus  collected,  are  to  be 
thrown  into  a  fine  wire  sieve,  that  will  not  permit  the  smallest  root 
to  pass  through  it,  which  is  to  be  worked  in  a  large  vessel  or  tub  of 
water  nearly  filled,,  the  earthly  parts  will  dissolve  and  wash  away 
and  the  roots  remain  in  the  sieve,  which  may  be  easily  picked  from 
the  stones,  Sec.  The  upper  rim  of  the  sieve  must,  at  ail  times,  be 
held  above  the  surface  of  the  water,  otherwise,  some  of  the  small 
roots  will  float  over  and  be  lost.  The  roots  are  then  to  be  dried 
and  preserved,  as  directed  for  the  large  roots  in  page  407,  till  the 
latter  end  of  September,  or  early  in  October,  when  they  are  to  be 
planted  and  managed  as  in  pages  532  and  533  ;  observing  that  they 
(being  small)  maybe  planted  somewhat  closer  than  the  large  roots, 
#nd  will  not  require  to  be  covered  quite  so  deep. 


646  OMITTED  IN  DECEMBER. 

The  ensuing  season  several  of  the  largest  roots  will  flower, 
especially  the  Ranunculuses,  and  aii  of  them  the  third  year  ;  at 
which  time,  you  should  carefully  mark  such  as  are  worthy  of  being 
preserved,  the  others  may  be  planted  in  small  clumps  in  the  warm 
borders  of  the  garden  and  pleasure-grounds, , there;  to  take  chance. 
The  valuable  kinds  must  be  subsequently  encreased  by  offsets 

Those  who  desire  to  raise  these  plants  upon  a  small  scale,  may 
sow  the  seeds  in  boxes,  large  pots,  or  garden  pans,  of  good  compost, 
observing,  to  have  the  bottoms  of  the  boxes,  previous  to  their  being 
filled,  bored  with  several  augur  holes,  which  are  to  be  covered  with 
shells,  or  the  like,  to  suffer  any  extra  moisture  to  pass  away  freely. 
But  the  former  method  is  much  more  preferable. 

Sowing  Auricula^  Polyanthus,  and  Cyclamen  seeds. 

The  surest  and  best  method  to  obtain  fine  Auriculas  from  seed, 
is  as  follows.  In  the  first  place  the  seed  should  be  saved  from 
young,  healthy,  strong  plants,  of  capital  high-coloured  sorts,  pos- 
sessing the  first  rate  properties :  these  on  the  approach  of  bloom, 
should  be  detached  from  the  rest,  to  some  distant  part  of  the  garden, 
for  fear  of  the  farina  of  indifferent  sorts  contaminating  them,  and 
there  exposed  to  the  full  air,  the  sun  (except  when  too  violent) 
and  moderate  rains ;  from  an  excess  of  which,  the  plants  are  to  be 
protected  by  mats  laid  on  hoops,  or  by  small  hand  glasses.  In  dry- 
weather  these  plants  must  be  regularly  watered,  as  often  as  they 
appear  to  require  it :  much  depends  on  a  due  attention  to  this 
particular  point. 

The  seed  will  commonly  ripen  in  June;  it  is  advisable  frequently 
to  visit  the  plants  at  that  season,  and  carefully  to  gather  such  pods 
or  heads  of  seed  as  appear  perfectly  dry,  brown,  and  begin  to  open  ; 
if  all  the  pods  on  the  same  stem  are  ripe  together,  they  may  be  cut 
off  with  part  of  the  stem  to  which  they  are  connected  ;  but  if  some 
of  the  pods  are  not  sufficiently  ripe,  such  as-are,  should  be  carefully 
picked  from  the  rest  as  they  become  so.  The  seed,  thus  collected, 
should  remain  in  the  pericarpiums  or  seed  vessels,  in  a  dry  room, 
till  the  season  of  sowing. 

In  the  last  week  of  December^  any  time  in  January,  or  in  the 
early  part  of  February,-  the  seed  may  be  sown  with  every  prospect 
of  success,  provided  you  have  the  necessary  conveniencies.  The 
early  sown  seeds,  if  well  managed,  will  vegetate  better,  and  the 
plants  raise  more  numerously  than  the  late  ;  besides,  it  will  be 
of  serious  importance,  to  give  the  plants  the  advantage  of  a  long 
spring  vegetation,  that  they  may  be  as  strong  as  possible,  before  the 
summer  heat  sets  in,  which  to  seedling  Auriculas  and  Polyanthuses 
is  very  destructive,  and  even  to  the  full  grown  plants:  but  if  there 
is  not  a  suitable  convenience,  and  an  opportunity  of  paying 
the  necessary  attention,  it  will  be  better  to  defer  the  sowing  till 
February. 

A  hot-bed  must  be  prepared,  as  for  early  seedling  cucumbers, 
and  a  good  frame  and  glass-light,  set  thereon,  with  five  or  six 


OMITTED  IN  DECEMBER  547 

inches  of  fine  earth,  laid  all  over  the  bed,  to  kc-ep  down  the  steam. 
Provide  a  box,  or  boxes,  about  five  or  six  inches  deep,  with  several 
holes  on  the  bottom,  fill  it  with  compost,  and  gently  shake  and 
strike  it  against  the  ground,  till  the  earth  settles  a  little  ;  make  the 
surface  perfectly  smooth  and  even,  and  sow  the  see.cl  with  the  utmost 
regularity  ;  then  sift  through  a  fine  wired  sieve,  a  little  compost  or 
willow  mould  upon  it,  sufficient  only,  to  just  cover  the  seed,  and 
place  the  box  in  the  frame  on  the  sut  face  of  the  bed  ;  the  glass 
must  be  set  on  immediately  and  the  bed  so  managed  as  to  pre- 
serve a  moderate  and  equal  degree  of  warmth,  both  day  and  night, 
but  must  be  occasionally  opened,  or  the  light  raised  up  at  the  higher 
end,  to  admit  fresh  air,  and  to  suffer  the  exhalations  from  the  bed  to 
pass  away,  which  is  a  very  essential  point. 

The  earth  must  always  be  kept  moderately  moist,  both  before 
and  after  the  plants  appear,  but  never  wet ;  the  best  method  of 
watering  it,  is  by  means  of  a  hard  clothes-brush,  dipped  into  soft 
water,  which  has  had  its  chill  taken  off,  by  standing  for  some  time 
in  the  sun,  or  in  the  frame;  the  hair  side  being  quickly  turned 
upwards,  and  the  hand  rubbed  briskly  over  it,  will  cause  the  water 
to  fly  off  in  particles  almost  as  fine  as  dew  ;  a  sufficient  watering 
may  in  this  manner  be  given  in  a  few  minutes.  If  it  is  found 
impossible  to  preserve  a  due  heat  in  the  first  bed,  till  the  seed 
has  all  vegetated,  it  will  be  proper  to  prepare  a  second,  into  which  to 
remove  the  box  ;  but  if  there  are  cucumber  frames,  Sec.  at  work 
the  box  may  be  removed  into  any  of  them  that  supports  a  good 
temperate  heat. 

At  the  expiration  of  four  or  five  weeks,  if  well  managed,  the 
young  plants  will  have  all  made  their  appearance;  it  then  becomes 
necessary  to  give  them,  very  gradually,  more  air,  in  order  to  harden 
and  render  them  fit,  in  due  time,  for  an  entire  exposure  to  itl  In 
the  month  of  March  the  plants  if  forward,  should  be  fully  exposed 
to  the  open  air,  for  a  few  hours  in  the  middle  of  mild  days,  when  the 
sun  is  not  too  powerful,  but  particularly  to  light  warm  rains.  As 
to  their  subsequent  treatment  see  the  Flower-Garden  for  jifiril  and 
the  months  following. 

If  you  are  apprehensive  of  the  young  seedlings  being  attacked  by- 
snails,  &c.  which  they  are  very  subject  to,  place  a  hair  band  round 
the  box,  when  you  sow  the  seed,  as  directed  in  page  152. 

Polyanthus  seed  and  seedlings,  are  to  be  treated  exactly  in  the 
same  manner  as  those  of  Auricula. 

Cyclamen  seeds,  of  every  kind,  may  be  sown  in  boxes,  during 
any  of  the  autumn  or  winter  months,  even  to  the  middle  of  February, 
but  when  kept  out  of  ground  much  later,  most  of  them  will  not 
vegetate  till  the  spring  following  ;  they  may  be  treated  generally 
as  directed  in  page  409,  observing  always  to  protect  them  from 
frost.  The  Cyclamen  indicum,  being  a  hot-house  plant;  its  seed 
must  be  treated  accordingly:  this  species  differs  from  the  others,  in 
not  having  the  divisions  of  the  corolla  or  flower  reflexed,  or  turned 
back,  but  hanging  down,  and  in  the  whole  coralla  being  much  larger, 
tiia"1  either  of  the  Persian,  or  European  kinds.  The  former  kinds 


648  OMITTED  IN  DECEMBER. 

will  require  no  bottom  heat,  but  should  be  carefully  protected  by  a 
good  frame  and  glasses,  well  covered  at  night  and  in  severe  weather, 
so  as  to  prevent  the  earth  in  the  inside  from  becoming  frozen,  but 
more  particularly  after  the  plants  appear;  the  latter  kind  must  be 
sown  in  a  box,  which  is  to  be  placed  in  a  good  hot-bed,  as  directed 
for  Anemone  seed,  and  constantly  treated  as  a  Hot-House  plant ; 
or  it  may  be  plunged  in  the  bark-bed  of  any  forcing  department,  and 
and  there  taken  proper  care  of. 


THE    END. 


INDEX. 


IN  addition  to  the  following  index,  you  will  find  in  the  Cata- 
logues, many  generas,  species  and  varieties  of  plants,  not  particularly 
mentioned  in  the  body  of  the  work;  but  from  the  extraordinary 
pains  taken  in  classing  each  kind  according  to  the  nature  of  its 
culture,  you  can  be  at  no  loss  therefor. 

A.  Amorpha  fruticosa,  293 

Acacia,  rose,  293  Andromedas,  268 

Aconite,  winter,  346,  493  Anemone,  general  care  and  treat- 

Agaves,  353,  394,  500,  539  ment   of,   73,    153,   156,    286, 

Alaternus,  329  "337,  385,  557 

Alcoves,  rural,  64  < description  of  a  fine  double, 

Alder,  258,  283  386    ' 

Alexanders,  or  Alesanders,  198, taking  up  the  roots,  407 

317,  513,  549  .  method  of  planting  the  best 

Aletris,  345,  346,  461  sorts,  494,  533,  556 

Alkekengi,  344  •  sowing  seed  of,  643 

Allamancla  cathartica,  449              Angelica,  garden,  198,  402,   512 
Allspice,  Carolina.  See  Calycan-  tree,  293 

thus  floridus  Anise,  199 

Almond,  fruit-bearing,  38,  206,  Annual  flowers,  tender,  154,290, 

243,  433,  457                                      342,  343,  388 
double-flowering  dwarf,  99, hardy,  150,  290,  343,  388, 

156  .        Antirrhinum,   See  Snapdragon 

Aloes,  83,  158,    171,   353,   355,  Antholizas,  159,  420,  499 

394,  500,  539  Anthyllises,  444 

Althaea  Frutex,  or  Hibiscus  sy-  Apocynumandrososmifolium,  440 

riacus,  250,  267,  293  Apple-tree,    17,    128,    206,    208? 

Alyssum,  sweet,  344  325,  515,  553,  568 

Amaranthus  tricolor,   154,  290,  »— .  sowing  kernels  of,  149,251, 

342,344,388,416  527 

tree,  344,416  «••  -       gathering    and   preserving 

spike,  344,  416  the  fruit  of,  5 1 9 

globe,  344,  416  Apricot,  21,  128,  206,433- 

Amaryllis,  scarlet,  71,  350,  S88,  Arbors,  rural,  67 

560  Arbor  Vitasa,  common,  264>  283, 

yellow,  71,  408,  460  329 

Belladonna,  4(08,  420,  450,  — —  Chinese,  52,  265,  283,  329 

562  Arbutus  Unedo,  or  Strawherry- 
sarniensis,  3.90,  408,  420,        tree,  52,  347,353,  539 

45°?  562  Arcades,  rural,  67 

4  o 


INDEX. 

Arethusa  ophioglossoides,  72  B. 

Art  of  improving  different  soils,  Babianas,  159,  499 

304  Balm,  common,  198,512 

Artichokes,  garden, common  care Moldavian,  344 

of,  14,  ,127,  428,  452  of  Gillead,  355 

« spring   dressing  of,    195,  Balsam,  double  striped,  114,172, 

317  290,344,416 

..        making  new  plantations  of,  Banqueting-house,  rural,  64 
195,317  Bark-stove,  84 

* sowing  seed  of,  196,  317      Basil,  sweet,  199,  317,  374 

, •  varieties  of,  196  Bay,  sweet,  54,  347 

.          winter  dressing  of,  549        Beans,  early  Mazagan,  Windsor, 
Artichoke,  Jerusalem,  205,  318         See.  126,   179,  311,  365 

M .  to  preserve  in  winter,  547  -to  top  when  in  blossom,  365 

Ash,  common  kinds  of,  140,  264,  Beans,  kidney,  to  force,  97,  117, 

293,  524  172,  577 

,1.,    .  •  manna,  278  —  in  the  open  ground,  320, 

round-leaved,  278  367,  399,  426,  453 

Asclepias,     hardy     herbaceous  Lima  and  Carolina,    368, 

kinds,  72,  345,417  400,455 

..         curassavica,  449,  461  Bear's-foot,  493 

Asparagus, forcing,  11,  115,550,  Beech-tree,  68,  256,  293,  526 
567  Beet,  red,    125,    187,  200,  214, 

» spring  dressing  of,  184,  314,       314,  371,400 

i  making  new  plantations  of,  •          green  and  white,  187,  371 

185,  314  to  preserve  in  winter,  547 

* sowing  seed  of,  186,  314       Bignonias,  283,  405,  449 

,- method  of  cutting,  184          Belladonna  Lily,  408,420,460, 

, ordinary  care  of,  314,  371,       562 

399,  452  Belvedere,  or  Summer  Cypress, 

. ^winter   dressing    of,    511,       344 

544  Benjamin-tree,  293 

Asters,  hardy  herbaceous  kinds,  Berberries,  38,  226,  518 
72,  151,  291,  344,  417  Blackthorn,  or  Sloe-tree,  259 

, China,  291,  344,  416  Bladder-nut,  140,  293 

Aucuba  japonica,  355,  444,  562,  Bladder-senna.  293 
Auricula?,  common  care  of,  72,  Bladder  Ketmia,  or  Hibiscus  tri- 
151,287,337,387,442,459,       onum,  344 
49 1 ,  527  Blossoms  of  early  wall  fruit-trees, 

>          sowing  seed  of,  152,  287,646     to  protect,  212,  326 

. description  of  a  fine  double,  Board-edgings,  7 1 

338  Borage,  J99,  374 

. compost  suitable  for,  239      Borecole,  or  Scotch  Kale*  184, 

new  potting  of,  339,   387,       308,  363,  397,  422,  45,1,  546 

459  Bowers,  rural,  64,  67 

» slipping   for    propagation,  Box  edgings,  common  care  of, 

339,387,442,459  71,417,442,495,537 

— —  preparation  for  winter  pro-  planting,  294, 348, 495,  538 

tection  of,  558,  573  clip  or  trim,  348,  417,  442, 

Avenues,  63  495,  538 

Azaleas,   or  upright  American  Bridges,  ornamental,  6  lj  65 
Honey-suckles,  268,  293, 


INDEX. 

Broccoli,  Italian  or  Cauliflower,  Campanulas,  in  sorts,  291,  292 

183,  310,  364,  398  nettle-leaved,  345 

. to  preserve  for  winter  use.  Candytuft,  151,  291,  344 

547  Canker  in  trees,  to  prevent  or 

Brawallia,  154,344,  388  cure,  134,  135 

Brussels  sprouts,  309,  364,  397     Canna  indica,  355 
Buckthorn,  sea,  283  Canterbury -bells,  151,  291,  29f, 

Budding   or    Inoculating,    406,       417 

420/430.  433,  457,464,489     Cape  Bulbs,  159,356,  420,  499 

.  methods  of,  434  • compost  for,  499 

Buddleias,  355  Capparis,  or  Capre-shrub,  355 

Bulb-glasses,  76  Capsicums,  200,  319,  372,  402, 

Bulbs,  planting  various  sorts  of,       429 

76,  286,  437,  494,  533,  557,  Caraway,  199,  319,  321 

573  Cardoon,  Spanish,  197,  317,  374, 

taking  up  early  flowering,       401,  428,  454,  471,  548 
386,  387,  408  Carnations,  general  care  and  cul- 

• treatment  of  seedling,  387,       ture  of,  72,  73,  151,  154,  156, 

559}  574  287,  291,  292,  341,  344,  387, 

sowing  seeds  of,  46C,  491,       4K),H37,  459,  491,  527,  5*8, 

535  573 

—  planting  in  glasses  and  pots,  description  of  a  fine  double, 

76,536,559  412 

• observations   on    the    late  to  card,  or  assist  in  blow- 
planting  of,  75                                   ing,  410,  411,  437 
Bupthalmum  fruticosum,  4 1 9        .          laying  and  piping,  413,414 

Burnet,  garden,  198,  374,  512      to  force  into  early  bloom, 

C  99,172,303 

Cabbage,  care  of  autumn  sown  compost  for  best  kinds,  287 

plants,  121,  177,  504,  545,  565  Carrots,  13,  125,  182,  200,  313, 

.. sowing    seed     in     winter,       369,  370,  400,  423 

spring  and  summer,  13,   122,  to  preserve  for  winter  use, 

177,308,363,397.428,451          547 

planting  out   finally,   177,  Cascades,  61 
308,  363,  397,  422,  451  Cassia,  hardy  sorts  of,  72 

. planting  large  cabbages  for  chamzecrista,  344 

seed,  200  marilandica,  345,  461 

. earthing  up,  363  Catalogue    of    Kitchen-garden 

tying  up  the  leaves  to  whi-       esculent  plants  and  herbs,  579 

ten,  363  of  aromatic,  pot,  and  sweet 

sowing  seed  in  autumn  to      herbs,  583 

produce   early   summer  cab- of   plants   cultivated  for 

bages,  471  medicinal  purposes,  583 

preserving  full  grown  heads of  select  fruit-trees,  584 

for  \vinterand  spring  use,  546  of  hardy  deciduous  trees 

Cabinets,  rural,  67  and  shrubs,  588 

Cactuses,    158,    171,  353,    355,  of  hardy   evergreen  trees 

394,  500,  539  and  shrubs,  596 

Calceolarias,  345  ..         of  hardy  bulbous  and  tube- 

Callicarpa  americana,  355  rous-rooted    flowering-plants, 

Calycanthus  floridus,  269,  293  59$ 

Camellia  japonica,  355,  444 


INDEX. 

_>  of   hardy    perennial    and    best  method  of  procuring 

biennial  fibrous-rooted  flower-      good     Cauliflowers     in     the 

ing-plants,  600  southern  states,  506 
—— of  hardy  annual-flowers,  607  Caves,  rural,  64 
of  tender  annual   flowers,  Cedar,  red,  140,257,329 

609  of  Lebanon,  52,  265,  329 

.          of  hardy  aquatic  herbacious  white,  264,  329 

perennial  plants,  611  Celandine,  198 

.        of  Green-House  trees  and  Celeriac,  of  turnep-rooted  celery, 

shrubs,  611  183,547 
of  Green-House  succulent  Celery,  122.  183,  313,  370,  398, 

and  herbacious  perennial  and       423,  452s  471 

biennial  plants,  624  to  raise  early,  in  the  open 

of    Green-House    bulbous       ground,  314 

and  tuberous-rooted  plants,  624 to  preserve,  for  winter  use, 

...        of  Hot-House  trees,  shrubs,      548 

and  succulent  plants.  627  Celsius,  355 

-. of   Hot-House  herbaceous  Centaureas,  355 

perennial  plants,  &c.  637  Chamomile,    double,    151,   198, 
of  Hot-House  bulbous  and       292,  461,  512 

tuberous  rooted  plants,  638        Chelone  glabra,  345,  461 
of  grasses  and  other  plants  Cherry-tree,  19,  128,  206,     208, 

used  in  farming,  639  515,  553 

Catalpa-tree,  262,  293  double  flowering,  99,  156, 

Catchfly,  perennial,  151,  292  293 

Lobel's,  291,  344  Chervil,  191,  317,  374,  471 

double,  493  Chesnut,  Spanish,  or  sweet,  38/ 

Caterpillars   on  fruit    trees,    to       226,  263,  293,  525 

destroy,  379  Chirdhias,  72 

Caterpillar-plant,  29 1,  344  Chrysanthemum,  416" 

Cauliflowers,    care    of    autumn  Chrysocoma,  355 

sown    plants,    12     119    176,    Christmas-rose,  493 

506,  545,  565  Chives,  190,  315,  5H 

.        sowing  seed  of,  in  winter  Cineraria  lanata,  444 

and  spring,    and    subsequent  Cinerias,  355 
treatment  of  the  plants,  12,  119,  Cistuses,  52,  355 

120,176,307  Citron-tree,  4 64 

-. early   planting    of,    under  Clary,  199 

bell  or  hand-glasses,  176  Cleome,  344 

—  time  and  method  of  planting  Ciethra,  293 

the  principal  crop,  306  Clinopodium,  345 
sowing  seed  for   late   or   Clumps  of  trees  and  shrubs,  62 

winter  flowering,  307,   362       Cock's-combs,  290,  344,  416 
^ defending  the  flowers  from  Codlins,  518 

sun  and  wet,  362,  397  Colchicum,  71,  387,  408,  460 

planting  late,  362,  397,  423  Collecting  seeds,  428 

the  proper  time  in  autumn  plants,  72,  461 

to  sow,  473  Columbine,  151,  291,  292 

~* winter  preservation  of  full  Colutea,  355 

grown  plants,  547  Composition,  Forsyth's,  217 


INDEX. 

Barnes's,  218  Currants,  pruning,  24,  1 30,  2 14, 

Compost,    for   Carnations    and        517 

Pinks,  287  -planting,  30,  214,  552 

— — *  for  Auriculas  and  Polyan-  propagating,  54,  142,  284, 

thuses,  339  $52 

for  Cyclamens,  409  sowing  seed  of,  552 

for  Pine- Apples,  446  Cuttings,  to  propagate  trees  and 

for  Tulips,  528  shrubs  by,  54,  142,  282,  329, 

for  Hyacinths,  530  490,  524,  537 

for  Ranunculuses  and  Ane-  Cyanella,  159  499 

mones,  532,  533  Cyanus,  291,  344,  461 
•  for  the  generality  of  Green  Cycas  revoluta,  500,  539 

and  Hot-House  plants,  502         Cyclamen,  355,  409,  420 

Comptonia  asplenifolia,  293 propagating  by  seed,  409,  647 

Conservatory,  82  indicum,  409,  647 

Convolvuluses,  291,  344  Cypress,  deciduous,  264 

Coreopsis,  72,  345,  346,  417         evergreen,  52,  347,  539 

Coriander,  191,  317,374  Cypripediums,  72,  346,  461 

Cork-tree,  270  D 

Corn,  Indian,  362  Daffodils,  534 

Cornsalad,  453,  471,  544  Daisies,  double,    99,    156,  289, 

Coronilla,  353,  355,  419  346,  535,  558,  573 

Corosive  solution,  134  Dapline  odora,  539,  562 

Cottages,  rural,  64  Dens   Canis,    or    Erythronium 

Cotyledons,  539  Dens  Canis,  386,  437,  494,  534 

Crab  and  Apple-tree  hedges,  556  Dictamnus,  or  Fraxinella,  346 
Crassulas,  350  Diervilla,  283,  293 

Crocuses,  spring,  71,   156,  386,  Dill,  199,  317,  513,549 

408,  460,  494,  534  Dodecatheon  Meadia,  346,  461 

autumnal,  387,  408,  460       Dog's-bane,  tustan-leaved,  440 

Crown  Imperials,  71,  386,  408,  Dogwood,  293 

437,  460,  494,  534  Dolichos,  purple,  344,  355 

sowing  seed  of,  460  white,  344.  355 

Cucubalus  steliatus,  345,  461         Dracocephalums,  72,   151,  345, 
Cucumbers,  in    hot-beds,    3,6,       346,417,461,493 

110,  114,  173,175,  3D5,  358     Draining  of  land,  39,  101 

seedling  beds  for,  4  Drawing-frame,    for    flowering 

stopping  or  topping,  1 13  plants,  343 

impregnating  the   female  Dry  Stove,  95 

flowers  of,  174  E 
in  the  Hot-House,  98,  172,  Early  crops,  prepare  for,  1 

577  Edging-iron,  70 

under  bell  or  hand-glasses,  Edgings,   methods  and   time   of 

175                                                        planting,  294,  348,  538 
in  the  open  ground,   320, of  boards.  7 1 

360,  42 1  Egg-plant,  or  Solanum,  Melonge- 

for  late  pickling,  422,  454         na,  319,  373,401,  429 

serpent,  344  particular  account  of,  319 

squirting,  344  Elder,  258,  283 

Curculio,  to  prevent  the  ravages  Elm-tree,  63,  256,  293,  524 
of,  136  Elecampane,  513 

4  p 


INDEX. 

Endive,  320,  37%  401,  422,453,       October,  527.  November,  556. 

570,510  December,  572 
to  preserve  for  use  in  win-  Flowering-shiubs,  to  train,  49 

ter,  548  Forcing-frames,    for     f.uit-trees, 

Engine,    garden,    for  watering,       Sec.  the  construction  and  various 

325,  326  kinds   of,   with  the  methods  of 

Ericas,  or  Heaths,  99,  353,  444        working  them-  28  to  36 

Erodiums,  444  , for  flowers,  29,  156 

Erythronium  americanum,  461,    Forcing  early  fruit-trees,  27,  35, 

534                                                         132,216,303,327,569 
— —  Dens  Canis,  386,  437,  494,  , flowers,  in  the  Hot-House, 

534                                                         8cc-  76,  99,  156,  303,  573,  577 
Espalier  fruit  trees,  advantage  of flowers,  in  hot-beds,  76,  156, 

and  method  of  forming,  16  573 
to  train  in  the  Nursery  while  Forest-trees,  and  ornamental  har- 

young,  48,  206,  208  dy  shrubs,  sowing  seeds  of,  149, 

Euonymus,  or  Spindle-tree,  293         283,  329 

Eupatoriums,  461  training  when  young,  49 

Euphorbias,  171,  353,  355,  394,  . planting,  53,  283,  293,  329., 

461  347,  526, 537,  555,  560 

Evergreen     trees    and    shrubs,  Foss,  65 

planting,  294,  329,347.490.  Fothergilla  alnifolia,  293 

496,  526  Fountains,  rural,  64 

—  to  trim  in  summer,  406,490  1-owls,  barn-door,  their  use  in  Or- 

F.  chanls,  134,  137 

Fair  Maids  of  France,  493  Foxglove,  151,  291,  292 

Fennel,  common,  198,  512  Framing,  introduction  to,  3 

sweet,  199  Framing-ground,  5 

. Azorian,  199,  317,  454  Franklinia,  269 

Fenugreek,  465  Jr'raxinella,  346 

Ferraria  Tigridia  French  Honeysuckle,  151 

undulata,  8cc.  355  < •  Marigold,  416 

Feverfew,  151,  198,  292  Fringe-tree,  268,  293 

Fig-trees,  plan  ting  and  propagat-  Fntillaries,    71,    386,   408,   437, 

ing,  209,  518    ~  460,494,  534 

i.         pruning,  208  sowing  seed  of,  460,  491 

—  the   different   varieties  of,  Fruit,  thinning  of,  376 

2 1 1  to  preserve  for  winter  keep- 

• care  of,  456,  553  ing,  519 

Filbert-tree,  38,  226.  243,  5 IS      .          preserving  the  stones  of,  to 

— —  to  graft,  242-  243  plant,  458,  519 

Finochio,  199,317,454  preserving   the  kernels  of, 

Fir-trees.  See  Pines  and  Firs  519 

Flos  Adonis,  151,  291,  344  —planting  or  sowing  the  stones 

Flower-de-luce.     See  Iris  of,  144,  251,  490,  526 

Flower-Garden,  to  layout,  71       sowing  the  kernels  of  149, 

• work  to  be  done  in,  for  Ja-       25 1,  256,  527 

nuary,     55.     February,    150.  Fruit-trees,  newly   grafted,   care 
March,  285.  April,  332.  May,       ofv  330,  382,  406,  430,  458 
382.     June,  4<>7.     July,  437.  -  —  grafted  or  budded,  the  pre- 
August,  459.  September,  491.       ceding  year,  care  of,  250,  251, 


1 


INDEX. 

.330,  382  • stocks  adapted  for,  242 

,    .      budded  in  the  present  sea-  when  to  take  oft'  the  cions 

son,  care  of,  458,  489  for,  241 

n        luxuriant    and    unfruitful,  •          choice  of  cions  or   grafts, 

how  to  bring  to  a  bearing  state,      243 

135  •          cions  not  to  be  taken  from 

.          to  correct  roughness  in,  and      sickly  trees,  40 

renew  the  bark  of,  52 1  tools  used  in,  244 

Fuchsia  coccinea,  160,  3i'3,  355,  • day,  how  to  prepare,  244 

419,  539  the  various  methods  of,  245 

Fumigating  the  Hot.House,  &c.       to  250 

167,  500  various  kinds  of  trees  and 

G  shrubs,  250,  282,  329,  331 

Galega  virginiana,  345,  346,  461  by  approach,  or  inarching, 

Galleries,  of  hedge-work,  67  249,  332,  354 

Gardenias,  355    *  forest -trees  and  ornamental 

Garlick,  190,  315,  514,  545  shrubs,  283 

Geissorhiza  obtusata,   159,499     hollies,  331 

Genistas,  355  Grapes,  the  methods  of  preserv- 

Gentianas,  346,  461  ing  them  fresh,  488,  489 

Gentianella,  151,  292,  461  of  curing  them  for  raisins, 

Geraniums,  83,   160,  355,  419,       488 

444                  .                              Grape-vines.     See  Vines 
Gerardias,  72,  34.5^346^61          Grass-walks  and    lawns,   general 
Gladioluses,  hardy,  76,  534               disposition  and  care  of,  57  to  70 
tender,  159,  420,  499  methods  of  making  or  lay- 
Glass,  most  preferable  for  hot-       ing  down,  296 

bed  lights,  3  Grass-slopes,  68 

for  hot-house  roof-lights,  89  Gravel-walks,  general  disposition 

Glass-case,  for  flowering  plants,       of,  57  to  70 

343  method  of  making,  350 

Glycines,  461  Green-House,    to  erect  or   con- 

Gnaphaliums,  461  struct,  78 

Goat's-rue,  345  «          work  to  be  done  in  for  Ja- 

Golden-rod,  151,  292  nuary,     83.      February,     158. 

Gooseberry-trees,  pruning  of,  24,      March,  297.  April,  352.  May, 
130,214,517,552  391.  June,  418.  July,  443    Au- 

, planting  130,  214.516,  552       gust,   464.      September,    498 

. propagating   by   cuttings,       October,  538.    November,  562. 

284,517,552  December,  575 

. propagating  by  seed,  517,  Green-House  plants,  shifting, 299, 

552  353,  391,  444,  464 

soil  most  suitable  for,  285     sowing  seeds  of,   159,  300, 

Gordonias,  269  355 

Gourds,  361  heading  down, 298,  299,354, 

Grafting,  the  proper  time   for,       392 

24 1  propagating  by  cuttings,  &e. 

• preliminary  instructions  for,      16o,  Sol,  335,  419,  443    ' 

2.4 1  to  245  when  to  bring  out,  392 

when  to  take  in,  498,  539 


INDEX. 

I,  .    -•  to  winter  in  garden-frames, livklus,  493 

540  . ranunculinus,  493 

Cromwell,  198  Helianthuses,  461 

Grottoes,  rural,  58,  64  Heliolropium  peruvianum,    355 

Groves,  63  419 

Guernsey  Lily,   390,   408,  420,  Hemerocallis,  346 

460,  562  Hepatica,  151,  292 

Guilandinia  dioica,  293  Herbs,  gathering,  199,  429,  454 

Gum,  in  fruit-trees,  to  remedy,  Hermannias,  444 

431  Hermitages,  64 

H  Heuchera,  345,  461 

Ha-ha,  what,  65  Hibiscuses,    herbaceous   peren- 

Hawk-weed,  purple  and  yellow,       nial,  345,  346,  417,  461 

151,  344  Hibiscus  Rosa  sinensis,  449 

Haws,  how  to  prepare  for  sow-  Hogs,  their   use   in   Orchards, 

ing,  144  134,  137,  133,  431 

Haw-thorn,  the  various  species  Holly,  140,  257,  329,  524 

of,  best  adapted  for  hedges,  147 -to  graft  curious  kinds  of, 

.  quicks  or  plants,  how  to       331 

raise,  144,  252  Hollyhock,  common,  151,291 

time   of    sowing    in    the  China,  291,  344,  416 

southern  States,  524  Honesty,  or  Satin-flower,  291 

hedges.     See  hedges  Honeysuckles,  99,  142,  156,  283,, 

Heading  down,  declining  fruit-       293,  At  ft  £  , 

trees,  220  French,  151,291,  292 

— —  budded  stocks,  251  Honey  wort,  291,  344 

Heart's-ease,  344  Horehound,  198,  512 

Heaths,    African,   &c.  99,   353,  Hornbeam,  68,  256,  293,  524 

444  Horn-plant,  291,  344 

Hedges,  live,  the  necessity  and  Horse-Chesnut,  263 

utility  of,  252  Horse-Radish,  201,  317,  514 

how  to  make,  253,  254         Horse-shoe  plant,  291,  344 

plants  suitable  for,  147,  256,  Hot-beds,  method  of  making,  4,  5 

to  259  for    seedling    cucumbers, 

— time  of  planting  and  mak-       Sec.  4,  5 

ing,  252,  538,  561  for   sowing   curious   tree 

.          observations  on,  259  and  shrub  seeds  in,   150 

— - -  how  to  plash,  260,  561         for   raising    Green-House 

i—  time  of  clipping,  255    424,       plants,  159, 

495,538  made  of  leaves,  or   leaves, 

particular  instructions  for       and  dung,  543,  544 

clipping,  495  Hot-bed  frames  and  lights,  con- 

Hedt';e-hog  plant,  291,  344  struction  of,  2 

Hedysarum   gyrans,  or  moving  riclgc-s,  to  make,  305 

plant,  450  Hot-House   or    Stove,    geueral 
Hedysarums,  hardy^  345,  346,       instructions  respecting  the  con- 

46  I  struction  of,  84,  to  96 

Ilelieborus  hy  emails,  493  work  to   be  done    in    for 

niger,  493  January,    96,    February,    160,, 

virides,  493  March  Sol,  April,  356,  May, 

fcetidus,  493  394,    June,    420,    July,    445, 


INDEX. 

August,  466,  September,  500, time  of,  8tc.  406,  420,  430 

October,  541,  November,  563,      433,  457,  464,   489 

December,  576  Jonquils,  71,  76,  286,  534 

Hot-House  plants,  to  propagate,  Ipomcea  Quamoclit,  72,  154,290, 

303,  358,  394,421  388 

—  sowing  seeds  of,  303,  358  scarlet,  344 

to  bring  out,  395  Iris,  Spanish    and  English  bul- 

to  take  in,  500  bous,  71,  437,  460,  494,  534, 

*—  to  winter  in  Garden-frames  —  dwarf  Persian,   156,    4373 

542                                                        460,  494,  534 
Hot- walls,  the  construction  and  sowing  seeds  of,  460 

use  of,  36  flag-leaved,  in  sorts,   292, 

Hyacinths,  planting  and  care  of,       460,  461,  493 

71,  72,    153,   156,   285,  332,  snake's-head,  534 

382,  407,  557  Judas-tree,  268,  293 
properties  of  fine  double,  Juniper,  140,  156,257,  283,  32.9 

333  Justicias,  353,  355 
best  method  and   time  of  Ixias,  bulbous,  159,420,499 

planting,  530,  556  Chinese,  345,  417 

< sowing  seed  of,  460, 49 1  K 

musk,  534  Kale,  sea,  191,  316,  513,549 

feathered,  534 Jerusalem,  309,  397 

starry,  534  Scotch.    See  Borecole 

• — —  grape,  534  Kalmias,  268,  329 

Hydrangea  hortensis,  160,  303,  Kernels   of  fruit-trees,  to  sow, 

355,392,419,539,561,  562  149,  251,  256,  527 

Hypoxis,  461  Kidney-beans.     See  Beans 

Hyssop,  198,  402,  454,  512  Kidney-bean  tree,  Carolina,  285 

I  Kitchen-Garden,  plans  or  designs 

Jacobea  Lily.     See  Amaryllis,        for,  100 

scarlet  situation,  soil,   water,  ex- 

Jasmines,   156,  283,    353,    355,       tent,  &c.  101 

405,  4 1 9  .  fences  suitable  for,  103 

to  bud,  436  preparing  and   laying  out 

Ice-plant,  154,  290,  388  the  ground,  103 

Jerusalem  Kale,  309,  397  general  culture  and  manu* 

Artichoke,  205,  348,  547          ring  of,  106,  107 

Impregnating  the  female  flowers  —  work   to  be   done   in    for 

of  early  cucumbers  and  me-       January,    1,    February,    109, 

Ions,  174  March,  173,  April,  304,  May, 

Inarching,  249,  332,  354,    392,       359,    June,    396,    July,    421, 

465  August,  45 1,  September,  468, 

Indigo,  355  October,  503,  November,  544, 

Insects,  which  infest    the  Hot-       December,  565 

House,    descriptions    of   and  L 

methods  of  destroying,    1 60,  Label-sticks,  to  make,  49,  5 1 

to  168  Labelling  the  plants,  468 
on  fruit-trees,  to  destroy,  Laburnum,  267 

325,  378,  379,  388  Labyrinths,  67 

Inoculating    or    Budding,    me-  Lachenalias,  159,499 

thocls  of,  434  Lagerstrcemia  indica,  355, 

4  Q 


INDEX. 

540,  565  — —  japonicuin,  534 

Lantanas,  449  Martagon,  534 

Lapeyrousias,  159,  499  Lily,  white  460,  494  534 

Larch-tree,  265  red,  460,  494 

Large   trees,    how   to    remove,  of  the  Valley,  292 

225,  561  Lime  or  Linden-tree,   264,  280 

Larkspur,  annual,  151,  344  293,  524 

Bee,  291,  292  Lime-tree,    fruit-bearing,    464, 

Lavatera,  151,  291,  344  539 

Lavender,   common,    198,    454,  Limodorum  tuberosum,  72,  461, 

512  534 

Lavendulas,  tender,  444  Liquorice-root,  its  general  cul- 

Laurel,  Portugal,    52,    54,  283       ture,  201,  318 

347,  355,  539  Lobelias,  72,  151,  292,  345,461 

— —  English  or  Levant,  52,  54,  Locust-tree,  common,  263 

283,  347,  355,  539,  561,  562     ^ honey,    or    three-thorned 

LauiTistinus,  or  Viburnum  Tinus,      Acacia,  256,  293 

347,  353,  355,  392,  539,  502     London-pride,  151,  292,  493 
Lawns.     See  Grass-Lawns  Lovage,  198,  402,  512 

Layers,  the  several  methods  of  Love-apple.     See  Tomatoes 

making,  279  Love-lies-bleeding,  344 

.         when  to   make,  take    off,  Lungwort,  Virginian,  493 
plant,   &c.  53,   143,  329,  381,  Lupins,  344 
490,  523,  537  Lyciums,  355 

Leatherwood,  293  Lychnadea.     See  Phlox 

Leaves,  preparation  of,  to  make  Lychnis,  dwarf,  151,  291,  344 

hot-beds,  &c.  543 scarlet,  151,291,  292,  461, 

Leeks,  to  sow,  189,  314  493 

.. to  transplant,  399,  429          double  scarlet,  77,  389,  416, 

Lemon-trees,  to  shift,  299,  353,       493 

444,  464  Lysimachias,  461 

, ordinary  care  of,    158  298,  M 

353,  355,  392,  442  539  Madder,  Dyer's,  its  general  cul- 

— —  to    prune  or   head   down,       ture,  32 1 

298,  354  Magnolias,  methods  of  propagat- 

, to  inoculate,  420,  464  ing,  268 

.  to  inarch,  392  planting,  293 

Lettuces   10,  124,  125,  180,  311,  Magnolia  grandiflora,  52,  563 
366,  399,  427,  453,  470,  503,  Mallow,  marsh,  198,  512 

544,  566  oriental,  151,  344 

Liatrises,345,  461  Peruvian,  344 

Lilac,  common  purple  and  white,  T- —  curled,  291,  344,  345 
142,  293  Mangel  Wurtzel,  187 

Persian,  142,  293  Manna,  officinal,  to  procure  27S 

Lilies,  sowing  seeds  of,  460  Maples,  of  various  kinds,  262, 

Lilium  superbum,  461,  494,534,       280,  293,  524,  526 

. canaclense,  461,  494,  534       Marigold,  pot,  199,  374 

Catesbai,  534  Cape,  344 

chalcedonicum,  460,    494,  French,  416 

534 African,  416 

, pompomum,  534 


INDEX. 

Marjoram,   pot,   198,  317,  374, in  the  open  ground,   198, 

4!;2.  512                                                512 
= sweet,  or  knotted,  199,  317,  -, pepper,  198,  512 

374  cat  or  Nep.  198,  512 

Martagons,  437,  460,  494  Monardas,  72,  345,  346,  461 

.        what    lilies  are    properly  Monk's-hood,  151,292,417 

called,  534  Moreas,  159,  420,  499 

Marty nia,  annua  or  probosidea,  Moss,  cleansing  trees  from,  39, 

344  133, 569,  570 

Marvel  of  Peru,  344  Moving-plant,  450 

Massonias,  159,499  Mulberry -trees,  propagation  of, 

Mastich,  454  &c.   38,  257,  272,  280,  283, 

Medecatt'd  tar,  how  to  prepare,       5 1 8 

39  — —  paper,  the  method  of  ma- 

.« application  and  use  of,  39,       nufacturing   paper    from  the 

40,  134,  135  bark  of,  276 

Medlars,  226,  243  Mushrooms,   care  of,    14,    11 7, 

. snowy,  267,  293  549,  567 

Melanthiums,  Cape,  159,  499        -descriptions   of  the   culti- 

—  American,  461  vated  kind,  474 

Melasphaerulas,  159,  499  preparations  for    making 

Melias,  355                                             new  beds,  474 
Melianthuses,  355                           -          to  collect  the  spawn  of,  475 
Melons,  preparations  for  raising  making  and  spawning  the 

in  hot-beds,  3,  1 10  beds,  507 
true  Cantaleupe  kinds  de-  Myrtles,  83,  158,  160,  298,  353, 

scribed,  4                                            354,  355,  392,  419,  539 
• age    and    preparation    of to   prune   or   head   down, 

seed,  4  298, 354 

..         sowing  the  seed  and  gene-  N 

ral  care  of,  6, "110,   114,   17  f  Napxa,  346,  461 

305,  359  Narcissus,  common  kinds,  156, 
stopping  or   topping   the       534 

plants,  113  —  polyanthus,  71,286,  533 

.  impregnating  the   female  autumnal,  460 

flowers  of,  174  — —  sowing  seed  of,  460 

.          raising  in  hot-bed  ridges,  Nasturtium,    or   Indian    Cress, 

305  318,  373 
sowing  and  care  of  in  the  Nectarine-trees,    pruning,     21, 

open  ground,   320,  360,  396,        128,206 

42 1 ,  454  • budding,  433,  457,  489 

.          sowing  for  Mangoes,  422     Nettle-tree,  261,  293 

water,'  320,  361,  396  Nettle,  Roman,  344 

Mesembryanthemums,  154,  158,  New  Jersey  Tea,  293 

171,  353,  355,  388,  394,  539     Newly  grafted  trees,  care  of,  330, 
Mezereon,  149,  524  382,  406,  430,  458 

Mignonette,  155,  172,  291,  344   budded  trees, care  of,  458, 

Mimosas,  355.    See  also,  Sensi-       489 

tive  plant  Nigella,  151,  291,  344 

Mint,  spear,  forcing,  11,511         Nolana  prostrate,  344 


INDEX. 

Nursery,  the  importance  and  ad-  —  preparation  of  the  ground, 

vantage  of,  42  222 

extent,  soil  and  situation, —manure  suitable  for,  31, 134 

43  choice  of  young  trees   223 

i .        fencing,  laying  out  and  pre-  times  of  planting,  222,327, 

paring  the  ground,  44                      515,  521,  553 
i  .        method  of  arranging   the  method  of  planting,   223^ 

plants,  46                                            553 
general   care  and  culture  observations  on  neglecting, 

of,  48                                                 38,  133 
—  work  to  be  done  in  for  Ja-  when  to  prune  and  dress, 

nuary,    51.      February,     142.       38,  133,  216,  515,  521,   553, 

March,  241.  April,  329.  May,       570 

380.     June,  404.     July,  433.  particular  methods  of  prun- 

August,  457.  September,  489.       ing,  38,  39,  40 

October,  523.  November,  555.  when  to  prune  or  head  down 

December,  571  unhealthy  trees,  40,  216 

O  -          how  to  prune  or  head  down 

Oak -leaves,  used  for  making  hot-      unhealthy   or  old  trees,  218, 

beds,  543                                            220 
Oaks,  propagation  of,  263,  293,  to  prevent  the  ravages  of 

524  insects,  136 

— evergreen,  329  how  and  when  to  remove 

Obelisks,  rural,  64,  68  large  trees,  225,  561 

Oenotheras,  349  to  refresh  the  bark  of  fruit- 

Oiled-paper  frames,  120  trees,  521 

Okra,  318,  373,  401  to  bring  luxuriant  and  un- 

Olea,  or  Olive,  355  fruitful  trees  into  a   bearing 

Oleander,  353,  355  state,  135 

Onions,  sowing  seed  of,  187,314  -^ — root-pruning  of  usetofruit- 

the  several  varieties  of,  188    itrees,  134 

. planting  and  care  of,   189,  to  supply  the  places  of  de- 

315,  371,400  cayed  trees,  225 

, -  tree,  189  Orchises,  72,  461,  534 

welsh,  474,  5*50  Ornamental  planting,  and  rural 

planting  large  roots  of,  for      designs,  55,  to  72 

producing  seed,  642  Ornithogalums,  tender,  420 

Ononis  natrix,  444  hardy,  76,  286,  437,  5  34 

Ophryses,  72,  461  Oxalis  versicolor,  159,  499 

Orach,  garden,  32 1  violacea,  461 

Orange-trees,  general  care  and  P 

culture  of,  158,  298,  300,  353,  Pxonia,  or  Peony,  346,  460,493, 

355,  392,  442,  539  534 

pruning  of,  298,  354  Palma  Christi,  344 

-  to  shift,  299,  353,  444,  464  Pancratium  maritimum,  534 

. to  inoculate,  420,  464  Papaw-tree,  262,  293 

to  inarch,  392  Paper-Mulberry -tree,  276 

Orchards,  the  utility  of,  38  Paper,  method  of  making  it  from 
extent,  aspect,  situation  and      the  bark  of  the  Paper-Mulber- 

soi),  22 1  ry-tree,  276 


INDEX. 

Paper.frames,  method  of  mak-  Phlomises,  444 

ing,  120  Phloxes,    151,    345,    346,    416, 

Parsley,  common,  127,  191,  316,     461.  493 

374  Pine- Apples,    general  care   and 

. Hamburg  or  large  rooted,     culture  of,  96,  168,  301,  356, 

191     316,  372,  401    ~  394,421,445,466,501,541, 

Parsnep,  125,  182,200,313,370,     564,576 

4*0,547  —  various  sorts  of,  445 

Parterre,  66  compost  for,  446 

Passion-flower,  283,  355,  405       propagation    of,  by  crowns 

Patience  Dock,  550  and  suckers,  446,  447 

Pavilions,  rural,  67  *  propagation  of,  by  seed,  467 

Peach-trees,  pruning  and  training  Pines  and   Firs,  how  to  distin- 

of,  21,  128,  206  guish  between,  265 

.     •  >  budding    or    inoculating,    • — —  the  various  kinds  of,  265, 

433,  457,  489  266,  597 

double  flowering,  156,  293  •  propagation   of  by   seeds, 

Pear-trees,  pruning  and  training       265,  266,  267, 329 

of,   17,  206,  208,  325,  515,    —  observations  on  transplant- 

553,  568  planting  seedlings  of  in  June, 

—  grafting,  241,  242  405 

budding,  433,457,  489         time  of  trimming  or  pruning, 

•          gathering   and  preserving       490 

the  fruit  of,  519  Pinks,  general  care  of,  &c.     See 

•  sowing  the  kernels  of,  for     the    Flower-Garden   for    the 

stocks,  149,  251,  527  several  months 

Pea-sticks,  to  provide  and  dress,  1 properties  of  fine  double, 

Peas,  garden,  raising  in  hot-beds,      410 

126                                                —  method  of  piping,  414 
.     •    raising  in  the  open  ground, best  time  'for  and  manner 

126,  178,  179,  310,  365,  398,       of  planting,  288,  528 

429,452  China,  291,  344,  416 

sticking,  best  method   of,  Plane-tree, 2 61,  283.  293 

179  Planting,  fruit-trees,  of  various 

Tangier,  151,291,  344  kinds,  213,223,  325,327,515, 

'winged,  291,  344  521,551,  553 

Pelargoniums.    See  Geraniums,  Fig-trees,  209 

Penny-royal,  198,  5  12  stocks  to  bud  and  graft  on, 

Penstemons,  461  251,525,555 

Peppers,    red.      See   Red  Pep-  Gooseberries  and  Currants, 

pers  214,  516,  552 

Perennial  and  biennial  flowers,  Raspberries,  214,  327,  517 

sowing    seeds    of,   291,    345,       552 

389  all  kinds  of  hardy  deciduous 

planting  or   transplanting,       trees  and  shrubs,  283,293,  329, 

292,  346,  390,  442,  460,  535,       347,  526,  537,  555,  560 
558  _  hardy  evergreen-trees  and 

Periploca  graca,  283  shrubs,    294,    329,    347,    490, 

Persicaria,  291,  344  496,  526 

Persimmon,  262,  345,  316,  461    large  grown  trees,  *225,  561 

Phillyrea,  329  — —  seedlings,  of    hardy  deci- 

'  4  R 


INDEX. 

duous  trees  and  shrubs,  283         and  pear  trees,   17,  128,  206> 

.. sejedlings,    of  hardy  ever-       325,  515.553,568 

greens,  329  .          plum  and  cherry  trees,  19, 

•  general    observations    on,       128,206,515,553 

2S1  peach, nectarine  and  apricot 

Pleasure-grounds,  the  laying  out       trees,  21,  128,  206 

of,  55  to  72  —  gooseberry     and     currant 

Plum-trees,  pruning  and  training      trees,  24,  130,  214,  517 

of   19,206,  208  raspberries,  131,214,518 

•         grafting,  242  - fig-trees,  208 

, budding,  433,  457  — -  Orchard  or  standard  trees, 

Pi  .meria  rubra,  449  38,  39,  40,  133,216,521,553 

Podalyrias,  72,  345,346,  461  young     fruit-trees     under 

Poles,  for  Grape-vines,  41  training,  48,  206   2^8 

for  Lima  Beans,  2  .       fruit-trees  intended   to  be 

Polyanthus,  72,   151.289,  291,       forced,    the  ensuing    season, 
341,  387,  442,  459,  461,  527,       476 
558,  573  i          summer  pruning  and  dres- 

* description  of  a  fine,  34 1  sing,  430 

>         to  propagate  by  seed,  152,  Nursery   young  trees,   48, 

287,  646  143 

to  propagate  by  slips,  341,  hardy    flowering    shrubs, 

387,4*2,459  143,157,537,561- 

Polyanthus-Narcissus,    71,  286,  young  forest-trees,  49,  143 

33  and  restoring  old  ordeclin- 

sanguinea,  344       ,  ing  fruit  and  other  trees  218, 

cteolata,  444  220 

, senega,  461  Pumpkins,  361    396 

Pomegranate,  392,  540,  562          Pyracantha,  258,  329 
Poplars,  257,  283,  293  Pyramids,  rural,  68 

Poppy,  151,  291  Q 

Porticoes,  of  hedge  work,  67         Queen's  Gilliflower,  389 
Pot,  sweet,  and  physical  herbs,  Quicks,  thorn,  for  hedges,   144, 
198,317,374,402  253 

Potatoes,  common,  200  3 1 8          • other  sorts  of,  for  the  same 

. sweet,  361,  397  purpose,  256,  to  259 

Poultry,  their  use  in  Orchards,  Quince-tree,  38,  149,206 

134,  137  R 

Primroses,   151,  461  Racer  or  turf-cutter,  296 

double,  289,  527,  558,  573  Radishes,  14,  123,  181,  312,368, 

Primrose-tree,  151,  291  292  369,  400,  428,  451,  470 

Prince's-feather,  344  Ragged-robin,  double,  292,  461 

Privet,  common,  258,  283  Raisins,  methods  of  curing,  488 

«—-  evergreen,  329  Ranunculus,     Persian,    general 

Proteas,  355,  444  care  of,  &c.  71,  73,  153,  156, 

Protecting  roots  of  new  planted       286,  336,  384,  494,  556 

trees  and  shrubs,  26,  568,  571,  properties  of  a  fine  double., 

574    .  385 

. seedlings  and  tender  plants,  —  taking  up  the  roots  of,  407 

555  best   method   of  planting. 

Pruning  espalier  and  wall,  apple       532 


INDEX. 

i          preserving  from  frost,  557  S 

. sowing  seed  of,  643  Saffron,  bastard,  344 

aconitifolius,  double,   346    officinal  or  true.     See  Cro 

Rape,   for  salad.     See  small  sa-       cus,  autumnal 

lading  Sage,  common,  198,  454,  512 

Raspberries,  planting,  214,  327,  Saiading,  small,    11,    118,   183, 

517,552  312,367,399,423,452,471, 

priming,  131,  214,  518  513,  545,  566 

i    •    .  protecting  tender  kinds  of,  Salsify,  190,  315,  372,  401 

from  frost,  26,  552  to  preserve  for  winter  use. 

Recesses,  rural,  58  .      547 

Red  peppers,  200,  319,  372,  402,  Salvias,  tender,  355,  444 

429  Saponaria,  346 

Rhexias,  72,346,  417,  461  Sarracenias,  461 

Rhododendrons,  268,  329  Sassafras,  293 

Rhubarb,  the  Turkey  or  officinal,  Satin-flower,  or  Honesty,  291 

its  general  culture,  203,  317,  Savin,  283 

513,549  Savory,  winter,   198,  317,  374, 
English  or  common,   205,       402,  454,  512 

317,513,549  -summer,    199,    317,   374, 

Rocambole,  190,  315,  514,  545          402 

Rock  and  shell  .work,  64,  65         Saxatile  plants,  65 

Robinias,  142,  263  Saxifragas,  sowing  seed  of,  345 

Rocket,  garden,  double,  99,  151,  collecting,  461 

291,  292,  389,  416,  493  Saxifrage, double  white,  151,  292, 

particularly  noticed,  389  461 

night  smelling,  345  strawberry,  462 

Root-houses,  rural,  64  .  pyramidal,  462 

Root-pruning,  of  trees,  134  Scabious,  sweet,  291,  292,417 

Roses,  forcing  into  early  bloom,  Scilla  maritima,  534 

156,  172  peruviana,  534 

.<  to  pot  for  forcing,  536           Scorzonera,  190,  315,  372,  401 
'  propagating   by    suckers,. preserving  in  winter,  547 

142  Scotch  Kale.     See  Borecole 

• propagating   by   budding,  Scurvy-grass,  officinal,  198,514 

406,436  Sea-Kale,  191,316,513,549 
propagating  by  layers,  279,  Sedums,  83,  158,  394,  539 

405,  523  Seedling  trees  and  shrubs,  sum- 

• .  planting,  293,  294,    348,       mer  care  of,  330,  405 

537  , winter  care  of,  52,  555 

• used  for  hedges,  258  Sensitive  plant,    154,  290,388, 

China,  392,  419,  561,  562         438 

' Otaheite,   392,    419,  561,  a  particular  account  of,  438 

562  Shaddocks,  420,  443,  464,  539 

Rose-campion,  77,  151,  291,292,  Shady  walks,  63 

.417,  461,  493  Shallots,  190,  515,514,  545 

Rosemary,  198  Shell-work,  64 

Rue,  198,  454  Shifting  plants  out  of  smaller  into 

Rudbeckias,  345,  461  larger  pots  or  tubs,  best  me- 

Rural  seats,  58,  64  thod  of,  298,  353 

,Rustic  devices,  64  Silenes,  tender,  355" 


INDEX. 

Silk-worms,  272  standard  trees,  to  train,  49 

Silphiums,  345,  346,  461  Star  of  Bethlehem,  76,  286,437, 

Sisyrinchwms    for  edgings,  Sec.       534 

71,346,461  Statues,  58,  64 
Skirrets,  191,  316,  401,  513,549  Stock,  annual  or  mediterranean, 
-  to  preserve  for  winter  use,       344 

547  Stock-gillflowers,    77,    99,    155, 

Smallage,  199  291,  389,  417,  535,  559,  574 

Snail-plant,  291,  344  Stocks,  the  proper  kinds  to  bud 

Snapdragon,  291,  292,  344  and  graft  on,  242 

Sneezewort,  double,  345  Stools,   nursery,    of   trees    and 

Snowdrops,  71,75,586,408,460,       shrubs,  45,  279,  280 

494,  534  Stopping,  or  topping  young  cu- 

Snowdrop-tree,  268,  293  cumber  and  melon  plants,  1 13 

Soapwort,  double,  345,  417  Stoves  or  Hot-houses,  methods 

Solanums,  hardy  shrubby,  283         of  erecting,  84  to  96 

tender,  355  Strawberries,   forcing,    26,   98, 

Solidagoes,  72,  345,461                      131,  172,  303,  577 
Sorrel,  broad-leaved  garden,  320, spring  dressing  of,  215 

373,512                                *        —  choice  of  plants,  215,  477 
—   round -leaved   or   French,  the  various  kinds  of,  476 

320,  373,  512  times  and  method  of  plant- 

Sour-gum  or  Tupelo-tree,  264,      ing,  215,  478,  519 

283  making  nursery  plantations 

Southern  States,  seasons  and  cul-      of,  403 

ture  in,  particularly   noticed,  to  pot  for  forcing,  478 

15,  16,  37,  41,  52,    12$,    141,  autumn  dressing  of,  519 

150,  158,206,455,475,  514,  other  necessary,  care    of, 

'     521,522,524,551,554,568,        327,378 

569,  570,  571,  572  Strawberry -spinach,  344 

Southernwood,  198,  512  Strawberry-tree.     See  Arbutus 

Sowing  stones   and  kernerls  of      Unedo 

fruit.     See  Fruit  Suckers,  to  propagate  trees  and 
haws,   for   raisng    thorn-       shrubs  by,  142,  329,  537 

quicks,  144,  252,  524  Sumack,   to   propagate    various 

Spartiums,  tender,  355  kinds  of,  270 

Spulerwort,  virginian,  493  tanner's  271 

Spigelia  marilandica,  461  Sun,  its  effects  on  frozen  plants, 

.Spinach,  124,  181, 3>2,  369,428        153 

winter,  451,  469,  503,  544  Sunflower,  annual,  151,228,291, 

Spindle-tree,  140  344 

Spirxas,  hardy  herbaceous,  345     perennial,  151,  292 

Spirjca  trifoliata,  461  Sweet-briar,  258 

L-'iiipehduIa,  493  Sweet-gum,  252,  293 

Squash,  320,  361  Sweet-scented  Peas,  f5l,  291 

St.  Peter's-vvort,  293  Sweet-scented  shrub.     See  Ca- 

Stage   for  auriculas,   carnations,       lycanthus  floridus 

&cc.  337  Sweet-sultan,  344 

Staking  new  planted  trees,  best  Sweet-william,  77,99,  151,291, 

method  of,  22  5  416,  461,  493 

Standard,  half-standard,  &  dwarf-  Sycamore  262 


INDEX. 

Syringas,  142     ^  description  and  properties 

T                                 of  the  best,  335 
Table  of  the  progress  of  vegeta-  the  various  classes  of,  335 

tion  in  the  grape-vine,  &c.  480 to  take  up  and  preserve  the 

Tacumahaca,  283  roots,  384 

Tamarisk,  283  when  to  take  them  up,  407 

Tan,  covering  bulbs,  with,  73        to  propagate  by  seed,  460, 

—  procuring  fresh,   for  mak-       49 1 

ing  hot  pits  or  beds,  502 breeders,  what,  336 

Tansey,  11,  198,  512  , how  and  when  to  plant  the 

Tarragon,  1 1,  198,  511  -valuable  sorts,  528 

Teasel,  fuller's,  323  to  protect  them  in  winter, 

Temples,  rural  and  ornamental,       557 

5«,  64  Turfing-iron,  296 

Ten-week  stock,    155,  172,  291,  Tupelo-tree,  264,  283 

344  Turneps,  garden  culture  of.  190, 

Terraces,  59,  69  200,  315,  371,  401,  452,  471 

Teucriums,  355  general  field  culture  of,  424 

Thermometer,  its  use  in  garden-  to  preserve  in  winter,  547 

ing,  &c.  168  Swedish,  427 

Thickets,  in  rural  and  ornamen-  Turnep-cabbage,  309,  364,  397 

tal  planting,  63  Turnep-rooted  cabbage,  309,  364 

Thorn-quicks.     See  Quicks  V 

Thorn,   double    flowering,     156  Valerian,  Greek,   151,  291,  292, 

293  417,493 

Thrift,  71,  151,  292,  493  red  garden,  345 

Thyme,  198,  374,  402,  454,512  creeping  Greek,  493 

Tiger-flower,  465  Vallisneria  americana,  497 

Tomatoes,  2uO,   319,  372,  401,  Venus's  fly-trap,  440 

429  looking-glass,  151,  191,  344 

Trellises,  for  fruit-trees,  to  erect,  navelwort,  151,  291,  344- 

16,17  Veratrums,  461 

Trenching  and  manuring,  1,  54,  Verbascums,  345 

106,  459,  514,  551,  556  Veronicas,  345,  461 

Tricolors.  See  Amaranthus  tri-  Viburnum  prunifolium,  259 

color  Vinca  rosea,  388,  449 

Trilliums,  345,  461  Vines,  grape,  their  history,  226 

Tritonias,  159,499  descriptions  and  classifica- 

Trumpet-flower  283,  405  tion  of  the   various   kinds   of, 

Tuberoses,  forcing,  349  229 

open-ground    culture    of, American  species  of,  234 

349,  388  , time  and  methods  of  prun- 

taking  up  the  roots,  8cc.  560      ing,  139,  554 

Tulip-tree,   (called  Poplar)  261,  time  of  planting,  236,  521, 

554 
Tulips,  common  care  of  &c.  71,  _  methods  of  planting  and  pro- 

73,  74,    153,    156,  286,   334,       pagating,  236  to  241 

556»  573  —  to   protect   the   fruit  from 
method  of  supporting  the       birds,  insects,  &c.  480 

flowers,  334 

4  s 


INDEX. 

'         winter  dressing  of,  554         Wall-trees,  the  general  meaning 

to  make  wine  of  the  fruit,       of,  104 

481,  to  488  to  train  when  young,   48, 

.  ,,     •  to  preserve  the  fruit  of,  for       206,  208 

winter  use,  488  to  prune.     See  pruning 

. — —to  cure  the  fruit  for  Raisins, to  summer  prune,  430 

488  Walnut-tree,   the  English,    38, 

Vineries,  for  forcing  grapes,  37       226,  263,  293,  524 

Vineyards,  to  manure,  41,  138      Wasps  to  destroy,  430,  480 

to  make  poles  for  the  vines,  Water-falls,  6 1 

41  Water-pieces,  or  sheets,  6i 

soil  and  situation  fit  for,  235  Watsonias,  159,  420,  499 

preparation  of  the  soil,  236  Weld,  or  DyerVweed,  324 

.1         preparations  for,  and  me-  Wilderness,  58 

thods  of  planting,  236  to  241     Willow,  weeping  or  drooping,  61 

—  time  of  planting,  236,  521,  — hedges,  258 

554  various  kinds  of,  to  propa- 

time  and  methods  of  prun-       gate,  283,  522 

ing,  139  554  Wine,  the   method  of  making 

i.          work    to  be   done   in  for       white,  481 

January,  41,    February,    138,  making  red,  483 

March,  226,  April,  328,  May, general   remarks    on   the 

379,   June,    404,    July,    431,       making  of,  485 

August,  457,  September,  479, how  to  clarify,  485 

October,  5 21,  November,  554,  Winter-cress,  455,  471,  544 
December,  171  Witch-hazel,  293 

Violets,  151,  292,  461  Worms  in  fruit-trees,  to  destroy 

Virgin's-bower,  283, 405  1 34,  220 

W  Wormwood,  198 

Walchendorfias,  159,499  X 

Walks,  shady,  63  Xeranthemum,  hardy  annual,  344 

. grass,  to  make,  296,  352     tender  sorts  of,  355,  444 

•  gravel,  to  make  350  Y 

Wall-flowers,   double,  77,    155,  Yew-tree,  140,  258,  283,  329 
389,  535,  559,  574  Yuccas, tender,  355 

sowing  seed  of  29 1  Z 

transplanting  seedling,  417  Zinnia,  344 


FINIS. 


14  DAY  USE 

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